Product Forecast

Accessories & Footwear

Materials Forecast A/W
23/24: Leather & Non-
Leather
Regenerative and circular strategies will drive materials
forward, along with comfortable textures, functional
products and futuristic surfaces

Lucila Saldana
01.24.22 · 9 minutes

Anya Hindmarch x Dirt

Introduction
In 2024 the fashion industry will move towards regenerative, circular strategies and
carbon-neutral design, driven by climate change awareness.
A deeper understanding of ecology will lead brands to take on a long-term product
and material strategy that works together with nature rather than taking resources
from it, or simply not harming the environment. Reflected in the growth of
regenerative farming and innovative materials, brands will set out to make products
that actively improve ecosystems, soil the earth and protect biodiversity.
Waste continues to be re-evaluated as a valuable commodity, as both industry
makers and consumers gain awareness of the quantities of products that end up
in landfill.
Recycled and plant-based materials emerge with the objective of reducing the use of
virgin and petroleum-based materials. They will continue to gain pace as
technological advances allow for scalability.
A minimal and more circular design approach sees the subtraction of unnecessary
components, finishes and processes to facilitate recyclability and
biodegradation, alongside innovative return-back programs for a # circulareconomy.
Inspired by interest in the metaverse and space commerce, digital and real materials
are integrated into design processes.

CamperLab

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 Regenerative leather
The concep t: sustainability is the biggest
influence on this material, as consumers
prioritise products that embrace a more
responsible ethos. In line with our A/W 23/24
Material & Finish Forecast, focus on leathers
to scrutinise carbon footprints and challenge
suppliers to build a net-zero future.
Sur face and mater ials : explore the benefits
and investment needed for the transition to
regenerative farming as part of a long-term
Mulberry Olivenleder Santori
sustainability strategy. Key for circularity,
prioritise leathers that are biodegradable,
referencing German label Olivenlederʼs
leather tanned with olive leaf extract. Look to
heavy metal-free vegetable tanning, such
as Naturella.
How to imp lement: explore regenerative
farming, referencing the Return to Nature
initiative by Anya Hindmarch x Dirt that uses a
leather that biodegrades and can become soil.
Relevant for: footwear, sneakers, bags, belts,
so and small accessories

Timberland Deepmello Leather Anya Hindmarch x Dirt

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 Plant-based revisited
The concep t: driven by a renewed and
more sustainable mindset, plant-based
materials will continue to gain relevance as
technological advances allow for better
scalability. # Biomaterials consolidate as a
more responsible alternative to virgin
synthetics.
Sur face and mater ials : as waste is a valuable
resource, explore materials made from food
industry surplus, noted at US brand Allégorieʼs
Bon Lee Desserto Maisie Williams x Coperni
small accessories made from mango.
Apple and mushroom-based materials are
gaining visibility.
Innovation: look at UK-based designer Jana-
Aiméeʼs SeeTang biodegradable bags, which
are made from bioplastics dyed with saffron.
How to imp lement: replace PU and
PVC synthetics with # plantbased materials for
a more environmentally friendly, animal-free
product.
Relevant for: footwear, sneakers, bags, belts,
so and small accessories
Leap Jana-Aimée Allégorie

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 Brushed leather
The concep t: the mindset of creating ʻbetter
rather than moreʼ will continue to be
key. Prioritise classic materials that offer
longevity and transseasonality.
Colour: focus on seasonless brown tones and
embrace a long-term colour strategy that
works well in core products and materials.
Update investment pieces with key
colour # gingerbiscuit.

Justine Clenquet Marni Labucq How to imp lement: timeless styles will drive
value, so use brushed leather for minimal,
refined and lasting products. For footwear, opt
for PFC-free and water-based waterproof
coatings to boost more sustainable
functionality. Circularity is key for investment
products; provide a return back programme
and capitalise on the opportunity to give new
life to product by re-dyeing or adding an extra
wax.
Relevant for: footwear, bags, belts, so and
small accessories

Conceria di Urgnano Rokh Dazed

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 Future volume
The concep t: future volume evolves A/W
22/23ʼs so space with a futuristic space-
inspired look via extreme padding.
Sur face and mater ials : sustainability is key
for products that inspire wellness. Opt for
responsibly sourced leather or plant-based
materials and pair these with eco-friendly
fillings, such as PrimaLo , or take inspiration
from Japanese sports brand Goldwinʼs
collab with KAWADA Feather utilising
Givenchy Camilla & Marc Bottega Veneta
repurposed post-consumer waste.
Innovation: refer to Chinese 3D digital
designer Uv Zhu for # so volume soles.
How to imp lement: use for winter collections
in which padding takes a futuristic approach for
extreme weather protection, or sit back
with # skilodge styling. For a commercial
application, focus on tubular constructions.
Relevant for: footwear, sneakers, bags, belts,
jewellery, so and hair accessories

Harper's Bazaar Uv Zhu Miu Miu

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 Hyper-texture
The concep t: hyper-texture evolves A/W
22/23ʼs curly shearling with comfort and
cosiness that gains refinement, as the
spaces where we relax and work blend. Use
# hypertexture to take a more formal, fashion-
led and protective approach for winter and
# homehub ranges.
Sur face and mater ials : opt for faux-fur made
from post-consumer-waste recycled PET. Use
responsibly sourced shearlings that are food
Bimba y Lola The Arrivals Entire Studios
industry byproducts for long-lasting styles.
How to imp lement: use this material in the
uptrending # indooroutdoorboot and for so
accessories categories, as it will work well for
both # twomilewear and # skilodge-inspired
collections. Take inspiration from New
Zealand-based Entire Studiosʼ accessories and
footwear offering, as they marry perfectly
these two key stories.
Relevant for: footwear, sneakers, bags, belts,
jewellery, so and hair accessories

Proenza Schouler Gallerist M.I.U.

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 Intergalactic metallics
The concep t: in line with ourMaterial & Finish
Forecast, core metallics evolve with colours,
textures and finishes inspired by otherworldly
terrain. Materials that blend digital and IRL
looks will gain relevance, influenced by space
exploration and virtual worlds.
Colour: # Silver remains a key metallic and
conveys the futuristic aspect of this story, as
seen in directional projects by French
jewellery designer Juliette Laloe, who creates
Skua Studio San Marco Leathers PAP Magazine
sculptural objects. Metallic gold and copper
are also key, while Astro Dust is a must-have
seasonal tone.
How to imp lement: use responsibly sourced
leathers with water-based metallic finishes, or
opt for a lower-impact PU such as Leathertex.
Relevant for: footwear, sneakers, bags, belts,
jewellery, hair, so and small accessories

Juliette Laloe Marici London Paola Vilas

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 Knitted collage
The concep t: aligned with the reworked
remnant story, materials and techniques that
offer # joyfulexpression in a more sustainable
way will come to the fore. A desire for mood-
boosting design meets tactile, cosy and
colourful surfaces in products influenced by
growing interest in circular practices.
Sur face and mater ials : your production
surplus will become a valuable source as
consumers become aware of the problem of
Jose ne Dyring 10 Magazine Elizations
waste ending up in landfill. Repurpose unused
materials and create unexpected combinations,
as seen in so accessories made from
reclaimed yarns by Thai label Nong Rak.
How to imp lement: use deadstock knits and
yarns from previous inventory and samples.
Embrace exuberant textures.
Relevant for: bags, belts, slippers, so and
hair accessories

@jose ne_dyring_knit Sulk Nong Rak

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 Local tapestry
The concep t: mirroring our Home-proud trims
story, materials are influenced by interiors and
the consumer demand for comforting and
handmade textures. Local references are key
so be careful not to appropriate, but rather co-
create with smaller, community based groups.
Pr int and patter n: research around prints
and motifs, checking on their significance to
avoid cultural appropriation. Collab with
local artisans to promote heritage and create
Pardo Hats Terri Friedman Padmore Barnes x @kingkennedyrugs
responsible products through authentic
storytelling. Refer to Argentina-based
Santestebanʼs handmade Chaguar knits from
the Wichi community.
How to imp lement: focus on traditional
tapestry and decorative textures and go
# beyondfashion. Use deadstock for a more
sustainable approach, as seen in a
collab between Irish company Padmore
Barnes and King Kennedy rugs.
Relevant for: footwear, bags, belts, so
accessories

Aquazzura Santesteban @yuthanan__

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 Liquid surfaces
The concep t: with a growing focus on the
# metaverse, materials and finishes that stand
out on screen will continue to be an
increasingly important consideration when
designing. Liquid finishes evolve S/S 23ʼs high-
shine surfaces story in a more futuristic way,
while maintaining the transseasonal and
longevity aspect for a long-term product
strategy.
App lication and technique: use traceable
Yuul Yie Bottega Veneta Maia Lappas
leathers with a cellulosic patent finishing, or
work with tanneries to incorporate a plastic-
free laminate to create a more environmentally
friendly option. Go for # plantbased materials
or use recycled PET PU, as seen at Italian
label Coronet.
How to imp lement: design in a reductive
mindset focusing on minimal and long-
lasting investment styles. Capitalise on the
durability of such finishes to promote this
thinking.
Relevant for: footwear, sneakers, bags, belts,
so and small accessories
Martini Pio By Far Nicole Saldaña

10
 Soft nubuck
The concep t: prompted by a sustainable
mindset and the desire for long-lasting items,
consumers will have a renewed appreciation of
classic materials and time-worn finishes,
alongside the need for cosy and tactile
surfaces.
Sur face and mater ials : ethical sourcing is a
priority, so choose responsible and traceable
leathers tanned with reduced water usage, as
seen at Prime Asia. For a similar finish, use
Prime Asia @margesherwood_of cial Clarks x Beams Boy
recycled leather for value products that do not
compromise on sustainability, as seen at
French supplier Recyc Leather.
How to imp lement: enhance function and
longevity with waterproof and dirt-repellent
treatments, as seen in the Gore-tex Wallabees
collab between British manufacturer Clarks
and Japanese label Beams Boy. Japanese brand
Hatroidʼs windproof synthetic gloves also
inspire.
Relevant for: footwear, sneakers, accessories

Tod's x Hender Scheme @hatroid Sukima

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Action points
Embrace regenerative materials
As the fashion industry moves towards a
greener future, the focus is
on protecting the environment
and neutralising CO2 emissions.
Regenerative farming will gain traction
for material sourcing in both
leathers and bast fibres. Investment
and effort from the whole supply chain
will be needed for long-term
sustainable strategy.
Challenge suppliers to develop
innovative materials that help offset
the carbon footprint of products
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Focus on functionality and
comfort
As weather patterns change erratically,
consumers will value multifunctional
and protective styles. Opt for materials
that offer these qualities for both
everyday activities and extreme
weather. The # twomilewear trend
will continue to be a key theme for
footwear and accessories, so
provide cosy and padded materials that
still offer protection
Keep digital design in mind
With space travel a consideration and as
digital and physical realities continue to
blur, develop futuristic materials that
take elements from both worlds. The
# metaverse will begin to influence
IRL materials, responding to The
Everything Net, where the influence of
the virtual world speeds up the demand
for designs with digital appeal
Respond to the need for
longevity and circularity
As the industry steps up to reduce
environmental impact, adopt a reductive
and circular design approach for the
entire product cycle. Design with
longevity in mind, source certified and
durable materials, include material info
in product descriptions and offer a
return-back programme to create a
# circulareconomy. Evolve textures and
techniques to find options for pre- or
post-consumer waste
WGSN’s forecast reports are created by our global team of experts
Mater ials forecas ting team
Helen Palmer, Head of Materials and Textiles
Gemma Riberti, Head of Interiors
Jenny Clark, Head of Colour
Reiko Morrison, Head of CMF, Consumer Tech
Olivia Barnes, Strategist, Materials and Knit
Charlotte Casey, Senior Strategist, Knit
Jane Collins, Senior Strategist, Footwear and Accessories
Lucila Saldana, Strategist, Footwear and Accessories
Charlotte Browning, Strategist, Active
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Contr ibutors
APAC
Sun Xueying, Editor, WGSN China
Alison Ho, Consumer Researcher
Aus tralia
Yianni Giovanoglou, Client Services Specialist
Amer icas
Ana Correa, Strategist, Accessories & Footwear, LATAM
Sofia Martellini, Strategist, Youth and Womenswear, LATAM
Europ e
Ana Cano, Associate Data Analyst, Spain
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