DIY Solar Bottle Lamp

instructables
DIY Solar Bottle Lamp V1.0
by opengreenenergy
Solar Bottle Lamp is a solar-powered light that is constructed from waste plastic bottles. The design idea is to reuse waste
plastic bottles by attaching a 3D printed solar lamp in place of their old plastic cap. It can be tted into almost all soft
drink bottles.
Recycling obviously helps make plastics more sustainable but sometimes, recycling can be less carbon-friendly than we
would like for it to be so instead of recycling, why don’t we try upcycling! Upcycling is the process of reusing items in a
way they were not necessarily intended for that gives them a new life rather than going into the trash or being sent o to
be recycled.
Support me On Patreon:
If you enjoy my work here on Instructables, consider joining my Patreon, it will be a great help for me to make more interesting
projects in the future.
Patreon Link:https://www.patreon.com/opengreenenergy
Solar Bottle Lamp can be used to provide lighting in rural areas. These lights are surprisingly bright, illuminating your
campsite, backyard, pathways, or even your home in the case of a power outage.
It is ideal for camping trips, especially when backpack space is tight. Just think, armed with this eco-friendly device you
can enjoy a good glug, go wandering after dark and illuminate your tent without messing around with a separate light.
I have designed this lamp by inspired from Moser bottle which was invented by Brazilian mechanic Alfredo Moser. The
concept is that clear plastic beverage bottles lled with water and bleach can be xed into the roof of an unlit building to
refract sunlight around a room.
In 2011, Illac Diaz used Moser’s technology to start the Liter Of Light ( MyShelter Foundation), which used a grassroots
model to provide lighting on a large scale. The program uses partners around the world to keep costs down, using
recycled plastic bottles and locally sourced materials. The program also promotes local entrepreneurs, by providing
nancial incentives to locals who assemble and install the lights.
The Moser bottle lamp is simple and inexpensive but has a limitation. It only works during the daytime. So I have
designed a solar bottle cap that can provide light during the night. By combining the Moser Bottle concept and my Solar
Bottle Cap, a powerful lamp can be made.
Bene ts:
1. Reusing plastic bottles can signi cantly reduce pollution, greenhouse gas emissions, and energy usage.
2. The use of the solar lamp will decrease the amount of local air pollution and saves energy.
3. It can provide access to solar lamps at an a ordable price to a wide range of people living in remote
villages that are deprived of clean energy access.
4. It also came out as an alternative business model with the potential to strengthen the overall rural
economy by generating technology-based livelihood opportunities.
Supplies:
DIY Solar Bottle Lamp V1.0: Page 1
1. Charger IC - LP4060B5F ( Aliexpress / LCSC )
2. Battery Protection IC - AP6685 ( LCSC )
3. Transistor - MMBT3904 ( Amazon / Aliexpress )
4. MOSFET - AO3400A ( Amazon / Aliexpress )
5. StrawHat LED - 0.5W ( Amazon / Aliexpress )
6. 1/8W Resistors - 1K, 10K ( Amazon / Banggood / Aliexpress )
7. 1/4W Resistor - 5R,22R ( Amazon / Banggood / Aliexpress )
8. Capacitors - 100nF, 1uF, 10uF ( Amazon / Aliexpress )
9. Flashlight Button Switch ( Aliexpress )
10. Schottky Diode -1N5819 ( Amazon / Aliexpress )
11. Solar panel - 60 x 60 mm/ 5.5V ( Tindie )
12. 14500 Li-Ion Battery ( Aliexpress)
13. Battery Spring plates ( Amazon / Aliexpress )
14. 24 AWG Wires ( Amazon / Aliexpress )
15. JST Connectors ( Amazon / Aliexpress )
16 SMD LED 0805 ( Amazon / Aliexpress )
17.Assembled PCB ( PCBWay )
Tools Used:
3D printer ( Amazon / Aliexpress)
Wire Stripper ( Amazon / Aliexpress )
Hot Glue Gun ( Amazon / Aliexpress )
Mini Hot Plate ( Amazon / Banggood / Aliexpress )
Heat Insulation Magnetic Silicone Mat ( Amazon / Banggood )

https://youtu.be/ikp14uKxyYQ
Step 1: Working of Moser Bottle
It works by the refraction of light rays because of di erent mediums, air, and water. By refracting light from the sun, it
produces light 360 degrees around the room with an equivalent light power of 55 watts bulb. It will last for 5 years
without maintenance and before the water has to be changed. The chlorine prevents the growth of microorganisms and
maintains the clarity of the water.
If you want to know more about it, you may go through a nice research Journal. It is attached below.
Image credit: - believe.earth
Download
https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/F25/2X48/L0DUYRTD/F252X48L0DUYRTD.pdf
Step 2: How the Solar Lamp Works
The solar panel receives sunlight from the sun and converts it into electrical energy. The controller board charges the
battery during the daytime and drives the LED during the nighttime.
The solar lamp can be considered as a standalone Solar Photo Voltaic (SPV) system and contains four basic components:
1. Solar Panel: Convert Solar Energy to Electrical Energy
2. Controller: Charge the Battery ( Charger ) and drive the Load ( Driver )
3. Battery: Store the Electrical Energy
4. Load (LED): Provide the desired light output

Step 3: How the Circuit Works?
The entire circuit is broadly dived into 3 parts:

1. Charger Circuit
2. Battery Protection Circuit
3. LED Driver Circuit
The power generated by the Solar Panel is extracted by the charger circuit and charges the battery. The protection circuit
is responsible for providing various protections to the Li-Ion Battery. The LED driver circuit is responsible for driving the
LED.

Step 4: Charger Circuit
The charger circuit charges the battery by taking power generated from the solar panel. It is based on a lithium-ion
battery charger IC LP4060. It is a complete constant-current/constant-voltage linear charger for a single-cell lithium-ion
battery. It uses only a few external components like resistors and capacitors. The circuit is based on the application circuit
given in the datasheet. The datasheet is attached below.

Download
https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/FK1/BJL4/L0DUXSJW/FK1BJL4L0DUXSJW.pdf
Step 5: Battery Protection Circuit
The Battery Protection Circuit provides various protections to the Li-Ion battery. The circuit is based on IC - AP6685 which
contains internal power MOSFET, high-accuracy voltage detection circuits, and delay circuits. The IC has the following
protections inbuilt:
1. Reverse polarity protection
2. Over Charge Protection
3. Over-Discharge Protection
4. Load short circuit protection
The circuit diagram is derived from the datasheet. The datasheet is attached below.

Download
https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/F36/M5YM/L0DUXSHU/F36M5YML0DUXSHU.pdf
Step 6: LED Driver Circuit
The LED driver drives the LED as well as controls the brightness. It also provides automatic turning ON during the night.
The circuit works as follows
During the day, the solar cell has voltage to D1-diode to bias transistor Q2 it conducting collector and Emitter closed, so
it does not have the voltage to the gate of MOSFET Q1. It is OFF so the LED will go out. At the same time, the current from
the solar panel will charge the battery.
When there is no sunlight, no solar current to base Q2, So it will not conduct but at the same time, MOSFET Q1 will
conduct. Now the battery’s current will ow to LED through the resistors ( R3 or R4 ).
The button switch is used to connect either R3 or R4 in the LED circuit. When the pole is connected to R3, the brightness
is Low ( High Resistance, Low LED Current ) and when connected to R4, the brightness is High ( Low Resistance, High LED
Current )

Step 7: PCB Design
I have drawn the schematic by using Fusion 360 Electronics Design after that switched to PCB layout. I have placed all the
SMD parts on the top side of the PCB and the button on the bottom side of the PCB. The main reason for placing the
button switch on the bottom side is that it will be easier to access from outside of the enclosure. It also reduces the PCB
board size.
I have ordered my PCB from PCBWay and received it within 7 days.
Download the Gerber les from PCBWay

Step 8: New PCB and STEM Education
I have designed a custom PCB for the school children to promote STEM education. The PCB uses all through-hole
components and every popular charging module TP4056. Now it is very easy to assemble the PCB for those who are not
comfortable with soldering SMD components.
I have written new Instructables for it. You may check the Solar Bottle Lamp V2.0

https://youtu.be/Pw82EV2Pm_s
Step 9: PCB Assembly
It's very important to rst clean the PCB with some isopropyl alcohol. Then apply solder paste on the pads by using a
solder paste syringe. Place parts with tweezers making sure that LEDs, chips, etc. are properly aligned. I like having a
second board with no paste on it to see the alignment dots.
Now you have many options to cook the PCB like hot air soldering gun, Hot plate, re ow oven etc. I have used my
Miniware MH30 hot plate to solder the PCB. Set the temperature according to your solder paste melting point and place
the PCB on the hot plate.
It is important to look at the re ow pro les of all your components, to see how long you can heat your components for,
and at what temperature. I usually just "wing it", and heat them at about 250C, for about a minute. You will see the solder
melting, and the components being soldered into their respective places. Now you can turn o the hot plate and let it
cool down completely.

Once you have completed the soldering process it is important to remove the ux from PCB. Spray a small quantity of IPA
(Isopropyl alcohol) Solution and clean it with the cotton.
Now the PCB boards are ready to use.
If you are not interested to assemble the PCB on your own, you may order the fully assembled PCB from the PCBWay
store.

Step 10: 3D Printed Enclosure Design
The enclosure for the solar lamp is designed in Autodesk Fusion 360. I have designed many iterations to get this design.
The enclosure has 5 parts:
1. Main Body
2. Top Cover
3. LED Holder
4. Di user
5. Button
The Main Body is basically designed to t all the components including the battery. The top cover is to cover up the main
body and mount the solar panel on it. The LED holder is used to hold the LED and the di user is used to di use the LED
light in all directions. The button is used to operate the switch on the PCB from outside.
Download the .STL les from Thingiverse.
Step 11: 3D Printing
I have used my Creality CR-10 Mini printer and 1.75 mm PTEG laments to print the parts. I have printed in 3 di erent
colors yellow, Orange and Cyan. The di user is printed in the transparent lament. You need support structure for
printing the main body and top cover.
My settings are:
1. Print Speed: 60 mm/s
2. Layer Height: 0.2mm
3. Fill Density: 25%
4. Extruder Temperature: 235 deg C
5. Bed Temp: 75 deg C

Step 12: Remove the Support From the 3D Printed Parts
Both the top and bottom parts are printed with support structure, so we have to remove them before nal use.
Removing support from the main bodies is quite easy, just squeeze them with ngers, they will be easily separated from
the main body.
Removing the support from the cap threaded area may need a screwdriver or any sharp object. After removing the
support, you have to smooth out the cap threaded area. You can easily do it by twisting and untwisting few times with a
soft drinks bottle.

Step 13: Mount the Solar Panel
You have to use a solar panel that can be tted to the enclosure. The slot is made for mounting a 55x55mm solar panel.
The solar panel that I have used here is rated for 6V and 50mA.
Insert the terminal wires from the solar panel into the slot in the top cover and solder them to the PCB ( SOL+ and SOL-).
Mount the solar panel on the top cover by using epoxy glue.
Seal the panel from inside also, so that water will not enter into the enclosure.

Step 14: Install the Battery Terminals
Solder 24AWG wires to the battery terminals. I always prefer to use red wire for the positive terminal and black wire for
the negative terminal. The spring shape contact is the negative terminal. Solder the terminal wires to the PCB ( BAT+ and
BAT- )
Then install the terminal plates into the battery slots as shown in the above picture.

Step 15: Mount the LED
I have used an 8mm 0.5W straw hat LED. Solder 24AWG red wire to the positive terminal and black wire to the negative
terminal of the LED.
Mount the LED into the holder and then install it into the main enclosure as shown in the above picture. The notch shall
be aligned properly.
Now seal the led from all sides by using epoxy glue. Then install the di user, you can apply epoxy glue to the joint.

Step 16: Install the Button Cap
Insert the Switch button cap into the slot given in the main body. You have to align the notches perfectly.

Step 17: Install the PCB
Align the PCB mounting holes with the mounting studs in the enclosure. Then secure it with two M3 screws.
Now solder the terminal wires from LED, Battery, and Solar panels. The polarity is marked on the PCB.

Step 18: Assemble the Enclsure
After installing all the parts, close the top cover by aligning the mounting studs. For a better joint, a snap and t
arrangement is also provided in the top cover. Now use M3 screws to tighten both the parts together. You may apply
epoxy glue at the joints to make it weatherproof.
Now the lamp is ready for use.

Step 19: Prepare the Bottle
The solar lamp is compatible with any soft drinks bottle cap. Take an empty soft drinks bottle and clean it thoroughly.
Fill the bottle with water and add a few drops of chlorine to avoid algae formation.
Close the bottle with Solar Bottle Lamp and your lamp is ready.

Step 20: Finishing
Before rst use, charge the battery by placing the bottle lamps in bright sunlight for at least a day. Then turn on the
button switch to set the desired brightness ( Low / High ). Place the bottle lamp at the desired location like a garden or
pathways. The lamp will be automatically switched on when the sun goes down.
If you want to use this lamp for lighting the room, you can follow this Instructables to mount it on the roof.

I believe there is a mistake in your circuit which prevents the battery protection circuit from
working. The grounds on the charger circuit and the ground to both VM pins should be connected
and separate from the grounds in the rest of the circuit. The battery protection circuit can then
disconnect the ground of the charger circuit once the battery is charged and also when the
battery becomes discharged. I didn't check the pcb design, but it certainly looks wrong on the
circuit.
Let me check it, if there is a mistake. I will correct it.
Thank you for the feedback.
I'm building this now. What was your result of testing the "standard" tp4056 board with input - and
output - shorted? Did the circuit shown just upthread with the 4056 work as expected?
Indeed the VM pins on the protection chip should be connected to the charger GND which needs
to be disconnected from the battery GND, and no over over-discharge protection is provided for a
solar charged application, as this chip is intended to be used for short high current bursts
connected to a low current constant source such as a camera flash which uses regular batteries
to provide a reliable power source.
Nice try and a good use of a small part of the massive oversupply of plastic bottles, but small
battery management circuit boards are easily available, such as the TP4056 board which can be
obtained from amazon or aliexpress among other places.
P.S. You need the right variety with connections for Input +/- Battery +/- and Output +/- (not hard
as these are the most commonly available).
Thank you for the feedback. I have drawn a schematic by using the TP4056 module with a
protection board. Please check if any mistake in the schematic.
Looks fine to me, but I would check to see if input- is connected to output- (it is on the most
common board).
Sorry for the inconvenience, but it appears you fell into the same trap as many others, that of
believing the sales talk usually found in datasheets.
I have tested a tp4056 module with my multimeter. The input - and output- are shorted.
Can you include the diode and resistor values for the new PCB? Or maybe I have missed them
somewhere?
This is a very good overview of how to make this project. Every step is explained very clearly and
there are enough pictures to have a good view of the project.
Very unique idea and looks very cool!
From the circuit diagrams it appears your battery protection IC is doing nothing. It does it's work
by switching the current on the Negative (a.k.a. Ground, in this case) power rail, and it seems as
if you have all the grounds connected together. The pictures of the board make it clear that the
battery negative and the solar cell negative are connected together, and it cannot work that way.
In order for it to work as intended, you'd have to isolate the solar cell and charger grounds, and
connect them ONLY to the protection IC's VM pins (and NOT it's ground pin). The Battery
negative and the rest of the circuit's ground connections go to the protection IC's ground pin. The
protection IC's MOSFETs switch the power by connecting/disconnecting the VM pins to it's
ground pin, feeding the negative rail to the rest of the circuit.
Can you please share a schematic diagram. Though I have corrected it in the Gerber file
available in PCBWay but still want to confirm.
Thank you for the valuable feedback.
Update on 07.04.2022:
The Solar Bottle Lamp kit is now available on PCBWay Store. In the kit, you will get the following
items:
1. Assembled PCB
2. Solar Panel
3. LED
Update on 05.04.2022:
New PCB with all through holes components and TP4056 charging module.
I have designed this version to make it simpler so that it can be assembled by anyone.
It can also be used for STEM education.

Can't you just make some and sell them to people who don't have a 3D printer?
You can make the 3D printed enclosure from PCBWay. Just upload the STL file and select the
material, resolution and colour.
https://www.pcbway.com/rapid-prototyping/manufacture/?reffercode=BA
Great project but the question is, can you not just use a TP4056 board instead of those parts? A
TP4056 board (with a DW01A IC onboard) should do everything those two components do while
being sold readymade on boards costing less than 0.25$.(make sure you get the one with
separate pads on the PCB for load and battery connection).
Besides that why not use a 18650 battery instead of 14500? They are far easier to find in a lot of
places compared to far rarer 14500 and also cost nearly the same or just a bit more while having
several times the capacity which makes it ideal for the whole "alternative and rural" idea
The current design is great if you have the skills or ability to go for PCB manufacturing or circuit
design and no doubt I absolutely love it but if we are talking about making it more accessible a
better solution would be using TP4056 IC with a 18650 cell (but obviously 14500 is still fine for
the current smaller design)
Also the LED choice is horrible for efficiency. I'd recommend using a 2835 SMD led like the ones
you see everywhere in lightbulbs and stuff (which adds the ability to salvage them too). The 2835
SMD LEDs generally have significantly higher efficiency of Lumens/Watt and also cost less very
often and you can just get them from even LED strips
I had the exact same thought. But every time I want to break out one of those TP4056 boards, I
read this and freak out: https://www.best-microcontroller-projects.com/tp40...
The batch I have are isolated between Load and Battery. Is that sufficient? Also, these
60mmx60mm 5V solar panels are only putting out about 50mA. Is that going to drive that TP4056
sufficiently?
Also, thanks for the tip on the LED... I'm going to build a few of these, after I re-engineer the 3d
printed parts to not need so much support.
Well atleast for this circuit design the ability of TP4056 to not be able to charge and also power a
load doesn't matter as the Solar cells here determine whether the power will be delivered to the
LED or not. When the cells are charging the circuit/LED stays off, when the cells stop charging
the LED turns on so not a risk factor.
Alternatively just to stay on the safe side you can either use protected batteries or for cheap just
use a cheap 1s BMS/battery protection directly to the battery Besides the TP4056 used for
charging which should protect the battery further.
Just wanted to check your comment...are the specs on the 2835 SMD LED only 25 lumens? I
think the LED they are recommending seems to put out 66.14? Not sure if that is why they
choose it...
Firstly your comparisons are wrong as the numbers are not realistic numbers. And I feel like you
are missing out the point of efficiency and lumens per watt.
But just to compare two examples with prices from Digikey -
Cree J series LED = 0.043$/piece for orders over 10 pcs. Has 170 Lumens per Watt average. Or
80 lumens at 150mA at 2.85V
Aka 0.42W with 82 lumens.
Compare that to a random 8mm LED which cost often more than the SMD LED in question -
According to your numbers it does 66 lumens at 3.6V @ 150mA
which means, 0.54W with 66 lumens
which equals to 120 ish lumens per watt.
Which means the 2835 LED is 40% more efficient than the 8mm LED
so nearly double.
There's a TON of 2835 LEDs out there so you need to check the datasheets for yourself first.
Hope your doubts are clear.
Thank you for the suggestion. But how 2835 SMD led will be mounted in the enclosure?
You can just cut a piece from an LED strip and scratch the Solder mask on both sides and solder
two wires to it and connect to the power supply with a current limiting resistor and put it in the
place where the current LED sits and just put a bit of hot glue on the LED to seal it shut
Or you can directly integrate the SMD LED into the PCB design you have already made. Both are
pretty simple and will improve the runtimes of the design by atleast 20-30% from my calculations
Also instead of printing the whole body in one piece which generates lots of waste as supports
why not print it as two parts that can be either just screwed/glued or bolted together
Wow simply wow!
I have several solar lights sitting in my garage and now I know to how repurpose them in a better
format!
Well done!
Those cheap dollar store solar lights only work for a short time until the batteries (NiCd or NiMH)
die and people throw them out. I've repaired some with new batteries but I wonder if a
supercapacitor would be a better idea.
yes but it won't be cheap and it will be large a typical AA battery put in those solar lights has an
energy storage of 300-1000 mAh with a nominal 1.2v the cheapest supercaps* normally are 2.7v
so if your light only uses one AA battery then it make using supercaps less appealing, now with
two batters we have a nominal of 2.4v, however, the charger on board might push the voltage
higher than 2.7v which can damage the supercap. assuming the unit has two batteries and it
won't go above 2.7v volt then you would need at least 200-500F worth of supercaps and likely
around 1000F for all night. for example a 400F supercap has an energy storage of 405 mWh
dividing that by 2.7 we get about 150 mAh which might give you a few hours of light. a 400F
supercap is about the size of your fist. it is unlikely the charger will stay under 2.7v on a two
battery unit so it would be safer to use a one battery unit, however, it will reduce the amount of
energy storage you might get out of a 2.7v supercap.
*there are cheaper supercaps but they are more tricky, these are the lithium hybrid supercaps.
the good news is they are rated to 3.8v, however, unlike regular supercaps these hybrids have a
minimum of 2.5v

Agreed.... this is why I have several of them just sitting in my garage. I also stopped buying them
and am looking for ideas on how to repurpose them to maximize value and avoid adding to land
fills.
I wonder how super capacitors manage in temperature fluctuations since I live in Canada and it
doesn't get super cold in the winters (~ -5c average). Time to do more research... thanks for the
idea Vandamme!
Super capacitors are the way to go if you live in somewhere like Alberta or some cold hell with -
30C regular. But if you are only dealing with -5C then LiFePo4 batteries with a bit of insulation on
them might be a good deal as they can take those temps. Or you can consider Nickel Cadmium
too as they are cheap and also can survive very low temps. Anything significantly lower like -30
to -35C or below Supercaps are probably your best bet.
Avoid Lithium Ion and Lithium polymer

I'm in New York and at the end of March it was -12C this morning.
And *THIS* is why I love this site. Collaboration, constructive feedback and help. Thanks Techno
Crazy.
Thank you so much. Glad you like the idea.
Really nice work , btw how much did you pay for the Fusion 360 ,
Thanks for sharing this great Instructable. Although I have been promising myself to learn the
PCB level soldering, the challenge getting more difficult as the tiny surface mount components
are getting smaller and smaller. So, again I will happily buy the pre-canned ready to use PSBs if I
could. The link you are including for purchasing the soldered PCB just goes to a generic page on
that website and then even searching for the item with " Solar Bottle " returns a bunch of
unrelated promotions. Could you please relink the item?
The link is updated. Please check
Thank you. I will order a couple soldered for showing off while practicing my soldering skills to
show off even more.
Just a tip - Just limit yourself to 0805 SMD components and a knife or fine tip soldering iron tip.
0805 is large enough to solder by hand even for those who have not much soldering skills though
I prefer 0603 as it is still pretty large for soldering by hand.
But in case you just want to skip soldering, most PCB manufacturers like JLCPCB and so on offer
SMD soldering services so you can just choose the parts and all during the order and you'll get
pre soldered PCBs.
If you add glowing fluid it will go brighter
Very cool! Make sure you conformal coat the PCB, just in case of it sitting outside to prevent
corrosion on the wires and the solder joints and to protect the electronics
On 2nd revision, add a quick charger micro USB to it as well to allow for charging if the sunlight
isn't up enough
Thank you for your valuable suggestion.
Great Instructable!
Could you post the 3D-files for the Bottle Lamp? The link in the text points to a different design.
Thanks!
Glad you like my Instructable.
Thank you for reporting the mistake. Now I have corrected the link.

You can download it from the following link
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5330215
Thank you!
thank you for a well-written and clear instructable. As a 70-year-old dabbler in all things crafty, I
appreciate instructions my brain can follow! I only wish I had the workspace, equipment, and
supplies to make this ... You have me thinking about recycling/improving some path lights now.
First will be the one over the pond for mosquito control!
Great, but the stl files on thingiverse are totally different.
Thank you. Now it is corrected.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5330215
How about using a UV led and a flourescing fluid? Great project.
Or simple food coloring added to the water for colored light effect?
I have not tried but I think it will work.

Thank You
I love the idea, but isn't the amount of PETG support that you've generating and throwing away
about equal to the amount of plastic in the bottle that's being upcycled?
Thank you.
Usually, the soft drinks bottle or water bottles are intended to use once. But using this solar lamp
the bottle can be used for years instead of throwing it garbage.

DIY Solar Bottle Lamp

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instructables

DIY Solar Bottle Lamp V1.0

DIY Solar Bottle Lamp V1.0: Page 2

Step 1: Working of Moser Bottle

Step 2: How the Solar Lamp Works

DIY Solar Bottle Lamp V1.0: Page 8

The entire circuit is broadly dived into 3 parts:

DIY Solar Bottle Lamp V1.0: Page 9

DIY Solar Bottle Lamp V1.0: Page 10

Step 5: Battery Protection Circuit

DIY Solar Bottle Lamp V1.0: Page 11

Step 6: LED Driver Circuit

DIY Solar Bottle Lamp V1.0: Page 12

DIY Solar Bottle Lamp V1.0: Page 13

DIY Solar Bottle Lamp V1.0: Page 16

Step 9: PCB Assembly

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Hope your doubts are clear.

DIY Solar Bottle Lamp V1.0: Page 79

Avoid Lithium Ion and Lithium polymer

DIY Solar Bottle Lamp V1.0: Page 80

Thank you. Now it is corrected.

I have not tried but I think it will work.

DIY Solar Bottle Lamp V1.0: Page 81

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