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Food Security

https://doi.org/10.1007/s12571-019-00901-6

ORIGINAL PAPER

More than just corn and calories: a comprehensive assessment


of the yield and nutritional content of a traditional Lacandon Maya
milpa
Tomasz B. Falkowski 1 & Adolfo Chankin 2 & Stewart A. W. Diemont 3 & Robert W. Pedian 3

Received: 30 May 2018 / Accepted: 12 February 2019


# International Society for Plant Pathology and Springer Nature B.V. 2019

Abstract
The traditional ecological knowledge (TEK) of Lacandon Maya is expressed in their swidden (i.e., slash-and-burn),
sequential agroforestry system. Successional pathways are initiated through controlled burns of secondary forest and
by cultivating milpa: a swidden polyculture agroecosystem dominated by maize (corn; Zea mays). While past
research demonstrated that traditional Maya milpas yield large quantities of corn that can meet caloric requirements
for Lacandon communities, no studies have comprehensively quantified the yields of other crops cultivated in
Lacandon milpas or assessed whether they can meet other nutritional requirements for local people. Using a case
study approach, this research measured the agricultural yields and nutritional content of all foods (including crops
and wild game) harvested from a traditional Lacandon milpa. Following traditional Lacandon agroforestry manage-
ment practices, we performed a controlled burn of secondary forest and planted crops and trees in an experimental
milpa in Lacanja Chansayab, Chiapas, Mexico. Over 3 years, we harvested, weighed, and calculated the nutritional
content of all foodstuffs obtained from the milpa. Assuming an average family size of 5.3 individuals, yields from
an average-sized milpa can meet most United States Food and Drug Administration daily value nutritional require-
ments per capita, including calories, fat, carbohydrates, fiber, sugar, protein, vitamins A and C, calcium, iron, zinc,
and niacin. Diets derived exclusively from milpa may be deficient in saturated fat, cholesterol, sodium, calcium, and
iodine, and harvests vary intra- and inter-annually. Lacandon farmers can supplement these harvests by foraging in
their managed forest. These results underscore the potential of Lacandon agroforestry management to provide rural
smallholder farmers in the Lacandon rainforest with food sovereignty while maintaining nearby forest cover to
conserve biodiversity and other ecosystem services.

Keywords Agroforestry . Food security . Food sovereignty . Mexico . Traditional ecological knowledge

1 Introduction
Electronic supplementary material The online version of this article The Lacandon Maya constitute an indigenous group who have
(https://doi.org/10.1007/s12571-019-00901-6) contains supplementary
resided in the Lacandon Rainforest region of Chiapas, Mexico
material, which is available to authorized users.
since at least the late 1700s (Palka 2005). In 1972, the
* Tomasz B. Falkowski
Mexican government granted the Lacandon Maya
tbfalkow@syr.edu 621,324 ha of land around the major Lacandon communities
of Lacanja Chansayab, Naha, and Metzabok. They continue to
1 farm and manage land in this Comunidad Zona Lacandona
School of Integrative Plant Science, Cornell University, 135 Plant
Science Building, Ithaca, NY 14853, USA (Lacandon Community Zone) (Calleros-Rodríguez 2014).
2 Lacandon Maya traditional ecological knowledge (TEK) is
Lacanja Chansayab, Chiapas, Mexico
3
partially expressed through their multi-stage swidden (i.e.,
Department of Environmental and Forest Biology, State University
field and fallow, slash and burn) agroforestry system, which
of New York College of Environmental Science and Forestry, 1
Forestry Dr., Syracuse, NY 13210, USA allows them to conserve the surrounding tropical moist forest
Falkowski T.B. et al.

while still obtaining the food and other goods and services Others argue that traditional agroecosystems, like those of
they need (Nations and Nigh 1980; Falkowski et al. 2015). the Lacandon Maya, are both productive, culturally important,
TEK such as the Lacandon Maya’s, is defined as Ba and can help conserve biodiversity because they do not rely
cumulative body of knowledge, belief, and practice, evolv- upon external energy inputs (Giraldo 2018; Paulino 2014;
ing by accumulation of [knowledge, which is] handed down Perfecto and Vandermeer 2008). They claim that hegemonic
over generations through traditional songs, stories and socioeconomic forces continue to marginalize indigenous
beliefs…[concerning] the relationship of living beings (in- peoples and poor rural smallholders, relegating them to farm
cluding human) with their traditional groups and with their infertile land prone to environmental degradation. According
environment^ (Berkes 2008). to this view, rather than empowering rural smallholders, inten-
Milpa management mimics the characteristics and process- sifying agricultural production in these regions will force them
es of natural ecosystems, including the maintenance of diver- to continuously add expensive external inputs, such as chem-
sity, accepting environmental change, and recycling matter ical fertilizers and pesticides, rather than rely upon traditional
and energy (Toledo and Barrera-Bassols 2009). Thus, milpa management strategies that would minimize crop losses and
management limits the use of external inputs, is productive, increase socioecological resilience (e.g., diversification).
and protects the natural environment (Diemont et al. 2005). Bacon et al. (2014) noted that food insecurity among rural
Milpa cultivation is also a culturally important practice that is smallholders is common, but generally seasonal. They pro-
fundamental to the social status of Lacandon farmers, who are vide an empirical case study detailing several interrelated fac-
judged in part by their ability to provide for their families (de tors that contribute to the hungry farmer paradox, including
Frece and Poole 2008). These characteristics make it annual precipitation cycles, crop price fluctuations, inter-
socioecologically sustainable within the context in which it annual droughts, and low income derived from cash crop pro-
was developed (Rubio and Ordóñez 2008). We provide more duction (such as coffee). They also demonstrated several ways
detail about Lacandon Maya agroforestry in Section 2.1. to address this problem: increasing agricultural production by
The poverty rate in Chiapas is 74.7%: the highest in the cultivating larger areas, improving crop storage, and diversi-
country (Consejo Nacional de Evaluacion de la Politica de fying agroecosystems, particularly with perennial fruit trees.
Desarrollo Social 2012). This has resulted in a high degree of Finally, they concluded that there were insufficient data
malnutrition (47%), particularly among rural smallholders and assessing how smallholder agroecological management is
children in the Lacandon Rainforest region of south-eastern linked to food security or lack thereof.
Chiapas (Juarez and Gonzalez 2010; Sanchez-Perez et al. We also observed a lack of empirical research regarding the
2007). Mexico’s indigenous population, 67% of whom live in productivity of traditional agriculture. Most of the existing
rural areas, are particularly impoverished, lack access to social analyses only consider the yields of a few crops – particularly
services and basic infrastructure, and suffer high illiteracy rates grains – ignoring both the productivity of the entire
relative to the dominant mestizo population (de Frece and Poole agroecosystem and the importance of diversity in ecological
2008; Poole et al. 2007). The economic and sociopolitical mar- agriculture (Affholder et al. 2013; Lobell et al. 2008; Van
ginalization of these rural indigenous peoples is one of the main Ittersum et al. 2013). Furthermore, most food security research
drivers of conflict in the region (Homer-Dixon 1996). has focused on the yields and total caloric value of these rather
Several factors have been linked to the malnutrition of rural limited sets of harvested crops. Total calories are but one var-
smallholders, which has been called the Bhungry farmer iable in determining whether agroecological management can
paradox^ in the Global South (Bacon et al. 2014). Some argue meet the nutritional needs of rural smallholders. Calorie-rich
that low crop yields from traditional smallholder diets can still be nutritionally-poor (Pinstrup-Andersen 2009).
agroecosystems can result in rural poverty (Bernstein and In the case of traditional Maya milpas, most data are fo-
Herdt 1977; Phalan et al. 2011; Tittonell and Giller 2013). cused on maize (i.e., corn) (Zea mays) (Cowgill 1960, 1961,
According to this perspective, traditional agroecological man- 1962; Redfield and Villa Rojas 1962; Villa Rojas 1945;
agement cannot match the productive capacity of more inten- Diemont and Martin 2009; Nations 1979; Nations and Nigh
sive agriculture, making the former incompatible with interna- 1980; Schwartz 2015). Some research has documented the
tional and national commodity market economies and trapping yields of the other two crops, besides corn, which are com-
rural smallholders in a cycle of poverty. This, in turn, drives monly planted in Maya milpas and staples of traditional
environmental degradation due to extensive land cover con- Mesoamerican diets: beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) (Arias
version. These researchers and policymakers argue that rural Reyes 1995; Cowgill 1961; Teran and Rasmussen 2009) and
smallholders can overcome this poverty trap by intensifying squash (Cucurbita spp.) (Cowgill 1961; Teran and Rasmussen
their agroecological management and maximizing yields. This 1994). While these crops are undoubtedly critical for Maya
can include reducing the biodiversity of their agroecosystems farmers’ subsistence given their prevalence in Maya milpas,
to focus on cultivating commercial cash crops, using fertilizers many more crops are planted in this traditional agroecosystem
and pesticides, and mechanizing labor inputs. (Ford and Nigh 2016).
More than just corn and calories: a comprehensive assessment of the yield and nutritional content of a traditional Lacandon Maya milpa

To fill this knowledge gap, we used a case study approach While corn is the dominant milpa crop, Lacandon farmers
to systematically and empirically assess the yields of all the also plant a diverse polyculture in their milpas at the onset of
food crops harvested from an experimental Lacandon Maya the rainy season around May (see Nations and Nigh (1980),
milpa. This quantitative assessment provides a holistic over- Contreras et al. (1999), McGee (2002), Diemont (2006), Cook
view of crop and wild game yields from this agroecosystem in (2016), and Ford and Nigh (2016) for various lists of crops
contrast to past studies, which have focused on corn and cal- planted in Lacandon Maya milpas). Most crops are cultivated
ories. Furthermore, we considered a broad range of nutrients for personal consumption, but Lacandon farmers will cultivate
in order to evaluate whether Lacandon Maya milpas could and sell others, such as tobacco and sugar cane, at local mar-
meet the nutritional requirements and ensure food security kets (McGee 2002). Lacandon farmers harvest crops continu-
for smallholder farmers and their families. Because little is ally throughout the year (Falkowski et al. 2015). They weed
known about the temporal distribution of crop availability their milpas as often as once a week and use the dried weeds as
and harvests in Lacandon milpas, we also assessed how the an organic soil amendment (Diemont and Martin 2005).
productivity of this milpa changed over time. These data are Lacandon farmers also actively plant particular tree species
critical to determining whether Lacandon milpa cultivation or facilitate the establishment of seedlings dispersed from
may still result in seasonal food insecurity intra-annually or nearby forests. This is typically done near the end of milpa
be sensitive to interannual socioecological changes. cultivation. Many of these trees provide not only provisioning
ecosystem services, including food, fuel, and medicine, but
regulating and supporting services, including carbon seques-
2 Methodology tration, pest control, maintenance of soil fertility after deple-
tion due to milpa cultivation, nutrient cycling, soil stabiliza-
2.1 Description of the Lacandon Maya agroforestry tion, habitat, and seed dispersal (Diemont and Martin 2009;
system Diemont 2006; Falkowski et al. 2016).
After about five years, milpa production begins to decline
Near the end of the dry season, Lacandon farmers begin the as a result of cultivation, increasing weed cover, and depletion
cycle of agroforestry management by cutting vegetation on of soil nutrients. Lacandon farmers will either burn and replant
small patches of land that were previously cultivated, but had it to increase productivity, or leave it to continue to the
since been left in order to regenerate soil fertility. The farmers acahual, or fallow shrub stages. These periods of time include
then burn this land, keeping the fire at low intensity to prevent the robir, which typically lasts two years, and the jurup che,
it from spreading and to promote the production of black car- which lasts approximately another two years (Diemont and
bon, which serves as a soil amendment (Diemont et al. 2011; Martin 2009; Falkowski et al. 2015). Lacandon farmers will
Diemont and Martin 2009; Nigh and Diemont 2013). continue to manage the plots by selectively trimming and
The first agroforestry stage is a milpa, or kor in Lacandon planting desirable timber species and extracting resources
Mayan. The Lacandon Maya agroforestry system can also be such as medicinal plants, food, and firewood (Nations and
referred to as the milpa cycle, which includes the milpa field Nigh 1980). After the jurup che, they will either burn the plot
stage of agricultural production described below (Ford and once again and replant it as milpa, or allow it to progress
Nigh 2009). For the purposes of this article, we will use the toward the early secondary forest stages: pak che kor and
latter meaning of the term. Corn (maize) is the primary milpa mehen che (Diemont and Martin 2009). Pak che kor literally
crop, both in terms of its yield and its contribution towards translates to Bplanted tree milpa^ and may contain more direct
meeting Lacandon nutritional needs. Lacandon farmers recog- consumables, such as pineapple (Ananas comosus), Choco
nize up to six cultivars of corn: white (sak nar and nu kux sak palm (Astrocaryum mexicanum), and firewood, than subse-
nar in Lacandon Mayan), yellow (k’an nar), rojo (chak nar), quent stages (Falkowski et al. 2016). Farmers may allow the
short (k’aba nar), and black (ek nar), all of which serve dif- system to progress to advanced secondary forest, nu kux che,
ferent cultural uses and functions. White (sak nar) corn is the which is often older than 40 years, or burn and replant it as
most common. It is very hard and rot-resistant, allowing for milpa again if they believe the soil has recovered from the
long-term storage when dried, but also requires to be boiled previous cultivation period. Lacandon farmers still take an
along with alkaline substances so that it can be consumed. active management role in forest plots. For example, they
This process, known as nixtamalization, is typically per- clear areas around desirable tree species to reduce competition
formed using lime, wood ash, or snail shells (Pappa et al. for light and nutrients. Lacandon extract resources from all
2010). Red corn (Chak nar) is nearly as commonly planted stages by gathering medicinal and edible plants, cutting timber
and is also a hard field corn. Black corn (Ek nar) is similarly for building and firewood, fishing and harvesting snails in
rot resistant. Yellow (K’aba nar) and white (nu kux sak nar) rivers and streams, and hunting for peccary, agouti, and mon-
corn are both less rot resistant and therefore less commonly keys (Diemont and Martin 2009). Some of the land is never
cultivated. disturbed and maintained as primary forest, called kax or tam
Falkowski T.B. et al.

che in Lacandon Mayan, to act as seed sources, regulate water situated the plots at random locations within a 1 ha clearing.
cycles, and provide wildlife habitat (Diemont and Martin We made sure each plot was separated from other plots and the
2009; Nations and Nigh 1980). surrounding secondary forest by cutting 5 m wide buffer strips
around each one to minimize edge effects.
2.2 Study site

The Lacandon Rainforest region is classified as tropical moist 2.3 Field methods
forest according to the Holdridge life zone system. A short dry
season lasts from January through April (Servicio A Lacandon farmer and a co-author of this article (Chankin)
Meterologico Nacional 2010). Rainfall averages approximate- managed the sites according to traditional Lacandon Maya
ly 2300 to 2600 mm per year and the mean temperature is agroforestry practices over the duration of the study. We ap-
24.7 °C. We conducted all field sampling in experimental plied traditional methods to prepare, plant, and harvest the
milpas in the Lacandon Maya community of Lacanja milpa plots. In May of 2013, we slashed and burned the plots
Chansayab, Chiapas, Mexico (16.6026°N, 90.9149°W, to clear them for planting (Nigh and Diemont 2013). We
500 m above sea level) (Fig. 1). Most of the soils near the planted a mixture of annual crops in the experimental plots
study site are clayey luvisols and humic acrisols associated in June of 2013. We also planted several native trees and
with calcareous rendzinas (Diemont and Martin 2009; shrubs that would provide food during the agroforestry stage
INEGI 1990; Levy Tacher and Golicher 2004). of the milpa system. These same species provide regulating
The site was located on flat terrain. We established five and supporting ecosystem services such as attracting pollina-
600 m2 milpa plots totaling 0.3 ha as part of another, larger- tors and seed dispersing animals, improving conditions for
scale restoration study. The localized nature of this study lim- later successional plant species, and enhancing soil fertility
ited variation in site conditions and land-use history. We during the acahual and secondary forest stages. This

Fig. 1 Map of study site and experimental milpa plots (top left inset) and Lacanja Chansayab, Chiapas, Mexico (bottom left inset)
More than just corn and calories: a comprehensive assessment of the yield and nutritional content of a traditional Lacandon Maya milpa

management included regular weeding, hunting wildlife that determine how many individuals a typical milpa could support.
damage crops, and harvesting. As per Boremanse (1998), we assumed the average Lacandon
All crop and non-crop foodstuffs were traditionally har- family size as 5.3 people. In order to assess how milpa yields
vested as was necessary and appropriate. We weighed the changed from the first to the second year of cultivation, we
harvested game animals and crops with a hanging spring compared the crop yields from July 1 through June 30, 2014–
scale. We continued quantifying the yield from these milpas 2015, 2015–2016, and 2016–2017. All computations were per-
from July 1, 2014 to June 30, 2017. formed in R (R Development Core Team 2014).

2.4 Quantitative analysis


3 Results
Using the USDA Food Composition (United States
Department of Agriculture 2016) and Plants for a Future Over the course of the project, 37 different non-timber prod-
Species (Plants for a Future 2012) databases, we identified ucts, including crops, medicinal plants, and wild game animals,
the nutritional information per unit mass of each food harvest- were harvested from the study milpa (see Supplementary
ed in the milpa plots, including both wild game animals and Material). The type and number of crops harvested from the
crops (Electronic Supplementary Material). We tabulated total milpa varied from year to year. In 2014–2015, 2015–2016, and
bulk calories (kcal); total, saturated, and trans fats (g); choles- 2016–2017, 20, 24, and 29 crop species were harvested, re-
terol (mg); sodium (mg); total carbohydrates (g); dietary fibre spectively (Table 1). Seventeen crops were harvested in every
(g); sugar (g); protein (g); vitamin A (IU); vitamin C (mg); year of the study. The yields of some crops, such as chayote
calcium (mg); iron (mg); zinc (mg); and niacin (mg) per kilo- (Sechium edule), varied considerably from year to year, while
gram of foodstuff. We used international units (IU) as a mea- others, such as corn, were planted consistently and yielded
sure of vitamin A, because some data did not differentiate quantities that were fairly stable over the course of the study
between retinol and beta carotene, which had different mass (Figs. 2 and 3).
equivalents. Of these, all but zinc and niacin must be listed on The multimodal temporal distribution of milpa crop and
food labels approved by the United States of America Food game harvests corresponds to the distribution of milpa harvest
and Drug Administration (U.S. Department of Health and nutritional content (Fig. 4). Harvested milpa foods met most
Human Services 2013). We also included zinc and niacin in of the percent DV nutritional requirements of an average-sized
our analysis because Mexican children commonly suffer zinc Lacandon Maya family (Table 2). Over the entire study peri-
deficiency (Rosado et al. 1995). Additionally, Wright (2006) od, milpa crop DVs exceeded 530% for all nutrients except
suggests that the diets of the Pasión Maya, which were based saturated fat, cholesterol, sodium, calcium, and iodine.
on traditional Maya agriculture, may have been deficient in Percent DVs fluctuated from year to year, but consistently
niacin, protein, vitamin C, and iron based on osteo- met DV requirements over all three years of the study.
archaeological research. A few crops and wild game species accounted for most of
To evaluate whether the Lacandon Maya milpa could pro- the harvested nutrients (Table 3). Corn alone provided at least
duce enough food to meet the caloric and nutritional require- half of the total calories, total fat, saturated fat, sodium, carbo-
ments established by the United States Food & Drug hydrates, dietary fibre, protein, iron, zinc, and niacin obtained
Administration (USFDA) (United States Food & Drug from Lacandon milpas. It is essential to meet daily require-
Administration n.d.), we calculated the percent daily values ments for iron, zinc, and niacin (Table 4). Other crops, includ-
(DVs) met by average milpa yields. We multiplied the total ing sweet potato (Ipomoea batatas), plantain (Musa X
harvested mass of each food (i.e., crops and hunted game) by paradisiaca), and wild game species, such as paca
its nutrient density (nutritional content per kilogram; see the (Cuniculus paca) and armadillo (Dasypus novemcinctus) were
supplementary information for further details about the nutri- also necessary to supplement to ensure a balanced milpa-based
tional information used, including proxies if direct nutritional diet that includes cholesterol, vitamins A and C, and calcium.
information was unobtainable). We standardized these nutri-
tional values for harvests from our 0.3 ha study area to calcu-
late the mean daily nutritional content provided by a typical 4 Discussion
2.33 ha Lacandon Maya milpa area (average of milpa areas
listed in Diemont (2006)) over the 1095 day study period. 4.1 Food security and sovereignty
Although plots were spatially distinct, they were all clustered
and managed by one farmer. We thus decided to pool the Intra-annual crop yields obtained from our experimental milpa
harvests from individual plots and consider them collectively plots were inconsistent. Various crops were harvested at differ-
in the quantitative analysis. Finally, we divided these daily ent times throughout the year (e.g., sugarcane was primarily
nutritional yields by the USFDA daily reference values to harvested in April, while beans were mainly harvested in
Falkowski T.B. et al.

Table 1 Total standardized quantities (kg ha−1) of crop plants and wild game harvested from a Lacandon Maya milpa annually and over the entire
duration of the study. Results show summed harvest quantities pooled from all study plots over the time period listed in column headings

Common name Scientific name Crop grouping July 2014– July 2015– July 2016– July 2014–
June 2015 June 2016 June 2017 June 2017

Crops
American nightshade Solanum americanum Fruit – 40 60 100
Beans Phaseolus vulgaris Legume/podded vegetable – 70 103.3 173.3
Chayote Sechium edule Root vegetable/Fruit 495 360 86.7 941.7
Chile Capsicum spp. Fruit – – 6.7 6.7
Chives Allium schoenoprasum Bulb 73.3 56.7 156.7 286.7
Chiwa squash (flower) Cucurbita spp. Flower 10 3.3 5.3 18.7
Chiwa squash (fruit) Cucurbita spp. Fruit – 20 46.7 66.7
Cilantro Coriandrum sativum Herb 10.3 3 14 27.3
Corn (Maize, ear) Zea mays spp. Cereal 1343.3 1663.3 1496.7 4503.3
Epazote Chenopodium ambrosiodes Herb – 0.7 5.7 6.3
Jamaica flower Hibiscus sabdariffa Flower – – 40 40
Jicama Pachyrhizus spp. Legume/Podded/Root vegetable 10 – – 10
Mustard Brassica juncea Herb – – 23.3 23.3
Onion Allium cepa Bulb 96.7 306.7 283.3 686.7
Papaya Carica papaya Fruit 450 36.7 86.7 573.3
Peanut (Groundnut) Arachis hypogaea Legume/Podded vegetable – – 23.3 23.3
Pineapple Ananas comosus Fruit 6.7 15 10 31.7
Plantain Musa X paradisiaca Fruit 1266.7 540 1086.7 2893.3
Scallions Allium fistulosum Bulb 43.3 3.3 – 46.7
Squash (flower) Cucurbita pepo Flower – – 10 10
Squash (fruit) Cucurbita pepo Fruit 220 270 560 1050
Sugarcane Saccharum officinarum Grass (stem used for sweetener) 220 553.3 536.7 1310
Sweet potato Ipomoea batatas Tuberous root vegetable 173.3 153.3 226.7 553.3
Taro Xanthosoma spp. Corm 70 66.7 90 226.7
Tomato Solanum lycopersicum Fruit 268.3 103.3 456.7 828.3
Watermelon Citrullus lanatus Fruit NA 20 20 40
Yam Dioscorea spp. Tuberous root vegetable 26.7 56.7 170 253.3
Yuca (Cassava) Manihot esculenta Tuberous root vegetable 230 300 300 830
Wild game
Agouti Dasyprocta punctata – – 16.7 – 16.7
Armadillo Dasypus novemcinctus – – – 56.7 56.7
Crab Sesarmidae spp.? – – – 26.7 26.7
Fish Tilapia family – – – 16.7 16.7
Paca Cuniculus paca – 40.0 73.3 33.3 146.7
Pocket gopher Orthogeomys hispidus – – 5.0 13.3 18.3
Raccoon Procyon lotor – – – 33.3 33.3

September and stored for later use). Most crops were harvested end of the rainy season in October through December (called ka’
seasonally on an annual basis (e.g., squash, tomato), while ani- wi’ in Lacandon Mayan). These harvest periods primarily
mals were hunted in milpas more sporadically and at several depended on annual precipitation seasonality and the growth
times throughout the year. Large quantities of some crops, such rates of individual crop species. Hunting wild game was also
as papaya (Carica papaya), were harvested after windstorms inconsistent, though it was also tied to precipitation seasonality,
toppled trees and crop stalks. Corn was the most consistently crop phenology, and wildlife reproductive cycles. Fish and crabs
harvested crop given its dominance in the milpa. However, even were only found in milpas early in the rainy season when
corn was commonly harvested during a particular period at the ephemeral streams can form in or near the milpa site.
More than just corn and calories: a comprehensive assessment of the yield and nutritional content of a traditional Lacandon Maya milpa

Fig. 2 Monthly totals of crops


harvested from all pooled
Lacandon Maya milpa plots over
the duration of the study period.
Note scale change with species.
Refer to Table 1 for a list of
common names
Falkowski T.B. et al.

Fig. 3 Monthly totals of fish and


wild game animals harvested
from all pooled Lacandon Maya
milpa plots over the duration of
the study period. Note scale
change with species. Refer to
Table 1 for a list of common
names

Despite the sporadic nature of specific, individual for papaya, plantain, and tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) os-
harvests, the nutritional content obtained from them col- cillated inter-annually. Finally, the yields of some crops, in-
lectively were fairly stable throughout the year, indicat- cluding beans and yams (Dioscorea spp.), increased continu-
ing this agroecosystem can minimize seasonal food insecu- ously. Regardless of these inter-annual changes in crop yields,
rity. This stability is demonstrated by the relative constancy of milpa harvests consistently provided enough nutrients to en-
the nutritional content of milpa harvests from our experimen- sure food security for Lacandon farmers and their families,
tal site compared to variability in the harvests of specific food thereby demonstrating this agroecosystem’s resilience.
items. Harvest diversity ensures that even if a particular crop is The constant yields may have been a result of our intense
destroyed or unproductive, Lacandon farmers can still ensure management of a small experimental site, which would be
food security for their family and avoid the seasonal food difficult to maintain in a larger milpa, or due to the fact that
insecurity experienced by many rural smallholders who use we only observed three years of cultivation, which may be
non-traditional methods of commodity crop cultivation in the insufficient to reduce soil fertility at the site. We did
region. Traditional Lacandon milpas can include 50 to 100 not directly relate yield data to biophysical variables,
different crop species and cultivars (Diemont 2006; Ford and including soil fertility, the number of each crop planted,
Nigh 2016; McGee 2002; Nations and Nigh 1980). This di- and climate. Finally, while Lacandon milpa management
versity can further increase the agroecosystem’s productive may maintain the productive capacity of a site for up to
capacity and resilience in the face of environmental variability, five years, non-traditional milpa management, which re-
thereby ensuring food security for Lacandon farmers. places labour inputs with herbicides, tends to permit
Additionally, Lacandon farmers store foods for later consump- only a maximum of three years of cultivation in a given
tion during periods of low productivity, as evidenced by the plot before ruderal herbaceous vegetation outcompetes
dominance and variety of corn cultivars stored (e.g., white and annual crops (Nigh and Diemont 2013).
red corn) planted in milpas. These results underscore the im- Our measures of corn yields were within an order of mag-
portance of increasing the number of fruit trees and crop di- nitude of previous estimates, further corroborating these his-
versity in smallholder agroecosystems to minimize seasonal torical findings concerning Maya milpa productivity. On the
food insecurity as suggested by Bacon et al. (2014). low end, Cowgill (1960) reported yields of 855 kg ha−1 in
Lacandon farmers generally abandon their milpas after Petén lowland smallholder milpas. Alternatively, Nations
three to five years’ cultivation due to declining crop yields and Nigh (1980) reported yields as high as 2800 kg ha−1 in
associated with either declining soil fertility or increasing Lacandon Maya milpas. Our findings more closely corrobo-
weed encroachment. However, we did not observe any con- rated the findings of Redfield and Villa Rojas (1962),
clusive interannual declines in productivity in our milpa plots Schwartz (2015), and Villa Rojas (1945), who reported milpa
over the three years of the study. Yields changed differently yields of 1144, 1700, and 1358 kg of corn per hectare, respec-
over time depending on the crop. Chayote was the only crop tively. Corn yields alone could meet the caloric needs for 6.6
which declined continuously from year to year. Other crop people even though we observed a mean yield of
yields, such as corn and taro (Xanthosoma spp.), remained 1500 kg ha−1, which appears to be well below the maximum
relatively stable over the study period. Other yields, such as yield capacity of a traditional Lacandon Maya milpa.
More than just corn and calories: a comprehensive assessment of the yield and nutritional content of a traditional Lacandon Maya milpa

Fig. 4 Monthly nutrient totals


obtained from all harvested crops
pooled from all Lacandon Maya
milpa plots over the duration of
the study. Note scale change with
nutrient. Iodine is not shown
because all values were zero.
Vitamin A contents for harvested
Solanum americanum were
outliers and therefore not included
in the figure
Falkowski T.B. et al.

Table 2 Mean fraction (as


percentage) of daily requirements Nutrient 2014–2015 2015–2016 2016–2017 2014–2017
for an individual generated by a
typical 2.33 ha Lacandon Maya Calories 2052 2185 2534 2257
milpa as extrapolated from our Total fat 571 670 1013 751
study plots. Results show mean Saturated fat 320 349 677 449
percentage daily values pooled
from all study plots over the time Cholesterol 68 163 299 177
period listed in column headings. Sodium 181 204 239 208
A value of 100 means the Carbohydrates 3039 3082 3472 3198
nutritional content of milpa
Fiber 3603 3746 4397 3915
harvests fully meets the daily
requirements of an individual as Sugar 3752 2479 3805 3346
per the United States Food & Protein 1823 2332 2793 2316
Drug Administration (i.e., a value Vitamin A (with S. americanum) 6697 174,986 263,833 148,505
of 530 is needed to meet the
nutritional requirements of a Vitamin A (without S. americanum) 6697 4758 8490 6648
typical Lacandon family) Vitamin C 8010 3904 7415 6443
Calcium 336 395 593 442
Iron 1573 1849 2163 1862
Iodine 0 0 0 0
Zinc 1348 1592 1739 1560
Niacin 1884 2104 2409 2133

Table 3 Primary food sources of


nutrients provided by Lacandon Nutrient Food Quantity of Percent of total harvest
Maya milpa harvests. The listed each nutrient quantity for each nutrient
foods collectively contributed up
to 50% of nutritional content of Total calories (kcal) Zea mays 3,698,363 58.11
the total milpa harvest over the Total fat (g) Zea mays 48,028 69.73
entirety of the study period for Saturated fat (g) Zea mays 6758 53.37
each of the respectively listed
nutrients (unless one crop Cholesterol (mg) Cuniculus paca 35,640 47.50
represents more than 50% of Dasypus novemcinctus 12,580 16.77
nutritional contribution, in which Sodium (mg) Zea mays 354,637 50.26
only that crop is listed). The total
Carbohydrates (g) Zea mays 752,439 55.63
quantity of each nutrient these
crops provided over the duration Dietary fiber (g) Zea mays 73,967 53.59
of the study is listed (in the Sugar (g) Musa X paradisiaca 130,200 55.19
corresponding units for each Protein (g) Zea mays 95,448 58.44
nutrient which are noted in
parenthesis in the first column). Vitamin A (with Solanum americanum 999,999,990 95.52
The percentage this accounted for S. americanum) (IU)
in the total nutritional content of Vitamin A (without Ipomoea batatas 23,550,420 50.25
the milpa harvest is noted in the S. americanum) (IU)
rightmost column. Because Vitamin C (mg) Musa X paradisiaca 159,712 29.30
Solanum americanum contributed Carica papaya 104,748 19.22
an overwhelming majority of the Cucurbita spp. 60,795 11.15
Vitamin A content provided by Calcium (mg) Zea mays 70,927 11.38
Lacandon milpas, we also
presented the second highest Cucurbita spp. 66,150 10.61
contributor (Ipomoea batatas) as Phaseolus vulgaris 63,960 10.26
well Solanum americanum 63,000 10.10
Ipomoea batatas 49,800 7.98
Iron (mg) Zea mays 27,459 58.10
Zinc (mg) Zea mays 22,393 67.87
Niacin (mg) Zea mays 36,750 61.10
More than just corn and calories: a comprehensive assessment of the yield and nutritional content of a traditional Lacandon Maya milpa

Table 4 Mean fraction (as percentage) of daily requirements for an diverse nutritional profile of traditional Lacandon milpa har-
individual provided by all food except Z. mays obtained from a typical
vests suggest that diets derived from traditional Lacandon
2.33 ha Lacandon Maya milpa as extrapolated from our study plots
annually and over the entire duration of the study. Results show mean milpas may be more deficient in saturated fat, calcium, cho-
percent daily values pooled from all study plots over the time period listed lesterol, sodium, and iodine as opposed to the zinc and niacin
in column headings. A value of 100 means the nutritional content of milpa deficiencies typical of rural populations in the broader
harvests fully meets the daily requirements of an individual as per the
Lacandon region of Chiapas reported by Rosado et al.
United States Food & Drug Administration (i.e., a value of 530 is needed
to meet the nutritional requirements of a typical Lacandon family). The (1995). However, there have not been any empirical assess-
rightmost column lists the percent change from the milpa harvest results ments of the nutritional health of Lacandon Maya populations
in Table 2 if corn was not included in the totals to assess this. Even so, these deficiencies can be overcome by
Nutrient 2014–2017 Percent change from additional foods provided by the other stages in Lacandon
total milpa harvest agroforests, which likely complement nutritionally those
obtained from the milpa.
Calories 946 −58.06 Lacandon traditional ecological management extends into
Total fat 228 −69.64 later fallow stages with farmers continuing to manage and
Saturated fat 210 −53.23 harvest timber and non-timber forest products from secondary
Cholesterol 177 0 and primary forest stages (Naranjo et al. 2004; Nations and
Sodium 104 −50.00 Nigh 1980). For instance, milpa harvests tended to be defi-
Carbohydrates 1419 −55.63 cient in saturated fat, which is unsurprising given that harvests
Fiber 1817 −53.59 are largely plants in the milpa. We included animals hunted in
Sugar 3254 −2.75 milpas, increasing the percent DV of total and saturated fat.
Protein 963 −58.42 Lacandon farmers hunt granivores in milpas primarily to de-
Vitamin A (with 148,198 −0.21 fend their crops, but also plant particular trees that attract game
S. americanum) species. However, most hunting occurs in the uncultivated
Vitamin A (without 6341 −4.62
S. americanum)
secondary forest plots of Lacandon agroforests. Using profits
Vitamin C 6443 0 made by selling surplus crops at local markets, farmers also
Calcium 392 −11.31 purchase cooking oils to supplement their saturated fat intake.
Iron 780 −58.11 The historic Lacandon likely overcame iodine deficiencies by
Iodine 0 0 consuming freshwater fish and eggs. Modern Lacandon can
Zinc 501 −67.88 supplement this additionally using iodized salt (Haldimann
Niacin 830 −61.09 et al. 2005).
Although only 2.33 ha of milpa are required to support
most of the nutritional needs of Lacandon smallholder fami-
lies (i.e. 0.44 ha/person), at least 28 ha are needed to allow for
Similarly, our measurements of other milpa crop continuous milpa cultivation assuming a full 60 year fallow
yields tended to be commensurate with previously ob- cycle is maintained and milpas are actively managed for five
served quantities. We observed average annual bean har- years. All of this can be maintained by a single farmer and
vests of 86.7 kg ha−1, which was more than Arias Reyes their family because most active management takes place in
(1995) and Teran and Rasmussen (2009), who only observed early successional stages (i.e., milpa). Furthermore, assuming
11 and 51 kg ha−1, respectively, but an order of magnitude a total Lacandon Maya population of 734 individuals (based
lower than Cowgill (1961), who measured a mean bean har- on population estimates provided by Kashanipour and McGee
vest of 747 kg ha−1. Whereas we observed a mean annual (2004) and Ross (2002)), we calculate that approximately
squash harvest of 372.2 kg ha−1, Cowgill 1961 observed 3872 ha of agroforests are needed to sustain the current
1000 kg ha−1. This wide variability is likely a function of Lacandon Maya population, with 323 ha devoted to milpa
individual farmers’ management choices. We observed that, cultivation at any given time. This estimate accounts for ap-
while nearly all milpas were dominated by corn, the preva- proximately 6% of the Lacandon Community Zone. Even
lence of other crops (e.g., tobacco, sweet potato, tree crops, including non-Lacandon residents in our calculations, increas-
etc.) differed markedly among milpas, even within our ing regional population estimates to 16,879 (as per Calleros-
experimental system managed by one farmer. Rodríguez (2014)), the land necessary for agroforestry
The milpa is the most intensively-managed Lacandon (89,172 ha) is still far less than the total area of the
Maya agroforestry stage. It is also likely the most productive Lacandon Community Zone. By comparison, Ford and Nigh
in terms of crop yields. Our study demonstrated that nearly all (2016) estimated that approximately 0.3 ha of milpa needed be
of the nutritional requirements of Lacandon Maya families can cultivated to support a single Lacandon. De Jong et al. (2000)
be met with milpa management. Our observations of the calculated that agricultural land cover accounted for 668 ha of
Falkowski T.B. et al.

Lacandon territory in 1996, but this total does not include land use change emits carbon and contributes to climate
secondary agroforest cover, which was listed as secondary change (Alexandrova et al. 2014; Nigh and Diemont 2013).
forest and shrubs. They found that this land cover occupied Intergenerational knowledge transfer is also being disrupted as
18,943 ha of the Lacandon territory. Our estimate is very young people begin to forgo learning about traditional agro-
rough, and assumes no primary forest is maintained, manage- ecological management in favor of working in the burgeoning
ment of a given milpa is maintained for a full five years with- service industries that tourists demand (McGee 2002).
out fail and successional agroforestry sequences occur on
60 year cycles exactly. However, it underscores the potential 4.2 Limitations
role this agroecosystem can play in addressing food insecurity
and mitigating the rapid land use change occurring in the Using a case study approach allowed us to thoroughly and
Chiapan Lacandon Rainforest, both of which are associated comprehensively quantify the full range of foods harvested
with a burgeoning population. The Lacandon Rainforest re- from our experimental site. However, it also prevents us from
gion’s total population grew from 12,000 in 1960 to over drawing far-reaching conclusions regarding the productivity
300,000 in 1996 (Homer-Dixon 1996). However, mature for- of Lacandon milpa agroecosystems at large, as we could not
est cover in the region declined by 31% from 1976 to 1996, account for variability in productivity resulting from differ-
while agricultural land cover increased by 21% over the same ences in management and local environmental conditions.
time period (De Jong et al. 2000). Further work is necessary to determine whether the yields of
In addition to ensuring food security, it is also important to other Lacandon milpas are similar to those we observed.
consider traditional milpa management’s role in providing Additionally, our study was limited to a Lacandon-
food sovereignty. While food security addresses meeting basic managed milpa. Milpa is a term broadly used to characterize
nutritional requirements without necessarily being concerned maize-dominated small-scale Mesoamerican agroecosystems
with the nature or origin of the food, food sovereignty empha- which are cultivated by nearly 2 million households and cover
sizes Bthe right of peoples to healthy and culturally appropri- approximately 6 million ha (Bellon et al. 2014). The conclu-
ate food produced through ecologically sound and sustainable sions we draw regarding the sustainability and viability of
methods, and their right to define their own food and agricul- Lacandon agroforestry are not necessarily applicable to these
ture systems^ (Nyéléni 2007). For Lacandon Maya farmers, other forms of milpa management. For example, Ford and
milpa cultivation is more than an activity to procure food. It is Nigh (2016) noted a more than three-fold difference between
part of a cultural script passed down over centuries from gen- the maize yields harvested from milpas managed by Maya
eration to generation that fundamentally defines, enacts, and groups in different regions of Mesoamerica, with Lacandon
reinforces their identities and relationships with the other Maya milpas being the most productive. Additionally, Collier
members of their ecological and social communities (de and Quaratiello (2005) argued that the milpa management of
Frece and Poole 2008). Furthermore, it is said that Maya Bdo smallholders (many of whom are indigenous to other regions
not make milpa to live, but live to make milpa^ (McGee of Chiapas or Mexico themselves) who settled in the
2002). Maya cosmology is interwoven into milpa manage- Lacandon Rainforest region in the latter half of the twentieth
ment, thus making milpa a spiritual act or sacred duty, com- century and make up a majority of the local population, is
memorating their creation (de Frece and Poole 2008; McGee better adapted to the more fertile soils and milder weather of
2002). It also provides them with culturally-important foods their previous lands as opposed to the nutrient-poor, weath-
that permeate their diets and traditions. For example, ered soils and intense climate of the tropical lowland moist
according to Maya legend, their ancestors were made forest in south-eastern Chiapas. Finally, the Lacandon Maya
from corn (Bassie-Sweet 2000), which is also one of have stable land tenure and a large amount of land relative to
the central crops in the milpa and provides most of their population, contrasting with the often tenuous land ten-
the nutritional content they need. Thus, Lacandon TEK ure (the government is threatening many communities that
is important to the cultural integrity of Maya communi- settled within the borders of what has since become the
ties and the ecological integrity of Mexican tropical Montes Azules Biosphere Reserve with relocation) and rela-
lowland ecosystems and explains why many have vehe- tively limited land accessible to non-Lacandon smallholders
mently opposed development efforts to increase the pro- (Collier and Quaratiello 2005; Weinberg 2002). All these fac-
ductivity of their agroecosystems using methods that are tors may contribute to food insecurity among the diverse and
incongruent with traditional management (de Frece and numerous rural smallholders in the Lacandon Rainforest
Poole 2008). region.
Despite their value, various socioeconomic pressures are The nutritional information we analysed was primarily de-
disincentivizing traditional Maya milpa management. For ex- rived from unprocessed, raw foods. However, Lacandon
ample, the Chiapan government is offering payments to cease Maya prepare and cook most of the crop products and meats
traditional burning practices given the assumption that this we considered. While processing can make some nutrients in
More than just corn and calories: a comprehensive assessment of the yield and nutritional content of a traditional Lacandon Maya milpa

some foodstuffs available for humans, it can also reduce their they are cultivated within a larger landscape matrix including
total nutritional content. For instance, much of the corn, which agroforest, secondary forest and primary forest patches.
contributes a majority of the total nutritional content of all However, because our multiple plots were separated, their
milpa yields, is field corn. This field corn is nixtamalized, total perimeter length (500 m) was greater than it would be
decreasing its B vitamin content and raising the bioavailability for a single, continuous plot of the same area (89.44 m). Thus,
of niacin and calcium (Pappa et al. 2010). Corn is subsequent- our observations may have underestimated the yields per hect-
ly processed into cornmeal for traditional foods such as torti- are of an actual equivalently-sized milpa.
llas, tamales, and pozol. Furthermore, we assumed none of the
harvested food was lost to spoilage and the total harvested
mass was edible (except in the case of corn, with harvested 5 Conclusions
mass that we converted to edible mass based on empirical data
from Atran et al. (1993)). These assumptions overestimated These results underscore the importance of considering a
the total available nutritional content of milpa harvests. range of crops and nutrients in quantifying the productivity
However, even assuming that half of the nutritional content of traditional agroecosystems. Future studies should avoid
of harvested foods is lost during processing, this still ensures assessments that overlook the importance of diversity to these
sufficient caloric, carbohydrate, fiber, sugar, protein, vitamin systems’ function and viability. While corn is a dominant crop
A, vitamin C, iron, zinc, and niacin content for an average- in milpas and an essential nutrient source for Lacandon
sized Lacandon Maya family. farmers’ families, other crops are essential for maintaining
While most milpas are approximately 2.33 ha in size, the food security, food sovereignty, and the resilience of the
total area of our experimental plots was only 0.3 ha. As a agroecosystem. In the case of the Lacandon Maya, future
result, we extrapolated our findings to a larger area. Many work could quantify the foods harvested from secondary for-
agricultural systems tend to have yield economies of scale. ests to determine whether they complement the nutritional
That is, the financial and labour costs required to maintain deficiencies associated with an entirely milpa-based diet.
larger cultivated areas tend to decrease and eventually plateau Our findings show that the traditional agroecosystem man-
with increasing area (Duffy 2009). As a result, it may be that agement of the Lacandon can ensure food security for their
larger milpas may be even more efficient in producing high families. Rather than be discounted as a cause of poverty for
crop yields than the data we extrapolated and report here. rural smallholders, traditional milpa management should be
However, traditional agroecosystems, like those of the celebrated as a valuable land management system that sustains
Lacandon, are unlikely to benefit significantly from econo- their livelihoods. The diversity of milpas may preclude indus-
mies of scale because they do not utilize external or energy- trial intensification in this agroecosystem, but it ensures resil-
intensive inputs. They do this in part for practical reasons, ience and adaptability in the face of environmental and eco-
namely that their diverse polycultures and knowledge- nomic uncertainty.
intense form of management preclude the use of large machin- It is important to note that traditional Maya milpa manage-
ery. They also recognize that increasing the size of their milpas ment provides other ecosystem services than food provision,
would either increase the amount of labour they would need to including supporting services such as habitat for diverse bio-
exert or force them to utilize technologies and management logical communities, regulating services such as pollination
strategies that may reduce the resilience and health of their and soil fertility, and cultural ecosystem services such as sense
agroecosystems. Many traditional farmers are opposed to such of place and education. Thus, Lacandon TEK is an important
changes because their subsistence depends upon the sustain- example of sustainable socioecological management.
ability of their land management methods, which rely upon However, this important TEK will be lost if its value is not
detailed and extensive traditional ecological knowledge as fully recognized by land managers, government agencies, and
opposed to external energy inputs (Falkowski et al. 2015). scientists alike.
Therefore, our results may not underestimate the yield
per unit area of Lacandon milpas due to the small size
Acknowledgements We thank the members of the Lacandon Maya com-
of our experimental plots. munity of Lacanja Chansayab, Chiapas, Mexico for their openness and
While size of our plots may not influence crop yield per patience. National Science Foundation Award 1231334 awarded to PI
unit area, our plots probably suffered edge effects, despite the Stewart Diemont and National Geographic Society Award 71235
awarded to PI Tomasz Falkowski partially funded this work.
buffer zones we cleared around them. Our milpa plots were
cultivated on a plot of land surrounded by secondary forest.
This forest shaded the milpas, provided habitat for animals Compliance with ethical standards
which may have eaten crops and themselves been hunted,
Conflict of interest The authors declared that they have no financial
and acted as a seed source for plants that competed with crops. conflict of interest. One of the authors, Adolfo Chankin, is a Lacandon
Such edge effects are inherent to Lacandon milpas because Maya farmer.
Falkowski T.B. et al.

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Falkowski T.B. et al.

Stewart Diemont is an Associate Robert W. Pedian received his


Professor in the Department of B.S. in Conservation Biology at
Environmental and Forest the State University of New York
Biology at the State University Environmental Science and
o f N e w Yo r k , C o l l e g e o f Forestry in Syracuse, NY. He has
Environmental Science and a minor in Native Peoples and the
Forestry, where he teaches Environment and is interested in
courses on ecosystem restoration, the interface between humans
ecological modelling, and sustain- and their local environment. He
able design. He holds degrees in has spent the past two years
anthropology, environmental sci- researching traditional Lacandon
ence, and ecological engineering. Maya agroforestry in Chiapas,
Dr. Diemont’s research is at the Mexico. He is interested in how
intersection of human and natural this traditional ecological knowl-
systems. He works with edge system and others around
Mesoamerican village communities to better understand how traditional the world are adapting to climate change and how the mutual collabora-
ecological knowledge can contribute to resilient ecosystem design. He tion between these knowledge holders and western scientists can help
considers ecosystems in a multidisciplinary manner, looking at plant and solve the environmental issues of today.
bird communities, soil health, system energetics, and human use. He has
applied this approach to urban and rural systems in the US and Latin
America, focusing often on the intertwining of food systems and ecosys-
tem restoration.

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