{EVERY ARTIST WAS FIRST AN AMATEUR} EMERSON

If you think back and imagine yourself at the very beginning of your career,

did you consider yourself to be an ‘artist?’ As a hairstylist, you are an artist

whose work is always on display. Artistry will be a strong focal point and

theme throughout this course. First, we will review the basics in color theory

to remind ourselves on what color formulation is founded upon. Later in this

course, we will explore trustworthy techniques, trending tools, and hot

tips/tricks. In addition, we will be bringing in the advice of the most profound

artists of all time. So, settle in and join us on exploring our world in color.

THE NATURAL LEVEL

Natural level of hair is referred to as the teeny tiny granulated pigments that

are all merged together in the cortex of each and every hair strand. This is

what you see as someone’s natural hair color. The natural level determines

how light or dark the hair is. This level system ranges from 1 – 10.

Quick review below:

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Knowing where your client’s natural level falls is paramount in the first step in

color formulation. This sets the stage for what lies ahead in your color

service. When determining your client’s natural

level, keep in mind that their hair color and your

trusty swatch book may not perfectly match up.

Why? Because each and every person’s natural

hair color is exclusive to them. A swatch book is

there to guide you in selecting the closest natural

level to your client, and to aide you in your consultations.

TARGET SHADE/END GOAL

Once you have established the natural level, you will now need to determine

your target shade, also known as, your end goal. When time to formulate for

your target shade, you will need to consider the underlying pigments that lurk

within each of the natural levels. Underlying

pigments have an enormous impact on your end

goal. Though they be tiny, underlying pigments

are large in sight when the natural level is

stripped away from them. We have all witnessed

and some of us have called out to the color gods

when these hotter than hades inferno colors show up and reveal what is

really going on under those natural levels. Can it be scary? Sure. Does it have

to be? No. Here is how we combat the underlying pigs… oops… pigments.
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Underlying pigments start to reveal themselves when we start activating

lift/decolorization in the hair strand. When lifting a lower natural level, which

is typically a cooler tone, the hair will decolorize revealing the inferno tones,

also known as warm tones.

Knowing how to predict whether or not the underlying pigments will

cooperate with us, and in addition, knowing how to take charge of their tones

with their complimentary companion is vital to complete your goal.

Let’s break this down in the chart below:

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{COLOR IS MY DAY LONG OBSESSION, JOY, & TORMENT} CLAUDE MONET

Most likely, you will face the challenge of formulating a level of lift that

remains neutral, and doesn’t uncover the underlying pigment. To help you

with these challenges, contemplate using a combination or ‘cocktail’ of

complimentary companion colors when formulating. Need an example?

Let’s look at Client ‘S’…

‘S’ wants to lift her

Natural level which is

about at a 4 or 5 and

lighten it to a target

level of a 6 or 7. If we refer back to the underlying pigment chart on page 3,

you can see that the hair will go through different stages of revealing

underlying pigments of red, orange, and even a little golden tones. Most

would settle for just one complimentary companion color to use, in this case

green would most likely be chosen. But, because she is dancing in a few

different tones of underlying pigment ranging from reds, to oranges, and even

golds – a cocktail combination could be prepared with mainly green tones, but

with a splash of blue as well. To be more technical, you would consider using

1 oz of green to a ½ oz of blue. By involving the complimentary companions

from each level of underlying pigments will result in neutralizing more

efficiently and successfully every time. If you are creating custom color for

your client, then CUSTOMIZE IT!

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{PAINT FROM THE INSIDE OUT} GEORGE DE GROAT

When the target level requires you to take the client’s hair darker, the use of

fillers are necessary. Fillers are created as a preliminary step when desiring

to darken the hair by two levels or more. Opposite of neutralizing the

underlying pigment when lifting the hair, you will now need to fill in the

missing warmer pigments to establish a solid foundation for a safe and

successful deposit during the color application process.

Think of lightened hair as having a lot of negative or empty space within each

hair strand. The pigments have been ‘stripped’ from the hair. Fillers are

designed to fill in this empty space before the application of your target

shade, evening out your canvas on each hair strand, as well as, helping to fill

in the extra porous ends that could re-lighten prematurely if not filled

properly.

When applying a filler, choose a semi/demi color

line of your choice. Keep in mind that depending

on the porosity and the guidelines from the

manufacturer, you may or may not need to wash

the filler application out. Some decide to dry the

filler into the hair strands or will use a towel to dab

the excess filler off the hair, while others will decide to leave the hair damp

when starting the second application. Be mindful that using these various

methods can result in to different outcomes, using your best judgment and

knowledge from your manufacturer of choice is always recommended.

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When formulating for Client ‘L’ to the

right, just take a minute and

brainstorm on how you would

execute her color transformation.

Keep in mind that even though we

would generally agree on how to

formulate this client’s color, we are

all called artists for a reason. One

approach may be different than the

next and still achieve the same target shade or end goal. The example that is

given on how this target shade was achieved is not the only way to get there.

With that said, open your mind to how this was accomplished, maybe you

would have chosen to do the same! We know that her natural level is at a

level 3, with less than 25% grey. We can see Client ‘L’ has out growth that is

a couple inches from root to midshaft. From midshaft to her ends she has

dimensional colors ranging from levels 10 to 7 due to past highlighting and

lowlighting. After consulting with Client ‘L’ we decide that she wishes her

target shade be a red-violet base at a level 4 at the roots, and blending down

to a 5 on the ends to have her goal look with dimensional color. Now that we

have determined her natural level and her target shade, we are ready to begin

formulation. To fill in her midshaft to ends, the application of a combination

ranging from level 8 golds and level 7 coppers, the warmer the tones, the

better. Remember we need to fill in what was taken away during her previous

lifting service. Once the demi level 8 gold and level 7 copper combination has

been applied, the stylist used a towel to blot the any excess color that
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remained on top of the hair strands. Once satisfied, it is now time to move on

to the second application – the target shade. Formulation consisted on

application of a level 4 red-violet base at the root with a 10 volume developer

to lift the base by a level. Formulation for the midshaft to ends included a

level 5 red-violet base with a 20 volume just to add a little bit of brightness

for the dimensional look. Once both colors have been applied, let process at

your manufacturer’s instruction. Within the last 10 minutes of the processing

time the stylist used a comb while sectioning off partings for better control

and ran the comb gently through each manageable section to blend or melt

the two sections together for a seamless transition from roots to ends.

In the situation where a 2-step deposit isn’t possible, for example when

adding in lowlighting into a pale blonde, just add more warm tones into your

lowlighting formula. This will allow you to

anticipate the need to balance the porosity

and the underlying pigment at the same time.

Take Client ‘A’ for example. A very pale

blonde wishing to bring darker levels into her

hair. The application process this stylist took

was rooting the base by dragging the color

application from the roots into the midshaft,

to then be met up with the balayaged

lowlights that were painted in.

The formulation used on Client ‘A’ included

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a warm tonal base at a level 7 with a demi permanent color line. The stylist

chose to use a demi permanent color line because color was only being

deposited on the hair and didn’t require any peroxide for lifting. This keeps

the integrity of the hair a main focus, and in addition, using a demi permanent

color will fade on tone without any harsh outgrowth ends. Creates a more

seamless and blended outcome.

Most often, stylists forget the many benefits that lie within demi permanent

color lines. Demi permanent

hair color can be used in

several different ways for

many different reasons.

Multiple uses include but are

not limited to the following:

 Refreshing mid-strands and/or ends during a permanent hair color

application

 Tone highlights

 Refresh the tone & the shine the hair just processed on

 To lowlight

 Tone after a pre-lightening treatment

 Blend grey

 Ideal introduction to first time color clients

Adds shine to virgin hair

 Typically a first chemical choice anytime lift is NOT required

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A good reminder from our friend Andy Warhol below – if you are finding yourself bored with

this Throwback Theory segment, just hang in there… but MORE importantly allow it to bring

you back to the foundation on which everything we do as an artist is built upon … I’d say that

is rather thrilling in its self!

{YOU NEED TO LET THE LITTLE THINGS THAT WOULD ORDINARILY BORE

YOU SUDDENLY THRILL YOU} ANDY WORHOL

For a basic color review on comparing permanent, demi permanent, and semi

permanent refer to the chart below:

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Exploring the world of hair lighteners has become a vast array of choices.

Each and every manufacturer has a couple, if not, several different options

within their color line to choose from. Before we discuss the different TYPES

of lighteners, let’s refresh ourselves on WHAT lighteners are. Lighteners are

only used for decolorizing the pigments within the hair strands which allows

the most power when lifting hair to different levels. Lighteners have a very

high pH, and can typically reach levels of 7+ in lifting potential.

Most lighteners can now be used on and off

the scalp, but we remind you to double check

with the individual manufacturer before

applying directly onto the scalp. Lighteners

typically lift from the time it is applied until

the time it is removed. As long as the

lightening product is wet or moist, it will continue to work/process. It is

important to remember that even if you are using a 10 volume developer with

a lightener, it can still damage the hair if it is not closely monitored. In

addition, be mindful that the higher the developer the higher the lift, but with

that comes the higher the developer the warmer the color will turn out. For

instance … if you are trying to achieve a pale blonde, don’t rush to the 40

volume, you will need to tone it every time. Instead use a lower developer so it

can process more evenly and won’t jump to those awful undertones so

quickly on you! It is the ‘slow and steady wins the race’ mentality.

{CREATIVITY IS INTELLIGENCE HAVING FUN} ALBERT EINSTIEN

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DIFFERENT TYPES OF LIGHTENERS

To touch on every type of lightener would take an entire booklet in itself.

Instead we are going to touch on the most common you will encounter, see

the chart prepared for you below:

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When mixing any color formulation

it is important to understand the

individual recommendations for

proper measuring from

manufacturer to manufacturer.

Measuring creates the proper

consistency for the best results. It

is suggested that when mixing

lightener, add the liquid first, then

the powder. Folding the powder

with a spatula like tool will help keep the aeration of the lightener to a

minimum. If you whip/whisk lightener creating more air to move through the

product, it can weaken your lightener faster than you desire. Typically,

lighteners can weaken as soon as 20 minutes after initial mixing. Also,

consider mixing a thicker consistency for finer hair, and a thinner consistency

for your thicker haired clients. Mixing a thicker consistency for your finer

haired clients will allow the hair to process at a more even rate, and not

process too quickly. For your thicker haired clients, mixing a thinner

consistency will allow for more even processing time and thorough saturation

on the hair strands. Always remember when choosing your developer, the

texture of the hair will determine the lift.

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Let’s take a gander at a few of the different tools used nowadays for hair

coloring services, both older and newer. These are a few of our favorite top

tools:

FOIL: Foil has been used since the pulling through the cap days started to

phase out. It has been a faithful friend to all colorists since the day it debuted

in salons everywhere, and has been the primary choice due to being cost

effective, and easy to use. Foil processes the hair fastest among all other

‘foil-like’ options, by keeping in the heat

allowing for quicker progress. Foils can

be found in pop-up easy to use boxes,

rolls, or even in tinted varieties where

one side is embossed/colored and is

chosen to be used in multi-colored

processes to keep track of which color is

in which foil.

PLASTICS: Plastics or balayage films are used to keep sections seperated,

while keeping the hair moist with the product. If the hair is moist, it continues

to process. Quality Touch offers both cling and non-cling balayage films.
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COTTON: Used for open-air processes typically at room temperature. Also

used for keeping sections separate.

BIOLIGHTS COLOR: Cotton ‘foils’ or cotton hair color strips that are 100%

biodegradable and are used as an alternative to traditional

foils. Able to apply color more efficiently and produce

natural color results, with no slipping, color swelling or

bleeding.

{Created by New York Celebrity Colorist

Rick Wellman, Biolights are not only speedier and safer for the environment,
they’re also safer for your client’s hair. Why? Because the natural cotton fiber
enables aggressive color catalysts like ammonia to dissipate during color
processing, rather than heating up and accelerating, which is what happens
when hair is processed in aluminum. Behindthechair.com }

FLAMBOYAGE MECHE STRIPS: Provides the ability to select and isolate the
hair with a simple fast gesture by selecting a small random amount of hair
that firmly adheres to the strip which then becomes your working surface.
Flamboyage Meche Strips are transparent in color allowing for easy checks of
color development during the entire
processing time.

{Ensures a diffused & harmonious

chromatic result along hair length &
minimizes the regrowth effect.
Behindthechair.com}
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EMBEE MECHE SHEETS: Re-usable/washable color barriers that allow you

to keep the lightener moist longer. Semitransparent to see how your color is
processing or what colors you have placed where. No slip, no stain, and
barbicide safe for proper sterilization.
BALAYAGE STRIPS: Provides a more consistent highlighting application
which is non slip once the color is applied. It is 25%
lighter than foils and encapsulates approximately 95%
of ammonia and peroxide fumes that are exposed
within the salon atmosphere. Creates a faster
processing time for most color applications.
PAPER HIGHLIGHTING STRIPS: A flexible and lightweight alternative to

traditional foils. Used for highlighting and multi-level hair coloring. Helps cut

prep time in half for stylist.

THERMAL COLOR WRAPS: Made out of a polystyrene material

which adheres with just one fold, making application and removal

much quicker compared with traditional foil. Non-slip texture

keeps product in place and helps control any swelling or bleeding. The

thermal properties retain heat to speed up processing and are 25% lighter

than most foil.

ECO-WRAPS: A sustainable highlighting strip made from a renewable

tapioca base that is non-toxic and degradable. These Eco-

Wraps turn see-through once it becomes in contact with hair

color so you can easily monitor your color processing.

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BALAYAGE BOARDS: Used for artistic balayage color applications. By

placing the hair you wish to color on the board, allows you to have a firm

foundation to paint on.

BLUR BRUSH:

Redken Blur Brush is a customizable color technique that allows you to create
multi-tonal color with incredible dimension. The longer bristles help distribute
color formulas evenly and create gentle transitions from one shade to the
next… essentially blurring the colors together with no start or finish to the
joining sections.
THE BLONDE WAND BY PRAVANA:

Able to lift up to seven levels in seconds

using this unique thermal lightening tool, in

combination with the Pure Light Crème

Lightener, allows colorists to lighten the hair in a matter of seconds with less

damage to the hair than the traditional lightening processes .

W.O.W COMB: A must have tool for even the most advanced

colorists. Perfectly designed for seamless color-melts but can

be used from basic root shadow touch-ups to simply combing

conditioner through the hair. The red insert rolls and has little

nubs on it that help distribute product evenly without removing

the color. No more harsh lines and no more wasted product.

This comb is a salon game changer!

{THE ARTIST SEES WHAT OTHERS ONLY CATCH A GLIMPSE OF}

LEONARDO DAVINCI
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We have now become refreshed with the throwback

color theory (congrats on hangin’ in there), explored the different tools for the

color trade, and now we are going to pull it all together with how to create the

beautiful color trends with the artistic application techniques. Starting with

the brilliant balayage technique that is sweeping (no pun intended) over all

color services around the world. The French term, balayer, means to sweep.

The technique of balayage is basically sweeping in hair color by way of hand

painting in free form highlights. Most commonly used, but not limited to, clay

lighteners. Balayage offers a more natural look to traditional highlighting by

doing away with a more uniform-like highlights in typical foil processes.

{IF YOU HEAR A VOICE WITHIN YOU SAY, ‘YOU CANNOT PAINT’ THEN BY

ALL MEANS PAINT, & THAT VOICE WILL BE SILENCED} VINCENT VAN GOGH
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The French word, Ombre, means shaded or shading. When

Ombre first took trend, the popular look transitioned from

dark roots down to lightened ends. Since then, some have

reversed the ombre from darkened roots at the top to the

lightened ends at the bottom, switching it to lightening the

roots and darkening the ends.

{TALENT IS A PURSUED INTEREST. IN OTHER WORDS, ANYTHING YOU

ARE WILLING TO PRACTICE, YOU CAN DO.} BOB ROSS

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Glazing, glossing, toning, and overlays are all relatives from the same family.

The specific definitions of each of these applications are up for interpretation,

which varies from colorist to colorist, so let’s break them down to the best of

our abilities for better understanding. All of these applications can be done

using various formulas from semi permanent, demi permanent, permanent,

and reflective permanent color lines.

Choose a permanent overlay when desiring the maximum amount of

penetration or break through power into the cortex. You may also choose to

use a permanent overlay when fighting warmer undertones during a color

correction service. For maximum shine that penetrates the cortex with less

surface saturation, choosing a reflective permanent hair color is suggested.

When deciding between using demi permanent liquids vs. demi permanent

cream colors, consider what your end goal is. When desiring a more

translucent or transparent shine, choose a liquid demi permanent color line.

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When desiring more of an opaque look

for example, when adding in lowlights,

choosing the consistency of a cream

demi permanent color is advised.

Consider using a porosity equalizing

spray to mist over the hair prior to your

glazing, glossing, toning, or overlay

services. Doing so will prep the hair

allowing for even processing, and

seamless color application by balancing

out the porosity within the strands.

Understanding color placement when referring to negative and positive space

is a great way to build a foundation off of the blueprint you are designing for

your customized color service. Referring to the diagram below, the lightener

being the positive space and whatever is left darker is considered your

negative space.
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Knowing where and how to place the negative or

positive space during your color application allows

for better contouring for the most flattering results

for your client. If you are trying to enhance a

facial feature, you will need to add lightness or

create a positive space around that area. If you

are trying to contour on a longer faced client and

wish not to enhance the elongation of the facial

shape, keep the first section darker to add

negative space at the neck/jawbone. Another

example of creating negative space would be for a

client who has recession around their hairline, you will need to leave that area

darker… adding lightness at the receding hairline will only enhance the depth

of the recession area. Just as contouring is widely used with make-up

applications, the same can be done with hair color contouring. Always

remember to be mindful of where and why you are choosing to place color on

your client.
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