Full-Tang Knife Demo Jan 19, 2013

Step 1: Creating the Drawing & Template

Create a full-scale drawing of the knife. Include all dimensions, pin layout, scale
materials, etc. in your concept drawing.
Cut out the drawing with scissors or a razor blade knife and glue to template material
(masonite, wood, or mild steel bar)
Cut out the shape leaving a little more than the finished shape. Grind the profile to finish
on the 2x72 inch belt grinder.
Pin holes may be drilled in the template, if you choose (only on steel template material).
Step 2: Transferring the Shape to Blade Steel
Hold the template on the blade steel and draw the profile on the blade steel with a
pencil. Cover the pencil line with dark fluid (layout dye or a black sharpie pen)
Clamp the template to the blade steel and scribe the profile with a carbide scribe.
Cut out the shape with a band-saw and grind the profile on the 2x72 belt grinder as you
did when creating the template. Drill the pin holes where you want them.
Step 3: Scribe the Center Line
Blacken the edge from end to end. Using a center scribe set to half the thickness of the
steel scribe either a single or double line along the edge.
Step 4: Rough Grinding the Blade
Chamfer the blade edge on the 2x72 with a 45° rest using the 8 inch wheel and a 60 grit
belt. Grind almost to the center line, leaving the edge approximately 1/16 th of an inch (or
slightly less) thick.
Progressively hollow out the blade defining the plunge cut location and tip.
Switch out the wheel for the flat platen and a 100 grit belt. Flatten out the hollow grind
and work the edge until the face is flat. The edge remains thick. Finish up the faces on
the disk grinder using 100, 120, or 150 grit paper removing all wavy lines that might
have appeared during the previous grinding.
Step 5: Heat Treatment
Heat the blade to critical temperature (1450° for most steels, consult manufacturer’s
specs) and quench in oil. Oil must be between 120° and 130° for proper hardening and
the blade should be handled with a wire through the rear pin-hole. If using a forge to
heat the steel, check for non-magnetic for proper temperature. Leave in oil until sizzling
stops and immediately transfer the blade to a vise with copper bar jaws to finish
quenching and straighten.
Remove blade from vise when safe to handle, clean all oil off, and check for warping.
Severe warping will require re-hardening and straightening the blade. Minor warping
can be surface ground out after tempering the blade.
Bake at temperatures required to achieve desired Rockwell hardness. Each
temperature is held for 1 hour.
O-1 or 52100: 375° and 400°
5160 or spring steel: 350°and 375°
1084 or 1095: 275°and 300°
(These temperatures produce approximately RH 57-59)
Step 6: Surface Grinding
Using the flat platen, disk grinder, or a surface grinder, prepare the sides until they are
parallel and flat. Re-scribe the center line and prepare to finish grind the blade.
Step 7: Finish Grinding
Finish the flats on the disk progressively from 100 grit to 320 grit paper. Restrike the
center line along the edge as in step 3.
Using the 2x72 grinder, set the plunge cuts using a Trizac belt and a stop tool.
Using the 2x72 grinder, progressively grind the faces using 60, 100, and 220 grit belts
until the edge is approximately .020 inches thick and the point is well defined.
Finish the faces on the disk to 220 grit, erasing all grind lines from the 2x72 belts.
Hand sand all face surfaces to 320 or 400 grit as desired.
Set your maker’s mark with the etching tool and stencil. Clean up by hand with whatever
grit paper you ended with.
Step 8: Making and Attaching the Handle Scales
Take the two handle scales and clamp them to one side of the knife in position to
accommodate the final shape. Drill through the knife pin holes and both scales
simultaneously. The scale against the knife will be in its final position. The scale on the
outside will be inside-out. Mark the inside of each scale. Attach each scale one at a time
to the knife using pins cut to the proper length and cut off the excess material around
the knife handle profile on the band saw. Mark the rough profile for the front edge of one
of the scales with it attached to the knife.
Now take the scales off of the knife and sandwich a piece of plain paper between the
scales and pin them to one another with the paper where the knife should be. Shape the
front end by removing the excess with the band saw and grinding the final curve on the
2x72 grinder. Bevel the front of the scales leaving the same reveal at the bottom of the
scales. (Using the paper as a guide helps. Compare the distances from the paper to the
bottom of the scale) Using the 45°bevel rest as in step 4. See sketch below.

Now pin the scales to the knife (no glue yet) and finish grinding the profiles on the 2x72.
Get the perimeter sanded down to at least 220 grit. Mark the front edge of the scales on
the knife with a pencil and disassemble the knife. Hollow out the area of the handle on
the knife with the wheel on the 2x72. Hollow out the underside of the scales with a
Dremel tool or other rotary burr. Remember to leave a thin line of flat around the
perimeter of the knife handle area and the scales for flush mating. 1/16 to 1/8 inch is
good. Once the hollowing out is complete, you are ready to glue the scales to the knife.
Use 30 minute epoxy for best results and coat areas you don’t want epoxy to stick to
with Vaseline. I always wrap a paper towel around the blade area and secure it with
blue painter’s tape. Pin and clamp the scales to the knife with a layer of epoxy filling the
hollowed out areas. Wipe any excess glue off with cotton swabs and Vaseline (acetone
works too, but be careful because the acetone can weaken the glue, if it seeps in-
between the scale and steel). Let the glue cure before finishing the handle.
Step 9: Finishing the Handle
Clean all the unwanted glue off of the back and belly of the handle area using a soft
scraper. Mark the back ends of the handle scales with a pencil where you want the final
thickness to be. I usually wrap the blade in several layers of blue painter’s tape before
proceeding to the next step.
Using the 9” disk, hold the blade off the disk along the center line horizontally so that the
heel of the handle is in the center of the disk and roll the knife so that the surface of the
handle becomes rounded. Start using a fairly rough grit (60 or 80) depending on how
much material you have to remove to get to your finished thickness. Progress through
finer grits always checking the symmetry at the front of the handle and the heel until you
have reached 220 grit. Check the profile and hand sand to at least 220 grit to remove
any wavy lines. Finish the surfaces to the final grit (usually between 220 and 400) and
desired thickness of the handle. Finish by hand sanding the surfaces and buffing to a
shine. Sharpen the blade.