Geometric Beadwork Volume 2 Digital Edition

Geometric
Beadwork
Volume 2
By Jean Power
Geometric
Beadwork
Volume 2
By Jean Power
Volume 2 | Welcome
Geometric Beadwork Volume 2 is written and published by Jean Power

www.jeanpower.com
Copyright © 2014 Jean Power
ISBN-13:978-1544717968
ISBN-10:1544717962
First Edition - published November 2014

Second Edition - published May 2017
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or

transmitted by any means, electronic or mechanical, without the express
permission of the author.
I love to support and encourage any individuals who make beadwork and
sell or gift what they make. Please feel free to use anything you make from
instructions in this book as gifts or to sell to support your bead buying habit!
Printed by CreateSpace
There are many people I would like to thank who have helped this book to
come to fruition:
• Everyone who has ever been to one of my classes, purchased a book by
me or bought a pattern or kit from me. It is with your support that I am
able to continue designing and exploring beading
• Kyle Cassidy for the use of his photos on pages 58, 61 and 62
• Lynn Davy for helping to make sense out of it all!
• All the beady friends I have made along the way. Your friendship and
support means the world to me
• Special thanks go to everyone who put their faith in me and pre-ordered
a copy of this book. Without you it would not have been possible
Please note that I have tried my best to ensure that these instructions are
accurate but if you spot any errors, have any queries, or would like to show
me photos of anything you have done from the book (and I would love to
see them!) please contact me through my website at www.jeanpower.com
Welcome | Volume 2
Welcome!
If you previously journeyed with me through Volume
1 then it’s nice to have you back, and if this is your
first experience of geometric beading with me then I
hope you enjoy what you find within...
...but first up an apology...
In Volume 1 I mentioned how maths wasn’t essential, but I want to warn you up front that in this
volume I have sneaked some in. But don’t worry, if I can do it then anyone can!
All of the calculating that you will do is so As before, this book is laid out in order A lot of the ideas contained within this
that you can play with a project and vary of progression through shapes, ideas and book began growing back in 2001, when I
it to your heart’s desire. So, take a deep difficulty, with each project building on first added a corner into my beadwork, and
breath and dive in, it’ll all be worth it in the the techniques in that section and ideas their variations and inspiration have turned
end. developed in previous projects. I have also into the projects on these pages. I look
Just as in Volume 1 I have tried to give you included some information at the front of forward to seeing how they change and
as much information, and inspiration, as the book as to how the different ideas flow evolve once in your hands.
possible to enable you to either replicate from one to the next and then included
each project exactly, or take the basic ideas ideas for ways you can take that forward.
and make it your own.
Geometric Beadwork Volume 2 by Jean Power | 3

Volume 2 | Contents
28 34
38
44
46 49 58 68
70 74 76 82
88 110
112
86
113 115
119 128
4 | Geometric Beadwork Volume 2 by Jean Power

Contents | Volume 2
Basics
8 Terminology & Tips 19 Point Round &
100
10 Materials Decreasing
& Tools 20 Zipping & Joining
12 Design & Inspiration 22 Bezelling Crystals 116
18 Peyote Stitch &
Herringbone Increases
54
Triangles
26 Beading a 46 Tila Bangle
Triangle 49 Pearl Bangle
28 Triangular Building 50 Cosmic Diamonds 122
Blocks
34 Beautiful Bunting
54 Cosmic Pyramids 40
58 Heroine Necklace
Necklace
64 Heroine Gallery
38 Beaded Donut
68 Heroine Variation
Pendant
70 Suspension Bangle
40 Rivoli Donuts
74 Bugle Suspensions
44 Double-Sided Crystal
76 Undulating
Donuts
Suspensions
Squares 104
80 Distorted Squares 86 Pagoda Bail
82 Dragon Scale 88 Tila Star
50
Bracelet
114
The Maths
94 The Basic Maths 112 Zinnia
96 Power Increasing 113 Zinnia 14mm
98 Larger Holes 114 Zinnia 27mm
99 Getting Uneven 115 Zinnia 20mm
100 Compass Rose 116 Lotus Necklace
Pendant 119 Lotus 20mm
104 Mix-It-Up Necklace 122 Embellished Lotus
110 Suspensions 124 Flower Stars 124
Pendant 128 Interlinked Lotus

Basics
Get started with all

the basics needed to
help you begin beading
geometrically...
basics | Terminology & Tips
Terminology & Tips

All the terminology, hints and ideas you’ll need to
start creating your own geometric beadwork…
Step-Ups
• This is the practice of ensuring you finish a round by
threading through, usually but not always, the first bead
 
added in that round.
• Sometimes the specific bead you need to thread through
will be different, but a Step-Up is always needed at the end
of a round.
• It can be easy to miss your Step-Up, and only thread
through the first bead of your round, not spotting that you
need to go through two. If you do this your work will begin
to spiral and one side of whatever shape you’re making will
always be shorter than the others. The only way to solve it is
to undo your work...
Top Tips
• Beware the ‘hiding’ Step-Up!
As you bead, especially when you decrease, your Step-Up will be moving around. Even when it
seems you don’t have a Step-Up you will, it just may not be so obvious or it may come after you
perform a decrease rather than the last bead of a round.
• To help you see your Step-Up, it can help to count out all your corner beads before you begin a
round i.e. 6 beads for a triangle
Impact
Right at the start... It’s important to understand that, as you bead, everything new
you add has an impact on what has gone before. This means
To knot or not that your work is continually changing & adapting and you need
I rarely tie a knot when I begin my work as I believe it holds to give any changes, e.g.increases or decreases, time to fully
the work too tight and doesn’t allow the beads to find their perform their magic.
own space as you continue. I only make an exception to So bear with it, and never give up too soon. Extra beading adds
this is when I purposely want my work to be too tight, e.g. extra thread, extra substance, extra security and extra shaping, all
Distorted Squares of which have a bearing on the end result.
The rule of 2
Whenever tying anything into a circle, and I know I’ll want Corners vs. side spaces
to return to my start later, I thread through 2 beads to begin. When you bead geometrically you’ll find that your shape
Immediately the tail thread is ready to just pick up and carry (such as a triangle or square) will begin to develop two
on with later different types of spaces: corners and sides.
• Corners are where all the action happens. It is these
spaces where you will increase or decrease to alter the
size of the shape.
• Side spaces just have one bead added into them, and
their quantity increases as you continue to increase your
work.
However, as soon as you start increasing or decreasing in a
side space it becomes a corner…or horn...or a point...

Terminology & Tips | basics
Spaces vs. gaps Different ways In a nutshell!

Be aware when beading geometrically Pay close attention to the instructions This will tell you the basic steps
that unlike regular peyote stitch, where as sometimes similar phrasing means
needed to complete a project in
you add beads in spaces formed by the something completely different...
this book
previous rounds, you will sometimes
need to add beads into gaps between Back through
beads, especially when using a This means to go through a bead
Herringbone Increase in the opposite direction than you
previously went through it
Beads per side

It can be difficult to count rows or
rounds, so instead I count the beads
Circle through along an edge when I want to ensure
Circle through means to thread I make pieces the correct size. This is
through a bead (or beads) in the same done by counting the beads that sit
direction that you previously went along one edge of the work (making
through it sure to include one from each corner!).
In this diagram I would say this triangle

was ‘5 beads per side’.
My Top Tip...
remember to
relax & enjoy it!
Splitting a pair
When you insert any beads between a
Row vs. round pair of beads in a previous round this
Rows are for flat beadwork, where you is referred to as ‘splitting the pair’. If preferred you can count 2 in each
weave from one side to the other. Rounds corner and then the beads along a side
are for circular and tubular work, where for the same result
the beginning and end are right next to
each other
Point Row or Round

When you have finished increasing,
and add a round with a single bead in
every space, this is the Point Row or
Round
I use the same method when

decreasing, so I would say I had
decreased this triangle down to
‘2 beads per side’
Experimentation
is key... play
and see where it
takes you...

basics | Materials & Tools
Materials & Tools

There are very few essentials you will need
when beading geometrically but some items I can’t
bead without are...
Beads db ETC
Most geometric work is beaded using cylinder beads, which are shaped like small sections Whenever DB or AK is used in this
of tube with nice flat sides (in contrast to seed beads, which resemble doughnuts with book it refers to the manufacturer’s
their curves). These straight sides, combined with exact manufacturing, means the beads code number for a Delica or AIko
sit closely together and your work is precise.Cylinder bead is the generic name and some bead
brand names are Delicas, Aikos and Treasures. • DBS is for a small (size 15) version
If you’re more used to seed beads you’ll find that cylinder beads have much larger of the bead
central holes which means you can thread through them many times and also use knots • DMB is for the medium (size 10
to start and finish thread- heaven! But the downside to this is that the ‘walls’ of the beads version)
are thinner and some, especially frosted or textured where some of the bead is removed to • DBL is for the large (size 8) version
create its look, can be more fragile. • AK is for a size 11 Aiko bead
Cylinder beads are now available in sizes 15, 11, 10 and 8 so experiment with different • CUT means the bead has facets
ones for different effects, or mix-and-match for added interest and texture.
Since Volume 1 of this series was published lots of new bead shapes and styles have
come onto the market and lots of fun can be had mixing them into geometric work for Thread
different looks (check out the two Tila beads projects within these pages for example). As in the first volume my advice on thread
is short and simple...use what YOU like. As
long as it works for you, you treat it with
care and discard it when tatty, whichever
thread works best for you is the one I
advise using.
With their flat sides and

precise sizing cylinder
beads are pefect for
creating neat, regular
angular work
Tila beads are flat

and square with
two holes and
Rounded seed
come in a wide
beads create more
range of colours
rounded work

Materials & Tools | basics
Bead Breaker
A tool that may not seem necessary at first
but soon you’ll find you can’t live without it!
Comprised of a push pin (which gets fatter
towards the base) and an eraser. It is the pin
that does all the work - the eraser is there to To use your bead
keep the pin safe in your bead bag and give breaker simply place
the point into the bead
you something to press into.
you wish to remove and
Simply insert the pin into a bead you want press into the eraser
rid of, push hard and voila- a broken bead
and non-broken thread
A bead breaker is one of the most useful beading

tools out there!
Bangle Sizer
I make a lot of continuous bangles where clasps are not
used and because of this I find a bangle sizer invaluable.
It works like a metal belt and you can use it to see what
size will slide over your hand and fit comfortably on your
wrist. But do beware that your beadwork will usually be
more flexible than the sizer, so set it to the smallest size
possible. I also use the sizer for tracking my progress so I
can see I am actually getting somewhere!
Bangle and Neck Wires

These findings, where one end unscrews (sometimes sold
under “Add-A-Bead” or “ball-end”) are great for creating
versatile jewellery as you can thread items on and off as
desired

basics | Design & Inspiration
Design & Inspiration

I am often asked about where I get my ideas from.
Though it may seem they appear from nowhere, there
is often a meandering path that has led me there...
That path can take me in a variety of different directions based on the questions I ask, the answers I come up
with and the inspiration I find around me
As I bead anything my mind fills with Some examples of specific questions I ask • Doodles or detailed drawings with
questions that either help me to see the are are: annotations showing any important
direction that piece should go in, or gives • Is it working? points
me ideas for my next piece. • Does it physically and structurally work? • Record your voice using your phone, a
The questions can be generic, or very • Do the beads work? dictaphone or software on your computer
specific, depending on whether I have • Am I happy with the colour? • Draw a flow-chart or mind map (some
begun a project or am still pondering it. • How would it look with different beads? examples of these are over the page) to
I don’t ask all the questions each time • Can I alter the shape? Can I alter the illustrate the questions and answers and
and they may not all be relevant to you scale? Can I alter the sizing? help you to see where your mind was
(for example replicating, explaining and • As I play with it in my hands does that leading
diagramming are important for me but give me ideas for new versions?
may not be a consideration for you). • Does bending or distorting it give me Using the answers
any ideas? All of the answers I get from thinking
Basic questions • Are there sections that can be removed? about the questions can be used to either
Some basic examples of these questions • Are there sections that can be joined? alter the project, bead something new or
are: • Can it be broken down into store away until I know what to do with
• What do I want it to be? Necklace? components? that information.
Earrings? Ring?...
• What beads do I want to use? Storing the answers The only thing I then need is time to bead
• Will it be different in other beads? The last thing you want to do once you’ve all the ideas!
• Are certain beads better for it? had an amazing idea, or come up with a
• Can people get the beads needed? solution to a problem, is lose or forget it -
• Can it be interchangeable? I’ve done that far too many times!
• Can it be reversible? So I suggest recording the answers and
• How will it be viewed when worn? ideas. You can do this by:
• Can it be replicated? • Scribbles or words in a notebook
• Is sizing an issue? Can the size be • Typing them up on a computer
adjusted once finished?
• Can a beader chose their size?
• What part do I want to visually
highlight?
• Can I explain it? Can I diagram it? Can I
teach it?
• Will others want to learn it?
• Can I finish it before the deadline?
All of these lead me to begin beading...
Specifics
As I continue beading my mind fills with
new possibilities, often brought on by
looking at my work and playing with it in
my hands.
These new questions are pefect for giving
me ideas on where to go next with a
project, or where to begin with a new
variation.
Design & Inspiration | basics
This amazing necklace was beaded by Barbara Burling-Perkins and shows

what happens when you consider how your bead work will look from
all angles. The clever use of colour means that one side of the necklace
appears blue when worn and the other green

Mapping it out...
I use a mix of notes, doodles and mind-maps to record
my ideas and two examples are shown here. These
detail how all of the projects in the Triangles section,
and some of those in the Maths section, are related
and flow from one to another
This mind-map shows what happened when I began with the idea of the
Basic Maths and asked 4 generic questions. The different paths those
questions led me to take each have a different colour so you can follow the
journey through more questions and 11 projects
Use it to
increase? The maths To make petals?
Crystal Flowers
Compass Volume 1
Rose Use it to
page 100 elongate? Use it to
make continuous
strips?
Remove the central hole?
Mix-It-Up Necklace
page 104
Rick-Racks
By beading By
Volume 1 zipping up?
into the start
and making 3D?
Interlinked Rick-Rack
Volume 1
Zinnia
page
Lotus 112
Interlink?
page 116
Play
with
Interlinked crystal
Lotus sizes? Don’t zip
Remove
page 128 the bezel the edges?
at the
centre?
Other Lotuses
page 116 Embellished
onwards Lotus
page 122
Flower Stars
page 124

Design & Inspiration | basics
This mind-map shows what happened when I began with a basic triangle and
asked 5 questions. Those questions led me down different paths and led to
more questions and 15 projects
Heroine Variation
page 68
Triangular Building Cosmic

Blocks Necklace Diamonds
page 28 4 joined? page 50
What happens if I use a
different crystal? How will I
have to alter it? Cosmic
Joined Pyramids
Joined flat? 3D? 6 page 54
joined?
Heroine Necklace
page 58
What happens when joined? Beautiful Bunting Necklace

page 34
What happens if I
split a triangle into
parts? The tab is zipped to itself?
Basic
What happens if I play
with new bead shapes?
What happens if I add a tab?
Triangle
Tila Bangle
page 46 The tab is zipped to
another triangle?
What happens if I turn it into

Altering the bead shapes?
a 3D component? Geometric Beaded Donut
Suspensions? Pendant
page 38
Pearl Bangle
page 49
Basic Bangle?
The centre space is filled with a crystal?
Suspension Bangle
Add an integral Rivoli Donuts
hole? page 70
page 40
Altering the size? Thread onto a finding? Add

Suspensions Pendant
different ends? Make it reversible?
page 110
Double-Sided Crystal
Undulating Suspensions Bugle Suspensions
Donuts
page 76 page 74
page 44

Lastly, look around you...

There is so much amazing geometric work out there,
in many different mediums such as graphic design,
architecture, furniture design and much more
Keep your eyes open and see how you can be inspired by it. In the meantime here are some amazing
geometric jewellery creations that showcase just what can be done with some angles by designers who use
geometry in their work...
These incredible knotted necklaces, created by ARUMIdesign

(www.ARUMIdesign.com) show just what is possible with
thread, geometrics and colour in the hands of a skilled artist

Pauline Hagan (BENU- www.benushop.etsy.com) creates
striking and colourful jewellery from leather. This beautiful
necklace shows how vibrant triangles can look when you have
fun with colour!
Pen (www.penhand.etsy.com and www.penhands.blogspot.gr)

makes leather and fabric pieces. This dramatic necklace uses
colourful square shapes carefully overlapped to show off her
skill at combining pieces and keeping it fresh and uncluttered
Astrid Reichenbach (www.anastrideavor.

etsy.com) makes hand embroidered or
beaded jewellery and this triangle based
centrepiece showcases her great use of
shape and colour as well as sewing talents
basics | Peyote Stitch & Herringbone Increases
Peyote Stitch & Herringbone

Increases In peyote stitch the
Peyote stitch is based on a pattern of making spaces, and then filling beads you pick up at first
those spaces with beads. This book doesn’t contain the basics of form the first and second
learning peyote stitch – there are many others far better for that – rows or rounds of your
instead it focuses on showing you how to manipulate peyote stitch to piece
create geometric and 3-dimensional beadwork
Circular peyote stitch to create

Flavours of peyote geometric beadwork
stitch Step 4
Peyote stitch comes in many forms: Step 1 Usually you would then split these double
circular, flat, tubular… and these This is beading which goes around in a beads in the next round and make sure
can all be either odd or even-count circle, usually with 1 bead added into one that any further increases didn’t happen on
and this book uses a mix of them space. top of the previous ones so that your work
all remained circular and even…
Step 2
At the end of every round you will Step- Step 5
“
Up to exit the first bead added in that …however, in geometric beading we want
Don’t panic if your work round and be ready to continue. to use these increases, and the way they
doesn’t seem to want to lay distort the beadwork, by placing them right
flat right away. It often takes Step 3 on top of one another and creating corners
In order to keep your work flat and even, and more...
a few rounds to make it sit you sometimes need to increase your
right
” work by putting 2 beads into one space.
Herringbone Increase
This is made by adding 2 beads into any space, or gap, in order to increase the width of your work or
distort it to add a corner etc. It can be added anywhere you want it and continuing to add increases one
on top of the other is what will shape your work and make it geometric
Increasing in a peyote strip Increasing in circular peyote

Bead peyote stitch as required, then when you reach the spot you If beading a piece of circular peyote then you can add
want to increase, add 2 beads instead of 1. Herringbone Increases into any of your spaces. If you
As you bead the next row, when you reach the previous increase, continue increasing on top of previous increases you get
exit the first bead of the pair, pick up 2 beads and then thread corners and from this you can make geometric shapes
down the second bead of the pair. Continue beading the rest of
the row, adding any further increases as required

Point Round & Decreasing | basics
Point Round & Decreasing

Both of these ideas and technqiues are essential to shaping and altering your work. Experimenting with
them is the key to creating unique pieces
Point Round
This is used to end any increase
and begin altering its direction,
or to add a ‘neater-looking’ edge
to a piece, in which case it’s
optional
It’s simply beaded by adding just 1

bead into every space, including on
top of any previous increases
Decreasing
This is what you’ll do any time you want to reduce your work in any way
Starting to decrease top tip

Before actually decreasing you first need At first it may seem as though there’s
to add in a row, or round, which has a a large gap and you may want to add
bead either side of the space you want a bead, but resist! The more rounds
to decrease. you add, and the tighter you pull, the
So, bead a row, or round, with 1 bead
more your beads will pull in and the
in every space, which will become your
smaller the gap will be
first row, or round, of decreasing
Continuing to decrease
On your next row, or round, thread
through your work using regular peyote
stitch but, when you reach the spot
where you want to decrease (exactly
where you increased previously if you
want them to match up) don’t have a
bead on your thread. Instead make sure
you pull tight to bring the two beads
you’re threading between together.
Continue decreasing using this

method, making sure when you get to a
corner or where you want to decrease,
you add nothing and thread across
between the two beads that stick out
either side of the decrease until you have
gone down as far as you require

basics | Zipping & Joining
Zipping & Joining

Zipping your beadwork, using ‘fake’
peyote stitch, is how you’ll join
separate pieces and how you’ll unite
the ends of the same piece
Preparing to zip
Before you can zip pieces together,
they need to be the correct size and
shape. Even though it seems wrong
this means you don’t want each
piece to be the same size (as in this
diagram) as then the ‘teeth’ beads
will meet face on rather than slotting
together.
Instead you want to add a Point

Round to one piece, which will let
them unite as desired.
top tip
If uniting many pieces together I always only add
a Point Round to the first one and all the other
pieces get theirs after they have been zipped to
the appropriate piece or pieces
How to zip
Simply weave between your two
pieces of work, threading through the
beads in the last round of each one
(these will be the ones that stick out
more).

Zipping & Joining | basics
Uniting Beading
If you want to add an extra layer of
security, neatness or tightness (its
effect and need depends on what
you’re doing) you can ladder/ square
stitch the last side beads of each of
your pieces together.
In this diagram the beads you would
connect have a dot on them.
This diagram shows you the thread

path you will take to join the beads
Continuing to zip
If you’re going to carry on adding
pieces then you will need to fill in the
Point Round all the way around the
second piece in preparation for the
third being able to unite with it.
top tip
It’s easy to forget to add
in these new beads which
form/ finish the Point
Round of the second piece
but they are essential for
your next piece to have
beads to zip to easily

basics | Bezelling Crystals
Bezelling Crystals
Unadorned geometric beadwork is a thing of beauty.
But sometimes you just need to add in a touch of
sparkle...
Whatever you’re bezelling you’ll use a mix of size 11 cylinder beads (C beads in the instructions) and size 15
seed beads (S beads in the instructions)
Bezelling a 14mm round Rivoli

These gorgeous crystals,
Swarovski #1122, are easy to
bezel and add just the right
amount of sparkle
Step 2
THE STEPS... Round 3. Bead a round using 1 x C bead in
every space. Ensure you step up to end the Step 4
Step 1 round by exiting the first bead added. Rounds 6 -7. Return to your tail thread
Rounds 1-2. Thread your needle with a and, at the back of your work, add 1
workable length of thread. Pick up 36C Step 3 round using 1 x S bead in every space.
beads, and circle through the first two to Rounds 4 - 5. Bead two rounds using 1 x S Insert your crystal so it faces out through
join into a circle. bead in every space. Rounds 4 - 5 and then bead 1 more
round using 1 x S bead in every space.
top tip top tip

Whatever you’re bezelling, If needed, you can add extra rounds of S beads at Whatever you’re bezelling you always needs to
the back of your work to ensure your crystal is very secure ensure that, after the edge rounds, all rounds
You can also ‘bead’ a round where you mimic the action of beading peyote using S beads are pulled tight and sit ‘inside’ the
stitch but with no beads i.e. just threading through all the beads added in the circle of C beads to ensure they hold your crystal or
last round as this will help to tighten without adding new beads cabochon securely
Bezelling 27mm round stone

These larger pointed back Step 2 Step 4
stones, Swarovski #1201, don’t Round 3-5. Using C beads add another 3 Rounds 8-9. Return to your tail thread
mathematically combine easily rounds of circular peyote stitch. and repeat Step 3. Insert your crystal
with the other stones I use a lot into your bail as you work, at a suitable
so need a bit more pondering if Step 3 point, so it is held tightly within your
you want to adapt a project Rounds 6-7. Using S beads add 2 rounds beadwork.
of circular peyote stitch, ensuring you pull
STEPS... tight so the work decreases.
Step 1
Rounds 1-2. Pick up 64 C beads and
join into a circle by threading through 2
beads, leaving a long thread tail.

Bezelling Crystals | basics
Bezelling a 30mm round flatback stone

The first time I saw these crystals I
fell in love with them and have ever
since tried to come up with as many
projects using them as I can. Various
makes and sizes are available but the
ones I use most are Swarovski #2035
chessboard
THE STEPS...
Step 1 Make it reversible top tip
Rounds 1-2. Pick up 72 C beads and join into To join 2 x 30mm pieces back As you bead this bezel you need to
a circle by threading through 2 beads, leaving to back simply bead a total of keep your work loose enough to
a long tail thread. 9 rounds using your C beads ensure the beadwork fits around the
instead of 6 crystal. This is not usually an issue but
Step 2 beware if you have very tight tension
Rounds 3-4. Using C beads add 2 rounds of
circular peyote stitch.
Step 3 top tip

Rounds 5-7. Using S beads add 3 rounds of
Half of 72 is 36...
circular peyote stitch, ensuring you pull tight
...this is the number of cylinder beads you need to bezel a 14mm rivoli...
so the work decreases.
...so anything beaded around a 30mm flatback can be easily adapted for a world
Step 4 of exciting variations...
Rounds 8-12. Return to your tail thread and
repeat Steps 2-3. Insert your crystal into
your bail as you work, at a suitable point, so
it is held tightly within your beadwork.
Bezelling a 20mm round flatback stone

Step 3
The smaller version of Round 4. Using C beads add 1 round of Step 5
Swarovski #2035 are just as circular peyote stitch. Rounds 7-9. Return to your tail thread
versatile and you can have lots and repeat Steps 3-4. Insert your crystal
of fun adapting patterns for Step 4 into your bail as you work, at a suitable
them Rounds 5-6. Using S beads add 2 rounds point, so it is held tightly within your
of circular peyote stitch, ensuring you pull beadwork.
THE STEPS... tight so the work decreases.
Step 1
Rounds 1-2. Pick up 48 C beads and
join into a circle, leaving a long tail
thread.
Step 2
Round 3. Using C beads add 1 round of
circular peyote stitch.

Triangles
Begin your geometric journey right

at the start with three-sided shapes
that are more exciting and versatile
than they may first appear...
triangles | Beading a Triangle
Beading a Triangle
The simplest of all shapes to bead -
beading heaven!
Increasing a triangle
THE STEPS...
Step 1 Step 1 Step 2
Round 1 - Begin with 3 beads. Join them
into a circle by circling through the first one
again.
Step 2
Round 2 - Bead this by adding a
Herringbone Increase into each gap
between the beads in Round 1. This forms
the corners.
top tip ...

Note that this is not regular peyote
stitch, you don’t miss a bead before
you add new ones in
Step 3 Step 4
Step 3
Round 3 - Add another Herringbone
Increase on top of each one in Round 2 -
this continues to increase the corners. In
every other space add 1 bead; these are the
side spaces.
Step 4
Round 4 - Add another Herringbone
Increase on top of each one in Round 3
and 1 bead into each of your other side
spaces. Note that there are now 2 side
spaces along each side. Step 5 Step 6 -
Point Round
Step 5
Round 5 onwards - Continue this pattern
(adding a Herringbone Increase on top of
each one in the previous round and single
beads into every side space) until you have
increased as much as you want to. Note
that the number of side spaces will increase
with each round.
Step 6 Point Round - Bead a round with

just 1 bead in every space.

Beading a Triangle | TRIANGLES
“ I personally love triangles as their shape lends itself so easily to experimentaion and
new possibilites but their method of construction is easy enough that you don’t need to
follow step-by-step instructions once you’ve learnt it
”
Decreasing a triangle Step 1 Step 2
THE STEPS...
Step 1
Round 1 - As with all corner decreasing,
you need to bead at least one round of
‘regular’ peyote stitch, with a bead either
side of the corner space, in order to have
a corner space to decrease in.
Step 2
Round 2 - Bead another round of peyote
stitch, but thread across the corners
without adding a bead. i.e. make a
Peyote Decrease. The beads in your
previous round will pull into the centre,
but this can take a few rounds until it sits
comfortably.
Step 3a Step 3b
Step 3
Round 3 onwards - Continue beading and
decreasing by not adding a bead in the
corners until you have decreased as much
as required.
Step 3c
top tip ... remember that step-up!
For all geometric beading this really is an important tip:

The Step-Up may look like it’s not there but it is. Look for it
hiding around a corner or after a decrease. It’s sneaky like
that...
If you lose it then your shape will distort and sadly the only
solution is good old backwards beading... which is no fun for
anyone

Triangular Building Blocks | triangles
Triangular Building Blocks

Volume 1 began with a project based on
triangles joined together and so the trend
continues...
This project’s inspiration came from the triangle bracelet in
Volume 1 and my wishing to experiment further with attaching
triangles in different ways and making different necklaces
Materials
To make one centrepiece measuring THE STEPS...
6½ inches/17cm long and 5¾ inches/ The first block
14½cm wide: Step 1
• 36g size 11 cylinder beads Bead a triangle using rounds in the order
For the accompanying necklace: 3xA, 4xB, 4xC, 4xD and 2xE until you have
• 10g size 11 cylinder beads 17 beads along a side.
• 2 small pieces of Velcro
Step 2
Sizing Add a Point Round using E beads.
Size 11 beads made a large centrepiece so
you could use size 15s for a smaller version
or 10s for a larger one...
You can also add or remove rounds on the
individual triangles to alter the size
Variations
Simply using different combinations of
triangles for a completely new look
Techniques
• Zipping & Joining, page 20
• Beading a Triangle, page 26
I used
• Pumpkin – DB653 (A beads) Step 2
• Shiny blue – DB216 (B beads)
• Matte copper - DB340 (C beads)
• Matte light blue – DB376 (D beads
• Transparent lustre rust – DB116 CUT (E
beads)
In a nutshell!
•B ead 15 triangles each up to
17 beads along a side
• Add a Point Round to the first
triangle top tip
• Zip the second triangle to the You can get rid of the threads after each component
first then fill in the rest of the has its Point Round added as you’ll use the thread
Point Round from the next one to attach that
• Repeat to join all 15 triangles as
shown
• Bead an interchangeable
necklace if desired
triangles | Triangular Building Blocks
Step 3
Step 4

Step 3
Bead another block but with no Point
Round. Zip one edge to the first block,
ladder stitching the end beads if desired.
Step 4
Fill in the other 2 sides of the missing Point
Round on the 2nd block.
Step 5
Repeat Steps 1-4 until you have beaded,
and connected, a total of 15 building block
components as shown.
This smaller piece uses stripes in

the triangles and is attached to
a fine chain using jump rings
triangles | Triangular Building Blocks
Step 1
Completing the necklace

THE STEPS...
Step 1
Cut your Velcro to size into 2 pieces and
stitch the soft side to the back of your
beadwork so it will be that which rests
against you if you wear it without the
strap.
Step 2
Attach each piece to the top triangle on
each side.
Step 3
Measure the length you wish the beaded
strap to be.
Step 2 top tip

I made my strap longer than needed
as then I can just add some twists or
knots into it when I want to wear it
shorter
Step 4
Attach a new thread to what will be the
inside edge of your side of Velcro.
Step 5
Pick up enough beads to make the strap
the minimum length you need and then
stitch to the other piece of Velcro left so
the beads you have added will form the
inside circle of the strap.
Step 6
Continue adding strands of beads, as many
as you wish for the fullness you desire,
making sure to increase the number of
Step 4 beads you use as you work out further
from the centre.
top tip
I made sure to keep my pieces of
Velcro horizontal as I beaded as this
helped me to ensure my strands were
getting longer

The beaded strap can be

used on other pieces for
more versatility
Adding an extra
triangle at the end of
your piece will alter
the look
6 triangles joined in a circle

make a flat centrepiece
9 triangles make a larger triangle

Beautiful Bunting Necklace | triangles
Beautiful Bunting Necklace

Turn a basic triangle into a whole new component
with just the addition of a beaded tab…
This project uses two different components to make an
interchangeable necklace that can be instantly transformed for a new
look!
Materials Techniques Step 2

To make 12 bunting pendants and 31 • Beading a Triangle, page 26 Weave to exit the first Point Round bead
beaded beads: along any side facing away from the
• 45g of size 10 cylinder beads (I used THE STEPS... corner.
30g in my main colour and 1¼g each in 12 Step 1
different highlight colours) Using a highlight bead colour, and then Step 3
• 1 necklace wire (optional) the main bead for the last round, bead a Using odd-count peyote stitch bead a piece
triangle with 8 beads a side and add the of peyote stitch 13 beads wide and 14
I used Point Round using main beads. rows long.
main bead:
• Gold – DBM1834 Step 1
Highlight beads: Step 3
• Light topaz – DBM852
• Blush pink – DBM207
• Matte red – DBM362
• Bronze - DBM22
• Matte brown - DBM853
• Light metallic pink - DBM1839
• Metallic hot pink - DBM1840
• Matte gold - DBM331
• Transparent matte orange - DBM855
• Matte orange - DBM872
• Opaque orange - DBM722
• Transparent red - DBM172
Variations
• Adding in your highlight colours in just
dots would give you a more subtle Step 2
effect
Sizing
Each pendant is 1¼ inches/ 3cm wide and
1½ inches and 3½ cm long
Each beaded bead is ½ inch/ 1cm wide and
¼ inch/ ½ cm long
In a nutshell! top tip

•Bead a triangle until 8 beads a You can always bead a longer tab by
side (highlight bead for 7 rounds simply adding extra pairs of rows
then main bead)
•Add a Point Round using main
beads top tip
• Using main beads stitch a tab 13 You’ll know when your tab is long
beads wide and 14 rows long enough as you’ll be able to see 7 new
• Zip the last row of the tab to the beads along each edge
appropriate beads in the last main
round Geometric Beadwork Volume 2 by Jean Power | 35
This necklace is easily variable, depending
on your mood, by simply unscrewing
one end of the neck wire and threading
36 | Geometric Beadwork Volume 2 by Jean Power components on and off
Beautiful Bunting Necklace | triangles
Step 4 Step 6
top tip
You’ll know when you’ve beaded
enough rows for your beaded bead
when you can see 8 beads along each
edge
top tip
If you don’t want to make an
interchangeable necklace then just 13
beaded beads are all you will need
Step 4 Step 6
Fold your newly beaded tab over and zip Using your main beads bead a piece of
the edge to the appropriate last main beadwork 6 beads wide and 16 rows long.
round beads on the same edge of the Zip the first and last rows together to form
triangle that you beaded the tab from. a beaded bead. Repeat to make a total of
31 beaded beads.
Step 5
Repeat Steps 1–4 using your other
highlight beads to create a total of 12
pendants.

Beaded Donut Pendant | triangles
Beaded Donut Pendant

The next logical step from adding a tab
onto a triangle was seeing what would
happen if I joined triangles with tabs...
6 triangles can be joined to make a flat circle but the addition of spacing using beaded tabs adds extra interest
Step 4
Materials Repeat Steps 1-3 to bead a second Step 7
To make pendant you need triangle. To add a hanging tab, from any triangle,
• 3g size 11 cylinder beads (I used 2½ in on a side not joined to another, bead a tab
my main colour and ½ in my highlight Step 5 7 beads wide and 24 rows long. Zip the
colour) Bring the two triangles together and zip end to the appropriate Point Round beads
the tab on one to the appropriate side on the same side of the triangle to finish.
I used of the other.
• Eggplant - DB1850
• Matte copper - DB340 Step 6
Repeat beading and joining triangles
Sizing and tabs until 6 are joined. Step 5
Including the hanging tab the pendant is
2¼ inches/ 5½cm long and 1¾ inches/ 4½
cm wide
Step 3
Techniques
THE STEPS...
Step 1
Using your main beads bead a triangle with
5 beads a side. Add a Point Round in main
beads.
Step 2
Weave to exit the first Point Round bead
along any side facing away from the
corner.
Step 3
Using odd-count peyote stitch bead a strip
7 beads wide and 5 rows long using your
highlight beads.
In a nutshell!
•B ead a triangle until 5 beads a side. Add a Point Round
• Bead a centralised tab 7 beads wide and 5 rows long
along one side of your triangle
• Bead another triangle and zip to the tab of the first Step 6
• Repeat joining and zipping triangles until a total of 6 are
joined
• Bead a hanging tab

From top: Basic Triangle, Inwards
Arrow and Sideways Arrow
Rivoli Donuts | triangles
Rivoli Donuts
That empty space in the centre of the beaded donuts
is just begging to be filled with something sparkly!
Beading your tabbed triangles around a centre crystal and then playing with
pattern and sizing leads to lots of exciting variations…
Materials Step 3 Step 7

To make one pendant For the Point Round instead of picking up Zip the edge of your first triangle to the
• 5g of size 11 cylinder beads a bead for the first corner space weave edge of your second to join.
• ½g size 15 seed beads through any bead bead on the central
• 1 x 14mm round rivoli crystal round of your rivoli and add this bead into
the first corner.
I used
• Grey - DB268 - my main bead Step 4
• Cream - DB203 - alternative main Finish the Point round using main beads.
• Bright orange - DB752
• Transparent red - DB774
• Opaque orange - DB744
• Bright red - DB791 Step 4
• Transparent orange - DB703
Rivoli
• Matte red - DB778 Step 7
Variations
Shown here are just 3 possibilites for
variations. Just slight changes can give Step 8
Rivoli
you so many more so why not experiment Repeat beading triangles and joining them
and see what you come up with. Different until you have a total of 6 around your
stripes? Dots? larger crystals? Smaller Step 5 rivoli.
tabs?… Weave to exit the first Point Round bead in
either direction after the point joined to the Step 9
Sizing rivoli, facing away from the corner. Using Weave to exit any bead in the last round
Each pendant is 1¾ inches/ 5½cm across odd-count peyote stitch, and your main of seed beads at the back of your rivoli.
beads, bead a tab 7 beads wide and 5 rows Using seed beads bead a strip of beadwork
Techniques long. 2-4 beads wide and approximately 22 rows
• Zipping & Joining, page 20 long and zip this to the opposite edge of
• Bezelling Crystals page 22 the last round of seed beads.
Basic Triangle Step 5

Step 1
Bezel a rivoli in your main beads.
Step 2
Using a highlight colour bead a triangle
Rivoli
until 4 beads a side. Add 1 round in main
beads
In a nutshell! Step 6
Repeat Steps 2-5 to bead a new triangle,
•B
ezel a rivoli and then follow using another highlight colour and
the different instructions for attaching it to the 3rd bead along on the
each project for a variety of ways same round as before on the rivoli.
to embellish the bezel using
triangles
A beaded strip at the back means you can easily

hang your pendant
triangles | Rivoli Donuts
Sideways Arrows
Step 1
Bezel a rivoli in your main bead.
Step 2
Step 2 Using a highlight colour bead a triangle
until 4 beads a side. Add 1 round mostly in
main beads but with highlight beads in the
central 3 spaces along one side.
Step 3
For Point Round instead of picking up
a bead for the first corner space weave
through any bead on the central round
of your rivoli and add this bead into the
first corner, making sure that the highlight
beads in the previous round face to one
side.
Step 4
Steps 3- 4 Continue the Point Round using a main
bead in the next space, a highlight bead in
the next two and a main bead in the next
11. Then finish with main beads.
Rivoli Step 5
Weave to exit the first Point Round bead
in either direction after the point joined
to the rivoli, facing away from the corner.
Using odd-count peyote stitch bead a tab
7 beads wide and 5 rows long. Make sure
you use main beads for the first and last
edge beads.
Step 5 Step 6
using another highlight colour and
attaching it to the 3rd bead along on the
same round of the rivoli.
Step 7
Zip the edge of your first triangle to the
Rivoli edge of your second to join.
Step 8
Repeat beading triangles and joining them
until you have a total of 6 around your
rivoli.
Step 9
Weave to exit any bead in the last round
of seed beads at the back of your rivoli.
Using seed beads bead a strip of beadwork
2-4 beads wide and approximately 22 rows
long and zip this to the opposite edge of
the last round of seed beads.
Step 7
Rivoli Donuts | triangles
Rivoli Rivoli
Inwards Arrows Step 7

Step 1 Zip the edge of your first triangle to the
To begin bezelling the rivoli pick up 1 edge of your second to join. Step 5
x highlight bead and 5 x main beads.
Repeat another 5 times using 1 each of Step 8
your different highlight beads. This forms Repeat beading triangles and joining them
Rounds 1 and 2 of your rivoli. Bezel the rest until you have a total of 6 around your
of the rivoli as usual using your main beads rivoli.
making sure to begin beading when exiting
a highlight bead.
Step 2
Using a highlight colour bead a triangle
until 5 beads a side.
Step 3
For Point Round instead of picking up
a bead for the first corner space weave
through the matching highlight bead on
your rivoli bezel to add this bead into the Rivoli
first corner. Fill in the rest of the Point
Round using your highlight beads.
Step 4
Weave to exit the first Point Round bead in
“ By adding a hanging tab to every arrow you can
hang the pendant whichever way up you wish giving
either direction after the point joined to the
rivoli, facing away from the corner. Using
odd-count peyote stitch bead a tab 7 beads
you 6 pendants in one!
”
wide and 5 rows long. To get stripes you
need to use your alternative main colour
for the first round and then alternate
between your main colour and this for the
next 4 rows.
Step 5
To create a hanging tab, weave to exit the
first Point Round bead in either direction
on the side of the triangle opposite the
rivoli. Using odd-count peyote stitch and
your highlight bead make a tab 7 beads
wide and 18 rows long. Fold the tab over
and zip the last row to the appropriate Step 5- If needed you can add extra
beads in the Point Round. rows to your hanging tab before
zipping it up
Step 6
using another highlight colour and
atatching it to the appropriate highlight
bead on the rivoli.
The same pendant simply worn reversed
can give you a whole new look
Double-Sided Crystal Donuts | triangles
Double-Sided Crystal Donuts

Why use one crystal when you can use two...
Reversible beadwork gives you twice as much jewellery to wear from just one project.
For this pendant you can play around with using different coloured crystals on each side
or experiment with patterns in your cylinder beads
Materials First side

To make one pendant Step 1
• 10g of size 11 cylinder beads Bead Steps 1-8 of ‘Basic Triangle’
• 1g size 15 seed beads from page 41.
• 2 x 14mm round rivoli crystals
Second side
I used Step 2
• Eggplant - DB1850 Bead Steps 1-8 of ‘Basic Triangle’
• Matte copper - DB340 from page 41 BUT at Step 4, as you bead
your Point Round, instead of adding new
Variations beads along the edge opposite the rivoli
There are lots of different variations zip into the appropriate beads on the first
possible just by altering the cylinder beads side of your work.
you use. Take a look at the other donut
proejcts for inspiration
Sizing
The pendant is 1¾ inches/ 4cm across
Techniques
• Bezelling Crystals, page 22
• Rivoli Donuts, page 40
In a nutshell!
•B ead a Rivoli Donut
• Bead a second Rivoli Donut but
zip it to the first as you bead the
Point Round
Step 2- As you bead your second piece you’ll zip it

directly to the first along the outside edge giving
you a reversible pendant that can be hung in many
different ways

Rotating your bangle gives you 3 different looks
as only 2 sides will show when worn
Tila Bangle | triangles
Tila Bangle
With so many new bead shapes having come onto the
market in recent years it’s been great fun seeing which
ones lend themselves to geometric work. This bangle is
one of the results
Tila beads with their 2 holes, flat sides and unusual shape can be used to add ‘Beads’ in the
extra interest and challenge to your work. Here they are used with size 10 instructions for this
cylinders to create a bangle with 3 different sides so it can be rotated as desired project always just
means your cylinder
Materials Step 3 beads. When you need
• 25g of size 10 cylinder beads *Herringbone Increase using 2 beads, to use Tilas this is
• A
pproximately 27 Tila beads in each of peyote stitch with 3 beads. Repeat from specified
3 colours (or all in 1 colour if desired) - * twice more to complete the round,
this is about 9-10g in total finishing by Stepping-Up to exit the first
bead added.
I used Step 3
• Matte nickel – DBM321 Step 4
*Bead a Herringbone Increase using 2
Sizing beads, peyote 1 bead into each of the next
The units on this bangle are about ¾ inch/ 2 spaces. Repeat from * twice more to
2cm deep and ¼ inch/ ¾ cm wide. The complete the round, finishing by Stepping-
bangle itself has a lot of stretch when Up to exit the first bead added.
finished so take that into account when
sizing Step 5
Point Round – *Peyote 1 bead in the first
Colour advice 2 spaces. Add 1 Tila in the next space
I used 3 different colours of Tilas so that I and 1 bead in the next. Repeat from * to Step 4
can have 3 different variations when worn complete the round, Stepping-Up to exit
the first bead added.
Techniques
• Beading a Triangle, page 26 top tip
If using 3 different Tilas be sure to pick
THE STEPS... up 1 of each colour in Step 5
Step 1
Pick up 9 beads and circle through the
first 3 to join into a circle. These beads
are 3 sets of 3 and each set will always be Step 1
treated as 1 bead - they will never be split
up.
Step 5
Step 2
* Bead a Herringbone Increase, adding
2 beads in the gap, threading through 3
beads to do this. Repeat from * twice more
making sure to step-Up at the end of the
round to exit the first bead added; this will
mean you splitting a pair of beads. Step 2
In a nutshell!
•B ead a triangle using Herirngbone
Increases with Tila beads added in
• Continue increasing and add
decreasing to create a beaded top tip
rope which is joined to form a For a lot of this project you will treat 3
bangle beads as just 1
Triangles | Tila Bangle
Step 6 Step 6
Peyote stitch 1 bead into every space (4
per side) threading into the first hole of the
Tilas as you go around (the is the hole that
you went through already).
top tip
You now need to pull tight to get your
work to ‘cup up’
Step 7
*Peyote 1 bead, thread into the second
hole of the Tila already there, peyote 1
Step 7 bead into the next 2 spaces. Repeat from
* to complete the round, finishing by
Stepping-Up to exit the first bead added.
Step 8
Peyote stitch 1 bead into every space
threading into the second hole of the Tilas
as you go around.
top tip
The diagrams will now just show the
beads in Step 5 onwards
Step 8 Step 9
*Peyote stitch 3 beads into the first space,
1 bead into the next. Bead a peyote stitch
decrease in the next space (this should
match up with your previous corner
increases) and 1 single bead in the next.
Repeat from * to finish the round and
Step-Up to exit the last of the 3 beads
added at the start.
Step 10
*Peyote stitch 1 bead into the first space,
bead a peyote stitch decrease in the next
space (this should match up with your
previous corner decrease) and 1 single
Step 9 bead in the next. Repeat from * to finish
the round and Step-Up to exit the first
bead added.
Step 10

Tila Bangle | triangles
Step 11
*Bead a peyote stitch decrease in the first Step 11
space (this should match up with your
previous corner decreases) and peyote 3
bead in the next. Repeat from * to finish
the round and Step-Up to exit the last of
the first 3 beads added.
Step 12
Weave all around your groups of 3 beads
to secure and then repeat from Step 2 to
bead the rest of the bangle. When you
reach the final repeat of Step 11, instead
of picking up new beads zip to the
groups of 3 beads added in Step 1.
For a completely different look, use 2 x 2mm

pearls each time you need to pick up a Tila
bead or thread into its second hole for the first
time. This bangle uses 25g of a mix of DBM331
and DBM1834 beads and 276 x 2mm pearls
(92 each of 3 different colours if desired)
Because the pearls don’t match up as close in size to the

cylinder beads as the Tilas do you need to ensure you don’t
pull too tight as you bead so that your work doesn’t distort.
I also found that it helped if I ‘ladder stitched in’ my cylinder

beads every time I added another 3 as demonstrated here

Cosmic Diamonds | triangles
Cosmic Diamonds
Turn triangles into diamonds with these out-of-
this-world beaded beads…
Basic triangles are great by themselves but unite them in a specific way and you have diamonds which
gives you scope for lots of new shapes and variations. These beaded beads are perfect for stringing onto
wire, thread or cord so feel free to experiment with colour and pattern for a unique look
Materials Step 4
Each bead uses approximately: Bead 1 more triangle using Steps 1-2 only. Step 2
• 1g size 11 cylinder beads - your A
beads Step 5
• 1g of size 15 cylinder beads – your B Bring your two triangles together and
beads match up any two sides. Using the thread
• 2 x 3-4mm firepolished beads or similar on your second triangle, zip it to the first
along one side using 6 of the beads added
I used in Step 3 and ladder-stitching the A beads
• Copper – DB40 which meet at each end together.
• Blue – DBS165
Sizing
Each bead is 1¼ inches/ 3cm long and 1
inch/ 2¼ cm wide
top tip
Techniques Leaving the corners empty in the Point
• Beading a Triangle, page 26 Round allows the extra space needed Step 3
• Zipping & Joining, page 20 for the firepolished beads
THE STEPS...
Step 1
Round 1. Pick up 3A and join into a circle
by threading through the first bead.
Step 2
Rounds 2-7. Using 2 x A in every corner
and 1 x B in every side space, bead a
triangle 7 beads along each side.
Step 3
Round 8 - Point Round. *Thread through
the first space without adding any beads.
Add 1 x B bead into each of the next
6 spaces. Repeat from * twice more to Step 5
complete the round.
In a nutshell!
•B egin with A beads and increase a triangle,
usings As for corners and Bs for sides until 7
beads a side.
• Bead a Point Round with nothing
in the corners
• Repeat to bead 3 more triangles (without the
Point Round)
• Zip the triangles together adding in the Point
Round and firepolished beads as needed
triangles | Cosmic Diamonds
top tip
Your work will be very ‘textural’ - that is - bumpy!
Don’t worry, this gives the beaded beads a unique look
Step 6
Weave around the other 2 sides of your
second triangle adding 1 x B bead into
each of the side spaces, but no beads
into the corner spaces as you did with the
first triangle in Step 3. You can finish the
threads.
Step 6
Step 7
Repeat Steps 1-2 to bead a third triangle.
Zip this to your first triangle along 2 sides
to secure and then add 1 x B bead into
each of the spaces on the third side for
your next triangle to join onto.
Step 8
Repeat Steps 1-2 to bead a 4th triangle.
Zip this to one side of your third triangle
and 2 sides of your second triangle to fill
in the last space. Make sure you ladder the
end A beads together to hold them close.
Step 7 Step 9
Weave through your work to add 1
firepolished bead into each of the side
spaces stringing them across the holes
made by missing beads out of the corner.
Step 8
2
Step 9
This diagram shows what you’re aiming to bead and how the
individual components will be joined

Cosmic Diamonds | triangles
“ Using 2 different sized beads is optional. You can make each beaded bead
in just one size of cylinder bead or different combinations of sizes - feel free to
experiment! However you may need to alter the size of firepolished
bead you use”
Variations
Using the same steps, and the same number of beads,
but a different mix of A and Bs can result in different
variations such as those shown in these charts. Note
that these charts show a segment beaded up to Step
4 whereas when making your beaded beads you only
need to make the first segment this big, the other 3 all
stop at Step 3.
You can also play around with adding extra or fewer
rounds for a different look

Cosmic Pyramids | triangles
Cosmic Pyramids
If you’re looking at these thinking they’re
not pyramids, you’re right, they’re Trigonal
Bipyramids... But, not wanting to scare, you I setted
on calling them Cosmic Pyramids!
Thse beaded beads are Cosmics Diamonds but taken one step further. The addition of
two more triangles makes them more 3-dimensional and bolder
Step 5
Materials THE STEPS... Bead a fifth triangle and, when beading
Each bead uses approximately: Step 1 the Point Round, zip it to the unattached
• 3½g of size 11 cylinder beads – your A Using your A beads bead a triangle with 8 edge of the second and the appropriate
beads beads a side. Add a Point Round but with edge of the fourth.
• 3 x 3-4mm firepolished beads or similar no beads in any corner.
Step 6
I used Step 2 Bead a sixth triangle and, when beading
• Orange – DB752 Bead a second triangle but, when adding the Point Round, zip it to the unattached
• Blue – DB266 the Point Round, zip it to one edge of the edge of the third and the appropriate
first triangle. edges of the fourth and fifth.
Techniques
• Zipping & Joining, page 20 Step 3 Step 7
• Beading a Triangle, page 26 Bead a third triangle but, when adding the Weave through your work to add 1
• Cosmic Diamonds, page 50 Point Round, zip it to one edge each of the firepolished bead into each of the 3 spaces
first and second triangles. where 4 triangles join, but not the top and
Sizing bottom spaces as these are used to string
Each bead is 1½ inches/ 4cm long and 1 Step 4 the beads.
inch/ 2½ cm wide Bead another triangle and, when beading
the Point Round, zip it to the so far
Variations unattached edge of the first.
You can play around with size by adding or
removing rounds
In a nutshell!
• Bead a triangle increase until you
have 8 beads a side
• Bead a Point Round with no
beads in the corners
• Bead 5 more triangles attaching
them as appropriate
• Weave through your work to add
3 firepolished beads

triangles | Cosmic Pyramids
These charts show how to bead the

different designs used on each bead

Cosmic Pyramids | triangles
3
1
5
4
This diagram shows what you’ll

bead and how the individual
components will be joined

Heroine Necklace | triangles
Heroine Necklace
This bold and dramatic necklace is actually 3
necklaces in one and with just a bit more beading you
can have an endlessly variable piece...
This eye-catching piece, so wonderfully modelled by the gorgeous, talented and lovely
Gabriella van Diepen, was the culmination of years of beading, pondering and undoing.
The idea of the central clasp changed many times over its life but I hope you agree the
end result was worth the effort
Materials I used Step 1

• 100g size 11 cylinder beads - your A • Light pewter – DB1851 Rounds 1-2 - Pick up 54 A beads and
beads thread through the first 14 to join into
• 1g size 15 cylinder or seed beads – your Techniques a circle and be in the correct place to
B beads • Zipping & Joining, page 20 continue later on. Leave a long thread tail
• 2 x 30mm flat back crystals or • Bezelling Crystals, page 22 to return to.
cabochons • Beading a Triangle, page 26
• 3 x small magnetic tube clasps or small Step 2
popper or snap fasteners (the clasp I BEADING THE CHAIN... Rounds 3-5 - Using 1 A bead in every space
used was 11mm x 5mm) add 3 rounds of even-count circular peyote.
• Optional - Double sided tape or glue Your first chain link
• Optional - cord These are beaded using just A beads and
begin with some plain rounds of even-
count peyote stitch to add central depth.
You will then increase one side until it is
In a nutshell! the appropriate size and then add a Point
• Begin with 54 beads joined into Round.
a circle and bead 3 more rounds Next you return to your tail thread and
of peyote. Increase as a triangle increase the second side to the same size.
Lastly you will zip the two increased
until 14 beads a side. Bead a Point
sections together at the outside edge to
Round. Return to tail thread and
enclose the triangle.
increase the other side. Zip edges Step 1
together. Repeat to make full
chain linking each triangle to the
previous as you go
• Bezel double-sided crystals.
Beginning on the 3rd round of A
beads from either edge bead 3
evenly spaced tabs 8 beads wide
and 31 rows long. Zip to other 3rd
round of A beads
• Beginning with 41 A beads
bead 6 rows of odd-count
peyote. Increase in the centre
space for 8 rows then add a
Point Round. Return to tail and
add 1 row of odd-count peyote
and repeat increasing rows then
zip the edges. Repeat 3 times
and add in clasps
The beaded centrepiece cleverly also acts as the

clasp for the entire necklace Geometric Beadwork Volume 2 by Jean Power | 59
triangles | Heroine Necklace
Step 3 Step 7 Reversible crystal section

Round 6 – *Using a Herringbone Increase The second side – Repeat Steps 3-5 using You begin by bezelling your crystals back
add 2A beads into the first space and then your tail thread to bead the second side. to back as described. Once your crystals
1 A bead into each of the next 8 spaces. are secure you will bead three ‘tabs’ evenly
Repeat from * twice more to complete the top tip spaced around the bezel through which
round. To finish ensure you step up to exit Make sure your increases math the clasp sections of the pendant will
the first bead you added this round (this those on the other side thread.
will be the first bead in the first pair you
added). Step 11
Step 8 Optional - Use the tape or glue to secure
Zip both sides of your beadwork together your two crystals back to back, this will
top tip
using the beads added in Step 6. Weave make them easier to hold as you bead.
The diagram for Step 3 only shows your threads away to finish.
the beads from Rounds 5 and 6 Step 12
Subsequent chain links Bezel your crystals back to back as detailed
Step 9 on Page 23.
Step 4 Pick up 54 A beads and thread through
Round 7– *Using a Herringbone Increase 14 to join into a circle, as you do so thread Step 13
add 2 A beads into the first space and then through the centre of your first beaded Using your thread, or a new one secured
1 A bead into each of the next 9 spaces. chain link. in, weave through your work to exit an
Repeat from * twice more to complete the A bead on the third round of A beads in
round. To finish ensure you step up to exit Step 10 from either edge of your bezel.
the first bead you added this round (this Repeat steps 2-8 to bead a second link. Step 14
will be the first bead in the first pair you Using peyote stich, and A beads, ‘stitch in
added). top tip
If you forget to join a new link as you
Step 5 bead it then simply join it on later
Rounds 8-10 – Repeat the principle of
with a new link which goes through
Steps 3 and 4 (adding 2 beads on top of
2 of them
2 and 1 bead everywhere else) for 3 more
rounds. You can also bead a link separately
and then join it on to the chain with
a third link. This means that only
top tip every other link is beaded attached to
Your last round will have 14 beads others which makes it easier
along each side
top tip
Step 6 Using a new thread any time you perform extra beading or add embellishment is
Round 11- Point Round. Peyote stitch 1 A always a good idea as, just in case you need to undo, your base structure will still be
bead into every space, including where you secure
have previously added 2 beads. Weave this
end of the thread into your work to finish
and return to your tail thread.
The pendant clasp...

The reversible nature of the centrepiece means
just by turning it around you have a whole new
60 | Geometric Beadwork Volume 2 by Jean Power necklace
Heroine Necklace | triangles
Step 14 Step 15
Step 19
Step 20
top tip peyote stitch. You will then increase along zip the two edges of your beadwork
The diagrams for Steps 14 and 15 one side before returning to the start and together using the beads added in Step
don’t show the full round of beads, beading the same increasing rows. Lastly 22.
just the part you are stitching the two edges are zipped together so your
work forms ‘L’ shaped tubes. You will make Step 25
3 of them and attach the magnetic clasps Repeat steps 19-24 to bead 2 more
the ditch’ to add 4 new beads. inside to use these as your clasps. sections. Stitch one end of a magnetic
clasp into each end of your angular
Step 15 Step 19 sections (or stitch on a popper fastener)
Change direction and, using A beads, and Rows 1-6 Pick up 41 A beads and, leaving and weave all your threads in to finish.
working into the 4 beads just added, bead a long tail thread, bead 4 rows of odd-
a row of peyote stitch using 4 beads. count peyote stitch so you end up with a
total of 6 rows.
Step 16 top tip
Continue peyote stitch with A beads and Step 20 Depending on the size of your clasp
rows using just 4 beads wide for another Row 7- Begin to bead your next row you may find it easier to stitch it into
29 rows until you have added a total of 31 adding 1 A into the first 10 spaces, 2 A
place BEFORE you zip up the edges.
rows. into the 11th space and 1 A into the next
If you find it hard then you can stitch
10 spaces.
Step 17 your clasp onto some sort of cord and
Bend this beaded tab over and zip its edge Step 21 stitch through that to hold it in place
to the appropriate beads in the third round Rows 8- 13 - Continue beading odd-count
of A beads in from the other edge of your peyote stitch for another 6 rows adding
bezel. 1 bead into each space except where you top tip
previously added 2. On these spaces you Some beaders have found that slight
Step 18 will add 2 beads. differences in their beads make for
Weave through your work to exit an A slight differences in the end result.
bead in the same third round in from Step 22 - Point Row So, before you stitch your magnets
the edge leaving 8 beads of this round Row 14- Bead 1 row with 1A bead in every in, bead all 3 sections and see how
between the tabs. Repeat steps 14-17 to space. they fit together. If needed you can
add 2 more tabs. Weave your thread in to
then add 1-2 rounds of brick stitch
secure and finish. Step 23
to each end of your angles which will
Row 15- Return to the start of your work
Clasp Angles and bead 1 row of odd-count peyote stitch extend them enough to deal with
These begin as sections of odd-count with 1 A bead in evey space. any size discrepancies.
Step 24
The beaded chain can be worn by itself by simply Rows 16- 22 - Repeat Steps 20-21. Then
linking the ends with ribbon or similar
Heroine Necklace Gallery
When I found out some beaders at Beads of Color
in Dundas, Canada, had worked together on
creating their own Heroine pieces I was excited to
see them - and they were worth the wait!
Each beader took the idea and ran with it creating
unique pieces that are as individual as they are
Cathy Bretfeld beaded her Heroine piece as

a stunning bracelet

This dramatic version of a Heroine Necklace
by Barb Linkert mixes colour and pizzaz for
a whole new look
Jackie Henderson added in a splash of red
for a clever and bold scheme
Lise Perry used a Druzy cabochon as her

centrepiece and expertly matched her
beads to compliment it
Laura Dowling’s Heroine piece uses ribbon
in its construction for a unique look
Heroine Variation | triangles
Heroine Variation
Changing up the crystal used in the centrepiece of
this clasp involved a bit of maths which in turn led to
the triangle changing into a diamond...
Whilst I love 27mm crystals the number of beads used to bezel them doesn’t easily divide
by 3, so even triangles are out of the question, and instead experimenting is needed to
use them in a geometric project
Materials for the pendant Step 2- the angles Step 6

• 14g size 11 cylinder beads - your A Rows 1-6 Pick up 81 A beads and, leaving Row 14- Point Row- Bead 1 row with 1A
beads a long tail thread, bead 4 rows of odd- bead in every space.
• 1g size 15 cylinder or seed beads – your count peyote stitch so you end up with a
B beads total of 6 rows. Step 7
• 1 x 27mm round crystal Row 15- Return to the start of your work
• 2 x small magnetic tube clasps or small Step 3 and bead 1 row of odd-count peyote stitch
popper or snap fasteners (the clasp I Row 7- Begin to bead your next row with 1 A bead in evey space.
used was 11mm x 5mm) adding 1 A into the first 20 spaces, 2 A
• Optional - cord into the 21st space and 1 A into the next Step 8
I used 20 spaces. Rows 16- 22 - Repeat Steps 3-5. Then zip
• Light pewter – DB1851 the two edges of your beadwork together
Step 4 using the beads added in Step
Techniques Rows 8 - 12- Continue beading odd-count 6.
• Zipping & Joining, page 20 peyote stitch for another 2 rows adding
• Bezelling Crystals, page 22 1 bead into each space except where you Step 9
• Beading a Triangle, page 26 previously added 2. On these spaces you Repeat Steps 2-8 to bead 1 more angle
will add 2 beads. section. Stitch one end of a magnetic clasp
Step 1- the bezel into each end of your angular sections and
Bezel your crystal as described. Weave Step 5 weave all your threads in to finish.
to exit any C bead in either of the edge Row 13- Add 1 bead into 10 spaces, 2
rounds. Bead a tab 10 beads wide and 16 beads into the next, 1 bead into 12 spaces,
rows long. Zip the edge to the appropriate 2 into the next, 1 bead into 12 spaces, 2
beads in the other edge round of C beads. into the next and 1 bead into the last 10 This centrepiece can be worn in
Bead another tab evenly spaced around the spaces. two different ways
bezel.
top tip
top tip The extra increases you bead
Depending on the size of your clasp in Step 5 distort your work so
you may find it easier to stitch it into be sure to let it happen and
place BEFORE you zip up the edges. the extra angles appear
If you find it hard then you can stitch
your clasp onto some sort of cord and
stitch through that to hold it in place
In a nutshell!
• Bezel a 27mm crystal. Add 2 tabs
10 beads wide and 16 rows long
• Bead Steps 19-25 of ‘Clasp
Angles’ from the original
Heroine Centrepiece to make
2 angles but begin with 81
beads, add your first increase
after 20 single beads and put
in two extra increases in your
last increasing rows
Suspension Bangle | triangles
Suspension Bangle
Whilst I love pure, unadultered geometric
beadwork it’s always fun to see how you can
mix things up... ‘Beads’ in the
instructions for this
Like many other projects in this book this project was a work in progress project always just
for many years. My original attempts looked the same but lacked the means your cylinder
necessary structure to make them more wearable. Many sleepless nights beads. When you need
and much experimentation led to the special steps shown here to use the feature
beads this is specified
Materials
• Approximately 300-360 x 3mm THE STEPS...
firepolished beads This bangle is made up of individual
• 25g size 10 cylinder beads components which are linked by the
feature beads suspended between them Step 1
I used
• Cream – DBM203 Your first component
• Grey - DBM321 Step 1
• Turquoise - Mix of DBM166 and Round 1 - Begin with 9 beads. Join them
DBM166 into a circle by circling through the first 3.
Leave a long enough tail to return to later
Techniques and finish the second side.
top tip
Sizing Step 2
Weaving through 3 beads to begin
The units on this bangle are about ¾ inch/
2cm deep and ¼ inch/ ¾ cm wide. The ensures your tail thread is in exactly
bangle itself has a lot of stretch when the right place for you to continue
finished so take that into account when with it later
sizing
Step 2
top tip
Round 2 - *Add a herringbone increase
Some of the steps may seem crazy into the gap between the bead you’re Step 3
and extra work but I promise you exiting and the next one and then peyote
there’s method in my madness and stitch a single bead. Repeat from * twice
following them will give you the more to complete the round ensuring you
required result Step-Up at the end.
Step 3
Round 3 - *Add a herringbone increase
In a nutshell! into the gap between the bead you’re
exiting and the next one and then peyote
• Beginning with 9 beads make
stitch 2 single beads. Repeat from * twice
a triangle using the set pattern
more to complete the round, ensuring
until it has 5 beads along a side you Step-Up at the end. Step 4
• Bead a Point Round and weave
through it again Step 4
• Return to the tail and, using a Round 4 - *Add a herringbone increase
set pattern, increase as before into the gap between the bead you’re
and add a Point Round and once exiting and the next one and then peyote
again weave all around stitch 3 single beads. Repeat from * twice
• Repeat to make a second more to complete the round, ensuring
component and suspend feature you Step-Up at the end.
beads between them

triangles | Suspension Bangle
Step 5
Step 5 Point Round - Bead a round with just 1
bead in every space including splitting
those added as pairs in the last round.
Step 6
Weave all round the last round, as though
you were adding it again.
top tip
This extra weaving is essential to
stop your feature beads from pulling
the beads in the last rounds out and
Step 7
making gaps
Step 7
Return to your tail thread. You will now
repeat the equivalent of Step 2 BUT your
single peyote beads are all ready there - it
is just those you add with the herringbone
increase which are needed. Basically you
will be weaving through beads just to add
2 beads into each of the 3 corner spaces.
The pattern of this round is:
*Add 2 beads, ‘fake’ add a single bead.
Repeat from * twice more for the round.
top tip
The single beads which you use for
this round have a green star on them
in the instructions. As you continue
to bead, and bead into them in
subsequent rounds these will pull out
and sit as part of this round
top tip
You MUST ensure you Step-Up at the
end of this round. It is easy to get
confused but you absolutely must
finish by exiting the first bead of the
first pair you added
Step 8
Continue beading by repeating Steps 3-6
on this side including weaving all around
as though adding the final round again to
secure the beads.
Step 9
Repeat Steps 1-8 to bead another
component.

Suspension Bangle | triangles
Step 11 Step 12
Step 13
top tip
I find it easier to begin connecting at
a corner so I don’t accidentally match
up incorrect side beads and cause my
work to twist
top tip
To calculate how many feature beads
you will need to join to components it
is always 3 times however many beads
a side you increased your original
Joining components Step 13 triangle to
You will now join your components by Weave all around the same thread path so
suspending feature beads between two of you go through your feature bead a total
them, adding a bead to every Point Round of 4 times. Then weave to exit the next Step 15
bead in your components. edge bead along on your first component. Continue beading new components and
joining them onto previous ones as you
top tip Step 14 go, joining the last one to the first you
When adding these feature beads Repeat adding feature beads until you have beaded to finish.
added one to every Point Round bead.
you will also be circling through
the cylinder beads so as you exit
the ‘bottom’ of a bead on one
component you’ll enter the ‘bottom’
of the bead in the other and vice
versa
top tip
Never simply thread from one
component to another - always
thread through a feature bead so as
to hide your thread
Step 10
Once you have beaded two components
bring them together matching up the
beads along a side.
Step 11
Exiting one of your edge beads pick up a
feature bead and circle into the appropriate
bead on the other component.
Step 12
Exiting your second component, enter the
first one circling back into the original bead
you were exiting.
Bugle Suspension | triangles
Bugle Suspensions
If you like using feature beads then why not
elongate the spaces between components
and give it finished ends
Having made 4 variations of my Geometric Suspensions pieces I thought I could
put the series to rest. But as soon as I laid eyes on these vintage bugle beads on
a trip to Canada I knew I had to bead just one more...
Materials THE STEPS...

• 9g of 7-8mm bugle beads Step 1
• 9g of size 10 cylinder beads Repeat Steps 1-3 and 5-15 of ‘Suspensions
• One ball-end bangle where one end Bangle’ to create a piece of beadwork
unscrews almost as long as desired but using bugle
beads instead of fire-polished beads and
Variations with only 4 beads per component side
If you prefer you can bead this as a full before the Point Round.
bangle with the ends joined to each other
as in the original Step 2
Bead two regular triangles, beginning with
I used 3 beads, until 4 beads a side. Add Point
A mix of: Rounds. Weave all around the last round to
• Matte red – DBM362 secure.
• Red - DBM216
Step 3
Techniques used Using bugle beads suspend one of your
• Beading a Triangle, page 26 triangles at each end of your bangle using
• Suspension Bangle, page 70 bugle beads to finish.
In a nutshell!
• Bead a Suspensions component
until 4 beads a side, add a Point
Round and bead the other half of
the component
•Join components with bugle
beads
• Bead 2 plain triangles until
4 beads a side and add Point
Rounds
• Join the new triangles one to each
end to finish the bracelet
Undulating Suspensions | triangles
Undulating Suspensions
Playing with rounds in your component
triangles can lead to lots of extra fun...
So far we’ve just looked at pieces where the components are all exactly the
same but mixing it up is just a matter of less or extra increasing
Materials
• 20g of size 11 cylinder beads THE STEPS...
• Approximately 500 x 2mm pearls or This bracelet uses the same
similar basic components as the original
Suspension Bangle but some of
Variations them are taller than others
For a different look you can alternate
shorter points with larger ones for a more Step 1
regimented feel or play around with Repeat Steps 1-15 of ‘Suspension Bangle’
graduating the sizes of your pieces to begin a piece of beadwork with your
triangles as large as desired ( I made mine 6
I used beads a side before the Point Round).
• Cream – DB203
Step 2
Techniques used On a random component bead one side
• Beading a Triangle, page 26 until it is larger (I beaded mine until 8
• Suspension Bangle, page 70 beads a side). Bead the Point Round and
attach the component as usual. I did
this on 8 of my components for 4 larger
sections randomly spread over my bangle.
top tip
Remember that if you increase the
side of one component you also need
to do the same on the component
it will join to and and make sure to
match them up when joining... learn
from my mistakes!
In a nutshell!
• Bead suspensions components
until 6 beads a side and join as
usual
• Bead 8 components with 8 beads
a side, just on one side, and join
them in randomly over your
bangle
Squares
The addition of one extra side leads to

exciting new ideas…
squares | Distorted Squares
Distorted Squares
In Volume 1 I introduced the idea of a ‘Distorted
Square’ and this chapter introduces many more
exciting possibilites based in its unusual shape...
When I first discovered Distorted Squares I was baffled as to what to do with them but after lots of
experimenting I came up with one of my best known projects; my Geometric Stars. Ever since I have been on a
personal quest to see just how different ways I can use that tricky little component and included here are some
of my favourites
Step 1 BEADING... JOINING..

Step 6
Increasing Bead the first of your Distorted Squares,
Step 1 including the Point Round.
Join 4 beads into a circle and tie with a knot
to hold them extra tight right from the start. Step 7
Step 2 Thread through the next bead along to be in Bead a second Distorted Square, without a
the correct place to continue. Point Round.
top tip Step 8

Tying a knot right at the start of your Zip the second square to the first.
Begin by picking up 1 corner bead.
work holds your square too tight and
Ensure this is one of the corners which will
helps it to distort, the opposite of what
sit at the front or back of the shape you’re
Step 3
you usually want with your beadwork making, not at the outside corner points.
Weave between your squares, but
instead of adding new beads, use the
Step 2- optional beads in the Point Round of your first piece
Add 1 bead between each of those in (the yellow beads). Zip this along one side,
Round 1. around one corner and along the next side.
Add a new bead for the third corner
Step 3 and then the rest of the Point Round of
Using a Herringbone Increase, add 2 beads your second piece until you are back at the
Step 4 into each space. This forms the corners. start again (the blue beads).
Make sure at the end of the round you
Step-Up to exit the first bead of the first Step 9
pair you added. Bead the third square and join it to the
second as you joined the first two. Note
Step 4 that this time the beads you will use to zip
Using a Herringbone Increase, add 2 beads are the blues ones and the new beads are
into each corner and 1 bead in every side the yellow ones.
space.
Step 10
Step 5 Continue joining pieces until you are ready
Repeat Step 4 for as long as you desire to add your last one. This one only needs 2
(noting that you have 1 extra side space new beads added - these sit in the centre
top tip added per side per round), then add a front and back spots - all other beads are
As you bead the square make sure Point Round with 1 bead in every space. already there and shared.
you resist all temptation to push it
Step 13
flat. The tighter you pull it, and the
You may want to then weave through all
more you let it distort, the tighter the of the centre point beads on the front and
tension in your finished piece back.

Distorted Squares | squares
Joining Principles
• Your first piece always has the Point Round added (this is for the next
piece to join onto)
• Your second piece is zipped to the first along two sides and then has
its Point Round beads added on the last two sides. (This is to give your
Step 8 third piece the beads to join onto)
• Your third and subsequent pieces are joined as the second, except
for the final piece, which joins onto the last piece added and the
first piece and only needs 2 new beads - in the centre front and back
corners
top tip
You always need to make sure you fill in the last 2 sides of
your square so that your next piece has the right beads to zip
onto
Step 9
Corners
When joining two pieces together use the beads in the Point
Round of one piece as though they were new beads and
‘add’ them to the second piece
The main thing you need to be aware of is adding extra
beads in the correct places
When zipping to make Stars you ALWAYS need to add new
beads in the corners which sit at the centre front or back of
the piece
However, for the corners which sit on the outside points, if
there is a corner bead already there then you ‘share’ it rather
than adding a new one

Dragon Scale Bracelet | squares
Dragon Scale Necklace Bracelet

Layer upon layer of Distorted Squares make for an
eye-catching piece
Over the last year I have beaded over 70 projects but I have to admit that this one defeated me.
Spread over at least 18 months the large amount of beading required before it grows in length meant
my plan had to change...and what was meant to be a necklace became a bracelet
Materials Step 2 top tip

• 58g of Size 10 cylinder beads - Beginning by adding 2 beads into each of If you want to play around with colour
I used half in my main colour and the the 4 spaces bead a Distorted Square until and pattern consider the length
rest divided equally between 5 different 8 beads a side (this means not beading
needed. I used a repeat of 5 different
colours of highlight bead Step 2, adding single beads). Add a Point
highlight colours which would have
• Small magnetic clasp Round.
worked over the length of a necklace,
Variations Step 3 but was wrong for a bracelet.
• Why not make your squares bigger, Weave back to exit any of the 4 beads you The colour pattern meant I had to
add in stripes, play with different sized added in Step 1. From these beads bead a increase, or decrease, the length in
beads... peyote rope using just 1 bead in each space sections of 10 squares which meant
(4 beads per round) for 6 rounds. my choice of lengths was very limited.
Colours Had it been a random pattern, or just
• I alternated between my main colour Step 4 a repeat of two colours, it would have
and a highlight colour for each Repeat from Step 2 onwards until your been a lot easier to adjust the length
Distorted Square and the small section bracelet is as long as desired, finishing with
by small amounts
of rope beaded from it, only changing beading a Distorted Square.
colour when I returned to my repeat of
Step 2 Step 5
Stitch one end of a magnetic clasp to the
I used centre of each of the squares at the ends
• Grey - Mix of DBM307 and DBM321 of the piece.
• Turquoise - DBM79
• Dark green - DBM705
• Light blue - DBM905
• Darker blue - DBM714
• Lime green - DBM712
Techniques
• Distorted Squares, page 80
THE STEPS...
Step 1
Pick up 4 beads and circle through the first
to join into a circle
In a nutshell!
• Increase a Distorted Square
until 8 beads a side. Add a Point
Round
• Weave to the start of the square
and bead a rope 6 rounds long
and just 4 beads a round I used a magnetic clasp on my
• Repeat and then add a clasp to bracelet but you can use your
favourite for a different look
finish
This dramatic necklace by
Cynthia Kemner & Dana Steen
Witker shows just what is possible
with some imagination, determination
and beading skills...
Comprised of 56 Distorted Squares, which
graduate in both size and colour, and featuring
a beautiful dichroic glass focal by Andrea Olsen, this
show-stopping necklace takes the basic component and
uses it to striking effect
Pagoda Bail | squares
Pagoda Bail
Combine two Distorted Squares for an unusual bail
Volume 1 contained a great bail using just one Distorted Square but this
project takes it one step further for a more unique look
Materials
To make one bail This pendant is reversible!
• 5g of Size 11 cylinder beads
• 2 x 30mm flatback crystals or similar
Techniques
THE STEPS...
Increasing section
Step 1
Bezel your crystals using the colours of your
choice
Step 2
Bead a Distorted Square up to 10 beads a
side and add a Point Round
Step 3
Bead a second Distorted Sqare up to 10
beads a side and attach it to the first. Finish
beading the Point Round.
Step 4
Stitch the bail to the beads in your bezel to
secure.
In a nutshell!
• Bezel two crystals back to back
• Increase a Distorted Square until
10 beads a side
• Bead a Point Round
• Bead a second matching
component and attach it to the
first
The stunning eye centrepiece is
made by John Vidakovic (www.etsy.
com/shop/artistJP)

Tila Star | squares
Tila Star
Mix in a different shaped bead for
a reversible star with an integral
hanging hole
Just to prove even simple stars are endlessly variable here’s one that
not only has two different faces to show off two different colours but
also has a hanging hole built right in
Step 3 ‘Beads’ in the

Materials *Using a Herringbone Increase add 2 beads instructions for this
To make one star between the 2 beads where you are and project always just
• 5g of Size 10 cylinder beads then thread through 2 more (so 3 in total) means your cylinder
• 13 Tila beads, 5 in each of two to the next corner space. Repeat from * beads. When you need
different colours plus 3 in the colour three more times and finish by Stepping-Up to use Tilas this is
you want in the spaces that sit betwen through the first bead added. specified
the points of the star
Step 4
I used *Using a Herringbone Increase add 2 beads
• Gold - DBM331 and then using peyote stitch add 3 beads
in the next space. Repeat from * three
Techniques more times and finish by Stepping-Up
through the first bead added.
• Distorted Square, page 80
THE STEPS... Step 1 Step 2
First component
Step 1
Pick up 1 bead, 1 Tila (which you want to
sit between the points of the star) and 1
bead. Missing the last bead, thread back
through the Tila and circle through the
first bead added.
Step 2
Pick up 5 beads and thread into the 2nd
bead added. Pick up 5 beads and thread
into the first bead added and the next one
along to be ready to continue.
Step 3 Step 4
In a nutshell!
• Bead a Distorted Square with
Tila beads in it
• Bead a second Distorted Square
and join it to the first as you are
doing so
•Continue beading and adding
components until you have 5
joined to make your Star
top tip
For a lot of this project you will treat 3
beads as a single one
squares | Tila Star
Step 5
Step 6
Step 8
Step 7
Step 5 Step 6
*Using a Herringbone Increase add 2 beads *Using a Herringbone Increase add 2 beads
and then, using peyote stitch, add 1 bead and then, using peyote stitch, add 1 bead
into each of the next two spaces. Repeat into the next space, 3 beads into the next
from * three more times and finish by and a single bead into the next. Repeat
Stepping-Up through the first bead added. from * three more times and finish by
Stepping-Up through the first bead added.
Step 7
*Using a Herringbone Increase add 2 beads
and then, using peyote stitch, add 1 bead
into each of the next four spaces. Repeat
from * three more times and finish by
Stepping-Up through the first bead added.
Step 8
*Using a Herringbone Increase add 2 beads
and then, using peyote stitch, add 1 bead
into the two spaces. Add a Tila bead into
the next space, and then 1 bead into the
next two spaces. Repeat from * three more
times and finish by Stepping-Up through
the first bead added. Make sure you add 1
of one colour Tila, 2 of the next and then 1
of the first.
This star is reversible and has an Step 9

integral stringing hole built in Point Round. Add 1 bead into every space
threading into the first hole of each Tila to
do this.
Tila Star | squares
Step 9
Component 2
Step 10
Repeat Steps 1-7 to begin a new
component.
Step 11
Next bead a repeat of Step 8 but don’t pick
up a new Tila bead in 2 spaces, instead
thread into the 2nd hole of 2 of the Tilas
already there (1 of each colour) to join
this component to the first. Make sure to
match up your different Tilas and to fill in
the rest of all the other beads.
Step 12
Zip the 2nd component to the first along 2
sides and then fill in the Point Round beads
along the last 2 sides.
Component 3
Step 13
Repeat Steps 10-12 to bead a 3rd
component attached to the 2nd along 2
sides and sharing 2 Tila beads.
Step 11
Component 4
Step 14
Pick up 12 beads and thread through the
first 3 to join into a circle.
top tip
These 12 beads sit so that there are 3
on each of the 4 sides of your square
and each group of 3 will be treated as
1 single bead from now on
Step 15
Repeat Steps 3-7 to bead this component
and then follow the same pattern of
attaching as you did for components 2 and
3.
Component 5
Step 16
Bead as for component 4 and zip it
between components 1 and 4 to finish.
Step 12

The Maths...
This final section contains

exciting rewards and new
treasures for all those who dare
to enter (the only qualification is
knowing your two or four times
tables…)
The MATHS | The Basic Maths
The Basic Maths

If you have beaded from Geometric Beadwork
Volume 1 then I have to break the news to you
that you may have already used this maths
without knowing...
The basic premise of the maths, which is fortunately very easy to master, applies whether
you’re using it to bead petals, stitch a Power Increase or master a Rick-Rack from Volume 1. All
it takes is your 4 times tables...
The Basic Sums

In geometric beadwork any time you want
to pick up a strand or length of beads,
whether its to bead an integral hole in a
Suspensions Pendant or petals on a Zinnia,
you will always pick up a number of beads
that’s a multiple of 4, plus 2.
How many times you multiply 4 can either

be selected at random by you or, if you’re
doing something that requires accuracy
(such as seamlessly beading the other side
of a hole) there is a reason as to how many
times you’ll multiply 4.
Some examples of quanties you might pick

up are:
• 6 beads (1 x 4 + 2)
• 10 beads (2 x 4 + 2) Multiple layers of petals give you the
• 14 beads (3 x 4 + 2) opportunity to use the Basic Maths twice!
• 18 beads (4 x 4 + 2)
and so on...
RANDOM OR REGIMENTED...
Random
If you’re beading a petal and want to play with sizing you get to choose the number of times you
multiply 4.
Regimented
If sizing is an issue (such as with the Rick-Racks in Volume 1) or you are trying to be exact and accurate
(a perfect finish to an integral hole for example) then you need to base your sums on a reason.
• If beading a Rick-Rack you can, in principle, pick up a number of beads that’s any amount times 4
plus 2, but the sizing in Volume 1 is all calculated on picking up 22 beads (5 x 4 + 2)
• If finishing an integral hole you need to pick up a multiple of 4 for every round you didn’t add beads
into the corner. (A) So your sum is A x 4 + 2 and the result is the number of beads you need to pick
up and then bead into to finish

Both the Suspensions and Compass Rose
Pendants use the Basic Maths to calculate
how many beads to pick up to finish the
intregral stringing holes
Each Zinnia or Lotus in this book has

its petals begin using the Basic Maths
formula to determine how many beads
to pick up.
For the Zinnia it is 18 beads (4 x 4 + 2)

For the Lotus is 30 beads (7 x 4 + 2)

the maths | Power Increasing
Power Increasing
Power increasing is related to regular increasing
just as Power walking is related to regular
walking...
Think of it as basically the same but quicker and looking a little crazier...
Flavours of Power Increasing

This magical and crazy method of increasing comes in two different flavours:
Integral (beaded as part of a round) and Separate (beaded by itself)
Which one you use is up to you (though I have laid out in the projects that use
them which one to use) as they both perform the same function. The main
difference is when they’re beaded and the maths involved
,
Integral Increasing Some examples of quanties you can pick This diagram shows a quadruple Integral Increase
This is beaded as part of a round and the up are: (picking up 10 beads, each with a dot on in the
diagram) in a Distorted Square
rest of the round is beaded as normal. • 6 beads (double increase = 2 x 2 + 2)
• 8 beads (triple increase = 3 x 2 + 2)
At the corner (or space) you want to • 10 beads (quadruple increase = 4 x 2 + 2)
increase in you need to pick up a number • 12 beads (quintuple increase = 5 x 2 + 2)
of beads that’s a multiple of 2 plus 2.
You then need to bead back along the new
The first amount depends on how many beads, to finish the increase.
increases you want to do (i.e. double, Do this by changing direction of beading
triple, quadruple etc) and the second are and ignore the last 2 beads you picked up.
the beads you will begin the turn with.
Then peyote stitch into the strand of beads
you added until back to the body of your
work and continue beading as needed
top tip
You’ll now find that your Step-Up is in
the centre of a round. If you find this
hard to see, or keep track of, you can
weave through your work to begin at
a corner and keep your Step-Up here.
The project instructions in this book
will tell you whether you need to do
this or not

Power Increasing | the maths
Separate Increasing
This is beaded separately and not Both of these diagrams show a triple Separate
part of a round. As a result the maths Increase (picking up 7 beads, all with dots on in
the diagram) in a Distorted Square
are different and you need to do
some weaving to get back in place to
continue.
At the corner (or space) you want

to increase in you need to pick up a
number of beads that’s a multiple of 2
plus 1.
The first amount depends on how

many increases you want to do (i.e.
double, triple, quadruple etc) and the
last bead is the one you will begin the
turn with.
Some examples of quantities you can

pick up are:
• 5 beads (double increase = 2 x 2 + 1)
• 7 beads (triple increase = 3 x 2 + 1)
• 9 beads (quadruple increase = 4 x 2
+ 1)
• 11 beads (quintuple increase = 5 x 2
+ 1) This diagram shows the weaving ending at the second new bead
added (the first ‘sticking-out’ or ‘higher’ bead)
As you’re not adding any other beads
this round you then need to weave all
the way around your work (making
sure to weave through beads to hide
your thread) finishing by either exiting
the 2nd bead added or the second-
to-last bead you added in which case
you’ll now be in a corner spot and can
continue beading as desired.
This diagram shows the weaving ending at the

second-to-last bead added which brings you out at
a corner

the maths | Larger Holes
Larger Holes
If you want large holes in the centre of your work
then some maths is needed...
The maths
Fortunately for this the basic maths is very
simple and is based on how many beads
you want along the side of the central hole
in your shape and how many sides the
shape has.
You formula for the number of beads to

pick up is:
2 beads for every space you want along
each side of the inner edge of your work
plus 1 bead for the corner.
Multiply this by the number of sides your
shape has.
Some examples of quantities you might

pick up and the shape you’re beading are:
• A triangle with 3 beads peyote stitched
along a side = 21 beads (3 x 2 +1 = 7 a
This diagram shows a triangle begun with side. 7 x 3 = 21 beads in total)
33 beads picked up (the copper beads). This • A triangle with 17 beads peyote stitched
results in 5 stitches a side (5 x 2 + 1 = 11
along a side = 105 beads (17 x 2 +1= 35
beads a side. 11 x 3 = 33)
• A triangle with 9 beads peyote stitched
• A square with 8 beads peyote stitched
top tip
Make sure as you continue beading
that you begin the next round by
adding your Herringbone Increases into
the right spaces!
This diagram shows a triangle begun with

15 beads picked up (the copper beads). This
results in 2 stitches a side (2 x 2 + 1 = 5

Getting Uneven | The maths
Getting Uneven
Playing with the central hole results in new
uneven shapes..
Getting Uneven and Complicated
An added complication to beginning your

work with a central hole happens if you
don’t want your shape to be even i.e. you
want it to have sides of different lengths.
In this instance you don’t multiply the

beads by the number of sides. Instead you
calculate the beads needed for each side
(still 2 beads for every space you want plus
1 bead) and then add up the totals for the
sides to give you the final total
This diagram shows a triangle that has 1 side of 3 stitches and 2

sides of 8 stitches. The number of beads calculated was 3 x 2 + 1 = 7
for the shorter side and 8 x 2 + 1 = 17 for the longer sides. This gave
a total of 7 + 17 + 17 = 41. So 41 beads were picked up to begin
This diagram shows a triangle that has 1 side of 3 stitches and 2 sides
of 5 stitches. The number of beads calculated was 3 x 2 + 1 = 7 for
the shorter side and 5 x 2 + 1 = 11 for the longer sides. This gave a
total of 7 + 11 + 11 = 29 So 29 beads were picked up to begin

Compass Rose Pendant | The maths
Compass Rose Pendant

The magic of the maths combines in
this eye-catching project
Mixing maths results in elongation in one spot and an integral hole
in another making for a dramatic piece based on an age-old motif...
Basic Component
Materials Step 1
• 12½g of size 10 cylinder beads Round 1. Pick up 4 beads and knot into a
circle.
I used
• Nickel – DBM38022 Step 2
• Blue – DBM165 Rounds 2-3. Bead 2 rounds of increasing as
in a regular Distorted Square making sure
Colour and pattern NOT to bead Step 2 of a Distorted Square
I mixed my two colours of bead to i.e. the round with 1 bead in every space. Step 3
combine matte and shiny but you could
also play around with making the piece Step 3
reversible or adding in stripes Round 4. Begin this round with a
quadruple Integral Power Increase (picking
Size and shape up 4 x 2 + 2 beads for a total of 10). Bead
The pendant is 3¼ inches/ 8cm across the rest of the round as usual.
Using them
The pendants have an integral stringing
hole built into them
Techniques Step 2
• The Basic Maths, page 94
• Power Increasing, page 94
THE STEPS...
Your pendant is made up of 8 Joining just 4 Basic Components to
components. Six of them are ‘Basic the 2 Hole Components gives you
a pendant with a whole new look
Components’ and 2 are ‘Hole
Components’. These are zipped together
as you go, always adding a corner bead in
the front and back corners as you do so.
In a nutshell!
•B ead and unite 6 Basic
Components which have one
elongated side
• Bead a Hole Component with an
integral hole - attach
• Bead a final Hole Component
and attach it to complete the
pendant
Due to the Power Increasing your pendant will be

naturally textured with a twist to it
the maths | Compass Rose Pendant
Step 4
Step 5
Step 9
Step 8
STEP 4 HOLE COMPONENTs Step 9

Rounds 5-7. Bead 3 more increasing rounds STEP 7 Round 5. Peyote stitch 1 bead into the first
as usual. Rounds 1-3. Begin as a Basic Component, 2 spaces and then no beads in the
ending when you have 3 beads a side. corner space (thread through it as though
STEP 5 beading peyote stitch but no beads on
Round 8. Bead a Point Round with 1 bead Step 8 your thread). Bead the rest of the round as
in every space to finish the component. Round 4. Begin this round with a double normal.
Integral Power Increase (picking up 2 x 2 +
STEP 6 2 beads for a total of 6). Bead the rest of
Bead 5 more Basic Components and zip the round as usual.
them to each other as you go making sure
to match up the ‘long’ and ‘short’ points.

Compass Rose Pendant | THE MATHS
Step 10 Step 11
Round 6. Peyote stitch 1 bead into the first
space and then no beads in the corner
space. Weave around to the next available
space and then bead the rest of the round
as normal.
Step 11
Round 7. Pick up 18 beads to ‘fill the hole’
(4 x 4 for the 4 rounds missed (2 missed
and the shorter Power Increase) + 2 = 18).
Join the strand of beads into the next bead
on the ‘other side of the hole’ and bead
the rest of the round as normal.
Step 12
Round 8. Point Round. The ‘shorter’ part
of your component needs to be zipped to
a previously united component and the
longer side needs its Point Round beads
added. As you add these beads, when you
reach the long strand of beads added to
finish the hole, you will peyote stitch single
beads into the first 4 spaces and then
squeeze a single bead between the next to
replicate adding a single bead on top of a
Herringbone Increase. Then peyote stitch 1
single bead into the next 4 spaces. The rest
of the round is as normal.
Step 13
The final component. Repeat Steps 7-11 to Step 12- note that
begin your last Hole Component. not all of the Point
Round beads shown
in this diagram will
Step 14 need to be added.
Zip your last component into place. Some are already
in place on already
united components
Step 10

the maths | Mix-It-Up Necklace
Mix-It-Up Necklace | THE MATHs
Mix-It-Up Necklace
Mixing colours, shapes and quantities
gives you many necklaces in one...
Using all the principles of The Maths to create different shapes
means you can play endlessly with ideas..
Materials THE STEPS... Step 1

• 57g of size 11 cylinder beads (I used This project is formed of 27 tube beaded
30g in my main colour (A beads) and beads and 54 shaped beaded beads
3g each of my highlight colours (B formed of 6 different styles in 9 different
beads) colours
I used Tube Beaded Bead

Main bead Step 1
• Copper – DB40 Using your main colour bead a piece 10
Highlight beads beads wide and 16 rows long. Zip the
• Dark matte blue – DB756 first and last rows together. Repeat for 27
• Turquoise - DB166 beaded beads.
• Sea teal - DB264
• Matte light blue - DB862
• Light blue - DB266
• Grey lustre - DB107
• Dark blue - DB1763
• Grey - DB48
• Red - DB753
Techniques
• Power Increasing, page 96
• Larger hole, page 98
• Getting uneven, page 99
top tip
When B beads are mentioned it means
a highlight bead. Choose any one to
begin with as you will end up using
them all
In a nutshell!
•B ead 27 beaded beads in A
beads using 16 rows of peyote
stitch 10 beads wide
• Bead 54 beaded beads using a
mix of Basic Math techniques
and add tabs to each
The beaded beads you will make. Clockwise from top left: Plain
Triangle; Elongated with Hole (side tab); Large Hole; Elongated with
Hole (top tab); Very Elongated; Elongated

Step 2 Step 7
Step 3
Beading the tab Plain triangle beaded bead elongated beaded bead
I add the tab using A beads and try and Step 3 Step 6
position it centrally along the appropriate Pick up 3 B beads and join into a circle. Pick up 3 B beads and join into a circle.
side of the piece, but don’t worry too much Increase the triangle until 5 beads a side. Bead 1 round of a triangle increase.
about that as this is a mix-it-up necklace! Swap to your A beads and add 2 rounds.
Step 7
Step 2 Step 4 Begin the next round with picking up 5
Using A beads bead a piece of odd-count Using A beads add a tab to any side of the beads for a double Separate Power Increase
peyote stitch 5 beads wide and 16 rows triangle. (2 x 2 + 1 = 5). Bead back down the new
long. Zip the two edge rows together to beads to add 1 new bead and weave all
finish. Step 5 around to exit the 4th bead just added.
Repeat Steps 3-4 using the other 8 B
beads. Step 8
One of the many ways this necklace can be worn is Continue increasing the triangle as normal
by threading on just the beaded beads in one colour until there are 8 beads along each long
side.
Step 9
Add 2 increasing rounds, the Point Round
and the tab in A beads.
Step 10
beads.
large hole beaded bead

Step 11
Pick up 21 A beads - this gives you a
central hole with 3 stitches on each side. (3
x 2 + 1 = 7, 7 x 3 = 21) Join into a circle by
threading through the first bead.
Step 12
Using B beads *add 1 Herringbone Increase
between the next 2 beads and peyote
stitch 1 B bead into each of the next 3
spaces. Repeat from * twice more to finish
the round ensuring you Step-Up at the
end.
Step 13
Continue beading using B beads and
increasing the triangle until there are 10
beads along a side. .
Step 12
Wearing all the different shapes just in one colour
gives you a co-ordinated look. This one uses just 5
of the shapes to give you a central point
Step 14
Add a tab using A beads.
Step 15
beads.
Very Elongated beaded bead

Step 16
Pick up 3 B beads and join into a circle.
Add 1 round of increasing.
Step 17
Using 11 B beads add a quintuple Separate
Power Increase (5 x 2 + 1 = 11). Bead back
down the new beads to add 4 new beads
and weave all around to exit the 10th bead
just added.
Step 18
Using B beads add 1 more round of
triangular increasing.
Step 19
Using A beads add a tab.
Step 20
beads.
Step 17
Step 22
Elongated with hole beaded bead top tip
This beaded bead is made twice with the 39 A beads gives you two sides of 8
tab added into two different places to give
stitches wide and 1 side of 2 stitches
you two different looks.
wide.
Step 21 8 x 2 + 1 = 17
Pick up 39 A beads and thread through the 2x2+1=5
first bead to join into a circle. 17 + 17 + 5 = 39
Step 22
Uisng B beads add a round using: Step 24
1 Herringbone Increase Using B beads add the Point Round
1 bead in the next 2 spaces
1 Herringbone Increase Step 25
1 bead in the next 8 spaces For the tab on top: bead it along the
1 Herringbone Increase shortest side. For the tab on the side: bead
1 bead in the next 8 spaces. it on any of the longer sides.
Step-Up at the end of the round to exit the
first bead added. Step 26
Repeat Steps 21-25 using all the other 8
Step 23 colours to give you a total of 9 beaded
Using B beads bead a round of trianglar beads with the tab on the top and 9 with
Increasing. the tab along the side.
Threading on just 1 shape in a range of different

colours gives you a colourful look
Threading on lots of beaded beads in co-ordinated

colours gives you one look...
...sprinkling in a clashing colour gives you a

competely different one!

Suspensions Pendant | THE MATHS
Suspensions Pendant
Wear your suspension closer to your heart
‘Beads’ in the
with this variation incorporating its own instructions for this
project always just
hanging hole means your cylinder
beads. When you need
Volume 1 of Geometric Beadwork introduced the idea of beading integral to use the feature
hanging holes into to your work and this project combines that with suspension beads this is specified
techniques
Materials Step 2
• 189/ 210 x 3mm round pearls For your last 2 components increase one Step 3
• 10g of size 11 cylinder beads side as usual and then on the second side
only bead up to Step 7 and 1 round of Step
Variations 8.
I used large feature beads in mine
combined with small cylinder beads so feel Step 3
free to experiment with altering either of Begin a new round by performing a Peyote
those variables Decrease in the first corner, and then bead
the rest of the round as normal. At the end
I used you’ll need to Step-Up into the first bead
A mix of: added.
• Copper - DB40 Step 4
• Peach - DB207 Step 4
Bead another round, beginning as normal,
Techniques used but when you come to the last corner
• Beading a Triangle, page 26 add no beads into it and ensure you again
• Suspension Bangle, page 70 Step-Up to exit the first bead added in this
round.
THE STEPS...
You will bead most of this piece as regular Step 5
suspension beading just adding in hanging Bead another round, beginning as normal,
holes on one side of each of your last two but when you come to the last corner Step 6
components add no beads into it and ensure you again
Step-Up to exit the first bead added in this
Step 1 round.
Repeat Steps 1-15 of ‘Suspension Bangle’
on page 70, but bead each triangle up to Step 6
as many beads a side as desired (I went up You will now ‘seal’ the hole by beading the
to 8 a side before the Point Round) and other side of it.
don’t join the ends.. Begin the round as normal but when you
reach the last corner pick up 14 beads (4 x
top tip 3 + 2) and thread into the first bead added
in the last round and then Step-Up into the
Remember you have to bead the hole
first bead added this round. Step 7
in one side of two components and
make sure to match them up when Step 7
joining...learn from my mistakes! For the Point Round bead as you would
regularly but when you come to the long
chain of beads added in Step 6 bead 3
In a nutshell! regular peyote stitches (for the 3 rounds
you missed) and then place 1 bead
• Bead suspensions components 8 between the next 2 (for the corner) and
beads a side then finish with 3 regular peyote stitches.
•Join components with featue
beads
top tip
• Bead 2 components with integral
My pendant has 9 components but it was
hanging holes and attach to
fiddly to join so you may find 10 easier
complete pendant
Zinnia | THE MATHs
Zinnia
Make your geometrics and maths
floral with this intricate pendant
Maths-based petals take a leap in this project with the addition of
extra beading inside each one...
Materials
• 12g of size 11 cylinder beads –
your C beads (I used a mix of two THE STEPS...
colours using 9g of one and 3g of the Getting started
second) Step 1
• 2g of size 15 seed beads – your S beads Using your C1 beads bezel the crystal.
• 1 x 30mm flatback crystal or similar
Adding the petals This Zinnia was beaded using DB40 around a 14mm Rivoli
I used Step 2 exactly as the regular Zinnia but with only 1 layer of petals
and because of the size difference only 9 petals
• Bronze – DB22 - C1 in the instructions Weave to exit the second round of C1
• Blue – DB165 - C2 in the instructions beads from the front of your work.
Colour and pattern Step 3

There are so many ways you could vary Pick up 18 C1 beads and thread through
these petals and the main way is by the C1 bead on the same round but 2
altering the amounts used to bead the away from where you were exiting.
petals to create different sizes. You can
also play around with colour placement Step 4
i.e. making the centres of your petals a Repeat Step 3 all around your bezel so add
different colour a total of 18 petals. Finish by exiting the
first C1 bead you added this round.
Size and shape
These can also be beaded around a 20 or
27mm crystal and even a 14mm rivoli...
Using them
The pendants have a simple beaded strip at
the back so they can be strung (they look Step 3 Step 4
great on the chain for the Lotus Necklace)
or with the use of a safety pin they can be
turned into brooches
Techniques
In a nutshell!
•B ezel a flatback crystal
• Add petals based on the basic
maths (picking up 18 beads = 4
x 4 + 2) so 4 single stitches along
each side of the petal
•Using peyote stitch fill in the
petal centres
the maths | ZInnia
Step 10
Step 8 Step 9

Using C2 beads peyote stitch a single bead Add no beads into the next space (a
into each of the next 4 spaces. Peyote Stitch Decrease)
Step 6 Step 9
Using 2 x C2 beads thread through the Repeat Steps 5-8 all around the circle of
next C1 bead without missing any (this is a petals. Finish by Stepping-Up to exit the
Herringbone Increase). first C2 bead added this round.
Step 7 Step 10
Using C2 beads peyote stitch a single bead Using C2 beads peyote stitch a single
into each of the next 4 spaces. bead into each of the next 4 spaces.
Step 11
Pick up 2 x C2 beads and thread through
the next C2 bead without missing any
(this is a Herringbone Increase).
Step 12
Using C2 beads peyote stitch a single
bead into each of the next 4 spaces.
top tip
From now on you will notice that your
petals begin to overlap and crowd
each other - this is to be expected
This Zinnia was beaded using AK1607F (the yellow/ Chartreuse) and
DB610 around a 27mm crystal. The petals were beaded exactly as in the
regular Zinnia project but because of the maths I ended up with only
16 petals
Zinnia | THE MATHs
Step 13
Add no beads into the next space (a Peyote
Stitch Decrease)
Step 14
Repeat Steps 10-13 all around the circle
of petals. Finish by Stepping-Up to exit the
first C2 bead added this round.
Filling in petal centres

The next steps are optional but I
think they add a ‘finished’ look to
your petals
Step 15
Weave through your work to exit the 2nd I bead a simple peyote strip at the back of
C1 bead you would have picked up in your my work (or even just string some beads
across) which allows me to use the flower
first petal.
as a brooch or pendant.
Step 16
Using C1 or C2 beads peyote stitch a single
bead into the next 3 spaces which sit along
the centre line of the petal.
Step 17
Turn and then weave back through the 3
beads just added, peyote stitching them to
the other side of the flower petal. Continue
to fill in all the petals.
The second layer of petals

The second layer is beaded in
almost the exact same way as the
first- just the number of beads
picked up at different steps alters
Step 18
Weave to exit the fourth round of C1 This Zinnia was beaded using AK703
beads from the front of your work. (the copper) and AK511F (blue)
around a 20mm flatback crystal.
For the front petals I picked up 14 C
Step 19 beads ( 3 x 4 + 2) to begin and 18 (4 x
Add petals using 22 C1 beads. This means 4 + 2) for the back ones. Because of the
you’ll bead 5 single peyote stitches along maths I ended up with only 12 petals
each side and fill in the centres using 4
single beads.
Lotus Necklace | THE MATHs
Lotus Necklace Step 1
Floral clashes with angles in this

dramatic necklace...
This necklace is what happens when you take the basic maths and add in
some zipping... 3-dimensional petals with a lot of oomph!
Materials Techniques
• 28g of size 11 cylinder beads – • Bezelling Crystals, page 22
your C beads • The Basic Maths, page 94
• 25g of size 15 seed beads –
your S beads THE STEPS... Step 2
• 1 x 30mm flatback crystal or similar
• 1 x popper/ snap fastener Beading the chain...your first link
Step 1
I used Rounds 1-2. Pick up 60 S beads and thread
• Blues – a mix of DB135, DB165, DB277, through the first 28 to join into a circle.
DB756, DB798 and DB1138 Leave a long thread tail to return to.
Colour and pattern top tip

I used a mix of blues for my piece but Threading through that many beads
you could keep it to single colours or add means your tail thread is in the perfect
stripes... You can also play around with the position to return to later
size and amounts of petals - just stitch to
the basic maths for examples Step 2
Round 3- Using 1 S bead in every space
Size and shape add 1 round of even-count circular peyote
These can also be beaded around a 20 or stitch. Step 3
27mm crystal and even a 14mm rivoli...
Step 3
Using them Round 4- *Peyote stitch 2 S beads into the
Thread one of your end chain links through first space and then 1 S bead into each of
the clasp and thread the clasp behind the the next 14 spaces. Repeat from * once
securing strip of beadwork at the back more to complete the round. To finish
of your pendant. Place around your neck ensure you Step-Up to exit the first bead
then thread the link at the other end of you added this round.
your chain onto your clasp and fasten the
popper on the clasp to secure Step 4
Round 5- Peyote stitch 1 S bead into every
space including splitting the pairs added in
In a nutshell! Round 4.
• Use Peyote Stitch & Herringbone
Increases to bead links in a chain Step 5
Round 6- Peyote stitch 1C into every space. Step 4
• Bead a variation on your links to
create a hidden clasp
• Bezel a flatback crystal Step 5
• Bead one side of your petals
adding a Point Round to finish
• Bead the other side of your petal
and zip to the Point Round to
finish
• Repeat to add another layer of
petals Geometric Beadwork Volume 2 by Jean Power | 117
the maths | Lotus Necklace
Step 7
Step 6
Steps 10 - 17
Step 6
Round 7- *Peyote stitch 1C into the first
15 spaces and then 2C into the next space.
Repeat from * to complete the round.
Step 7
Round 8- Peyote stitch 1C into every space
including splitting the pairs added in Round
7.
Step 8
Return to your tail thread and repeat
Rounds 4-7 on this side (Steps 3-6).
Finish the chain link by zipping the edges Step 12 Step 14
together using the beads added in Round Bead peyote stitch using S beads in the Peyote stitch using C beads adding 1 into
8. following quantities: 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 1, 1, 1, every space (large blue beads).
1, 1, 2, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 1, 1, 1, 1. (4x1,
Continuing the chain 1x2, 5x1, 1x2, 5x1, 1x2, 4x1) (small lilac Step 15
Step 9 beads). Bead peyote stitch using C beads in the
Continue adding chain links using Steps following quantities: 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 1, 1,
1-8 ensuring that when you pick up your Step 13 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 1, 1, 1, 1,
60 A beads you link them into a circle Peyote stitch using S beads adding 1 into 1. (5x1, 1x2, 6x1, 1x2, 6x1, 1x2, 5x1) (large
through the last link you beaded. I made every space including splitting the pairs red beads).
21 chain links. added in the previous row (small green
beads).
Beading the clasp
As you bead this, the increases will
cause your work to bend. You need
to ensure that you let your work
bend into a triangular shape with
the corners turning outwards in
the same direction.
Step 10
Pick up 43 S beads, leaving a long tail
thread (the small orange beads in the
diagram).
Step 11
Using odd-count peyote bead one row
with 1S in every space (small yellow
beads).
The chain that accompanies the pendant is formed of

beaded ovals and the clasp is triangular with a hidden
fastening
Step 20
Step 21
Step 22
top tip
For clarity these diagrams don’t show
the full piece but all of the 6 petals are
beaded exactly the same. Also each
round of beads is shown as a different
colour and the previous beads are
shown outlined in yellow

Bead peyote stitch using C beads in the Weave through your work so you are *Peyote stitch with 1C in each of the first 7
following quantities: 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 1, 1, exiting any bead in the 3rd round of C spaces (the red beads in the diagram), then
1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 1, 1, beads from the front of your bail (the bead squeeze 2C in between the next 2 C beads
1, 1, 1. (5x1, 1x2, 7x1, 1x2, 7x1, 1x2, 5x1) you exit is marked with a red dot). (a Herringbone Increase). Peyote stitch 1C
(large green beads). into each of the next 7 spaces and then
Step 21 no beads in the next space. Repeat from *
Step 17 *Pick up 30C (the pink beads in the five more times to bead all the way around
Peyote stitch using C beads adding 1 into diagram) and then thread through the C your petals. Finish the round by Stepping-
every space including splitting the pairs bead in the same round as you are exiting, Up into the first bead added.
added in the previous row (large yellow 6 beads away. Repeat from * five more
beads). times to add a total of 6 petals. To finish,
Step-Up through the first of the 30 C
Step 18 beads added in the first petal.
Retun to your tail thread. Repeat Steps 12-
16 and then zip both edges of your work
together using the beads added in Step 17.
Sew one side of your fastener to each end.
The flower centrepiece
Step 19
Bezel your crystal as described.
Adding the first layer of petals -

the first side
You will now begin beading the
petals by picking up 30 C beads
and adding them to one of the
rounds of C beads already beaded.
This Lotus was beaded, using the same mix of cylinder beads, around a
20mm flatback crystal. To begin each petal I picked up just 14 beads (3 x
4 + 2) and beaded just one increasing round before the Point Round
the maths | Lotus Necklace
Step 23 Step 23
Repeat Step 22 three more times (the
green, lilac and then yellow beads in the
diagrams). Always make sure to Step-Up
at the end of every round to exit the first
bead added that round.
Step 24
Bead 1 round with 1 C in every space
(the grey beads in the diagram), including
splitting the pairs added in the previous
round and also 1 in every gap where
previously you added no beads.
Step 25
Weave through your bail base to exit the
Step 24 C bead which sits 1 behind the one used
as the base for any of your petal fronts.
This will be 2 rounds behind but sit right
behind.
top tip
You can use the same base bead to
add the next piece of the petal to that
you did in Step 20 but I think this may
be beading into the same beads too
many times so prefer to use beads one
behind those already used
Step 25 Step 26
You’ll now bead the equivalent of
repeating Step 22 (*1C in 7 spaces, 2 C in
next space, 1C in 7 spaces. Repeat from *)
beading into the beads which sit ‘inside’
the piece of petal already beaded.
top tip
This may seem a crazy thing to bead
but bear with it! As long as your
new increases (2C beads using a
Herringbone Increase) sit in the same
place as the increases on the first side
your petal will work.
Step 26
Step 27
Repeat Step 23 to add 4 more rounds
and then zip the two sides of your petals
together using the beads added in Step 24.
Step 28
Weave through your work to exit the C
bead in the third round of C beads which
sits exactly half way between your petal
bases in the first layer. This is shown with a
cross in the diagram.
Step 28
top tip
In the diagram the bead you want to
use now has a cross on it. Also the
beads you added in Steps 21-27 are
shown in grey
Step 29
Repeat Steps 21-27 to add a second layer
of petals.
Adding the securing Strip

Step 30
Turn your pendant over and weave to Step 30a
exit an S bead on the edge round at the
back. Using S beads peyote stitch 1 bead
into each of the next 3 spaces. Change
direction and continue adding peyote stitch
with 3 S beads per row for another 31
rows. Zip the end of this new beadwork
strip to the opposite side of the pendant.
This forms the loop through which you will
thread the clasp to wear the necklace. Step 30b

Embellished Lotus | THE MATHs
Embellished Lotus
If you don’t zip together the edges of your
Lotus petals you have the perfect place to
add some beads...
Materials THE STEPS... Step 3
• 5g of size 11 cylinder beads – Step 1 Bead Steps 25-27 of the Lotus Necklace
your C beads Bead Steps 19-23 of the Lotus Necklace Flower Centrepiece from pages 119-120
• 2g of size 15 seed beads – Flower Centrepiece from pages 119-120 to begin the front of your petals but only
your S beads but continue to add a total of 6 versions of bead two rounds in Step 27.
• 1 x 30mm flatback crystal or similar Step 22..
• 84 x 3mm round pearls or similar . Step 4
. top tip Weave to exit ‘inside’ your petal towards
I used As you bead the first stage of your
the base of your work. Pick up 7 pearls and
• Blue – AKFM932 . thread into the petal (again in the inside)
petals (Step 1) if you want them to lie
. near the top of a Point bead.
Variations . flat as mine do you will need to add in
I used all blue for my seed and cylinder . some beads instead of decreasing at Step 5
beads but it is easy to play around with . the base of the petals. I added 1 bead Weave into your work to secure the pearls
colour. For example you could add the last . in the 4th increase round, 2 beads in so that the 7th one sits at the point and
rounds in a contrast colour to further frame . the 5th increase round and 3 beads in weave to exit the last pearl.
your feature beads. . the 6th increase round
You could also add another layer of . Step 6
petals as in the original Lotus for a more Pick up 7 pearls and secure them by
abundant look Step 2 threading into your work towards the base
Repeat Step 24 of the Lotus Necklace of the next petal. Weave into your work to
Size and shape Flower Centrepiece from pages 119-120 to secure the pearls so that the 7th one sits at
These can also be beaded around a 20mm add the Point Round. the base between two petals.
or 27mm crystal and even a 14mm rivoli... Weave to exit the last pearl.
you just need to do a bit of maths...
Step 7
Using them Continue adding pearls until all of your
I bead a simple strip at the back of my Adding your feature beads isn’t an exact petals are embellished.
work to allow me to wear the piece as a science but you want to make sure they’re
securely anchored in place and look evenly
pendant or brooch
spaced. This diagram shows an example
of stitching back through the last bead to
Techniques secure and continue
• Lotus Necklace, page 116
In a nutshell!
• Bezel a flatback crystal
•Bead one side of your petals
adding a Point Round to finish
• Bead the other side of your petal
but finishing before it’s as large
as the back
• Fill the space between the front
and back of your petals with
embellishment beads
Flower Stars | THE MATHs
Flower Stars
This is what happens when you remove the
centre of your Lotus flowers...
A flower with no centre removes some of the floral effect but adds new interest in other ways
Materials
Each star uses: Step 1 ‘Beads’ in the
• 4 -7g of size 11 or 10 cylinder beads instructions for this
• 5 small drop beads project always just
means your cylinder
Variations beads. When you need
The numbers of beads I give in these to use drops this is
instructions can all be altered - just specified
remember to stick to the Basic Maths of
multiples of 4 plus 2.
You can also bead your star with a different
number of points and therefore drop beads
Size and shape

Each star is around 2¼ - 2¾ inches/ 5½ - 7
cm across
Techniques
• Lotus Necklace, page 116
THE STEPS... Steps 2- 4

Step 1
Pick up 22 beads and 1 drop. Repeat 5
times and thread through the first bead to
join into a circle.
Step 2
Peyote stitch 1 bead into the next 5 spaces
and add a Herringbone Increase into the
next.
top tip
The diagrams for Step 2 onwards don’t show
the entire piece of beadwork but it is all
beaded as shown
Step 3
and bead a decrease in the next.
top tip
The decreases that you bead will sit over the
drop beads
Step 4
Repeat Steps 2-3 all around your beads
ensuring you Step-Up at the end to exit the
first bead added.
In a nutshell!
• Bead a Lotus but with no central crystal! Geometric Beadwork Volume 2 by Jean Power | 125
the maths | Flower Stars
Steps 5-7
Step 5
Continue beading adding a 2nd increasing
and decreasing round based on Steps 2-4.
Step 6
Continue beading adding in a 3rd
increasing and decreasing round based on
Steps 2-4.
Step 7
Point Round - Bead a round using 1 bead
in every space including adding just 1 over
every pair in the previous round and 1 in
every decrease space.
THE SECOND SIDE
top tip
Steps 8-11
The second side begins slightly
differently as it has no decreases.
Instead you are adding in the beads
you will decrease between soon
top tip
The diagrams for Steps 8 onwards
show the beads in the first side as grey
Step 8
Weave through your work to exit any drop
bead.
Step 9
and add a Herringbone Increase into the
next.
Step 10
finishing by threading into a drop bead.
Step 11
Repeat Steps 9-10 all around your work
finishing by exiting the first bead added
Step 12
Repeat Steps 2-4 twice to add 2 increasing
and decreasing rounds to your work.
Step 13
Zip the edges of your piece together using
the beads added in Step 7.
These pieces look good in all size

of cylinder bead
There are lots of ways you can use these motifs and conenct them. This
photo shows you just a couple
geometric beadwork | My Final Word...
At the end of Volume 1 I gave you a project to play

with and I thought it would be nice to end this one
the same way ...
...So begin with 9g of size 11 cylinder beads (Ak562PF) and 1g of size 15
seed beads and a bezelled 27mm crystal...
Throw in some maths (22 beads picked up per petal, thread into the 4th bead on the base
round to attach the beginning petal loops and just bead 2 increasing rounds) and a touch
of interlocking (loop each beginning petal loop around a previously beaded one as you
begin the second layer of petals which is attached to the same round as the first) and you
have a whole new Lotus...
This book is dedicated to all the beaders whose enthusiam for original geometric work spurs me on to strive for new ideas. Also to
everyone who has supported me, my beading friends, and loved ones around the world, but most especially to he who puts up with
a house full of beads and can get me to see the funny side when I make stupid mistakes such as mix up my pearl colours part way
through a project...
Geometric
Beadwork
Volume 2
Taking beading in exciting new
directions…
Dive in as Jean Power takes you through the basic ideas &
techniques of beading geometrically and on to more than
30 different projects exploring geometrics and beads…
Jean Power is an award-winning beadwork designer and

author whose love of beadwork, and especially all things
geometric, began the first time she put beads to thread
and has continued unabated ever since.
UK - £35
www.jeanpower.com

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Geometric

Geometric Beadwork Volume 2 is written and published by Jean Power

First Edition - published November 2014

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or

...but first up an apology...

Geometric Beadwork Volume 2 by Jean Power | 3

4 | Geometric Beadwork Volume 2 by Jean Power

Geometric Beadwork Volume 2 by Jean Power | 5

Get started with all

Terminology & Tips

8 | Geometric Beadwork Volume 2 by Jean Power

Spaces vs. gaps Different ways In a nutshell!

Beads per side

In this diagram I would say this triangle

Point Row or Round

I use the same method when

Geometric Beadwork Volume 2 by Jean Power | 9

Materials & Tools

With their flat sides and

Tila beads are flat

10 | Geometric Beadwork Volume 2 by Jean Power

A bead breaker is one of the most useful beading

Bangle and Neck Wires

Geometric Beadwork Volume 2 by Jean Power | 11

Design & Inspiration

All of these lead me to begin beading...

This amazing necklace was beaded by Barbara Burling-Perkins and shows

Geometric Beadwork Volume 2 by Jean Power | 13

14 | Geometric Beadwork Volume 2 by Jean Power

Triangular Building Cosmic

What happens when joined? Beautiful Bunting Necklace

What happens if I turn it into

Altering the size? Thread onto a finding? Add

Geometric Beadwork Volume 2 by Jean Power | 15

Lastly, look around you...

These incredible knotted necklaces, created by ARUMIdesign

16 | Geometric Beadwork Volume 2 by Jean Power

Pen (www.penhand.etsy.com and www.penhands.blogspot.gr)

Astrid Reichenbach (www.anastrideavor.

Peyote Stitch & Herringbone

Circular peyote stitch to create

Increasing in a peyote strip Increasing in circular peyote

18 | Geometric Beadwork Volume 2 by Jean Power

Point Round & Decreasing

It’s simply beaded by adding just 1

Starting to decrease top tip

Continue decreasing using this

Geometric Beadwork Volume 2 by Jean Power | 19

Zipping & Joining

Instead you want to add a Point

20 | Geometric Beadwork Volume 2 by Jean Power

This diagram shows you the thread

Geometric Beadwork Volume 2 by Jean Power | 21

Bezelling a 14mm round Rivoli

top tip top tip

Bezelling 27mm round stone

22 | Geometric Beadwork Volume 2 by Jean Power

Bezelling a 30mm round flatback stone

Step 3 top tip

Bezelling a 20mm round flatback stone

Geometric Beadwork Volume 2 by Jean Power | 23

Begin your geometric journey right

top tip ...

Step 6 Point Round - Bead a round with