Aknitomy Presents:: Aknitomical Bat Specimen !"#$%&"' '& (#) (#&# +) ,' - ( ("%.)

aKNITomy Presents:
!
aKNITomical Bat Specimen
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HELPFUL LINKS
Long-tail Cast On: http://vimeo.com/12278463
I-cord: http://vimeo.com/14186365
Other knitting tutorials: www.knittinghelp.com
NOTE: Some of the example photos in this pattern are from my Lab Rat pattern. This is because it
is easier to see the stitches in white, rather than the dark grey. (Please do not use these photos
for stitch count references.)
Ears (make 2)
Using just two of your size 2 needles and the light grey Frog Tree yarn, long-tail
CO 3 sts.
Rows 1, 3 and 5: p all
Row 2: k all
Row 4: k1, k2tog
Row 6: k2tog
Break yarn and pull through last st. Weave end down to base of ear. When the
bat!s head is ready, you can use these 2 ends to sew the ear to the head, and
then tie a small knot inside the head to secure the ear in place.
Head and Body
With US 2 DPNs, CO 6 sts in the dark grey Frog Tree – evenly distributed onto 3
needles – join and work in the round.
ROUND 1: (k1, yo) (6 times)
ROUND 2: (k1, k1tbl, yo) (6 times)
ROUND 4: (k3, k1tbl) (6 times) (24 sts total)
Knit 5 rounds.
! ?!
Now, redistribute the sts onto 2 needles (12 sts each). Lightly stuff the bum and
then work these sts as if you were doing a 3 needle bind off, but don!t actually
bind off (insert your right needle into the first stitches on the front and back
needles and knit them both together) see photos below. The sts are just being
knit together (this is my super-lazy way of avoiding seaming later on). When all
sts have been worked, you should have 12 live sts all on one needle and the bum
section should be stuffed and closed.
With right side facing, CO 6 sts using the backward loop method. Turn and p all
sts. Backward loop CO 6 more sts, turn and k all 24 sts.
NEXT ROW: purl
ROW 1: k6, ssk, k to last 8, k2tog, k6.
ROW 2: purl
ROW 3: knit
Row 4: purl
repeat these 4 rows twice more
BO 6 sts at beginning of next 2 rows (6 sts remain)
! I!
The body is now finished, and we can move on to the head!
ROW 1: k to last 2 sts, k2tog
ROW 2: p to last 2 sts, p2tog
Continue these 2 rows until 1

stitch remains.
With right side facing, pick up and

knit 5 sts down the left side of
triangle.
!
Now flip bat over, with a 2nd

needle, pick up and knit 6 sts
across the purl side of the neck.
!
! @!
Then pick up and knit 6 more sts
on a 3rd needle up the final side of
the triangle.
Join and knit 4 rounds
ROUND 5: (ssk, k2, k2tog) (3 times)
ROUND 6: knit
Now is a good time to embroider the eyes and tie the ears onto the head (this
photo is an example from my Lab Rat pattern. It is much easier to see the eye
and ear placement against the white rat, but the placement is exactly the same!)
ROUND 7: (ssk, k2tog) (3 times)
Break yarn and pull through the remaining 6 sts. Weave in ends.
! G!
Legs:
Using light grey, pick up and knit 5 sts along the butt and lower body flap like this:
Working in I-cord, knit 2 rows
ROW 3: (remaining in I-cord) ssk, k1, k2tog
Knit 8 more I-cord rows, then break yarn and pull through last 3 sts.
Arms:
Again with light grey, pick up and knit 3 sts on the upper edge of the body flap,
about "” away from the side of the head. For placement help, refer to the eye
and ear placement photo above (page 6).
Working in I-cord, knit 4 rows
ROW 3: (remaining in I-cord) k1, k2tog
Knit 10 more I-cord rows, then break yarn and pull through last 2 sts.
! P!
WINGS (worked flat in one piece):
CO 130 sts using the black sock yarn and the 24” circular needle. I use the long-
tail method, which means that my first row will be a purl row. If you prefer another
type of cast on, use it! But remember that you will need to knit a row before you
begin with row 1 below:
ROW 1: purl all, placing markers as follows: p18, pm, p18, pm, p20, pm, p18,
pm, p20, pm, p18, pm, p remaining 18 sts.
(The right side decrease rows are a bit wordy, so I have broken them down
into the wing sections, to make it easier to read while knitting)
ROW 2:
Section 1: k1, DD, k4, (kfb) twice, k4, DD, k1 (2 sts decreased, 16 sts remain)
Section 2: repeat section 1
Section 3: k1, DD, kfb, k4, (kfb) twice, k4, kfb, DD, k1 (0 sts decreased, 20 sts
remain)
ROW 3 and all odd rows: Purl
ROW 4 and every other even numbered row, through row 22: Knit
ROW 6:
! Q!
Section 3: knit all sts
ROW 10:
remain)
ROW 14:
ROW 18:
! R!
Section 1: k1, DD, (kfb) twice, DD, k1 (2 sts decreased, 8 sts remain)
remain)
ROW 22:
Section 1: k1, DD, DD, k1 (4 sts decreased, 4 sts remain)
ROW 24:
Section 1: ssk, k2tog (2 sts decreased, 2 sts remain)
! S!
ROW 25:
Section 1: p2tog
Section 3: purl all
BO all sts, weave in your ends, and wet block. It is really the blocking that gives
your wings their crisp points, so don!t neglect this step!
(Blocking: before and after)
Finishing:
Weave in all ends and block well. Needle felt your organs (see note below), and
then use a bit of sewing thread to secure them into the body. Sew the body onto
the wings.
Cut your poster board to fit into your frame, and then use your T-pins to pin the
bat into place.
! "T!
A note
on
needle
felting
As for the needle felting, it's really easy. At your local yarn store, pick up a set of
felting needles and some wool roving in organ-y colors. If you can't find roving,
you can use bulky weight yarn that you cut up into 2-inch strips and unravel a bit
with your fingers. Then, either with the roving or the unraveled yarn, form a wad
that is approximately the size of the organ you want to make (see photos for
ideas). Carefully begin jabbing the wad with your felting needle. (I place the wad
on top of a piece of upholstery foam and just stab away with the needle.) Try to
maintain the shape a bit with your fingers, but keep them out of the way of the
needle - it's sharp! Keep stabbing until the piece is felted. When your organs are
done, you can needle felt them into the body, and then use a bit of sewing thread
to secure them in place.
!
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! ""!
Knitting in Biology 101
Elizabeth Lavold Silky Wool in pale green

Various scraps of wool roving for felted organs
Size 2 DPNs
Felting needle for making the little innards
7 sts and 11 rows to the inch (this makes a frog that fits well in an 8 1/2 x 11 inch frame)
Copyright 2007 Emily Stoneking – This pattern is for personal use only
www.craftyhedgehog.etsy.com
Head and Body:
CO 20 sts.
ROW 1: k19, wrap 1, turn
ROW 2: p18, w1, turn
ROW 3: k17, w1, turn
ROW 19: k2, k wrapped st (make sure to pick up and knit the wrap along with the live
st), w1, turn
ROW 20: p3, p wrapped st (again, make sure to get the wrap along with your live st), w1,
turn
ROW 21: k4, k wrapped st (this time, and all of your subsequent rows there are 2 wraps
to pick up and k along with your live st), w1, turn
ROW 22: p5, p wrapped st, w1, turn
ROW 23: k6, k wrapped st, w1, turn
ROW 37: k20, CO 12 sts using the backwards loop CO method
ROW 38: k32, CO 12 using the backwards loop CO method
ROW 39: p all
Now work straight St st for 1 3/4 inches.
NEXT ROW: k12, ssk, k16, k2tog, k12

NEXT ROW: p all
NEXT ROW: k12, ssk, k14, k2tog, k12
NEXT ROW: p all
NEXT ROW: k12 sts, ssk, k4, k2tog, ssk, k4, k2tog, k to end of row
NEXT ROW: BO 12 sts, p to end of row
NEXT ROW: BO 12 sts, k next 6 sts onto a holder, then k final 6 sts
NEXT ROW: k all
Legs (worked in the round):
Using the backwards loop method, CO 12 more sts (18 sts total). Divide evenly onto 3
needles and begin working in the round – you want the 2 CO needles to be held to the
front of the body.
Work straight St st for 10 rounds, then work the following dec rounds:

ROUND 2: k all
ROUND 3: k all
ROUND 5: k all
ROUND 6: k all
Divide remaining sts onto 2 needles and work a 3 needle BO. Leave last st live on the
needle, turn and pick up the next st. With a second needle, pick up the next st and the last
st on the front side of the bound off edge. Now turn and pick up 2 more sts on the other
side of the bound off edge. You should have 6 sts divided onto 3 needles. Begin knitting
the frog’s calf:
Round 1: k1, yo, k1 (3 times)

Round 2: k1, k1tbl, k1 (3 times)
Round 3: k1, yo, k1, yo, k1 (3 times)
Round 4: k1, k1tbl, k1, k1tbl, k1 (3 times)
Work 3 rounds even
Next round: k1, k2tog, k2 (3 times)
Work 3 rounds even
Next round: k1, k2 tog, k1 (3 times) *Now is a good time to lightly stuff the calf.
Next round: k1, k2 tog (3 times)
Next round: k2tog (3 times) (3 sts remain). Now sl all sts onto one needle to begin your
feet.
Feet (worked flat on 2 needles):

ROW 1: p1, yo, p to last st, yo, p1
ROW 2: k1, l1tbl, k to last 2 sts, k1tbl, k1
ROWS 3 – 6: work even
Work these 6 rows 1 more time (7 sts total).
Now, work rows 1, 2 and 3 once more (9 sts total) you should be ready at this point to
begin a RS row.
Now, work a 3 stitch picot BO to create the toes. {Picot BO: using a backwards loop
method, CO 3 sts, then BO 6 sts. Slip the last st back onto the left needle. CO 3 sts, BO 6
sts, sl last st onto left needle. Do this one more time, and you’ll have made 3 toes!) Break
yarn and weave in end.}
Now: go back to the 6 sts that are waiting on the holder. Put them onto a working needle.
Join yarn and repeat the entire leg process beginning with the backwards loop CO for
your second leg.
Arms (make 2 – or 3 if you want a mutated frog!):
CO 8 sts and divide onto 3 needles. Work in the round for about an inch.
BO 3 sts, k remaining sts.
Next row: p all
Now BO last 5 sts with a 1 st picot BO (see above, but this time you only CO 1 st and BO
2).
Break yarn and pull through last st. Use this tail to sew his wrist closed (how morbid is
that?!), and use the CO tail to sew the arm to the body, just behind the head (see photo for
placement). Weave in ends.
Finishing:
Using black yarn, sew Xs for his eyes, or you can use plastic safety eyes. Lightly stuff the
head and thighs, and sew closed. Then, with scrap wool roving, in the colors of your
choice, needle-felt some innards – be as gruesome as you want to be! When you’re
satisfied with your guts, stitch them in place with some green sewing thread.
Lastly, block the daylights out of your frog. Once dry, use T-pins to pin him into a frame
that has been backed with cork (if you need a little extra thickness, you can put a layer of
foam board behind the cork). Then hang him on your wall and admire your handiwork!
aKNITomy
KNITTED EARTHWORM DISSECTION
!
MATERIALS NEEDLES
Fingering weight yarn in a good 1 set US size 2 double pointed

earthworm-y color (I like Madelinetosh
Tosh Sock in Rosewood, or Colinette Felting needle
Jitterbug in Oyster Blush): 1 skein will Sewing needle
make a ton of worms!
Gauge is not critical to this project. Any
Scraps of wool roving or bits of yarn sock weight yarn will work. If you prefer
for the guts to use US 1 or 3 needles, that shouldn!t
Sewing thread be a problem at all!
! "!
Stitch Glossary
k = knit
p = purl
St st = knit 1 row, purl 1 row
kfb = knit into the front and back of the stitch
pfb = purl into the front and back of the stitch
ssk = slip the next two stitches, slide them back onto the left needle, knit tog
through the back of the loops.
k2tog = knit next 2 sts together
I-cord tutorial: http://www.kyarns.com/product/2950/knitting-videos
BODY
Using your preferred cast on method, cast on 2 stitches. The body will be worked
in I-cord
Row 1: k1, k1fb
Work these 3 stitches in I-cord until it measures approximately 2 inches.
To create the opened body section, stop working in I-cord, turn work and begin
working flat as follows:
Row 1: pfb, p1, pfb (5 sts)
Work these 5 stitches in St st until the worm measures approximately 4 inches

from the cast-on tip, end having just worked a purl row.
Next row: ssk, k1, k2tog
Next row: purl all sts
Last row: k1, k2tog
Break yarn and pull through last 2 sts.
! #!
Clitellum*
Cast on 6 sts. Divide evenly onto 3 needles, join to work in the round, being
careful not to twist your stitches.
Knit every round until your clitellum measures approximately " inch. Bind off all
stitches.
Using a crochet hook or darning needle, pull I-cord end of the worm through the
knitted tube. Using the cast on and bind off tails, sew the tube in place.
Weave in your ends and block well.
GUTS
Using bits of wool yarn or roving, needle felt little bits and pieces to create the
innards of your worm (use the photo below as a guide, or do a Google image
search for “earthworm anatomy”). When your guts are done, sew them securely
into the worm.
For a good needle felting tutorial, go here:

http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=51271.
*Yes, that!s really what it!s called.

Copyright 2011, Emily Stoneking
All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only.
! $!
aKNITomy Presents:
FETAL PIG DISSECTION
MATERIALS:
Manos Wool Classica – 1/4
skein in pale pink
Scraps of black sock weight

yarn
Size 3 double pointed

needles
Polyfil stuffing
Wool roving in various

colors for organs
Felting needle and mat
STITCH GUIDE
K = knit
P = purl
M1 = Insert the left needle under the bar that stretches between the stitches on
your right and left needle. Knit this through the back of the loop.
K2tog (P2tog) = knit or purl the next two stitches together
SSK = slip slip knit decrease
W1 = wrap the next stitch (photo tutorial: http://www.purlbee.com/short-row-

tutorial/2008/6/18/short-rows-tutorial.html)
I-cord tutorial: http://www.purlbee.com/i-cord-tutorial/
A note about the cast on: I always use the long-tail CO, unless otherwise
stated, and that is why in this pattern row 1 will always be a purl row. If you
choose to use a different CO, please knit a row before beginning with the first row
in the instructions.
! "!
EARS (make 2, and knit these first):
CO 2 sts.
ROW 1: p all
ROW 2: k1, m1, k1
ROW 3: p all
ROW 4: k all
ROW 5: p all
ROW 6: k1, k2tog
ROW 7: p all
ROW 8: k2tog
Break yarn, but do not weave your ends in yet. You can use them to sew the ears
to the head later.
HEAD, starting with the snout (worked flat): CO 3 sts
ROW 1 - 9: purl all odd numbered rows
ROW 2: k1, m1, k1, m1, k1
ROW 4: k1, m1, k3, m1, k1
ROW 6: k all
ROW 8: ssk, k3, k2tog
ROW 10: ssk, k1, k2tog
Leave the remaining 3 stitches on your needle. With a second needle, pick up
and knit 6 stitches along long edge – this will now be needle # 1. With another
needle, pick up and knit 3 stitches along CO edge (this is now needle # 2), and
with a final needle, pick up and knit 6 sts along last edge (this is now needle #3).
Knit the 3 live sts – this is now needle #4.
! #!
Join, placing marker at beginning of round.
ROUNDS 1 – 3: k all (Now is a good time to embroider your nostrils. Huh.

There!s a sentence I!ve never written before… The nostril line should run parallel
with needles 2 and 4, or in other words, needles 1 and 3 are the top and bottom
of the pig!s snout.)
ROUND 4: k1, m1, k4, m1, k to end (8 sts now on needle 1)
ROUND 5 - 11: k all odd numbered rounds
ROUND 6: k1, m1, k6, m1, k to end (10 sts now on needle 1)
ROUND 8: k1, m1, k8, m1, k5, m1, k4, m1, k to end (12 sts on needle 1, 8 sts on
needle 3, 3 sts each on needles 2 and 4)
ROUND 10: k4, m1, k4, m1, k5, m1, k3, m1, k6, m1, k3, m1, k to end (14 sts on
needle 1, 10 sts on needle 3, 4 sts each on needles 2 and 4)
ROUND 12: (begin short row shaping of the forehead):
K9, ssk, k1, turn
Sl1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn
Sl1, k6, ssk, k1, turn
Sl1, p7, p2tog, p1, (10 sts now on needle 1)
Turn, knit to end of round
ROUNDS 13-14: Knit.
(Now is a good time to stop and embroider the eyes and attach the ears by
folding each ear in half with the knit side facing out, and then use the tails to
simply tie the ears onto the head):
! $!
ROUND 15: k15, ssk, k4, k2tog, k to end
ROUND 16: k all
ROUND 17: k3, ssk, k2tog, k8, ssk, k2, k2tog, k to end
Now work the following short rows to shape the back of the head:
K6, ssk, turn
*Sl1, p4 , p2tog, turn
Sl1, k4, ssk, turn
Repeat from * until you have worked through the stitches on needles 2 and 4
(there will now be 6 sts on needle 1 and 6 sts on needle 3).
Stuff the head and then, holding needles 1 and 3 parallel to one another, PURL
the first stitch from each together. PURL the second stitches together, and so on,
so that when you finish, you will have closed the hole and have only 6 sts
remaining on one needle.
! %!
BODY:
You should have 6 sts on your needle and be ready to work a knit row.
ROW 1: k1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1
ROW 2: p all
Repeat these 2 rows 5 more times (18 sts total)
After finishing with your last purl row and with the purl side facing you, CO 6 sts
using the backward loop method. Turn and knit to end. CO 6 more sts. (30 sts
total)
Continue in stockinette st for 1 " inches, end after finishing a purl row.
NEXT ROW: BO 7 sts, k to end
NEXT ROW: BO 7 sts, p 7 sts, then place the following 8 stitches on a holder or
piece of scrap yarn.
The Pig!s left leg:
Turn work so that the front of the pig is facing you. With a second needle, pick up
and knit 8 sts across the front of the body, 1 row above and parallel to the 8 live
sts.
Join and work in the round (you can redistribute onto 3 needles or leave the
stitches on 2, whichever you prefer.):
Knit 6 rounds
ROUND 7: [ssk, k4, k2tog] (twice) (12 sts remain) distribute these sts evenly onto
3 needles.
ROUNDS 8-10: k all
ROUND 11: work the following short rows to shape the leg:
! &!
K9, w1, turn
P6, w1, turn
K5, w1, turn
P4, w1, turn
K3, w1, turn
P2, w1
Turn and knit to the end of the round. When you come to a stitch that has been
wrapped, pick up the wrap and knit it along with its stitch.
Knit 2 rounds
Next round: (k1, k2tog, k1) (3 times)
Knit 4 rounds – now is a good time to stuff the leg.
You should have 3 stitches per needle. Each needle represents one toe. To
make the toes, work the 3 sts on needle 1 (the first stitches of the round).
Ignoring the remaining stitches, knit only these 3 sts in I-cord for 2 rounds. Still in
I-cord, on the next row, k1, k2tog.
Now break yarn, leaving a tail approximately 2 feet long. Pull tail through last 2
sts, and then weave the tail back down the toe to its base. This tail is now your
working yarn for toe # 2.
Toe # 2: Knit the 3 sts from needle 2. Ignore the last 3 sts and work these 3 sts
just as you did for the first toe.
! '!
Work the last toe just as you did for the second.
When you!re done, you can use the long tail to sew the hole closed in the center
of the toes and to close any gaps that might have resulted from the short rows in
the leg shaping.
The Pig!s right leg, With the back of the pig facing you, rejoin your yarn and knit
the 8 sts off the holder. With a second needle, pick up and knit 8 sts across the
body. Work this leg just as you did the left leg through round 10.
ROUND 11:
K3, w1, turn
P6, w1, turn
K5, w1, turn
P4, w1, turn
K3, w1, turn
P2, w1
Finish this leg just as for the left leg.
The Pig!s left arm:
With the back of the pig facing you, pick up and knit 6 sts along the diagonal
between the head and the beginning of your CO edge. Then turn and pick up 6
sts across the front of the pig.
Knit 5 rounds, then redistribute sts evenly onto 3 needles
ROUND 6: [k1, k2tog, k1] (3 times)
Knit 6 rounds – now stuff the arm
! (!
Work the toes exactly as you did for the feet.
Work the right arm exactly the same as the left, except you should begin picking
up stitches with the front of the pig facing you instead.
TAIL:
CO 3 sts and work in I-cord for 2 rows.
ROW 3: still in I-cord: k1, k2tog
Break yarn and weave end down to the base of the tail – you can use the BO and
CO tails to tie the tail to the pig!s bum.
Weave in all ends.
! )!
A note
on
needle
felting
felting needles and some wool roving in organ-y colors (I like a natural, dark
brown, light blue, pale green, and an orange). If you can't find roving, you can
use bulky weight yarn that you cut up into 2 inch strips and unravel a bit with your
fingers. Then, either with the roving or the unraveled yarn, form a wad that is
approximately the size of the organ you want to make (see photos for ideas).
Carefully begin jabbing the wad with your felting needle. (I place the wad on top
of a piece of upholstery foam and just stab away with the needle.) Try to maintain
the shape a bit with your fingers, but keep them out of the way of the needle - it's
sharp! Keep stabbing until the piece is felted. When your organs are done, you
can needle felt them into the body, and then use a bit of sewing thread to secure
them in place.
Pattern is for personal use only, all rights reserved.
! *!
aKNITomy Presents:
KNITTED LAB RAT
MATERIALS LIST:
• 1 set US 2 double pointed
needles
• Jo Sharp Rare Comfort Kid
Mohair in white – approx. 1/3
skein
• A few yards of pink DK weight
yarn
• About 8” of black fingering
weight wool for the eyes
• Various colors of wool roving
or unraveled wool yarn to
make the organs
• White sewing thread and
needle
• Felting needle and mat
• Darning needle
• Polyfil or other stuffing
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
STITCH GLOSSARY
• CO = cast on
• BO = bind off
• k = knit
• p = purl
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• k2tog = knit 2 together
• p2tog = purl 2 together
• yo = yarn over
• k1tbl = knit stitch through the
back of the loop
• p1tbl = purl stitch through the
back of the loop
• pm = place marker
• I-cord tutorial:
http://vimeo.com/14186365
• Picot bind off tutorial:
http://knitting.about.com/od/learnt
oknit/ss/picot-bindoff.htm
1
Note:
I nearly always use a long-tail cast on, which is why row 1 in my patterns is
usually a wrong side row. Feel free to use another kind of cast on, but remember
to knit a row before beginning with row 1 in this pattern.
Ears (make 2 and make these first):
Worked flat:
With pink, CO 3 sts.
ROW 1: p all
ROW 2: k1, k2tog
ROW 3: p2tog
Break yarn and pull through last st. Weave end down to base of ear. When the rat’s head
is ready, you can use these 2 ends to sew the ear to the head, and then tie a small knot
inside the head to secure the ear in place.
Body and Head:

The body section begins with the tail and is worked up toward the nose.
With pink, CO 2 sts. The rat’s tail is worked in I-cord throughout.

ROW 1: k1, yo, k1
ROW 2: k1, k1tbl, k1
Continue in I-cord until tail measures approximately 2 inches
NEXT ROW: k1, yo, k2
NEXT ROW: k1, k1tbl, k2
Continue knitting I-cord until tail measures approximately 3 inches
NEXT ROW: k1, k1tbl, k3
Continue knitting I-cord until tail measures approximately 4 inches
NEXT ROW: k1, k1tbl, k4 (6 sts)
Now, break off pink yarn and join your white mohair. Divide the 6 sts onto 3 needles and
begin working in the round.
ROUND 1: (k1, yo) (6 times)

ROUND 5: (k4, k1tbl, yo) (6 times) (36 sts)
ROUND 6: (k5, k1tbl) (6 times) (36 sts total)
Knit 5 rounds.
2
Now, redistribute the sts onto 2 needles (18 sts each). Lightly stuff the bum and then
work these sts as if you were doing a 3 needle bind off, but don’t actually bind off (insert
your right needle through the first stitch on the front and back needles and knit them both
together) see photos below. (This is my super-lazy way of avoiding seaming later on).
You should now have 18 live sts all on one needle and the bum section should be stuffed
and closed.
Now, with right side facing, CO 8 sts using the backward loop method. Turn and p all 26
sts. With wrong side facing, backward loop CO 8 more sts (34 sts total)
ROW 1: k8, ssk, k to last 10 sts, k2tog, k8

ROW 2: purl
ROW 3: knit
ROW 4: purl
ROW 5: knit
ROW 6: purl
Work rows 1 – 6 once more, then work rows 1 – 4 once (28 sts remain)
NEXT ROW: BO 9 sts, k to end

NEXT ROW: BO 9 sts, p to end (10 center sts remain)
3
That finishes the body section. Now to begin working on the head!
ROW 1: k8, k2tog

ROW 2: p7, p2tog
ROW 3: k6, k2tog
ROW 4: p5, p2tog
ROW 5: k4, k2tog
ROW 6: p3, p2tog
ROW 7: k2, k2tog
ROW 8: p1, p2tog
ROW 9: k2tog (leave last stitch live on
the needle)
With right side facing, pick up and knit 9

sts down the left side of triangle (10 sts
total)
Flip rat over, with a 2nd needle, pick up

and knit 10 sts across the purl side of the
neck:
4
Then pick up and knit 10 more sts on a
3rd needle for the final side of the
triangle:
Join and knit 5 rounds
Round 6: ssk, k6, k2tog, k3, ssk, k2tog, k3, ssk, k6, k2tog
Knit 2 rounds
Knit 1 round
Now sew two Xs for eyes with your black yarn and sew the ears onto the back of the
head, securing in place by knotting on the inside of the head. (See photos on cover page
and on page 6 for placement).
Knit 1 round and then stuff the head.
Round 12: (ssk, k2tog) (3 times)
Break yarn and pull through the remaining 6 sts. Weave in ends.
5
Arms:
Just off the side of the head (leave about
!” between head and arm), pick up and
knit 4 sts along the top of the body flap:
Working in I-cord, knit 4 rows.

ROW 5: (continue in I-cord) k2, yo, k2
Now, turn and begin working flat
ROW 6: p2tog, p1tbl, p2tog
Now work a 1-stitch picot bind off,
meaning that you will cast on 1 stitch and
bind off 2. Work second arm just as the
first.
The Rat’s Right Leg:
With the back of the rat facing you,

pick up and knit 10 sts across the body
flap and bum, as pictured here:
Flip the rat over, pick up and knit 10

stitches parallel to the back needle:
6
Join and work in the round
Knit 3 rounds
ROUND 4: (ssk, k6, k2tog) (twice)
ROUND 5: knit
ROUND 7: knit
ROUND 9: knit
Lightly stuff the leg now
ROUND 10: ssk, k2tog from first needle,
then ssk, k2tog onto the same needle, so
now you’ll have 4 sts left, all on one
needle – like this:
Work these 4 sts in I-cord for 8 rows.

NEXT ROW: ssk, k2tog
Break yarn and pull through last 2 sts.
The rat’s left leg is worked just as the first, except that you will start picking up your
stitches with the right side facing you instead of the wrong side.
Finishing: Weave in all loose ends. Needle felt a bit of pink wool onto the pads of the
feet and paws and also onto the nose, if you want to. Needle felt the organs (see needle
felting note below) and sew them into the rat with white sewing thread. Use your white
sewing thread to tie 2 knots on either side of the rat’s muzzle, leaving tails about 3/8”
long to form the whiskers (see face detail photo on cover page for whisker example).
Next, wet-block the rat to within an inch of its life. Then pin into the frame of your
choice (I like to use the ‘T’ shaped quilter’s pins for this purpose).
The final step: Hang on the wall, sit back and enjoy your awesome handiwork!
7
A note
on
needle
felting
felting needles and some wool roving in organ-y colors (I like a natural, dark
brown, light blue, pale green, and an orange). If you can't find roving, you can
use bulky weight yarn that you cut up into 2 inch strips and unravel a bit with your
fingers. Then, either with the roving or the unraveled yarn, form a wad that is
approximately the size of the organ you want to make (see photos for ideas).
Carefully begin jabbing the wad with your felting needle. (I place the wad on top
of a piece of upholstery foam and just stab away with the needle.) Try to maintain
the shape a bit with your fingers, but keep them out of the way of the needle - it's
sharp! Keep stabbing until the piece is felted. When your organs are done, you
can needle felt them into the body, and then use a bit of sewing thread to secure
them in place.

Pattern is for non-commercial use only
8
!!! aKNITomy Presents
! ! ! ! !
Knitted organs
to make
vegan biology
projects!
Materials:
DK weight yarn (I use

Berroco Comfort DK
to make it vegan)
1 set of US 2 double
pointed needles
Darning needle
White sewing thread

and needle
!
!
!
!
!
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Aknitomy Presents:: Aknitomical Bat Specimen !"#$%&"' '& (#) (#&# +) ,' - ( ("%.)

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Other knitting tutorials: www.knittinghelp.com

Rows 1, 3 and 5: p all

Row 4: k1, k2tog

Head and Body

ROUND 1: (k1, yo) (6 times)

ROUND 2: (k1, k1tbl, yo) (6 times)

ROUND 3: (k2, k1tbl, yo) (6 times)

ROUND 4: (k3, k1tbl) (6 times) (24 sts total)

NEXT ROW: purl

ROW 1: k6, ssk, k to last 8, k2tog, k6.

repeat these 4 rows twice more

BO 6 sts at beginning of next 2 rows (6 sts remain)

ROW 1: k to last 2 sts, k2tog

ROW 2: p to last 2 sts, p2tog

Continue these 2 rows until 1

With right side facing, pick up and

Now flip bat over, with a 2nd

Join and knit 4 rounds

ROUND 5: (ssk, k2, k2tog) (3 times)

ROUND 7: (ssk, k2tog) (3 times)

Working in I-cord, knit 2 rows

ROW 3: (remaining in I-cord) ssk, k1, k2tog

Working in I-cord, knit 4 rows

ROW 3: (remaining in I-cord) k1, k2tog

Section 2: repeat section 1

Section 4: repeat section 1

Section 5: repeat section 3

Section 6: repeat section 1

Section 7: repeat section 1

ROW 3 and all odd rows: Purl

Section 2: repeat section 1

Section 4: repeat section 1

Section 5: repeat section 3

Section 6: repeat section 1

Section 7: repeat section 1

Section 2: repeat section 1

Section 4: repeat section 1

Section 5: repeat section 3

Section 6: repeat section 1

Section 7: repeat section 1

Section 2: repeat section 1

Section 3: knit all sts

Section 4: repeat section 1

Section 5: repeat section 3

Section 6: repeat section 1

Section 7: repeat section 1

Section 2: repeat section 1

Section 4: repeat section 1

Section 5: repeat section 3

Section 6: repeat section 1

Section 7: repeat section 1

Section 1: k1, DD, DD, k1 (4 sts decreased, 4 sts remain)

Section 2: repeat section 1

Section 3: knit all sts

Section 4: repeat section 1

Section 5: repeat section 3

Section 6: repeat section 1

Section 7: repeat section 1

Section 1: ssk, k2tog (2 sts decreased, 2 sts remain)

Section 2: repeat section 1

Section 3: knit all sts

Section 4: repeat section 1