Strawberry Shortcake by Anya Sadovskaya (zovutka)

Materials:

- cotton yarn, fingering weight, 4-ply (originally: Kirov Camomile/Romashka #0602,

100% cotton, 320m/75g) 50g of skin colored cotton for the body and face
- cotton, fingering weight, similar to that for the body: 50g of pink, some green and
white for the clothes
- mercerized cotton, lace weight, 2-ply (originally: Kirov Camomile or Vita Pelican
cotton, 100% cotton double mercerization, 330m/50 g) - 20g of red for the hair
- embroidery floss: black, green and white for the eyes, brown embroidery floss for the
eyebrows and mouth
- hooks 0.75, mm, 1.25 mm and 1.75mm
- stuffing (Fiberfill, Polyfill)
- wire, 2.5 mm thickness, about 15 cm in length
- sticky tape, electrical tape or masking tape
- red beads number 8 (3 mm) to decorate the dress and the beret
With these materials, the doll will be 23 cm (9 in.) tall.
You can do the clothes and hair from other yarn in other colors, if you wish. You can crochet
the hair, make it with nylon doll hair, make it in another color, the choice is yours!

Abbreviations:
ch – chain
slst – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
hdc – half-double crochet
dc – double crochet
inc – increase (2 sc in one stitch)
dec – decrease (crochet 2 sc together or invisible decrease)

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inc-hdc – increase with half-double crochet (2 hdc in one stitch)
dec-hdc - decrease with half-double crochet (crochet 2 hdc together)
inc-dc – increase with double crochet (2 dc in one stitch)
dec-dc – decrease with double crochet (crochet 2 dc together)
puff stitch – [yarn over, insert hook into the stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop approximately
the length of dc] repeat 3 times (7 loops on hook), pull the yarn through all 7 loops to
complete the puff stitch (translator’s note: it is unclear why the puff stitch is included – it is not
used in this pattern!)

Head and hair

Skin colored yarn, hook 1.25 mm
Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic circle (6)
Rnd 2: inc x 6 (12) (increases will be shifting to get a perfect circle)
Rnd 3: [inc, sc] x 6 (18)
Rnd 4: [2 sc, inc] x 6 (24)
Rnd 5: [inc, 3 sc] x 6 (30)
Rnd 6: 2 sc, inc, [4 sc, inc] x 5, 2 sc (36)
Rnd 7: 4 sc, inc, [5 sc, inc] x 5, sc (42)
Rnd 8: [6 sc, inc] x 6 (48)
Rnd 9: [inc, 7 sc] x 6 (54)
Rnd 10: 2 sc, inc, [8 sc, inc] x 5, 6 sc (60)
Rnd 11: 4 sc, inc, [9 sc, inc] x 5, 5 sc (66)
Rnd 12: 6 sc, inc, [10 sc, inc] x 5, 4 sc (72)
Rnds 12 – 25 (13 rounds): sc around (72)
Rnd 26: (mark the beginning of the round with contrasting yarn, this will be the back of the
head) 19 sc, inc, [2 sc, inc] x 11, 19 sc (84)
Rnds 27 – 32 (6 rounds): sc around (84)

Now we will add hair.

Wind the red yarn around a book, a notebook, a piece of cardboard or anything suitable and
cut strands of yarn approximately 30 cm in length.

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There is a detailed tutorial for attaching hair with step-by-step instructions and pictures which
you can view here.
I made the hair with the same hook that I crocheted the head; the stitches are large enough
for the hook to go through.
Fastening the hair goes as follows: push the hook from inside the head out, through the
magic circle. Hook a strand in the middle and pull it a bit inside, making a loop. With this yarn
on the hook, insert the hook into the next stitch around the magic circle, hook another strand
and pull it through to the inside if the head and through the loop on the hook, making a chain
on the inside of the head. Keep going around from the inside, pulling in strands and hooking
them in a chain. Tighten and pull each loop so that the chain lies as close as possible to the
head. Make 8 complete rounds, starting from the center of the head and the magic circle. For
the first two rounds insert strands in every stitch, and for the next six in every other stitch. If
you’re doing the hair with thinner thread, make the first three rows of hair in every stitch, and
the next five in every other stitch. If you are using yarn thicker than 250m/50g, you will need
to unravel/un-ply the yarn strands into thinner strands and use those. Keep in mind that this
manner of attaching hair makes for a thick head of hair.

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Mark the hair line with contrasting thread, paying attention to the yarn marker you left for the
back of the head and making sure that it’s centered.

Continue adding the hair inside the hair line in every other stitch and every other row. With
thinner yarn, do every stitch in every row. At the hairline border itself insert hair in every stitch
in every row. Fasten the last hair strand with sewing thread, for greater security you can
paste glue on the hair chains inside the head.

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Continue to crochet the head:
Rnd 33: (12 sc, dec) x 6 (78)
In order that the cheeks don’t turn out hexagonal, shift the decrease in every round:
Rnd 34: 2 sc, dec, (11 sc, dec) x 5, 9 sc (72)
Rnd 35: 5 sc, dec, (10 sc, dec) x 5, 5 sc (66)
Rnd 36: (9 sc, dec) x 6 (60)
Rnd 37: 2 sc, dec, (8 sc, dec) x 5, 6 sc (54)
Rnd 38: 5 sc, dec, (7 sc, dec) x 5, 2 sc (48)
Rnd 39: (6 sc, dec) x 6 (42)
Rnd 40: 2 sc, dec, (5 sc, dec) x 5, 3 sc (36)
Rnd 41 series: (4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)
Stuff the head with filler.
Rnd 42: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)
Rnd 43: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
Rnd 44: (sc, dec) x 6 (12)
Fasten off and leave enough thread to shape the mouth, eyes and nose afterwards. Fill the
head completely, making sure that it is full enough to hold the shape well, but also that you
can later tighten mouth stitches with the yarn needle when shaping the face. Make sure that
the head does not end up vertically stretched, it should be fairly flat.

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Now, every hair should be divided further into four strands. Grab the thread near the head,
untwist it a little between the thumb and forefinger and separate a strand with a hook, pulling
it away from the rest. Do the same for the other three strands/plys in the yarn and for every
hair on the head. Gently comb the hair. If you want it to be straight you can spray it with
water before combing.

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Hands
Skin colored yarn, hook 1.25 mm

Middle finger: x2
Rnd 1: 5 sc in magic ring (5)
Rnds 2 – 6 (5 rounds): 5 sc (5)
Fasten off, cut the yarn.

Index and ring fingers: x2

Rnd 1: 5 sc in magic ring (5)
Rnds 2 – 5 (4 rounds): 5 sc (5)
Fasten off, cut the yarn.

Thumb and pinky finger: x2

Rnd 1: 5 sc in magic ring (5)
Rnds 2 – 4 (3 rounds): 5 sc (5)
Fasten of and cut the thread for the thumb.
For the pinky, do not cut or fasten off,
continue to crochet connecting the fingers into a palm.

Right hand:
Rnd 1: 2 sc in the little finger, 2 sc in the ring finger, 2 sc in the middle finger, 5 sc around the
index finger, 3 sc in the middle finger, 3 sc in the ring finger, 3 sc in the little finger (20)
Rnds 2 – 3: sc around (20)
Rnd 4: 7 sc, 1 sc going through one stitch of the palm + one stitch of the thumb, 12 sc (20)

Row 5: 7 sc, 3 sc through stitches of the thumb only, dec (make two sc together, the first sc
going through the palm stitch and the thumb stitch), 11 sc (22)

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Rnd 6: 8 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec (20)
Rnd 7: (3 sc, dec) x 4 (16)
Rnd 8: (2 sc, dec) x 4 (12)
Fill the hand.

Rnd 9: (sc, dec) x 4 (8)

Rnds 10 – 21 (12 rounds): sc around (8)
Fill the hand.
Rnd 22: inc x 4, 4 sc (12) (forming the elbow, increases should be placed in line with the
outer edge of the palm, if not, adjust the placement of increases)
Rnds 23 – 32 (10 rounds): sc around (12)
Fasten off, cut the thread. Fill completely.

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Left hand:
Rnd 1: 3 sc in the little finger, 3 sc in the ring finger, 3 sc in the middle finger, 5 sc around the
index finger, 2 sc in the middle finger, 2 sc in the ring finger, 2 sc in the little finger (20)
Rnds 2 – 3 (2 rounds): sc around(20)
Rnd 4: 12 sc, 1 sc going through one stitch of the palm + one stitch of the thumb, 7 sc (20)
Rnd 5: 11 sc, dec (make two sc together, the first sc going through the palm stitch and the
thumb stitch), 3 sc through stitches of the thumb only, 7 sc (22)
Rnd 6: dec, 10 sc, dec, 8 sc (20)
Rnd 7: (3 sc, dec) x 4 (16)
Rnd 8: (2 sc, dec) x 4 (12)
Fill the hand.
Rnd 9: (sc, dec) x 4 (8)
Rnds 10 – 21 (12 rounds): sc around (8)
Fill.
Rnd 22: sc, inc x 4, 3 sc (12) (forming the elbow, increases should be placed in line with the
outer edge of the palm, if not, adjust the placement of increases)
Rnds 23 – 32 (10 rounds): sc around (12)
Fasten off, cut the yarn. Fill to the top of the hand.

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Legs
Make two. Start with green yarn, hook 1.25 mm.
Rnd 1: ch 6, from the 2nd loop from hook: 4 sc, 3 sc in the last loop, on the other side of the
chain: 3 sc, inc (12)
Rnd 2: inc, 3 sc, inc x 3, 3 sc, inc x 2 (18)
Rnd 3: sc, inc, 3 sc, [sc, inc] x 3, 3 sc, [sc, inc] x 2 (24)
Rnds 4 – 6 (3 rounds): sc around (24)
Change to white thread.
From this round forward, finish each round with a slip stitch in the back loop of the first stitch
of the previous row, tightening it as much as possible. This is not included in the description
of individual rounds. Then, make a single crochet in the first stitch of the previous round,
going through both loops. That way the color changes will not be so visible. Colors will be
changed every three rounds.

Rnds 7 – 11 (5 rounds): sc around (24)

Crochet the heel in rows, going forward and backward in green, the color does not change:
Row 12: ch, turn, 12 sc (12)

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Row 13: ch, turn, dec, 8 sc, dec (10)
Row 14: ch, turn, 10 sc (10)
Row 15: ch, turn, dec, 6 sc, dec (8)
Rows 16 – 17 (2 rows): ch, turn, 8 sc (8)

Continue working in circles:

Round 18: 6 sc from the edge of the heel, 12 sc across the toes, 6 sc to the edge of the heel,
8 sc across the heel (32)
Change to white, and continue crocheting changing colors every 3 rows. Do not forget to slip
stitch at the end of the row.

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Rnd 19: 5 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 13 sc (30)
Rnd 20: 4 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 12 sc (28)
Rnd 21: 3 sc, dec, 10 sc in the front loops, dec, 6 sc, dec x 2, sc (24)
Rnd 22: 2 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 8 sc (22)
Rnds 23 – 31 (9 rounds): sc around (22)
Fill.
Rnd 32: 3 sc, dec, 9 sc, dec, 6 sc (20) (from here on, decreases should be placed on the
sides of the legs. If not, adjust the beginning of the round)
Rnds 33 – 39 (7 rounds): sc around (20)
Rnd 40: 3 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 5 sc (18)
Rnds 41 – 47 (7 rounds): sc around (18)
Rnd 48: 4 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 3 sc (16)
Rnds 49 – 55 (7 rounds): sc around (16)
Rnd 56: 4 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 2 sc (14)
Rnds 57 – 63 (7 rounds): sc around (14)
Fasten off and cut the yarn. Fill the leg.

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The second leg is made in the same way; just do not cut the thread in the end.

Body
Connecting the legs:
Rnd 64: 5 sc in the right leg, ch 3, 14 sc starting from the 13th stitch of the left leg, 3 sc in the
chain, 9 sc in the right leg (34)
Pay special attention to the position of the feet - if they turn out crooked, move the point of
attachment the required number of stitches.

Rnd 65: 5 sc, inc, sc, inc, 6 sc, inc x 2, 6 sc, inc x 3, 6 sc, inc x 2, sc (43)
Rnd 66: sc around (43)
Rnd 67: 5 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 33 sc (45)
Rnds 68 – 70 (3 rounds): sc around (45)
Rnd 71: 20 sc, dec, 20 sc, dec, sc (43)
Rnd 72: 8 sc, dec, 33 sc (42)
Continue working with skin colored yarn in a spiral.
Rnd 73 (in back loops only): (5 sc, dec) x 6 (36)

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Rnd 74: sc around (36)
Rnd 75: (4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)
Rnds 76 – 91 (16 rounds): sc around (30)

Attaching the hands:

Rnd 92: 2 sc, 3 sc together with the right hand (from
10th sc to 8th sc of the right hand), 12 sc, 3 sc together
with the left hand (from 5th sc to third sc of the left
hand), 10 sc (30)

Pay special attention to the location of hands – hands

should be parallel to the body, elbows pointing back - if
it turns out crooked, move the point of attachment the
required number of stitches)

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Rnd 93: 2 sc, 9 sc in the right hand, 12 sc, 9
sc in the left hand, 10 sc (42)
Rnd 94: sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 7 sc,
dec, 9 sc (38)
Rnd 95: dec, 2 sc, 3 sc together, 2 sc, dec, 8
sc, dec, 2 sc, 3 sc together, 2 sc, dec, 8 sc
(30)
Rnd 96: 2 sc, 3 sc together, 2 sc, dec, 4 sc,
dec, 2 sc, 3 sc together, 2 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec
(22)
Fill the body with stuffing.
Rnd 97: sc, 3 sc together, 8 sc, 3 sc together,
sc 7 (18)
Rnd 98: (sc, dec) x 6 (12)
Fill further.
Rnds 99 – 101 (3 rounds): sc around (12)
Fasten off, cut thread leaving enough to attach the head.

Shoes
Pink yarn, hook 1.25 mm
Make two.
Rnd 1: ch 10, starting from the second loop
from the hook: 8 sc, 3 sc in the last loop of the
chain, on the other side of the chain: 7 sc, inc
(20)
Rnd 2: inc, 7 sc, inc x 3, 7 sc, inc x 2 (26)
Rnd 3: sc, inc, 7 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, sc, inc, 7 sc,
inc, 2 sc, inc (32)
Rnd 4: inc, 11 sc, (inc, sc) x 2, inc, 11 sc, (inc,
sc) x 2 (38)
Rnd 5: 3 sc, inc, 7 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 7
sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 2 sc (44)
Rnd 6: sc around in the back lops only (44)
Rnds 7 – 8 (2 rounds): 13 sc, 16 PSN , 15 sc
(44)
Rnd 9: 13 sc, 3 hdc, dec-hdc, 6 hdc , dec-hdc, 3 hdc, 15 sc (42)
Rnd 10: 13 sc, dec-hdc, (2 hdc, dec-hdc) x 3, 15 sc (38)
Fasten off and cut the yarn.

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Make shoe straps. Attach the thread to the 28th stitch of the 10th row and ch 10, attach the
chain with a slst to the 9th stitch of the 10th row, slst in the 8th stitch of the 10th row, crochet
back 10 sc along the chain and slst in the 31st stitch of the 10th row of the shoes. Fasten off,
cut and weave in the ends.

Dress
White yarn, hook 1.25 mm
Ch 30, slst in the first loop of the chain, closing the circle.
Rnd 1: sc around (30)
Rnd 2: 7 sc, inc, 14 sc, inc, 7 sc (32)
Rnd 3: 4 sc, ch 8, skip next 8 stitches, 8 sc, ch 8, skip next 8 stitches, 4 sc (32)
Rnd 4: 4 sc, 8 sc in chain, 8 sc, 8 sc in chain, 4 sc (32)
Rnds 5 – 10 (6 rounds): sc around (32)
Change color to pink.
Rnd 11: sc around in the back loops (32)
Rnd 12: ch 2, 32 dc, slst (32)
Rnd 13: ch, (3 sc, long sc starting from 11th round) x 8, slst (32)

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 Rnd 14: ch 2, (3 dc, inc-dc) x 8, slst. (40)
Rnd 15: ch, (4 sc, long sc in 13th row) x 8, slst (40)
Rnd 16: ch 2, 40 dc, slst (40)
Rnd 17: ch, (4 sc, long sc in 15th row) x 8, slst (40)
Rnd 18: ch 2, (4 dc, inc-dc) x 8, slst (48)
Rnd 19: ch (5 sc, long sc in 17th row) x 8, slst (48)
Rnd 20: ch 2, 48 dc, slst (48)
Rnd 21: ch, (5 sc, long sc in 19th row) x 8, slst (48)
Rnd 22: ch 2, (5 dc, inc-dc) x 8, slst (56)
Rnd 23: ch, (6 sc, long sc in 21st row) x 8, slst (56)
Rnd 24: ch 2, 56 dc, slst (56)
Rnd 25: ch, (6 sc, long sc in 23rd row) x 8, slst (56)
Rnd 26: ch 2, (6 dc, inc-dc) x 8, slst (64)
Rnd 27: ch, (7 sc, long sc in 25th row) x 8, slst (64)
Rnd 28: ch 2, (7 dc, inc-dc) x 8, slst (72)
Rnd 29: ch, (8 sc, long sc in 27th row) x 8, slst (72)
Rnd 30: (ch, slst) in each stitch to the end of row
Fasten off, cut and weave in the end. Embroider the dress with red beads.

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Dress the doll, pulling up its arms and pulling them through the armholes. Crochet the
sleeves in white while the dress in on the doll.

Right sleeve:
Start from the back, attach yarn to the first stitch of the shoulder strap
Rnd 1: 8 sc along the strap, hook both between the shoulder stitch and the dress stitch and
the next two dress stitches and crochet them together, slst in front loops in next 6, hook both
between the next two dress stitches and the shoulder stitch and the dress stitch and crochet
them together (16)
Rnd 2: inc x 8, dec, slst in front loops in next 4, dec (22)
Rnd 3: 4 sc, inc, 6 sc, inc, 4 sc, in front loops: [inc, 4 sc, inc] (26)
Rnds 4 – 5 (2 rounds): sc around (26)
Rnd 6: 4 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec) x 2 (22)
Rnd 7: dec x 8, slst (do not finish the row)
Fasten off, cut yarn and weave in the end.

Crochet the left sleeve similarly, only start in the opposite direction.

Beret
Pink yarn, hook 1.25 mm
Rnd 1: ch 2, 12 dc, slst in the magic circle (12)
Rnd 2: ch 2, inc-dc x 12, slst (24)
Rnd 3: ch, (sc, long sc in dc of 1st row) x 12, slst (24)
Rnd 4: ch 2, (dc, inc-dc) x 12, slst (36)
Rnd 5: ch, (2 sc, long sc in third row) x 12, slst (36)
Rnd 6: ch 2, (2 dc, inc-dc) x 12, slst (48)
Rnd 7: ch, (3 sc, long sc in 5th row) x 12, slst (48)
Rnd 8: ch 2, (3 dc, inc-dc) x 12, slst (60)
Rnd 9: ch, (4 sc, long sc in 7th row) x 12, slst (60)
Rnd 10: ch 2, (4 dc, inc-dc) x 12, slst (72)
Rnd 11: ch, (5 sc, long sc in 9th row) x 12, slst (72)
Rnd 12: ch 2, (5 dc, inc-dc) x 12, slst (84)
Rnd 13: ch, (6 sc, long sc in 11th row) x 12, slst (84)
Rnd 14: ch 2, (6 dc, inc.dc) x 12, slst (96)
Rnd 15: ch, (7 sc, long sc in 13th row) x 12, slst (96)
Rnd 16: ch 2, (7 dc, inc-dc) x 12, slst (108)
Rnd 17: ch, (8 sc, long sc in 15th row) x 12, slst (108)

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Rnd 18: ch 2, 108 dc, slst (108)
Rnd 19: ch, (8 sc, long sc in 17th row) x
12, slst (108)
Rnd 20: ch 2, 108 dc, slst (108)
Rnd 21: ch, (8 sc, long sc in 19th row) x
12, slst (108)
Rnd 22: ch 2, (7 dc, dec-dc) x 12, slst (96)
Rnd 23: ch, (7 sc, long sc in 21st row) x
12, slst (96)
Rnd 24: ch 2, (6 dc, dec-dc) x 12, slst (84)
Rnd 25: ch, (6 sc, long sc in 23rd row) x
12, slst (84)
Rnd 26: ch 2, (5 dc, dec-dc) x 12, slst (72)
Rnd 27: ch, (5 sc, long sc in 25th row) x
12, slst (72)
Change to white.
Rnd 28: (11 sc, inc) x 6 (78)
Rnds 29 – 31 (3 rounds): sc around (78)
Fasten off, cut the yarn and weave in the
end.

Visor
Green yarn – two strands held together, hook 1.75 mm
Row 1: ch 13, starting from the second chain from the hook: 3 sc in one loop, 10 sc, 3 sc in
last loop, ch, turn (16)
Row 2: inc, (4 sc, inc) x 3, ch, turn (20)
Row 3: inc, 18 sc, inc, ch, turn (22)
Row 4: inc, 5 sc, inc, 8 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, ch, turn (26)
Row 5 : inc, 24 sc, inc, ch (28)
Crochet around the visor with crab stitch/ reverse single crochet. Fasten off, cut the thread
leving enough yarn for sewing.
Sew the visor to the beret. Embroider the beret with red beads. Attach a button or a pompon
to the top.

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Now comes the most important stage. The whole look of the doll depends on this. There is
no point of telling you about the rows and stitches, since no head turns out completely the
same. Do what looks great to you. I have found through trial and error that the doll looks
more attractive the shorter distance between the corners of her mouth. The mouth should be
placed in the center, visually between the two cheeks and in the middle between the row with
increases and the end of the head.

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21
Please be careful with the eyes! The thicker the yarn you use, the rougher they will turn out!
Don’t sew anything or fasten any threads until you are completely satisfied. Attach with pins
and position perfectly.

Forming the face

Define the visual middle of the face and, with a yarn needle, make a stitch coming out at one
stitch to the right of the center in the 25th round and going in two stitches to the left, making a
little nose. Repeat a few times.
When you are finished with the nose, count 3 sc to the left and 6 rows down of the nose.
Bring the yarn out from the left nose stitch to this spot. Insert the needle in one stitch to the
left to make the left side of the mouth. Bring the needle out at the same stitch 6 rows above –
that will make the indentation for the left eye. Pulling the thread a little, make a few stitches
going back and forth at these two points. Repeat the same thing for the other side, paying
attention that there should be 9 - 10 stitches between the corners of the mouth. Fasten the
thread in the neck opening.

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Eyes
Embroidery floss two strands held together, steel hook 0.75 mm, starting with black.

If you are making a doll from different weight yarn, you need to adjust your measures to fit
the head. The head circumference of my doll is 18 cm/7 in (without hair), so the width of an
eye should be 1.5 cm/0.4 in .To calculate the size of your eye you need to multiply the head
circumference in cm by 1.5 and divide by 18. Choose the appropriate number of strands of
floss and an appropriate hook to get the needed size of the eye.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc x 6 (12)
Rnd 3: (inc, sc) x 6 (18)
Change the thread to green and make a slst in the back loop only of the first stitch of the
previous row. Continue crocheting in both loops, starting from the same stitch you slst into:
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
Rnd 5: (sc, inc, 2 sc) x 6 (30)
Change the thread to white and make a slst in the back loop only of the first stitch of the
previous row. Continue crocheting in both loops, starting from the same stitch you slst into:

for the left eye:

Rnd 6: 4 sc, inc, 4 sc, 10 slst in back loops only,
4 sc, inc, 6 slst in back loops only (32)
Rnd 7: slst, ch, 4 sc, slst

for the right eye:

Rnd 6: 3 sc, inc, 6 slst in back loops only, inc, 4
sc, 10 slst in the back loops only, 5 sc (32)
Rnd 7: slst, ch, 4 sc, slst

Cut the thread, leaving enough for sewing. Use

the same thread to embroider the white shine
on the pupils.

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Haircut
Tie all the hair on top of the head, comb it neatly and cut off any excess length.

Remove the tie and gently comb the hair again. Separate a small portion of hair for bangs
with a crochet hook (try to divide the strands so that there is no bald spot). Cut the bangs to
desired length (better cut less in one go, and readjust the length of bangs to suit the face).

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Ears
Embroider the curve of the ears using chain stitch and skin colored yarn. Without cutting the
thread, crochet 1 row of sc in the embroidered stitches, starting from the bottom and going to
the top. Fasten off, cut the yarn and weave in the end.

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Sew eyes to the head, attaching it at each stitch so that the eye lays flat. With black floss
embroider around the eyes and make eyelashes. Embroider the mouth and eyebrows using
brown thread.

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Take a wire of about 15 cm/6 in. in length and form a frame, as in the photo. Fold the wire
and wrap the ends in masking tape. Insert the wire into the body so that a piece is sticking
out.

Put the head on the wire sticking from the body and attach it to the neck.

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