ROYAL ENFIELD SCRAM 411 / NORTH VANCOUVER ISLAND / MOTO FIRST AID KITS

890
nture
adve un
in
Two Wheels
r
a Time of Wa
On Assignment
in Ukraine CrazyP-oFwerful!
&
Should You Ride
Solo or Not?
A Peek at the
Pros & Cons

March/April 2023 | No. 133

$7.99 US / 8.99 CAN

Nelson-Rigg Hurricane 2.0 FLY Racing Off Grid Jacket

Dual Backpack & Trail Pack New and Improved!
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 TS
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26
14

FEATURES RIDE REPORTS

14 First Ride: 2023 KTM 890 Adventure 32 Unexpected Connections
What We Asked for and More! North Vancouver Island
by Dan DiMaio by Cheryl Jones

20 Good Company or Going Solo? 38 Two Wheels in a Time of War

The Pros & Cons of Riding the World by Neale Bayly
With (or Without) a Friend
by Yan Giovannoni

26 Royal Enfield Scram 411 ON THE COVER: Dan DiMaio testing KTM’s new 2023
Dirt on Your Feet, More Fun on the Street 890 Adventure in Portugal. Photo by KISKA GmbH.
Artwork by Carl Parker.
by Carl Parker

20 32
 38

8
GEAR AND MORE
TO EXPLORE
8 Product Reviews FLY Racing Off Grid jacket •
Nelson-Rigg Hurricane 2.0 Backpack/Tail Pack •
Touratech Destino Ultimate GTX boots

46 Tuning Up: How to Prepare a

Motorcyling First Aid Kit
A Five-Step Guide
by Mitchel de Jager

50 Media Review Eldorado to the Klondike by

Nick Adams
by Thomas Porter

46
 STAFF
PUBLISHER Carl Parker
SENIOR EDITOR Paul H Smith
ASSOCIATE EDITOR Zac Kurylyk
MANAGING EDITOR Christian Lowe
FIELD CONTRIBUTOR Justin Coffey
CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Sam Manicom
ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Dan DiMaio
ACCOUNTING Wenling Parker

CONTRIBUTORS
FEATURE Yan Giovannoni
RIDE REPORTS Neale Bayly
There’s Never a Better Time for Learnin’ Cheryl Jones
TUNING UP Mitchel de Jager
Spring is here, and while many are planning their rides for the summer, figuring
REVIEWS Aaron Demo
out their gear needs, and coordinating schedules, there’s one thing that may not Andrew Nguyen
be on the list but should be—and that’s training. Thomas Porter
It’s always been wise for riders of all skill levels to continue their motorcycle PHOTOGRAPHY Neal Bayly
training. Honing our skills, particularly in adventure motorcycling, adds to both Cheryl Jones
KTM
the fun and safety of our experiences. Whether it’s an intro to ADV riding, a course KISKA GmbH
on advanced sand riding or hill climbing, crossing borders and prepping for Ray McKenzie
another continent or an RTW, or a motorcycle-specific first-aid course, there’s Kiran Ridley
always room to add new “tools” to the motorcyclist’s skill set. @thegreatridealong
With the increasing enthusiasm for adventure and dual-sport riding, training
options and availability are rapidly proliferating. While the old standbys are still CREATIVE SERVICES
AGENCY Penn Creative
plying their trade, many new schools have cropped up along with fresh and more
CREATIVE DIRECTOR Sierra Skidmore
innovative types of courses specific to our genres of riding. And it’s only getting
MANAGING DIRECTOR Jenny Strauss
better! In the past, you might have needed to budget for and carve out a week
PROJECT MANAGER Sarah Keen
or more to get training, but industry growth has prompted far more options, GRAPHIC DESIGNER Amy Scheidegger Ducos
including there potentially being schools and classes much closer to where you
live. Add to that the ever-growing calendar of adventure motorcycle rallies and EDITORIAL OFFICE
events that have training seminars baked into their schedules, and it’s getting to Info@AdventureMotorcycle.com
the point where there’s no excuse not to get trained. AdventureMotorcycle.com
While we’re bursting with plans for a summer of awesome adventures, 571-485-2910
it’s important to remember that there’s always more to learn, to perfect, and SUBSCRIPTIONS: Digital subscriptions to
master. And as the industry grows, there are far more opportunities to gain Adventure Motorcycle are available for $15.00 per year.
Print subscriptions are $35.00 per year and include
that knowledge than ever before. free digital edition access. Adventure Motorcycle is
So, while you’re getting your gear ready, and mapping out those routes, get published six times per year.
online and search for nearby training that’ll add to your skills before tackling ISSN 2832-5540
those big adventures—you’ll be more confident, a safer rider, and have much MOVING? Send address changes to
more fun if you do. Info@AdventureMotorcycle.com

Is there a time when that little bit of extra training saved your bacon? Send
us an email at Content@AdventureMotorcycle.com and let us know.
Ride Safe,
DISCLAIMER: The content, subject matter,
and views provided by authors within this magazine
are not necessarily the views of Adventure Motorcycle.
Actions depicted in this magazine, whether
photographic or journalistic, are all of or by
experienced professionals. We do not recommend
attempting anything on these pages without the
proper training, preparation and time.

Christian Lowe, Managing Editor

Printed in the USA with Soy Ink.
Visit AdventureMotorcycle.com or follow us @ADVMotoMag Copyright © 2023 by Adventure Motorcycle
Magazine. All rights reserved. Adventure Motorcycle
for more content. Email Info@AdventureMotorcycle.com to
Magazine and ADVMoto are trademarks of
tell us your thoughts on this editorial. Adventure Motorcycle Magazine.

6 March/April 2023
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 S
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FLY Racing Off Grid Jacket

PR

by Aaron Demo

If you’re shopping for new adventure gear, you need to check out
FLY Racing’s new and improved options. As an example, the recently
released Off Grid jacket is packed with features that are geared toward
both rider comfort and protection.
Using Hydraguard Pro technology, the jacket is both windproof and
waterproof while still maintaining breathability. The removable quilted
thermal liner and exceptional ventilation make this a true four-season
jacket. I have ridden with it in temperatures in the low 40°Fs with just a
t-shirt under it, and it was plenty warm. When temperatures warm up,
you can easily remove the liner.
Not only is it warm, but the ventilation is impressive. There are
two zip-down panels on the chest, zippers on the end of the sleeves,
generous vents on the underarms, and another huge zip-down panel
on the back. With everything open, the air really moves. The jacket also PROS
includes CE Level 1 removable armor for the elbows, shoulder, and back Impressive quality and
as well as high-abrasion fabric on critical areas. features at the price point
I wore the Off Grid jacket to March Moto Madness this year, which
never fails to throw four seasons at you over the course of the week. Truly a four-season jacket
Over the event, I was impressed with this gear’s versatility. Through Excellent seven-point
bouts of rain, I stayed dry and was easily able to adjust to different ventilation system
riding temperatures during the day without having to pack extra gear.
The YKK zipper pulls are large enough to adjust with gloves while CONS
riding to help regulate temperatures. The soft collar comes with a
magnetic closure that takes a few seconds to figure out, but once you There is no Off Grid pant
do, it snaps on and off easily, even when wearing heavy gloves. There to go with the jacket
is also a magnetic flap that covers the zipper in front, which quickly
locks into place when you don the jacket. The rain hood integrated
with the collar does a great job keeping out water on rainy days and
keeps your neck warm on cold days.
If an all-around jacket is what you are in the market for, the Off Grid
jacket should be on your list.
Check out their website at FlyRacing.com to see all of the riding gear
they have available. The Off Grid jacket is available in grey or black and
comes in a variety of sizes, including tall sizes. I found the jacket fit true
to the “American” size. MSRP: $449.95 FlyRacing.com
SHOP

Get your
ADVMoto Gear at
ADVMotoShop.com

8 March/April 2023
Nelson-Rigg Hurricane
2.0 Backpack/Tail Pack
by Andrew Nguyen

Tail, tank, and saddle bags are some of the most useful and popular
accessories for dual-sport and adventure motorcycles. Affordable
options that work across multiple platforms are popular for riders that
own multiple bikes. Nelson-Rigg understands this and continues to
develop solutions that think outside the box, making cost-effective
products that work in an array of situations.
There are many tail bags on the market that convert into backpacks,
but Nelson-Rigg flip-flops their approach with the Hurricane Backpack/
Tail Pack. I’ve spent three years traveling and camping with the
original Hurricane Backpack 20L. My Hurricane primarily stays in
“backpack mode” except for the occasional motorcycle trip from TX to
VA, or when it’s mounted to my SUV’s top carrier.
So, what’s new in the Hurricane Backpack 2.0? It’s now available
in a 30L whereas the previous models were 20L and 40L. I praised
the older 20L version for its ideal capacity, as it was able to hold
a weekend’s worth of clothes. Capacity wise, the new design sits
squarely in the middle of the previous options, making it just big
enough to hold camping gear—mainly a tent, sleeping pad, and a
sleeping bag. But in order for all that to fit you’ll need to opt for the
most compact options on the market. It’s also compact enough to
use as a regular backpack and will squeeze into an overhead bin on
flights. The previous 40L option was a bit cumbersome to backpack
with and worked best as a “haul everything” tail bag. Nelson-Rigg’s
decision to remove it from their line-up makes sense, since they also
offer Hurricane Dry Duffle Bags that can attach to luggage racks.
The Hurricane 2.0 Backpack/Tail Pack features improved ventilation PROS
panels against the back and straps. The MOLLE webbing front panel
is a standout feature. On the inside of the panel, you’ll find a mesh Interior compartment is 100%
pocket and a clear plastic pocket, while the older design had waterproof
a removable, “flippable” panel (MOLLE on one side, plastic sleeve One of the most useful bags I own
in on the other). Affordable compared to the
One of my favorite updates is the carry handles on the bag’s sides. competition
They’re beefy and really make it easy to carry or throw on/off a bike.
Inside the main compartment, there’s a laptop slot and some pen
holders. The roll top is easy to use, with multiple buckles to keep it CONS
closed, and a purge valve allows air to escape so the bag can stay as Could use a few extra stitches for extra
compact as possible. There’s also a bottle holder harness on the side. durability on the Velcro back panels
The Hurricane 2.0 also features a new, patented RIGG STRAP 30L is a bit large for a dual-sport
system for secure mounting to luggage racks. When cinched down,
the clamps have significant bite, reducing the chances of the system
coming loose. And the shoulder straps can now be tucked away
behind Velcro panels on the back of the bag for a clean look and a gadgets and gizmos I’ve acquired over the years, I can’t
flat base. think of another product I’ve used more than these
Hurricane bags offer industry-leading waterproofing thanks to bags. Whether by adventure motorcycle, overlanding
their UV-coated PVC tarpaulin construction, which can be hosed SUV, flights or floating down a river in an inner tube,
off when dirty. And the new design delivers all the ruggedness and the Hurricane Backpack/Tail Pack reliably gets the stuff
versatility that the adventure motorcycle world can throw at it, yet you need to the places you’re going. MSRP: $169.95
it’s easier on the wallet than many others. Of all the motorcycle gear, NelsonRigg.com

AdventureMotorcycle.com 9
 S
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Touratech Destino
PR

Ultimate GTX Boots

by Christian Lowe

Serious adventure riders and trainers say if you’re going to go off-

pavement, particularly in tricky terrain where a drop is likely, it’s critical
to wear boots protecting your foot and ankle. The best boots will resist
impact as well as torsional forces that could cause a ride-ending injury.
The answer has usually been heavy-duty motocross boots that offer
robust protection from impact and twists but sacrifice control feel,
off-bike mobility, and (least importantly) looks. Big, bulky, hard to walk
in, and stiff—all typical characteristics of truly “safe” adventure boots
for rugged conditions.
That all changed with the latest offering from Touratech. A super-
spec’d, incredibly rugged, and comfortable ADV boot, Touratech’s
Destino Ultimate GTX is jam-packed with features engineered to keep
the rider safe and secure no matter what a trail throws at them.
Designed in cooperation with Rev’It!, the Destino Ultimate GTX is
built with foot and ankle protection technology the company calls a
“Dynamic Support Frame.” Think of it like knee braces for the feet that
limit range of motion to prevent hyperextension, protecting the ankle
and foot from violent torque. The calf support, injection-molded ankle
cup, and stability frame combine not only to decrease potential injury
but also help better support the rider while standing.
The Destino Ultimate GTX boots feature a grippy Vibram Apex sole
that allows for a good tactile feel on the controls and grip on the
pegs without too much bulk. The boots are wrapped in comfortable
SEESOFT foam with an OrthoLite insole to keep the rider’s feet snug. PROS
Much of the surface of the boot is layered with abrasion-resistant
SuperFabric that’s designed to protect the boot from cuts and scrapes Confidence-inspiring protection for the
while also decreasing adhesion to rocks and dirt in a slide. foot, ankle, and shin
The boots feature built-in shin protectors and are wrapped in water- Comfortable footbed and sole with
proof Gore-Tex to keep the feet dry in those deeper water crossings. excellent grip
And say goodbye to all those pesky buckles—the Destino Ultimate Fully waterproof
GTXs use the Boa lacing system that ratchets down for an easy fit with
gloved hands.
Experienced adventure riders and instructors are right—there’s CONS
simply no comparison between so-called “ADV boots” and purpose- Price may be out of reach for most
built offroad boots. The Destino Ultimate GTX boots nail that unique Hard to fit most ADV pants over the boot
blend of comfort, safety, and style most adventure riders need for
multi-day trips to far-flung destinations. Too stiff to walk in for anything other than
While the Destinos were comfortable and delivered a confidence- short distances
inspiring interface between the foot and bike, they’re not really
designed for a quick trip to the farmer’s market or weekend jaunt to
the mountain twisties. They’re way more boot than that, so think of Lastly, while they do feel Gucci on the pegs, the
the Destino Ultimate GTXs as the set you take when the conditions are Destino Ultimate GTX boots also carry a Gucci price
going to get rough. tag, out of reach for all but the most hardcore
This is partly because they are very bulky. It’s difficult to fit all but adventure riders. But if you want the best protection
the widest ADV pants over the hard-shell shin protectors, cutting in a package optimized for multi-day rides in rough
down on the available wardrobe an ADV rider can choose. The Boa terrain, there are few ADV options as feature-packed
lacing system is convenient for sure, but the length of the laces makes as the Touratech Destino Ultimate GTX boots.
it hard to tighten the boots from bottom to top for a customized fit. MSRP: $839 Touratech-USA.com

10 March/April 2023
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Repeat as often as possible.

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cel ebr at ing order a free catalog:

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FI

14 March/April 2023
 H
by Dan DiMaio | photos by KTM/KISKA Gmb

WHAT W E A S K E D F O R A N D M O R E !
KTM brought us to Óbidos, Portugal, to ring out the new 2023 890 Adventure on a wide array of
country twisties and a ton of super-fun off-road routes at various elevations. Let me assure you that
the Big Orange brand knows how to engineer a crazy-fun and powerful parallel twin, which is now
lighter, more compact, and puts out more ponies. With redesigned bodywork, seat, TFT display, and
more updated features, there’s a lot to like in this new iteration of an all-around favorite.

ENGINE
First and foremost, let’s talk about the compact LC8c parallel twin
powerplant. For 2023, the engineers made it tighter and lighter, along
with new fuel mapping and airbox to bring the 889cc parallel twin up to
105 HP with around 74 ft.-lb. torque. Portugal was a great playground
to put the motorcycle through its paces on a variety of on- and off-road
sections featuring sand, rocks and ruts.
The motor performed flawlessly on the mixed terrain with plenty of
low-end grunts and lots of over-rev. I found the sweet spot was in the
5,500–7,000 RPM range, while it pulls hard in the upper RPM range. As I
previously spent time on the 2020 KTM 790 and 790R, it’s amazing how
much difference 90cc makes.
Also worth noting, the first major service (valve check) isn’t
until 15,000 km (9,320 miles). This is impressive, considering how
performance-oriented this powerplant is.

TECHNOLOGY
Although the original 790/890 had a great TFT display, the 2023 model
comes with an all-new five-inch TFT display, which is bright and easy to
5" easy-to-read
read in all light conditions. Controls for the engine modes remain on the
TFT displays.
left side of the handlebars, also easy to use.
The bike has powerful built-in safety electronics, but some online
reviewers have criticized the new Demo mode. How that works is the
motorcycle is delivered in “unlocked” (Demo) mode for the first 1,500
km (~1,000 miles), allowing the owner to experience all the built-in
technology upgrades: heated grips, cruise control, quickshifter,
and Rally mode. At 1,000 miles, the rider can decide which options

AdventureMotorcycle.com 15
 they want and pay for specific features. If, for example,
Easy wheelies the owner lives in Florida or a warm climate area, they
for the 890. probably won’t need heated grips. Or, if a rider doesn’t
intend to spend much time off-road, they probably
wouldn’t need Rally mode.
While some find the idea of receiving something fully
unlocked, then having features taken away question-
able, this hopefully reduces the initial price. That said, it’s
an interesting take on paying for just the features you
need/want, and we’ll have to see how this pans out. In
theory, the Adventure R version should have everything
unlocked, but we can’t confirm it at this time.
Most modes (Street, Rain, Off-Road) are self-
explanatory, apart from the Rally mode, which
allows the rider to control the level of traction control
interaction all on the fly while in motion. After playing
with Street and Rain mode, I pretty much left it in Rally
mode and just adjusted the level of traction control
between road and dirt sections. The beauty of the
new system is that when you turn the motorcycle
off for a quick stop, the settings stay where they
were set previously. So, no more going through the
modules to get it back to where you left them.
There is an optional connectivity unit, or “CU,”
that ties into the KTMconnect app and the TFT
display. This allows you to use your phone for
turn-by-turn navigation, phone calls, and music, all
visible on the bike’s display. Also, the dash looks to
have been designed to add your phone to a clear
easy-to-see position. Since many still use their
phone for navigation (which we recommend in all
conditions), having it off the handlebars and not
needing to get extra brackets is a welcome touch.

Confident road
manners.
Convenient, easy-to-use center stand.

16 March/April 2023
 CHASSIS/
SUSPENSION
The 2023 KTM 890 Adventure comes with new WP
Apex 43mm open cartridge front forks with full
rebound, compression, and preload adjustability.
The Adventure model is optimized for two-up
adventure touring. We were able to push its limits
off-road, and the suspension did a great job of
soaking up the terrain with the stock settings. If you
want to tweak the settings, the fork and shock are
both fully adjustable to suit your riding style.
The new 890 has a re-tuned WP Apex shock with
rebound adjuster and hand-turn preload adjuster.
With approximately eight inches of travel, the rear
soaks up big hits with little-to-no bottoming.
The motorcycle’s lightweight 21-in. front and 18-in.
rear spoked tubeless wheels are wrapped in Pirelli
Rally STR tires, delivering a nice balance of on-road
confidence and off-road grip in dry conditions. We
encountered everything from wet pavement to deep
sand and light mud. The Pirellis performed as they
should, although we recommend using your favorite
tires for your riding conditions.
Keeping things stable and upright, the newly
updated cornering-sensitive ABS uses a 6D sensor
to continuously monitor the dynamic state of the
motorcycle when under hard ABS braking, adjusting the
braking power to keep things upright. In addition to the
cornering ABS, KTM uses an effective steering stabilizer
to keep the front end in check while traversing technical
off-road terrain at speed.
KTM Power Parts
pannier racks.
New seat with two
adjustable positions.
ST YLING/ERGONOMICS
Owners either loved, hated, or tolerated the previous generation’s
looks. I loved that the previous generation had more of a “dirt”
look but not so much on long road stints due to the lack of rider
wind protection. The 2023 890 Adventure brings the best of both
worlds together with an all-new windscreen that reduces helmet
buffeting. The redesigned bodywork also pulls the windscreen,
headlight, and shrouds together in a rally-inspired aesthetic that
looks good and is also functional.
Now, let’s talk about something for your tush. KTM redesigned
the seat, adding 10mm of varying-density foam to make the
stock seat super comfortable. It has two adjustments of low
(33 in.) and high (33.9 in.), giving you options for more feet on
the ground if needed.
All in all, the updates to the iconic KTM 890 were what riders
asked for and then some. Also, the KTM Powerparts catalog has
over 150 add-ons for the 890, which can help make the new
2023 890 Adventure your own.
AdventureMotorcycle.com 17
 CONCLUSION
As the middle-weight segment continues to grow, users
will likely be even more confused as to which motorcycle
is best for them. With new options coming from not only
European but also Japanese manufacturers, the mid-sized
market has never been more exciting... at least in the U.S.
Riding KTM’s new 890 Adventure checks many boxes
for me. I dig the new styling, power, suspension, and ride
height. Also, the MSRP of just under $14k Which way to the dirt?
places it in range of some stiff competition.
Stay tuned to ADVMoto for a long-term review
after we get our hands on a press motorcycle KTM 2023 890 ADVENTURE SPECIFICATIONS
later this year. KTM.com
ENGINE Parallel twin 4-stroke DOHC

BORE X STROKE 90.7mm x 68.8mm

DISPLACEMENT 889cc

COOLING Liquid-cooled with water/oil heat exchanger

EMS Bosch EMS

HORSEPOWER 105 @ 8,000 RPM

TORQUE 74 @ 6,500 RPM

TRANSMISSION 6-speed (optional quickshifter)

CLUTCH PASC anti-hopping clutch with cable pull

FRONT SUSPENSION WP Apex 43mm inverted with adjustable

rebound and compression with 7.9 in. travel

REAR SUSPENSION WP Apex monoshock with adjustable

spring preload and rebound damping
with 7.9 in. travel

FRONT BRAKE Dual 4-piston calipers with 320mm rotors

REAR BRAKE Single 2-piston floating caliper with

260mm rotor

FRONT WHEEL 21-in. spoked tubeless aluminum wheel mated

to Pirelli Rally STR 90/90-21

REAR WHEEL 18-in. spoked tubeless aluminum wheel mated

to Pirelli Rally STR 150/70-18

GROUND CLEARANCE 9.3 in.

SEAT HEIGHT 33 in. in low position | 33.9 in. in the

890 attack mode. high position

FUEL CAPACITY 5.3 gal.

FIRST MAJOR SERVICE 15,000 km (9,321 miles)

WEIGHT 441 lb. | ~474 lb. wet

18 March/April 2023
 THE PROS & CONS OF RIDING THE
WORLD WITH (OR WITHOUT) A FRIEND

Entering Mongolia on my own was

a daunting decision. Complete
freedom for sure, but also some
stress of riding a country that is 2.3
times the size of Texas… but with a
population of only 3 million.

20 March/April 2023
 by Yan Giovannoni

S hould you start a motorcycle

adventure solo or with others? That
depends on your route, personality,
budget, courage, willingness to take risks,
and, most importantly, your determination.
The truth is there are pros and cons to riding
around the world alone or with another. Having
done it solo, with mates, and as a couple, I’d like
to share my experiences with you.

O My Solo Journey from Europe to Mongolia

Let’s start with an anecdote: Back in June 2012, I was
halfway through a motorcycle journey from Spain to Japan.
At the time, I was alone in the middle of Russia, on my way to
the Mongolian border. I knew that Mongolia was going to be
challenging. It’s a country more than twice the size of Texas,
with less than 10 percent of its population… and barely any
roads! Considering the possibility of a breakdown or injury in
the middle of the endless barren steppes, I decided, out of a
concern for safety, to team up with another European
rider. We met in Novosibirsk, a Russian city 12 hours from
the border. My new companion swiftly suggested we
take a detour to explore the breathtaking Altai region,
After a long day of riding, setting up
nestled between Kazakhstan and Mongolia. However, the
the camp with the two mates you
detour would have to be quick as we had to reach the
just made a few days ago is the best
border crossing before it closed for the weekend. That left
part of the day. Time to exchange
some stories and relax with a beer. us three days.
In the beginning, I was enjoying my time with a fellow
rider. The gravel and mud roads were a bit challenging, but
the thought of having someone around to assist if there
was an issue allowed me to relax and enjoy the moment
rather than focusing on the “What if…?” After all, the detour
was worth it; the mix of mountains and steppes with wild
horses running around was truly awe-inspiring. However,
about 500 km in, my motorcycle suddenly stopped. The
battery died; the battering of the corrugated Altai roads
caused a short circuit. I was glad to have a companion
at that moment as he helped tow the bike to the nearest
village, about 10 km away. We spent the night there.
The next morning, he told me while packing, “You know
the border is going to close.” While he was speaking, I thought

AdventureMotorcycle.com 21
 he was getting ready to ride to the closest city
to find some fuses and a battery. But then, after
putting his helmet on and starting the engine, he
looked at me and said, “Good luck... and remember,
it’s all part of the adventure, mate!” before riding
away. I was alone again, stuck in a remote village
where I couldn’t speak the language. At that
moment, I thought, “Perhaps I should have just stuck
to being on my own and taken the easy road.”  atmosphere was truly out of this world; it felt like I was in a tradi-
During the next three days, while making my way
to the nearest city in old post-Soviet buses to find a
replacement battery, I had plenty of time to weigh the
pros and cons of traveling with someone vs. alone.
Just made it to Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia’s capital,
after a 6,000 mile ride… sharing the moment
with friends who made the same journey; only
they understand what you went through.
Back on the road alone,
freedom to make foolish
decisions and go where
you want, like riding in
the middle of winter
around Mount Fuji, Japan.
One of the advantages
of traveling alone, it’s
so much easier to meet
locals. Here in South
Korea, I was invited in
quite often by local
riders who just saw
me passing by!
22 March/April 2023
O The Freedom and its Cost
Let’s start with the obvious: To me, traveling alone has one big
advantage—Freedom! You can choose where you want to go,
how fast, for how long, when and where to stop; however, with
another there will be compromises, count on it. For example, in
Japan, I was mostly riding alone. On an impulse, I decided to ride
near Mt. Fuji in the middle of winter. Yes, it was very cold. Yes,
the roads were snowy, with icy patches here and there. But the
tional Japanese painting. I can easily imagine that if I’d been with
another, they would have pushed back or wanted to turn around
because the riding conditions were sketchy. But alone, you make
your own decisions and rules. If you want to experience the true
freedom that comes with motorcycle travel, go on a solo journey
at least once.
That said, this kind of freedom can be a double-edged sword.
Sooner or later it’s likely that you’ll face the consequences of
your risky choices. There was a time in South Korea when I
decided to explore a small forest path. Long story short, I got
stuck in a particularly narrow passage with a steep fall on one
side and a dead-end full of deep mud ahead. That day, during
two hours of constant swearing and struggling, I really wished
there was someone to help lift and push my 220 kg Africa Twin
out of the mess.
O Connecting with Others
Another big advantage of traveling alone is that it allows
you to meet others more easily. People will approach you
more often when you’re a solo traveler, especially when on
a motorcycle. Many are attracted to the romance of this
mode of travel and will be curious about what you’re doing
and why. For instance, I was frequently woken up and
approached by herders in Central Asia. Although I couldn’t
understand what they were asking, their smiles made it
clear that they were intrigued by my presence. Later, when
traveling in a group in the same area, I wasn’t approached
as much. People are generally a bit intimidated by larger
groups of foreign travelers.
It also goes the other way, when you’re alone, you also
gain more confidence in the need to meet others. With a
travel companion, you don’t feel this need as much. Oddly
enough, the need to seek company when alone is how I
met my long-time partner, who is now riding around the
world with me. One day in Korea, I decided to stop at a
camping spot near the coast. That’s when I spotted a car
with a European license plate. After waiting next to it for a
while, I met Aga, who was traveling with her family from
Poland to Japan via China. From that day, almost 10 years
ago, we have been together through many countries. If
I had been riding with another at that time, it’s doubtful
that would have happened.
As we’ve seen, traveling alone has its advantages and
challenges, but what about overlanding by motorcycle
with a friend?
O When Companions Keep You Out of Trouble you activate the SOS, the search and rescue may not
make it in time. When going to secluded places, it’s
One of the most important advantages of traveling with
always better to travel with someone.
another is the sense of security. In difficult conditions and
remote areas, it’s reassuring to have their help to pick up a bike,
O Sharing Your Experience with Others
fix it, or in the worst case, call for help. Shortly after my unfortu-
nate adventure with the dead battery in Russia, I finally crossed Safety and security aren’t the only advantages of traveling
into Mongolia. This country was everything I expected it to in a group. While it may sound cheesy, I think Christopher
be and more. It was a pure off-road experience in its barren McCandless’s quote, “Happiness is only real when shared,”
endless steppes. The Mongolian landscapes and atmosphere has a lot of truth in it. I believe you can only fully appreci-
are truly unique. Who needs to go to Mars when we have a ate this after experiencing both—traveling alone and in
place like that right here on Earth? a group. When alone, you are stuck with your thoughts.
At the time, there weren’t that many “roads” in Mongolia, You stop in a remote area, and you are by yourself, with
so sooner or later, you were bound to meet other travelers no one to discuss the events of the day, your plans, and
sharing the same general route or direction. In addition, in your concerns. When you meet a fellow traveler, you
remote areas, the points where you can restock and refuel are realize how much you’ve missed exchanging stories and
limited, which further increases the chance of bumping into points of view with like-minded folk to relate to. After a
other overlanders. That’s how I met Bertus. Thinking about few weeks in Mongolia, Bertus and I met another motor-
the empty landscapes and bumpy roads ahead, I teamed up cycle overlander, Uwe. After a few drinks, he decided to
with him. It was a good call, and a few days later, my rear rack accompany us, and we happily agreed. Funny enough,
snapped due to the pounding it took on the extreme terrain. we all had started our journeys alone. Yet, because of our
Bertus helped to carry some of my stuff to the next village. It need for an extra sense of security in remote Mongolia, as
also turned out he was a welder, so once we found a welding well as the joy that sharing an adventure brought to us, we
station, he helped build a new, very strong rack that I still have decided to team up.
on my bike today. Without his assistance, I would surely have
had to leave some of my gear behind.
The extra sense of security that comes with a travel
companion means you can take more risks and ride
more challenging roads than you’d dare alone. This is
especially true in remote and scarcely populated
regions like the Australian Outback or the
Mongolian steppes. When Aga and I traveled
around Australia in 2021, we also shared
equipment and therefore shared the
weight of our gear. This allowed us to
tackle difficult and technical terrain
with more confidence. That said,
if you decide to travel alone
to isolated regions, always
carry a GPS beacon or
an EPIRB on you. Just
know that even if

Gibb River Road, Western Australia. Another

advantage of riding with someone else is that
you have someone to take pictures of you doing
stupid things!

AdventureMotorcycle.com 23
O TRAVELING SOLO:
• Sense of freedom
• Traveling on your own terms
• Others easily approach you
• Need to deal with the consequences of
your decisions on your own!
• Less security
O TRAVELING TOGETHER:
• Able to take more risks and more
challenging roads
• The extra sense of security and assistance
• Sharing the equipment to reduce the
weight you carry on your bike
• Sharing the adventure and talking about
your traveling experience
• Need to compromise with others
• Additional sense of responsibility for
others who accompany you
South of Western Australia.
If you ride as a couple, you’ll
have memories for a lifetime.
24 March/April 2023
It may sound glamorous and epic to ride through the remote
steppes on your own and camp in the middle of nowhere with
only stars and wild horses around. But the truth is that after a
while, you look forward to the next camp and a friendly chat
with your mates.
O Final Thoughts: What to Consider When
Planning to Travel Alone or in a Group
There is no definite answer to what is best—traveling alone
or with another. It depends on the person and the circum-
stances. Perhaps, the best solution is a mix of both options.
For example, going solo when the road is easy and teaming
up when you know the conditions ahead will be tough. Just
remember that not every companion will be the right fit. Finding
the right one and becoming accustomed to each other may
take a while. Don’t be afraid to ride with a friend; a trusted and
reliable traveling companion can really enhance your experi-
ence, while another may spoil it. You also shouldn’t be afraid
to start your journey alone. Eventually, you’re bound to meet
other adventurers along the way. Some will only be short-term
acquaintances, while others will become your lifelong friends or
partners!
Yan Giovannoni and Aga Macura are a Swiss-Polish
couple traveling the world on their two Suzuki DR650s.
Yan made his first overland journey in 2012 at the
age of 25, three months after obtaining his riding
license. He rode his second-hand Honda Africa Twin from Spain to
Japan through the Siberian forests and Mongolian steppes. After
one year of living in Japan, he continued his trip and rode around
South Korea, where he met Aga. In 2021, they rode over 33,0000
km around Australia. You can follow their past, current and future
adventures on their website. On Instagram, Facebook, and
YouTube (@farwayout), and FarWayOut.com.
Please make no attempt to imitate the illustrated riding scenes, always wear protective clothing and observe the applicable provisions of the road traffic regulations. Photos: Kiska GmbH, S. Romero husqvarna-motorcycles.com
The illustrated vehicles may vary in selected details from the production models and some illustrations feature optional equipment available at additional cost.

terrain you choose.

nimble chassis, you’re
along the trail. With its

prepared to take on any

behind you as you turn off

single powers you smoothly

The road quickly disappears

cutting-edge electronics and

ride mode on the fly. the mighty
the asphalt and engage offroad
E
7

2 ride modes

21"/18" wheels

without
0 1
n d u r o

Versatility
WP XPLOR suspension

Lean angle traction control

compromise.
Di rt on Yo u r
More Fun on
A
fter Royal Enfield’s introduction of the Himalayan in 2018,
a passionate community of riders grew around its unique
style, friendly price point, and go-anywhere prowess.
Only four years later, Royal Enfield’s introduction of the Himalayan-
based Scram 411 continues to build that community giving it an
even wider market appeal.

Performance and Handling

The Scram 411 shares its chassis with the Himalayan, but with a few
important changes.
There’s a 19-inch front wheel in place of its sibling’s 21-inch, and the
designers took inspiration from flat track racing and reduced the fork
rake. The suspension is 0.8-inch shorter, and there was mention of a bit
stiffer rear spring rate. Its mill feels smoother than my first-generation
Himalayan, too. This combo soaks up potholes, washboards, and lumpy
pavement without losing composure, and tracks well. With its rigid
frame, compliant suspension, and dual-sport tires, the Scram 411 is a joy
to ride on a wide range of surfaces. Ultimately, the Scram 411 is notice-
ably more fun and stable at speed and is noticeably easier to handle at
parking lot speeds. Except for those looking to push their bikes hard
off-road, it should work quite well for most. No big surprises here, just
good riding! Redesigned one-piece
seat is roomier and
cut with more
Scram 411 Riding Comfort and Geometry supportive foam.

One of the biggest sore spots (pun intended) of the Himalayan was its
stock two-piece seat. Despite recent revisions, many felt the padding was
not thick enough for extended use and was rather cramped for larger
riders. Royal Enfield took note and gave the Scram 411 a one-piece with
revised foam and a larger seating area. But heavier riders who spend long
days in the saddle may find an aftermarket option is better suited
for their tushes.
The lack of a windscreen means the rider gets the full force of the air
stream. With comfortable cruising speeds between 55 and 65 mph, this
isn’t much of an issue as many riders would rather have the air moving
cleanly around their helmets instead of dealing with buffeting from a

26 March/April 2023
Feet Royal Enfield
Scram 411

the Street by Carl Parker

The new Scram 411 is

fun on- and off-road.

AdventureMotorcycle.com 27
 windscreen. A small bikini fairing option would be nice for
not only protecting the gauges, but any other electronics
you may use.
Unlike many scramblers that come from street bike DNA,
New headlight cowl
the Scram 411 inherits the Himalayan’s off-road capabilities
brings a distinctive
look to the front end. and geometry. The low pegs and upright riding position
work great for many types of riding from commuting to
world exploring. The standing geometry is good for most
testers, but taller riders may want to add higher bars or
risers. Other than that, there’s not much to change in terms
of comfort or rider geometry on the Scram 411.

Aesthetics, Gauges, and Electronics

The new headlight cowl that integrates into the gauges
is probably the most visually striking update. The new,
simplified digital/analog dash is modern-looking, easy
to read during the day, and provides basic info. In
fact, it’s so basic that the tach has disappeared, and
odometer trips are switched by a trigger button on the
right-hand control cluster. There are no buttons on the
gauge cluster itself.
This is a nice touch, but unlike the Himalayan’s more
robust dash that also houses an ABS on/off switch, the
Scram has no such capability. We’re not sure where
this would go on the Scram should they introduce the
feature at a future date. The ABS works well enough
and allows you to lock the rear wheel at very low
speeds, but disabling it (at least for the rear brake)
would be a great option for off-roading.
The rake change wasn’t the only cue taken
from the flat track model. Notably missing are the
Himalayan’s upper side guards, which have been
replaced by “number ball” styled trim inspired by
Hybrid gauges are flat track bikes. From the side, they help fill the
easy to read and visual gap near the neck of the bike by the exhaust
provide your basic
port and horn. From the front, they add “shoulders”
information.
to the tank, which gives a wider, more substantial
look without adding much weight or bulk. When
asked if these number balls were protective, Mark
Wells, Royal Enfield’s Chief of Design, said they
The Scram 411 comes are not intended for that purpose. However,
in seven slick looking they are mounted to the same frame location
color variations, more as the Himalayan’s side guards, so minus some
than any other model scratches to the plastic and paint they should
in the category. provide a bit of protection to the tank in case of
a tip over.
Last but certainly not least, the Scram 411
comes in a whopping seven different color vari-
ations. My personal favorite is White Flame, but
there’s likely something there for everyone.
Combined with the matching-colored wheel
stripes, it’s almost like getting a custom bike
off the showroom floor. As much as I love
to nitpick motorcycles, visually there’s not

28 March/April 2023
much I would change. That said, Himalayans are easy to
customize, and often the results turn out great, like our
Far-Rider Comics project bike.
Improvements and Wishes
No motorcycle is perfect, and no matter how much you
pay, you’ll probably make at least some changes due to
necessity or preference.
You should check bolt tightness on any new Himalayan.
We had a bolt vibrate off the muffler heat shield that
caused a low-pitch-moaning sound at a certain resonance.
Also, the stock skid plate’s metal is quite thin and can crack
at the right-angle bend near the mounting point causing a
random metallic buzz. Not all test bikes had this issue, but
a couple did. For off-road riding, I would replace this with a
heavier-duty version from the Himalayan.
To shave some weight and cost, the Scram 411 has lost the
stock center stand and rear rack found on the Himalayan.
Like the tach, some won’t care, but anyone who wrenches
on their own bikes could use a center stand. Factory center
stands and rear racks are available from dealers, so be sure to
ask if you want one.
All in all, these are not major concerns for a motor-
cycle at this price point. Nevertheless, here’s a “wish list” of
changes we’d like to see on the Scram 411, which also
goes for Himalayans. First and foremost is a kickstarter.
Did you know the engine is ready to accept a kickstart
mechanism? You can see the casting for it below and left
of the logo on the engine’s right side. Apparently, it’s not
expensive to include it from the factory, but there’s little
demand. There are also no aftermarket kits for it and
making one would be expensive to integrate. A kickstart
option would be an awesome feature, even if it added
$100 to the cost. Not only would it further differenti-
ate Himalayan DNA bikes from any other model in the
adventure category, but batteries wear out, fail at the
most inconvenient times, and are more unstable in
extreme heat or cold. Early Himalayans had a battery
drain issue when stored for more than a few weeks and,
to be honest, I’d rather kick than push.
Stock skid plate is good for water
and spray, but get something
heavier for off-road work.
No problems with the Scram 411
exploring your favorite gravel roads!
AdventureMotorcycle.com 29
 The second is having the oil temperature display.
Thankfully I’ve never seen the idiot light for it pop up on
Scram 411
2023 Royal Enfield Himalayan| $6,7 the dash, but Royal Enfield’s “Tripper” navigation display
49 CAD)
Specifications (MSRP: $5,099 USD pod next to the gauges could be used for more than a
clock or turn-by-turn directions. It’s a really useful and
k,
Colors White Flame, Silver Spirit, Blazing Blac easy-to-read display just waiting to be further utilized on
, Gra phite Blue, the Scram 411 and other models.
Skyline Blue, Graphite Red
Graphite Yellow

C, Scram 411 Summary

Engine 411cc single cylinder, 4-stroke, SOH
2-valve, air-/oil-coole d It’s clear Royal Enfield is trying to make affordable bikes
that appeal to a wide range of current and future riders.
Max Power 24.3 bhp @ 6500 rpm Looking at the already diverse Himalayan owner demo-
graphics, the Scram 411 should make it even wider. The
Max Torque 32 Nm @ 4,000–4,500 rpm slightly lower saddle height of 31 inches, very manage-
ABS able power, easier handling, and many color options
Gearbox 5-speed constant mesh make these great beginner motorcycles. And, we
wouldn’t be surprised to see them eventually show up
Front Suspension 41mm forks, 7.5 in. travel at rider training courses.
The Himalayan’s proven go-anywhere capabilities
el
Rear Suspension Monoshock with linkage, 7.0 in. trav now pass on to the Scram 411 variant. With a $5,099
sticker price it will appeal to new and experienced
Front / Rear Tires CEAT 100/90-19 / CEAT 120/90-17 riders alike. This is what I think makes the Himalayan
platform a modern classic. There’s no modern com-
, 2-piston floating caliper/ petitor for style or price, and that’s why it’s been
Front / Rear Brakes 300mm disc caliper
240mm disc, single-piston floating enthusiastically adopted by both the aftermarket and
riding community. It continues to be a strong seller in
this
ABS Dual channel ABS (non-switchable America, and now the U.S. has become Royal Enfield’s
model year) second-largest market outside of India. Anyone
looking for their first bike, a less complicated ride, or
57.3 in. to try their hand at gravel surfing, can find something
Wheelbase
to like in any of the Himalayan models. Now, with
7.8 in. Royal Enfield’s Scram 411 there’s a great option to
Ground Clearance
keep dirt on your feet and have more fun on the
31.3 in. street! RoyalEnfield.com
Seat Height

Curb Weight 407 lb. (without fuel)

Fuel Capacity 4.0 gallons

The Scram 411—a

great bike for a
wide range of riders
and terrains.

30 March/April 2023
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 Unexp ec t e d

A thrilling ride along

Hashamu Road
suggested by ADV
rider, Joel Ross.

32 March/April 2023
Conn ect i o n s
uver Island
North Vanco by Cheryl Jones | photo
s by Ray McKenzie and Ch
eryl Jones

p utting our heads together, Ray and I

hatched a plan to experience the remote
and relatively undeveloped wilderness
regions of northern Vancouver Island. While
I’ve spent my entire life living on this island, I only
began truly exploring it on two wheels over the
past few years. So, as we often do, we decided to
travel without an itinerary, leaving us to explore
without constraints or schedules. And even though
we thought we would be disconnected from the
world as we rode thereit turned out that this
trip would bring clarity to the connections that
surround us daily.

The first day out was a pavement slog through heavy long-
weekend traffic. We were loaded: Mosko Moto luggage jammed
with clothes, first aid kit, safety and repair tools and, of course,
camera equipment. Once north of Campbell River, cell service disap-
peared, only to be had in towns. Ah, being disconnected felt great!
There’s something different about the north end of Vancouver
Island, which I noticed as it attacked the senses: the feeling of fresh
mountain air as it streamed through my HJC helmet and REV’IT! gear
vents, the smell of fir trees and wildflowers, and the grandeur of
island mountain ranges as we rode along the coast. There’s nothing
but you and nature itself out here; it’s easy to lose yourself as a result.
Port McNeil, our home base, is part of what islanders lovingly refer
to as the “TriPort” area, along with Port Alice and Port Hardy. A quaint
town, this “gateway community to the Broughton Archipelago” and
home to the World’s Largest Burl lies along the Queen Charlotte
Strait and has the basic necessities, but boasts nothing extravagant.
Perfect. A hot meal at the local pub, a stroll along the waterfront,
and a front-row seat to a momma eagle encouraging her two playful
offspring to fly provided a magnificent end to a long day in the saddle.
The next day we rode south toward Zeballos, known for its sport
fishing and ecotourism, and decided to navigate the north end of
Atluck Lake—and were we ever glad we did. The dirt road that hugs
the edge of the crystal-clear-blue lake provided yet another front row
seat to the lush green mountains on one side and a jagged rock face
on the other. Little traffic on this road meant the freedom to choose our
lines, slow down, and enjoy various side roads, as well as the oppor-
tunity to snap a few images. The logging roads are mostly ungated or

AdventureMotorcycle.com 33
 Ray caught by surprise as
he catches up to me.

open, offering unlimited options to travel the

remote areas of the north. If you come this way,
make sure you have a SPOT device or similar
satellite tracker. You’ll be traveling isolated
areas where anything can go wrong.
The town of Port Alice and surrounding
area offered a ton of paved fun and laughs.
Highway 30 is a rider’s dream no matter what
bike you have. The 30 kilometers of undulat-
ing tarmac, with its sweepers and decreas-
ing radius corners, were a hoot. While Ray
yahooed into his Sena comm unit, I lost my
tummy and found some air on a few paved
whoops. It was all I could do not to throw
both hands up in the air as this roller coaster
of asphalt provided huge entertainment.
Here, adventure is always close-by. Once
Ray and I couldn’t resist introducing outside any of the small towns, it’s a rider’s
Coal Harbour with their quaint sign. paradise. As we headed west, we reached
Coal Harbour, with a classic wooden sign,
hung slightly askew, stating that it’s a “whale
of a town.” History tells us this fishing village
along Quatsino Sound had been a military
base, as well as Canada’s last whaling station.
Float planes remain a way in and out of the
sound for many, and the old hangar contains
a 20-foot jawbone from a blue whale—the
largest found in the world. We took a quick
stop here and then continued westward to
the tiny village of Holberg.
Our map showed approximately 50
kilometers of gravel road, but the difficulty
was not what we expected. Think about
piles of marbles on the floor, a metaphor
that sounds about right; it demanded
total concentration. After a few handlebar-
clenching kilometers, we pulled over and
aired down the Dunlop Trailmax Missions. So
much better! Rounding a corner, we were
Ray playing conductor on greeted by foreboding signs advising road
an old steam engine in Woss. users about steep grades, blind corners,
soft shoulders, heavy equipment, and
logging trucks. A red Cadillac lay across
the road crushed by a huge old-growth
tree with a large sign, “Be prepared for the
unexpected.” We could not help but play
tourist, climbing on the car and grabbing
a few shots. The sign provided a little fore-
shadowing, but not for the reasons you
might expect.

34 March/April 2023
 Here’s where the human story, a story of connec-
tion, enters. About 10 kilometers from the town, three
adventure motorcycles pulled in front of us from an
adjacent dirt road; we followed them the rest of the
way to Holberg. When we reached the corner store,
we were surprised to see it was a fellow adventure rider
we follow on Instagram, Joel Ross (adv_rider_joelross).
We knew from his recent posts that he was on the island,
but what are the chances we’d end up meeting in this
tiny town of only five full-time residents?
He recognized us immediately from our license plates.
As we chatted with Joel and his friends, the store’s owner,
Marc Hanslo, came out to greet us all. A lovely South
African gentleman, he had made his way to Canada
to support his son’s motocross racing dreams. He later
purchased the Holberg General Store and expanded it,
adding a dedicated campsite for motorcyclists. As Holberg
is a jumping-off point to Cape Scott and the North Coast
Trail for hikers and campers, as well as an adventure and
dirt biker destination, Marc may have just found a diamond
in the rough.
We lingered around the table for quite some time with
Taking the time to stop and
enjoy the aroma of B.C.’s
wildflowers.
these riders we knew from social media but had never
met in person. I loved the exchange of stories, tips and
laughter. Ray and I frequently discuss the upside of social
media and how we have connected with “Instafriends”
from around the world. Meeting them in person and
having an instant kinship is the positive bond that social
media can bring. And we’ve played host and been invited
to visit others more times than I can count. The human
connection was never clearer than on this trip. As we
parted, I couldn’t help but smile at the amazing afternoon
we’d just spent.
The ride back was even more picturesque and less
traveled. As we rode out, my thoughts drifted to our
connection with others, and now as we descended along an
ocean inlet, the connection with nature. Flower-filled fields
and stunning vistas left me feeling the sense of adventure
on a much deeper level. This was more than just a quick rip
along a dirt road, and it filled me with happiness.
The north island was so intriguing we decided to do an
additional 100-kilometer loop of gravel road around Lake
Alice. Along the way we stopped to photograph the Eternal
Fountain, a waterfall that appears from nowhere and then
AdventureMotorcycle.com 35
 disappears back into the ground. We also saw
the Devil’s Bath, one of Canada’s largest cenotes.
Nature’s wonders never cease to amaze us.
On the long way home, I couldn’t help but
think we’d done something so much more
than an adventure ride to stunning locations
in the far north of Vancouver Island. The ride,
the adventure, the views, the nature and, most
importantly, the people, all provided such a con-
nection—the kind that stays with you long after
the ride. And THAT is why we ride.

Cheryl Jones is a registered

Ray contemplating a different
mode of transportation as he
admires this DHC-2 Beaver
in Coal Harbour.
nurse and mother of three
who has discovered a passion
for adventure riding. She has
traveled through Europe, Africa
and most recently part of Asia
on two wheels. An avid photographer, she enjoys
the candid capture and has a love for writing.
Instagram @beastrider_111 and @maptacsray

An “unexpected” photo op
and time for a little fun.

36 March/April 2023
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Vinnytsia just hours
after three cruise
missiles hit. Image
by Kiran Ridley.

38 March/April 2023
 ley and Neale Bayly
by Neale Bayly | photos by Kiran Rid

I
t started with a phone call from award-winning photographer
Kiran Ridley who was working in Lviv during the beginning of
the Ukraine war, covering the refugee crisis from the saddle
of an old Chinese motorbike. He needed someone to talk to. It
was cold and dangerous, and the entire city was on the razor’s
edge of uncertainty as they prepared for the possibility of a
Russian attack.
Thousands of miles away in my soft, comfortable life, images of destroyed
buildings, dead and injured civilians, and outnumbered soldiers fighting
for their country filled the media. It didn’t seem possible that Russia was
targeting women and children in plain view of the world.
I called Kiran a couple of days later to offer my help. He asked if it was
possible to find a couple of motorcycles. Thanks to BMW Motorrad, we soon
had a pair of BMW F850GS Adventures waiting in Munich. Next, Arai helmets
jumped in, and REV’IT! offered to provide our outfits before everything
ground to a crawl as each day seemed to bring new challenges.
As of this writing, we’ve been in Ukraine for five days on several assign-
ments working with some brilliant fixers, and it’s been
intense. Among many things, we’ve been 1,500 feet
below the surface in an old ’70s Soviet-era coal mine,
spending time with young front-line amputees. And,
Roman on his Chinese we’ve been to a 16th-century monastery housing 50
“adventure” motorcycle refugees from Kharkiv. And we’ve been busy raising
at the motocross track donations via social media.
in Bucha. For the most part, we are okay here in western
Ukraine. But there are moments that gnaw at my
guts, like when world-famous photographer Brent
Stirton, ex-South African Special Forces, messaged
from Sri Lanka to say, “I’ve lost two friends, and
two others are wounded.” It’s the same feeling
when the air raid sirens wail, or when we
approach a military checkpoint.
Life here is tumultuous. One moment I’m
overwhelmed at a rehab center seeing young
men with missing limbs or spending time with
refugees listening to their horrific stories. Then, I
Photo by Kiran Ridley

find myself riding a motorcycle carving through

a beautiful country landscape, marveling at
the stunning architecture in the villages and
AdventureMotorcycle.com 39
Looking out of a destroyed
apartment in Irpin at the
damage caused by the
Russian invasion in the
early part of the war. Image
by Kiran Ridley.
onion-domed churches that accentuate the quiet rural life
of Ukraine. It would be an idyllic country for a motorcycle
trip, adventure ride, or holiday.
But as peaceful and beautiful as it momentarily appears,
reality comes rushing back knowing that these beautiful
people, their stunning architecture, and peaceful lifestyle
may be bombed into oblivion in an instant. The gnawing
in my gut returns.
The following day, we headed east where the stories got
harder, and the fight in my head returned as the search
for the words and images to communicate the need for
help waged on. As we loaded our bikes and got ready to
leave the Loft 7 hotel in Lviv, the front desk team came to
say goodbye. After seeing a couple of hairy Englishmen
running in and out the previous days, they had become
connected to us.
It was one of those times when the historic streets,
the beautiful weather and the stunning architecture had
me fooled into thinking I was on tour in this beautiful
40 March/April 2023
country. In total the trip was only about 350 miles,
but we took two-lane roads and were constantly
slowed or stopped for military checkpoints.
It was late afternoon before we hit the outskirts of
Kyiv. My initial exposure to the war had been from
the testimonies of amputees, refugees, and air strike
warnings. With that in my mind, the sight and smell
of destroyed buildings had my head on a swivel
within minutes of reaching the city. Entire shopping
malls, department stores, gas stations, and houses
were gone, leaving just charred, twisted remains as
grotesque reminders of the death and destruction
caused by Russian missiles. The damage was less
extensive deeper in the city as we rolled through
historic tree-lined avenues at sunset to find funky
accommodations.
Setting up camp for a few days in tiny single-
bedroom apartments, Kiran and I debriefed, sharing
the schizophrenia-like feeling of catching ourselves
 enjoying the ride and forgetting the war for a while. Any as did Andriy. I’ll never be able to convey the love and
feelings of guilt were soon washed away by the haunting, respect I feel for this man, and how he allowed us to get
and now familiar sound of the sirens howling into the so close and deep with his people. He felt it, lived it, and
night as we discussed our day and the strange intimacy of was always totally invested in the moment. We could not
knowing these could be our final moments. have had and recorded these events without him.
With so much in the news about the discovery of mass We spent a few days in and out of those areas before a
graves in Bucha and Irpin, we headed in that direction. I’m walking tour of Kyiv. What an incredible city it is, crammed
still trying hard to process all the destroyed infrastructure with amazing architecture, peaceful streets, sidewalk cafes,
we rode past that day. But traveling with an award-winning and historic churches and cathedrals at every turn. Most
photographer, I had the pleasure and privilege, to watch interesting was St. Sophia, founded in 1037, but which
him work at very close quarters. And, while I added “pho- also had a chilling exhibition outside its gates of destroyed
tographer” to my title, I was humbled in this company. My Russian military equipment. It showed so much of the
photographs are just recordings of what’s there. Kiran’s are Ukrainian spirit giving Putin the middle finger.
different, and it’s fascinating to watch his process, patience, Our ride to Odessa started late. Breakfast with a
and how long he works on a subject, chasing that perfect Ukrainian journalist got us up to speed on some of the
moment he’s looking for. areas we anticipated traveling. With the city under missile
Locals helped us reconstruct the wild stories of what
had happened. Our fixer, Andriy, plucked an 82-year-old
lady from her flower booth, and together we
toured her home in the nearby suburbs. Lady
Luck was with her when a bomb landed in her
yard and bounced off a car, which narrowly
missed killing her and her husband as they slept.
Walking the neighborhood among the tank
tracks, and destruction, Kiran and I kept coming
back to how random it always was, how one
house was destroyed while another remained
untouched….
The rest of that day was spent touring devas-
tated apartment complexes and private homes
and interviewing those who remained, living
in the rubble. Many had evacuated; most had
lost someone significant. Many men were
away at the front lines leaving the women
and children in the shattered remains of
their once-peaceful lives. They kindly shared The little girl on the
their stories, and as Kiran has repeated so tricycle was at the
many times on podcasts and TV shows, speedway track in Bucha.
the motorcycles gave us fantastic access,

Kiran and the author with the

speedway guys on the track in Bucha.
This destroyed
Russian tank is in the
city of Hostemel.

AdventureMotorcycle.com 41
One of Kiran’s world award-
winning images from the
start of the war when he was
covering the refugee crisis
on the Polish border.
bombardment, we rode with apprehension. Entering Odessa
in the early evening, we found this beautiful coastal town
eerily quiet. The military checkpoints were usually a good
barometer of how hot a particular area was, and the intense
shakedowns told us all we needed to know. As our South
African friend in Lviv often said, “This is life in wartime.”
Late that evening we discussed our next move, the city
of Mykolaiv. Mykolaiv was under constant attack and if any
one of us decided not to risk it we’d abort. Nobody backed
out, but we switched to a car as it could get complicated
managing three separate vehicles. A crew call was set for 8:00
a.m. and we headed to bed. A night of disrupted sleep from
the omnipresent sirens did not do much to calm the nerves.
The next day in Mykolaiv we met long lines waiting for
water. We were apprehensive of what else there was to
discover as we’d learned that a school and a hospital had been
hit. Our first stop was a missile-struck apartment complex.
With fires still burning, people in bandages, and bloodstains
everywhere, I noticed and photographed an older lady blankly
staring through the shattered glass of her window. A few
days later I learned from her daughter that she’d died in the
aftermath of the attack—but when I’d looked so intently at her
through my lens, I knew she was already gone.
42 March/April 2023
As we worked, emergency service personnel were
hard at the clean-up, and met and were mesmerized by a
young lady. Her name was Liebov, which meant “Love” in
Ukrainian. As she picked through the ruins of her father’s
home, she had rescued her baby clothes and was going
to donate them to a local charity overwhelmed with
children’s needs. Having a camera to cover your tears at
times like these is certainly helpful.
As we didn’t want to be in the way, we moved across
the city to visit the school. In some incredible stroke of
luck, the missile that struck had not exploded. However,
the amount of damage it had done just landing was
incredible. Mercifully no children were present at that
moment. The silence was oppressive when photograph-
ing the destroyed playground and the blown-to-bits
schoolrooms. I was glad when we made a move… or
so I thought. As we searched for the local hospital, we
got stuck in a dead-end street as air strike warnings
erupted across the city. With somewhere between 15–25
missile strikes already that day we had nowhere to go.
Wellspring-outreach.org
 You can help by donating to Neale’s
non-profit for this journey, Wellspring
International Outreach, which helps
bring aid and attention to abandoned
and at-risk children around the world.
Wellspring-outreach.org/product/donation

We met Sasha at the Equine

Therapy Center outside Lviv.
Just weeks from the front line,
he was getting therapy.

Born in England, and raised in

South Devon, Neale Bayly founded
Wellspring International Outreach,
a non-profit organization, to focus on
coming to the aid of orphans around the Kiran and the author outside the
world. To help raise awareness for Wellspring’s work, BMW press bike pick-up in Munich.
Neale also created the “Neale Bayly Rides” series on
YouTube.

Kiran Ridley is an award-winning British

photojournalist based in Paris who works
for leading publications across the world
and is primarily focused on social-political
topics and the human experience. He was
recently named Editorial Photographer of the Year 2022
in the World Gala Photography Awards and Editorial
Photographer of the Year 2020 in the Lucie IPA Awards.
www.kiran.eu or Instagram @kiran_ridley

AdventureMotorcycle.com 43
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44 March/April 2023
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AdventureMotorcycle.com 45
 UP
G
IN
N
TU

Motorcycling
First Aid Kit
To make sure we are
prepared, we practice
with simulated crashes.

A FIVE-STEP GUIDE by Mitchel de Jager | photos by @th

egreatridealong

As a former first responder and pediatric nurse,
I’ve put together the following tips to help make
a first aid kit suited for the average adventure
motorcycle traveler. A proper kit is something you
hope you never need, but if you do, it could save
a life. In this five-step guide, you’ll learn what’s
needed to properly prepare a first aid kit, where to
train for the moment you need it, and why training
is far more important than a fancy first aid kit.
training. Whichever you choose, it all comes back to
the same basics. Don’t have any training yet? Start by
getting general first aid training, the knowledge from
which will prove helpful in everyday life, regardless of
whether you are on the road or not.
STEP 2: GET DECENT TRAINING

The better the training, the less gear you’ll need.

STEP 1: DECIDE WHAT
YOU NEED TO LEARN
How well do you want/need to be prepared? That’s
a question only you can answer. There is general first
aid training, such as the Red Cross, Wilderness First
Aid training, and even Extreme Motorcycle First Aid
With training, you’ll be able to improvise better, keep
your cool in an emergency, and have far less chance
of making mistakes. For example, we carry tourni-
quets, which are used to stop heavy bleeding such
as an arterial wound. However, with proper training,
you’ll learn how to make a tourniquet from scratch in
seconds. Put another way, it’s better to have decent
training but no gear than all the gear but no training.
Your first aid kit might not help if you don’t know how
to use it.

46 March/April 2023
 STEP 3: BE REAL

The chances of a major accident happening where you need to apply that
tourniquet before the victim bleeds out are slim. But you do need to be ready for
day-to-day incidents. In Wilderness First Aid training, it’s easy to get excited about
emergency helicopter extractions in the middle of the night. However, the truth
is that most of us will more likely be removing ticks and will never be involved in
such an experience. The point is that it’s just as important to be prepared for the
smaller things as for that one major event.

STEP 4: WHAT YOU WANT

On both bikes we have the
IN YOUR FIRST AID KIT “RED bags,” which makes them
always quick and easy to find.
The most important rule in (extreme) first aid: Don’t be a hero! This also
applies to your kit. Only bring gear you know how to use. If you’re not
trained in using a tourniquet, adrenaline, or heavy painkillers, don’t bring
them with you. That said, do bring what you anticipate might be needed
and you’re not likely to have easy access to in areas you’ll be. In populated Simulation showing
first-world areas, there’s no need to carry emergency antibiotics. But assisting a rider with
a broken upper arm.
for areas such as the Amazon rainforest, African deserts, or even riding
days away from major towns in the Americas, check with a specialized
physician for suggestions and recommendations (and the meds you
can legally cross borders with).

STEP 5: PROPERLY PACK

YOUR FIRST AID KIT

The final step is to pack your first aid kit properly. This mostly means
three things:
1. Always carry it in a quick-access location and always use the
same location.
2. Make absolutely certain the container is waterproof. Most first
aid items won’t fare well if they get wet.
3. Find an organizational system that works for you. For our
system and other suggestions, keep on reading.

 OUR FIRST AID KIT

Remember, know what you are doing. Don’t know how to use
something? Check whether you really want to bring it.
We travel on two motorcycles, and our first aid kit is divided
into four 2–3L bags. The system is quite simple, the RED bags
are for “nearly dead” items, and GREEN are for “later seen.” In
the RED bags are the most critical items in case of a major
crash, a big fall while hiking, an animal attack, etc. The first
GREEN bag is filled with emergency medication like antibiot-
ics, painkillers, and post-malaria pills. The second GREEN bag
is filled with all non-critical supplies like band-aids and large
plasters, burn shields, tapes, and equipment like tweezers. For
a full list, see the next page.
On both motorcycles, the RED bags are always kept in the
exact same locations and contain exactly the same items. So,
no matter which RED bag we grab, we’ll always have every-
thing we need. Fortunately, so far, all we’ve needed were
tweezers, scissors, band-aids, and small amounts of natural
ointments. But there’s great peace of mind knowing that we’re
well prepared if something bad happens.
AdventureMotorcycle.com 47
 Content of our “RED bags,”
CONTENTS OF same on both bikes.

GREEN BAGS
SUPPLIES BAG
Tape: Special use:
• 1x small tape • 1x SAM splint 36-in.†
• 1x big/body tape • 2x pregnancy test
Plasters/Adhesive Bandages: Equipment:
• 6x plasters 5x7cm • 1x thermometer
• 6x non-adherent swabs • 1x tick tweezers
• 10x small adhesive bandages • 1x normal tweezers
• 5x finger adhesive bandages
• 2x adhesive bandages 7.5cm
• 2x burn shield 10x10cm
• 2x second skin 10x10cm

MEDICATIONS* BAG
Non-prescription:
• 20x Paracetamol 500mg
• 5x Paracetamol 1,000mg suppository
• 10x Ibuprofen 200mg; 10x Ibuprofen 400mg
CONTENTS OF
RED BAGS
• 50x Norit activated charcoal 125mg
• 30x Norit activated charcoal 200mg
• 6x O.R.S. sachet • 1x emergency • 1x glowstick
• 5x sterile water 10cc trauma dressing 4-in.† • 1x rescue cover
• 24x Rennie (calcium carbonate • 1x tourniquet† • 1x HiBiCet (15cc)
with magnesium subcarbonate) • 1x trauma scissors • 1x superglue
(capable of cutting
Prescription: through the motor- • 1x permanent marker
• 12x Atovaquone/proguanil cycle suits) • 1x sterile gloves
hydrochloride (post-malaria) (M & L)
• 1x triangular
• 20x Ciprofloxacin 500mg bandage • 1x instant cold pack
(broad-spectrum antibiotics)
• 1x hand disinfectant • 1x pack of dextrose
• 14x Furabid 100mg (antibiotics tablets
for urinary infection) • 1x pulse oximeter†

Other:
• 1x manuka honey
As an adventure-destined couple, Mitchel
• 1x tea tree oil and Nadia de Jager are exploring the world.
• 1x Nestosyl wound gel Creating a life as adventurers, digital nomads,
content creators, and brand ambassadors,
they share their journey into the world of ADV.
†Only bring when you are trained in the application. Join their adventures at “The Great Ride Along” on Instagram and
*Consult with your physician or medical professional about YouTube. @thegreatridealong
what medications may be useful and suitable on your route. Disclaimer: This guide is no substitute for medical advice or any form of training.
Use it at your discretion and risk.
48 March/April 2023
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AdventureMotorcycle.com 49
 EW
VI
RE

Eldorado to the Klondike

IA
ED
M

Riding Inappropriate Motorcycles to Out-of-the-Way Places

Book review by Thomas Porter

Author: Nick Adams
ASIN: B07W4F7845
ISBN: 1088721168
Publisher: Self-published
Formats: Paperback, Audiobook, and Kindle

T his book is the tale of a shakedown ride that turned

into an epic 9,000-mile, cross-continent journey
for author Nick Adams. Even better: Adams takes this
journey on a 47-year-old Moto Guzzi Eldorado—no
electronics, no fuel injection, no ABS, and no fear.
Through torrential downpours, bone-chilling
temperatures, and less-than-ideal roads, Adams regales
the reader with accounts of this bucket list solo journey
across Canada. He provides colorful descriptions of
the Canadian landscapes intertwined with vignettes of
wildlife, mishaps and new friendships. Along the path
to Gold Rush country and the Arctic Circle, the former
archaeologist describes the geomorphology and
ancient history of the landscape in a colloquial,
easy-to-digest manner.
The highways and backroads between Ontario and
the Yukon range from pristine asphalt to rutted, muddy
resource roads. Most wouldn’t tackle these routes with
even the most “appropriate” of motorcycles, never mind a
classic as old as our parents.
Adams’ accounts of breakdowns, roadside repairs, and
on-the-fly improvisation will resonate with anyone who’s
traveled long distances on a motorcycle. Predicaments
that would end the trip for other riders are opportunities To sum it up, Adams inspires readers by reminding us that
for Adams to adapt, improvise and overcome the trials it matters not what kind of motorcycle we ride, along with
along the way. Often, all that keeps Adams from being the encouragement of “Do it while you still can”—aptly the
stranded thousands of miles from home is a tool roll, some title of another book in his library of offerings.
spare parts and an intimate knowledge of his machine.
“Never leave home without the WD40,” says Nick. Canadian writer/photographer Thomas Porter
Some of the most entertaining parts of this book are lives and rides in some of North America’s
accounts of the interesting folks he met along the way. most storied landscapes. Out his front door,
The old Moto Guzzi Eldorado piled high with gear and the Badlands of southern Alberta stretch to the
caked in dirt was a magnet for the inquisitive—a perfect eastern horizon. Off the back porch, the Rocky
icebreaker for conversation. Mountains of British Columbia and Montana rise above the
If you enjoy listening to audiobooks of adventures, you semi-arid desert. Porter spent more than two decades in
will undoubtedly enjoy Adams’ self-narration, delivered daily newspapers and magazines before attaining a science
with sophistication and a timeless British diction reminiscent degree in physical geography. In addition to being a riding
of Ted Simon’s classic moto journal Jupiter’s Travels. writer, Porter enjoys fly fishing and documentary filmmaking.

50 March/April 2023
LEARN MORE ABOUT THE 2023 SCRAM 411 AT ROYALENFIELD.COM
Ténéré 700. The Next Horizon is yours.
www.YamahaMotorsports.com

Professional rider depicted on a closed course. Dress properly for your ride with a helmet, eye protection, riding jacket or long-sleeve
shirt, long pants, gloves and boots. European spec model shown. Yamaha and the Motorcycle Safety Foundation encourage you to ride
safely and respect the environment. For further information regarding the MSF course, call 1-800-446-9227. Do not drink and ride.
It is illegal and dangerous. ©2023 Yamaha Motor Corporation, U.S.A. All rights reserved.