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Abstract
The article focuses on the portraiture of Sabina, wife of the emperor Hadrian,
and its role in the development of the Roman female imperial portrait in the
high empire (117–138 CE). Recent advances in the study of female portraiture
and provincial coinage offer new evidence that revise standard accounts
and adjust the chronology. A more representative study is offered through a
consideration of two of her portrait types and their relationship to imagery on
coins, as well as to portraits of Roman women, and statuary that honors both
empresses and women of lower social ranks with the attributes of goddesses.
In particular, Sabina’s principal portrait type differs in adornment (hairstyle)
from that of Roman women, which was not the norm. Hadrian’s Hellenic
revival, the persistence of ideal or generic features in portraits, and the proto-
cols of grooming and styling of hair are considered in the discussion of Sabi-
na’s distinct looks.
1 Fittschen and Zanker 1983, 10–12, no. 10, pl. 12; Reggiani 2004, 112 (M. Mattei). Wegner 1956, 129, pls. 44, 46;
La Rocca et al. 2012, 271, no. I.18 (L. Buccino); Rome, Vatican Museums, Sala de’ Busti 359, from the Villa of
Antoninus Pius in Lanuvium; Wegner 1956, 129, pls. 44, 46, Rome, Palazzo Massimo, no. 1222; from the Via
Appia; Adembri and Nicolai 2007, 140 (C. Marino) with some loose flesh under chin as the only sign of age.
2 Fejfer 2008, 331, 344, 353–57.
Figure 5 (right)
Portrait of Marciana. Metro-
politan Museum of Art, Rogers
Fund 1920, no. 20.200 (photo:
https://www.metmuseum.org/
art/collection/search/250953;
public domain).
her mother, the Elder Matidia, and her grandmother, Marciana (the niece and
sister of Trajan, respectively), as well as those of other, anonymous women
(figs. 4, 5).3 Sabina’s imagery stands apart. It did not clearly follow prece-
dents set by previous imperial women nor did it attract followers among the
women of Rome.
The quantity of Sabina’s extant portraits exceeds those of the Trajanic
imperial women. Four (possibly five) portrait types have been classified by
their distinct manner of dressing the hair.4 Besides the signature style of the
principal type (figs. 1–3) and the modified tiered coiffure mentioned above
(fig. 4), the other types feature locks in a center part clasped behind in a
knot (in the manner of Livia), and a style recalling her predecessor Plotina’s
3 Wegner (1956, 130–31, pls. 41–2) and Fittschen and Zanker (1983, 12 n. 5d) on the Vaison type; Fittschen
(1996, 42) on “the two-part arrangement of the toupet” in the portraits of Marciana and Matidia, as well as
in private portraits, being reduced to one in Sabina’s portrait; see also Zanker (2016, 210–12, no. 78) for the
portrait of Marciana, dated 117–138 CE, of a similar type as the Hadrianic examples; Metropolitan Museum
of Art, Rogers Fund 1920 (20.200).
4 Wegner 1956, 84–91, pls. 41–42, 44–48; Fittschen and Zanker 1983, 10–12.
5 La Rocca and Parisi Presicce 2017, 314–19, cat. no. 7 (L. Buccino) on the Plotina type; Fittschen and Zanker
(1983, 10, no. 9, and 12, no. 10, n. 9); Fittschen (2004, 112 n. 5) on the Livia type; a fifth type features a coiffure
with a knot of hair forming a diadem, see Fittschen 1996, 50 n. 12.
6 Fittschen and Zanker 1983, 10, no. 9, n. 2; Salzmann 1989, 363–64, figs. 58, 11; Adembri and Nicolai 2007,
77–79; Nicolai 2007, 94–95; Söldner 2010, 225–26, fig. 76.
7 Alexandridis 2004, 57–63; Fejfer 2008, 341.
8 Heckster (2003) on messages aimed to different audiences on coins of varying denominations.
9 Abdy 2014, 74; I use the term “empress” for ease of expression, although it did not exist in Rome.
10 BMCRE 3, xlix; Fittschen and Zanker, 1983, 11 n. 1; Abdy 2014, 74–77.
11 Carandini 1969, 151, 224.
An important work is a statue in Vaison (figs. 4, 6), for which a portrait type
is named. The statue’s body presents a variant on the type of the so-called
personification of Pudicitia (feminine modesty), which was paired with a
nude heroic statue of Hadrian.21 The pair was erected in the theater at Vaison
to commemorate, perhaps, Hadrian’s trip to southern France in 121 or 122.22
The Vaison portrait statue is important because its identification and context
18 Abdy (2014, 74–75) on the evidence of the provincial coins “overlooked” by Mattingly and Strack; Amandry
and Burnett (2015, 3.2, 848–50) now make the provincial coinage of the eastern empire accessible.
19 BMCRE 3:cxlix, clxxxiv; Fittschen and Zanker 1983, 11; Salzmann 1989, 364.
20 Supra n. 2.
21 Evers 1994, 194–95, no. 144 (Vaison-la-Romaine, Musée municipal).
22 Wegner (1956, 130–31, pls. 41–42) dated it to 121 in association with Hadrian’s travels in the west to Gaul and
the coiffure’s similarity to those of Marciana and Matidia; Carandini (1969, 295, tav. 1; 322–23, tav. 25–26)
dated it to 122 CE; Fittschen (1996, 42) on the possibility that the Vaison type “was created on the occasion
of her husband’s accession to the throne in 117.”
23 Fittschen and Zanker (1983, 12 n. 5d) on the Vaison type and the group of replicas in Vaison, Copenhagen,
Malmo, Seville, and Zurich (private collection); add a sixth to this, the head in the Metropolitan Museum
on loan from the Dubroff Collection (Fittschen 1996, 45, fig. 5); a seventh replica is the head in Florence in
the Antiquarium of the Palazzo Medici Riccardi, and an eighth said to be documented in the Bardini photo
archives (La Rocca et al. 2011, 400, cat. 6.15 [L. Buccino]).
24 Brennan (2018, 27–29) on the paucity of sources; various dates have been posited for the granting of the
title, Augusta, to Sabina, including 119, 123, and 128 CE, with the latter being the most widely accepted,
although there is evidence for the earlier dates as well; infra n. 38.
25 Boatwright (1991, 516–17) on Sabina’s family with preceding literature: her father may have been L. Vibius
Sabinus, a senator perhaps from Assisi, thus Vibia Sabina; Matidia’s father was C. Salonius Matidius Patrui-
nus, thus Salonia Matidia, Sabina’s mother; see also Chausson 2007.
26 Boatwright 1991, 523–24; Wood 2015.
27 Boatwright 1991, 522–23.
28 Brennan 2018, 150.
46 Abdy 2014, 78–79, for a chronological chart of Mattingly’s coin groups with legends and the various
coiffures represented in each; 2014, 80–81, a chart of Abdy’s groups; Nicolai 2007, 92–93, in which the alta
and coda hairstyles appear side-by-side in coin series, until Diva Augusta imagery dominates with the head
covered by a veil in 137–138.
47 Abdy 2014, 74, on the absence of Sabina’s coinage in the first half of Hadrian’s reign, and the precedence for
this in the case of Plotina’s coinage under Trajan.
48 Abdy 2014, 76, pl. 1, 5, for the bronze coin with bust of Sabina, BM no. 1908.0110.2435; see Amandry and Bur-
nett 2015, 3.2:849, pl. 174, no. 3951, on the early use of the title Augusta, granted in 128, as an enthusiastic or
unofficial acclamation in Gaba; also Amandry and Burnett 2015, 3.1:511; 3.2:pl.85, no. 1959, for another early
coin of Sabina, possibly dated to 125–126, from Hyrcanis (near Smyrna) in Asia Minor; both portraits are
crudely represented with the hair piled up, although the poorly preserved coin from Gaba shows the back
of the head in a compressed manner with the braided nest at a downward angle (it is difficult to see the
contours of the coiffure).
49 Amandry and Burnett 2015, 3.2:849.
50 Abdy 2104, 77, pl.1, 6, for a silver denarius (BMCRE 3:374, no.1029, pl. 69.2) with legend of Sabina Augusti,
Sabina, the wife of emperor Hadrian, and Hadrianus Augustus on obverse; rather than P. P., Pater Patriae,
awarded in 128, prominent in legends.
more clearly depicts the “crest and nest” hairstyle on the reverse. Sabina’s
coin portraits were similar to those of Matidia issued early in Hadrian’s reign
to honor her and Plotina.51 Sabina coin portraits differ, however, from the
sculptural portrait, the Vaison type, with their higher crests and multiple tiers.
The coin indicates that Sabina’s early public image conformed to precedent
by adorning her in the coiffure of choice of Roman matrons. Abdy also notes
that the legend from obverse to reverse serves to introduce Sabina as “this is
Sabina [wife of] the emperor Hadrian.52 Furthermore, Abdy’s research extends
the chronology of coins that had been limited to the last decade of Hadrian’s
reign after 128 through this consideration of dated provincial coins.
Some of the better preserved coins from Alexandria, for example a silver
tetradrachm dated to 128–129, provide sharply observed details of the styling
of the hair: linear contours trace the interweaving of braids of the bun above,
and striations mark wavy locks on the simplified crest, along with spit-curls
hanging down in front of the ears in some of the coins (fig. 7).53 In some of the
coins from Bithynia and Pontus, the nest of braids appears like a petite bun
tipped back on the head like a beret, while in others, in Pergamon and Alexan-
dria, for example, it is expansive and wreaths nearly the entire top of the head.
In these, the nest is shown as a loop swinging around in semicircle to imply its
Figure 9 (right)
Bronze sestertius of Laodicea.
Berlin, Münzkabinett, Staat-
liche Museen zu Berlin. no.
18253496 (photo by Reinhard
Saczewski).
full extent on the small profile head in relief.54 The larger and better preserved
coins display fine work in a jewel-like filigree to indicate the complexity of the
hairstyling with stipling, beading, or dappling the surface to suggest texture of
the highly processed plaited hair.
The high level of artistry is also found in coins depicting Sabina from the
mint of the city of Rome. In fact, many of the portrait types are nearly iden-
tical across the empire: compare a sestertius from Rome (fig. 8) to one from
Laodicea possibly in 129 (fig. 9).55 Not only do the facial profiles closely resem-
ble one another, but the hairstyles correspond very closely as well, with the
crest featuring the superimposed tiers, as well as with the swinging curve of
the nest that allows for a view of the coiled braids within. Both depictions
even show a minor detail, the braids drawn up in rows from the back of the
head to the nest. Coins with this portrait type with hair coiled above conform
to sculptural portraits bearing the iconic profile of the tiered coiffure both in
Rome and the provinces. Yet this portrait is not the only type represented on
coins: the others depict Sabina with her hair gathered at the nape of the neck,
or loosely held in a queue or ponytail, which also reflect sculptural types,
54 Amandry and Burnett 2015, 3.2:pl. 38, nos. 1012, 1022; 3.1:124–25, on bronze coinage from Bithynia and Pontus
from 128–137 CE and (2015, 3.2:pl. 77, nos. 1760/1 and 1760/8) for bronze coins from Pergamon; 2015, 3.1:207,
214, from 130 CE.
55 BMCRE 3:537, no.1882, pl. 99.2. Amandry and Burnett 2015, 3.2:pl. 104, n. 2335; 3.1:288–89, may date from 129
to coincide with Hadrian’s visit to Laodicea in June of that year; Agrèppinos, strategos, was responsible for
the coin, a large-sized medallion.
The coin series of the provinces, however, diverge from the sculptural
portraits in another significant aspect. The tiered hairstyle recognizable from
sculptural portraits underwent a change in a limited number of coins of the
early 130s. Abdy noted this shift in Amisus in Pontus (northern Asia Minor) in
a silver didrachm of 135–136 (fig. 10).58 The hair in the front appears low across
the forehead but, more importantly, the rest of the hair is upswept and loosely
wound around the crown of the head. Gone is the elaborate confection of
56 Fittschen and Zanker (1983, 10–13, nos. 9 and 12, pls. 11, 14–15) for for another portrait type of Sabina iden-
tified as the Plotina type due to an evocation of the Trajanic hairstyle, with a variant perhaps alluding to
Sabina as Artemis; Alexandridis 2004, 183, no. 179; Wegner 1956, 88. Both heads, however, share a coiffure,
with the hair combed back, diadem or crest of hair on top, and the hair in the back loosely gathered down
the neck, represented on coins as well; BMCRE 3:538–39, nos. 1885, 1895, 1897; pls. 99.3, 7, 8. Fittschen (2000,
507 n. 6) observes another, the Livia type, in coins characterized by a knot at the nape of the neck. These
types are extant in far fewer sculptural copies.
57 Amandry and Burnett 2015, 3.2:849, for the hair in the queue down the back as an alternate to the style with
hair arranged on top of the head.
58 Abdy 2014, 83, pl. 3, 25, for the silver didrachm, with Artemis on the reverse, of 135–136 CE: Amandry and
Burnett 2015, 3.2:pl. 54, no. 1276 (also no. 1277), and 3.1:147–48, 153.
59 Abdy 2014, 83; BMCRE 3:360, no. 953, pl. 66.2 (aureus), and 359, no. 943, pl. 65.18 (denarius), although difficult
to see the strands of unbraided hair; Adembri and Nicolai 2007, 180–81, for an aureus from the mint of
Rome in the Campana Collection, inv. 3740. Coins from the mint in the city of Rome, however, show the
diadem-like tiers over the forehead (Abdy 2014, 83–84).
60 Amandry and Burnett 2015, 3.2:849.
61 Amandry and Burnett 2014, 3.2:849: “She has two basic types of portrait: one with her hair tied up on top of
her head (in two varieties).”
62 La Rocca et al. 2012, 271, no. I.18 (L. Buccino), on the hairstyle’s intentional allusions to images of late classi-
cal goddesses and Greek art as the ideal model of reference for Hadrianic sculpture; Adembri and Nicolai
2007, 140 (C. Marino), on Sabina being assimilated to Juno in the classicizing Palazzo Massimo bust. Abdy
(2014, 83), however, also considered the “second hair-up” style as the “Aphrodite” style, following Adembri
and Nicolai (2007, 79), who look to sources in late classical Greek statuary.
63 La Rocca et al. 2012, 271, no. I.18 (L.Buccino); Adembri and Nicolai 2007, 140 (C. Marino): “una forte stilizza-
zione, in senso classicistico …”; on the Hellenization of the empire (in relation to the Capitoline Sabina).
64 Fittschen and Zanker, 1983, 10–12, no. 10, pl. 12; Reggiani 2004, 112. Wegner 1956, 129, pls. 44, 46; La Rocca et
al. 2012, 271, no. I.18 (L. Buccino); Rome, Vatican Museums, Sala de’ Busti 359, from the Villa of Antoninus
Pius in Lanuvium; Wegner 1956, 129, pls. 44, 46, Rome, Palazzo Massimo, no. 1222; from the Via Appia; Adem-
bri and Nicolai 2007, 140 (C. Marino).
65 Fittschen and Zanker, 1983, 11.
66 Fittschen and Zanker 1983, 10–11, no. 10, for a list of the 25 replicas.
Figure 15 (bottom)
Portrait bust of Sabina: profile. Rome,
Capitoline Museums, inv. 338 (photo:
Archivio Fotografico dei Musei Capitoli-
ni; © Roma, Sovrintendenza Capitolina
ai Beni Culturali).
71 Fitttschen 1996, 42; La Rocca and Parisi Presicce 2017, 318, cat. no. 7 (L. Buccino).
72 Adembri and Nicolai 2007, 140 (C. Marino); Reggiani 2004, 112 (M. Mattei) for the Capitoline head.
73 Wegner 1956, 84, on Sabina’s birth in the second half of the 80s, as is assumed, and possibly in 86.
74 Carandini 1969, 231–32.
75 Adembri 2007, 79.
76 Wegner 1956, 129, although this date is not supported by Fittschen and Zanker 1983, 10, no. 7; Wood
2015, 255–56.
77 Wegner 1956, 129; but contra Fittschen and Zanker 1983, 11, no. 17; Adembri and Nicolai 2007, 140 (C. Marino)
date: 134–136.
78 BMCRE 3:359 no. 943, pl. 65.18 (aureus); 360, no. 953, pl. 66.2 (aureus); both with the legend, Sabina Augusta;
357, no. 928, pl. 65.11 with the legend, Sabina Augusta Hadriani Aug PP (denarius); Salzmann 1989, 363; note
that there are a number of coins depicting the veiled version of this coiffure (making the back of the head
invisible).
79 Fittschen 1996, 50 n. 12, on another portrait type of Sabina that is not documented by coins, but is rep-
resented in at least three sculptures with a distinctive coiffure marked by a knot of hair formed over the
forehead; note that the Vaison portrait type is not so clearly depicted on coins, which tend to show the
higher, multi-tiered Matidia and Marciana hairstyle.
80 Abdy 2014, 83–84.
81 Abdy 2014, 83–84.
The hairstyle of Sabina’s principal style has been often described as evoking
the images of goddesses and, in particular, those of the Greek late Classi-
cal period. As general remarks, these observations have merit and deserve
a closer look. The relationship of Roman and Greek art, and especially the
former’s recreation of Hellenic forms as expressions of Roman culture and
values are relevant, even though motifs of ideal sculpture are not usually
brought into discussions of Roman portrait heads. Hadrian’s Rome and empire
commissioned a vast production of ideal sculpture through its building proj-
ects, increased mining of marble, and high level of artistic skill. A long and
lively engagement with Hellenism at large, including the visual arts, preceded
Hadrian, who remained deeply impressed by the artistic achievements and
immersed in the intellectual traditions of the Greek past. The retrospective
aspects of Roman culture come to the forefront by the mid-second century.82
Ideal sculpture depicting Artemis and Aphrodite provide comparisons
with their centrally parted coiffures carved in thick, wavy strands in the front.
In the back of the heads, hair is clasped in a blocky knot and swept over the
shoulder or wound in the more commonplace bun (figs. 16, 17).83 The Artemis
of Versailles and the Aphrodite of Capua have been cited in reference to Sabi-
na’s portraiture: the former has been dated to the first and second centuries,
with a consensus weighted toward the Hadrianic period and a likely setting in
a villa or sanctuary;84 the Aphrodite of Capua is a Hadrianic work produced
to adorn the façade of the amphitheater in that city.85 As works forming the
mythological décor of public architecture or opulent residences, the sculp-
tures’ heads are closely matched with classicizing profiles featuring sharply
chiseled noses continuing the contours of the forehead, softly modeled oval
cheeks, full lips, and large chins. The goddess hairstyle with thick undulating
locks held in place by a large diadem characterizes both sculptures.86 Some
Aphrodite coiffures are crowned by two large loops of curls, along with the
82 Hölscher 2004; Anguissola 2015, along with a large volume of recent literature.
83 Smith 1991, figs. 98–106.
84 Pfrommer 1984.
85 Tuck 2015, 238–39.
86 Kousser 2008, 17–44.
Within a single portrait head, the juxtaposition of styled hair worn in real life
and elements of a coiffure worn on statues of Venus may have been intended
to heighten the effects of rarefied beauty. The relegating of the Venus locks to
the back of the head, however, suggests that the mythological allusions were
still recognizable, even if the coiffures were dissembled into its parts. The
flamboyant adornment of the Metropolitan Museum head makes the goddess
locks of Sabina look understated in comparison.
Allusions to Venus in the imagery of imperial women occur in discreet or
understated motifs: drapery slipping off shoulders, long locks down the neck,
or isolated flourishes as seen above.94 Full and explicit Venus coiffures on
portrait in heads of imperial women are rarely seen. One example, however,
is exceptional (fig. 20). From about 90 Ce, the Copenhagen fragment of Julia
Titi displays the hair of Venus Anadyomene with its loose mound of hair
softly piled on the head.95 Hair looped in a broad bow or topknot crowns the
head, although it is not well preserved here. The locks seemingly in free fall
appear wet since Venus was born from the sea, and a statue type often depicts
the goddess wringing out her hair. The high-piled hair seems about to come
undone, cascading in waves that brush the forehead or reach the neck in
tendrils in the back. This Venus statue of Julia Titi had very limited influence
Figure 21 (right)
Silver tetradrachm of Alexan-
dria. Oxford: Ashmolean, inv.
HCR26396 (© Ashmolean
Museum, University of Oxford).
with two extant replicas. The Anadyomene coiffure was not popular in private
portraits of Roman matrons.96
For the depiction of Sabina as a goddess, the provincial coinage provides
further evidence. In the coins of Alexandria of 130–131, Sabina appears as the
goddess Demeter (fig. 21).97 The busts on the dated Alexandrian coins show
Sabina with her hair arranged down in the back, either gathered at the nape
of the neck or hanging in loose locks (or, at least, several snaky tresses). Over
the forehead, the hair is brought back over the brow where it is crowned with a
poppy flower, the attribute of Demeter. On the reverses Sabina is shown seated
holding wheat sheaves and a scepter. The new coin type was likely produced
96 D’Ambra 2016, esp. pl. 6.1, for a portrait of a veiled matron (Fittschen and Zanker, 1983, 56, no. 74, pl. 92, late
Trajanic to early Hadrianic date) with layers of adornment on her head, among which Venus locks are a
decorative accessory.
97 Abdy 2014, 79, pls. 1, 12; 2,13; 2,14, in order: silver tetradrachm; BMCGC no. 15.918; BMCGC no. 15.919; BMCGC
no. 15.568; Amandry and Burnett 2015, 3, 2: pl. 283, nos. 5772, 5774, 5775.
104 Wegner 1956, 127–28; Carandini 1969, 195–96, no. 65, figs. 263–65; Adembri and Nicolai, 2007, 120 (P.
Germoni); plus, two fragmentary statues of Sabina as Ceres in the Ostia Museum (no. 1242 + 1963; no.
1244 + 1964).
105 Alexandridis 2004, 229–31; Fejfer 2015, 99–100.
106 Donzelli 1998, 90, fig. 8, for a graph of the chronological and geographical distribution of the statues; Fejfer
2015, 104 n. 90, on the “wider social make-up” of women being honored with public statues in the late first
and second centuries CE.
107 Alexandridis 2010a, 271, fig. 10.8; Fejfer 2015, 99.
108 Alexandridis 2004, 55–61 n. 517; Alexandridis 2010a, 267–68, 271–72; Fejfer 2015, 99–101.
109 Wrede 1981, 213–19; Fejfer 2015, 99.
Figure 23 (right)
Statue of a matron as Venus
Genetrix. Ostia, Museo Ostiense,
inv. 24 (photo: Carole Raddato
Collection, American Academy
in Rome, Photographic Archive).
115 Wegner 1956, 127–28; 128 (on the Portogallo relief’s veiled head); 129 (on the Palazzo Massimo veiled head);
also Adembri and Nicolai 2007, 120 (P. Germoni).
116 The literature is vast, but see Graindor 1934; Spawforth 1999; Boatwright 2000; Vout 2006; Opper 2008,
32–61, 98–129.
117 Dillon 2010, 120–22, 166–67.
118 Dillon 2010, 162–63.
119 Fejfer 2008, 353, fig. 276 (Vatican Museums, Galleria Chiaramonti, inv. 1352); Buccino 2017b, 25, figs. 40–41.
120 Fejfer 2008, 351–52.
121 Brennan 2018, 80, 213–14.
122 Dillon 2010, 99–102.
Figure 26 (right)
Fragment of a portrait of a girl.
New York, Metropolitan Museum
of Art, Rogers Fund 1911, inv.
11.212.5 (photo: https://www.
metmuseum.org/art/collection/
search/248586; public domain).
127 The “melon” hairstyle should also be placed in this category of traditional hairdressing that persisted from
the late Classical period into Rome; Dillon 2010, 114–16.
128 Bartman 2001, 5, on the erotic allure of female hair and the need to maintain social control.
also values and attitudes.129 The satirists and poets parlayed the social conse-
quences of unruly locks, and acclaimed the lofty hairstyles of the late first and
early second centuries with allusions to celestial spheres above or towering
edifices closer at hand.130 Clearly the high-piled styles increased their wearer’s
visibility and presence.131 The default style of grooming with its simple part
and swept-back locks went unnoticed by the poets.
Sabina’s so-called goddess locks appear to be a version of the plain or
default style with a more modest twist atop. Both the fore and aft of the
coiffure are flatter, lower on the head than that of the tiered Vaison style. The
low-slung chignon is composed of hair gathered, twisted and rotated into a
mound (fig. 27). It seems to be held in place by the pure tension of the of the
twist, yet the band or diadem stabilizes it.132 Less processed or constructed
Sabina’s imagery was prolific. The steady production of the mint in Rome
and the provinces brought her miniature profiles into the hands of many. Her
sculptural portraits appeared in an array of more types than any of the Flavian
or Trajanic imperial women preceding her. Differences in her portrayal on
coins and in marble statuary no doubt reflect the divergent aims of the vary-
ing media: in the coins Sabina also appears in portrait types that evoke former
empresses, while the extant sculpture favors a novel look. The coins demon-
strate the circulation of several of the four (or five) portrait types in circula-
tion at the same time; they were also produced (intermittently) throughout
the reign. Should we not assume the same, a spectrum of Sabina images, for
the marble heads? Coins can provide dates for portraits, and there is now
dating criteria from Sabina’s provincial coinage. More significantly, though, is
the persistence of the Vaison type as it displayed the tiered hairstyle worn by
Roman matrons. Sabina, thus, calibrated one of her looks to be in step with her
peers, and retained this look in one of her portrait types.
The hairstyle of her principal type commands the most attention in the
art historical and archaeological scholarship. The centrally parted tresses
appear as a less sumptuous manner of hairdressing, although with a “decep-
tively simple” twist atop. The lower, looser locks may have provided a point
of contact with the default style of Roman women (recall the Ceres statue as
well), but with a heightening of effects. Sabina’s hairdressing registers as real
but rarefied, that is, as seemingly natural and uncultivated yet also sophis-
ticated and refined at the same time. It is precisely this effect of effortless
elegance that makes Sabina’s locks so attractive and appealing to modern
viewers. The absence of ornament fashioned from highly processed hair
and its relaxation from the rigid plaited constructions set Sabina apart from
Roman women in this singular portrait type. Sabina’s signature style was not
emulated by women in Rome or the provinces. That its low-slung locks evoke
the ephemerality of hair may not have merited admiration from those whose
hair was trained to stand upright on their heads. It is remarkable that Sabina’s
beauty is noted in a poem inscribed on a statue in Egypt in November of 130
I, Balbilla, when the rock spoke, heard the voice of the divine Memnon or
Phamenoth. I came here with the lovely queen Sabina. The course of the sun was
in its first hour, in the fifteenth year of Hadrian’s reign, on the twenty-fourth day of
the month Hathyr. [I wrote this] on the twenty-fifth day of the month Hathyr.
Acknowledgments
I would like to thank the three anonymous readers whose thoughtful
comments and criticism immeasurably improved this article. I am also grate-
ful for Hans Rupprecht Goette’s assistance in acquiring images, and for Corey
Brennan’s in providing the text of Julia Balbilla’s inscription. Most of all, I am
greatly appreciative of the editor’s sustained attention and care during the
publication process (and also for helping tracking down images of provin-
cial coins).
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