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Journal of Rural Studies 19 (2003) 1–7

Editorial
The quality ‘turn’ and alternative food practices:
reflections and agenda
1. Introduction European debate on economy–culture relations in
economic geography (Crang, 1997; Sayer, 1997, 2001;
The ‘turn’ to quality associated with the proliferation Ray and Sayer, 1999; Gregson et al., 2001).
of alternative agro-food networks (AAFNs) operating Although these parallel literatures and debates have
at the margins of mainstream industrial food circuits has furnished operational concepts, their wider themes and
stimulated a significant body of research, and this problematics have exerted relatively little influence in
Journal has played a prominent role in its dissemination AAFN research. For example, Granovetter’s (1985)
(Morris and Young, 2000; Ilbery and Kneafsey, 2000; reworking of Polanyi’s (1944) concept of social embedd-
Hinrichs, 2000). These introductory comments offer edness, although widely utilized, has tended to escape
some reflections on this growing sub-field and its close interrogation and theoretical refinement. Among
conceptual repertoire, a brief overview of the following the few exceptions, several early explorations of the role
collection of papers, and some suggestions for future of AAFNs in endogenous rural development did draw
research. critically on meso-level theories, notably Jonathan
A newcomer to rural studies could be forgiven for Murdoch’s (2000) review of the network paradigm,
thinking that this recent flood of AAFN scholarship is a which builds on the distinction by Marsden et al. (1990)
contemporary variant of rural sociology’s long devotion between ‘vertical’ and ‘horizontal’ forms of rural
to local community research (Mormont, 1990; Phillips, development. Meso-level explorations of network the-
1998; Day, 1998; Liepins, 2000).Certainly the notion of ories, including actor-network theory, more recently
community is enjoying something of an academic have given way to convention theory, and the typology
revival, particularly in the aftermath of the gradual developed in Salais and Storpor’s (1992) ‘worlds of
shift in European rural policy towards a territorial production’ version of this perspective to frame the
endogenous development model (Ray, 1998; Ward and ‘turn’ to quality as a contested process of transition
McNicholas, 1998). Genealogical affinities aside, much (Murdoch and Miele, 1999, 2002; Murdoch et al., 2000).
AAFN research complements this renewed interest in That is, a movement from the ‘industrial world’, with its
the local, and often is determinedly micro-analytical and heavily standardized quality conventions and logic of
ethnographic in its investigation of place-based and mass commodity production, to the ‘domestic world’,
socially embedded alternative food practices. At this where quality conventions embedded in trust, tradition
level, embeddedness, trust and place are among the key and place support more differentiated, localized and
concepts deployed to understand the quality ‘turn’ in ‘ecological’ products and forms of economic organiza-
food practices. Here, quality evokes the cultural but, it is tion.
suggested, without seriously qualifying the production- In the main, however, writing on AAFNs has not
centred political economic analysis of AAFNs. refined or developed these meso-level theoretical per-
Elsewhere in the social sciences, struggles to appro- spectives. Embeddedness, trust, place and their variants
priate the notions of embeddedness and trust have continue as the conceptual touchstones but in the service
drawn economic sociology and heterodox economics of empirically grounded analyses of alternative food
into productive dialogue on the sources of institutional practices, institutional mechanisms of rural governance
change and modes of economic coordination (Wilk- and policy, and the potential of AAFNs as engines of
inson, 1997). These exchanges also informed the ‘new’ rural economic dynamism.
industrial geography literature on Marshallian indus- Although these general observations broadly hold
trial districts and the competitive resilience of certain across AAFN scholarship, there is a significant lack of
regional economies, notably Third Italy, in a globalizing congruence on several points between the North
world economy (Scott, 1988; Storpor, 1992; Amin and American and European literatures. Despite a common
Robins, 1990; Amin and Thrift, 1992; Harrison, 1992). micro-analytic repertoire, real differences emerge in the
The analytics of social embeddedness and trust in ways in which micro-studies are linked to intermediate
shaping economic activity is a prominent theme in the levels of analysis. In a nutshell, North American

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2 Editorial / Journal of Rural Studies 19 (2003) 1–7

research typically is in conversation with activist circles, The oppositional ‘voice’ of European research is
academic and lay, and is concerned pre-eminently with heard primarily in the characterization of AAFNs as
the oppositional status and socio-political transforma- sources of resistance to the disruptive effects of global
tive potential of AAFNs, whereas European research competition (Murdoch and Miele, 1999, 2003). By re-
focuses more strongly on incremental institutional embedding rural food practices in regional eco-social
change and is addressed, explicitly or implicitly, to an relations, it is suggested that AAFNs create ‘new
audience of policymakers. economic spaces’ that are more capable of withstanding
Perhaps reflecting their relative exclusion from policy the countervailing, disembedding forces of globaliza-
circles, North American researchers have strong the- tion, unfettered markets, an increasingly complex
matic links and normative commitments to the social division of labour, and corporate power (Sayer, 1997,
movements contesting mainstream, corporate industrial 2001).
agro-food systems and the hegemonic agricultural Although this overview does not do justice to the
techno-scientific complex. In this arena, AAFNs figure complex and nuanced analyses of AAFNs found in the
as material and symbolic expressions of alternative eco- North American and European literatures, their differ-
social imaginaries, as the public furore over the ences can be represented, grosso modo, in terms of the
regulation of organic agriculture in the United States relative emphasis given to these new organizational
revealed in such bold relief (Vos, 2000). With this forms as bearers of transformative political change, on
significant exception of concrete institutional struggle, the one hand, and as exemplars of an alternative
however, the North American literature on AAFNs institutional model of rural development, on the other.
returns insistently to the central question of their
capacity to wrest control from corporate agribusiness
and create a domestic, sustainable, and egalitarian food 2. Workshop papers
system (Allen, 1999; Buttel, 1997; Kloppenburg et al.,
1996). The papers collected here were first presented at a
In contrast, European AAFN research is situated workshop, International Perspectives on Alternative
within a wide-ranging public debate on food safety, Agro-Food Networks: Quality, Embeddedness, Bio-Poli-
agricultural policy reform and contested trajectories of tics, held at the University of California, Santa Cruz in
rural economy and society. Periodic food ‘scares’, October, 2001. The workshop was prompted by the
opposition to genetically modified foods, and the recent growing salience of ‘quality’ foods and associated
severe outbreak of foot and mouth disease in the UK institutional innovations, including direct marketing,
have kept these debates in the public eye. In more short food supply chains, local food systems, and the
specific institutional terms, European research is con- renewed legitimization of artisanal food practices and
textualized by the announced, though so far halting, re- regional cuisines. Contributors were variously invited to
orientation of the Common Agricultural Policy (CAP) interrogate the operational concepts deployed in local
away from its virtually exclusive sectoral emphasis on case-studies of quality food practices, explore the new
agricultural production questions towards a wider, more bio-political spaces being created by the quality ‘turn’,
endogenous, and multi-dimensional concept of rural and to situate these developments on a broader
development. This re-orientation was heralded by the international canvas. Although the papers certainly
European Commission report, The Future of Rural mirror the traits and directions of the rapidly evolving
Society (1988) and the redirection of Community literature on quality foods and AAFNs identified above,
Structural Funds to declining rural areas, followed by the expectations of the workshop have borne substantial
a raft of subsequent policy declarations (Gray, 2000). fruit in the present collection.
The slow process of CAP reform was initiated by the The principal analytical categories marshalled to
MacSharry reforms of 1992 and carried on by Agenda explicate the quality ‘turn’—quality, embeddedness,
2000, which introduced the Rural Development Regula- and the local—are all constructs whose material and
tion (1257/99), the so-called ‘second pillar’ of the CAP symbolic meanings are vigorously contested. Indeed, it
(Lowe et al., 2001). is precisely the difficulty of deciphering these meanings
These policy debates, and the frictions and resistances and their complex expression in social behavior,
they engender, provide the mise en scene for the organizational forms, discourse and power relations
advocacy by some European scholars of AAFNs as that defines the theoretical and empirical challenge
the dynamic, innovative expression of the ‘new’ rural presented by the ‘turn’ to quality in food practices. The
development. That is, as precursors of a new paradigm following collection of papers scrutinizes these concep-
of rural development (Ploeg et al., 2000; Marsden et al., tual categories in different locales and geo-political
1999), which marks the transition away from the scales but, as socio-material constructs, these notions
putatively ‘exhausted’ and crisis-ridden model of con- are intrinsically ambivalent, contingent and dynamic.
ventional industrial agriculture. That is, the quality ‘turn’ is not singular or monolithic,
Editorial / Journal of Rural Studies 19 (2003) 1–7 3

with a unique set of constitutive elements, meanings and encompassing a variety of consumer motivations and
politics. giving rise to a wide range of politics’’.
Such ambivalence and contingency emerge with The conflation of the quality ‘turn’ to local food with
particular clarity in the paper by Becky Mansfield on organic produce also is unsettled by Clare Hinrichs’
the international surimi seafood industry. Adopting a paper on efforts to relocalize the Iowa food system,
relational approach, Mansfield’s analysis highlights the symbolized here by the Iowa-grown banquet meal. This
interactive, mutually constitutive nature of the heartland of intensive commodity production provides
biophysical and social entities which are translated an unexpected yet fascinating terrain for localized food
into three different quality assemblages. These appar- systems and explorations of the ‘‘fractures between the
ently disembedded activities, in fact, are intimately spatial, the environmental and the social’’. As Hinrichs
embedded in their respective relational, socionatural observes, these fractures can accommodate conserva-
networks. In the Latourian sense of network (Latour, tive, reactionary politics, imbued with nativist senti-
1999), these assemblages interactively engender ments, rather than the progressive, moral and
transformations in biophysical and social realities, associative economy so often imputed to localized food
and so shape the biology of fish, their biogeography, systems on the strength of their social embeddedness.
the structure of the fishing industry and consumption, Regional identity constructed around local food, in this
for example. In other words, quality is to be understood case the Iowa-grown banquet meal, can engender a
as a relational materiality that is transacted and ‘‘defensive politics of localization’’ that obscure differ-
produced ‘in relation’ by these socionatural exchanges. ence, inequalities and social exclusion. Hinrichs’ analysis
Seemingly poles apart, there are striking parallels to be thus complements Winter’s paper, sounding a salutary
drawn between the production of quality in this sector cautionary note that ‘‘The differing political inflections
of wild-caught foodstuffs and the quality constructions in food systems localization begin with the spatial
enacted in the modulated ‘domestic worlds’ of terroir in referent for ‘local’ but vary in how they attend to social
France and ‘good food’ in South-West Ireland discussed and environmental relations’’.
in the papers by Beth Barham and Colin Sage, The forging of regional cultural identity also is the
respectively. theme of Colin Sage’s study of ‘good food’ networks in
Mansfield’s treatment of quality construction and South-West Ireland. The notion of ‘regard’ (Offer, 1997;
embeddedness in the global surimi seafood industry Lee, 2000) is used to frame the strands of personal
belies the widespread association of quality food interaction, reciprocity and moral authority that pro-
products with specific local ecologies, histories and close duce value and cultural meaning, and in which
interpersonal relations. This association is commonly producers and consumers of ‘good food’ are entangled.
attributed to heightened consumer anxieties about food Biographies of ‘key individuals’ illustrate critical nodal
safety and demands for greater transparency in produc- points in these material and symbolic exchanges, and
tion practices, traceability, and other modalities of reveal the complex interplay between place and moral
quality assurance. The premises and omissions found authority that underlies the reproduction of this ‘good
in this juxtaposition of quality, place and ecological food’ network. The economic and regulatory pressures
embeddedness are teased out by several papers in this weighing on organic farmers, artisanal food producers,
collection. These reveal, if further persuasion were short food supply chains and local markets in the
needed, that the ‘local’ is not an innocent term (Harvey, struggle to reembed regional production–consumption
1996). relations also emerge strongly in Sage’s account.
In his paper on ‘the new food economy’, identified by Key individuals have an equally prominent role in the
some writers with quality consumerism and the rise of study of alternative food initiatives (AFIs) in California
organic foods, Michael Winter challenges the isomorph- by Patricia Allen and her colleagues. Taking a direct
ism between organics and local embeddedness implicit in approach to the question of the ‘tectonic’ potential of
claims that ‘‘quality food systems are being reembedded AFIs to transform agro-food systems, their analysis
in local ecologies’’ (Murdoch et al., 2000, p. 108). In a examines the agendas and strategies for change articu-
case-study of five rural areas in England and Wales, lated by the leaders of these organizations. The
Winter and his colleagues were surprised to find that preliminary results reported here suggest that this
purchases of conventionally produced local foods were metaphor of structural change is not shared by AFI
more common than those of organic foods. Winter leaders but is rather a product of academics’ idealized
situates this finding within ideologies of ‘defensive framing of AFI activities. In these interview findings,
localism’ and suggests that local food purchases acquire ecologically sound food systems are given clear pre-
totemic significance in terms of support for local cedence over goals of social justice, and the authors
farming. As Winter concludes, ‘‘Far from heralding an report a related preference for entrepreneurial, market-
alternative post-global green future,ythe turn to local based solutions emphasizing the diversity of food choice
food may cover many different forms of agriculture, over more politicized, entitlement approaches to change.
4 Editorial / Journal of Rural Studies 19 (2003) 1–7

This neo-liberal orientation underlines the conclusion premise of a ‘‘relatively homogeneous techno-normative
that ‘‘In general, California AFI organizations are landscape for collective action’’. As Friedberg observes,
working to develop alternatives within the overall apart from case-studies of Fair Trade, the literature on
structure of the current agrifood systemy’’ networks, quality conventions, and artisanal production
The tensions evident in academic debates on AAFNs and marketing systems is narrowly ethnocentric in its
and sustainable agriculture movements regarding their focus on North America and Western Europe. In the
role as catalysts of change in food systems also inform absence of a common landscape of shared behaviorial
Neva Hassanein’s contribution. This paper, leavened by norms, moral economies, and institutional protections
her activist experience, provides an exploratory analysis against risk, trust provides a problematic foundation for
of a pragmatic, incrementalist approach to change. This quality food networks. In the transnational and
discussion is grounded in Tim Lang’s (1999) notion of transcultural trade in perishable produce between
food democracy and the activities of the Toronto Food Europe and Africa, Friedburg argues that ‘‘what is
Policy Council are seen as an auspicious attempt to described as a trust relationship is often just a situation
institutionalize its practice. Although these conceptual where one or both parties has no choice but to hope for
and organizational initiatives are embryonic, Hassanein luck or mercy. This is perhaps especially true when
makes a persuasive case for the view that ‘‘the major retailers seek ‘quality’ in countries and regions
thoughtful practice of pragmatic politics and the where producers have few alternative sources of income.
development of a strong food democracy will be keys Economies of qualityyare not necessarily less exploi-
to transformation in the long run’’. tative than others’’.
Fair Trade also is built on a transformative impera- Asymmetries between globalizing agro-food systems
tive, emerging from left politics and international and export-dependent food networks re-emerge in
solidarity movements in the 1960s and 1970s as a Richard Le Heron’s paper, which explores the changing
project to challenge and displace conventional channels nexus of food governance, global market quality
of international trade. In tracing more recent develop- specifications, and export supply chain management in
ments, Marie-Christine Renard argues that the ‘alter- the ‘‘neo-liberal economic space’’ and ‘‘meta-regulatory
native’ status of Fair Trade is endangered by its context’’ in which New Zealand’s agro-food sectors are
increasing utilization of mainstream retail distribution situated. The different facets of this nexus are revealed
circuits, its commercial success, and the imitative by three case-studies: the debate catalyzed by the recent
‘ethical’ labeling strategies of multinational corpora- Royal Commission on Genetic Modification on food
tions, nation-states and multilateral organizations. governance and new forms of regulation consonant with
Renard explores the growing contradictions between New Zealand’s participitation in globalizing food
the original transformative mission of the Fair Trade markets, the response of corporate organic export
project, on the one hand, and the pragmatic goal of networks to international certification standards, and
enlarging Northern markets for fair trade products, on the negotiation of new quality norms in the sheepmeat
the other. Renard’s discussion of these tensions is supply chain to comply with UK supermarkets’
framed in bleak relief by the unprecedented crisis in demands for production to precise specifications. Taken
international coffee markets. individually, these cases are illustrative of ‘‘a watershed
The international commodity interface between Eur- in regulatory strategy’’, ‘‘the rise of audit-type technol-
ope and Third World countries also concerns Susan ogies’’ of governance, and ‘‘a more formalized contrac-
Freidberg, but her two case-studies are deployed to tual framework’’ of farmer–processor relations,
demonstrate the continuing significance of historical respectively. However, Le Heron makes a compelling
cultural and geo-economic conditions in structuring argument that these governance questions possibly have
contemporary global agro-food networks. That is, the paradigmatic implications insofar as New Zealand is an
fresh produce export–import trade linking the UK and exemplar of a wider, neo-liberalizing project, involving
Zambia and France and Burkina Faso ‘‘must be situated new principles and institutional forms of economic
in circuits of commerce and patronage that were coordination.
established under colonial rule and have been largely The local is the initial scale of analysis in Beth
reinforced by postcolonial development aid’’. Fried- Barham’s discussion of food governance based on the
berg’s historically informed ethnography reveals how notion of terroir and its institutionalized expression in
these modern commodity networks follow ‘‘in the deep the French policy regulating labels of origin (appelation
ruts worn by earlier relations of domination and d’origin control!ee, or AOC labels). However, as Barham
extraction, on both a macro and micro-scale’’. relates, the conventions of quality governing this
This optic also brings the concept of quality, social intimate, bounded ‘domestic world’ of immemorial
embeddedness, and trust into sharper critical perspective landscapes and inherited craft knowledges have pur-
by emphasizing that their significance in orchestrating chase at larger scales through both commercial relation-
economic activity depends crucially on the unexamined ships and international trade policy disputes. Thus the
Editorial / Journal of Rural Studies 19 (2003) 1–7 5

recent European Union labeling scheme (2081/92), An attendant risk, and one present in the AAFN
modelled on the French tradition and which confers literature, is that new localized economic forms are seen
Protected Designation of Origin on food products, is uncritically as precursors of an associative economy by
rejected by the US as a breach of WTO principles. virtue of their embeddedness in interpersonal ties of
Barham’s analysis emphasizes not only the situational reciprocity and trust. However, the dualism implicit in
characteristics of terroir, entangled in the histories of this formulation frames such ties in unidimensional
people and place—‘‘cohabited nature’’, ‘‘cohabited terms, obscuring social inequalities and the relations of
landscape’’ as she puts it—but also the role that the power at work in these activities. As Hinrichs (2000)
state and extra-local institutions must play in protecting observes, to assume that the local embeddedness of
and valorizing the intellectual property rights of this economic forms precludes exploitative commodified
socionatural quality assemblage. The paper concludes relations and instrumental behavior ‘‘conflates spatial
with some reflections on the possibility of transplanting relations with social relations’’ (p. 301).
this strategy of territorial valorization to food networks As a protagonist in the economy–culture debates in
embedded in other cultures. economic geography, Sayer (2001) critiques the litera-
The papers assembled in this collection address the ture on embeddedness, networks and trust as a cultural
configuration of alternative and conventional agro-food gloss which legitimates ‘‘a softer treatment of capital-
networks at different geo-economic and geo-political ism’’ (p. 700). It does so by neglecting powerful
scales, utilizing operational concepts drawn mainly from disembedding forces (Sayer, 1997) and its tendency ‘‘to
economic sociology and, though less prominently, other play downysystem imperativesywhich even the most
network theories. These varied spatial locations empha- embedded economic relations may not manage to
size that the social embeddedness of AAFNs, even in its survive’’ (Sayer, 2001, p. 700). In addition, the embed-
quintessential local expressions, is framed by dynamic ding of economic practices in relations of trust ‘‘is often
interaction with extra-local processes and actors, adapted to the system pressures of market forces,ymay
whether multinational retail multiples or international be instrumentally constructed to protect the pursuit of
regulatory regimes. This awareness invites critical self-interesty[and] often involves relations of domina-
analysis of the political economy of these emergent tion, some of them based on gender, class or race’’ (p.
economic forms, their integration at larger scales, and 698).
role in reconfiguring trajectories of rural development. Where Sayer (2001) warns that ‘‘we should be
suspicious’’ of the cultural inflections associated with
the notion of embeddedness, Gregson et al. (2001) see
this theoretical category as being deployed by political
3. Future research themes economy-inspired economic geographers in order to
control ‘‘the terms of engagement with culture’’ (p. 623)
These reflections on the quality ‘turn’ in food in ways which privilege economy over culture. On this
practices and the foci of the Santa Cruz workshop view, culture is invoked variously as local milieu,
papers suggest several topics for further research. embeddedness, networks and knowledge/learning pro-
In view of its conceptual centrality, and developments cesses, but it is incorporated analytically ‘‘as an add-in
in correlate fields, the notion of social embeddedness to assist in the explanation of phenomena and activities
requires markedly more scrutiny in the rural studies seen as primarily economic’’ (p. 623). These categories,
literature. Some interesting theoretical lines of inquiry as utilized within the political economy tradition,
are revealed by recent interrogations of this concept in support instrumentalist readings of culture as an
economic sociology and economic geography. Thus in environmental resource and its spatial analysis as
her critique of embeddedness and its ‘‘largely unchal- ‘‘bounded and relatively stable’’, with the corollary
lenged position as the central organizing principle of that, as an environmental attribute, ‘‘economy and
economic sociology’’, Krippner (2001, p. 775) argues culture get to be interwoven only in the specificities of
that this concept has been deployed in ways that particular placesy’’ (p. 628).
privilege a single aspect of social life—the drive to Without reviewing these economy–culture debates at
connectivity—which for analytical purposes is examined length, the economic geography literature clearly affords
in isolation from the broad constellation of social forces. agro-food studies some promising avenues of engage-
The danger here is that the market is defined against the ment. For example, the critique by Gregson et al. (2001)
social economy and characterized in terms of ‘disem- of instrumental analyses of local milieu, embeddedness
bedded’ arm’s length transactions, which are ‘‘presumed and networks resonates strongly with their deployment
to proliferate where social relations are absent. In in AAFN research. Spatial valorization is the dynamic of
contrast, embedded ties defy market logic, inhabiting Ray’s (1998) ‘‘culture economy’’ approach to rural
spaces where social relations are dense and well development, it infuses analyses of embedded short food
developed’’. (Krippner, 2001, p. 795). supply chains and other AAFNs, and is the foundation
6 Editorial / Journal of Rural Studies 19 (2003) 1–7

of claims that these innovative economic forms and Division of Social Sciences is gratefully acknowledged.
practices represent a new rural development paradigm Finally, my editorial efforts have been enhanced
(Ploeg et al., 2000; Marsden et al., 1999). immeasurably by the advice of Viv Cloke, and the
Sayer’s (2001) stricture that ‘‘The focus on embedd- unstinting and insightful contributions from the ‘in-
edness can inadvertently produce an overly benign view visible college’ of colleagues who refereed papers for this
of economic relations and processesy’’ (p. 698) also issue.
merits close attention in the AAFN literature. This
caution is particularly relevant for evaluations of rural
development strategies based on territorial value-added,
market-led prescriptions. In general, scholarship in this
sub-field has focused overwhelmingly on the supply side References
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