HOW TO CHOOSE

THE RIGHT SUNSREEN

FOR YOUR SKIN TYPE
Agenda
01 INTRODUCTION

SUNSCREEN AND SKIN

02 COLOR
SUNSCREEN AND SKIN
03 CONDITION
Related Sebum Production and Skin texture

SUNSCREEN AND SPECIAL

04 SKIN CONDITION
INTRODUCTION
 Sunlight / Sunrays

1 The earth is constantly exposed to radiation from the sun ➔ ultraviolet, Sunlight
visible, and infrared rays.

2 UVB: 280/290 nm – 315/320 nm Ultraviolet

UVA: UVA1 (340 nm - 400 nm) and UVA2 (320 nm - 340 nm)

5% - 10% UV reaches the earth’ surface ➔ high energy → damages the UVB
3
outer layer of the skin → redness, painful, pigmentation changes
(tanning), premature aging

95% UV that reaches the earth’ surface ➔ low energy → adverse effect UVA
4 of UVA is the deep dermis → photo damage: dryness, uneven
pigmentation, skin darkening, loss of the elastic quality
5 400nm - 760nm ➔ nearly 50% of the sunrays reaching at sea level Visible
Light

6 760 nm - 1,000,000 nm ➔ >40% of the sun rays reaching at sea level Irradiation
→ warm Rays
Sunscreen

Product to protect Active ingredients May contain other

human skin from affect the structure substances →
UV radiation ➔ or function of the emollients,
prevent the body by absorbing, preservatives or
detrimental effects reflecting, or stabilizers,
of UV: skin cancer, scattering UV emulsifiers,
photoaging, photo- ➔ Contain one or fragrances, and
exacerbated more UVFs that colouring
conditions, and may be physical, compound
pigmentary chemical, or both
disorders
 Sunscreen

Broad spectrum The sunscreen The skin’s natural

sunscreens: should be sunscreens:
provide UVA safeguard, non- squalane, proteins,
protection that is irritating, nontoxic absorbing lipids
proportional to its and photo stable. and nucleotides
UVB protection
 Protection Value

SPF
A reflection of sun protection against the biologic effect of UVB and
lesser UVA2 (320 - 340 nm)

PA
Protection against UVA → persistent pigment darkening (PPD) ➔ the dose of
UVA required to induce PPD observed 2 to 24 hours after exposure of
sunscreen-protected skin is compared to that of sunscreen-unprotected skin →
the UVA protection factor (PA) ➔ PA+ = PPD 2 – 4; PA++ = PPD 4 – 8;
PA+++ = PPD 8 – 16; PA++++ = PPD >16

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Organic / Chemical
UVA Filters
Benzophenones (Oxybenzone,
Sulisobenzone, Dioxybenzone);
Avobenzone (Parsol 1789);
Meradimate;
Bislisulizole disodium;
Diethylaminohydroxy-
benzoylhexylbenzoate;
Ecamsule
Methyl Anthranilate
Broad Spectrum Filters
Ecamsule (Mexoryl SX);
Silatriazole (Mexoryl XL);
Bemotrizinol (Tinosorb S);
Bisoctrizole (Tinosorb M)
Topical Sunscreen Agent
Inorganic / Physical
UVB Filters
Zinc oxide;
PABA derivates (Padimate o); Titanium dioxide;
Cinnamates (Octinoxate, Others (Iron oxide, Red
Cinoxate; veterinary petrolatum, Kaolin,
Salicylates (Octisalate, Calamine, Ichthammol, Talc)
Homosalate, Trolamine
salicylate);
Octocrylene;
Ensulizole;
Ethylhexyl triazone
 Special skin
Skin Colour Skin condition
condition

Skin Fitzpatrick skin type,

fair or colour skin,
Related to sebum
production: normal,
Children, pregnant
woman, atopic, etc.
etc. dry, oily,
Type combination, etc.
SUNSCREEN AND SKIN COLOR
Caucasian SPT I–IV, Asian and Latin
American SPT IV–V, African SPT VI
 Skin Colour and Sunlight Filter

Melanin equally filters all

wavelengths of light

Dark skin have an

intrinsic SPF 13.4
and light skin 3.4
Dark skin transmits
UV 7.4% & light skin
29.4% ➔ UV light
reaches the upper
dermis of light skin
Light skin need at 4-5X than dark skin
least more 10 of
SPF value than
dark skin
 Skin Colour and DNA Damage
Dark skin has a
higher quantity of
Protection against
melanin distributed in
UVB is more
the upper layers of
DNA repair more important for
the epidermis and a
efficient in dark individuals with
higher eumelanin/
skin than light skin light skin
pheomelanin ratio

After UVB exposure Light skin: higher Minimum SPF:

➔ dark skin: DNA risk of sunburn, ➔Dark skin: 30
damage observed in DNA damage and ➔Light skin: 50
the upper epidermis skin cancers
➔ light skin: also
affects the basal
layers → stem cells
location
Skin Colour and Cosmetic Elegance

Cosmetic Patients with Use organic/ Consider risk and

elegance is the darker skin tones chemical benefit
most important → cite the sunscreen
feature of undesirable white
sunscreen residue
➔physical
sunscreens →
increased white
coating residue
left on the skin
Chemical
Sunscreen

✓ Long-term effects of systemic absorption of ingredients in chemical sunscreen

✓ More prone to hypersensitivity reactions → erythema, edema, and irritation
✓ Superior protection with physical sunscreens
✓ No organic filter completely blocks the UVB and/or UVA rays from the skin
 Solution

Tinted physical
sunscreens or mixing Micronized zinc oxide has
foundation with a lower refractive index
physical sunscreen
1 3
compared to micronized
titanium dioxide →
appears less white
Micronized/
nanoparticles (<100 nm
in size) metal oxide
inorganic UV filters ➔
minimize the white 2 Wear enough sunscreen
to minimize a white cast
coating → enhancing
the aesthetic
4
appearance of the final
product
Skin Colour and Hyperpigmentation

Darker skin more

prone to
hyperpigmentation Protection with Relies primarily on
induced by VL and tinted sunscreens sun avoidance and
UVA → providing containing iron use physical
optimal protection oxides and/or protective
against VL pigmentary (clothing, hats,
(specifically high- titanium dioxide glasses) ➔
energy violet/blue → darker shade antioxidants and
light) is beneficial and smaller radical quenchers:
in dark-skinned particle size give being investigated
individuals ➔ no better protection for VL protection
photoprotection
against VL
SUNSCREEN AND SKIN
CONDITION
Related Sebum Production and Skin Texture
 Four Skin Types
Base on Sebum Production and Texture
Dry skin
Normal skin Dry parched appearance,
tendency to flake easily, inability
Fine even texture, supple
to retain moisture, insufficiently
and smooth surface,
sebum production
proper oil balance

Combination skin
Oily skin
Central greasy panel
Skin surface oily ➔ over (forehead, nose, chin) and
secretion of sebum large dry panel (cheeks and
pore. around the mouth) .
 Normal Skin Combination
Skin
Easy to choose sunscreen Combination for dry and oily
→ can be thinking other skin or between
consideration ➔
Recommended SPF > 30/50
sunscreen
 Dry Skin
Sunscreen contain hydrating
ingredients (moisturizer): hyaluronic acid,
ceramide, or glycerine is advisable ➔
natural ingredients: aloe vera or honey

Especially for dry skin ➔ chemical

sunscreen → may cause side
effects: erythema, edema, and
irritation ➔ Inorganic sunscreen

Use a cream or ointment

formulation of sunscreen
agent
 Oily and/or Acne Prone Skin

Non-comedogenic, lightweight, non-

greasy formulations that absorb quickly
➔ water-based > oil-based ➔ gel, lotion,
or liquid formulations ➔ products with
matte finish to avoid adding a shiny
appearance
?
Organic → drier than mineral sunscreens,
not cause irritatating feeling (especially if
being treated with isotretinoin)
Inorganic sunscreens → low absorption,
non-comedogenic (not clog pores) ➔
currently can be formulated

Cleanse skin prior to applying

sunscreen ➔ sunscreen recommended
to decrease risks of phototoxicity of
topical and systemic acne drugs
 Oily and/or Acne Prone Skin
Sunscreens contain tea tree oil or
niacinamide → oil control ingredients
Inorganic sunscreen can cause
irritation (pain and burning), especially
if being treated with isotretinoin
Patients must be informed:
UVA (specifically UVA1) and blue light
(400nm) ➔ have anti inflammatory effects
UVB ➔ cause inflammation, increase
sebum production and proliferation of
keratinocytes
Avoid fragrances and minimize
oils contain
SUNSCREEN AND SPECIAL
SKIN CONDITION
 Sunscreen for Atopic Dermatitis and
Sensitive Skin

Organic sunscreen
➔ Avobenzone and
octocrylene are rare
Consider inorganic sensitizers and The multiple
sunscreens → low considered safe
ingredients combined
Avoid using alcohol-
absorption (<1%) to achieve broad
based sunscreens on
Still special attention ➔ Benzophenone-3 spectrum UVA and
eczematous or
in using nanoparticles (oxybenzone) and UVB protection →
inflamed skin
inorganic UV filter→ The higher the SPF
butyl methoxy- Like for dry skin ➔
can causing (such as formulas of
dibenzoylmethane → better use sunscreen
photoallergic contact avoid, potential for SPF 50 or greater),
contain hydrating
dermatitis contact dermatitis the higher the risk of
ingredients
irritation for sensitive
skin types
 Sunscreen for Children
The best practices: keep children
06
in the shade and in lightweight,
sun protective clothing
Some delivery vehicles (sprays
05
and rub-on sticks) are less
messy, but difficult to apply
evenly → missed spots →
pattern of sunburn
Sprays also result in inhalation
and eye exposure
04
Sunscreens are not
01
recommended for infants
younger than 6 months old
02
Generally, sunscreens for
babies only contain inorganic
filters
03
Use a lotion form with broad
spectrum and SPF of 15 or higher
Avoid using alcohol-based
sunscreen products for this
age group
 Sunscreen for Pregnant and
Breastfeeding Woman

During pregnancy, sunscreen is recommended to prevent skin damage

01
from UV radiation (pigmentary disorders, especially melasma)

Inorganic sunscreen proven safe by toxicology tests, including

02
teratogenic tests → but studies regarding safety of nanoparticulate during
pregnancy are not available

Chemical sunscreens can be absorbed systemically → physical blockers are

03
preferred

Breastfeeding ➔ should not be applied too close to the areola

04
 Sunscreen for Photosensitive Diseases

01 Including: cutaneous lupus erythematosus, xeroderma pigmentosum, erythropoietic

protoporphyria, rosacea, etc.
Content Here Content Here Content Here

02 Patients with photosensitive skin diseases: important to provide them with specific
instructions and guidelines to incorporate photoprotection in daily life:

1 Strict avoidance of sunlight exposure and other sources of ultraviolet

2 Physical protection (clothing, hat, umbrella, and sunglasses)
3 Broad-spectrum sunscreens → sun protection factor ≥50
4 Oral antioxidants
5 Removal of photosensitizing drugs
6 Vitamin D supplementation → prevent vitamin D deficiency
 Sunscreen for Photosensitive Diseases

03
Content Here Content Here Content Here is activated
Erythropoietic protoporphyria: the accumulated phototoxic protoporphyrin
by blue light → use VL filter mention above

04 Rosacea: Select sunscreens containing dimethicone or cyclomethicone to reduce

irritation and repair the skin barrier
Physical sunscreen ➔ problems associated with chemical sunscreens in rosacea-prone
skin types ➔ changes UV rays into heat → increased chance of redness → exacerbate
flushing
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Thank you