Accuracy Assures Iconic Taste

Application Note
The Rheology of Swiss Cheese Fondue

Melting cheese is not an art. But making a fondue that sticks well to the
bread and whose aroma lingers on the palate—there are many family
recipes, tips and tricks for this. But what’s really behind it? A researcher
has found out.

Cheese fondue is a traditional Swiss dish that has enjoyed popularity around the world.
In Swiss kitchens there is a lot of empirical knowledge about how to prepare the perfect fon-
due with cheese, wine, starch and seasoning that is neither too thick nor too thin and that
will cling to bread for easy consumption. However, it had never been scientifically investigated
so far which ingredient with which amount has which influence on the rheology of fondue
and thus the “feeling in your mouth”.

This application note tackles the complex multiphase system fondue from a materials science
perspective. Scientific data on the behavior of such mixtures of fat, water and protein is of
special importance in food process engineering. Accurate weigh-in of the ingredients and re-
producible recipe formulations are the base of such investigations.
 Introduction
It is often difficult to characterize such complex, mul-
tiphase systems like a fondue recipe scientifically,
Rheology of Swiss Cheese Fondue
particularly when seeking to deliver a required rheol-
ogy (flow behavior) of a final product. This behavior is
critical, however, as it is an integral part of the fondue
eating experience and contributes to one-of-a-kind
mouthfeel and correct flavor release.
A team of scientists from the Institute of Food, Nutrition
and Health at ETH in Zurich, Switzerland, wanted to
know it exactly. While colloidal structures and inter-
actions in milk and solid cheese have been widely
investigated, the team noted that comparatively little
research has been conducted so far into these inter-
actions in melted cheese. To arrive at a formulation
for the perfect fondue, they assessed the influence of
fondue ingredients and their colloidal interaction on
fondue stability. Getting the formula right for such a
multiphase system prevents it to be affected by the ir-
reversible phase separation that can result in a watery
or a thick fondue.
In scientific experiments the influence of starch and
other stabilisators, ethanol and pH on the rheology of
a Swiss Cheese Fondue were investigated. Accurate
and reproducible model fondue mixtures were formu-
lated using a METTLER TOLEDO XSR4002S precision
balance. pH was measured by a METTLER TOLEDO
Seven Compact pH-Meter, equipped with a specialized
sensor for measuring the pH of cheese, InLab Solids
Pro-ISM. Shear rheology experiments were performed
with an Anton Paar MCR 302 equipped with a ball
measuring system.
Cheese structure
casein proteins
trapped
moisture
fat
globules
Figure 1. Fondue is an emulsion of cheese protein and fat. Its rheology is governed by the colloidal interactions of charged casein,
fat globules and starch granules.
Background
A traditional cheese fondue is prepared by adding
wine, starch, and seasoning to melted cheese, mak-
ing fondue actually a water-continuous system with
dispersed fat droplets, charged casein proteins and
starch granules.
The viscosity of a model fondue depends on the colloi-
dal interaction of three dispersed ingredients:
• Fat droplets, which contribute to fondue’s viscosity
by viscous friction,
• Casein, which upon melting and dispersion can be
considered a series of charged, suspended par-
ticles, and
• Fully gelatinized starch granules, which form a soft
particle suspension.
Due to casein’s surface behavior when melted, electro-
static interactions increase in importance. This active
nature means casein partially adsorbs at dispersed
oil droplets. The addition of ethanol at concentrations
above 10 vol % induces casein aggregation and in-
creases viscosity.
In a traditional fondue, wine is added at 30–40 wt %
which furthermore lowers the pH toward the isoelectric
point of casein and decreases fondue viscosity due to
a decrease in casein micelle size.
The colloidal interactions of all these ingredients deter-
mine rheology of the system and govern the ultimate
fondue eating experience. The yield stress observed in
the melted product is crucial to the cheese mixture’s
ability to properly coat a piece of bread dipped into it
Fondue structure
casein proteins
fat
globules
casein fragments
(emulsifying)
METTLER TOLEDO Application Note 2
 using a long-handled fork. The experiments performed
at the ETH Zurich aimed to address the multiphase
system from a material science perspective to charac-
terize these behaviors, inform fondue preparation, and
Rheology of Swiss Cheese Fondue
potentially impact other formulation activities.
Example of Example of
a stable colloid an unstable colloid
Aggregation
Sedimentation
Figure 2. Characterizing and, ideally, understanding the rheology
of food materials is essential for numerous aspects of food science
and technology, such as the standardized characterization of raw
materials and innovative products, or for optimized industrial
processing.
Getting Formulation Right
Formulation is the process of combining substances
in precise proportions to create a specific product.
Proportions are determined during repeated experi-
mentation to achieve the desired characteristics: e.g.
taste, color, shelf-life, performance, or effectiveness.
Formulation depends on accurate weighing. If one step
in the weighing process is wrong, the scientist must
recalculate other ingredients to make a correction.
However, if mistakes go unnoticed, products may have
different properties or be out-of-specification, result-
ing in waste, rework or health risks, particularly in the
pharma and food industries.
Developing the right formulation in the laboratory
involves a variety of challenges, such as:
• Recipe complexity / number of ingredients
• Ensuring SOPs are followed
• Using the right balance
• Data traceability and integrity (ALCOA+)
For small quantities of critical or expensive ingredients,
it may be necessary to use a second balance with a
higher readability and greater accuracy, particularly
where there is a large difference between the individual
ingredient amounts and the total target mass. Having
two balances occupies more lab space, creates extra
steps in the workflow, increases the process uncertain-
ties and necessitates a higher investment.
Figure 3: Pascal Bertsch is weighing-in the fondue cheese for the
experiments at the Institute of Food, Nutrition and Health at ETH in
Zurich, Switzerland.
To learn how METTLER TOLEDO can help you address
formulation development challenges with accurate
weighing and innovative recipe and sample tracking
methods, visit:
www.mt.com/lab-formulation-development
Experimental
For the experiment series, the team chose the moitié-
moitié fondue formulation with consists of two com-
mercially available cheeses, Gruyerè and Vacherin.
Moitié-moitié (half-half) model fondues were prepared
using these cheeses at a 1:1 ratio for 60 wt % of the
total weight blended with 40 wt % deionized water, re-
sulting in a total water content of 64 wt %. All thicken-
er and ethanol concentrations were expressed relative
to this water content. When preparing fondue, about
30–40 wt % of white wine is added. In the model fon-
due, a water-ethanol mixture was added, introducing
11.2% of ethanol relative to the water content.
Researchers investigated a traditional thickening
agent, potato starch, as well as two industrial thick-
ening agents, ι-carrageenan and xanthan. For the
model fondues, thickening agents were suspended in
deionized water and heated to 70 °C under continu-
ous stirring. Grated cheese was then added until a
homogeneous fondue was achieved. Measurements
were performed at 70 °C. The native pH of the model
fondues was 5.5 and was adjusted by addition of
1 M HCl solution.
METTLER TOLEDO Application Note 3
 Findings
In a first step, the effect of starch concentration was in- Finally, in a third step, two alternative thickening
vestigated. Without the addition of starch, irreversible agents, commonly used in the food industry, were
Rheology of Swiss Cheese Fondue

separation into oil, water and protein phases because
of coalescence and density differences was observed
(Figure 4). A 2 wt % addition of starch elicited a protein
phase covered by a stable emulsion without creaming.
However, in order to prevent irreversible phase separa-
tion of the fondue, a minimum proportion of 3 wt %
starch in relation to the total water content is required.
investigated: Xanthan and ι-carrageenan.
Experimentation showed that around 10 times lower
concentrations of ι-carrageenan and xanthan gum were
needed to achieve desired results when compared to
the 3 wt % minimum amount of potato starch required,
with ι-carrageenan creating the creamiest fondue.

Figure 4. Model fondues prepared from melted Gruyerè and Figure 6. Influence of the alternative thickening
Vacherin cheese (1:1) and 40 wt % water with different potato agents ι-carrageenan and xanthan gum on the
starch concentrations. Pictures were taken at room temperature viscosity of the model fondue.
4 h after preparation.

In a second step, the effect of white wine, which is al- Overall, the experiment series showed that minor
so part of a traditional fondue recipe, was investigated. tweaks made on the basis of rheology can help perfect
The addition of acidic white wine (pH 3–4) lowers the formulations so final products deliver expected proper-
pH of the fondue. In the experiment this was imitated ties. Cheese fondue is an excellent example of a com-
by adding ethanol to the model fondue and lowering plex multiphase food system whose eating experience
the pH by adding Hydrochloric acid (HCl). is governed by its complex colloidal interactions and
resulting rheology.
Fondue viscosity depends on pH due to charged ca-
sein. Casein micelles have smallest size and thus low-
est viscosity at their isoelectric point (pI = 4.7).
Ethanol addition and lowering pH toward the isoelec-
tric point of casein (pI = 4.7) decrease fondue viscosi-
ty due to a decrease in casein micelle size. Below
pH 4.7, fondue is unstable and phase separates.

pH pH pH

Figure 5. Influence of the pH on the viscosity of the model fondue

with 3 wt % starch.

METTLER TOLEDO Application Note 4

 Equipment
Model fondues were formulated using a METTLER
TOLEDO Excellence XSR4002S balance (Figure 7).
Rheology of Swiss Cheese Fondue
The balance features a 4.1 kg capacity and 0.01 g
readability, providing reliable performance. The in-
novative SmartPan™ weighing pan minimizes the ef-
fects of air currents on the weighing cell significantly
improving stability and measurement accuracy. The
SmartPan weighing pan and drip tray underneath dis-
mantle easily. Any spilled substances remain in the
tray for safe disposal and easy cleaning.
Figure 7. The Excellence XSR4002S provides maximum
productivity via ergonomic weighing processes that get
accurate results quickly.
For very small amounts of recipe ingredients, it may
be necessary to use a second balance with a higher
readability and greater accuracy, particularly where
there is a large difference between the individual ingre-
dient amounts and the total target mass. Consequently,
the thickening agents ι-carrageenan and xanthan in
these fondue experiments were weighed-in with the
help of an analytical balance (Figure 8).
Figure 8. The XSR105 Analytical balance offers a 120 g capacity
and 0.01 mg readability. A motorized draft shield and automatic
internal adjustment provide effortless accuracy for small samples.
Formulation development requires accurate execution
of the formulation recipe to ensure safe, high-quality
products. Selection of the right balance to meet the for-
mulation accuracy requirements is vital, as is ensuring
that weighing always takes place in the safe weighing
range of the balance. This safe weighing range or a
specific balance lies between its scientifically calibrat-
ed lower limit (minimum weight determined through
calibration) to which a safety margin is added (defined
by the selected safety factor) and the maximum limit
(capacity) of a balance or scale.
The pH of the model fondue was measured and ad-
justed with a SevenCompact pH meter with a specific
electrode for high temperature and protein solutions
(Figure 9).
Figure 9. pH electrode InLab Solids Pro-ISM for solid and semi-solid
food samples. This low-maintenance electrode with integrated
temperature probe features a clog-free, open junction that eliminates
the risk of protein fouling.
The rheology of stable model fondues was assessed by
shear and oscillatory rheology with an Anton Paar MCR
302 (Graz, Austria) equipped with a ball measuring
system (BMS) 2 with a diameter of 12 mm (Figure 10).
Under computer control, a small metal ball sinks into
the cheese mass and makes its circles. The viscosity
of the mass can be determined from the resistance
that the ball has to overcome.
Figure 10. An Anton Paar MCR 302 (Graz, Austria) equipped
with a ball measuring system (BMS) 2 to measure shear and
oscillatory rheology.
METTLER TOLEDO Application Note 5
 Conclusion
Typical Swiss Moitié-Moitié
The result of the series of measurements: Without
(Half-Half) Fondue
the addition of starch, the fondue separates irrevoca-
Rheology of Swiss Cheese Fondue

bly. A rubbery protein mass forms at the bottom, an

oil layer at the very top, and a watery phase in be- Ingredients:
tween—the nightmare of all fondue fans. • 3 cloves of garlic, sliced
• 4 dl (~13.5 fl. oz.) white wine
Separation of multiphase systems such as fondue • 400 g (~3.5 cups) Gruyère AOP, grated on
may be avoided by sufficient addition of water-binding a rösti grater
thickeners; paying careful attention to the effect pH has • 400 g (~3.5 cups) Fribourg Vacherin AOP,
on viscosity. Thorough characterization of rheology grated on a rösti grater
including electrostatic interactions not only allowed • 4 teaspoons cornstarch
the determination of ideal starch ratios but also facili- • 1 shot glass of cherry brandy, as desired
tated the potential replacement of traditional starch • Milled black pepper, nutmeg, cayenne pepper
with alternative thickeners such as ι-carrageenan • 500–800 g (just over 1 pound to 1.5 pounds)
and xanthan. bread, in cubes

The ability of such thickeners to impact the rheology Method:

of melted substances may be of particular interest to
the dairy industry. This experiment series may also
pose an interesting case study on how understanding
the flow behavior of complex multiphase systems may
have a significant impact on product quality and assist
in the development of new products and processes.
Last but not least, it helps to create a fondue recipe
which is not a thin milk soup nor a rubbery lump and
where there is less risk of losing the bread. It is a
widespread custom in Switzerland that a participant
who loses his piece of bread in the caquelon (fondue
pot) must spend a round of white wine, cherry brandy
or similar, or has to stand up and sing a song.
Rub the caquelon (fondue pot) with the garlic slic-
es. Place the caquelon on the stove. Add the wine,
cheese and cornstarch to the caquelon and let the
cheese melt over medium heat while stirring con-
stantly. Turn off the heat once the fondue is melted
and has a nice creamy consistency. Add cherry
brand to taste and season with freshly milled
pepper, nutmeg and cayenne. Bring the fondue
caquelon to the eating table and keep it warm on
a rechaud (warming stand) at medium heat. Dip
bread cubes using a fondue fork and enjoy!

References
[1] “Rheology of Swiss Cheese Fondue”
Pascal Bertsch, Laura Savorani, and Peter Fischer
ACS Omega 2019 4 (1), 1103-1109
DOI: 10.1021/acsomega.8b02424
https://pubs.acs.org/doi/10.1021/
acsomega.8b02424

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