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Expanded Glossary

A administration: Tasks and employees concerned


with the overall running of a company. (26)
absorbent: Having ability to take in moisture. (6)
administrative expenses: Management salaries,
accented neutral color scheme: Plan that combines office supplies, postage, and other miscellaneous
white, black, or gray with a bright color accent. (8) administrative costs. (19)
accessories: The articles added to complete or adornment: Attractive decoration. (1)
enhance apparel outfits. (1) adult education: Instructional courses held for
accessories editor: Commercial pattern company adults at night.
employee who researches and obtains the latest advance buying: Retail ordering of merchandise
available styles of accessories to create finished well ahead of the desired shipment date, usually at a
ensembles. (14) lower price. (15)
account executives: Sales representatives who work advance order: A stock order for line merchan-
with specific customers in determining their needs dise that has a longer lead time before the delivery
and providing products to suit those needs. date. (16)
accounts: Records of debits (subtractions of money) advance shipping notice (ASN): A notice sent from
and credits (additions of money) as a result of a supplier (such as an apparel manufacturer) noti-
transactions. (19) fying a customer (such as a retailer) of upcoming
accounts payable: The balances the company owes deliveries. (11)
to others. (19) advertising: Any paid form of nonpersonal sales
accounts receivable: Credit due to a company; message made by an identified sponsor through a
money owed by customers who have bought mass communication medium. (21)
goods. (19) advertising agency: A service firm that provides
acquisition: The purchase of another company, advertising expertise and design, produce, and place
with the buying company gaining the controlling ads in the media. (21)
interest. (25) advertising and promotion agents: Employees who
active listening: The process of giving the speaker plan, develop, and execute campaigns to tell custom-
some type of feedback that indicates a person is ers about the firm’s products, create demand, and
receiving and understanding the message, such as a encourage sales.
smile, nod, or verbal response. (17) advertising designer: See art director.
active sportswear: Garments for sports participation advertising director: Retail employee who super-
that are also worn during leisure time. (14) vises the advertising department and publications.
adaptation: A design that reflects the outstand- advertising freelancers: Artists, copywriters, pho-
ing features of another design but is not an exact tographers, or other creative professionals who are
copy. (9) hired independently to produce advertisements.
added visual texture: Finishes and designs applied advertising platform: A plan that defines the target
to the surface of fabrics; applied texture. (8) audience and summarizes the benefits and features
add-on: An additional related merchandise item that of the product to please that audience. (21)
creates a complete outfit. (18) advertorial: Advertising disguised as newspaper or
ad lib commentary: A fashion show commentary magazine articles or short stories. (21)
created spontaneously during the show from brief advocacy advertising: Institutional ads that try to
cue cards. (23) address public issues or influence public opinion. (21)

Note: The number in parentheses following each definition indicates the chapter in which the term can be found.

Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. Fashion Marketing & Merchandising Expanded Glossary 1
agile manufacturing: A seamless data capture system apparel mart: A large building or complex that
of production, and delivery that makes information- houses permanent showrooms. (11)
based decisions quickly. (25) applied design: Adding color, pattern, or other
alta moda: The high-fashion design industry of design features to the structural design after the
Italy. (9) basic fabric has been made. (7)
alteration hands: Apparel production employees apprenticeship: Training for an occupation by work-
who correct production defects. ing under the direction and guidance of a skilled
alterations: Changes to existing items. (20) worker. (26)
alterations expert: Employee who takes in, lets out, approval buying: An arrangement in which mer-
and reshapes garments that do not fit the purchasing chandise is shipped to the retailer for inspection
customer properly. before the final purchase decision is made. (16)
ambiance: Atmosphere. (13) aptitude: Talents; what a person is naturally good at
doing. (26)
American Apparel Education Foundation: A non-
profit group that raises funds that go toward the art director: An advertising designer who conceptu-
costs of apparel education. (26) alizes ads for television, magazines, online, newspa-
pers, direct-mail flyers, radio, and outdoor media.
American Apparel and Footwear Association
(AAFA): The national trade association represent- artificial intelligence (AI): When computer systems
ing U.S. apparel, footwear, and other sewn products simulate human thought and reasoning, displaying
companies that compete in the global market. (11) intelligent behavior. (17)
American Association of Textile Chemists and Col- artificial suede: A nonwoven polyurethane/polyester
orists (AATCC): Trade association concerned with fabric that looks and acts similar to real suede. (7)
the wet processing aspects of textile finishing. (7) as ready: A term denoting that a manufacturer
American Fiber Manufacturers Association, promises to ship orders when they are completed,
Inc. (AFMA): Trade organization for producers of rather than by an exact date. (16)
manufactured fibers in the United States. (6) assistant: A person who helps or aids another in
American Management Association (AMA): A trade doing a job.
association for business executives. (26) associate’s degree: A two-year degree from a com-
Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA): A United munity college. (26)
States law making it illegal to discriminate against assorter: An apparel manufacturing employee who
people who have disabilities. (26) prepares cut garment parts for production sewing.
analogous color scheme. A plan using adjacent col- assortment: An array of goods that refers to the
ors on the color wheel. (8) range of stock, or total selection, a retailer carries,
analytics: The systematic analysis of data to dis- whether it is full, limited, or specialty. (13)
cover, interpret, and communicate meaningful pat- assortment breadth: The number of different item
terns in data; uses statistics and algorithms which categories or classifications a retailer offers regard-
can electronically quantify business performance, less of how many of each category is in stock. (13)
identify trends, and communicate decisions. (17) assortment depth: The quantity of each item
anchor store: A major chain or department store that available in the assortment of goods offered to
provides the attraction needed to draw customers to customers. (13)
shopping centers and malls. (12) assortment plan: A buying plan that projects the
apparel jobber: Outside shop that never produces variety and quantity of specific stock-keeping units
any of its own goods. (10) to be carried by a store or department to meet cus-
apparel manufacturing: Process in the apparel seg- tomer demand. (15)
ment of the soft goods chain that involves preproduc- atmospherics: Features intended to create a par-
tion, production, and postproduction procedures for ticular emotional mood or attitude, such as through
garments, accessories, and other apparel items. (4, 10) sound and smell, in combination with the décor. (22)

2 Fashion Marketing & Merchandising Expanded Glossary Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
attitudes: A person’s feelings or reactions to people, banner ads: Internet advertising that automatically
things, or ideas that form from his or her values. (1) appears on shoppers’ home pages based on what
automated conference: Simultaneous communi- they have recently searched for electronically. (25)
cation between geographically dispersed people, bar code printer: A mechanical device used to mark
including audio conference, video conferencing, and merchandise tags or labels with bar codes. (5)
computer conferencing. (17) bar codes: Product symbols with dark bars and
automation: The use of machinery to perform physi- white spaces of varying widths, plus numbers that
cal tasks that humans previously performed. (10) can be encoded into specific data by computer
auxiliary group: An organization that supports systems. (5)
or helps businesses associated with the soft goods basic stock plan: A proposed purchase list composed
chain. (4) mostly of commodity goods, such as blue jeans,
avant-garde: The most daring and wild garment underwear, hosiery, and men’s dress shirts. (15)
designs. (1) basket weave: A variation of the plain weave with
two or more filling yarns passing over and under the
same number of warp yarns. (7)
B beacon: A small device that sends one-way signals
B2B EC: Business-to-business electronic commerce (using Bluetooth connections) to consumers’ mobile
using the Internet. (5) devices to send special offers and discounts, help
B2C commerce: Business-to-consumer commerce; consumers’ shopping excursions, and offer on-the-
electronic retailing to the general public. (25) spot coupons. (17)
bachelor’s degree: A four-year degree from a college beamspread: The diameter of a circle of light. (22)
or university. (26) beauty: A quality that gives pleasure to the
back order: An order that has not been fully or even senses. (1)
partially filled within the time specified due to a belts: Accessories that go around the waist and usu-
stockout. (16) ally buckle. (14)
backward integration: Combining a business at benchmarking: The continuous process of mea-
one stop of the distribution channel with another suring a company’s goods, services, and practices
toward the beginning of the chain closer to the raw against world-class firms that are renowned as
materials. (4) leaders. (11)
bagging: Putting merchandise into a sack for bet- benefits: Favorable outcomes received. (18)
ter handling, protection, and privacy of customer
bias grain: The diagonal grain of fabric. (7)
purchases. (20)
big data: The massive volume of electronic bits that
bait and switch: A deceptive sales practice in which
occurs in business every day that is so huge and
consumers are baited by an advertised low price on
complex that traditional software database applica-
a product that the retailer does not plan to sell, and
tions cannot deal with it. (25)
then switched with selling techniques that tempt
customers to buy a higher-priced product. (21) blanket order: A promise to buy from favored ven-
dors over a period of time. (16)
balance: Equality among the parts of a design or
outfit. (8) bleaching: A chemical process that removes any
natural color from fibers or fabrics. (7)
balanced assortment: A stock situation with suffi-
cient items to meet demand, with breadth and depth blend: A yarn made by spinning together two or
to satisfy the varied spectrum of customers, while more different fibers, usually in staple form. (6)
maintaining a reasonably low investment in inven- blogs: Websites on which individuals or groups of
tory; an ideal stock situation. (15) users record experiences, observations, opinions,
balanced (even) plaid: A design of crossing lines and information on a regular basis. (17)
and spaces that are the same in both the lengthwise body build: The total human structural form
and crosswise directions of the fabric. (7) established by relationships or proportions of body
balance of trade: The relationship between the areas. (8)
values of a country’s imports versus its exports, body language: Communication through body
described as being a deficit or a surplus. (24) movements. (17)

Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. Fashion Marketing & Merchandising Expanded Glossary 3
bonding: A method of permanently laminating business ethics: Practices that involve using good
together two layers of fabric with adhesive or a web moral values in business dealings, and concerns how
of fibers between the layers that melts with the a company and its employees do business. (26)
application of heat. Also, the process of sales associ- business letter: A formal communication
ates doing everything possible to strengthen relation- with another company, customers, or external
ships with customers. (7, 18) parties. (17)
bonus: An extra monetary payment in addition to an business memo: A short message from one person
employee’s regular pay. (26) or department within a company to another person,
BOPIS: An acronym that stands for “buy online, group, or department. (17)
pick-up in store”; also, “click and collect.” (20) business plan: A plan that defines the idea (pur-
border print: A design pattern that forms a distinct pose), operations, and financial forecast for a
border, usually along one or both selvage edges of a business. (26)
fabric. (7) business-to-consumer (B2C) commerce: Online sell-
boutique: A small, stand-alone shop or distinctive ing to consumers using personal computers, smart-
area within a larger store that sells unusual, few-of- phones, or other digital devices. (25)
a-kind apparel, accessories, or decorative items. (12) buyer’s clerical: A lower-level job that involves
boys sizes: Clothing sized 8 to 22 for boys in grade keeping accurate records, scheduling appointments,
school through adolescence. (14) communicating by phone or electronics, and doing
braiding (plaiting): Intertwining three or more follow-up work.
strands to form a regular diagonal pattern down the buying clout: Power in the marketplace that enables
length of the resulting cord. (7) companies who have it to get rebates, promotions,
branch coordinator: An employee of a large retail and additional discounts from their suppliers. (25)
organization who keeps tabs on all the branches to buying motive: The reason why people buy what
see that their stock, selling techniques, and general they buy. (13)
operations coordinate with the main store or head- buying plan: A plan that describes the types and
quarters’ policies. quantities of merchandise to purchase for retail sell-
branch store: A smaller retail unit owned and oper- ing for a specific time period and for a set amount of
ated by a parent store and located in suburbs or money. (15)
other metropolitan areas. (12)
brand-line representative: An employee hired only
to sell a specific brand’s products within a larger C
department or specialty store. (14) capacity fixture: A fixture that holds a large amount
brand name: See trade name. (6) of merchandise. (22)
bribe: Money or a gift accepted by a trusted capital intensive: Using mainly machines and
employee from an outsider trying to influence the advanced technology to make products, rather than
employee’s judgment or conduct. (26) relying heavily on labor. (7, 10)
brick-and-mortar retailers: Retailers who have career: A lifelong field of employment through
physical buildings where they display and sell goods which a person progresses. (26)
and services. (12) career fair: An event where companies meet and get
bridge jewelry: Jewelry of excellent quality résumés from job seekers, who attend to get informa-
that is made to look like fine jewelry, but is less tion about companies and possible jobs. (26)
expensive. (14) career path: The order of jobs worked in a person’s
bridge line: Secondary lines of well-known life. (26)
designers. (9) career planning: The process of outlining the steps
budget: An estimate of income and expenditures for involved in reaching a career goal. (26)
a specified period of time. (15, 21, 23) cash disbursements: Money that has been paid
business cycle: The fluctuation in the levels of eco- out. (19)
nomic activity over periods of several years. (3) cashier: A sales associate who makes transactions. (18)

4 Fashion Marketing & Merchandising Expanded Glossary Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
cash receipts: Money received from cash sales. (19) check verification: A service that tries to confirm
cash register (checkout terminal): A piece of equip- the validity of the check and/or the history of the
ment that performs mathematical operations, calcu- account holder to minimize losses from check fraud
lates tax, records payments, and generates a printed and counterfeiting. (20)
receipt. (18) chemical finish: Finish that becomes part of the fab-
cash/wrap area: The location where customers bring ric through chemical reactions with fibers; usually
merchandise to pay and to have the merchandise affects fabric performance. (7)
bagged or wrapped. (18) choreography: The planned arrangement of move-
casual looker: A classification of customer who is ment, such as with the specific dance steps or ges-
simply browsing or killing time. (18) tured moves. (23)
catalog: A booklet that shows and describes merchan- classic: A style or design that continues to be popu-
dise so customers can make purchasing decisions. (12) lar over an extended period of time, even though
fashion changes. (1)
category captain: A trusted supplier of specific
categories of goods to retailers, especially consumer classification buyer: A retail employee who plans,
goods products such as cosmetics. (16) chooses, purchases, prices, and promotes one classi-
fication of goods for all the stores in a chain or large
category killer: A large, discount specialty chain that
store organization.
carries such huge selections of every item related to
its specialty at such good prices that it practically classification buying: Activity of buying only one
destroys the competition in its specialty area. (12) category classification of merchandise, often done by
a chain store buyer. (15)
category management: A process of managing
product groups as business units and customiz- classification resources: Vendors that specialize in
ing them at retail locations to better satisfy local given classifications. (15)
customers. (25) classroom instructor: An educator in charge of
category manager: A management employee who school classes.
uses data and analytics for strategic decision mak- clearance merchandise: Low-priced promotional
ing, to choose goods that satisfy customer needs in goods, usually featured in off-price discount stores or
specific locations. as sale items. (15)
caution: A fee paid to attend French designer client book: A book in which a sales associate with
showings. (9) a high-service retailer records customers’ names,
cellulosic fibers: Fibers from plants. (6) addresses, phone numbers, sizes, and important
central business district: A downtown retailing dates. (18)
cluster. (13) clienteling: The effort to increase sales and improve
central buyer: See classification buyer. consumers’ shopping experiences by collecting and
using data about individuals. (17)
chain: A group of stores (usually 12 or more) that is
owned, managed, merchandised, and controlled by a closeout goods: Selected, discontinued, or end-of-
central office. (12) season goods, usually of various sizes and colors,
sold at a low price. (17)
channel of distribution: The route that products take
from the original source, through all the intermedi- closing the sale: Getting a commitment from the
aries (production, sales, etc.) to the end user. (4) customer to buy the merchandise. (18)

charge-backs: Penalties or claims against vendors clothing specialist: A state extension agent who is
for not following the many different rules set by each often a university staff member.
retailer. (19) cloud computing: The ability to access information
chatbots: Interactive software that electronically electronically and to allow others who are approved
mimics conversation between digital devices and and permitted to access the information. (17)
human users, using artificial intelligence (AI). (17) cocooning: The preference of consumers to stay
check guarantee: A service, as insurance, that reim- home with digital and other entertainment. (25)
burses the merchant for a bad check if all requirements code of ethics: A written statement that sets forth
were followed at the point of sale; the risk then falls the legal principles that should guide the decisions of
on the bank/firm that authorized the transaction. (20) the organization. (26)

Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. Fashion Marketing & Merchandising Expanded Glossary 5
collaboration: Working together on an endeavor, community shopping center: A medium-sized clus-
cooperating to assist each other. (5) ter of 15 to 50 stores that serves a community market
collateral materials: Extra advertising or corporate within a five to six mile radius. (13)
image materials, such as brochures, annual reports, comparable-store sales: An analysis of a retailer’s
packaging, hangtags, logos, and trademarks. sales in relation to close competitors that have simi-
collection: The garments in a designer’s or apparel lar corporate or store sizes, expense structures, mer-
manufacturer’s seasonal presentation. (9) chandise lines, departmental structures, and ways of
operating. (19)
color: An element of design; hue. (8)
comparative advantage: The ability of one nation to
colorfast: A term that implies that the color in a
produce certain goods or services better than other
fabric will not fade or change with normal expected
nations because of specific circumstances. (24)
use and care. (7)
comparative analysis: The periodic examination of
colorist: An employee who works out different color
financial data to try to measure the effectiveness of
combinations for fabric surface designs.
the company’s strategy and operation. (19)
color scheme: A way to effectively use colors
comparison shopper: An individual hired by a
together. (8)
retailer to check and report back to his or her
color wheel: A circle that shows the hues and the employers the depth of merchandise assortments,
relationships of the hues to each other. (8) prices, ambiance, and services of competing and
commentary: A spoken explanation of what is going noncompeting retailers. (15)
on, especially pointing out specific features of each compensation: Payment for work done, including an
modeled outfit. (23) hourly wage or salary, paid vacation time, and other
commentary cards: Cards prepared during fashion benefits. (18, 26)
show fittings, used for the narration of the show. (23) compensation package: Wage, salary, and other
commentator: A fashion show narrator who inter- compensation, such as paid vacation time. (26)
prets trends for the audience. (23) competition: Rivalry between two or more busi-
commercial pattern company: A firm that designs, nesses to gain as much of the total market sales, or
produces, packages, and sells patterns for home customer acceptance, as possible. (3)
sewing. complaint resolution: The settlement of customers’
commission: A payment based on a percent- dissatisfactions with the retailer or its merchandise
age of the dollar amount of sales made by a through mutual agreement on how to solve specific
salesperson. (18) problems. (20)
commissionaires: Independent buying agents in complementary color scheme: A plan using hues
overseas countries that help domestic buyers with across from each other on the color wheel. (8)
purchasing in/from their countries. (24) complementary product: An item the retailer
Committee for the Implementation of Textile Agree- purchases to supplement or accessorize other
ments (CITA): A government group that negotiates products. (15)
and administers individual agreements and quota completion date: The specified date when the goods
programs. (24) are needed by the retailer. (16)
commodity fiber: Fiber sold by generic group and compliance: Companies following industry require-
not identified with any specific manufacturer; sold ments and using unified product code standards that
to anyone on the open market, with no restriction communicate the same digital language. (5)
on end use and no implied or required standards of complimentary close: The sign-off of a business let-
performance claimed. (6) ter before the signature. (17)
commodity products: Staple goods that hardly ever composites: Textiles combined with other materials
change in design and are in constant demand. (4) of different physical or chemical properties, creat-
communication: The exchange of information for ing a superior and unique material for specific end
results. (17) uses. (4)
communication process: The transmission of computer-aided design (CAD): A computer sys-
meaningful messages between parties that everyone tem used for designing textiles, apparel, and other
clearly understands. (17) products. (7)

6 Fashion Marketing & Merchandising Expanded Glossary Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
computer-aided manufacturing (CAM): Electronic consumer promotion: Promotion directly to consum-
production control. (7) ers, usually done on a national scale by companies
computer database: Market information formulated that do not sell directly to consumers. (21)
from consumer actions and purchases recorded into consumers: People who buy and use finished prod-
comprehensive computer records that indicate the ucts, such as apparel. (3)
preferences of individuals in a target market. (5) contemporary fashion: Fashion that has trendy and
computer-integrated manufacturing (CIM): The avant-garde styling for fashion forward women,
complete automation (computer control) and coordi- mostly in juniors and misses sizes. (25)
nation of manufacturing toward “hands-off” produc- continuum: A sliding scale from one extreme to
tion. Also called digital manufacturing. (11) another, with infinite possible responses falling
computerized inventory management: Systems that along different points. (3)
tally sales through electronic scanners and immedi- contract: A written agreement between a buyer
ately deduct sold goods from inventory counts. (15) (retail company) and a seller (manufacturer) detail-
computer network: An interconnection of computing ing all conditions of the sale. (11)
equipment using data-communications circuitry. (17) contractor: An independently-owned sewing factory
confined: A certain label of goods from a manu- that produces goods according to the apparel firm’s
facturer is sold only to one retailer within certain designs and specifications. (10)
geographic trading area, or it may be sold only to a controllable expenses: Those expenses over which
particular chain of retail stores nationally. (11) the company has direct control. (19)
conformity: Obeying or agreeing with and act- convenience goods: Necessities that consumers
ing in accordance with some given standard or purchase regularly from the most accessible retail
authority. (1) outlets. (15)
consignment selling: Method of selling in which the conversion rate: The proportion of Internet shoppers
retailer accepts merchandise to sell in the store but who turn into buyers, instead of abandoning their
does not own it, but receives a percentage of the sale carts or clicking off; a measurement of how well an
price if and when a product sells. (6) Internet retailer is doing. (17)
consignment shops: A form of secondhand retailing, converters: Businesses that convert greige goods to
selling items brought in by consumers who retain finished fabrics, and then distribute those fabrics. (7)
ownership until the goods are sold. (12)
cooperative advertising: The sharing of advertis-
consolidated shipping: A procedure in which two or ing costs by more than one organization, such as a
more shippers put together a truckload of merchan- manufacturer and retailer. (6)
dise, which lowers transportation costs. (11)
cooperative fashion shows: Jointly sponsored fash-
consolidation: The uniting of two or more parts into ion shows, with expenses shared by two or more
one. (13) organizations. (23)
consulting: The selling of a person’s expert ideas copy: The reading material, or the words of an
and advice as a service business. ad. (21)
consumer confidence: An economic indicator that copyist: Design stylists who adapt higher priced
measures how consumers view the overall economy, fashion designs to the price ranges of their
as well as their personal finances. (3) customers.
consumer credit: A credit service that allows cus- copywriter: A fashion writer who composes the
tomers to receive merchandise immediately and pay word messages describing items promoted in adver-
for it later. (20) tisements, catalogs, websites, and other publicity
consumer education: A combination of teaching and materials.
business promotion. corporation: A chartered enterprise organized as a
consumer fashion shows: Fashion shows presented separate legal entity from its owners and possesses
by retailers to consumers. (23) most of the legal rights of people. (3)
consumer panel: A market research method that has corrective advertising: Use of a promotional message
participants keep diaries. (5) to correct previous false or unethical claims. (21)

Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. Fashion Marketing & Merchandising Expanded Glossary 7
cosmetic: A product to be applied to the face, skin, crimpled: A process that curls or waves manufac-
or hair to improve appearance. (14) tured fibers to give them elasticity and resiliency,
cost effective: The benefits outweigh the expense. (7) similar to natural fibers. (6)
costing: The process of figuring the expenses of pro- cross-docking: A practice of unloading goods from
ducing an item. (10) an incoming shipment directly onto outbound
trucks, with no storage in between. (11)
costing clerk: An employee who assists a costing
engineer by noting and analyzing the figures on cross-dyeing: A method of dyeing blend or combi-
specification sheets. nation fabrics to two or more shades by using dyes
with different affinities for the various fibers. (7)
costing engineer: Manufacturing employees who
determine the overall price of producing each item. cross-shopping: The consumer trend of combining
purchases from both ends of the price scale. (25)
cost of goods sold (COGS): A section of the operating
statement that indicates the dollar amount spent on crosswise grain: The direction of filling yarns across
goods that have been sold to customers during the the fabric from selvage edge to selvage edge. (7)
period. (19) culmination stage: The third stage of the fashion
costume curator: A person who locates, identifies, cycle during which fashions are at their height
and determines the age of textiles, apparel, and of popularity and in great demand by almost
accessories from the past. everyone. (2)
costume jewelry: Inexpensive jewelry that is made culture: A society’s customary set of social beliefs
to look like better jewelry, but is made from low-cost and values. (1)
materials; also called fashion jewelry. (14) curved lines: Elongated marks that are rounded or
cottage industry: Manufacturing that uses the labor somewhat circular. (8)
of family units working in their homes with their customer-centricity: An enterprise-wise focus on
own equipment. customers by a business. (25)
cotton: A natural cellulosic fiber obtained from the customer relationship management (CRM): The
boll of the cotton plant. (6) merging of database information technology with
Cotton Incorporated: A marketing and research customer service to analyze customers, respond
trade organization for cotton growers. (6) individually to their needs, and build and maintain
lasting relationships. (20)
Council of Fashion Designers of America (CDFA):
A not-for-profit trade association of top U.S. customer service: The total of all enhancements
designers. (9) retailers offer to customers. (20)
counterfeit goods: Merchandise items, or knockoffs, customer service manager: A retail employee who
with false trademark labels or designer logos, to serves as an intermediary between the store and its
imply they are genuine designer products. (11) customers.
couture: The small segment of the fashion market custom-made: Garments that are made-to-order for
which provides original, high-priced fashions for a each client. (9)
tiny market class. (9) cutters: Apparel manufacturing companies; employ-
couturier: A high fashion designer. (9) ees who cut out garment parts. (10)
craze: Passing love for a new fashion that is accom- cybercrime: Criminal activity carried out via
panied by a display of emotion or excitement; a network-connected devices. (25)
mania. (1)
created audience: An audience established as the
result of publicity and advertising after planning the
D
show. (23) data: Numbers, statistics, facts, and figures. (17)
creative director: The replacement designer for a data integration: The combining of several steps into
fashion house after the name designer has retired or one continuous computerized operation. (10)
died; an advertising agency executive who oversees data mining: The use of software to dig down to
all the agency’s advertising output. (9) discover shoppers’ patterns within an accumulated
credit processing: Electronic credit approval and database, which collects, sorts, and stores informa-
ongoing authorization of credit transactions. (20) tion as a resource for actionable responses. (25)

8 Fashion Marketing & Merchandising Expanded Glossary Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
data processing: Computerized transformation of designer pattern: Patterns of designs that a designer
data into more usable forms by sorting, summariz- sells to a commercial pattern company, and allows
ing, or storing; includes invoices, bills paid, inven- the company to reproduce and feature in pattern cat-
tory records, payroll, etc. (11) alogs at fabric stores where the patterns are sold. (9)
debit processing: A process that electronically designing: The process of creating new versions of
takes the money for a purchase out of the consum- garments, accessories, or other items. (4)
er’s bank account and puts it into the merchant’s design stylist: A person who redesigns existing
bank account; also called electronic funds transfer garments rather than creating new fashion designs.
(EFT). (20) Also, a person who advises about styles in apparel or
debt level: The amount of money that is other categories of goods. (9)
borrowed. (19) diagonal lines: Elongated marks that slant rather
decided customers: Customers who know exactly than being vertical or horizontal. (8)
what they want and why, preferring to make their diagram artist: A commercial pattern company
purchase quickly. (18) employee who does technical drawings to accom-
decoding: The process by which the receiver assigns pany the written directions of the guide sheet.
meaning to the symbols encoded by the sender. (17) differentiate: Set an entity apart from others. (13)
décor: The style and appearance of interior diffusers: Light-softening shields over lights to help
furnishings. (22) reduce glare in a display. (22)
decorative line: A line created by adding details to diffusion lines: Bridge (secondary lines of well-
the surface of clothing (edgings, topstitching, lace, known designers). (9)
tabs, flaps, buttons, etc.). (8)
digital printing: Computer-driven textile printing that
decorative props: Display objects used to establish a rolls fabric through an extra-wide ink-jet printer. (7)
mood or an attractive setting for merchandise being
digital manufacturing: See computer-integrated
featured. (22)
manufacturing. (11)
deductions: Certain amounts of money subtracted
direct competition: Competition between two or
from paychecks, such as for taxes and social
more retailers using the same type of business
security. (26
format. (13)
demand: The amounts of a good or service that
directional print. Fabric design with an up-and-
consumers are willing and able to buy at that time at
down direction. (7)
various prices. (3)
direct-mail marketing: Mail-order retailing. (12)
demand flow manufacturing (DFM): Computerized
custom production that responds to individual orders directories: Lists of names and business categories
of desired goods. (11) with contact information. (21)

demographics: The vital statistics of human popula- director of distribution planning: A corporate
tions, broken down by such factors as age, gender, executive who oversees all distribution centers and
race, education, religion, income, occupation, and activities for a company.
geographic location. (5) direct selling: The exchange of merchandise to indi-
denier: Fiber thickness or diameter. (6) vidual consumers in return for money or credit. (15)

departmental buyer: A traditional department store discount: A reduction of the original retail price
employee who plans and purchases goods for only granted to store employees or special customers. (19)
one department and is responsible for the sales and discount store: A retail establishment that sells
profits of the department. merchandise at lower than recognized market-level
departmental buying: Activity of a department store prices. (12)
buyer who only purchases merchandise for his or her display: Individual and notable physical presentation
own department. (15) of merchandise. (22)
department store: A large-scale general merchan- display designer: An employee who does interior
diser that offers many varieties of goods grouped merchandise displays; also called display stylist.
into separate departments. (12) display manager: The head of the retail display staff
design: A particular, or unique, version of a style. (1) and all display work; also called visual manager.

Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. Fashion Marketing & Merchandising Expanded Glossary 9
distance learning: Educational courses, usually dresser: A person who helps models change and care
online. (26) for the clothes. (23)
distribution: The best ways to get the products into dressmaker/tailor: An expert sewer who makes cus-
the hands of potential customers. (3) tom garments or does apparel alterations and repairs.
distribution center (DC): A warehouse that tempo- drop shipping: Moving goods directly from suppli-
rarily holds bulk goods that will be divided and sent ers to customers, without going through the retailer
out to individual sites where needed; also called from which the goods were ordered. (25)
fulfillment center. (11) dual credit: A school program in which students can
distribution center manager: A person in charge of earn both high school and college credit at the same
a particular distribution center. time. (26)
distribution planner: A retail stockkeeping dual distributor: A company that offers its products
employee who keeps track of all units of merchan- through both regular retail accounts and its own
dise through computerized records. company-owned retail outlets and websites. (11)
district manager: A chain store employee who is dual sizing: Men’s apparel sizing method that com-
responsible for growth and volume of up to a dozen bines two size dimensions with different body types
stores. to fit various heights and builds (for example, neck
division: A segment of a company or business plus sleeve length combinations for shirts, and waist
divided according to customer or product types. plus inseam length for hemmed pants). (14)
divisional merchandise manager: A retail executive dumping: The selling of goods at lower prices in
who supervises a group of buyers and/or coordinates offshore markets than in the home market. (24)
the merchandise of several related departments, divi- dyeing: A method of giving color to textiles using
sions, or stores to maximize profits. coloring agents called dyes. (7)
division of labor: Breaking up the total manufactur- dynamic pricing: Blasting out price changes to
ing process into small, individualized jobs that are consumers that apply to recent and new purchases of
each repeatedly done by one worker. (10) particular items. (19)
doctorate degree: A high educational degree
after many years of university study and possibly
research. (26) E
dollar merchandise plan: An estimated dollar ecofriendly: The use of responsible processes and
amount, or budget, for planned stock, sales, and minimum waste of resources. (5)
profit for a six-month period. (15) economic climate: A country’s purchasing power,
domestic market centers: Buying areas in a person’s standard of living, and relative costs of doing
own country. (16) business. (24)
domestic production: Producing goods in the manu- economies of scale: Cost reductions per item result-
facturer’s own country. (10) ing from large-scale mass production. (3)
double knit: Fabric made on a weft knitting machine edit the line: When buyers prioritize the goods, with
with two sets of needles and yarns knitting two the best quality, fashion level, and price values for
fabrics as one. (7) their buying plan listed first.
double-ticket sizing: The marking items with two editor: The supervisor of fashion writers and
combined but similar-size numbers in different cat- copywriters.
egories, such as junior and misses sizes. (14)
editorial credit: A mention in a publication of the
down: A fluffy feature undercoating of geese and manufacturer’s trade name or specific retail sources
ducks used as a lightweight insulator in apparel. (6) for merchandise that the publication features. (21)
downsize: The use of smaller size numbers for equal educational representative: Commercial pattern or
body measurements in expensive fashions. (14) manufacturing company employee who prepares
downsizing: The reduction of the size of a business teaching materials and promotes his or her firm’s
to lower costs and become more efficient. (25) products by teaching about them to consumers.
dress code: Written or unwritten rules of appropriate e-gifting: Shoppers send an e-mail notification of a
attire. (1) gift and the recipient chooses the details. (20)

10 Fashion Marketing & Merchandising Expanded Glossary Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
elastic demand: The demand for specific items employment discrimination: The treatment of
changes with price. (19) people differently related to prejudice rather than
electronic article surveillance (EAS): A shoplifting- work performance; an illegal practice. (26)
prevention system that uses tags containing a small empower: To give official authority, responsibility,
circuit that emits a radio signal that, if not deacti- and autonomy to employees to make their own work-
vated, is sensed by devices at exits. (20) related decisions. (25)
electronic data interchange (EDI): The exchange enclosed windows: Display windows with a full
of information and transactions through computer background and sides that completely separate the
linkages between companies, using an understood store’s interior from the display window. (22)
digital format. (5) encoding: Message sender’s process of putting
electronic feedback tests: A market research method thought into symbolic form to be meaningful for the
that uses computers to receive both quantitative and receiver. (17)
qualitative information. (5) endless aisle: The ability of consumers to digitally
electronic funds transfer (EFT): See debit shop all items of a brand’s merchandise lines. (25)
processing. (20) endorsement: Testimonials of famous people that
electronic graphics interchange: In software, com- are used in advertising to support a product; see
puter design options that can be combined according testimonials. (21)
to the final goal of the designer. (9) enterprise resource planning (ERP): Use of com-
electronic point-of-sale (EPOS): Computerized stock puter database to manage companies’ entire global
control equipment. (15) production supply chains; includes a manufacturing
electronic product code: Standardized code for radio execution system (MES) to manage and monitor fac-
frequency identification labels. (5) tory work-in-progress. (11)
entrepreneur: A risk taker who organizes, launches,
electronic retailing: The transacting of business-to-
and directs the operations of a new business. (26)
consumer sales (B2C) of products via the Internet;
also called e-tailing, Internet retailing, or online entry-level job: The beginning job in a career, which
retailing. (12) usually requires little or no specific training or
experience. (26)
electronic signature capture: When paying by
credit or debit card, a shopper signs on an electronic ergonomics: Human engineering that matches
pad. (20) human performance to the tasks performed, the
equipment used, and the environment. (10)
elements of design: Color, shape, line, and
texture. (8) essential services: Services that are basic and neces-
sary to the exchange process, offered by self-service
elevated windows: Display windows with the floor
discount stores. (20)
above sidewalk level. (22)
ethics: The principles of conduct governing an
e-mail marketing: Sending business information to
individual or a group based on high integrity, values,
consumers electronically. (17)
and moral principles. Distinguishing right from
emergency reserve: Extra money included in a wrong. (5, 21)
budget to cover unexpected costs of overruns of
everyday low pricing (EDLP): A strategy for retail
expenses. (23)
positioning that promotes the idea that consumers
emotional behavior: A response based on feelings. (13) can shop in the store at any time, knowing that they
emphasis: A principle of design; a concentration of will get a fair price that gives good value for the
interest in a particular part or area of a design. (8) money. (13)
employee retention: The ability of companies to European Union (EU): A trading bloc of European
keep their current workers. (18) countries united for economic stability and with com-
employee scheduling: Deciding how many employ- mon policies of free trade among the members. (24)
ees are needed on the job at various times to meet EVM credit cards: Credit cards equipped with com-
work demand. (18) puter chips to reduce data breaches and fraud. (20)
employee turnover: Workers leaving a company and exchange rate: The price at which one country’s money
the hiring of new, replacement workers. (18) can be converted into another country’s money. (15)

Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. Fashion Marketing & Merchandising Expanded Glossary 11
exclusive market coverage: Using one retail location fabric library: A collection of sample fabrics for the
to serve either an entire market area or some major upcoming fashion season. (6)
segment of that market. (13) fabrics: Long pieces of cloth. (4)
executive trainee: College graduates who are hired fabric structural designer: A textile company
to train with a company for future management posi- employee who interprets fashion into new woven or
tions; also called management trainee. knitted patterns. (26)
executive training programs: General orientation fabric stylist: A textile company employee who
offered by most large companies for new employees serves as a bridge between the creative and business
with college degrees; also called management-train- aspects of the company, coordinating fabric design,
ing programs. (26) production, and sales.
expansion: An economic growth in national income, fabric surface designer: A textile company employee
employment, and production. (3) who translates the company’s color choices and
expected services: Services offered by value-ori- applied print looks onto fabrics.
ented retailers that include the acceptance of several face-forward presentation: Hanging clothing with
credit cards, layaway privileges, shorter checkout the front fully facing the viewer; also called face-out
lines, and more personalized answers to shopping presentation. (22)
questions. (20)
factors of production: The resources, labor, capital, and
expenditures: Money spent. (23) business leadership used to manufacture goods. (10)
expense management: The process of planning and factory outlet: A manufacturer-owned-and-operated
controlling operating expenses. (19) discount store that sells only the merchandise the
export: Sending goods out of the country. (10) company makes, at reduced prices. (12)
export merchant: An offshore wholesaler who fad: A temporary, passing fashion. (1)
specialize in efficiently exporting goods from their false advertising: A type of advertising in which ads
countries. (24) are misleading and untrue, such as false represen-
export sales representatives: Natives of other coun- tation of the contents of a package or benefits of a
tries who represent selected manufacturers but do product. (21)
not maintain a wholesale inventory. (24) fashion: The display of the currently popular style
extender: An accessory that can be mixed and of objects or activities, such as the prevailing type of
matched within a wardrobe to create more outfits. (14) clothing that a large segment of the public buys and
extension agent: An educator hired and paid by wears at a given time. (1)
state land-grant universities to work as family and fashion cycle: The ongoing rise, peak, and fall in
consumer scientists in various counties or an entire popularity of specific styles. (2)
state.
fashion design: The art of combining beauty
external theft: Stealing by people who are and function into new clothing and accessory
not employed or otherwise associated with a creations. (9)
firm, including payment fraud, robbery, and
fashion director: An employee that ensures all
shoplifting. (20)
buyers, fashion departments, and retailers keep
up to date on fashion trends, and assists with
F promotions. (26)

fabricated products: Sewn garments, accessories, fashion followers: Individuals who wear fashion
and other manufactured items. (94) looks only when they become firmly accepted.

fabrications: Fabrics, leathers, furs, or other materi- fashion laggers: Individuals who are the last to
als used in making fashion products. (10) adopt styles. (2)

fabric designer: See fabric structural designers and fashion leaders: Fashion forward men, women, and
fabric surface designers. young people with enough confidence and credibility
who are the first to wear high fashion. (2)
fabric librarian: An employee of a manufactured
fiber company, natural fiber trade association, or fashion look: A total accessorized outfit. (1)
home sewing pattern company who is in charge of fashion movement: The ongoing change in what
the fabric library. people consider to be fashionable. (2)

12 Fashion Marketing & Merchandising Expanded Glossary Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
fashion piracy: The stealing of design ideas without fine jewelry: Expensive jewelry, usually of very high
the permission of the originator. (9) quality, of genuine metals and gemstones, usually
fashion press: The print, broadcast, and digital retailed by jewelry stores. (14)
media that present and interpret fashion and indus- finished goods: Completed, postproduction manufac-
try news. (21) tured items. (11)
fashion products: Goods that are difficult to predict finisher: An apparel production employee who does
the demand for, and sales of, due to their ever- hand work to finish better-quality, higher-priced
changing nature. (4) garments.
fashion season: A distinct retail selling period. (10) finishes: Coatings applied to fabrics to improve the
fashion show: A theatrical presentation of apparel appearance, fee, and performance for the product’s
and accessories on live models. (23) end use. (7)
fashion show coordinator: The person in charge of fiscal period: A financial accounting period, usually
the entire fashion show presentation. (23) six months or one year. (11)
fashion trend: The direction in which fashion is fiscal year: An accounting period of one year, which
moving; something new that is gaining popularity might or might not coincide with the calendar
and wide acceptance in the marketplace. (2) year. (11, 19)
fashion week: See market week. (9, 11) fit model: A design room or showroom model who
tries on and models samples for the company’s man-
fast fashion: A concept in which small lots of new
agement and retail buyers.
designs are brought to market very quickly, referred
to as “from catwalk to check out.” (25) fitting: When a model tries on the merchandise for
a fashion show to see how each garment looks and
feature fixture: A fixture that holds small amounts
fits. (23)
of merchandise that face outward toward shoppers;
often used for fashion forward items. (22) fitting sheet: A written form for each lineup number
in a fashion show. (23)
feedback: A response communicated to the sender or
source. (17) fixed cost: The cost that remains the same regard-
less of sales volume. (19)
felt: A nonwoven fabric made by applying heat,
moisture, and pressure to matt fibers together; often fixture: A shelf, table, rod, counter, stand, easel,
of wool. (7) form, or platform that holds merchandise displays
and stock for sale. (22)
fiber dyeing: The dyeing of fibers before they are
spun into yarns. (7) flagship store: The parent, or main store, that was
probably originally located in a central business dis-
fiberfill: Staple fibers used without spinning to fill pil-
trict; usually houses the executive, merchandising,
lows, mattresses, sleeping bags, and comforters. (6)
and promotional offices for the entire operation. (12)
fibers: Very thin, hair-like strands that can be quite
flax: A plant from which the natural fiber linen is
short or very long. (4)
obtained. (6)
figure: The shape of a female’s body. (8)
flash mob: A well-trained crime gang of juveniles or
filaments: Long, continuous fibers measured in robbery crew that moves around the area or coun-
yards or meters. (6) try stealing large amounts of retail merchandise
filling knits: See weft knits. (7) quickly. (20)
filling yarns: Crosswise yarns running from selvage flash sale: A discount offer to online shoppers on
to selvage at right angles to warp yarns in a woven small quantities of high-end goods for limited peri-
fabric; weft yarns. (7) ods and with fast deliveries. (13, 17)
film: A think sheet, usually of vinyl or urethane, flexible manufacturing: See modular
sometimes used as a coating over fabrics. (7) manufacturing. (10)
financial control: The retail function that deals with flocking: A method of cloth ornamentation using a
supervising the budget and overseeing the spending glue substance on material in a pattern, with finely
activities of the store or retail firm. (12) chopped fibers sprinkled on top to produce a design
findings: Materials for the functional parts of gar- with texture. (7)
ments, such as zippers, hooks, snaps, thread, and floodlighting: Light directed over an entire wide
labels. (10) display area with recessed ceiling lights. (22)

Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. Fashion Marketing & Merchandising Expanded Glossary 13
floor fixtures: Merchandise presentation fixtures free trade: A government’s policy of allowing goods
that stand on the floor. (22) to flow freely in and out of its economy, without
floor plan: An overall top-view store layout diagram interference. (24)
of the department or entire store layout, showing the fringe benefit: A form of compensation in addition to
arrangement of physical space, including the place- a direct wage or salary. (26)
ment of specific merchandise groups or departments, full commentary: A fashion show commentary with
aisles, fixtures, and customer services. (22) a script that has every word written that will be
floor-ready merchandise (FRM): Merchandise said. (23)
shipped to the store in a condition to be put directly full dress rehearsal: A practice of a finished show
onto the selling floor without any additional prepara- without an audience present. (23)
tion by retail employees. (15) full-fashioned: Knits produced on a flat knitting
focus group: A dozen or so people in a room with a machine that have been shaped by adding or reduc-
facilitator who leads a discussion about a particular ing stitches. (7)
subject or product line while company representa- full package production: Design-through-distribu-
tives watch to gain feedback. (5) tion contracting, which focuses on supplying design
footwear: Accessories that include dress shoes, and sample work, fabrics/findings/trims, all parts of
casual shoes, boots, slippers, and athletic shoes. (14) construction, as well as packing and transportation
forecasting service: An outside source of highly arrangements. (24)
skilled consultants that specialize in predicting full-service retailing: Stores with salespeople who
future fashion and business trends. (7) assist customers one-to-one in every phase of the
formal balance: Equilibrium created in a design shopping process. (20)
with symmetrical parts, such as design details being functional props: Objects used to physically support
the same on each side of a center line. (8) or hold merchandise in a display. (22)
formal business report: A business writing with a fur: Soft, hairy coat of an animal. (6)
cover, title page, table of contents, executive sum- furrier: A manufacturer of fur items. (6)
mary, and complete subject matter that analyzes
fusible web: A sheet of binder fibers that can act as
complex issues. (17)
an adhesive because its softening point is relatively
formal runway show: A typical presentation of fash- low. (7)
ion models parading on a runway in a certain order
of appearance. (23)
four-groups approach: The flow of goods which G
separates the overall fashion industry into the gainsharing: All members of a group share in extra
primary, secondary, retail, and auxiliary groups of incentive rewards when the group exceeds work
businesses. (4) expectations. (10)
forward integration: Combining a business at one gallery programs: The traditional sales method for
step of the distribution channel with another far- large furniture items displayed in showrooms. (4)
ther toward the end of the chain (closer to the end garment: An article of wearing apparel, such as a
user). (4) dress, suit, coat, evening gown, or sweater. (1)
fragrance: A product that adds a pleasant scent. (14) garment district: The location of most of the apparel
franchisee: The person (or group) that owns a fran- companies in fashion cities. (10)
chise business. (9) garment dyeing: The dyeing of constructed gar-
franchising: A contract arrangement in which the ments by apparel manufacturers to fill retail orders
designer grants a retailer the right to use his or her for requested colors. (7)
famous name and trademarked goods within a par- garment fitter: An employee who pins altering folds
ticular trading area. (9) or marks changes with chalk wherever alterations to
franchisor: The person or firm with the famous or garments are required.
established name used by franchisees. (9) garment parts: Components of garments, such as the
free-market system: The economic system in which sleeves, cuffs, collar, and waistband. (1)
businesses compete and consumers freely choose gauge: The number of stitches or loops per inch in a
how to spend their money. (3) knitted fabric. (7)

14 Fashion Marketing & Merchandising Expanded Glossary Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
general expenses: Costs of rent, utilities, and other group department manager: A retail employee who
operating overhead. (19) runs a group of departments.
general merchandise manager: A high retail execu- growth feature: A design feature that allows gar-
tive who is responsible for the total retail merchan- ments to expand as children grow. (14)
dising operation. guaranteed audience: An audience established
general merchandiser: A retailer who markets before the show is organized and will attend regard-
all types of goods in multiple price ranges and less of the show. (23)
tries to satisfy the many needs of a broad range of
customers. (12)
generic groups: Identification of families of manu- H
factured fibers, categorized according to similar half-sizes: Apparel sizes for heavier, short-waisted
chemical composition. (6) women. (14)
geofencing: The ability to identify a mobile device hand: The way fabrics feel to the touch. (7)
within a geographic boundary using global position- handbag: A purse. (14)
ing system (GPS) with radio frequency identification
hangtags: Detachable heavy paper signs that are
(RFID) technology. (17)
affixed to the outside of garments as a form of pro-
geotextiles: Permeable fabrics that can separate, filter, motion to help sell products. (18)
reinforce, protect, or drain when used with soil. (4)
hardlines: Non-textile items, also known as hard
girls sizes: Apparel sizes from 7 to 16, for girls of goods. (14)
those corresponding ages. (14)
harmony: Pleasing visual unity of a design created
globalization: The growth of international com- by a tasteful relationship among all parts within the
merce and communications that makes national whole. (8)
boundaries less important, especially in economic
haul video: A video produced by shoppers who then
matters. (24)
share their purchase choices and opinions on social
gloves: Handwear for warmth, grip, or fashion. (14) media, typically using a video-based platform. (17)
goods: Tangible, or real, items that manufacturers haute couture (oht koo-TUR): The name for the high
physically make. (3) fashion designer industry of France. (9)
good taste: Sensitivity not only to what is artistically headline: the condensed summary of an advertising
pleasing, but also to what is appropriate for a certain message or other written communication. (21)
situation and a specific individual. (1)
head of stock: A retail employee in charge of the
gradation: A gradual increase or decrease of similar merchandise for a given department or area.
design elements used to create rhythm in a design;
headwear: Hats and caps, sometimes called
also called progression. (8)
millinery. (14)
grading: The process of making garment pattern
heat transfer printing: A method of printing fabric
pieces larger and smaller for the complete range of
by transferring the design from preprinted paper by
sizes that will be produced. (10)
contact heat. (7)
grain: The direction the yarns run in the fabric. (7)
high fashion: Items that are the very latest or newest
graphic designer: An advertising employee who fashions that are usually innovative, expensive, and
comes up with the visual representation for adver- of fine quality. (1)
tisements and collateral materials.
home furnishings textiles: Fabrics used for furniture
greige goods: Yard goods in an unfinished state. (4) coverings, window treatments, and miscellaneous
grid layout: A layout plan that has one or more pri- decorative home accessories. (4)
mary (main) aisles running through the store, with home sewing industry: Businesses that deal with
secondary (smaller) aisles intersecting them at right the production and selling of nonindustrial sew-
angles. (22) ing machines, notions, retail fabrics, patterns, and
gross margin: The money available to cover expenses publications. (4)
and generate a profit; also called gross profit. (19) horizontal integration: The uniting of several chains
gross sales: The total dollar amount received from or companies at the same location on the distribu-
sales; gross revenues. (19) tion pipeline under common ownership. (13)

Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. Fashion Marketing & Merchandising Expanded Glossary 15
horizontal lines: Elongated marks that go from side incentive: A prize or reward that stimulates a sales
to side like the horizon. (8) associate to achieve higher sales. (18)
hosiery: Stockings, including panty hose, tights, incentive bonus: A bonus that rewards high sales or
knee highs, leg warmers, and all other socks. (14) productivity during a certain period of time. (26)
hourly wage: A certain predetermined pay rate per income statement: See operating statement. (19)
hour spent doing a job, generally for lower-level indirect competition: Competition between two or
workers. (26) more retailers using different types of business for-
house boutique: A small retail shop owned by a mats to sell the same type of merchandise. (13)
designer. (9) indirect selling: Nonpersonal promotion aimed at a
hue: The name of a color. (8) large general audience. (15)
humanoid robot: A robot built to resemble humans individuality: The quality that distinguishes one
with lifelike characteristics, especially effective for person from another, or makes each person feel
interacting with retail customers. (25) unique; self-expression. (1)
hypermarket: A warehouse-type supercenter that individual model lineup sheets: Written descrip-
sells almost every type of merchandise and targets tions, sketches, and swatches to help models clarify
time-stressed consumers who want to do all their their order of appearance, outfits, and other details
shopping in one trip. (12) when they are in a fashion show. (23)
industrial engineer: Cost and efficiency experts who
save companies time and money.
I
industrial espionage: An unethical situation involv-
ideal chart: A chart that names all merchandise cat-
ing spying to get another company’s trade secrets,
egories to be presented and the number of garments
employees, etc. (26)
to be selected per category before merchandise is
actually selected. (23) inelastic demand: Demand for specific items that is
not affected by price. (19)
illustration: The visual part of an advertisement,
such as photographs or artwork. Also, the drawing infant’s apparel: Clothing for babies and toddlers
of a fashion design. (21) younger than 3 years old. (14)
image: How something or someone is perceived by infographic: The combination of visual design and
others, or nonverbal communication of a store in data, minimizing words to explain concepts. (21)
customers’ minds. (13) infomercial: A television advertising technique that
image consultant: Personal stylists that advise con- is heavy on information and demonstration. (21)
sumers on their images, wardrobe coordination, and informal balance: Equilibrium in a design created
accessorizing. with an asymmetrical arrangement in which design
importers: Merchants that bring in products from details are divided unequally from the center. (8)
overseas. (15) informal business report: A shorter, less rigid busi-
import merchants: Individuals or companies that ness paper, such as one prepared about sales, work
buy and import particular classifications or catego- progress, market research, or business calls. (17)
ries of goods. (24) informal fashion show: A more casual presentation
import penetration: The percentage of imports in of garments and accessories without a runway or
a country’s total market consumption, measuring commentary. (23)
offshore goods against domestic goods. (24) informal organization: The network of interactions
imports: Goods that come into the country from that is not part of a company’s formal structure, but
sources outside the United States. (10) influences how the organization accomplishes its
impulse purchase: An item bought on the spur of goals. (17)
the moment without preplanning. (14) information: Processed, meaningful, useful data that
inbound marketing: The process of having con- is relevant, accurate, timely, and complete. (17)
sumers seek and find a company and its products information management: The activities that gener-
electronically, often through descriptive words on ate an orderly and timely flow of relevant informa-
Internet search engines. (21) tion to support business activities. (17)

16 Fashion Marketing & Merchandising Expanded Glossary Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
information systems: Computer components that international diplomacy: Negotiating between nations
work together by combining collection, classifica- while balancing political and economic issues. (24)
tion, storage, retrieval, and dissemination of data International Organization for Standardiza-
toward a certain outcome. (5) tion (ISO): An organization representing over 150
information technology (IT): An aid to each one of national standards bodies that has developed ISO
the five functional areas of retail businesses made 9001 standards to certify the quality of goods and
up of support employees that deal with every aspect services internationally. (7)
of digital information and create, exchange, analyze, international retailing: Retail operations of a com-
and store this information electronically. (12) pany that serve customers in multiple countries. (24)
infrastructure: The existence and condition of a International Trade Commission (ITC): A U.S.
country’s roads, transportation systems, electricity, government entity authorized by law to investi-
phones, technology, etc. (24) gate whether imported consumer goods infringe on
initial markup: The difference between merchandise domestic intellectual property rights (patents, copy-
cost and the selling price originally placed on mer- rights, trademarks, etc.). (24)
chandise; the first markup on items. (19) Internet search: The ability for people to locate
ink-jet printing: A computer-driven printing on a information digitally. (17)
machine with many micronozzles that spit droplets internship: Temporary employment to gain inside
of colors onto materials moving through them. (7) knowledge and hands-on experience in a desired
innovation: The creative, forward-thinking introduc- field. (26)
tion of new ideas. (6) intimate apparel: The general women’s category
inside address: The complete name, business title, that includes foundation garments, lingerie, and
and address of the person to whom a business letter loungewear. (14)
is written. (17) inventory: Goods held on hand for the production
inside shop: An apparel firm that does all stages of process or for sale to customers. (11)
garment production itself, from design concept and inventory control: The process of maintaining inven-
fabric purchasing, through all sewing procedures, to tories at a level big enough to prevent stock-outs, yet
the shipment of finished garments. (10) small enough to minimize holding costs. (11)
inspector/trimmer: An apparel manufacturing inventory management: Activities of acquiring,
employee who cuts off loose threads, pulls out receiving, and paying for optimum merchandise
basting stitches, and removes line and spots from assortments that ensure a flow of goods from ven-
garments. dors to stores to consumers; stock control. (15)
inspiration board: A board in a fashion design- inventory turns: Stock turnover. (15)
er’s studio on which photos of design ideas are
invoice: A detailed list of goods shipped or services
tacked. (9)
rendered, showing the money amount due. (16)
installment credit: A credit agreement with a small
invoicing: Billing for materials sent. (5)
down payment and additional payments spread over
several months or years. (20) irregulars: Items with imperfections, such as slight
mistakes in manufacturing. (15)
instant gratification: The unwillingness of consum-
ers to defer fulfillment of their wants to some future island windows: Four-sided, lobby display windows
time. (15) that stand alone and can be viewed from all sides. (22)

institutional advertising: A type of advertising item-level RFID: Microchip identification tags that
designed to sell the reputation of an organization are applied to each retail merchandise item from the
rather than a specific product; also called image source. (5)
advertising or corporate advertising. (21)
intensity: The brightness or dullness of a color. (8)
J
intensive market coverage: Blanket coverage to
Jacquard loom: A machine that is programmed
serve all customers of a market. (13)
to raise and lower specific warp yarns for each
interests: The things a person likes. (26) passage of the shuttle to create weaves, large and
internal theft: Theft (stealing) done by company intricate designs; damask, tapestry, and brocade are
employees. (20) examples. (7)

Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. Fashion Marketing & Merchandising Expanded Glossary 17
jagged lines: Lines that change direction abruptly labor-intensive: Requiring many workers to
and with sharp points like zigzags. (8) make the products, rather than relying heavily on
jewelry: Accessory items, such as pins, necklaces, machines and technology. (4)
earrings, bracelets, and cuff links. (14) lace: Fancy openwork fabric made by crossing, twist-
job: A specific work assignment or position ing, or looping yarns into designs. (7)
within an industry, with certain duties, roles, or laser-beam cutter: A machine that vaporizes a
functions. (26) single layer of fabric almost instantaneously with an
job description: A written statement of what the intense, powerful beam of light. (10)
employee holding a specific job is expected to layaway: A deferred purchase arrangement in which
do. (26) the retailer sets aside a customer’s merchandise until
job lot: A broken or unbalanced assortment, priced the customer has fully paid for it. (18)
low by a vendor for quick sale to a retailer; odd layout: How all the elements of an advertisement or
lot. (15) other visual arrangement are put together. (21)
job security: The assurance of keeping layout artist: An advertising employee who designs
employment. (26) layouts for ads.
joint cross-marketing: When businesses of different lead time: The time for ordering ahead when sourc-
types promote themselves together, thus providing ing from offshore locations. (10)
benefits to each other. (13) leased department: An area within a retail store that
joint venture: An agreement that brings necessary is stocked and operated by someone else. (6, 12)
skills or products of two companies together for leather: A tough, flexible material made from animal
added strength. (24) hides. (6)
junior: An apparel size for fully developed, small- ledger: A book or computer program containing
boned, and short-waisted females. (14) ongoing accounts of the company. (19)
just-in-time (JIT): An inventory system with a con- lengthwise grain: The direction the warp yarns run
tinuous process of inventory control that, through in a fabric, parallel to the selvages. (7)
pipeline teamwork, seeks to deliver a small quantity
leno weave: Fabric construction that produces an
of materials where and when needed. (11)
open effect using crossing pairs of warp yarns. (7)
liability: Legal responsibility for debts and
K obligations. (3)

key resources: Preferred vendors with whom the licensed merchandise stores: Concept shops built
retailer has had excellent past dealings and has con- around licensed merchandise. (12)
sistently placed large orders. Merchandise is profit- licensees: Manufacturers of products with a well-
able, has the proper image, and meets the needs of known name owned by others. (9)
the company’s customers. (15) licensing: A legal arrangement whereby manufactur-
keystone markup: The doubling of the cost to arrive ers (licensees) receive the exclusive right to produce
at the retail price. (19) and market goods that bear the famous label or
kiosk: A cart, electronic station, or open sales pavil- brand name of a designer (licensor). (9)
ion, usually centrally located in a shopping mall, licensors: Designers or owners of well-known
such as in a main walkway. (12) labels. (9)
knitting: A fabric construction method of looping lifestyle centers: Open-air shopping sites with
yarns together. (7) parking, apparel and home fashion specialty stores,
knockoff: Direct line-for-line duplicates of designs, upscale grocery markets, and trendy restaurants. (13)
usually of higher-priced garments or accessories. (9) lifestyle competition: Competition that does not
involve similar stores or products, but rather a fight
for consumers’ pastimes. (13)
L line: A distinct, elongated mark as if drawn by a
labels: Small pieces of ribbon permanently attached pen. A group of styles and designs that are produced
in garments, or stamped areas on the inside of gar- and sold as a set of new selections for a specific
ments, that contain printed information. (18) season. (8, 9)

18 Fashion Marketing & Merchandising Expanded Glossary Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
linen: A natural cellulosic fiber obtained from the magnetic stripe: An information-containing band
stalk of the flax plant. (6) on credit, financial, or security card that is read by
lines of authority: Levels of responsibility within a swiping through a special reading machine. (5)
company’s structure. (17) mail-order retailer: A retailer who sells mer-
lineup: The order in which outfits will appear in a chandise through catalogs that it distributes to
fashion show. (23) consumers. (12)
liquidators: People who buy leftover retail inven- maintained markup: The difference between the
tory from manufacturers and retailers for cash total cost of the merchandise and its final selling
payment. (19) price, or how much profit the company was able
to achieve over the cost of the goods for a time
live chat: Communication that occurs when a shop-
period. (19)
per and an agent type questions and answers into an
instant message-type box that appears in the con- major: A specific field of study in college. (26)
sumer’s web browser. (17) mannequin: A lifelike human form. (22)
local advertising: Ads sponsored by local merchants mannequin work: Employment as a model for a
that provide details about where to find products and designer or manufacturer to check fit and show
their prices and quantities available. (21) samples.
location-based marketing: A set of techniques that manufacturer’s suggested retail price (MSRP): The
allows retailers to analyze real-time data to target list price of what consumers should pay at retail,
mobile users in certain geographic areas. (17) recommended by the producer. (19)
logistics: The handling details of storing and management position: A position that is concerned
physically moving merchandise to the proper with running the business, including the planning,
locations. (11) organizing, controlling, implementing, and monitor-
logo: A symbol that represents a person, firm, or ing the program of the organization. (26)
organization. (9) management trainee: An entry-level employee who
long-run fashion: A style that takes a long time to has a college degree; executive trainee.
complete the fashion cycle. (2) management training program: A general orien-
loss: The negative amount if more costs and tation most companies offer for new employees
expenses were incurred than incoming sales with college degrees; also called executive trainee
amount. (19) programs. (26)
loss leader: Low-priced articles on which retailers manufactured fibers: Fibers created through tech-
make little to no profit due to lowering the price for nology and produced artificially from such sub-
promotional reasons. (19) stances as cellulose, petroleum, and chemicals. (6)
loss-prevention manager: A retail employee who manufacturers: Companies that make goods. (3)
protects company assets and improves profitability
margin: Profit per item. (9)
by developing and implementing security and safety
programs. markdown: The difference between the previous
selling price of an item and the reduced selling
loss-prevention programs: Action strategies to pre-
price. (19)
vent, recognize, and monitor security problems. (20)
markdown money: A chard to a vendor from a
loyalty program: A system of rewarding a retailer’s
retailer to help compensate for losses from reduced
best customers to encourage repeat sales, using
selling prices of that vendor’s goods. (19)
consumer-specific data. (20)
marker: A long piece of paper (the width of the
fabric to be cut) with all of the pattern pieces, in all
M sizes, laid out for cutting. An apparel-manufacturing
machine vision: The identification of bar codes or employee who figures out how to place pattern
goods with video cameras that read signatures, such pieces most efficiently for cutting. (10, 19)
as size, shape, or package color. (5) market: A group of potential customers; a geographic
magalogs: Subtle advertising put out by a company area where buyers and sellers met to exchange
that looks like a magazine and has interesting copy money for products and services, usually with many
and photos. (21) sellers in close proximity to each other. (11)

Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. Fashion Marketing & Merchandising Expanded Glossary 19
market analyst: An employee who conducts market mass fashion: Styles that are produced in volume
research to try to discover future market needs. and widely sold at lower prices. (1)
market center: A geographic area where goods are mass market cosmetic lines: Inexpensive lines sold
bought and sold at wholesale prices. (16) by lower-priced retailers. (14)
market coverage: The amount of concentration a mass merchandisers: Retailers of large amounts of
retailer has in a customer area, such as intensive, staple goods and mass-produced garments. (12)
selective, or exclusive. (13) master’s degree: An advanced college degree that is
market disruption: An import surge that seri- higher than a bachelor’s degree but not as high as a
ously injures or threatens a particular industry doctorate degree. (26)
that has products in direct competition with those materials handling: All activities of the goods not
imports. (24) involved in actual production processes, such as
market growth: An increase in the size of the entire the moving, storing, packing, and transporting
market, with more products sold and higher total of the raw materials, semifinished parts, or final
dollars of sales. (5) products. (11)
marketing: The total process of finding or creating a maze layout: A layout plan with a free-flowing
profitable market for specific goods or services. (3) arrangement of fixtures. (22)
marketing manager: An executive who plans and m-commerce: The name for selling and buy-
directs all marketing endeavors of a company. ing via mobile devices, such as smartphones and
marketing mix: The blend of features that satisfies a tablets. (17)
chosen market, including product, price, place, and mechanical finish: A finish that is applied mechani-
promotion. (3) cally rather than chemically to a fabric. (7)
marketing-oriented approach: Companies focus on mechanical spinning: A method of pulling (draw-
determining customer desires before goods are man- ing) and twisting staple fibers together to obtain
ufactured and try to satisfy customer demand. (3) continuous lengths of yarns. (6)
marketing specialist: An advertising director with a media: Forms of communication available for adver-
manufacturing firm. tising that include Internet, social media, television
marketing triangle: A way of relating price to quan- and cable TV, radio, magazines, outdoor/transporta-
tity, or the amount expected to be sold. (3) tion advertising, direct mail, and newspapers. (21)
market research: The process of systematically media buyer: An advertising employee who selects
gathering and analyzing information relating to a and buys the best media for clients’ ads.
particular market. (5) media kit: An information package of promotional
market segment: A smaller group of a total market materials (digital or print), that a company sends via
that contains similar characteristics. (5) mail or e-mail attachment, or uploads to the organi-
market segmentation: Dividing the total mar- zation’s website and social-media pages; also called
ket into smaller groups that contain similar a press kit. (21)
characteristics. (5) memorandum buying: An arrangement in which the
market share: The part of the total market controlled retailer takes title to the goods on receipt, but may
by a firm, usually computed by sales and indicated return unsold goods to the vendor after a specified
as a percentage of the total industry. (5) time. (15)
market week: A scheduled period of time during mercerization: A treatment under tension with caus-
which designers and producers display their new tic soda that gives luster, strength, and dyeability to
lines of merchandise and retail buyers shop the vari- cellulosic textiles. (7)
ous lines. (11, 16) merchandise acceptance curve: A bell-shaped
markup: The amount added to the cost of mer- curve that illustrates the stages of the fashion
chandise to determine the selling price; also called cycle from introduction, rise, peak, decline, and
mark-on. (19) obsolescence. (2)
mass customization: The offering of individu- merchandise blend: The right products being at the
ally made items to everyone, enabled by agile right place at the right time in the right quantity at
manufacturing. (25) the right price with the right appeal. (3)

20 Fashion Marketing & Merchandising Expanded Glossary Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
merchandise broker: An intermediary who works on microencapsulation: Textile finishing technology
a commission basis, paid by producers when retail that adds tiny particles to fabrics that slowly release
buying is arranged for that vendor’s goods; connects substances and add performance advantages. (7)
producers and retailers for the selling and buying of microsegmentation: The division of an indus-
goods. (16) try’s total market into extremely narrow target
merchandise buying: Obtaining planned merchan- markets. (25)
dise through vendors or other suppliers. (15) middle management: Jobs that involve a higher
merchandise coordinator: A manufacturing com- degree of responsibility than lower management
pany employee who makes sure merchandise is pre- jobs. (26)
sented as effectively as possible within retail stores. minimum wage: The lowest hourly wage rate estab-
merchandise items: Articles that are distinguishable lished by law. (26)
by specific, unique characteristics. (14) misses: An apparel size category for fully devel-
merchandise loan record: Written details of the bor- oped women of average height, weight, and
rowed merchandise for a fashion show. (23) proportions. (14)
merchandise management track: A retail career path missionary selling: An indirect sales technique that
concerned with merchandise planning and buying. involves providing information to and convincing
merchandise manager: An employee who customers that they need a product before trying to
coordinates the merchandise of several retail sell it to them. (6)
departments. (26) mobile devices: Portable and wireless phones, tab-
merchandise planning: Activities of estimating lets, and other smart objects. (17)
target customer demand and how it can best be model lineup sheet: An individual form for each
satisfied. (16) model in a fashion show, giving the order of appear-
merchandise presentation: The way to hang goods, ance, outfits, and other details. (23)
place them on shelves, or otherwise make them model list: A list of all the models that will be in a
available for sale in retail stores. (22) fashion show, including names, telephone numbers,
merchandise pull: Removing show items from the and apparel sizes. (23)
retail sales floor to a storage area for the fashion model order: The rotation of models in a fashion
show. (23) show. (23)
merchandise selling: Nonpersonal promotion and/or model stock plan: A proposed purchase list of the
exchange for money or credit for merchandise. (15) optimum of each category of goods to have on hand
merchandising: The process through which products to meet customers’ wants and needs, composed
are obtained (designed, developed, or presented for mostly of fashion merchandise with ever-changing
resale) and promoted to the point of sale. (3) appeal. (15)
merchandising cycle: An ongoing circle of planning, modesty: The covering of the body according to the
buying, and selling activity. (15) code of decency of a particular culture or society. (1)
merchandising director: An executive who figures modular manufacturing: A manufacturing process
out what the company’s customers will want. that divides the production workers into separate,
independent teams, or module work groups; also
merchandising policies: Specific management guide-
referred to a flexible manufacturing. (10)
lines a company follows to keep its inventory choices
on track based on current trends and the needs of mom and pop stores: Independent owner-operated
the target market. (13) stores run by a husband and wife, or a proprietor
and a few employees. (12)
message-media channel: In the middle of the com-
munication process, it includes various approaches monochromatic color scheme: A plan that uses dif-
for transmitting the message, including face-to-face ferent tints, shades, and intensities of one color. (8)
conversation, business memo, e-mail, phone, TV, monofilament yarns: Single filaments used as yarns,
Internet, social media, or other medium. (17) usually of a higher denier. (6)
microdenier fibers: Extremely thin filament monopoly: A market structure in which there are no
manufactured fibers that are soft, luxurious, and direct competitors and only one company offers a
drapable. (6) given good or service for sale. (3)

Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. Fashion Marketing & Merchandising Expanded Glossary 21
more than one: Suggestion selling of more than one neighborhood shopping center: A small cluster of
of the same or similar item. (18) five to 15 stores that services local consumers in sur-
multifilament yarns: Yarns consisting of many con- rounding neighborhoods. (13)
tinuous filaments or strands twisted together. (6) negotiate: Discuss and reach the best terms and con-
multinational corporation (MNC): A corporation ditions of a transaction. (16)
that operates globally, having direct investment in net: Openwork fabric made by crossing, twisting, or
several different countries. (24) looping yarns together in a regular pattern. (7)
music mix: The combination of different music net profit (or loss): The number result of deducting
selections to create specific moods, such as for a expenses from the gross margin figure; also called
fashion show. (23) operating profit (or loss). (19)
music planning sheet: For fashion shows, a list of net sales: The actual dollars earned and kept from
the many appropriate selections that match the mer- sales during an accounting period (gross sales minus
chandise theme. (23) returns and allowances). (19)
networking: The exchange of ideas, information, or
services, forming an interconnected or interrelated
N chain of communication. (4)
nanotechnology: The altering of materials atom by neural computing: Electronic programs that can
atom, such as at the molecular level of chemicals. (6) learn internally from their previous activities. (17)
nap: A layer of fiber ends raised from a fabric neutral: A color having almost no hue; can be used
surface, which appear different when viewed from alone or with almost any other color. (8)
different directions. (7) never-out list: A list kept by retailers of key items
national advertising: Ads sponsored by companies or best-selling goods that should always be on hand
that sell products on a nationwide basis to create and on display. (15)
general demand for products. (21) niche retailing: A specialty viewpoint in which
National Cotton Council: The central organization of departments of stores identify and closely target a
the cotton industry, which disseminates information specific set of fashion tastes. (25)
and lobbies for trade legislation. (6) noise: Static, distortion, or interference during the
National Retail Federation (NRF): The world’s larg- communication of a message. (17)
est retail trade association, which strives to represent noncellulosic manufactured fibers: Synthetic fibers
and promote healthy and prosperous retailing and to made of various petrochemical mixtures. (6)
unify the entire industry. (12)
nonprofit corporation: A corporation that exists
natural fibers: Textile strands from plants and to provide a social service rather than to make a
animals. (6) profit. (3)
near field communication: Wireless RFID technol- nonstore retailing: Selling without a conventional
ogy for smartphones, tablets, and similar mobile store facility, such as through mail-order catalogs,
devices with two-way communication to other such TV retailing, electronic retailing, and personal
devices within close proximity. (25) selling. (12)
neckties: Narrow lengths of material of various fab- nonverbal communication: The sending and receiv-
rics and surface designs worn at the shirt collar. (14) ing of messages without using words. (17)
need: Something a person must have for existence or nonwoven: Fabric formed by a compact web of
survival. (1) fibers, not yarns, held together with a combina-
needle punched: Mechanically interlocking fibers tion of moisture, heat, chemicals, friction, and/or
with a needle loom to make a nonwoven fabric char- pressure. (7)
acterized by regularly placed punched holes. (7) North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA):
needle trades: A term referring to the garment An open trading zone among the United States,
manufacturing, or apparel, industry. (10) Canada, and Mexico. (24)

22 Fashion Marketing & Merchandising Expanded Glossary Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
novelty fabric: A fashion fabric that changes with operating ratios: Mathematical relationships of
style trends and coordinates with apparel and acces- income and expense figures that measure a firm’s
sory designs. (7) effectiveness in generating sales and managing
expenses. (19)
operating statement: A summary of the financial
O results of a firm’s operations over a specified period
obsolescence factor: The rejection of used items in of time; also called an income statement. (19)
favor of newer ones, even though the old items may
operational policies: Specific management guide-
retain their utility value. (2)
lines designed to make customers feel good about
obsolescence stage: The end of the fashion cycle, at shopping with a retailer. (13)
which time the style becomes totally undesirable. (2)
operations management track: A retail career path
odd-figure pricing: The retail practice of pricing concerned with sales force management and retail
merchandise a few cents less than an even dollar site operations.
denomination. (19)
optical scanners: Electronic light beam readers that
off-price discounter: A retail establishment that feed bar code information to computer systems. (5)
sells a changing and unstable collection of brand-
optional services: Top services offered by full-
name or designer merchandise at lower-than-normal
service retailers that distinguish those retailers from
prices. (12)
others. (20)
offshore production: Manufacturing that is done
organization chart: A diagram showing a company’s
overseas. (10)
official structure, indicating lines of authority. (17)
offshore sourcing: Buying goods from overseas pro-
organizational climate: The feeling that employees
ducers, or contracting with overseas manufacturing
have about their opportunities, value, and rewards
plants. (15)
for good performance. (18)
oligopoly: A market situation in which each of a few
outbound marketing: Promotional messages sent out
producers affects but does not control the market. (3)
by companies, often electronically. (21)
omnichannel retailing: A successful business
outside shop: An apparel firm that handles every-
structure that is one seamless combination of all
thing but the sewing and sometimes the cutting,
selling channels together, with the same products
using contractors to do those production steps. (10)
and services uniformly offered throughout the
organization. (12) outsourcing: The hiring of independent specialists
to do particular work, rather than using company
online marketplace: A concept in which e-tailers sell
employees. (5)
goods from many sources. (25)
overall print: A printed design that is the same
open distribution policy: The selling and ship-
across all of a piece of fabric. (7)
ping of goods to anyone who can pay for the
merchandise. (11) overlighting: Lighting from above the merchandise
in a display. (22)
open-ended question: A question that requires a
multiple-word response rather than yes or no. (17) overrun: When a mill makes more fabric than was
ordered by its customers. (7)
open order: An order placed with a resident buyer or
vendor with no restrictions as to style, color, price, overstored: The existence of too many stores and
or delivery. (16) shopping centers in a retail trading area vying for
limited consumer dollars. (25)
open systems: Computer components from differ-
ent suppliers that are compatible with each other for overtime: Time worked beyond the usual 40-hour
ease in mixing or matching. (5) workweek. (26)

open-to-buy (OTB): The dollar (or merchandise unit)


amount that is available for buyers to order new
goods after all other purchases have been deducted P
for a specified time period. (15) packaging: The covering, wrapper, or container in
open windows: Display windows that have no which some merchandise is placed. (18)
background panel, with outside visibility into the packing slip: A document listing the contents of the
store. (22) shipment; also called a waybill. (16)

Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. Fashion Marketing & Merchandising Expanded Glossary 23
parity: Equal monetary value or treatment by the personalized pricing: A strategy that lowers prices
law. (24) for customers individually, depending on what other
partial commentary: A fashion commentary that items a particular customer is buying, the retailer’s
lists the major details of garments in outline form or relationship with the customer and suppliers, writ-
short sections of script. (23) ten reviews, and/or shopper history of high-value
purchases versus abandoned carts. It requires com-
partnerships: Unincorporated businesses where two
plex digital algorithm analytics using the continual
or more people share ownership and responsibility
collection of big data that shows shopping history
for operations. (3)
profiles. (25)
patronage motive: The reason why a customer
petite: An apparel size category for short
chooses to shop at one retailer rather than another
females. (14)
based on loyalty, reputation, image, merchandise
assortment, or price. (13) photographic model: A model who poses in front of
cameras for pictures used in press releases or adver-
pattern grader: A manufacturing employee who cre-
tisements of manufacturers and other firms. (26)
ates patterns in all sizes based on a master pattern
using pattern-grading software. (26) photo stylist: Employee who books models, acces-
sorizes apparel, obtains props, pins up hems, irons
pattern maker: A manufacturing employee who
garments, and picks up and returns merchandise for
translates designs to the right size, number, and
fashion photo shoots.
shape of pattern pieces. (26)
physical inventory: An inventory audit done by
payment fraud: Illegal activities concerning pay-
counting and recording actual stock at a certain
ment for goods, such as counterfeit money, false
time. (18)
credit cards and gift cards, fake receipts for returns,
etc. (20) physique: The shape of a male’s body. (8)
payroll: Employee wages including deductions. (26) piece dyeing: The dyeing of yard goods in fabric
perceived difference: The idea that in the custom- form after weaving or knitting rather than as fibers,
ers’ minds, the items stand out from others, usually yarns, or garments. (7)
because of image and quality. (9) piece goods buyer: A purchasing agent who
performance standard: A product rating according researches and busy the fabrics, trims, and notions
to suitability for specific end uses. (7) that are chosen by designers and approved by
management.
permanent finish: A fabric finish that lasts the life
of the garment. (7) piecework: A manufacturing process that assigns
one specific task to each person along an assembly
permanent press: A resin finish applied to certain
line. (10)
fabrics to help them retain their original shape and
resist wrinkling. (7) pile fabrics: Material with a surface effect of tufts,
loops, or other projecting yarns. (7)
perquisites: Extra niceties for employees with high
stature in the company. (26) pilferage: The stealing of a company’s inventory or
cash in small, petty amounts. (20)
personality: The total characteristics that distin-
guish an individual, especially his or her behavioral pill: To accumulate little balls of fibers on the sur-
and emotional tendencies. (1) face of a spun yarn fabric usually caused by rubbing
and wearing. (6)
personal selling: Moving merchandise directly to
customers through door-to-door sales, selling par- pilot plant: A small-scale trial production facility
ties, or showings in homes or work environments. that uses commercial factory methods. (6)
See direct selling. (12, 18) pinpointing: Lighting that focuses a narrow beam
personal shopper: Fashion consultant who chooses on a specific item on display. (22)
merchandise in response to customers’ requests or pinsonic thermal joining: The use of ultrasonic
accompanies customers to offer fashion advice and vibrations to quilt fabrics together with a series of
selection help. “welds” in a chosen design. (7)

24 Fashion Marketing & Merchandising Expanded Glossary Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
pivot: A turn that most often occurs at the halfway price elasticity: The percentage change in price com-
point and end of the runway. (23) pared to the percentage change in volume. (19)
plain weave: Simplest and most common fabric weave price look-up (PLU): A feature that automatically
in which each filling yarn passes successively over adjusts the prices to the correct amount when the
and under each warp yarn, alternating each row. (7) appropriate bar codes are scanned at checkout. (18)
planogram: A diagram that indicates the arrange- price positioning: A self-service retail strategy in
ment of products on fixtures to ensure the product which customers locate products themselves, com-
placement maximizes sales. (22) pare items, make unassisted decisions, and carry
plant engineer: A manufacturing employee who their selections to a cash/wrap area. (20)
makes sure all environmental systems are operating price promoting: Advertising special price reduc-
properly. (26) tions of goods to bring in shoppers. (13)
plant manager: An executive in charge of all opera- principles of design: Balance, proportion, emphasis,
tions and employees at a manufacturing plant. (26) and rhythm; guidelines for using the elements of
ply: Each yarn strand. (6) design. (8)
ply yarns: Yarns of two or more single yarns twisted printing: Process for adding color, pattern, or design
together for extra strength, added bulk, or unusual to the surface of fabrics. (7)
effects. (6) private-label credit card: A credit card with the
political stability: The degree to which a country’s retailer’s name and logo, but is issued and managed
laws and regulations are subject to change and are by a financial institution. (20)
enforced. (24) private label goods: Goods produced only for one
polymer: A long chain of chemical compounds. (6) specific retailer and bearing the retailer’s special
trademark or brand name. (4)
pop-up retail: Stores of short duration usually sea-
sonal and opening with a flurry, then disappearing a proactive approach: An attempt to make processes
few days or weeks later. (12) and situations better before problems occur, doing
everything right the first time. (11)
portfolio: A selection of related materials that a
person collects and organizes to demonstrate quali- procurement: Another name for buying at the
fications, knowledge, skills, and talents to potential wholesale level for resale at the retail level. (16)
employers or for application to a college or university product advertising: A type of advertising designed
program. (26) to sell a specific, identifiable merchandise item, line,
predictive analytics: Business intelligence technol- or certain service that is aimed at getting an imme-
ogy, based on sophisticated algorithms, that tries to diate response. (21)
detect shifts in individual consumer’s shopping pat- product affinity: Identification of what goods are
terns before competitors do. (17) usually sold together. (25)
preselling: Maintaining contacts with previous cus- product codes: Electronic readable symbols printed
tomers to start the selling steps all over again. (18) onto merchandise tickets or other labels for product
presser: An apparel industry employee who flattens identification and data collection. (5)
seams, irons garment surfaces, and shapes garments product development: The process of carrying a
with steam-pressing machines. product idea through stages from initial conceptual-
press release: A written news story sent as publicity ization to actual appearance in the market. (5)
to newspapers and magazines. (21) product development directors: Retail employees
press show: A private fashion showing for the press who have a thorough knowledge of fabrics, apparel
before the public sees the fashions. (23) design, and manufacturing methods. (15)
prestige pricing: A policy of setting high prices on product feature: The physical characteristic of an
items to imply quality and status, thus attracting item. (18)
customers who want to own expensive and exclusive product motive: The reason for a consumer pur-
merchandise. (13) chase that is based on qualities or images of certain
prêt-à-porter: The name for the French designer products. (13)
ready-to-wear industry. (9) products: Goods and services. (3)

Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. Fashion Marketing & Merchandising Expanded Glossary 25
product sourcers: Employees who identify, research, promotion buying: The purchase of items at special
open, and develop production sourcing markets and low prices to offer the store’s customers at reduced
vendors that meet their company’s long-term product prices. (15)
supply needs. promotion program: A written guide that details
product warranties: Assurances of product quality all of a company’s promotion efforts for a certain
that manufacturers or retailers give to customers; period, as well as for single important events. (21)
also called guarantees. (20) promotional mix: The combination of all types of
product-oriented approach: Companies produce persuasive communication an organization uses to
merchandise they choose to sell rather than respond- market itself and influence sales. (21)
ing to market demand. (3) prop: An additional object that supports the theme of
product specification sheet: A vendor’s list of assort- a display. (22)
ment style numbers, colors, sizes, and other product prophetic fashions: Styles that businesses identify
information. (16) early as future best-sellers in many price ranges. (9)
production: The transformation of resources into a proportion: The spatial relationship (or size) of
form people need or want. (10) all the parts in a design to each other and to the
production fashion show: The most elaborate and whole. (8)
expensive type of fashion show. (23) proprietary: Exclusive to the source of the infor-
production supervisor: A manufacturing company mation or product, and secret or unavailable to
employee who coordinates and directs various others. (5)
manufacturing operations.
proprietary credit card: A retailer-issued credit card
production worker: An employee who operates the that the retail firm owns and manages; in-house
machines that do the manufacturing procedures. credit card. (20)
productivity: A measure of how efficiently or effec- prospect: To search for customers who have the
tively materials and the factors of production are willingness to buy and the ability to pay for the com-
used. (10) pany’s products. (18)
product lifecycle management (PLM): A computer- protection: Physical safeguards. (1)
ized software system that manages the entire life
protectionism: The opposite of free trade and
of a product, from idea conception, through design
includes many government-imposed trade restraints,
and manufacture, to distribution and final sale and
such as the barriers to free trade. (24)
use. (11)
protein fiber: A natural fiber from an animal or
product manager: A manufacturing executive who
insect. (6)
is in charge of every aspect of one of the company’s
lines or a specific category of garments within a line. psychographics: Statistics that try to explain con-
A retail employee who develops, coordinates, exe- sumer behavior through such variables as lifestyle,
cutes, and delivers private label corporate programs. values, attitudes, and self-concept. (5)
profit: Money left over after the deduction of public corporations: Companies that offer their
expenses and taxes from the company’s sales of stock to the general public, usually on national
goods or services. (3) exchanges. (3)
profit margin: A measurement of profit as a per- publicist: A public relations agent who helps compa-
centage of net sales; also called return on sales nies project their public image.
(ROS). (19) publicity: Unpaid media coverage of news about an
profitability range: A range of figures showing the organization, or its products and activities, presented
most profitable to the least profitable lines of mer- at the discretion of the media. (21)
chandise, based on the profit-per-square-foot of sell- public relations (PR): Activities that try to build
ing space. (19) goodwill and a favorable image with the various
progression: See gradation. (8) publics of an organization, such as customers, stock-
holders, government agencies, community groups,
promotion: Nonpersonal communication to a large
and employees. (21)
general audience that furthers the sale of goods or
services to a large audience, rather than one-on-one public relations agent: An employee who tells the
selling. (3) firm’s story to stockholders and the press.

26 Fashion Marketing & Merchandising Expanded Glossary Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
public service announcement (PSA): An announce- quilted fabrics: Three-layer fabrics with batting
ment run free of charge by radio and televi- in the middle, usually held together by machine
sion stations for events, such as fashion shows, stitching. (7)
that are for charity and of general interest to the quota: A limitation established by the government
community. (23) on quantities of certain goods that can enter a coun-
purchase order (PO): A written contract authorizing try during a specified time. (24)
the manufacturer to deliver certain goods at specific
prices and times. (16)
purchasing agent: An employee who buys materials, R
equipment, and services needed for the company to radiation: Rhythm in a design created by lines
function. emerging from a central point like rays. (8)
purchasing behavior: The way consumers act in the radio frequency identification (RFID): The use of
market. (13) radio waves to communicate information from smart
pure competition: A market structure in which no labels containing a microchip with an antenna inlaid
single company in an industry is large or powerful into paper or plastic. (5)
enough to influence or control prices. (3) rag trade: An old insiders’ term for the garment
pure wool: New wool fibers or yarns that have never manufacturing industry. (10)
been used. (6) rain check: A certificate that entitles the customer to
purl knit: Reversible knitted fabric with prominent buy an out-of-stock advertised special at a later time
crosswise ridges with superior stretch and recovery at the same advertised price. (18)
in both directions. (7) ramie: A cellulosic fiber from the stalks of a woody-
leafed plant called China grass. (6)
Q ramped window: A type of enclosed window
with the display floor higher in the back than in
qualitative: What customers want. (5)
front. (22)
quality: The degree of excellence of a product. (7)
raschel knit: A patterned or intricate knit fabric
quality assurance: A guarantee (a promise) to made on a raschel knitting machine. (7)
customers that the company identifies and follows
rational behavior: A response to conscious
practices and procedures which meet customer
reasoning. (13)
specifications and expectations. (11)
raw materials: The preproduction resources, such as
quality control: A work process that involves routine
fabrics, trimmings, and notions, for apparel produc-
checking and testing of products against standards
tions. (4, 11)
to find and correct defects. (11)
reactive approach: To fix problems after they
quality control engineer: An employee who devel-
occur. (11)
ops specifications and maintains standards for the
products of a manufacturing plant. ready-to-wear (RTW): Garments, especially wom-
en’s apparel, produced in factories according to
quality control inspector: An employee who works
standard sizes as opposed to being individually
in all phases of production to analyze the quality of
custom-made. (9)
items being manufactured.
real-time: Instantaneous knowledge of what is
quality standard: A product rating according to level
occurring. (5)
of defects. (7)
receiver: The destination of a message or shipped
quantitative: How strongly customers feel about or
goods. (17)
want things. (5)
receiving: The actual exchange of goods between
quick response manufacturing (QRM): The trans-
the vendor’s transporting agent and the retailer. (18)
mission of product code data using EDI technology,
which ties together the entire supply chain to effi- recession: An economic decrease in national income,
ciently meet market needs by establishing electronic employment, and production. (3)
linkages with long-term customer-supplier partner reciprocal agreement: An exchange program with
companies through the entire chain. (5) schools in other parts of the country or world. (26)

Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. Fashion Marketing & Merchandising Expanded Glossary 27
recycled wool: Wool fibers recovered from previ- resident sales agent: A representative in a country
ously used wool. (6) who connects buyers of other countires with local
reduction planning. Estimating a percentage of sales manufacturers of particular types of goods. (24)
for stock shrinkage, markdowns, and discounts. (19) resilient: Having the ability to spring back when
refabricate: Apparel designs with high sales volumes crushed, stretched, or wrinkled. (6)
in the previous season that are retained for the next resistant: The second word of a phrase for fabric
season with only minor changes. (10) finishes that indicates partial protection, such as
regional advertising: Ads within an area of adjoin- water-resistant. (7)
ing states or a confined section of the country. (21) resources: Industrial materials and manufacturing
regional manager: A chain retailer executive who capabilities, including raw materials, money, equip-
oversees several districts. ment, and workers. See suppliers and vendor. (3)

regional shopping center: A group of many stores, response: The reactions of the receiver of a commu-
often in an enclosed mall with several shopping lev- nication after exposure to the message. (17)
els and one or more full-line anchors. (13) response time: The time for factories to produce
and deliver goods when sourcing from offshore
regular order: A stock order for line
locations. (10)
merchandise. (16)
responsive selling: Selling that occurs in response
regular price-line buying: The writing of purchase
to the customer’s presence, rather than going out to
orders for merchandise from vendors at regular price
find customers. (18)
during market times, as well as later reorders. (15)
restructuring: Examination of a business to
rehearsal: A practice session, such as for a fashion
see what changes can make it better, reallocat-
show. (23)
ing resources and employees, and changing its
renewable finish: A fabric finish that is temporary course. (25)
but can be replaced or reapplied. (7)
retail buyer: A merchandising executive who is
reorder: An additional order of the same merchan- responsible for selecting and purchasing goods for
dise as ordered previously. (16) his or her retail company to sell. (15)
repellent: See resistant. (7) retail coordinator: A fashion and promotional
repetition: A method of creating rhythm in a design liaison between pattern companies and retail fabric
by repeating lines, shapes, colors, or textures. (8) stores.
reporting/consulting service: An organization retailers: Companies that sell products in small
that collects, tabulates, and reports information quantities to consumers. (3)
on certain product lines and/or merchandising retail group: Stores, Internet retail sites, mail-order
activities. (16) catalogs, TV home shopping channels, and other
repricing: Price increases and decreases on goods retail enterprises that sell finished goods. (4)
that are in stock. (19) retailing: The business of selling merchandise or
research and development (R&D): Innovation to dis- services directly to final consumers, for their use,
cover knew knowledge, develop new products, and through a store or other method. (3, 4)
improve old products. (26) retail positioning: Where a retailer situates itself
reseller: A wholesaler often dealing in inexpensive in the consumer market, which guides all other
accessories and small, non-fashion products; also decisions about how the retailer satisfies its tar-
distributes goods between producers and retailers or get customers while differentiating itself from
users. (4) competitors. (13)
resident buying office (RBO): A service business retail promotion: Promotion by retailers to
that employs buyers who daily scout fashion markets customers. (21)
to provide their client retailers with advance market retail salespeople: Store employees, often called
information and buying help. (16) sales associates, who sell goods directly to
resident buying office buyer: An employee who customers. (18)
helps member retail firms do a better buying job but returns to vendors (RTVs): Goods that a retailer
has no responsibilities over retail sales or profits. ships back to a supplier. (18)

28 Fashion Marketing & Merchandising Expanded Glossary Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
revenue: Income before expenses. (23) sales manager: A supervisor of several sales repre-
reverse logistics: Expertise needed to deal with sentatives in an established district of the country or
returns. (12) a division of the company. (26)
rhythm: The pleasing arrangement of the design sales-per-square-foot: A retail comparison figure to
elements to produce a feeling of continuity or easy determine success versus previous years or against
movement of the observer’s eye. (8) others, calculated by dividing total sales by total
square feet. (19)
rib knit: A double-knit fabric with pronounced
lengthwise ridges and great crosswise stretch. (7) sales presentations: Formal, well-prepared showings
of a company’s goods to potential customers. (11)
rib weave: A plain weave with a corded effect cre-
ated by using coarser yarns in one direction and sales productivity: Retail effectiveness and effi-
regular yarns in the other direction. (7) ciency shown through such results as average sales
per hour, average items sold per transaction, and
robbery: Violent or after-hours theft; burglary. (20)
average dollars per transaction. (19)
robotics: The use of machines that can be pro-
grammed automatically to do mechanical tasks. (11) sales promotion: The retail function that involves
advertising, display, public relations, publicity, and
roller printing: Inexpensive, simple high-speed
special events to encourage public acceptance of
method of applying color directly to fabric with a
goods or services to try to result in their sale. (12, 13)
series of metal rollers engraved with a design. (7)
sales quota: A projected volume of sales (units or
rotary screen printing: A combination of roller and
dollars) assigned to a selling department or person
screen printing in which dye is pushed through a
for a certain period of time. (18)
perforated cylindrical screen to apply each color. (7)
sales slip: A printed receipt that shows prices for
royalty: A payment of a percentage dollar amount of
purchased items, tax, and the sales total of the
sales receipts. (9)
transaction. (18)
runway: An elevated walkway for the models that
sales support area: An area devoted to customer
projects out from the stage, usually into the audience
service, merchandise receiving and distribution,
seating area. (23)
management offices, and staff activities. (22)
runway model: A model who works in front of live
sales-per-square-foot: A figure for comparing per-
audiences. (26)
formance that is calculated by dividing total sales
volume by the total square feet of selling space. (19)
S sales tax: An extra percentage of a purchase col-
salary: A fixed amount of pay for doing all that a lected by retailers in most states to be paid to the
particular job requires. (26) state government. (18)
sales: Financial income amount over a certain time sales trainee: An employee who is learning how to
period; money received from merchandise sold. (19) be effective in sales by working under an experi-
enced salesperson.
sales associate: A retail employee who uses more
formal or creative selling skills than just ringing up salutation: The beginning greeting of a business
sales; “order getters.” (18) letter. (17)
sales-below-cost laws: State laws that attempt to same-store sales growth: An indicator of retail
preserve competition by restricting unusually low success that compares the results of each succeed-
pricing. (19) ing year against previous years, usually shown in a
percentage increase or decrease. (19)
sales catalog: A source to purchase basic goods, con-
taining photos or drawings of items, and sometimes sample: A trial garment, or prototype, made up
fabric swatches. (15) exactly as it is intended to look when sold. (10)
salesclerk: A retail employee who facilitates routine sample cutter: An apparel company employee who
sales transactions; “order taker.” (18) cuts out sample parts to be sewn together. (26)
sales forecasting: Predicting the quantity of each sample maker: An apparel company employee who
item that the company will sell during a particular sews sample garment designs together; also called a
future fiscal time period. (11) sample hand. (26)

Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. Fashion Marketing & Merchandising Expanded Glossary 29
sampling: A sales promotion technique that encour- self-help feature: A design feature that makes it
ages consumers to try products by giving them free easier for children to get into and out of clothes by
samples. (10) themselves. (14)
satellite shipment tracking: Real-time knowledge self-service retailing: A store in which customers
of the position of shipments via global positioning locate products themselves, compare items, make
responders. (11) an unassisted decision, and carry their selections to
satin weave: A basic fabric weave that has long checkout. (20)
yarn floats on the surface giving a smooth, lustrous selling area: The space that contains merchandise
appearance. (7) displays and areas where customers interact with
saturation: The level of acceptance in which the sales personnel. (21)
market has been supplied with the most it will selling areas: Store layout areas where merchandise
absorb of a fashion. (2) is displayed and customers interact with sales per-
scale: See proportion. (8) sonnel. (13, 22)

scarf: A decorative wrap of various sizes, colors, selling expenses: Costs of payroll (wages) for the
fabrics, and designs. (14) sales staff, advertising, delivery costs, and other
costs for the selling function. (19)
S corporation: A small corporation with a limited
number of shareholders taxed like a sole proprietor- selvage: Strong lengthwise edges of fabric that do
ship or partnership. (3) not ravel, formed when the filling yarns turn to go
back in the other direction. (7)
screen printing: A printing method similar to sten-
semi-enclosed window: A display window that has
ciling in which the dye is forced through untreated
a partial background that shuts out some of the store
areas of a fabric screen onto the material being
interior from those viewing the window. (22)
printed. (7)
sender: The source of a message or shipped
seamstress: A person who constructs garments by
goods. (17)
sewing.
seniority: The length of time an employee has
search engines: Websites that collect and organize
been in a job compared to others who do the same
content from all over the Internet. (17)
job. (26)
seasonal product: A good that changes in popularity
service: A intangible activity performed for people,
or demand with the seasons of the year. (4)
usually connecting something valued with people
secondary group: The manufacturing segment of the who will pay for and use it. (3)
soft goods chain that makes fabricated products. (4)
service features: The actual service offerings. (20)
secondary hues: The colors of orange, green, and
service positioning: A full-service retail strategy
violet made by mixing equal amounts of two pri-
with higher prices to cover the higher operating
mary hues together. (8)
costs of offering so many services; often used by spe-
seconds: Merchandise factory rejects with defects cialty stores and upscale department stores. (20)
that may affect wearability. (15)
service quality: How well services are per-
secured credit card: A credit card with an annual formed to approach, meet, or exceed customer
fee that is linked to a savings account containing expectations. (20)
enough money to back up most or all of the credit
service retailer: A specialty retailer that does not
line. (20)
sell tangible goods that can be held or stored, but
security: Protection from danger and loss. (20) instead performs a service for a price. (12)
security guard: An employee who protects against sewing machine operator: A manufacturing
theft and usually also handles health and safety employee who constructs apparel on fast industrial
emergencies. (20) power machines.
selected distribution policy: Selling only to a limited shade: The result of adding black to a hue to create a
number of stores per area. (11) color darker than the pure hue. (8)
selective market coverage: Having enough locations shadowbox window: A small, enclosed, boxlike
to adequately cover selected target markets. (13) display window at eye level. (22)

30 Fashion Marketing & Merchandising Expanded Glossary Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
shearling: The skin from a recently sheared sheep or smart locker: A customized digitally controlled
lamb, tanned and dressed with the wool left on. (6) locker used in various locations for package delivery
shoplifting: The stealing of merchandise from a by e-tailers. (20)
retail store by a person posing as a customer. (20) social media: The various platforms for content cre-
shoppertainment: The combination of entertainment ated and shared via websites and mobile apps. (17)
and retailing to draw consumers. (13) social responsibility: Going beyond what is legal—to
short-run fashion: A style that is popular for a do what helps society. (5)
brief period of time, usually for only one selling soft goods chain: The channel of distribution for
season. (2) apparel and home decorating textiles. (4)
shoulder-out presentation: The way of hanging gar- softlines: Products made from textiles, also known
ments with only one side showing from shoulder to as soft goods. (14)
bottom. (22) sole proprietorship: A business that is owned by
showroom: A company-owned sales area where just one person, although he or she may have many
merchandise is displayed and sales presentations are employees. (3)
given. (11) solution dyeing: The process of adding color to a
showrooming: The process where consumers evalu- fiber solution before extrusion, giving a clear, rich
ate merchandise in stores and then comparison shop color with high colorfastness, since the pigment is
electronically to buy the items at the lowest price part of the fiber. (7)
from an online retail site. (13) solutions: Answers to problems. (18)
showroom manager: A supervisor of all personnel solution spinning: The making of multifilament
and activity in a company’s showroom. yarns simultaneously with extrusion from the
showroom salespeople: In-house sales employees at spinneret. (6)
a firm’s sales offices, who present goods to visiting source tagging: The process of integrating antishop-
buyers. lifting tags into product packaging at the manufac-
shrinkage: The difference between book inventory turing level. (20)
(according to records) and the actual physical inven- sourcing: The investigation, identification, and
tory; also called stock and cash shortage. (20) development process of determining how and where
signage: The total of all the informational plaques of to procure manufactured goods for resale. (10)
a store or location. (13, 22) sourcing consultant: An expert hired to guide
silhouette: The overall form or outline of an companies to identify countries and factories
outfit. (8) that give the best opportunities for their apparel
silk: A natural protein fiber obtained from cocoons production. (10)
spun by silkworms. (6) special event: A promotional activity held to build
single knit: A stretchy knit fabric constructed on a customer traffic, sell goods, and enhance the com-
single needle, weft knitting machine. (7) pany image. (23)
sketcher: An apparel company employee who does special order: An order placed to satisfy individual
freehand drawings of ideas that designers have customers’ requests. (16)
draped with fabric onto mannequins. (26) specialized merchandiser: A retailer who offers
skill: A person’s ability for doing a certain task. (26) limited lines of related products targeted to more
sloper: A basic pattern in a certain size, or to par- defined customers. (12)
ticular body measurements, from which fashion specialty chain: Specialty retailers that are part of a
patterns are created. (10) regional or national chain. (12)
Small Business Administration (SBA): A govern- specialty store: A retail establishment that carries a
ment agency that offers helpful counseling, work- large selections of limited classifications of merchan-
shops, videos, website, and free publications to dise, usually at lower volume and higher prices than
entrepreneurs. (26) discounters. (12)
smartcard: A plastic card for consumers that con- specification buying: When a retailer submits
tains a small microprocessor that stores information definite specifications to a manufacturer rather than
or electronic cash. (5) looking for goods already produced. (15)

Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. Fashion Marketing & Merchandising Expanded Glossary 31
spinneret: A nozzle with many tiny holes (similar stock-out: A situation of being out of a particular
to a showerhead), each of which forms a filament item, especially because too few were ordered or
fiber. (6) produced to meet customer demand. (15)
spinning: The process that draws, twists, and winds stock shortage: See shrinkage. (20)
individual fibers into long, cohesive strands to form stock-to-sales ratio: A calculation that shows dollar
yarns. (6) sales volume in relation to the dollar values of aver-
split-complementary color scheme: The use of one age inventory. (15)
color with the two colors on each side of its comple- stock turnover: The number of times the average
ment on the color wheel. (8) inventory on hand is sold and replaced during a
sponsor: The company paying for an ad. (21) given period, or how fast merchandise goes in and
sponsorship: Taking responsibility for the back- out of the store; also called inventory turns. (15)
ing, support, and promotion for a sports team or store clusters: Groups of stores based on related
event. (21) characteristics and customer demographics. (13)
spotlighting: Lighting that focuses attention on spe- store layout: The interior arrangement of retail
cific areas or targeted items of merchandise. (22) facilities. (22)
spreader: A machine that holds bolts of fabric and store manager: The top employee in charge of every
rolls back and forth to spread yard goods onto long aspect of a store’s operations. (26)
tables in high stacks for garment cutting; also an store operations: The retail function concerned with
employee who lays out the fabric for cutting. (10) physically managing and maintaining the store. (12)
spun yarn: A yarn made by spinning (mechanically STORES magazine: The trade publication of the
pulling and twisting) staple fibers together into a National Retail Federation (NRF). (12)
continuous length. (6)
store security: The function of loss preven-
standard of living: The material comforts people tions of merchandise, money, and other company
have based on the kinds and quality of goods and possessions. (20)
services they can afford. (3)
store-within-a-store (SWAS): A retailing concept
staple fabric: A commodity textile product made with designer departments inside upscale depart-
continuously each year with little or no change in ment stores, with the designer firm providing their
construction or finish. (7) own trained staff and having control over the pre-
staple fibers: Short fibers that are usually several sentation, prices, and sales of their goods. (13)
inches long. (6) store wrap: Putting customer purchases in a distinc-
starter: A person who cues the models onto the stage tive store box, bag, or wrapping paper of a particular
in the correct order, at the right time, guided by the color and design. (20)
lineup and commentary script. (23) straight lines: Elongated marks that are not curved
start-up costs: The expenses to turn a new business or jagged. (8)
venture into a reality. strike-off artist: An employee who arranges prints
status: A person’s position or rank compared to on fabrics after the motifs and colors have been
others. (1) established.
stock clerk: A retail stockkeeping job that receives striking the stage: Physically disassembling the set,
merchandise from delivery trucks, opens containers, for instance of a fashion show, and returning props
unpacks items, and compares delivery records with and equipment. (23)
the actual goods received. structural adjustment: The process of industries
stock dyeing: The dyeing of natural fibers in staple and economies adapting to long-term shifts in
form. (7) competitiveness. (24)
stockkeeping duty: Merchandise handling that structural design: Designs with added tex-
includes receiving, preparing, protecting against ture or interest built into the fabrics during
damage or theft, and controlling the merchandise manufacturing. (7)
before it is sold. (18) structural line: A line formed during garment
stock keeping unit (SKU): The smallest unit for construction (seam, dart, pleat, tuck, or edge); an
which sales and stock records are kept. (15) assembly detail that creates visual interest. (8)

32 Fashion Marketing & Merchandising Expanded Glossary Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
style: Distinct features that create an overall appear- tailor system: A manufacturing system in which
ance in a garment. Also, a particular design, shape, a single operator does all sewing tasks to make a
or type of garment with unique characteristics that garment. (10)
make it different from others. (1) tanning: The process of preserving animal hides to
style number: The number assigned to a particular make leather. (6)
apparel design that identifies it for manufacturing, target market: The specific segment of a total mar-
retail ordering, and distribution. (10) ket that a company wants as customers, and toward
subspecialty stores: Retailers that specialize in whom it directs its marketing efforts. (3)
extremely narrow lines of merchandise. (12) target marketing: Defining the specialized niche of
substitutable goods: Goods that can be used in place the market to which the company wishes to make its
of each other to meet customers’ needs. (14) greatest appeal. (5)
suggestion selling: A method of increasing sales by taste: The prevailing opinion of what is attractive
adding to the customers’ original purchases. (18) and appropriate for a given person and occasion. (1)
suit separates: Jackets and trousers that can be tearoom modeling: A type of informal fashion show
mixed and matched, and are often worn for office in which models walk individually from table to
work and other dressy occasions. (14) table in a restaurant to show and tell about what
super-regional centers: The largest malls and shop- they are wearing. (23)
ping areas, also called power centers or mega malls. technical designer: An apparel manufacturing
suppliers: Resources for goods; vendors or employee who works with the corporate design team
resources. (3, 15) and contracts factories overseas to ensure appropri-
ate fabric choices, correct garment construction, and
supply: The quantities of a good or service that pro-
proper fit.
ducers are willing and able to provide at a particular
time at various prices. (3) technical textiles: Textiles for industrial uses rather
than for fashion. (4)
surge pricing: Automatic price increases on products
when there is limited supply and high demand. (19) technical writer: A commercial pattern company
employee who creates clear sewing directions that
survey: A market research method of asking ques-
are easy to read and follow.
tions to consumers via mail, telephone, or mall
intercepts. (5) technology: Scientific discovery or modification of
products and methods, usually advanced through
sustainability: Not harming the environment or
research and development. (7, 9)
depleting natural resources. (5)
technology transfer: The spread of technological
sweater knit: A loosely knitted stretchy fabric made
knowledge. (11)
with large yarns. (7)
telecommunication: The transfer of information across
sweethearting: Providing discounts, uncharged
distances, often from computer to computer. (17)
items, or fraudulent returns to friends, relatives, or
theft partners by a cashier. (20) telecommuting: Working out of a home, using a
computer and other home office resources. (17)
swipe fee: A percentage of the credit card transac-
tion paid by the retailer. (20) teleconferencing: See automated conference. (17)
synergy: Cooperative interaction of parts that results television retailing: Selling to consumers by show-
in a total effect that is greater than the sum of the ing and describing merchandise on certain television
parts added together separately. (5) channels. (12)
temporary finish: A fabric finish that lasts until
washing or dry cleaning. (7)
T tenant mix: The particular assortment of different
table seating: Fashion show seating, often at round types of stores grouped together in a cluster, shop-
tables, when a meal is served in conjuction with the ping center, or mall. (13)
show. (23) terms of sale: The conditions governing a sale, as set
tablet: A thin, flat mobile device with a touchscreen forth by the seller. (16)
display. (17) tertiary hues: Colors made by combining equal
tailor: See dressmaker. amounts of adjoining primary and secondary hues. (8)

Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. Fashion Marketing & Merchandising Expanded Glossary 33
textile/apparel pipeline: Another name for the soft through-put time: Production time from start to fin-
goods chain. (4) ish for a product. (10)
textile/apparel preservation: The giving of special tint: The result of adding white to a hue to create a
attention to long-term care of fabrics and clothing. color lighter than the pure hue. (8)
textile broker: An individual or company that toiletry: A personal care product used in
matches the needs of sellers and buyers to each other grooming. (14)
for a commission. (7) top grain leather: High-quality genuine leather used
Textile/Clothing Technology Corporation [TC]2: in most consumer products. (6)
A not-for-profit industry-wide coalition of textile, top management: The highest level of company
apparel, and retail firms and trade associations, executives. (26)
government, academia (textile/apparel colleges), and
total costs: The sum of a company’s fixed and vari-
labor organizations. (5)
able expenses. (19)
textile jobber: A wholesale distributor who buys
total quality management (TQM): An ongoing
textiles at low prices from companies that cannot
process focusing on internal requirements to deliver
use them. (7)
the right products in the best way for continuous
textile laboratory technician: A textile industry improvement of service and satisfaction beyond cus-
employee who helps conduct research, often working tomers’ expectations. (11)
under research scientists. (26)
trade: International commerce that involves imports,
textile performance: How a fabric performs, mea- exports, and exchanges of money. (24)
sured by durability, colorfastness, stain resistance,
trade association: A nonprofit, voluntary organi-
and other attributes. (4)
zation made up of businesses that have common
textile research scientist: An employee who does interests. (4)
R&D in several different textile areas to satisfy needs
for specific end uses. (26) trade deficit: A deficit that occurs when imports
exceed exports. (24)
textile tester: A textile industry employee who tests
new products against required specifications or stan- trade discount: A percentage off the manufacturer’s
dards of quality. listed retail price of products that vendors give to
buyers on repeat or large orders. (16)
texture: The tactile quality of goods, or how the
surface of a material feels and looks. (8) trade name: A brand name that identifies the prod-
uct and/or its manufacturer. (6)
textured: A way to describe yarns that are processed
with chemicals, heat, or special machinery to add trade promotion: Promotion to the next segment of
visual surface characteristics. (6) the distribution chain within the industry. (21)

textured knit: A knitted fabric made of filament trade publications: Magazines, newspapers, and
yarns that have been permanently crimped, coiled, books that deal specifically with a certain industry
curled, or looped. (7) or segment of an industry. (4)
theater seating: Rows of chairs lined up side by side, trade regions: Areas of the world that have free trade
facing a stage or fashion show runway. (23) within them, with neighboring countries joining
together for advantageous production and sales of
theatrical costuming: Creating wardrobes for
goods. (24)
performers in operas, ballets, stage plays, movies,
advertisements, television shows, and parades. trade show: A periodic temporary exhibit schedule
throughout the year in various trading centers. (16)
third-party credit card: A general-use credit card
issued by an outside institution. Examples include Mas- trade surplus: A surplus that occurs when exports
terCard, Discover, American Express, and VISA. (20) exceed imports. (24)
three-functional organization: A retail com- trading up: A method of suggestion selling that
pany structure that has merchandise, operations, involves obtaining larger sales by selling higher-
and financial managers all reporting to a general priced, better-quality merchandise to customers. (18)
manager. trademark: Any word, name, logo, device, or com-
thrift shop: A retailer that sells used secondhand bination of these that is used to identify and distin-
clothes and other household goods, most often to guish goods of one company from others. (11)
raise money for a charity. (12) traffic: Number of retail shoppers. (13)

34 Fashion Marketing & Merchandising Expanded Glossary Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
traffic manager: An employee who manages a distri- two-functional organization: A retail company
bution center and tries to get products quickly from structure that has one manager employed to oversee
manufacturing to the customer. all merchandising duties and another manager in
trainee: An employee who is learning how to do a charge of store operations.
job. (26)
training supervisor: A manufacturing employee
who trains new workers to do specific tasks or to use
U
specialized machines; also retail employees who give uncontrollable expenses: Costs over which compa-
orientation classes to new salespeople. nies have no control and that, in the short run, can-
not be adjusted to current operating needs. (19)
transshipping: The rerouting of goods to evade
quota limits. (24) undecided customers: A classification of customers
that need an item, but seek pertinent information
traveling sales representative: A manufacturer’s rep
about products. (18)
who sells producers’ lines around the country by
making individual sales calls. underlighting: Lighting from beneath the merchan-
dise in a display. (22)
triadic color scheme: A plan that uses three colors
equidistant on the color wheel. (8) uneven plaid: A design of crossing lines and spaces
that are different in one or both directions. (7)
trial confirmation: The use of questions to get an
indication of what the customer needs to close a uniforms: Articles of clothing that are alike and spe-
sale. (18) cific to everyone in a certain group of people. (1)
trickle-across theory: The assumption that fashion unit production system (UPS): A CAM piecework
moves horizontally through groups at similar social system in which the cut pieces of a garment are hung
levels from fashion leaders to followers. (2) (loaded) together on an overhead product carrier that
moves them through the production line. (10)
trickle-down theory: The assumption that suggests
that fashion trends start at the top of a social hierar- Universal Product Code (UPC): A standard bar code
chy and gradually progress downward through lower that includes numbers as well as bars and spaces. (5)
levels. (2) upper management: High-level jobs held by strategic
trickle-up theory: The assumption that suggests that thinkers who are devoted to employees. (26)
fashion acceptance begins among the young or lower upselling: The suggestion of a substitute item that is
income groups and flows upward to older or higher- higher priced, of better quality, or more economical
income groups. (2) for a customer. (18)
tricot: A drapable, warp knit fabric that does not
run. (7)
trimmings: The decorative materials of fashion
V
items, such as buttons, laces, belts, and braids that value: The lightness or darkness of a color, ranging
are added to enhance the design. (10) on a scale from almost white to almost black. (8)
true bias: The diagonal on the fabric that runs at a value added: The increase in worth of products
45-degree angle, or halfway between the lengthwise resulting from a particular work activity. (24)
and crosswise grains. (7) value positioning: A medium-service retail strategy
trunk show: When a manufacturer brings a com- with middle price point merchandise with expected
plete collection of samples into a retail store or exhi- services offered. (20)
bition hall for a limited amount of time. (11) value pricing: The selling of items below the price
turnaround time: How soon the vendor can deliver suggested by vendors of the goods. (13)
finished items after goods are ordered. (15) values: The ideas, beliefs, and material items that
twill weave: A basic fabric weave characterized by are important to an individual. (1)
diagonal wales produced by a series of staggered value statement: A written document that deals
floats. (7) with employee standards and corporate culture
twin plant program: The use of two manufacturing building. (26)
sites, with one in the U.S. and the other in a nearby variable cost: Expenses that increase or decrease
low-wage country. (24) with the volume of sales. (19)

Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. Fashion Marketing & Merchandising Expanded Glossary 35
variant: A manufactured fiber that is modified wall standard: A vertical strip with holes into which
slightly (within its generic group) during production, retailers can insert various types of brackets and
resulting in a change in its properties for specific fixtures. (22)
appearance or use. (6) wall washer: A floodlight that spreads light across
vendor: A seller from whom a retailer purchases an area of wall. (22)
goods. (15) want: A person’s desire for something that gives him
vendor-managed inventory (VMI): A system in or her satisfaction. (1)
which manufacturers or suppliers are respon- want book/slips: Retail forms on which salespeople
sible for replenishing merchants’ supplies of record customer inquiries or requests about products
merchandise. (15) not carried or out of stock. (15)
vendor preticketing: Manufacturer-attached labels wardrobe designer: The head of a theatrical cos-
and price tags as specified by the retailer. (15) tume department.
verbal communication: Sending messages with the wardrobe helper: A costumer technician for theatri-
use of words. (17) cal costuming.
vertical competition: Competition between busi- warehouse: A holding facility for storing backup
nesses at different levels of the supply chain. (13) stocks of supplies or finished goods. (11)
vertical integration: The combining of two or more warm colors: Hues from red to yellow on the color
steps of the pipeline within one company and under wheel that represent fire, sun, or brilliance. (8)
one management. (4) warp knit: A fabric made on a flat knitting machine
vertical lines: Elongated marks that go up and using many yarns and needles, with loops interlock-
down. (8) ing in the lengthwise direction. (7)
vice president: A corporate executive who usually waterfall: A slant-arm fixture intended to hold one
oversees a particular function of company business. item per knob. (22)
virgin wool: Wool fibers that have never been used water-jet cutter: A machine that cuts small stacks of
before; also called pure wool or 100 percent wool. (6) fabric layers with a thick stream of very high-pres-
virtual merchandising: Bringing all parts of online sure water. (10)
shopping into brick-and-mortar stores through wearable art: Creative apparel designs that are
omnichannel retailing, including all merchandise handmade to be worn or exhibited as art. (1)
offered by a retailer and its partners digitally. (25) weaving: The procedure of interlacing two sets of
virtual product development (VPD): The prac- yarns at right angles to each other, usually done on a
tice of developing products in a fully digital loom. (7)
environment. (11) web cookies: Pieces of data sent from a website and
virtual reality (VR): A computer-generated experi- stored in users’ browsers while the users navigate
ence that stimulates all the senses to create a percep- websites. (17)
tion of being in another environment that responds web design: The development and maintenance of
to, or is interactive with, the user. (5) Internet websites. (17)
visual aids: Communication instructional display webinar: Electronically transmitted, interactive
items that appeal mainly to people’s vision. (17) seminars, presentations, lectures, or workshops sent
visual merchandising: The physical display of goods via the Internet. (17)
in the most attractive and appealing ways, to educate website: An individual location on the Internet,
shoppers about the merchandise and create in them sponsored by a company or organization. (21)
a desire to buy. (22)
weft knit: A fabric knit with one continuous strand
volume fashion: See mass fashion. (1) of yarn going crosswise; also called filling knits. (7)
weft yarns: The name for the crosswise yarns in a
woven fabric. (7)
W white space: The empty space of an advertisement
wall fixture: A merchandise presentation fixture or other written or printed page that has no copy or
attached to the wall. (22) illustration. (21)

36 Fashion Marketing & Merchandising Expanded Glossary Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
wholesalers: Intermediaries, also called resellers or work-in-process (WIP): Partially completed goods,
distributors, who purchase large quantities of goods produced in parts or sections that have not yet been
from manufacturers and sell small quantities to joined together. (11)
retailers. (15) workplace diversity: The blending of people of dif-
wholesale warehouse club: A retailer that special- ferent races, cultures, genders, ages, socioeconomic
izes in bulk sales of a limited selection of nationally backgrounds, personality types, and intelligence
branded staple merchandise. (12) levels into productive employment teams. (26)
wholly owned subsidiary: A separate firm that is work-study programs: A team approach between
owned by the parent company. (24) employees and educational institutions that gives
wicking: The dispersing or spreading of moisture students on-the-job training for future careers. (26)
or liquid through a given area, such as pulling body World Trade Organization (WTO): An international
moisture to the surface of a fabric where it can trade accord that reduces tariffs, quotas, and other
evaporate. (6) trade barriers around the world. (24)
window dresser: An employee who does window worldwide advertising: Advertising done via the
displays. Internet. (21)
winners: The best-selling items in a manufactur- worsted: High-quality wool yarns and fabrics, made
er’s line that are recut for production for the next from long staple combed wool fibers. (6)
season. (9) wrapping: An activity comprised of bagging, store
women’s: An apparel size category for females with wrapping, and gift wrapping. (20)
larger proportions. (14)
Women’s Wear Daily: A trade, print, and digital Y
newspaper covering all aspects of the women’s fash-
yarn dyeing: The dyeing of yarns before they are
ion business. (4)
woven or knitted into fabrics. (7)
wool: A natural protein fiber obtained from the
yarns: Continuous strands of textile fibers in a form
fleece of sheep. (6)
suitable for processing into fabrics. (4)
woolen: Less expensive wool fabric, made of short
year-end bonus: A bonus, usually given at the end of
fibers, that is relatively dense and has a soft, fuzzy
the year, based on the company’s profits and length
surface. (6)
of time a worker has been with the company. (26)
work design: The ergonomic matching of jobs and
equipment to employees, the companies’ output
requirements, compensation plans, and reinforce-
ment of worker behaviors. (10)

Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. Fashion Marketing & Merchandising Expanded Glossary 37

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