SESSION

PATTERN SHELL
5
CONSTRUCTION

▪ CREATION OF A SHELL PATTERN

▪ DISSECTION OF THE INDIVIDUAL PATTERNS
▪ SPRINGING OF PATTERNS
▪ ADDING ALLOWANCES AND MARGINS
▪ CREATION OF STROBEL SOCK
ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN - STROBEL

80 % OF NIKE’S PRODUCTION IS STROBEL

LASTING AND SO WE WILL USE THIS METHOD AS
A PATTERN EXERCISE.

WE WILL BE USING THE QD-10 SIZE 9 RUNNING

LAST AS THE BASIS WITH THE UPPER DESIGN AS
SHOWN ON THE PICTURES HEREWITH.
WE WILL BE USING A SINGLE SIDED SHELL
PATTERN SHOWING BOTH LATERAL AND MEDIAL
SIDES.
 ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN - STROBEL

USE THE ESTABLISHED LAST DRAFT PATTERN AND ADD THE STROBEL CONSTRUCTION LASTING
ALLOWANCES

The toe area is given a 10mm

allowance and this continues
around and is blended into the
8mm at the waist area..
NOTE: This can vary,
depending
on the type and thickness of
the upper material being used.
The waist area should have an 8mm
A 6mm allowance is added to seat
allowance added which will then be
area for strobel stitching, after lasting,
blended into the 6mm of the seat.
only this 6mm.
margin should be folded over the
featheredge.
ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – THROAT POINT

ESTABLISH THE THROAT POINT – MEASURE 60 MM FOR MEN’S SIZE 9 FROM THE TIP
POINT BACKWARDS AND MARK THE POSITION
 ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – THROAT POINT

SPACE HAS TO BE LEFT BETWEEN THE SCORE LINE AND THE LAST DRAFT SURFACE .
THIS WILL BE THE ALLOWANCE FO4 THE TONGUE THICKNESS, INCLUSIVE OF THE FOAM

IN THIS INSTANCE IT WILL BE

2.5-3.0 MM WHICH WILL ALLOW
FOR A TOTAL OF 5-6 MM AS
THIS IS A SINGLE SIDED SHELL.
ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – VAMP SCORE LINE

DEPENDING ON THE VAMP MATERIAL, THE VAMP SCORE LINE CAN BE CUT INTO THE
LAST OR ABOVE IT. IN THIS CASE IT IS JUST BELOW, SELECT A POINT AND LINE IT UP
WITH THE THROAT POINT AND DRAW A STRAIGHT LINE.
ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – TIP LENGTH

TO ESTABLISH THE CORRECT TIP LENGTH FOR LASTING WE NEED TO BRING THE
LASTING ALLOWANCE AROUND TO MEET THE VAMP SCORE LINE AT RIGHT ANGLES.
NORMALLY THIS ALLOWANCE AT THE FRONT IS REDUCED BY 3 MM ANTICIPATING SOME
FORWARD STRETCH IN LASTING..

A B
ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – HEEL CURVE AREA

ALLOWANCE HAS TO BE MADE FOR THE TYPE AND THICKNESS OF THE FOAM PACKAGE TO BE
PLACED IN THE BACK, THE THICKER AND HARDER, THE MORE SPACE IS NEEDED.

ALSO CONSIDER THE THICKNESS OF THE MATERIAL GOING AROUND THE OUTSIDE OF THE
LAST. COLLAR LINING, COUNTER, NYLON PACKAGE AND SYNTHETIC LEATHER.
ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – DESIGN LINES

DRAW IN THE PARAMETER LINES USING THE PRE

DETERMINED STANDARDS

THROAT WIDTH IS 30 MM
EYE-STAY HEIGHT IS 90 MM
QUARTER OPENING 105-110 MM
COLLAR HEIGHTS LATERAL IS 56 MM AND 60 MM FOR MEDIAL FOR MEN’S
SIZE 9
BACK HEIGHTS ARE 80 MM FOR MEN’S SIZE 9
ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – GENERIC TIP LINE

WHEN PREPARING A TIP LINE AND THERE IS SUCH A SMALL DIFFERENCE, IT IS

RECOMMENDED TO TAKE THE AVERAGE OF THE TWO. THIS WILL MAKE PATTERN
EXECUTION AND HANDLING MORE EFFICIENT.
ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – INTERIOR DESIGN LINES

ESTABLISH ALL THE INTERNAL DESIGN LINES AS REQUIRED

ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – DESIGN LINES

INTERNAL DESIGN LINES ARE DRAWN IN AS

REQUIRED.
ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – QUARTER OVERLAY (1)

BOTH QUARTER OVERLAYS ARE

CUT, LATERAL AND MEDIAL WITH
THE LATTER IS MARKED WITH A “V”
CUT IN THE LASTING MARGIN AREA

THE STROBEL LOCATION MARKS

ARE PUT INTO THE QUARTER
OVERLAYS AS OUTWARDS “V”
CUTS.
ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – QUARTER OVERLAY (2)

REINFORCEMENT PATTERN IS REQUIRED AND IS CUT

WITH A 3 MM MARGIN FROM THE EDGE AND A 10 MM
MARGIN FROM THE LASTING EDGE.

NO REINFORCEMENT IS PLACED AT THE TOP

OF THE QUARTER AS THIS WILL HAVE THE
EYE STAY REINFORCEMENT IN PLACE, TOO
MANY LEVELS WILL CAUSE BULKINESS AND
X-RAYING

ONE CAN LOOK TO MAKE ONE SINGLE PATTERN

FOR THE REINFORCEMENT AS THE BOTTOM
AREA GOES INTO THE LASTING MARGIN, THIS
NEEDS TO BE CHECKED BEFORE MAKING A
DECISION.
ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – VAMP PATTERN

YELLOW SHADED AREA REPRESENTS THE VAMP

PATTERN THAT HAS TO BE CUT FROM THE SHELL
PATTERN

NEXT FEW SLIDES WILL SHOW HOW TO ESTABLISH

THIS PATTERN, STEP BY STEP.
ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – VAMP PATTERN (1)

ESTABLISH AN UNDERLAY MARGIN, IN THIS CASE IT IS 10 MM AS IT IS NYLON.

B1

USE THE POINT CREATED BY THE 10 MM

MARGIN POINT (B) AND THE BOTTOM OF
THE LAST DRAFT TOE AREA POINT (C) TO
CREATE A STRAIGHT LINE
ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – VAMP PATTERN (2)

BY CHANGING THE SCORE LINE ANGLE, WE ARE ABLE TO REMOVE THE EXCESS
MATERIAL AROUND THE TOE AREA..

THIS SMALL “V” CUT IS PUT

INTO THE PATTERN TO
ASSIST WITH THE VAMP
HAVING TO FORM OVER THE
ROUND WALL LAST EDGE.

THIS FRONT SECTION OF THE VAMP CAN EITHER BE ZIGZAG STITCHED OR

LEFT AS IS WHEN IT IS A SEPARATE LINING.
ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – VAMP PATTERN (3)

TO ESTABLISH THE LENGTH OF THE VAMP PATTERN IN THE FRONT, MEASURE AB

AND THEN TRANSFER TO B1-D. THIS WILL GIVE THE CORRECT VAMP LENGTH

A B1 B

THE 10 MM UNDERLAY AREA IS LOST IN

THE PATTERN HAVING TO CURVE OVER
THE LAST WALL AND ALSO IN
COMPRESSION OF THE MATERIAL
ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – VAMP PATTERN (4)

THE FRONT/TOE LASTING EDGE IS MOVED DOWNWARDS AND SO THE LASTING

MARGIN HAS TO BE REDRAWN IN AS SHOW IN THE PICTURE.

REMEMBER THAT THERE ARE NO SHARP

EDGES AND THE BLENDING SHOULD BE A
SMOOTH LINE
DO NOT FORGET TO DO BOTH LATERAL
AND MEDIAL SIDES.
 ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – VAMP PATTERN (5)

WITH THIS NEW VAMP TOE LINE WE CAN NOW CUT THE ENTIRE VAMP PATTERN

VAMP SCORE LINE

TOE SCORE LINE

USING THE VAMP SCORE LINE AS THE

CENTER LINE , DRAW IN THE
PARAMETER LINES OF THE VAMP
PATTERN ALSO USING THE TOE SCORE
LINE.
DRAW IN ALL THE CORRESPONDING
ATTACHMENT LINES
 ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – VAMP PATTERN (6)
AN ALLOWANCE OF 1 MM IS ADDED TO EACH SIDE OF THE VAMP WHERE IS JOINS THE
QUARTER AND IS ZIGZAG STITCHED TO HELP WITH THE SHRINKAGE OF LENGTH.

ADD GAUGE MARKING ADD GAUGE MARKING

LINES FOR TIP AMD LINES FOR TIP AMD
QUARTER OVERLAYS QUARTER OVERLAYS

SHADED AREAS WILL

FRONT SCORE LINE WILL BE BE COVERED WITH
ZIGZAG STITCHED TO OVERLAYS.
GENERATE A 3D SHAPED VAMP
SECTION
 ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – VAMP PATTERN (7)
CREATING GAUGE MARK LINES FOR THE OVERLAY AREAS, THESE ARE SHADED IN BLUE

WHEN CUTTING A GAUGE MARK,

ALWAYS CUT THE SECOND CUT ON
THE INSIDE OF THE ORIGINAL
MARKER, THIS ALLOWS FOR THE
MARKER TO BE COVERED BY THE
OVERLAY.
ALSO INDICATE WHICH LINE TO
USE AS THE MARKER BY CUTTING
A “V’ IN THE SECOND LINE

DETAILS OF HOW TO CREATE A GAUGE

MARKER
 ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – TIP PATTERN (1)

THIS DISTANCE CAN BE ESTABLISHED BY

ADDING THE THICKNES OF THE TIP
MATERIAL, REINFORCEMENT AND VAMP TO
GENERATE A POINT
E

DRAW A LINE THROUGH POINT “D”

ALREADY ESTABLISHED AS THE
BOTTOM OF THE TOE VAMP PATTERN
THIS GENERATES THE TIP SCORE LINE
 ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – TIP PATTERN (2)

TAKE THE TIP LENGTH ESTABLISHED

FRO AB AND TRANSFER IT TO THE
LINE DE STARTING AT POINT D AND
MARK OFF.
THIS NOW GENERATES THE TIP
SCORE LINE.
THE TIP FRONT NOW NEEDS TO BE
DROPPED DOWN TO POINT F AND
THE LINE BLENDED INTO THE APRON
ALONG THE SIDES
ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – TIP PATTERN (4)

THE TIP FRONT IS DROPPED TO ACCOMMODATE THE SPRING AND SO THE AMOUNT
DROPPED IS COMPENSATED BY DROPPING THE LASTING EDGE OF THE TIP AS SHOWN
IN THE PICTURE.

IT IS IMPORTANT THAT THE TIP LINE

INTERSECT THE SCORE LINE A RIGHT
ANGLES TO GENERATE A SMOOTH
EDGE.
NOTE THIS MAY NOT ALWAYS BE THE
DESIRED EFFECT
 ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – TIP PATTERN (3)

TIP PATTERN CAN NOW BE CUT USING THE NEWLY GENERATED SCORE LINE
ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – TIP PATTERN (5)

UNDERLAY ALLOWANCE IS ADDED (10 MM) AND THE GAUGE MARKERS ARE
CUT OUT.

MEDIAL SIDE IDENTIFICATION IS INDICATED BY A “V” CUT ALONG THE

LASTING MARGIN.
 ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – TIP REINFORCEMENT (1)

USING THE TIP PATTERN AS AN OUTLINE, CONSTRUCT ANOTHER PATTERN

BY REMOVING 3 MM FROM THE TOP AND 10 MM FROM THE LASTING
MARGIN, THE SIDES SHOULD NOT EXTEND INTO THE STITCHING MARGIN
OF THE QUARTERS

REMOVE A 3 MM MARGIN ALONG

THE TIP LINE

SIDES SHOULD NOT SIDES SHOULD NOT

EXTEND UNDER THE EXTEND UNDER THE
STITCHING MARGIN STITCHING MARGIN
AREA AREA

REMOVE A 10 MM MARGIN ALONG

THE LASTING AREA
 ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – THE QUARTER (2)
THE TWO QUARTERS FOR LATERAL AND MEDIAL SIDES, SHADED AREA SHOWS UNDERLAY
SECTIONS

THE 1 MM
ALLOWANCE FOR THIS ALLOWANCE
SHRINKAGE DURING CAN ALSO BE ADDED
ZIGZAG STITCHING IS TO THE BACK CURVE
ALSO ADDED TO THE OF THE PATTER4N
QUARTERS ALONG
THE STITCHING EDGE
ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – THE QUARTER (3)

MARKERS ARE CUT FOR BOTH QUARTERS AS SHOWN HERE, NOTE THE BANDAGE STRAP
DOES NOT HAVE MARKERS AS IT IS STITCHED FROM THE INSIDE OF THE QUARTER ALONG THE
EDGE OF THE COMPONENT. THE 1.5 MM FROM THE EDGE ACTS AS THE MARKER FOR THE
OPERATOR.

THESE OUTWARD NICKS ACT AS A LOCATION MARKER FOR THE BANDAGE STRAP.
 ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – THE BANDAGE STRAP (1)

THE BANDAGE STRAP IS STITCHED FROM THE LINING SIDE OF THE QUARTER WITH THE
EDGES OF THE BANDAGE POSITIONED ON THE OUTWARD NICKS ON THE QUARTER EXTERIOR.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO NOTE
THAT A FLAT MACHINE WITH
A WALKING FOOD FEED IS
NEEDED TO DO THIS
OPERATION, THIS KEEPS
THE STITCHING LINE
STRAIGHT ON THE SURFACE
OF THE MATERIAL.

THE BANDAGE STRAP CAN BE CUT AS A INDIVIDUAL PATTERN OR STRIP CUT IN A ROLL AND
FEED FROM EITHER THE BOTTOM OR THE TOP OF THE ATTACHING MACHINE.
ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – QUARTER OVERLAY (1)

UNDERLAY ALLOWANCE IS ADDED (10 MM)

TO THE BOTTOM

THE UNDERLAY SECTION IS

INDICATED BY CUTTING OUT
THE MARKER SHOWN IN BLUE.
 ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – EYE STAY (1)

BOTTOM THROAT PATTERN IS CUT WITH

UNDERLAY AREA BEING SHADED, NO MARKER
IS REQUIRED HERE

TOP EYE STAY SECTION IS CUT SHOWING THE

LACE HOLES AND SHADED AREA INDICATES
UNDERLAY SECTION.

EYE STAY REINFORCEMENT , NORMALLY IDEAL

TAPE, IS CUT WITH A 3 MM REDUCTION FROM
THE EYE STAY EDGE..
ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – SWOOSH OVERLAY (1)

THE TWO SEPARATE SWOOSHES ARE CUT, NOTE THE UNDERLAY SECTION AT THE END IS
SHORTENED SO AS TO LAYER THE UNDERLAY EFFECT. THIS WAY WE DON’T HAVE SUCH A
BIG STEP IN THE THICKNESS AND SO REDUCE THE X-RAY EFFECT.
ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – COLLAR FOAM & COUNTER

THERE IS THE NEED TO ESTABLISH TWO NEW SCORE LINES FOR THE COLLAR LINING AND THE
COUNTER, BOTH ON THE INSIDE OF THE SHELL PATTERN PARAMETER.
ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – COLLAR FOAM (1)

THE COLLAR FOAM SCORE LINE IS STARTED AT 3-4 MM IN FROM THE TOP AND 5-6 MM AT ITS
BASE, REMEMBER THE BOTTOM OF THE COLLAR FOAM SHOULD NOT COVER THE COUNTER BY
MORE THAN 10 MM.

IN THIS EXAMPLE WE ARE USING 002 FOAM (MEDIUM DENSITY), THERE SHOULD BE A 5 MM
MARGIN ADDED TO THE TOP LINE OF THE COLLAR PATTERN.
THE COLLAR FOAM PATTERN SHOULD STOP SHORT OF THE LOWEST EYE STAY LACE HOLE
ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – COLLAR FOAM (2)

COLLAR FOAM PATTERN IS DISSECTED WITH LATERAL AND MEDIAL SIDES AND ALLOWANCE FOR
HELPING TO GIVE A BETTER FINISHED APPEARANCE OF THE TURNED TOP LINE OF THE
COMPLETED SHOE.
ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – COUNTER (1)

THE TOP OF THE COUNTER PATTERN IS STARTED AT 3-2 MM IN FROM THE FOXING OR BACK
CURVE AND IS DRAWN THROW TO A RIGHT ANGLE AT THE BOTTOM OF THE COUNTER.

THE STANDARD COUNTER LENGTH FOR THE SIZE 9 IS 85-90 MM LONG

ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – COUNTER (2)

COUNTER REINFORCEMENT IS DISSECTED AS SHOWN ON THE PICTURE

ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – FOXING PATTERN (1)

CREATE THE SCORE LINE TO CUT THE FOXING PATTERN, THIS NEEDS TO BE DONE ON THE
OUTSIDE OF THE BACK CURVE.
ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – FOXING PATTERN (2)

A FOXING PATTERN SCORE LINE IS CONSTRUCTED ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE LAST BACK CURVE
AS THIS COMPONENT HAS TO GO AROUND THE OUTSIDE OF ALL THE OTHER COMPONENTS.
A FOXING REINFORCEMENT PATTERN IS CONSTRUCTED MUSH THE SAME WAY OTHER
REINFORCEMENT PATTERNS WERE, REDUCE BY A 3 MM MARGIN AROUND THE TOP AND 10 MM AT
THE LASTING MARGIN
 ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – FOXING PATTERN (3)

EMBROIDERY LOCATION IS
ESTABLISHED FOR THE MACHINE

STROBEL LOCATION POINTS ARE ESTABLISHED +/- 70 MM FROM SEAT POINT AND AN
OUTWARD NICK IS ESTABLISHED AS SHOWN IN THE DIAGRAM BELOW.

THESE NICKS ARE NORMALLY 2 X 2

MM IN DIMENSION
 ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – COLLAR LINING (1)

COLLAR LINING PATTERN STARTS OFF 4-5 MM IN FROM THE TOP AND ABOUT 7-8 MM IN FROM THE
CENTER OF THE BACK CURVE, THIS GENERATES TWO POINTS FROM WHICH TO CREATE A
COLLAR LINING SCORE LINE.
LENGTH OF COLLAR LINING IS ALSO SHORTENED TO HELP IN
STRETCHING THE COMPONENT ON WHILST STITCHING, THIS
HELPS TO ELIMINATE THE WRINKLES.

USE THE QUARTER PATTERN

LINE TO CREATE THIS NEW
SHORTENED COLLAR LINING

THE COLLAR LINING IS EXTENDED BEYOND THE LASTING MARGIN

BY 6 MM AT THE SEAT AND BY 10 MM AT THE FRONT OF THE
LINING PATTERN
ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – COLLAR LINING (2)

PATTERN IS DISSECTED AS REQUIRED WITH LATERAL AND MEDIAL SIDES.

ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – TONGUE ASSEMBLY (1)

NOTE, THE LINING IS MADE SMALLER IN THE WIDTH AREA THAN THE TONGUE TOP.
THIS IS TO ALLOW FOR THE BEND OF THE TONGUE OVER THE FOOT AND THIS HELPS TO
ELIMINATE WRINKLING OF THE LINING ON THE FOOT.

THE YELLOW SHADED AREA REPRESENTS THE

TONGUE LINING PATTERN

THE PURPLE SHADED AREA REPRESENTS THE

TONGUE TOP PATTERN

THE LINING IS REDUCED BY A 5 MM MARGIN ON THE

SIDES, FROM THE TOP TO THE BOTTOM AS SHOWN ON
THIS SLIDE.
ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – TONGUE ASSEMBLY (2)

TONGUE LINING TONGUE TOP

BOTH SECTIONS HAVE AN EQUAL 3 MM MARGIN ADDED TO THE TOP OF THE COMPONENT FOR THE
STITCH AND TURN OPERATION IN ASSEMBLY, THE BASE OF THE TONGUE LINING IS EXTENDED BY
6-7 MM EXTRA TO GIVE A LAYERED EFFECT.
ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – TONGUE ASSEMBLY (3)

THE RED SHADED AREA REPRESENTS THE

TONGUE FOAM PATTERN

THE RED SHADED AREA REPRESENTS THE

TONGUE LINING PATTERN

THE FOAM IS CUT IN FROM

WHERE THE TWO COMPONENTS
ARE ATTACHED BY 3-4 MM, THIS
HELPS TO ELIMINATE BULKY
SEAMS IN THE FINISHED
COMPONENT.
ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – TONGUE ASSEMBLY (4)

THE TOP EDGE OF THE FOAM IS CUT NETT TO THE

PATTERN SO THAT IT TURNS OVER WITH THE
STITCH AND TURN GIVING A SMOOTHER SEAM
APPEARANCE.

THE FOAM IS CUT SHORT OF THE THROAT POINT

SO AS TO NOT HAVE TOO MUCH THICKNESS
UNDER THE EYE STAY POSITION. SOME TIMES
THIS FOAM PATTERN IS LIFTED MUCH HIGHER AS
THERE IS ONLY LACE PRESSURE MUCH HIGHER UP
THE CONE.
ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – STROBEL SOCK PATTERN (2)

REDUCED MARGIN

NEW STROBEL PATTERN

THE INITIAL STROBEL SOCK PATTERN IS ESTABLISHED BY USING THE BOTTOM GAUGE LAST
PATTERN AS THE FOUNDATION.
A CORRESPONDING MARGIN IS REMOVED FROM THE NETT PATTERN TO ALLOW FOR THE
LASTING ALLOWANCE ADDED TO THE UPPER SHELL PATTERN.
THERE IS A 8 MM REDUCTION IN THE TOE AREA, 6 MM IN THE WAIST AND 3 MM AROUND THE
HEEL AND SEAT AREA.
ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – STROBEL SOCK PATTERN (3)

STROBEL SOCK IS SPRUNG OUTWARDS TO THE LATERAL SIDE SO THAT THE TOE CENTER LINE
MOVES LATERALLY BY 10-12 MM, THIS HELPS TO KEEP THE STROBEL SOCK CENTER LINE
STRAIGHT DURING LASTING.
IT LENGTHS THE MEDIAL SIDE OF THE STROBEL SOCK PATTERN WHICH WAS SHORTENED
DURING THE LAST DRAFT AVERAGING PROCESS.
ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – STROBEL SOCK PATTERN (5)

SOMETIMES ADDITIONAL LOCATION MARKS CAN BE USED

ONCE THE BASIC STROBEL SOCK PATTERN HAS BEEN ESTABLISHED WE NEED TO MARK OUT
THE NECESSARY MANUFACTURING MARGINS.

THIS IS THE NON CEMENTING AREA AND IS ONLY PRIMED

THIS TOGETHER WITH THE STROBEL MARGIN IS THE CEMENTING AREA

FOR THE OPERATOR TO APPLY ADHESIVE 10 MM ALL THE WAY AROUND.

THIS IS THE STROBEL STITCHING ALLOWANCE 4 MM ALL THE

WAY AROUND.
ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – STROBEL SOCK PATTERN (6)

A STARTING POINT FOR THE STROBEL OPERATOR NEEDS TO BE INDICATED AND THIS IS DONE ON THE
MEDIAL SIDE OF A LEFT FOOT AND THE LATERAL SIDE OF THE RIGHT FOOT.
ALWAYS IN THE WAIST AREA AS THE STITCHING DIRECTION NEEDS TO BE TO FINISH THE HEEL AREA
FIRST AND THEN THE FORE FOOT
ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – SOCK LOCATION POINTS (1)
C

DRAW A LINE THROUGH THE ORIGINAL TIP LASTING POINT

AND THEN THROUGH THE APEX OF THE HEEL CURVE, THIS
WILL GENERATE THE LINE AB. MEASURE THE LENGTH OF
WE NEED TO PREPARE D
THE LINE.
THE STROBEL SOCK
PATTERN BEFORE MEASURE 2/3 OF THIS LENGTH FROM POINT B AND CREATE
FILLING IN THE ANOTHER LINE CD AT RIGHT ANGLES AT THIS
LOCATION POINTS INTERSECTION POINT.
ONTO THE PATTERN DRAW CD THROUGH THE LASTING MARGIN AND THIS WILL
CREATE THE FORE FOOT STROBEL LOCATION POINT.
THE HEEL POINT IS MARKED AT 90 MM FROM THE HEEL
BASE
ESTABLISHING A SHELL PATTERN – SOCK LOCATION POINTS (4)

TO ESTABLISH THE LOCATION POINTS ON THE

STROBEL SOCK PATTERN WE NEED TO SPRING THE
EDGE ALONG THE LASTING EDGE OF THE SHELL
PATTERN AND TRANSFER THE MARKS ACROSS.
WE NORMALLY START BY POSITIONING THE HEEL AND
WORKING OUR WAY TO THE FRONT OF THE SHOE.