Blackjack Blueprint
How to Play Like
A Pro … Part-Time

Rick “Night Train” Blaine

Huntington Press
Las Vegas, Nevada
 
Blackjack Blueprint
How to Play Like a Pro … Part-Time

Published by
Huntington Press
3665 Procyon St.
Las Vegas, NV 89103
Phone (702) 252-0655
e-mail: books@huntingtonpress.com

Copyright ©2014, Rick Blaine

eBook ISBN: 978-1-935396-10-9

Print ISBN: 978-1-935396-53-6

Cover Photos supplied by Image100 Royalty Free Photos and Photo Disc Royalty Free
Photos

Design & Production: Laurie Cabot

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be translated, reproduced, or

transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying
and recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without the express
written permission of the copyright owner.
 

Dedication

This book is dedicated to the memory of Sonny Boy.

Although we never had the opportunity to play at the same table, he
was the man from whom I first learned about wagering.
 

Acknowledgments

Kevin Blackwood, who recently authored Play Blackjack Like the

Pros, provided mutual feedback on our respective projects. Kevin
has been very generous with information, as well as upbeat and
encouraging.
George C. is a well-respected author and a former teammate,
whom I nicknamed “the Legend.” A few years ago, when I had just
ended a losing team bank, George provided me with an introduction
to one of the best-financed advantage-play groups at the time. I hope
to return the favor some day. Among the several books George has
authored, The Unbalanced Zen II and Shuffle Tracking for Beginners are
referenced in my book.
Anthony Curtis, after I told him of my plans to write a complete
book, looked over the manuscript, and in the summer of 2003 told
me, “I want to publish this.” Anthony is a dynamic individual and a
workaholic. He also knows his business. With all the projects
Huntington Press had going, coupled with Anthony’s being an icon
on the Travel Channel, it’s been two years and it’s finally my turn.
Experiencing the level of focus Anthony possesses and the
marketing capabilities of Huntington Press has me excited. I’m
grateful to Anthony.
Dustin Marks, author of Cheating at Blackjack and Cheating at
Blackjack Squared, was kind enough to lend his expertise and review
the chapter of my manuscript on the subject of cheating. My thanks
to Dustin for the suggestions provided, which have added greatly to
the project.
Richard W. Munchkin, author of Gambling Wizards, reviewed my
chapters on Zone Tracking, Location Play, and Team Play. I’m
grateful for the suggestions and insight from this most talented
individual.
Viktor Nacht, a colorful figure who picked up the publishing of
my second version of Blackjack in the Zone, jumped right in and
added some pizzazz to the work. After that, in his first major
publishing effort, Viktor rolled out Don Schlesinger’s Blackjack Attack
3, The Ultimate Weapon, which is truly a masterpiece. Viktor has
always been supportive of my projects. Thanks, Viktor.
Sal Piacente is the top gaming-protection expert in the world now
that his mentor, Steve Forte, is retired. Yes, it’s true that Sal works to
protect the same casinos from which I attempt to use my skills to
win money. However, we extend each other a professional courtesy.
I won’t play in any casino with which he works and he won’t reveal
my identity to anyone. Both of us being from Brooklyn, we know the
value of one’s word. Sal is also one of the top memory experts in the
world. He was good enough to contribute his S.A.L. (Simple
Associated Learning) memory system as part of the chapter on
Location Play.
Mickey Rosa is one of the masterminds of the infamous MIT
team and one of the most brilliant individuals in the advantage-
playing arena. Mickey lent his expertise by looking over chapters of
this book on Zone Tracking, Location Play, and Team Play.
Max Rubin can best be described as the power broker of the
gaming world. His masterful book, Comp City, is one of the best-
hidden jewels for advantage players. Reading Max’s work gave me
enormous insight, which led to my development of some new moves
that still work to this day. Max’s support over the years is greatly
valued.
Don Schlesinger, author of Blackjack Attack 3, The Ultimate
Weapon, has been a most-valued supporter of all my projects. Don is
a no-nonsense calls-it-like-he-sees-it type of guy. Most folks don’t
know that Don has read just about every book on the subject of
blackjack and has offered his invaluable feedback to many of the
authors. Over the years and through the production of the book
you’re about to read, Don has not only reviewed the overall content,
but red-inked my manuscripts like a college English professor. Every
author can benefit from Don’s expertise, as he not only points out
what needs to be corrected, but he also acknowledges what you did
right. A fairer and more honest person is hard to find.
Arnold Snyder supported my authoring of two report-style
books, both of which he published in 2000 as Blackjack in the Zone
and Blackjack Blueprint: How to Operate a Blackjack Team. In November
2001, when Arnold asked me to write an updated version of The
Zone, he provided some great suggestions on areas to add and
expand on. He thought it would be brilliant if I could include his
Red Seven and Zen Count systems from his Blackbelt in Blackjack
book. Although Arnold left the publishing business prior to the
release of this second version of The Zone, his support and
encouragement during that time were key to its success. It was also
Arnold who recommended that I combine the texts of both these
works into a full-blast book, which is what you’re about to read.
Norm Wattenberger is the developer of Casino Vérité, the
number-one blackjack practice software. Norm is truly a brilliant
programmer. He’s also one of the easiest individuals to work with.
While completing my manuscript, I approached Norm and asked if
he’d be interested in developing a companion software product
specifically for this book. Without hesitation, he said, “Sure.” What
more can I say?
To two South Florida investors who were not afraid to take a
risk, I still say, “You guys are out of control,” but we’re still way
ahead as this book is going to print. When you read this book you’ll
know that I’ve kept my word not to reveal any specific locales.
Thanks for your respect, confidence, and making 2005 a profitable
year.
 Huntington Press Staff: Deke Castleman spearheaded the
nightmare of a project with the formatting of this book. Bethany
Coffey’s creative thinking helped move things in a new direction.
Laurie Cabot worked out the graphics and did a marvelous job of
layout and production.
Finally, my wife, “Mrs. Blaine,” who has not only put up with
me, but has been most supportive.
 

Contents

Introduction
The Zones

The Silver Zone

1 How I Got Started
2 The House Advantage
3 How the Game is Played
Rules of the Game
4 Basic Strategy
Sequence for Learning Basic Strategy

The Red Zone

5 Selecting a System
Three Factors in Determining the Power of Systems
Different Types of Systems
6 Learning to Count Cards with the PLS
Learn the Point Values of Each Card
Learning to Maintain a Running Count
Maintain Running Count as Cards are Dealt
Apply a Betting Strategy to the Running Count
7 True-Count Conversion
8 Learning Play Variations
Plus Counts
Minus Counts
9 Advanced Counts
Zen Count
Unbalanced Zen II Count
Converting to True Count Using Half-Deck Segments
Side Count of Aces
10 Putting It All Together
11 First Casino-Play Experience
Developing a Game Plan
 Ready to Play?

The Green Zone

12 Money Management
13 Interaction with Casino Personnel
Tipping
14 Heat, Casino Countermeasures, and Camouflage
How Much is too Much?
Who is this Person?
Use of Different Names
Obtaining a Casino Players Card
Moving Your Bets
Playing Your Hands
When You Start Winning
You Wanna Be in Movies?
Barring from Play
Surveillance Techniques
Countermeasures
The Typical Card Counter Profile
Camouflage
Disguising Wins and Hiding Chips
Cashing Out
15 Casinos and Personal Privacy
Your Driver’s License, Please
Identity Theft and Casinos
Profiling Through the Players Club
Casino Credit
Cash Transaction Report (CTR)
Suspicious Activity Report (SAR)
Be Informed

The Black Zone

16 Cheating
The Preferential Shuffle
17 Advantage Play: Some Gray and Not-So-Gray Areas
18 Tactics for Double-Deck Play
Summary
19 Backcounting
20 Blackjack and the Internet
Security Tips for Participating in Blackjack-Related Websites
21 Blackjack Tournaments
22 The Comp Game and Travel Strategies
The Allure
Airfare
Saving Money on Hotel Rooms
Complimentaries
Loss-Rebate Programs
Other Comps
Some Final Tips on Scoring Comps
23 Airline Travel Security
24 Blackjack Outside the U.S.
Foreign Currency Exchange (“FX”) 101
25 Basics of Zone Tracking
Identifying Segment Sizes
Learning Cut-Off Tracking
Learning Segment Location
Learning Multi-Segment Location
Summary
26 Location Play
Introductory Exercise
The Learning Process
How to Bet
Fine Points
Summary

The Purple Zone

27 Introduction to Team Play
Comparisions of Solo vs. Team Play
My First Team
28 Notes from a Team Diary
29 Getting to Know You
30 Team Leadership
Management
31 Methods of Player Compensation
Method A
Method B
Method C
Method D
Method E
Method F
 Player Bonuses
Method G
Penalties
32 Living with Losses
Some Reasons for Red Ink
33 Outline for a Team Manual
1. Confidential Nature of Contents
2. Establishment and Implementation of Team Policies
3. Manager’s Role
4. Membership
5. Testing
6. Procedures for Actual Team Play
7. Various Tactics That May Be Applied
8. Expenses
9. Safety And Security
10. Distribution of Winnings
11. Quality Control
34 Down Memory Lane

The End Zone

35 Assuming the Role of a High-Stakes Player
Attitude
Preparation, Homework, and Knowledge
Eye Contact
Attire
Appearance
Purpose
Summary
36 Playing Blackjack as a Part-Time Professional
Summary
37 Resources and Final Notes
Recommended Books
Periodicals
Software
Final Note
Glossary
About the Author
 

Introduction

Okay, here’s another book on blackjack. After reading most of the

books published on the game, playing for many years, and
providing group and private instruction, I finally decided to put
some ideas of my own together. People in the blackjack world tend
to evaluate, compare, and critique card-counting systems, software
programs, books, and theories as they encounter them. That’s good,
but it’s essential to always keep an open mind. If you read a book,
watch a training video, or take a lesson, you can glean at least one
solid principle out of the presentation. We never stop being students
of the game. Accordingly, there’s something within these pages that
can benefit players of all levels.
This book doesn’t contain any “new breakthroughs” in card-
counting systems. With several excellent systems already on the
market (some of the good ones are included in this book), there are
too many tough acts to follow. Rather, the differences in systems are
discussed, enabling aspiring counters to select one that’s suitable for
them. But just knowing how to count cards isn’t enough, and
beginning and experienced players alike will gain valuable insight
from the discussions of several important concepts and techniques
that must be mastered to be a successful blackjack player.
Before attempting to apply card-counting skills in live play, it’s
necessary to have a solid understanding of the fundamentals of the
game. Toward that end, this book covers such issues as:
• bankroll
• money management
• discipline
 • game selection
• attitude
• interaction with casino personnel
One of the highlights of this book is the introduction of the
Progressive Learning System (PLS), a technique that allows you to
learn any card-counting system on the market in the most efficient
and simplified manner.
If new to the game, after reading Blackjack Blueprint you will
know what it takes to become a successful blackjack player and
should be able to determine if playing in the manner that’s outlined
herein is for you. You’ll be able to:
• Determine if card counting is something you have the ability
and desire to do successfully.
• Select a card-counting system that works well for you.
• Master the PLS approach so you can learn the mechanics of
almost any card-counting system.
• Take the skills acquired from this book and strategically
apply them to live casino play.
As an existing player, Blackjack Blueprint will provide you with a
means to:
• Learn other advanced techniques in a progressive manner.
• Evaluate the pros and cons of team play.
• Gain or enhance knowledge about tactical approaches to
playing a winning game.

Here are a couple of quick pointers to facilitate the learning

process while reading the book:
• If you see a term and you’re unsure of its meaning, refer to
the Glossary in the back of the book. Cards with rank ten,
 jack, queen, or king are referred to in the book as “10s.”
• Don’t be afraid of running into complicated mathematics. The
goal is to present the material in a simple and clear manner.
Many of the tactics discussed in this book come from personal
experience in actual casino play.
The first question you need to ask yourself is: “Am I a gambler or
a disciplined player?” A gambler is an “action player” who relies on
luck and thrives on the excitement of casino play. Gamblers usually
aren’t winning players. A disciplined player is a calculating
individual who has the patience and ability to evaluate a game and
play only if the conditions appear favorable. Disciplined players can
walk through a casino, evaluate the games at hand, and walk out
without placing a bet if the conditions aren’t favorable. When they
bet, it’s in good situations and this translates into winning over time.
If you evaluate your own personality and determine that you’ve got
what it takes to be a disciplined player, you’ll benefit greatly from
this book. The goal of Blackjack Blueprint is to educate you about the
overall game, as well as the “games within the game.” I hope you’ll
find this presentation helpful and profitable.

The Zones
The book is broken down into six “zones.” As you progress
through each, you’ll enhance your knowledge of blackjack play.

The Silver Zone

After familiarizing yourself with the rules of the game of
blackjack, along with the house advantage, you’ll learn how playing
according to the proper basic strategy can minimize the casino’s
edge.
Covered in the Silver Zone are:
• the casino advantage at various games
 • how blackjack is played
• basic strategy

The Red Zone

Applying the outlined Progressive Learning System (PLS), you’ll
develop a foundation of the basic skills needed to identify
opportunities and play blackjack at an advantage.
Covered in the Red Zone are:
• selecting a card-counting system
• learning the fundamentals of card counting
• preparation for initial live casino play
• live casino play
• post-game evaluation

The Green Zone

Here, you’ll fine-tune your skills and develop more tactical
approaches to playing a winning game.
Covered in the Green Zone are:
• tactics necessary for betting at higher levels
• interaction with casino personnel
• money management
• avoiding detection

The Black Zone

Entering the Black Zone, you’ll prepare to play high-stakes
blackjack and add more to your arsenal, which is needed at this level
of play.
Covered in the Black Zone are:
• the Internet as a source of blackjack information
 • casino comps and travel strategies
• blackjack tournaments
• awareness of cheating
• zone tracking
• location play
• other advantage-play techniques

The Purple Zone

In the Purple Zone, you’re taken through the team-play
experience.
Covered in the Purple Zone are:
• recruiting players
• management
• training
• testing
• quality control
• security
• creating a team manual

The End Zone

Having reached the End Zone, you’re given some final pointers
to complete your blackjack education.
Covered in the End Zone are:
• high-roller strategies
• playing part-time
• recommended books and systems
 

The
Silver Zone
 

How I Got Started

In the late 1970s, I’d just finished college and moved back to the
New York City area. In the fashion of many my age, I landed a job
on Wall Street, along with an apartment in Manhattan (no BMW
though, and my hair was still a bit long). Soon I became friendly
with a neighbor whom I’ll call Pete. Pete, a former federal agent, was
wheelchair-bound. I used to talk to Pete for hours, as his stories
fascinated me. He’d been all over the world and he knew a lot about
surveillance, a topic that always amazed me. Pete had a part-time
nurse who stopped in twice a week. But he wanted to be self-
sufficient and did great on his own. I occasionally stopped by on my
way to the supermarket to see if Pete needed anything.
One day I found him sitting at the kitchen table with a huge stack
of playing cards and a few piles of paper clips. When I asked what
he was doing, he said that he was teaching himself how to count
cards to beat the casinos at blackjack. I paid him no mind and left.
For some time, though, it seemed that whenever I visited Pete, he
was involved in this routine.
Pete explained that card counting meant assigning a plus or
minus point value to each card. By doing so, a counter could
determine how to bet and play. Finally, after a few months of
practice, Pete told me he was ready to go to Atlantic City. I’d never
been there, nor to any casino, but I told him that if he wanted to go,
I’d take him on the bus. We decided to go on a Saturday morning.
 It was late spring 1981. The bus fare was $15 per person and they
gave us coupons good for $10 in coin upon arrival in Atlantic City.
The bus was loaded with older folks, all of them excited about the
trip. After a three-hour ride, we arrived at Bally’s Park Place around
noon. After we ate lunch, Pete asked me to take him to the blackjack
tables. The place was crowded, and maneuvering Pete’s wheelchair
was no easy task. Finally, Pete pointed to a table with some empty
spots and I took him over. He gave me the voucher for his roll of
coins (dollars) and said he’d be okay there for about an hour. I left
him and went to the slot machines with 20 silver dollars.
Observing the slot machine players, I quickly concluded that it
was some sort of religion for those folks, some of whom were
feeding coins into two or three different machines at a time. They
seemed to have unbelievable coordination in doing so. Finally, I
decided on a machine for myself, one next to an attractive young
lady who completely ignored me. I ended up winning a little over
$300 playing slots, then took a stroll around the rest of the casino.
I saw a roulette wheel, and after watching for a while, placed a $5
bet on red. I lost. On to the crap table, where lots of people were
hooting and hollering. I’d done a little homework on craps and
knew that when you rolled the dice, if you got a 7 or 11, you won,
and if you got a 2, 3, or 12 you lost. That was all I knew. I asked
someone to help me and ended up placing a $5 bet on the pass line.
The person rolling the dice rolled a 6 and it was explained to me that
now the shooter had to roll a 6 before rolling a 7 for me to win. I
scratched my head, confused, as the shooter rolled a 10. I didn’t even
want to ask what that meant. The next roll was a 7 and the dealer
collected my chip.
Next it was on to the blackjack tables. I stood by a table and
watched the game being dealt. At this point I knew only that the
object of the game was to get closer to 21 than the dealer, without
going over 21. I sat down and clumsily handed the dealer $50. He
instructed me to place the money on the table, so I put the $50 down
on the circle in front of my seat. The dealer asked if I wanted to bet
the $50. I shook my head no. I had no way of knowing that the cash
should not have been placed in the betting circle unless I wanted to
bet it all.
After instruction on how to get change the proper way, I had 10
red chips in front of me, each valued at $5. Two cards were dealt in
front of me and I reached to pick them up. “Please don’t handle the
cards, sir,” the dealer snapped at me. I apologized and proceeded to
play, quickly learning the proper hand signals for hit and stand. Still,
I noticed that the people at the table were upset with me. I couldn’t
figure out why, though I clearly remember friction over a hand on
which I had two 8s. I don’t recall what the dealer had showing, but a
loud-mouthed person sitting next to me said, “You’re gonna split
those, I hope.” I gave a puzzled look and said, “Split?” I ended up
standing on the 16. After the round, the loudmouth mumbled a few
choice words and left. I won $100 at that table. Then it was time for
me to check on Pete.
I walked over to his table and he asked me how I was doing. All
excited, I told him about winning $300 playing slots and $100
playing blackjack. He whispered that he was winning and wanted to
play some more. At this point we agreed that I’d check back with
him in another two hours. I quit while ahead and went off for a stroll
along the Boardwalk.
After the two hours, I returned to the casino to check on Pete and
I noticed that the pile of chips in front of him was smaller than when
I’d left. It was about 4:30 and Pete decided to call it a day. He asked
if I wanted to have dinner. I nodded. He showed me a slip of paper
and told me that dinner was free. Once again, I was puzzled. When
we got to the restaurant, Pete told me that I could order whatever I
wanted. He explained that after you gamble for a certain period of
time, the casinos give you free meals, tickets to shows, and free
rooms. My eyes widened. I was amazed that all you had to do was
gamble at the casinos and they would give you all these things for
free. Pete told me that many people lose lots of money getting those
free meals. As the saying goes: There’s no such thing as a free lunch.
Pete said that when I first checked in with him, he was winning, up
about $900. But when I returned two hours later, he’d lost all but $50
of his winnings. Dinner was great, then we hopped on the bus home.
Although I never went back to Atlantic City with Pete, he made
several trips down there over the next two years. I thought that
because he was counting cards, he should be able to win money.
Based on my talks with him, however, Pete seemed to lose more
than he won. But win or lose, it all seemed too complicated for me to
worry about.
In December 1983, Pete moved away, leaving me with a box of
books and some other odds and ends he thought I might find
interesting. After a couple of months, I finally had time to sort
through the box and found several decks of cards and a hardcover
book titled Million Dollar Blackjack. I noticed that it was autographed
by the author, Ken Uston. I decided to keep the book and the cards
and soon I began reading the book.
To this day, I still consider Million Dollar Blackjack to be one of the
most informative and entertaining books on the game ever written. I
read through that book chapter by chapter, stopping to practice the
drills as they were presented. I was on my way.
Throughout this book are more details of my experiences with
playing the game at various levels—for example, how I got involved
with blackjack teams and my journey of playing at high-stakes for
more than 20 years. At the time of this writing, I can still confidently
walk into a casino and play a winning game. I’ll end this chapter
with some notes from my diary of the final days of a recent play:

Thursday Night/Friday Morning

 My final plunge. Hit the tables at 11:15 p.m. and got a private
table in the VIP Room. During several wild sessions throughout the
evening and into the early-morning hours, I went from down
$50,000 to winning $22,900. Took $36,000 in my last shoe. Then
played Friday afternoon in one final session and won $12,500,
putting my trip total at $5,000. It was a long night/morning!

Friday Night/Saturday Morning

Decided to sleep a good deal of the day Friday, to squeeze in one
last play before leaving for home. This time I arrived as the VIP
Room opened for the evening and continued with the aggressive
style of play. I opened up the table, with no other players. After
three shoes, I was up $46,000, putting my overall trip total at $51,000.
A couple of other players joined the table, so I left. I’m done.
I’m glad to be going home, as the trip was a bit tiring. The swings
were wild and I’m pleased I ended up with a decent enough win.
 

The House Advantage

The gaming industry has been growing at a blistering pace over

the past few years. A number of states have legal casinos on
riverboats and on land. Casinos have also opened on Native
American land. People get a big thrill out of trying their luck at
gambling. In states that offer a lottery, check out the ticket lines
when the jackpot grows large.
Casinos are in business to make money on their “games of
chance,” so it should be no surprise that all casino games have a
built-in house advantage. Here’s an example of how the casino
makes its money with the house advantage.
In craps, the house advantage (on the best bets) is roughly 1.5%.
If 100 people each make one bet at $10 per bet, the total “action” is
$1,000. Considering the 1.5% disadvantage on that action, they will
lose, on average, about $15 on the play.
Following are the house advantages for a few other casino games
(approximate):

baccarat: 1.2 %
roulette: 5.3 %
slots: 3% and up
keno: 25%

What about the house advantage for blackjack? Let’s hold off on
providing numbers on this, because there are a lot of variables to
consider. While all other casino games are subject to what’s known
as the “law of independent trials,” the house advantage in the game
of blackjack is dependent on the cards that were previously dealt.
Each time a card is removed from a deck (or decks) in play, the odds
of the game at hand shift, and at times those odds shift to the
player’s advantage. This is the only casino game where the odds
shift in this manner. In all other games, the fixed house advantage
remains constant. For example, in craps it’s entirely possible to roll
10 sevens in a row, regardless of how many sevens were previously
rolled. Thus the saying, “dice have no memory.” On the roulette
wheel, the number 22 can hit two or three (or more) times in
succession.
Now let’s look at blackjack. In a game where a single deck is in
use, if on the first round dealt all four aces appear, the chance of
being dealt an ace in any subsequent round is zero. Since you need
an ace to get a natural, for which the house (usually) pays the player
3-2, your chance of getting a blackjack in any subsequent round is
also zero. In such cases, the house advantage increases. Considering
the reverse situation, if after a few rounds have been dealt no aces
have appeared and there’s less than a half-deck remaining, the
advantage is now (probably) in favor of the player. Card-counting
systems identify these situations and provide you with a tool for
adjusting your betting and playing decisions to make use of this
knowledge.
The material presented in this book will show you how it’s done,
and put you on the path to playing for profits.
 

How the Game is Played

The typical blackjack table has spots for seven players (though
some have only five or six), which can appear as circles or boxes,
sometimes with the word “BET” inside. The first seat on the right as
you face the dealer is referred to as “first base” and the last seat on
the left is known as “third base.”
Directly in front of the dealer is the “chip tray” (also called the
“check rack”), where casino chips are maintained for that table and
sorted in denomination order. The usual chip denominations are: $5
red chips, known as “nickels,” $25 green chips, known as “quarters,”
and $100 black chips. At the higher-limit tables, commonly found
denominations include $500 purple chips and $1,000 chips (colors
vary). Smaller denominations can also be found, such as $1 and $2.50
chips (colors vary). Actual half-dollar coins may be kept in the chip
tray as well.
As you look at the dealer, to the left is the discard tray, where the
dealer places cards after they’ve been used in each round.
Commonly, after shuffling a deck or decks, the dealer removes the
top card from play and places it in the discard tray. This is referred
to as the “burn card.” Behind the discard tray is a small clear box, in
which the dealer deposits all tips received. This is referred to as the
“toke box.” Next to the discard tray is a slot in the table where the
dealer deposits all currency received from players, whether to
purchase chips at the table or used in actual play. This is called the
“drop slot.” Money deposited in the drop slot falls into a locked box
called a “drop box.”
In games where 4 or more decks are used, a “shoe” is used. Upon
completion of the shuffle, the decks are placed into the shoe (a box-
like device), from which they’re dealt.
On either side of the dealer, there should be two separate
placards. One indicates the table minimum and maximum bets
permitted. The second indicates the important house rules for the
blackjack game at that particular table. You may also find a third
placard, indicating “No Smoking Allowed.”

Rules of the Game

The object of the game is to make a total higher than that of the
dealer without exceeding 21. When this happens, the player wins the
bet and an even-money (1-1) payoff. If the dealer gets the higher
total, the player’s bet is lost. In the event that both player and dealer
make the same total, it’s called a “push” (tie), and no settlement
occurs on that hand. Jacks, queens, and kings count as 10; aces are
either 1 or 11, at the player’s option; 2s through 10s are worth their
face value.
At the start of the game, the dealer shuffles the deck(s) to be
played. The cards are then presented to a player at the table to cut.
Single decks are often cut with the hand in the normal fashion.
When 2 or more decks are used, the player is given a plastic cut card
to insert at the desired cut point. The dealer then takes the cards
under the plastic cut card and places them on top on the pack,
leaving the plastic cut card on the bottom. If more than 2 decks are
being used (and in some casinos, also with 1 or 2 decks), a second
plastic cut card is placed by the dealer at a point in the pack. This is
referred to as a “shuffle card,” as its purpose is to signal the dealer
when it’s time to reshuffle.
 When 1 or 2 decks are used, the dealer usually holds them in one
hand and deals (“pitches”) with the other. When more than 2 decks
are used, the cards are placed in a shoe to be dealt (although it’s rare,
some casinos deal 1 or 2 decks from a shoe).
Play begins as the dealer places the burn card (or cards) in the
discard tray face down. Players place their wagers in the betting
circles directly in front of them. Going from the dealer’s left to right,
cards are dealt to each player, and one goes to the dealer. Then a
second card is dealt to each player and a second to the dealer. One
dealer card is face up, the “upcard,” and one dealer card is face
down, the “hole card.” Depending on the number of decks and
house rules, the player’s two cards are dealt either both face up or
both face down.
If the dealer’s upcard is an ace, the dealer asks the players if they
want “insurance.” Insurance is a side bet that the dealer’s hole card
is a 10, resulting in a dealer “natural” (or blackjack). A player may
bet up to half of his original wager on insurance and is paid at 2-1
odds if the dealer has a natural.
If the casino offers “early surrender” (rare), the player has the
option of forfeiting half the original wager before the dealer checks
for a natural. This is done by either saying “surrender” or by
drawing an imaginary line behind your bet with your finger, the
hand signal for surrender. In a face-down game, the player also flips
over both cards, placing them on the table face up.
After all players have decided whether or not to take insurance,
the dealer “peeks” at the hole card. If it’s a 10, the dealer flips it over
and pays all insurance bets at odds of 2-1. The dealer then picks up
each player’s original wager, including the ones from those who
won the insurance side bet. The exception is when a player also has
an ace and a 10 for a natural, in which case the dealer doesn’t take
the original wager, as the hand is a push. The dealer then picks up
all the remaining cards on the table, placing them into the discard
tray face down, and the hand is over. If the dealer doesn’t have a 10
in the hole, the insurance bets lose. The insurance money is picked
up and play continues. When a player’s first two cards dealt are an
ace and 10, that hand comprises a “natural” or a “blackjack.” The
traditional payout for a natural is 3-2 to the player. Recently, some
casinos have been experimenting with 6-5 payouts for naturals,
which adds significantly to the casino’s edge.
If the casino offers “late surrender,” players may forfeit half of
the original wager after the dealer checks for a natural, but before
playing the hand. The dealer collects half the wager, then finishes
play of the hand if other players are at the table and haven’t
surrendered.
Note: Most casinos also require the dealer to check for a natural
when the upcard is a 10. In this case, the dealer peeks immediately at
the hole card, and if it’s an ace, he flips it over and collects all
wagers, except if a player also has a natural. If the dealer doesn’t
have an ace, play resumes as normal.
Beginning with the player on the dealer’s left, each player is
asked (or prompted by pointing) how he wants to play his hand. In a
face-up game, if the player wants another card (“hit”), he signals by
tapping or scratching a finger on the table. If the player doesn’t want
another card (“stand”), he waves his hand, with palm facing down,
side to side above the bet. If, after taking a hit, the card total exceeds
21, the player “busts.” The dealer takes the bet and places the cards
in the discard tray. In a face-down game, the player picks up the
original two cards dealt and signals for a hit by gently scratching the
cards on the table. To signal a stand, the original two cards are
tucked under the wager. A player may continue to hit a hand until it
exceeds 21. When the player busts, the original two cards should be
tossed on the table, face up.
Players have the option to “double down” on the first two cards
dealt. The rules vary by casino; some permit a player to double on
any two cards, while others allow doubling only on two-card totals
of 10 or 11. To double down, place an amount equal to the original
wager next to it. In a face-up game, simply say “double down.” In a
face-down game, turn both cards face up and place them in front of
the original bet. When a player doubles down, only one additional
card is dealt to that hand. In a face-down game, the card is usually
dealt face down, while in a face-up game the card orientation varies.
If a player’s first two cards are of the same value, the pair may be
“split.” The player places an additional wager, equal to the original,
and says “split.” In a face-down game, the player turns both cards
over and places them in front of the original bet. Although most
dealers will know when you intend to double down or pair split,
they’ll usually ask if you don’t declare. When splitting pairs, the
player is actually separating the first hand and creating two hands,
each to be played in sequence in that same round. Each hand is
played separately, using the appropriate hit/stand signals as
indicated above.
After all players complete the play of their hands, the dealer
exposes the hole card and plays the hand according to set rules. The
dealer is required to hit on all hands totaling 16 or less and to stand
on hands totaling 17 or higher. In the case of a “soft hand” of 17,
such as an ace and a 6, rules vary by casino. Some require the dealer
to stand on a soft 17, while others require the dealer to hit. After the
dealer finishes drawing, all remaining wagers are settled. If the
dealer draws to a total above 21, all players who have not busted
first (or surrendered) win. If the dealer doesn’t bust, each player
wins, loses, or pushes depending on his total compared to the
dealer’s. The wagers are settled, then all cards are collected and
placed in the discard tray.
Players then place their wagers in the betting circle for the next
round of play and the process repeats.
 When the cut card is reached, the round in progress is completed
and the remaining undealt cards in the shoe are mixed with those in
the discard tray. The cards are reshuffled and the process starts over
again. In a hand-dealt game without a cut card, the cards are
shuffled at a point dictated by house policy or when the dealer feels
there may not be enough cards to complete another round.
 

Basic Strategy

Basic strategy is a set of optimal playing decisions based on the

player’s cards and the dealer’s upcard. Playing according to the
correct basic strategy for a specified number of decks and set of rules
provides the player with the best way to play any hand without the
benefit of additional information (such as the count of the deck).
Some basic strategy decisions vary based on the number of decks
and the rules in effect, but most decisions are consistent through all
blackjack games.
The basic strategy was developed by computer analysis and it’s
mathematically irrefutable. Whatever the computer has determined
as correct is the proper thing to do. It’s not always obvious. Let’s
look at a situation in which the player has a hand of T,6 and the
dealer is showing a ten (upcard). A hand of 16 against a dealer’s ten
is a losing situation, hit or stand. But it would seem that standing
would offer the most hope, since hitting a 16 will likely result in
drawing a high card and busting. That’s how I used to think. But
basic strategy tells us to hit the 16. The reason? The computer runs
show that the player will lose more hands of 16 by standing than by
hitting. That’s all you need to know. Choosing to stand rather than
hit will cost you money. It’s that simple.
For this reason, once you learn basic strategy, it’s essential that
you adhere strictly to the play decisions as outlined. You must play
like a machine. No hunches. At times, a dealer or other players may
criticize your play. You must have nerves of steel and zone out these
outside influences. By playing perfect basic strategy, you’re
decreasing a house advantage of more than 2% (the casino’s edge
against the average player) to less than .5%, subject to the rules of
the game you’re playing.
At times you’ll play basic strategy perfectly and lose hand after
hand. When this happens, you must zone it out, because in the long
run, making the correct basic strategy plays is to your advantage.
You must learn to play basic strategy flawlessly, as any deviations
from the proper plays cost you money over time.
To apply basic strategy effectively, you must remember the
distinction between a hard hand and a soft hand. A hard-hand total
can’t be lowered by counting the ace as 1. For example, a hand of
A,2,4, is a soft 17, because it can be lowered by counting the ace as 1
to get a hand of 7. A hand of A,2,4,T is a hard 17. It can’t be lowered,
since the ace is already counted as 1.
Following is the basic strategy for a typical multi-deck game, as
offered in a number of Las Vegas and Atlantic City casinos.

Hit/Stand Decisions on Hard-Total Hands

• Stand on all hard totals of 17 and higher.
• When the dealer is showing an upcard of 7, 8, 9, T, A, hit all
hands until your cards total 17 or higher.
• Stand on hard totals of 13, 14, 15, 16 vs. dealer upcard of 2, 3,
4, 5, 6; otherwise hit.
• Stand on hard total of 12 vs. dealer upcard of 4, 5, 6; otherwise
hit.
The above decisions occur more than others throughout the
game.

Double Down Decisions on Hard-Total Hands

 • Double down on all hard totals of 11 vs. dealer upcard of 2, 3,
4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, T; otherwise hit.
• Double down on all hard totals of 10 vs. dealer upcard of 2, 3,
4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9; otherwise hit.
• Double down on all hard totals of 9 vs. dealer upcard of 3, 4,
5, 6; otherwise hit.

Pair Splitting
• Always split A,A or 8,8.
• Never split T,T or 5,5.
• Split 2,2; 3,3; and 7,7 vs. dealer upcard of 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7;
otherwise hit.
• Split 4,4 vs. dealer upcard of 5 or 6, otherwise hit.
• Split 6,6 vs. dealer upcard of 2, 3, 4, 5, 6; otherwise hit.
• Split 9,9 vs. dealer upcard of 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 9 (not 7); otherwise
stand.

Double Down Decisions on Soft-Hand Totals

• Double down on A,2 or A,3 vs. dealer upcard of 5 or 6;
otherwise hit.
• Double down on A,4 or A,5 vs. dealer upcard of 4, 5, 6;
otherwise hit.
• Double down on A,6 or A,7 vs. dealer upcard of 3, 4, 5, 6;
otherwise hit (except stand with an A,7 vs. dealer upcard of 2,
7, or 8).

The player is permitted to double down only only on the initial

two cards. There are some rare occasions where a casino permits
doubling after one or two hit cards are dealt. The basic strategy for
these special rules is different.

Never Take Insurance

 Basic Strategy Multi-Deck, Atlantic City Rules

If late surrender option is offered:

• Surrender a hard 16 (but not 8,8) vs. dealer 9, T, or A.
• Surrender a hard 15 vs. dealer T.
Remember, different rules and numbers of decks result in
different basic strategies. For complete coverage of proper basic
strategies for different games, consult The Theory of Blackjack by Peter
Griffin or Blackjack Attack 3 by Don Schlesinger.

Sequence for Learning Basic Strategy

1. Start with the basic hard hit/stand decisions.
2. Learn the hard doubling decisions.
3. Learn the soft doubling decisions
4. Learn pair splitting decisions.
5. Take each quiz in the order presented. The specified order
will simplify the learning process.
6. Deal yourself hands with only an upcard for the dealer and
check your decisions.
7. Repeat #5 and #6 as described below.

Additional Practice Drills

Refer to the flash-card sample and use it as a guide to create a set
by pasting them onto cardboard and cutting to size. Write in the
player total, dealer upcard, and play decision. Drill yourself, using
your thumb to cover the answer on the bottom right corner of each
flash card before checking for the correct response. Use the flash
cards, first in order of each segment of basic strategy (e.g., use only
the hit/stand cards after studying the hit/stand decisions, then use
only the hard-doubling flash cards after studying that segment, and
so on). After you’ve learned all the segments of basic strategy, you
can mix all the flash cards together for final drills in random order.
You can augment study with CV Blueprint, this book’s companion
software, which contains drills for practicing basic strategy.
Drill Instructions
Make several copies of the following drill sheets. Perform each
drill until you can complete it accurately, recalling each response
without hesitation. Then move on to the next drill.

Drill # 1: Hard Totals Hit/Stand

Drill # 2: Hard Double-Down Decisions
Drill # 3: Soft Double-Down Decisions
Drill # 4: Pair-Splitting Decisions
Answers to Drill # 1
Answers to Drill # 2
Answers to Drill # 3
Answers to Drill # 4
 

The
Red Zone
 

Selecting a System

Once you’ve mastered basic strategy and reduced the house

advantage to less than .5% in many accessible games, you’re ready to
progress to card counting. Mastering this skill can provide you with
the tools to identify the shifting advantage between the house and
the player during blackjack play. Before exploring the types of card-
counting systems available, there are two crucial personal factors
you must consider.
Your Abilities—There’s story after story about prospective card
counters in search of the ultimate system. Finally, one of the many
complicated systems on the market is chosen. The player learns the
system. Then, while using it in live play, he wonders why it’s not
working. So often, beginners take on the heavy task of trying to learn
a “genius-level” system, one that significantly increases the potential
for errors that wind up costing them money. There’s no shame in not
being able to apply such a system in live play—very few players can.
The good news is you don’t have to. The difference in
performance between the least and most complicated of the credible
card-counting systems is fractions of a penny per hand, or even per
dozens of hands (though high-stakes players will point out that even
tiny percentage gains can have a discernible impact on returns as
stakes rise). Put your ego and pride on the shelf and choose the
system that’s easiest for you to handle, not the one with the most
bells and whistles. Remember, it’s more profitable to play a weaker
system accurately than to play a powerful system inaccurately.
 Your Stamina—Let’s say you have the ability to learn a genius-
level system flawlessly. You must next determine how long you can
accurately apply such a system in live play before your brain turns
to mush. Many players using a higher-level system find that after 30
minutes or so, they can’t continue playing accurately. Using a
simpler system often allows you to last longer at a table.
The above two points have little to do with win rates or
mathematical formulas, but in my opinion, they rank as the most
important to consider before going forward. That’s because the
actual application of a card-counting system has more to do with
psychology than mathematics. While most books on the topic beat
the mathematics to death, my approach is to consider first the
psychological dynamics and provide a practical and uncomplicated
approach to applying a good system at the tables.

Three Factors in Determining the Power of Systems

Betting Efficiency
One of the primary principles of card counting is to bet more
when you have an advantage and to bet less when you don’t. Any
good system’s key component is a point count. The betting efficiency
of a system is measured by how its point count identifies the shift in
advantage and quantifies it. The betting efficiency indicates how
well a given count does this. A system with a strong betting
efficiency is the foundation for the development of an effective
betting scheme.

Playing Efficiency
Another benefit provided by a card-counting system is properly
identifying times when it’s correct to deviate from basic strategy.
Playing efficiency indicates how well a system identifies the
deviation opportunities.
 Let’s look at an example that’s unlikely to occur, but is a good
illustration of the concept. You’re playing “heads-up” on a single-
deck game in which the dealer is dealing down to the last card. You
have two tens and the dealer’s upcard is a 7. Two cards remain to be
dealt and you haven’t seen any aces yet. Counting the burn card, the
dealer’s hole card, and the two undealt cards, you know where the
four aces have to be. The dealer, showing a 7 with an ace hole card,
will end up with a hand of 18. Knowing there are two aces waiting
to be dealt, what would you do? Of course, you’d split the tens,
which would result in your drawing both aces for two hands of 21.
Don’t get too excited; the Fantasy Island Casino has been closed
for many years. But this extreme example shows what the
information you glean from counting cards can potentially do for
your game. A more likely manifestation is standing on a 16 when the
dealer shows a ten (as opposed to the basic-strategy play of hitting),
because the count tells you there’s an excess of high cards remaining.
A system’s playing efficiency can be measured mathematically to
determine how well the system identifies the proper basic-strategy-
deviation opportunities.

Insurance Efficiency
Basic strategy dictates that a player should never take insurance.
When counting cards, however, a player will sometimes make the
insurance bet. A good system provides an accurate gauge for when
taking insurance is advantageous.

Different Types of Systems

Following are several variations of card-counting systems.

X-Level Systems
Count systems assign a “point value” to each card denomination.
The easiest systems are one-level counts, whose card values are
limited to -1, 0, and +1. A two-level count can have values of -2, -1, 0,
+1, and +2. A three-level count can have values of -3, -2, -1, 0, +1, +2,
and +3. Higher levels are also available.
As you go up in the levels, it’s possible to gain more power if the
system is applied correctly. However, the increased complexity
makes it more difficult to play without errors, and there are
diminishing returns; that is, after a while, adding higher levels
simply is not worthwhile.

Balanced Counts
In a “balanced-count system,” the total of the plus-card values is
equal to that of the minus-card values. With balanced systems,
starting at 0 and counting down a deck (adding and subtracting the
proper plus and minus point values as the cards are turned) leaves
you back at 0 at the end of the deck. Most count systems are
balanced.

Unbalanced Counts
In an “unbalanced-count system,” the total of the plus-card
values is not equal to that of the minus-card values. With
unbalanced systems, counting down a deck from a prescribed
starting number (an unbalanced count typically doesn’t start from
zero) leaves you at a different number when you finish.

Running Count
The “running count” is the cumulative count of the cards—
according to their assigned values of plus, minus, or neutral (0)—at
any given point as you’re counting down a deck. Example: Assume
that tens are assigned a point value of -1 and two players at a table
both have 20s made up of two tens each. The dealer shows a ten and
turns up another ten. Using a balanced count and beginning from
the top of the deck with a starting count of 0, the running count is -6
at the end of this round. This is determined by the six cards dealt
each having a point value of -1. On the next round, the count begins
at -6.

True Count
The “true count” is an additional measure that enables a player
to gain more power from a system. The true count is derived by
dividing the running count by the number of decks or half-decks
(depending on the system) remaining to be dealt. The resulting
number is used to derive the proper bet, play, and insurance
decisions. Example: In a 6-deck game, the running count is +12. You
look at the discard tray and determine that 3 decks have already
been dealt. Therefore, 3 decks remain. Dividing a running count of
+12 by 3, we establish our true count of +4.
Note that an unbalanced-count system eliminates the need for
true-count conversion, because all decisions are made according to
the running count.
At this point, you may have concluded that the most difficult
count system would be a multi-level balanced count, where true-
count conversion is required. Not so fast.

Side Count of Aces

In systems where the aces are neutral (assigned a value of 0), a
player must maintain a separate side count of aces and make an
additional adjustment to properly determine the betting amount.
These counts are called “ace neutralized.” A count that assigns a
point value other than 0 to the ace does not normally require such a
side count and is called “ace reckoned.”

Play Variations
The final ingredient of a count system is the number of play
variations from basic strategy it includes. There’s quite a range
among systems, based on what the author chooses to include—some
have only a few variations, while others have more than 100. Of
course, the more complex, the more difficult to learn and the more
chance of error in live application. There are roughly 20 key play
variations (covered later in the book) that a player needs to
memorize. You can attempt to apply more variations, but the overall
gain is usually minimal.

What Do You Do?

For most players, an unbalanced one-level system with
approximately 20 play variations is all that’s needed. Such a system
yields a playing advantage, is easy to learn, and allows longer
effective application in live play. Examples of such a count are the
Knock-Out and the Red 7 counts. If you want more firepower in a
system and are confident in your abilities, you can try a more
challenging count system, including any of these:
• Unbalanced 2-level count, such as the Unbalanced Zen II.
• Unbalanced 3-level count, such as the Uston SS.
• Balanced 1-level count with true-count conversion, such as
the Hi-Lo.
• Balanced 2-level count with true-count conversion, such as
the Zen Count.
• Balanced 3-level count with true-count conversion, such as
the Uston APC.
 

Learning to Count Cards with the

PLS

It’s not my intention to pitch any specific card-counting system,

as just about every one published is mathematically sound. The
information in this chapter should give you the tools to decide what
type of system is best suited for you. For our purposes here, we’ll
begin by using a balanced one-level count. Please note that the
learning progressions outlined in this chapter can be applied to just
about any counting system. This systematic method of learning is
called the Progressive Learning System (PLS).
It starts off with a simple-level card-counting system, with the
flexibility to add components later should more power be desired.
Using the PLS, you don’t need to completely switch count systems
and relearn an entire set of numbers to get more power. The system
we’ll be learning below is based on the point values from the Hi-Lo
count system, which is presented in Stanford Wong’s book
Professional Blackjack.

1-Level Balanced Count

At the completion of this level, you’ll be able to maintain a
running count and vary your bets accordingly, allowing you to gain
a slight edge in a blackjack game.

Learn the Point Values of Each Card

 Get a deck of cards and take out one card of each value, 2
through ace. Place the cards in a stack corresponding to the
following chart.

Drill Number One

With the cards in the sequence as outlined, flip through each of
the 13 cards reciting the point value of each card as you encounter it.
Repeat this drill until you can flip through the cards reciting their
values accurately and without hesitation.
Tip: You may find it easier to organize the cards by grouping the
plus values, the minus values, and then the 0-value cards.

Drill Number Two

Shuffle the 13 cards. Flip though the shuffled cards, reciting the
point value of each one as you encounter it. Continue practicing
until you’re fast and accurate.

Drill Number Three

Mix the 13 cards back into the full deck and shuffle it. Now flip
through the entire deck of 52 cards, reciting the point value of each
card as you go. When you can flip through the deck of 52 cards
reciting the point values quickly and accurately, you’re ready to go
to the next progression.

Learning to Maintain a Running Count

Now you’ll learn to keep a cumulative count total (the running
count) based on the plus/minus/neutral point values while flipping
through the cards in a deck.

Drill Number Four

Take the deck of 52 cards and using the memorized point values,
follow this sequence:
Say “zero,” and flip over the first card.
Say [the point value of that card], then say, “The running count is
(point value of that first card).”
Flip over the second card, say [the point value of that card], then
add or subtract it to the previous running count, determine your
new running count, and say, “The running count is (#).”
Continue through the deck. After completing all 52 cards, your
running count should be zero, as this is a balanced count. If you
don’t wind up at zero, count the deck again (with the cards in the
same order as previously counted).

Drill Number Five

Same exercise as above, with the following modifications:
 Say “Zero.”
Flip over the first card and mentally determine its value. Then
verbally say your running count.
Flip over the second card, mentally add it to or subtract it from
your running count, and say your new running count.
At this point, when completing your countdown, you should be
arriving at zero with consistency. Remember, if you’re not at zero,
repeat the countdown in the same order. Why? If an isolated
sequence of numbers is throwing you off, the best way to correct it is
through repetition. If you’re going through that deck a little faster,
that’s good. The more you practice, the more your speed will pick
up. Ready to go faster?

Drill Number Six

To develop speed in counting down a deck, once you’re accurate
and fast in counting the cards one at a time, you can learn to train
your brain to “group” the cards, counting them two at a time.
Take 10 cards valued at +1 and place them face down, lined up
on the table.
Now take 10 cards valued at -1 and place each card atop a +1
valued card, leaving 10 little stacks of two cards each.
Starting with zero, flip the first pair of cards and mentally
determine that the +1 and -1 offset each other to add up to zero.
Finish flipping over the subsequent pairs, mentally determining
that they offset to keep the running count at zero.
Now add 10 cards valued at 0 to this group and mix up all 30
cards. You should have different combinations of pairs adding to -2,
-1, 0, +1, and +2.
Finally, count down the entire deck of 52 cards, keeping the
running count by counting in pairs.
 To ensure accuracy, pull one card from the deck. Place it face
down without looking at it. After completing the countdown of the
51 cards, you probably won’t be at zero, and should be able to
determine the point value of the card you pulled. For example, if the
running count is +1, the remaining card should be either a ten, jack,
queen, king or ace (a -1 point value card). If the count is zero, the
unseen card should have a value of zero—a 7, 8, or 9.
You want to aim for counting down a deck in 25 seconds or less.
Be patient, though. Speed comes eventually. In the beginning,
accuracy is much more important. If you’re not accurate, the count is
of no value.

Some Tips for Gaining Speed

In plus counts, get in the habit of not saying the word “plus.”
In minus counts, say “M” instead of the word “minus.”
When counting down a deck, face the cards toward you and
transfer them from one hand to the other as you count, instead of
flipping over the cards.
At a zero count, say “Z” instead of zero.
Using these little tricks, you can shave a few seconds off your
time.

Maintain Running Count as Cards are Dealt

Cards Dealt Face Up
Because the cards are exposed as the dealer distributes them, this
is the simplest method of maintaining the count. Here’s the
sequence:
Starting at the dealer’s left, one card is dealt to each player and
one card is dealt face up to the dealer. Do nothing.
As the dealer is about to deal the second card to player #1, your
eyes should be focused (subtly) on the spot where that second card
will be exposed.
As the card is dealt, look at the pair of cards and silently recite
the running count.
Continue as above, as each second card is dealt to the other
players, by looking at each pair of cards.
When the dealer takes a hole card, look at the value of the upcard
and add that to your running count.
As you and the other players take additional hit cards, add those
values to your running count.
When the dealer reveals the hole card, add that value to your
running count.
If the dealer takes additional hit cards, add those values to your
running count as they are turned up. Don’t get confused by the
position of the cards in the dealer’s hand. You already counted the
upcard. Watch as the hole card is revealed next (usually to your
right, or the dealer’s left, of the hole card). Then add any hit cards
drawn (usually to the dealer’s right, and your left, of the hole card).
After the round is completed, your running count will be used to
determine your bet size for the next round.

Cards Dealt Face Down

In single- and double-deck hand-held games, players’ cards are
normally dealt face down. Here’s the sequence to maintain the
running count.
Starting at the dealer’s left, one card is dealt to each player, and
one card is dealt face up to the dealer. Do nothing.
In the same order, the dealer will deal a second card face down to
each player. At this point your hand should be on the table, and as
your second card is dealt, quickly pick up and look at both cards,
then silently determine the running count.
 As the dealer takes a hole card, check the value of the up-card
and add that to your running count.
As you and the other players take additional hit cards, add those
values to your running count.
If a player busts, splits, doubles down, or has a blackjack, add the
value of those exposed cards to your running count.
As the dealer exposes the hole card, add that value to your
running count.
If the dealer takes additional hit cards, add those values as they
are exposed, to your running count.
As the dealer turns over a player’s previously unexposed cards to
settle the hand, add those values to your running count. As these
cards are flipped over, they’ll be positioned on the table as the two
closest cards to the dealer in any given player’s hand.
After the round is completed, your running count will be used to
determine your bet size for the next round. Be especially careful and
alert when the dealer has a blackjack. At this moment, all the players
toss their cards on the table. They’re not always neatly arranged.
You have to be quick here!

Apply a Betting Strategy to the Running Count

One benefit of card counting is the ability to identify moments in
the game when the composition of cards remaining to be dealt is
either favorable to the player (a plus running count) or favorable to
the casino (a minus running count). Armed with this information,
the card-counting player will bet as little as possible in a minus
count and raise that amount as the count turns plus. As illustrated in
the point values of the cards, 2 through 6 are plus-value cards,
meaning that since they’re valuable to the casino, after they’re dealt
(and are no longer available for play), the running count improves in
the player’s favor. Aces and tens have a minus value. These are of
value to the player and when dealt, they reduce the running count,
which reflects a player’s disadvantage.
Presented here are betting strategies for a 6-deck game dealt face
up and a 2-deck game dealt face down. Determine which type of
game you’ll be playing most of the time. If you live or play in Las
Vegas, you have access to 2-deck games. If you live or play in
Atlantic City, the choices are 6- and 8-deck games. Become proficient
in one type of game.
The following two betting strategies are for the benefit of readers
who feel they have absorbed all the information they can handle.
Varying your bets as outlined and playing basic strategy provides a
very slight edge. However, to appreciate the real strength of a
balanced count system, a player should add the ingredients of the
true-count conversion and attending play variations (outlined in
Chapters 7 and 8, respectively).

Betting Strategy for a 2-Deck Game Dealt Face Down

To provide the best possibilities for profit, while at the same time
not being too obvious with bet movements, we use a bet range for
the 2-deck game of 1-6 units. If you’re playing at a $5-minimum-bet
table, your lowest bet in a minus count will be $5 (1 unit) and your
highest bet in a plus count will be $30 (6 units). Note that the
numerical value of the running count at the end of a round is used to
determine the bet on the round about to be dealt. The numbers:

Referring to the above numbers, perform the following drills:

 Drill Number Seven—For this drill, you need two decks of cards
and either plastic poker chips or a box of paper clips (to use instead
of chips).
Place a bet of 1 unit in front of you.
Take the top card of the two decks and place it face down off to
your left side. This card represents the burn card and you’ll place all
cards from completed rounds on top of this card, face down. This
stack represents the discard tray.
Deal yourself a hand of two cards face down, plus one card face
down and one face up for the dealer.
Starting at 0, count the value of your two cards, along with the
dealer’s upcard.
Using basic strategy, either hit, stand, split, or double down and
count the value of any additional cards you deal to yourself.
Flip over the dealer’s hole card and count the value of that card.
In accordance with standard house rules (dealer stands on totals
of 17 or higher and draws on totals of 16 or lower), deal required hit
cards for the dealer and count the value of each card as revealed.
You now have the running count to determine the number of
units to bet for the next round.
It is not necessary to perform actual payoffs on wins/losses, as
this exercise is strictly for determining bet size in accordance with
running count.
Deal subsequent rounds following the above steps until you run
out of cards. At that point, stop and determine the running count
right there. Based on that number, you should be able to figure out
the value of the burn card, which is the only card not included in the
running count. If the running count is -1, then the burn card should
be a +1 value card, bringing you to 0.
Shuffle and repeat the above procedure.
 Drill Number Eight—Perform the same steps as in drill number
seven, except deal hands to two players.
After performing the exercise with two players a few times, add a
third player and continue until you’re comfortable maintaining a
running count and placing your bets with a full table of seven
players.
Note: In live play, you should avoid playing at full tables at all
costs. This is strictly an exercise to strengthen your ability to scan
cards on a table.

Betting Strategy for a 6-Deck Game Dealt Face Up

A wider bet range is necessary for the 6-deck game. (When
applying a count system at full potential as outlined in Chapters 7
and 8, a recommended betting range of 1-12 units can provide good
possibilities for profit.) Here, we’ll use a betting range of 1-6 units. If
playing at a $5-minimum-bet table, your lowest bet in a minus count
is $5 (1 unit) and your highest bet in a plus count is $30 (6 units).
Remember, use the value of the count at the end of a round to
determine how much to bet on the next round. The numbers:

Be aware that applying this betting scheme throughout an entire

6-deck shoe is very aggressive. A player should not use such an
aggressive betting scheme unless well capitalized. It’s highly
recommended that you read on and learn either the 1-level
unbalanced count presented later in this chapter or the true-count
conversion from Chapter 7.
 Using these numbers, perform the drills number nine and ten,
which are the same as drills seven and eight above, except for the
betting units. If someone can deal to you, it’s easier to perform these
drills.
Once you’ve mastered these skills, you can use them as learned
up to this point, while playing at a very small advantage (based on
computer simulations for 2-deck and 6-deck games using Karel
Janecek’s Statistical Blackjack Analyzer, or SBA. However, it’s not
recommended that you use this system without completing the next
two chapters, where true counts and play variations are discussed.
These factors are necessary to gain full benefit from a balanced count
system. If, upon completing the next chapter, you find it difficult to
perform the true-count conversions, consider learning a 1-level
unbalanced count.

1-Level Unbalanced Count

Outlined in this section are the point values for a 1-level
unbalanced count. One benefit of an unbalanced count is the gain of
some power, without having to convert to a true count. This
provides more ease in applying the system. The difference in an
unbalanced count versus a balanced count is that you may start your
count with a number, plus or minus, other than 0, and you will
always end on a different number—thus, the unbalanced effect.
The most popular unbalanced count is the K-O Count, detailed in
the book Knock-Out Blackjack by Olaf Vancura and Ken Fuchs. You
can use all the previous drills and betting schedules to learn K-O.
However, instead of starting your count at 0, you use the equation 4
- (4 x number of decks) to derive the count’s starting point. In a 2-deck
game, for example, your starting count is -4. In a 6-deck game, start
at -20. In all cases, counting down the deck(s) results in an ending
number of +4.
 To move into a simple transition from the 1-level balanced count
you just worked with, we apply the same point values (as shown
above), except that 7s are also counted +1. In the same manner as
with the balanced Hi-Lo, keep a running count as the cards are
played.

Following is a recommended bet sequence for a 2-deck game

using the K-O unbalanced count.
 On the following page is a recommended bet sequence for a 6-
deck game using the K-O unbalanced count. Note that the
unbalanced counting technique results in raised bets being made
while the count is still in negative territory. Have no fear, the count
has been calibrated so that the numbers accurately correlate to the
recommended bet amounts.

Of course, there’s more to the count system than this. K-O comes
with multiple levels of sophistication and incorporates play
variations that will enhance the count’s success. All are available in
Knock-Out Blackjack.
 

True-Count Conversion

Take a situation in a single-deck game where two 4s, four 5s, and
two 6s are dealt in the first round. The running count is +8. This is a
significant advantage for the player, justifying a large bet on the next
round. However, if this occurs in the first round dealt from a 6-deck
game, the advantage differs. Since there are 5½ more decks left in
the shoe containing so many unseen cards, you don’t get as accurate
an indication of the advantage as in a single-deck game.
How do you obtain a more accurate indication of advantage with
a balanced count in multi-deck games? You perform the true-count
conversion. In order to do so, you first establish the running count.
Then by glancing at the discard tray, you estimate how many decks
have been played. You then subtract that number from the total
number of decks used, which determines the number of decks
remaining to be played. Finally, you divide the running count by the
number of decks remaining to arrive at the true count. Think it takes
forever to do all this? Well, the process can be confusing, but if you
program your thinking properly, the calculation falls right into place
every time.
Note: Some count systems provide for using half-deck segments
as a divisor for the true-count conversion, which is presented later
on.
Let’s use an example of conversion by full-deck segments, which
is the simplest of the methods. Let’s also use the point values for the
Hi-Lo Balanced Count as outlined in Chapter 6.
 Converting to True Count Using Full-Deck Segments
Example—In a 6-deck game, you have a running count of +6.
Glancing at the discard tray, you note 4 decks already played.
Since the entire shoe began with 6 decks, you note that there are 2
decks remaining to be played.
Dividing the running count (+6) by the number of decks
remaining (2), you arrive at a true count of +3.
Note: When you perform a true-count conversion and arrive at a
fraction, for the sake of being on the conservative side, round the
count down to the nearest whole number.

Conversion Chart for 6-Deck Game

Drill Number One

Get a few dozen decks of used casino cards. It’s important to get
the same cards used in the casinos, so the deck thickness is exact.

You can make up flash cards to drill yourself for each number of
decks used.
Flash Card Samples for 6-Deck Game

Deck Dealt—1 Decks Dealt—3 Decks Dealt—2

Decks Remaining—5 Decks Remaining—3 Decks Remaining—4
Divisor—5 Divisor—3 Divisor—4

Take 15 decks. Place a rubber band around 1 deck, with a slip of

paper that says “1 deck.” Do the same with 2, 3, 4, and 5 decks.
 Practice looking at the piles to determine sizes. Position the piles
on the table at the same distance and angle from you that they’d be
in a casino. Do this until you’re confident that you have mastered
the technique of eyeballing the discard tray.

Drill Number Two

Take 6 more decks and shuffle them together.
Start counting down the decks for a running count and stop at
random. Quickly look at the discards and state out loud how many
decks are there, then how many decks remain to be dealt. To check
yourself for accuracy, hold the discard pile against a pile used in
drill number one. Repeat this step several times: Stop at random,
determine the number of decks remaining, then start over.
Next, repeat the above exercise, but after determining the
number of decks remaining, calculate the true count.
Your thought flow should be running count = __, number of
decks played = __, decks remaining = __, and when you divide the
running count of__ by __ decks remaining, the true count = __. Keep
doing this until you’re comfortable.
Finally, repeat the above, but instead of starting over, continue
counting down the deck, maintaining the running count. Stop again
at random, using the new running count and the number of decks
played/remaining to determine the new true count. Perform two or
three true-count conversions during the countdown of decks. It’s
important to retain the running count number through the whole
countdown, so you can continue where you left off to do the true-
count calculations.

Drill Number Three

Using the conversion numbers for a 6-deck game (see here),
based on the information in the two columns provided in this drill,
calculate the true count, writing it in the third column next to each
item. Answers to drill number three can be found below.
Example: The running count is +12, and the number of decks
played is 3. With 3 decks played, 3 decks remain, giving a divisor of
3. Dividing 12 by 3, the true count is +4.

Thinking Sequence for Establishing True Count

• Establish and retain running count.
• Look at discard tray and determine # of decks dealt.
• Determine # of decks remaining, which establishes your divisor number.
• Divide running count by divisor to establish true count.

True Count Betting Strategy for a 2-Deck Game

 True Count Betting Strategy for a 6-Deck Game

Answers to Drill Number Three

 

Learning Play Variations

Another benefit of card counting is using the knowledge of the

cards remaining in the deck(s) to determine how to play your hand.
While traditional basic strategy is the most advantageous method of
play for the non-counting player, there are times when the count will
dictate a deviation from the basic strategy play.

Plus Counts
The first and most crucial deviation from basic strategy is
insurance. Although the basic strategy player will never exercise the
insurance option, there are times (in a plus count) when taking
insurance is the more advantageous play. With a high plus count,
there are probably more tens than normal remaining in the deck(s),
increasing the dealer’s chance of receiving a natural.
A common variation in plus counts is that of standing on stiff
hands, such as 16 vs. ten or 15 vs. ten. In plus counts, the player has
identified that more tens remain to be dealt. Therefore, if you hit a
stiff hand of 15 vs. ten, you would be more likely to draw a ten as
the hit card, and bust. Here a counting player might deviate from
basic strategy and stand.
In plus counts, a player would double down and split pairs more
aggressively. Two such variations are to double down on a hand of 9
vs. 7, and split a pair of tens vs. dealer’s 5 or 6. Yes, you read that
correctly. At certain points in a plus count, the advantageous play is
to split tens and elicit selective comments from the other people at
the table. The reason for these plays is that you have identified more
tens remaining in the deck(s), which may cause the dealer to bust.
For this reason, it’s beneficial to get more money out on the table by
using the double down and pair split options more aggressively.
In minus counts, a player is more likely to hit stiff hands such as
12 vs. 4, or 13 vs. 2. In this instance, the counting player has
identified that more low-value cards remain in the deck(s). Taking a
hit instead of making the basic strategy play of standing, the player
would have a better opportunity to improve the stiff hand and create
a pat hand.

Minus Counts
Here, a player is less likely to double down. In extreme minus
counts, the counting player will deviate from the basic strategy play
of the double down on 11 vs. ten, taking instead a hit card or cards.
In this case, the indication from the count is that more low-value
cards remain in the deck(s). By limiting oneself to drawing only one
additional card on the double-down option, there’s an increased
chance that this one card will be low in value, so it’s preferable to
pass on the double-down option and take as many hit cards as
necessary.
Since different forms of counting methods are outlined in this
book, the play variations differ for each and you will have to learn
them from the sources that have been recommended here.
If you’re satisfied using a simple running count with the point
values of the Hi-Lo count system outlined in Chapter 6, you may use
the method presented as a running-count-only system, without play
variations. This calls for playing a strict basic strategy and varying
your bets according to the running count. All count systems,
however, will be more powerful if the proper play variations are
learned and applied. To demonstrate, play variations for the Hi-Lo
are provided here (remember, variations are different for different
counts; do not use these variations with a count other than the Hi-
Lo).

Play Variations for Hi-Lo 1-Level Balanced Count w/True-

Count Conversion Multi-Deck

These play variations for the Hi-Lo Count, known as the

“Illustrious 18,” are recommended by Don Schlesinger as outlined in
his book Blackjack Attack: Playing the Pros’ Way.

Instructions—Make several copies of the following drill sheets

and perform each drill, writing in the count at which a play variation
should occur and what it should be. Perform the drills until you are