Blackjack Blueprint

How to Play Like

A Pro … Part-Time

Rick “Night Train” Blaine

Huntington Press
Las Vegas, Nevada
 Dedication

This book is dedicated to the memory of Sonny Boy.

Although we never had the opportunity to play at the same table, he was
the man from whom I first learned about wagering.
Acknowledgments
Kevin Blackwood, who recently authored Play Blackjack Like the Pros,
provided mutual feedback on our respective projects. Kevin has been
very generous with information, as well as upbeat and encouraging.
George C. is a well-respected author and a former teammate, whom I
nicknamed “the Legend.” A few years ago, when I had just ended a
losing team bank, George provided me with an introduction to one of the
best-financed advantage-play groups at the time. I hope to return the
favor some day. Among the several books George has authored, The
Unbalanced Zen II and Shuffle Tracking for Beginners are referenced in my
book.
Anthony Curtis, after I told him of my plans to write a complete book,
looked over the manuscript, and in the summer of 2003 told me, “I want
to publish this.” Anthony is a dynamic individual and a workaholic. He
also knows his business. With all the projects Huntington Press had
going, coupled with Anthony’s being an icon on the Travel Channel, it’s
been two years and it’s finally my turn. Experiencing the level of focus
Anthony possesses and the marketing capabilities of Huntington Press
has me excited. I’m grateful to Anthony.
Dustin Marks, author of Cheating at Blackjack and Cheating at Blackjack
Squared, was kind enough to lend his expertise and review the chapter of
my manuscript on the subject of cheating. My thanks to Dustin for the
suggestions provided, which have added greatly to the project.
Richard W. Munchkin, author of Gambling Wizards, reviewed my
chapters on Zone Tracking, Location Play, and Team Play. I’m grateful
for the suggestions and insight from this most talented individual.
Viktor Nacht, a colorful figure who picked up the publishing of my
second version of Blackjack in the Zone, jumped right in and added some
pizzazz to the work. After that, in his first major publishing effort, Viktor
rolled out Don Schlesinger’s Blackjack Attack 3, The Ultimate Weapon,
which is truly a masterpiece. Viktor has always been supportive of my
projects. Thanks, Viktor.
Sal Piacente is the top gaming-protection expert in the world now that
his mentor, Steve Forte, is retired. Yes, it’s true that Sal works to protect
the same casinos from which I attempt to use my skills to win money.
However, we extend each other a professional courtesy. I won’t play in
any casino with which he works and he won’t reveal my identity to
anyone. Both of us being from Brooklyn, we know the value of one’s
word. Sal is also one of the top memory experts in the world. He was
good enough to contribute his S.A.L. (Simple Associated Learning)
memory system as part of the chapter on Location Play.
Mickey Rosa is one of the masterminds of the infamous MIT team and
one of the most brilliant individuals in the advantage-playing arena.
Mickey lent his expertise by looking over chapters of this book on Zone
Tracking, Location Play, and Team Play.
Max Rubin can best be described as the power broker of the gaming
world. His masterful book, Comp City, is one of the best-hidden jewels for
advantage players. Reading Max’s work gave me enormous insight,
which led to my development of some new moves that still work to this
day. Max’s support over the years is greatly valued.
Don Schlesinger, author of Blackjack Attack 3, The Ultimate Weapon, has
been a most-valued supporter of all my projects. Don is a no-nonsense
calls-it-like-he-sees-it type of guy. Most folks don’t know that Don has
read just about every book on the subject of blackjack and has offered his
invaluable feedback to many of the authors. Over the years and through
the production of the book you’re about to read, Don has not only
reviewed the overall content, but red-inked my manuscripts like a
college English professor. Every author can benefit from Don’s expertise,
as he not only points out what needs to be corrected, but he also
acknowledges what you did right. A fairer and more honest person is
hard to find.
Arnold Snyder supported my authoring of two report-style books,
both of which he published in 2000 as Blackjack in the Zone and Blackjack
Blueprint: How to Operate a Blackjack Team. In November 2001, when
Arnold asked me to write an updated version of The Zone, he provided
some great suggestions on areas to add and expand on. He thought it
would be brilliant if I could include his Red Seven and Zen Count
systems from his Blackbelt in Blackjack book. Although Arnold left the
publishing business prior to the release of this second version of The
Zone, his support and encouragement during that time were key to its
success. It was also Arnold who recommended that I combine the texts of
both these works into a full-blast book, which is what you’re about to
read.
Norm Wattenberger is the developer of Casino Vérité, the number-one
blackjack practice software. Norm is truly a brilliant programmer. He’s
also one of the easiest individuals to work with. While completing my
manuscript, I approached Norm and asked if he’d be interested in
developing a companion software product specifically for this book.
Without hesitation, he said, “Sure.” What more can I say?
To two South Florida investors who were not afraid to take a risk, I
still say, “You guys are out of control,” but we’re still way ahead as this
book is going to print. When you read this book you’ll know that I’ve
kept my word not to reveal any specific locales. Thanks for your respect,
confidence, and making 2005 a profitable year.
Huntington Press Staff: Deke Castleman spearheaded the nightmare
of a project with the formatting of this book. Bethany Coffey’s creative
thinking helped move things in a new direction. Laurie Cabot worked
out the graphics and did a marvelous job of layout and production.
Finally, my wife, “Mrs. Blaine,” who has not only put up with me, but
has been most supportive.
Contents
Introduction
The Zones

The Silver Zone

1 How I Got Started

2 The House Advantage
3 How the Game is Played
Rules of the Game
4 Basic Strategy
Sequence for Learning Basic Strategy

The Red Zone

5 Selecting a System
Three Factors in Determining the Power of Systems
Different Types of Systems
6 Learning to Count Cards with the PLS
Learn the Point Values of Each Card
Learning to Maintain a Running Count
Maintain Running Count as Cards are Dealt
Apply a Betting Strategy to the Running Count
7 True-Count Conversion
8 Learning Play Variations
Plus Counts
Minus Counts
9 Advanced Counts
Zen Count
Unbalanced Zen II Count
 Converting to True Count Using Half-Deck Segments
Side Count of Aces
10 Putting It All Together
11 First Casino-Play Experience
Developing a Game Plan
Ready to Play?

The Green Zone

12 Money Management
13 Interaction with Casino Personnel
Tipping
14 Heat, Casino Countermeasures, and Camouflage
How Much is too Much?
Who is this Person?
Use of Different Names
Obtaining a Casino Players Card
Moving Your Bets
Playing Your Hands
When You Start Winning
You Wanna Be in Movies?
Barring from Play
Surveillance Techniques
Countermeasures
The Typical Card Counter Profile
Camouflage
Disguising Wins and Hiding Chips
Cashing Out
15 Casinos and Personal Privacy
Your Driver’s License, Please
Identity Theft and Casinos
Profiling Through the Players Club
Casino Credit
Cash Transaction Report (CTR)
Suspicious Activity Report (SAR)
Be Informed

The Black Zone

16 Cheating
The Preferential Shuffle
17 Advantage Play: Some Gray and Not-So-Gray Areas
18 Tactics for Double-Deck Play
Summary
19 Backcounting
20 Blackjack and the Internet
Security Tips for Participating in Blackjack-Related Websites
21 Blackjack Tournaments
22 The Comp Game and Travel Strategies
The Allure
Airfare
Saving Money on Hotel Rooms
Complimentaries
Loss-Rebate Programs
Other Comps
Some Final Tips on Scoring Comps
23 Airline Travel Security
24 Blackjack Outside the U.S.
Foreign Currency Exchange (“FX”) 101
25 Basics of Zone Tracking
Identifying Segment Sizes
Learning Cut-Off Tracking
Learning Segment Location
Learning Multi-Segment Location
Summary
26 Location Play
Introductory Exercise
The Learning Process
How to Bet
Fine Points
Summary

The Purple Zone

27 Introduction to Team Play

 Comparisions of Solo vs. Team Play
My First Team
28 Notes from a Team Diary
29 Getting to Know You
30 Team Leadership
Management
31 Methods of Player Compensation
Method A
Method B
Method C
Method D
Method E
Method F
Player Bonuses
Method G
Penalties
32 Living with Losses
Some Reasons for Red Ink
33 Outline for a Team Manual
1. Confidential Nature of Contents
2. Establishment and Implementation of Team Policies
3. Manager’s Role
4. Membership
5. Testing
6. Procedures for Actual Team Play
7. Various Tactics That May Be Applied
8. Expenses
9. Safety And Security
10. Distribution of Winnings
11. Quality Control
34 Down Memory Lane

The End Zone

35 Assuming the Role of a High-Stakes Player

Attitude
Preparation, Homework, and Knowledge
Eye Contact
Attire
Appearance
 Purpose
Summary
36 Playing Blackjack as a Part-Time Professional
Summary
37 Resources and Final Notes
Recommended Books
Periodicals
Software
Final Note
Glossary
About the Author
Introduction
Okay, here’s another book on blackjack. After reading most of the
books published on the game, playing for many years, and providing
group and private instruction, I finally decided to put some ideas of my
own together. People in the blackjack world tend to evaluate, compare,
and critique card-counting systems, software programs, books, and
theories as they encounter them. That’s good, but it’s essential to always
keep an open mind. If you read a book, watch a training video, or take a
lesson, you can glean at least one solid principle out of the presentation.
We never stop being students of the game. Accordingly, there’s
something within these pages that can benefit players of all levels.
This book doesn’t contain any “new breakthroughs” in card-counting
systems. With several excellent systems already on the market (some of
the good ones are included in this book), there are too many tough acts to
follow. Rather, the differences in systems are discussed, enabling
aspiring counters to select one that’s suitable for them. But just knowing
how to count cards isn’t enough, and beginning and experienced players
alike will gain valuable insight from the discussions of several important
concepts and techniques that must be mastered to be a successful
blackjack player.
Before attempting to apply card-counting skills in live play, it’s
necessary to have a solid understanding of the fundamentals of the
game. Toward that end, this book covers such issues as: • bankroll
• money management
• discipline
• game selection
• attitude
• interaction with casino personnel One of the highlights of this
book is the introduction of the Progressive Learning System (PLS),
a technique that allows you to learn any card-counting system on
the market in the most efficient and simplified manner.
 If new to the game, after reading Blackjack Blueprint you will know
what it takes to become a successful blackjack player and should be able
to determine if playing in the manner that’s outlined herein is for you.
You’ll be able to: • Determine if card counting is something you have
the ability and desire to do successfully.
• Select a card-counting system that works well for you.
• Master the PLS approach so you can learn the mechanics of almost
any card-counting system.
• Take the skills acquired from this book and strategically apply
them to live casino play.
As an existing player, Blackjack Blueprint will provide you with a
means to: • Learn other advanced techniques in a progressive manner.
• Evaluate the pros and cons of team play.
• Gain or enhance knowledge about tactical approaches to playing a
winning game.
Here are a couple of quick pointers to facilitate the learning process
while reading the book: • If you see a term and you’re unsure of its
meaning, refer to the Glossary in the back of the book. Cards with rank
ten, jack, queen, or king are referred to in the book as “10s.”
• Don’t be afraid of running into complicated mathematics. The goal
is to present the material in a simple and clear manner. Many of
the tactics discussed in this book come from personal experience
in actual casino play.
The first question you need to ask yourself is: “Am I a gambler or a
disciplined player?” A gambler is an “action player” who relies on luck
and thrives on the excitement of casino play. Gamblers usually aren’t
winning players. A disciplined player is a calculating individual who has
the patience and ability to evaluate a game and play only if the
conditions appear favorable. Disciplined players can walk through a
casino, evaluate the games at hand, and walk out without placing a bet if
the conditions aren’t favorable. When they bet, it’s in good situations and
this translates into winning over time. If you evaluate your own
personality and determine that you’ve got what it takes to be a
disciplined player, you’ll benefit greatly from this book. The goal of
Blackjack Blueprint is to educate you about the overall game, as well as the
“games within the game.” I hope you’ll find this presentation helpful and
profitable.
The Zones
The book is broken down into six “zones.” As you progress through
each, you’ll enhance your knowledge of blackjack play.
The Silver Zone
After familiarizing yourself with the rules of the game of blackjack,
along with the house advantage, you’ll learn how playing according to
the proper basic strategy can minimize the casino’s edge.
Covered in the Silver Zone are:
• the casino advantage at various games • how blackjack is played
• basic strategy
The Red Zone
Applying the outlined Progressive Learning System (PLS), you’ll
develop a foundation of the basic skills needed to identify opportunities
and play blackjack at an advantage.
Covered in the Red Zone are:
• selecting a card-counting system • learning the fundamentals of
card counting • preparation for initial live casino play • live
casino play
• post-game evaluation
The Green Zone
Here, you’ll fine-tune your skills and develop more tactical
approaches to playing a winning game.
Covered in the Green Zone are:
• tactics necessary for betting at higher levels • interaction with
casino personnel • money management
• avoiding detection
The Black Zone
Entering the Black Zone, you’ll prepare to play high-stakes blackjack
and add more to your arsenal, which is needed at this level of play.
Covered in the Black Zone are:
• the Internet as a source of blackjack information • casino comps
 and travel strategies • blackjack tournaments • awareness of
cheating • zone tracking
• location play
• other advantage-play techniques The Purple Zone
In the Purple Zone, you’re taken through the team-play experience.
Covered in the Purple Zone are:
• recruiting players
• management
• training
• testing
• quality control
• security
• creating a team manual The End Zone
Having reached the End Zone, you’re given some final pointers to
complete your blackjack education.
Covered in the End Zone are:
• high-roller strategies • playing part-time
• recommended books and systems
 The
Silver Zone
1
How I Got Started

In the late 1970s, I’d just finished college and moved back to the New
York City area. In the fashion of many my age, I landed a job on Wall
Street, along with an apartment in Manhattan (no BMW though, and my
hair was still a bit long). Soon I became friendly with a neighbor whom
I’ll call Pete. Pete, a former federal agent, was wheelchair-bound. I used
to talk to Pete for hours, as his stories fascinated me. He’d been all over
the world and he knew a lot about surveillance, a topic that always
amazed me. Pete had a part-time nurse who stopped in twice a week. But
he wanted to be self-sufficient and did great on his own. I occasionally
stopped by on my way to the supermarket to see if Pete needed
anything.
One day I found him sitting at the kitchen table with a huge stack of
playing cards and a few piles of paper clips. When I asked what he was
doing, he said that he was teaching himself how to count cards to beat
the casinos at blackjack. I paid him no mind and left. For some time,
though, it seemed that whenever I visited Pete, he was involved in this
routine.
Pete explained that card counting meant assigning a plus or minus
point value to each card. By doing so, a counter could determine how to
bet and play. Finally, after a few months of practice, Pete told me he was
ready to go to Atlantic City. I’d never been there, nor to any casino, but I
told him that if he wanted to go, I’d take him on the bus. We decided to
go on a Saturday morning.
It was late spring 1981. The bus fare was $15 per person and they
gave us coupons good for $10 in coin upon arrival in Atlantic City. The
bus was loaded with older folks, all of them excited about the trip. After
a three-hour ride, we arrived at Bally’s Park Place around noon. After we
ate lunch, Pete asked me to take him to the blackjack tables. The place
was crowded, and maneuvering Pete’s wheelchair was no easy task.
Finally, Pete pointed to a table with some empty spots and I took him
over. He gave me the voucher for his roll of coins (dollars) and said he’d
be okay there for about an hour. I left him and went to the slot machines
with 20 silver dollars.
Observing the slot machine players, I quickly concluded that it was
some sort of religion for those folks, some of whom were feeding coins
into two or three different machines at a time. They seemed to have
unbelievable coordination in doing so. Finally, I decided on a machine
for myself, one next to an attractive young lady who completely ignored
me. I ended up winning a little over $300 playing slots, then took a stroll
around the rest of the casino.
I saw a roulette wheel, and after watching for a while, placed a $5 bet
on red. I lost. On to the crap table, where lots of people were hooting and
hollering. I’d done a little homework on craps and knew that when you
rolled the dice, if you got a 7 or 11, you won, and if you got a 2, 3, or 12
you lost. That was all I knew. I asked someone to help me and ended up
placing a $5 bet on the pass line. The person rolling the dice rolled a 6
and it was explained to me that now the shooter had to roll a 6 before
rolling a 7 for me to win. I scratched my head, confused, as the shooter
rolled a 10. I didn’t even want to ask what that meant. The next roll was a
7 and the dealer collected my chip.
Next it was on to the blackjack tables. I stood by a table and watched
the game being dealt. At this point I knew only that the object of the
game was to get closer to 21 than the dealer, without going over 21. I sat
down and clumsily handed the dealer $50. He instructed me to place the
money on the table, so I put the $50 down on the circle in front of my
seat. The dealer asked if I wanted to bet the $50. I shook my head no. I
had no way of knowing that the cash should not have been placed in the
betting circle unless I wanted to bet it all.
After instruction on how to get change the proper way, I had 10 red
chips in front of me, each valued at $5. Two cards were dealt in front of
me and I reached to pick them up. “Please don’t handle the cards, sir,”
the dealer snapped at me. I apologized and proceeded to play, quickly
learning the proper hand signals for hit and stand. Still, I noticed that the
people at the table were upset with me. I couldn’t figure out why, though
I clearly remember friction over a hand on which I had two 8s. I don’t
recall what the dealer had showing, but a loudmouthed person sitting
next to me said, “You’re gonna split those, I hope.” I gave a puzzled look
and said, “Split?” I ended up standing on the 16. After the round, the
loudmouth mumbled a few choice words and left. I won $100 at that
table. Then it was time for me to check on Pete.
I walked over to his table and he asked me how I was doing. All
excited, I told him about winning $300 playing slots and $100 playing
blackjack. He whispered that he was winning and wanted to play some
more. At this point we agreed that I’d check back with him in another
two hours. I quit while ahead and went off for a stroll along the
Boardwalk.
After the two hours, I returned to the casino to check on Pete and I
noticed that the pile of chips in front of him was smaller than when I’d
left. It was about 4:30 and Pete decided to call it a day. He asked if I
wanted to have dinner. I nodded. He showed me a slip of paper and told
me that dinner was free. Once again, I was puzzled. When we got to the
restaurant, Pete told me that I could order whatever I wanted. He
explained that after you gamble for a certain period of time, the casinos
give you free meals, tickets to shows, and free rooms. My eyes widened. I
was amazed that all you had to do was gamble at the casinos and they
would give you all these things for free. Pete told me that many people
lose lots of money getting those free meals. As the saying goes: There’s no
such thing as a free lunch. Pete said that when I first checked in with him,
he was winning, up about $900. But when I returned two hours later,
he’d lost all but $50 of his winnings. Dinner was great, then we hopped
on the bus home.
Although I never went back to Atlantic City with Pete, he made
several trips down there over the next two years. I thought that because
he was counting cards, he should be able to win money. Based on my
talks with him, however, Pete seemed to lose more than he won. But win
or lose, it all seemed too complicated for me to worry about.
 In December 1983, Pete moved away, leaving me with a box of books
and some other odds and ends he thought I might find interesting. After
a couple of months, I finally had time to sort through the box and found
several decks of cards and a hardcover book titled Million Dollar
Blackjack. I noticed that it was autographed by the author, Ken Uston. I
decided to keep the book and the cards and soon I began reading the
book.
To this day, I still consider Million Dollar Blackjack to be one of the
most informative and entertaining books on the game ever written. I read
through that book chapter by chapter, stopping to practice the drills as
they were presented. I was on my way.
Throughout this book are more details of my experiences with
playing the game at various levels—for example, how I got involved
with blackjack teams and my journey of playing at high-stakes for more
than 20 years. At the time of this writing, I can still confidently walk into
a casino and play a winning game. I’ll end this chapter with some notes
from my diary of the final days of a recent play:
Thursday Night/Friday Morning
My final plunge. Hit the tables at 11:15 p.m. and got a private table in
the VIP Room. During several wild sessions throughout the evening and
into the early-morning hours, I went from down $50,000 to winning
$22,900. Took $36,000 in my last shoe. Then played Friday afternoon in
one final session and won $12,500, putting my trip total at $5,000. It was a
long night/morning!
Friday Night/Saturday Morning
Decided to sleep a good deal of the day Friday, to squeeze in one last
play before leaving for home. This time I arrived as the VIP Room
opened for the evening and continued with the aggressive style of play. I
opened up the table, with no other players. After three shoes, I was up
$46,000, putting my overall trip total at $51,000. A couple of other players
joined the table, so I left. I’m done.
I’m glad to be going home, as the trip was a bit tiring. The swings
were wild and I’m pleased I ended up with a decent enough win.
2
The House Advantage

The gaming industry has been growing at a blistering pace over the
past few years. A number of states have legal casinos on riverboats and
on land. Casinos have also opened on Native American land. People get
a big thrill out of trying their luck at gambling. In states that offer a
lottery, check out the ticket lines when the jackpot grows large.
Casinos are in business to make money on their “games of chance,” so
it should be no surprise that all casino games have a built-in house
advantage. Here’s an example of how the casino makes its money with
the house advantage.
In craps, the house advantage (on the best bets) is roughly 1.5%. If 100
people each make one bet at $10 per bet, the total “action” is $1,000.
Considering the 1.5% disadvantage on that action, they will lose, on
average, about $15 on the play.
Following are the house advantages for a few other casino games
(approximate):
baccarat: 1.2 %
roulette: 5.3 %
slots: 3% and up
keno: 25%
What about the house advantage for blackjack? Let’s hold off on
providing numbers on this, because there are a lot of variables to
consider. While all other casino games are subject to what’s known as the
“law of independent trials,” the house advantage in the game of
blackjack is dependent on the cards that were previously dealt. Each time
a card is removed from a deck (or decks) in play, the odds of the game at
hand shift, and at times those odds shift to the player’s advantage. This is
the only casino game where the odds shift in this manner. In all other
games, the fixed house advantage remains constant. For example, in
craps it’s entirely possible to roll 10 sevens in a row, regardless of how
many sevens were previously rolled. Thus the saying, “dice have no
memory.” On the roulette wheel, the number 22 can hit two or three (or
more) times in succession.
Now let’s look at blackjack. In a game where a single deck is in use, if
on the first round dealt all four aces appear, the chance of being dealt an
ace in any subsequent round is zero. Since you need an ace to get a
natural, for which the house (usually) pays the player 3-2, your chance of
getting a blackjack in any subsequent round is also zero. In such cases,
the house advantage increases. Considering the reverse situation, if after
a few rounds have been dealt no aces have appeared and there’s less than
a half-deck remaining, the advantage is now (probably) in favor of the
player. Card-counting systems identify these situations and provide you
with a tool for adjusting your betting and playing decisions to make use
of this knowledge.
The material presented in this book will show you how it’s done, and
put you on the path to playing for profits.
3
How the Game is Played

The typical blackjack table has spots for seven players (though some
have only five or six), which can appear as circles or boxes, sometimes
with the word “BET” inside. The first seat on the right as you face the
dealer is referred to as “first base” and the last seat on the left is known
as “third base.”
Directly in front of the dealer is the “chip tray” (also called the “check
rack”), where casino chips are maintained for that table and sorted in
denomination order. The usual chip denominations are: $5 red chips,
known as “nickels,” $25 green chips, known as “quarters,” and $100
black chips. At the higher-limit tables, commonly found denominations
include $500 purple chips and $1,000 chips (colors vary). Smaller
denominations can also be found, such as $1 and $2.50 chips (colors
vary). Actual half-dollar coins may be kept in the chip tray as well.
As you look at the dealer, to the left is the discard tray, where the
dealer places cards after they’ve been used in each round. Commonly,
after shuffling a deck or decks, the dealer removes the top card from play
and places it in the discard tray. This is referred to as the “burn card.”
Behind the discard tray is a small clear box, in which the dealer deposits
all tips received. This is referred to as the “toke box.” Next to the discard
tray is a slot in the table where the dealer deposits all currency received
from players, whether to purchase chips at the table or used in actual
play. This is called the “drop slot.” Money deposited in the drop slot falls
into a locked box called a “drop box.”
In games where 4 or more decks are used, a “shoe” is used. Upon
completion of the shuffle, the decks are placed into the shoe (a box-like
device), from which they’re dealt.
On either side of the dealer, there should be two separate placards.
One indicates the table minimum and maximum bets permitted. The
second indicates the important house rules for the blackjack game at that
particular table. You may also find a third placard, indicating “No
Smoking Allowed.”
Rules of the Game
The object of the game is to make a total higher than that of the dealer
without exceeding 21. When this happens, the player wins the bet and an
even-money (1-1) payoff. If the dealer gets the higher total, the player’s
bet is lost. In the event that both player and dealer make the same total,
it’s called a “push” (tie), and no settlement occurs on that hand. Jacks,
queens, and kings count as 10; aces are either 1 or 11, at the player’s
option; 2s through 10s are worth their face value.
At the start of the game, the dealer shuffles the deck(s) to be played.
The cards are then presented to a player at the table to cut. Single decks
are often cut with the hand in the normal fashion. When 2 or more decks
are used, the player is given a plastic cut card to insert at the desired cut
point. The dealer then takes the cards under the plastic cut card and
places them on top on the pack, leaving the plastic cut card on the
bottom. If more than 2 decks are being used (and in some casinos, also
with 1 or 2 decks), a second plastic cut card is placed by the dealer at a
point in the pack. This is referred to as a “shuffle card,” as its purpose is
to signal the dealer when it’s time to reshuffle.
When 1 or 2 decks are used, the dealer usually holds them in one
hand and deals (“pitches”) with the other. When more than 2 decks are
used, the cards are placed in a shoe to be dealt (although it’s rare, some
casinos deal 1 or 2 decks from a shoe).
Play begins as the dealer places the burn card (or cards) in the discard
tray face down. Players place their wagers in the betting circles directly
in front of them. Going from the dealer’s left to right, cards are dealt to
each player, and one goes to the dealer. Then a second card is dealt to
each player and a second to the dealer. One dealer card is face up, the
“upcard,” and one dealer card is face down, the “hole card.” Depending
on the number of decks and house rules, the player’s two cards are dealt
either both face up or both face down.
If the dealer’s upcard is an ace, the dealer asks the players if they
want “insurance.” Insurance is a side bet that the dealer’s hole card is a
10, resulting in a dealer “natural” (or blackjack). A player may bet up to
half of his original wager on insurance and is paid at 2-1 odds if the
dealer has a natural.
If the casino offers “early surrender” (rare), the player has the option
of forfeiting half the original wager before the dealer checks for a natural.
This is done by either saying “surrender” or by drawing an imaginary
line behind your bet with your finger, the hand signal for surrender. In a
face-down game, the player also flips over both cards, placing them on
the table face up.
After all players have decided whether or not to take insurance, the
dealer “peeks” at the hole card. If it’s a 10, the dealer flips it over and
pays all insurance bets at odds of 2-1. The dealer then picks up each
player’s original wager, including the ones from those who won the
insurance side bet. The exception is when a player also has an ace and a
10 for a natural, in which case the dealer doesn’t take the original wager,
as the hand is a push. The dealer then picks up all the remaining cards on
the table, placing them into the discard tray face down, and the hand is
over. If the dealer doesn’t have a 10 in the hole, the insurance bets lose.
The insurance money is picked up and play continues. When a player’s
first two cards dealt are an ace and 10, that hand comprises a “natural” or
a “blackjack.” The traditional payout for a natural is 3-2 to the player.
Recently, some casinos have been experimenting with 6-5 payouts for
naturals, which adds significantly to the casino’s edge.
If the casino offers “late surrender,” players may forfeit half of the
original wager after the dealer checks for a natural, but before playing
the hand. The dealer collects half the wager, then finishes play of the
hand if other players are at the table and haven’t surrendered.
Note: Most casinos also require the dealer to check for a natural when
the upcard is a 10. In this case, the dealer peeks immediately at the hole
card, and if it’s an ace, he flips it over and collects all wagers, except if a
player also has a natural. If the dealer doesn’t have an ace, play resumes
as normal.
Beginning with the player on the dealer’s left, each player is asked (or
prompted by pointing) how he wants to play his hand. In a face-up
game, if the player wants another card (“hit”), he signals by tapping or
scratching a finger on the table. If the player doesn’t want another card
(“stand”), he waves his hand, with palm facing down, side to side above
the bet. If, after taking a hit, the card total exceeds 21, the player “busts.”
The dealer takes the bet and places the cards in the discard tray. In a face-
down game, the player picks up the original two cards dealt and signals
for a hit by gently scratching the cards on the table. To signal a stand, the
original two cards are tucked under the wager. A player may continue to
hit a hand until it exceeds 21. When the player busts, the original two
cards should be tossed on the table, face up.
Players have the option to “double down” on the first two cards dealt.
The rules vary by casino; some permit a player to double on any two
cards, while others allow doubling only on two-card totals of 10 or 11. To
double down, place an amount equal to the original wager next to it. In a
face-up game, simply say “double down.” In a face-down game, turn
both cards face up and place them in front of the original bet. When a
player doubles down, only one additional card is dealt to that hand. In a
face-down game, the card is usually dealt face down, while in a face-up
game the card orientation varies.
If a player’s first two cards are of the same value, the pair may be
“split.” The player places an additional wager, equal to the original, and
says “split.” In a face-down game, the player turns both cards over and
places them in front of the original bet. Although most dealers will know
when you intend to double down or pair split, they’ll usually ask if you
don’t declare. When splitting pairs, the player is actually separating the
first hand and creating two hands, each to be played in sequence in that
same round. Each hand is played separately, using the appropriate
hit/stand signals as indicated above.
After all players complete the play of their hands, the dealer exposes
the hole card and plays the hand according to set rules. The dealer is
required to hit on all hands totaling 16 or less and to stand on hands
totaling 17 or higher. In the case of a “soft hand” of 17, such as an ace and
a 6, rules vary by casino. Some require the dealer to stand on a soft 17,
while others require the dealer to hit. After the dealer finishes drawing,
all remaining wagers are settled. If the dealer draws to a total above 21,
all players who have not busted first (or surrendered) win. If the dealer
doesn’t bust, each player wins, loses, or pushes depending on his total
compared to the dealer’s. The wagers are settled, then all cards are
collected and placed in the discard tray.
Players then place their wagers in the betting circle for the next round
of play and the process repeats.
When the cut card is reached, the round in progress is completed and
the remaining undealt cards in the shoe are mixed with those in the
discard tray. The cards are reshuffled and the process starts over again.
In a hand-dealt game without a cut card, the cards are shuffled at a point
dictated by house policy or when the dealer feels there may not be
enough cards to complete another round.
4
Basic Strategy

Basic strategy is a set of optimal playing decisions based on the

player’s cards and the dealer’s upcard. Playing according to the correct
basic strategy for a specified number of decks and set of rules provides
the player with the best way to play any hand without the benefit of
additional information (such as the count of the deck). Some basic
strategy decisions vary based on the number of decks and the rules in
effect, but most decisions are consistent through all blackjack games.
The basic strategy was developed by computer analysis and it’s
mathematically irrefutable. Whatever the computer has determined as
correct is the proper thing to do. It’s not always obvious. Let’s look at a
situation in which the player has a hand of T,6 and the dealer is showing
a ten (upcard). A hand of 16 against a dealer’s ten is a losing situation, hit
or stand. But it would seem that standing would offer the most hope,
since hitting a 16 will likely result in drawing a high card and busting.
That’s how I used to think. But basic strategy tells us to hit the 16. The
reason? The computer runs show that the player will lose more hands of
16 by standing than by hitting. That’s all you need to know. Choosing to
stand rather than hit will cost you money. It’s that simple.
For this reason, once you learn basic strategy, it’s essential that you
adhere strictly to the play decisions as outlined. You must play like a
machine. No hunches. At times, a dealer or other players may criticize
your play. You must have nerves of steel and zone out these outside
influences. By playing perfect basic strategy, you’re decreasing a house
advantage of more than 2% (the casino’s edge against the average player)
to less than .5%, subject to the rules of the game you’re playing.
At times you’ll play basic strategy perfectly and lose hand after hand.
When this happens, you must zone it out, because in the long run,
making the correct basic strategy plays is to your advantage. You must
learn to play basic strategy flawlessly, as any deviations from the proper
plays cost you money over time.
To apply basic strategy effectively, you must remember the
distinction between a hard hand and a soft hand. A hard-hand total can’t
be lowered by counting the ace as 1. For example, a hand of A,2,4, is a
soft 17, because it can be lowered by counting the ace as 1 to get a hand
of 7. A hand of A,2,4,T is a hard 17. It can’t be lowered, since the ace is
already counted as 1.
Following is the basic strategy for a typical multi-deck game, as
offered in a number of Las Vegas and Atlantic City casinos.
Hit/Stand Decisions on Hard-Total Hands
• Stand on all hard totals of 17 and higher.
• When the dealer is showing an upcard of 7, 8, 9, T, A, hit all hands
until your cards total 17 or higher.
• Stand on hard totals of 13, 14, 15, 16 vs. dealer upcard of 2, 3, 4, 5,
6; otherwise hit.
• Stand on hard total of 12 vs. dealer upcard of 4, 5, 6; otherwise hit.
The above decisions occur more than others throughout the game.
Double Down Decisions on Hard-Total Hands
• Double down on all hard totals of 11 vs. dealer upcard of 2, 3, 4, 5,
6, 7, 8, 9, T; otherwise hit.
• Double down on all hard totals of 10 vs. dealer upcard of 2, 3, 4, 5,
6, 7, 8, 9; otherwise hit.
• Double down on all hard totals of 9 vs. dealer upcard of 3, 4, 5, 6;
otherwise hit.
Pair Splitting
• Always split A,A or 8,8.
• Never split T,T or 5,5.
• Split 2,2; 3,3; and 7,7 vs. dealer upcard of 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7; otherwise
hit.
• Split 4,4 vs. dealer upcard of 5 or 6, otherwise hit.
• Split 6,6 vs. dealer upcard of 2, 3, 4, 5, 6; otherwise hit.
• Split 9,9 vs. dealer upcard of 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 9 (not 7); otherwise
stand.
Double Down Decisions on Soft-Hand Totals
Double Down Decisions on Soft-Hand Totals
• Double down on A,2 or A,3 vs. dealer upcard of 5 or 6; otherwise
hit.
• Double down on A,4 or A,5 vs. dealer upcard of 4, 5, 6; otherwise
hit.
• Double down on A,6 or A,7 vs. dealer upcard of 3, 4, 5, 6;
otherwise hit (except stand with an A,7 vs. dealer upcard of 2, 7,
or 8).
The player is permitted to double down only only on the initial two
cards. There are some rare occasions where a casino permits doubling
after one or two hit cards are dealt. The basic strategy for these special
rules is different.
Never Take Insurance
Basic Strategy Multi-Deck, Atlantic City Rules
 If late surrender option is offered:
• Surrender a hard 16 (but not 8,8) vs. dealer 9, T, or A.
• Surrender a hard 15 vs. dealer T.
Remember, different rules and numbers of decks result in different
basic strategies. For complete coverage of proper basic strategies for
different games, consult The Theory of Blackjack by Peter Griffin or
Blackjack Attack 3 by Don Schlesinger.
Sequence for Learning Basic Strategy
1. Start with the basic hard hit/stand decisions.
2. Learn the hard doubling decisions.
3. Learn the soft doubling decisions 4. Learn pair splitting
decisions.
5. Take each quiz in the order presented. The specified order will
simplify the learning process.
6. Deal yourself hands with only an upcard for the dealer and check
your decisions.
7. Repeat #5 and #6 as described below.
Additional Practice Drills
Refer to the flash-card sample and use it as a guide to create a set by
pasting them onto cardboard and cutting to size. Write in the player
total, dealer upcard, and play decision. Drill yourself, using your thumb
to cover the answer on the bottom right corner of each flash card before
checking for the correct response. Use the flash cards, first in order of
each segment of basic strategy (e.g., use only the hit/stand cards after
studying the hit/stand decisions, then use only the hard-doubling flash
cards after studying that segment, and so on). After you’ve learned all
the segments of basic strategy, you can mix all the flash cards together
for final drills in random order. You can augment study with CV
Blueprint, this book’s companion software, which contains drills for
practicing basic strategy.

Drill Instructions
Make several copies of the following drill sheets. Perform each drill
until you can complete it accurately, recalling each response without
hesitation. Then move on to the next drill.
Drill # 1: Hard Totals Hit/Stand
Drill # 2: Hard Double-Down Decisions

Drill # 3: Soft Double-Down Decisions

Drill # 4: Pair-Splitting Decisions

Answers to Drill # 1
Answers to Drill # 2

Answers to Drill # 3
Answers to Drill # 4
 The
Red Zone
5
Selecting a System

Once you’ve mastered basic strategy and reduced the house

advantage to less than .5% in many accessible games, you’re ready to
progress to card counting. Mastering this skill can provide you with the
tools to identify the shifting advantage between the house and the player
during blackjack play. Before exploring the types of card-counting
systems available, there are two crucial personal factors you must
consider.
Your Abilities—There’s story after story about prospective card
counters in search of the ultimate system. Finally, one of the many
complicated systems on the market is chosen. The player learns the
system. Then, while using it in live play, he wonders why it’s not
working. So often, beginners take on the heavy task of trying to learn a
“genius-level” system, one that significantly increases the potential for
errors that wind up costing them money. There’s no shame in not being
able to apply such a system in live play—very few players can.
The good news is you don’t have to. The difference in performance
between the least and most complicated of the credible card-counting
systems is fractions of a penny per hand, or even per dozens of hands
(though high-stakes players will point out that even tiny percentage
gains can have a discernible impact on returns as stakes rise). Put your
ego and pride on the shelf and choose the system that’s easiest for you to
handle, not the one with the most bells and whistles. Remember, it’s
more profitable to play a weaker system accurately than to play a
powerful system inaccurately.
Your Stamina—Let’s say you have the ability to learn a genius-level
system flawlessly. You must next determine how long you can accurately
apply such a system in live play before your brain turns to mush. Many
players using a higher-level system find that after 30 minutes or so, they
can’t continue playing accurately. Using a simpler system often allows
you to last longer at a table.
The above two points have little to do with win rates or mathematical
formulas, but in my opinion, they rank as the most important to consider
before going forward. That’s because the actual application of a card-
counting system has more to do with psychology than mathematics.
While most books on the topic beat the mathematics to death, my
approach is to consider first the psychological dynamics and provide a
practical and uncomplicated approach to applying a good system at the
tables.
Three Factors in Determining the Power of Systems
Betting Efficiency
One of the primary principles of card counting is to bet more when
you have an advantage and to bet less when you don’t. Any good
system’s key component is a point count. The betting efficiency of a
system is measured by how its point count identifies the shift in
advantage and quantifies it. The betting efficiency indicates how well a
given count does this. A system with a strong betting efficiency is the
foundation for the development of an effective betting scheme.
Playing Efficiency
Another benefit provided by a card-counting system is properly
identifying times when it’s correct to deviate from basic strategy. Playing
efficiency indicates how well a system identifies the deviation
opportunities.
Let’s look at an example that’s unlikely to occur, but is a good
illustration of the concept. You’re playing “heads-up” on a single-deck
game in which the dealer is dealing down to the last card. You have two
tens and the dealer’s upcard is a 7. Two cards remain to be dealt and you
haven’t seen any aces yet. Counting the burn card, the dealer’s hole card,
and the two undealt cards, you know where the four aces have to be. The
dealer, showing a 7 with an ace hole card, will end up with a hand of 18.
Knowing there are two aces waiting to be dealt, what would you do? Of
course, you’d split the tens, which would result in your drawing both
aces for two hands of 21.
 Don’t get too excited; the Fantasy Island Casino has been closed for
many years. But this extreme example shows what the information you
glean from counting cards can potentially do for your game. A more
likely manifestation is standing on a 16 when the dealer shows a ten (as
opposed to the basic-strategy play of hitting), because the count tells you
there’s an excess of high cards remaining. A system’s playing efficiency
can be measured mathematically to determine how well the system
identifies the proper basic-strategy-deviation opportunities.
Insurance Efficiency
Basic strategy dictates that a player should never take insurance.
When counting cards, however, a player will sometimes make the
insurance bet. A good system provides an accurate gauge for when
taking insurance is advantageous.
Different Types of Systems
Following are several variations of card-counting systems.
X-Level Systems
Count systems assign a “point value” to each card denomination. The
easiest systems are one-level counts, whose card values are limited to -1,
0, and +1. A two-level count can have values of -2, -1, 0, +1, and +2. A
three-level count can have values of -3, -2, -1, 0, +1, +2, and +3. Higher
levels are also available.
As you go up in the levels, it’s possible to gain more power if the
system is applied correctly. However, the increased complexity makes it
more difficult to play without errors, and there are diminishing returns;
that is, after a while, adding higher levels simply is not worthwhile.
Balanced Counts
In a “balanced-count system,” the total of the plus-card values is
equal to that of the minus-card values. With balanced systems, starting at
0 and counting down a deck (adding and subtracting the proper plus and
minus point values as the cards are turned) leaves you back at 0 at the
end of the deck. Most count systems are balanced.
Unbalanced Counts
In an “unbalanced-count system,” the total of the plus-card values is
not equal to that of the minus-card values. With unbalanced systems,
counting down a deck from a prescribed starting number (an unbalanced
count typically doesn’t start from zero) leaves you at a different number
when you finish.
Running Count
The “running count” is the cumulative count of the cards—according
to their assigned values of plus, minus, or neutral (0)—at any given point
as you’re counting down a deck. Example: Assume that tens are assigned
a point value of -1 and two players at a table both have 20s made up of
two tens each. The dealer shows a ten and turns up another ten. Using a
balanced count and beginning from the top of the deck with a starting
count of 0, the running count is -6 at the end of this round. This is
determined by the six cards dealt each having a point value of -1. On the
next round, the count begins at -6.
True Count
The “true count” is an additional measure that enables a player to
gain more power from a system. The true count is derived by dividing
the running count by the number of decks or half-decks (depending on
the system) remaining to be dealt. The resulting number is used to derive
the proper bet, play, and insurance decisions. Example: In a 6-deck game,
the running count is +12. You look at the discard tray and determine that
3 decks have already been dealt. Therefore, 3 decks remain. Dividing a
running count of +12 by 3, we establish our true count of +4.
Note that an unbalanced-count system eliminates the need for true-
count conversion, because all decisions are made according to the
running count.
At this point, you may have concluded that the most difficult count
system would be a multi-level balanced count, where true-count
conversion is required. Not so fast.
Side Count of Aces
In systems where the aces are neutral (assigned a value of 0), a player
must maintain a separate side count of aces and make an additional
adjustment to properly determine the betting amount. These counts are
called “ace neutralized.” A count that assigns a point value other than 0
to the ace does not normally require such a side count and is called “ace
reckoned.”
Play Variations
The final ingredient of a count system is the number of play
variations from basic strategy it includes. There’s quite a range among
systems, based on what the author chooses to include—some have only a
few variations, while others have more than 100. Of course, the more
complex, the more difficult to learn and the more chance of error in live
application. There are roughly 20 key play variations (covered later in the
book) that a player needs to memorize. You can attempt to apply more
variations, but the overall gain is usually minimal.
What Do You Do?
For most players, an unbalanced one-level system with
approximately 20 play variations is all that’s needed. Such a system
yields a playing advantage, is easy to learn, and allows longer effective
application in live play. Examples of such a count are the Knock-Out and
the Red 7 counts. If you want more firepower in a system and are
confident in your abilities, you can try a more challenging count system,
including any of these:
• Unbalanced 2-level count, such as the Unbalanced Zen II.
• Unbalanced 3-level count, such as the Uston SS.
• Balanced 1-level count with true-count conversion, such as the Hi-
Lo.
• Balanced 2-level count with true-count conversion, such as the
Zen Count.
• Balanced 3-level count with true-count conversion, such as the
Uston APC.
6

Learning to Count Cards with the PLS

It’s not my intention to pitch any specific card-counting system, as
just about every one published is mathematically sound. The information
in this chapter should give you the tools to decide what type of system is
best suited for you. For our purposes here, we’ll begin by using a
balanced one-level count. Please note that the learning progressions
outlined in this chapter can be applied to just about any counting system.
This systematic method of learning is called the Progressive Learning
System (PLS).
It starts off with a simple-level card-counting system, with the
flexibility to add components later should more power be desired. Using
the PLS, you don’t need to completely switch count systems and relearn
an entire set of numbers to get more power. The system we’ll be learning
below is based on the point values from the Hi-Lo count system, which is
presented in Stanford Wong’s book Professional Blackjack.
1-Level Balanced Count
At the completion of this level, you’ll be able to maintain a running
count and vary your bets accordingly, allowing you to gain a slight edge
in a blackjack game.
Learn the Point Values of Each Card
Get a deck of cards and take out one card of each value, 2 through
ace. Place the cards in a stack corresponding to the following chart.
Drill Number One
With the cards in the sequence as outlined, flip through each of the 13
cards reciting the point value of each card as you encounter it. Repeat
this drill until you can flip through the cards reciting their values
accurately and without hesitation.
Tip: You may find it easier to organize the cards by grouping the plus
values, the minus values, and then the 0-value cards.
Drill Number Two
Shuffle the 13 cards. Flip though the shuffled cards, reciting the point
value of each one as you encounter it. Continue practicing until you’re
fast and accurate.
Drill Number Three
Mix the 13 cards back into the full deck and shuffle it. Now flip
through the entire deck of 52 cards, reciting the point value of each card
as you go. When you can flip through the deck of 52 cards reciting the
point values quickly and accurately, you’re ready to go to the next
progression.
Learning to Maintain a Running Count
Now you’ll learn to keep a cumulative count total (the running count)
based on the plus/minus/neutral point values while flipping through
the cards in a deck.
Drill Number Four
Take the deck of 52 cards and using the memorized point values,
follow this sequence:
Say “zero,” and flip over the first card.
Say [the point value of that card], then say, “The running count is
(point value of that first card).”
Flip over the second card, say [the point value of that card], then add
or subtract it to the previous running count, determine your new running
count, and say, “The running count is (#).”
Continue through the deck. After completing all 52 cards, your
running count should be zero, as this is a balanced count. If you don’t
wind up at zero, count the deck again (with the cards in the same order
as previously counted).

Drill Number Five

Same exercise as above, with the following modifications:
Say “Zero.”
Flip over the first card and mentally determine its value. Then verbally
say your running count.
Flip over the second card, mentally add it to or subtract it from your
running count, and say your new running count.
At this point, when completing your countdown, you should be
arriving at zero with consistency. Remember, if you’re not at zero, repeat
the countdown in the same order. Why? If an isolated sequence of
numbers is throwing you off, the best way to correct it is through
repetition. If you’re going through that deck a little faster, that’s good.
The more you practice, the more your speed will pick up. Ready to go
faster?
Drill Number Six
To develop speed in counting down a deck, once you’re accurate and
fast in counting the cards one at a time, you can learn to train your brain
to “group” the cards, counting them two at a time.
Take 10 cards valued at +1 and place them face down, lined up on the
table.
Now take 10 cards valued at -1 and place each card atop a +1 valued
card, leaving 10 little stacks of two cards each.
Starting with zero, flip the first pair of cards and mentally determine
that the +1 and -1 offset each other to add up to zero.
Finish flipping over the subsequent pairs, mentally determining that
they offset to keep the running count at zero.
Now add 10 cards valued at 0 to this group and mix up all 30 cards.
You should have different combinations of pairs adding to -2, -1, 0, +1,
and +2.
Finally, count down the entire deck of 52 cards, keeping the running
count by counting in pairs.
To ensure accuracy, pull one card from the deck. Place it face down
without looking at it. After completing the countdown of the 51 cards,
you probably won’t be at zero, and should be able to determine the point
value of the card you pulled. For example, if the running count is +1, the
remaining card should be either a ten, jack, queen, king or ace (a -1 point
value card). If the count is zero, the unseen card should have a value of
zero—a 7, 8, or 9.
You want to aim for counting down a deck in 25 seconds or less. Be
patient, though. Speed comes eventually. In the beginning, accuracy is
much more important. If you’re not accurate, the count is of no value.
Some Tips for Gaining Speed
In plus counts, get in the habit of not saying the word “plus.”
In minus counts, say “M” instead of the word “minus.”
When counting down a deck, face the cards toward you and transfer
them from one hand to the other as you count, instead of flipping over
the cards.
At a zero count, say “Z” instead of zero.
Using these little tricks, you can shave a few seconds off your time.
Maintain Running Count as Cards are Dealt
Cards Dealt Face Up
 Because the cards are exposed as the dealer distributes them, this is
the simplest method of maintaining the count. Here’s the sequence:
Starting at the dealer’s left, one card is dealt to each player and one
card is dealt face up to the dealer. Do nothing.
As the dealer is about to deal the second card to player #1, your eyes
should be focused (subtly) on the spot where that second card will be
exposed.
As the card is dealt, look at the pair of cards and silently recite the
running count.
Continue as above, as each second card is dealt to the other players,
by looking at each pair of cards.
When the dealer takes a hole card, look at the value of the upcard and
add that to your running count.
As you and the other players take additional hit cards, add those
values to your running count.
When the dealer reveals the hole card, add that value to your running
count.
If the dealer takes additional hit cards, add those values to your
running count as they are turned up. Don’t get confused by the position
of the cards in the dealer’s hand. You already counted the upcard. Watch
as the hole card is revealed next (usually to your right, or the dealer’s left,
of the hole card). Then add any hit cards drawn (usually to the dealer’s
right, and your left, of the hole card).
After the round is completed, your running count will be used to
determine your bet size for the next round.
Cards Dealt Face Down
In single-and double-deck hand-held games, players’ cards are
normally dealt face down. Here’s the sequence to maintain the running
count.
Starting at the dealer’s left, one card is dealt to each player, and one
card is dealt face up to the dealer. Do nothing.
In the same order, the dealer will deal a second card face down to
each player. At this point your hand should be on the table, and as your
second card is dealt, quickly pick up and look at both cards, then silently
determine the running count.
As the dealer takes a hole card, check the value of the up-card and
add that to your running count.
As you and the other players take additional hit cards, add those
values to your running count.
If a player busts, splits, doubles down, or has a blackjack, add the
value of those exposed cards to your running count.
As the dealer exposes the hole card, add that value to your running
count.
If the dealer takes additional hit cards, add those values as they are
exposed, to your running count.
As the dealer turns over a player’s previously unexposed cards to
settle the hand, add those values to your running count. As these cards
are flipped over, they’ll be positioned on the table as the two closest
cards to the dealer in any given player’s hand.
After the round is completed, your running count will be used to
determine your bet size for the next round. Be especially careful and alert
when the dealer has a blackjack. At this moment, all the players toss their
cards on the table. They’re not always neatly arranged. You have to be
quick here!
Apply a Betting Strategy to the Running Count
One benefit of card counting is the ability to identify moments in the
game when the composition of cards remaining to be dealt is either
favorable to the player (a plus running count) or favorable to the casino
(a minus running count). Armed with this information, the card-counting
player will bet as little as possible in a minus count and raise that amount
as the count turns plus. As illustrated in the point values of the cards, 2
through 6 are plus-value cards, meaning that since they’re valuable to the
casino, after they’re dealt (and are no longer available for play), the
running count improves in the player’s favor. Aces and tens have a
minus value. These are of value to the player and when dealt, they
reduce the running count, which reflects a player’s disadvantage.
Presented here are betting strategies for a 6-deck game dealt face up
and a 2-deck game dealt face down. Determine which type of game
you’ll be playing most of the time. If you live or play in Las Vegas, you
have access to 2-deck games. If you live or play in Atlantic City, the
choices are 6-and 8-deck games. Become proficient in one type of game.
The following two betting strategies are for the benefit of readers who
feel they have absorbed all the information they can handle. Varying
your bets as outlined and playing basic strategy provides a very slight
edge. However, to appreciate the real strength of a balanced count
system, a player should add the ingredients of the true-count conversion
and attending play variations (outlined in Chapters 7 and 8,
respectively).
Betting Strategy for a 2-Deck Game Dealt Face Down
To provide the best possibilities for profit, while at the same time not
being too obvious with bet movements, we use a bet range for the 2-deck
game of 1-6 units. If you’re playing at a $5-minimum-bet table, your
lowest bet in a minus count will be $5 (1 unit) and your highest bet in a
plus count will be $30 (6 units). Note that the numerical value of the
running count at the end of a round is used to determine the bet on the
round about to be dealt. The numbers:

Referring to the above numbers, perform the following drills:

Drill Number Seven—For this drill, you need two decks of cards and
either plastic poker chips or a box of paper clips (to use instead of chips).
Place a bet of 1 unit in front of you.
Take the top card of the two decks and place it face down off to your
left side. This card represents the burn card and you’ll place all cards
from completed rounds on top of this card, face down. This stack
represents the discard tray.
Deal yourself a hand of two cards face down, plus one card face
down and one face up for the dealer.
 Starting at 0, count the value of your two cards, along with the
dealer’s upcard.
Using basic strategy, either hit, stand, split, or double down and
count the value of any additional cards you deal to yourself.
Flip over the dealer’s hole card and count the value of that card.
In accordance with standard house rules (dealer stands on totals of 17
or higher and draws on totals of 16 or lower), deal required hit cards for
the dealer and count the value of each card as revealed.
You now have the running count to determine the number of units to
bet for the next round.
It is not necessary to perform actual payoffs on wins/losses, as this
exercise is strictly for determining bet size in accordance with running
count.
Deal subsequent rounds following the above steps until you run out
of cards. At that point, stop and determine the running count right there.
Based on that number, you should be able to figure out the value of the
burn card, which is the only card not included in the running count. If
the running count is -1, then the burn card should be a +1 value card,
bringing you to 0.
Shuffle and repeat the above procedure.
Drill Number Eight—Perform the same steps as in drill number seven,
except deal hands to two players.
After performing the exercise with two players a few times, add a
third player and continue until you’re comfortable maintaining a
running count and placing your bets with a full table of seven players.
Note: In live play, you should avoid playing at full tables at all costs.
This is strictly an exercise to strengthen your ability to scan cards on a
table.
Betting Strategy for a 6-Deck Game Dealt Face Up
A wider bet range is necessary for the 6-deck game. (When applying a
count system at full potential as outlined in Chapters 7 and 8, a
recommended betting range of 1-12 units can provide good possibilities
for profit.) Here, we’ll use a betting range of 1-6 units. If playing at a $5-
minimum-bet table, your lowest bet in a minus count is $5 (1 unit) and
your highest bet in a plus count is $30 (6 units). Remember, use the value
of the count at the end of a round to determine how much to bet on the
next round. The numbers:

Be aware that applying this betting scheme throughout an entire 6-

deck shoe is very aggressive. A player should not use such an aggressive
betting scheme unless well capitalized. It’s highly recommended that you
read on and learn either the 1-level unbalanced count presented later in
this chapter or the true-count conversion from Chapter 7.
Using these numbers, perform the drills number nine and ten, which
are the same as drills seven and eight above, except for the betting units.
If someone can deal to you, it’s easier to perform these drills.
Once you’ve mastered these skills, you can use them as learned up to
this point, while playing at a very small advantage (based on computer
simulations for 2-deck and 6-deck games using Karel Janecek’s Statistical
Blackjack Analyzer, or SBA. However, it’s not recommended that you use
this system without completing the next two chapters, where true counts
and play variations are discussed. These factors are necessary to gain full
benefit from a balanced count system. If, upon completing the next
chapter, you find it difficult to perform the true-count conversions,
consider learning a 1-level unbalanced count.
1-Level Unbalanced Count
Outlined in this section are the point values for a 1-level unbalanced
count. One benefit of an unbalanced count is the gain of some power,
without having to convert to a true count. This provides more ease in
applying the system. The difference in an unbalanced count versus a
balanced count is that you may start your count with a number, plus or
minus, other than 0, and you will always end on a different number—
thus, the unbalanced effect.
 The most popular unbalanced count is the K-O Count, detailed in the
book Knock-Out Blackjack by Olaf Vancura and Ken Fuchs. You can use all
the previous drills and betting schedules to learn K-O. However, instead
of starting your count at 0, you use the equation 4 - (4 x number of decks)
to derive the count’s starting point. In a 2-deck game, for example, your
starting count is -4. In a 6-deck game, start at -20. In all cases, counting
down the deck(s) results in an ending number of +4.

To move into a simple transition from the 1-level balanced count you
just worked with, we apply the same point values (as shown above),
except that 7s are also counted +1. In the same manner as with the
balanced Hi-Lo, keep a running count as the cards are played.

Following is a recommended bet sequence for a 2-deck game using

the K-O unbalanced count.
 On the following page is a recommended bet sequence for a 6-deck
game using the K-O unbalanced count. Note that the unbalanced
counting technique results in raised bets being made while the count is
still in negative territory. Have no fear, the count has been calibrated so
that the numbers accurately correlate to the recommended bet amounts.

Of course, there’s more to the count system than this. K-O comes with
multiple levels of sophistication and incorporates play variations that
will enhance the count’s success. All are available in Knock-Out Blackjack.
8
Learning Play Variations

Another benefit of card counting is using the knowledge of the cards

remaining in the deck(s) to determine how to play your hand. While
traditional basic strategy is the most advantageous method of play for
the non-counting player, there are times when the count will dictate a
deviation from the basic strategy play.
Plus Counts
The first and most crucial deviation from basic strategy is insurance.
Although the basic strategy player will never exercise the insurance
option, there are times (in a plus count) when taking insurance is the
more advantageous play. With a high plus count, there are probably
more tens than normal remaining in the deck(s), increasing the dealer’s
chance of receiving a natural.
A common variation in plus counts is that of standing on stiff hands,
such as 16 vs. ten or 15 vs. ten. In plus counts, the player has identified
that more tens remain to be dealt. Therefore, if you hit a stiff hand of 15
vs. ten, you would be more likely to draw a ten as the hit card, and bust.
Here a counting player might deviate from basic strategy and stand.
In plus counts, a player would double down and split pairs more
aggressively. Two such variations are to double down on a hand of 9 vs.
7, and split a pair of tens vs. dealer’s 5 or 6. Yes, you read that correctly.
At certain points in a plus count, the advantageous play is to split tens
and elicit selective comments from the other people at the table. The
reason for these plays is that you have identified more tens remaining in
the deck(s), which may cause the dealer to bust. For this reason, it’s
beneficial to get more money out on the table by using the double down
and pair split options more aggressively.
In minus counts, a player is more likely to hit stiff hands such as 12
vs. 4, or 13 vs. 2. In this instance, the counting player has identified that
more low-value cards remain in the deck(s). Taking a hit instead of
making the basic strategy play of standing, the player would have a
better opportunity to improve the stiff hand and create a pat hand.
Minus Counts
Here, a player is less likely to double down. In extreme minus counts,
the counting player will deviate from the basic strategy play of the
double down on 11 vs. ten, taking instead a hit card or cards. In this case,
the indication from the count is that more low-value cards remain in the
deck(s). By limiting oneself to drawing only one additional card on the
double-down option, there’s an increased chance that this one card will
be low in value, so it’s preferable to pass on the double-down option and
take as many hit cards as necessary.
Since different forms of counting methods are outlined in this book,
the play variations differ for each and you will have to learn them from
the sources that have been recommended here.
If you’re satisfied using a simple running count with the point values
of the Hi-Lo count system outlined in Chapter 6, you may use the
method presented as a running-count-only system, without play
variations. This calls for playing a strict basic strategy and varying your
bets according to the running count. All count systems, however, will be
more powerful if the proper play variations are learned and applied. To
demonstrate, play variations for the Hi-Lo are provided here (remember,
variations are different for different counts; do not use these variations
with a count other than the Hi-Lo).
 Play Variations for Hi-Lo 1-Level Balanced Count w/True-
Count Conversion Multi-Deck

These play variations for the Hi-Lo Count, known as the “Illustrious
18,” are recommended by Don Schlesinger as outlined in his book
Blackjack Attack: Playing the Pros’ Way.

Instructions—Make several copies of the following drill sheets and

perform each drill, writing in the count at which a play variation should
occur and what it should be. Perform the drills until you are able to
complete each one accurately, giving the responses without hesitation.
Then move on to the next drill. Answers to the drills for play variations
can be found after Drill Number Five.
Sequence to Learn Play Variations
• Start with the insurance variation.
• Learn the hit/stand variations.
• Learn hard-doubling decisions.
 • Learn pair-splitting decisions.
• The quiz sheets in this chapter should be taken in order. They are presented in a specific
order, to simplify the learning process.
• Use the Flash Card sample shown below to make cards for each of the play variations.
• Deal yourself hands with both a hole card and an upcard for the dealer, keep the
running count, convert to the true count, and make any play variations that the count
may dictate. It’s not necessary to place bets for this drill, as we’re not working with
betting strategies here.
• Mix up numbers 5, 6, and 7.

Note: As insurance is only one number, it’s not included in the drills
below. However, it’s essential that you know it well prior to moving on.
Drill Number One—Hit/Stand Variations
Drill Number Two—Hard-Doubling Variations

Drill Number Three—Splitting Variations

Drill Number Four—All Variations

Drill Number Five—To Vary or Not to Vary In this final drill, we have various
Drill Number Five—To Vary or Not to Vary In this final drill, we have various
hands to play, which may call for either a basic strategy decision or a
variation. The count will be indicated; your task is to decide how to play.

Additional play variations may be added to most count systems.

Those outlined in this chapter are some of the most beneficial. Playing
efficiency, based on the application of many play variations, is most
effective in single-deck play.
Answers to Drill Number One

Answers to Drill Number Two

Answers to Drill Number Three

Answers to Drill Number Four
Answers to Drill Number Five
9
Advanced Counts

If you’ve learned the systems outlined in the previous chapters and

want to attempt a more challenging method, one or more of the
following systems might appeal to you. While the systems presented in
this chapter provide more power, please keep in mind that they’re more
complex and if not applied with total accuracy can lead to costly errors. I
remind you once again to keep your ego in check and only use a system
that you can play with total accuracy.
The learning sequences of the PLS outlined in the previous chapters
can be applied to the systems presented here.
Zen Count
This 2-level balanced count is presented in Arnold Snyder’s first
edition of Blackbelt in Blackjack.
 Bet Sequence for 2-Deck Game

Bet Sequence for 6-Deck Game

Unbalanced Zen II Count

The legendary George C. took the Zen Count, converted it into an
unbalanced count, and presented it in his fine book, The Unbalanced Zen II
(from which the following information comes). The outlined bet schemes
and play variations may differ somewhat from what George presents,
but they will enable you to play at an advantage. For the complete
system as is was written and revised, it’s recommended that you refer to
The Unbalanced Zen II.
Start the running count at -4 per deck.
 Bet Sequence for 2-Deck Game

Bet Sequence for 6-Deck Game

Play variations for the Zen Count and Unbalanced Zen II Count are
available in the CV Blueprint companion software.
Expert-Level Counts
There are 3-level and even 4-level balanced-count systems available.
Some of these more complex systems may also require either a side count
of aces or a true-count conversion using half-decks or both. The
following is a learning sequence to help master these tasks.
Converting to True Count Using Half-Deck Segments In a 6-deck
game, let’s use a running count of +6.
Glancing at the discard tray, you note 3 decks already played. (You
can also attempt to “calibrate” the discard tray by half-decks if you’re
confident in your ability to do so.) Since the entire shoe began with 6
decks, you note there are 3 decks remaining to be played. If you double
that number, you have 6 half-decks remaining to be played.
Dividing the running count (+6) by the number of half-decks
remaining (6), you arrive at a true count of +1.
The first two drills apply to learning the true-count conversion in a 2-
deck game. More decks are added as we progress.
Before each set of drills is a divisor chart for the respective number of
decks for the game. You can also make up flash cards, as shown in the
sample below, which may be used to drill yourself for each number of
decks used.

Note: When you perform a true-count conversion and arrive at a

fraction, for the sake of being on the conservative side, round the count
down to the nearest whole number.
Conversion for 2-Deck Game

Drill Number One

Get a few dozen decks of used casino cards. As always, get the same
cards used in the casinos, so the deck thickness is exact.
Take three decks, count off 26 cards, and place a rubber band around
them, with a slip of paper that says “½ deck.” Count off 52 cards and
mark the pile “1 deck.” Mark the remaining cards “1½ decks.”
Practice looking at the piles to determine sizes. Do this until you’re
confident that you have it down.
Drill Number Two
Take two more decks and shuffle them together.
Start counting down the decks for a running count and stop at
random. Quickly look at the discards and state out loud how many half-
decks are in the discards, then how many half-decks remain to be dealt.
To check yourself for accuracy, hold the discard pile against a pile used
in drill number one. Repeat this step several times, stop at random,
determine the number of half-decks remaining, and then start over.
Repeat the above exercise, but after determining the number of half-
decks remaining, calculate the true count. Your thought flow should be
running count = __, number of half-decks played = __, number of half-
decks remaining = __, and when you divide the running count of__ by __
half-decks remaining, the true count = __. Repeat this until you’re
comfortable.
Finally, repeat the above, but instead of starting over, continue
counting down the deck, maintaining the running count. Stop again at
random, using the new running count and the number of decks
played/remaining to determine the new true count. Perform two or three
true-count conversions during the countdown of decks. It’s important to
retain the running count number through the whole countdown, so you
can continue where you left off to do the true-count calculations.
Now let’s increase to 4 decks.
Conversion for 4-Deck Game

Drill Number Three

Take the 2 decks you were just counting with and place a rubber band
around them, marking on a slip of paper “2 decks.” Then take 9 decks,
count off 2½ decks, 3 decks, and 3½ decks, marking the piles accordingly.
Practice looking at the piles to determine sizes. Do this until you are
confident that you have it down.
Drill Number Four
Take four more decks and shuffle them together.
Start counting down the decks for a running count and stop at
random. Quickly look at the discards and state out loud how many half-
decks are in the discards, then how many half-decks remain to be dealt,
and calculate the true count. In order to check for accuracy, hold the
discard pile against a pile used in drill number three. Repeat this step
several times: Stop at random, determine the number of half-decks
remaining, then start over.
Repeat the above, but instead of starting over, continue with the
running count, stop again at random to determine the new running
count, half-decks played/remaining and new true count. Do this “stop
and go” two to four times throughout the decks. In this step, you’re
performing a different sizing of true-count conversions each time
throughout the countdown of the decks. It’s important to retain the
running-count number through the whole countdown, so you can
continue where you left off to do the true-count calculations.
You can perform the above drills for 6-deck and 8-deck games,
referring to the charts on the following page for initial guidance.
Conversion for 6-Deck Game

Conversion for 8-Deck Game

Drill Number Five

Using the conversion numbers for a 6-deck game, based on the
information in the two columns provided in this drill, calculate the true
count and write it in the third column next to each item. Answers to
drills number 5, 6, and 7 can be found at the end of this chapter.
 Example—The running count is 15 and 3½ decks have been played.
For 3½ decks played, 2½ decks remain, giving a divisor of 5
(representing five half-decks). Dividing 15 by 5, the true count is 3.

Drill Number Six

Now let’s try the exercise with a 4-deck game:

Drill Number Seven

And finally, we work our way back to the 2-deck game:
 Side Count of Aces
Some card-counting systems assign a zero value for the ace and
require that the player keep a separate side count of played/unplayed
aces in the deck(s). Knowing how many aces are left in the deck(s) is
extremely valuable for betting purposes, though for playing purposes,
the ace has little use. For this reason, some of the higher-level systems
include this feature. In order to provide a flavor for this task, I outline the
procedures to practice the art of maintaining an ace side count. Please be
forewarned that this is an extremely complex task. Most players do not
attempt this, as it can lead to numerous errors, thus wiping out much of
one’s advantage.
Determining Normal Number of Aces Played
Since there are 4 aces per deck, the first step is to master the skill of
determining whether the number of aces remaining to be dealt is above
or below normal. An example: In a 6-deck game, 3 decks have been dealt
and you’ve counted 12 aces also dealt. The “ace factor” in this case would
be “normal.” Therefore, an ace adjustment to the running count would
not be necessary.
However, if in the same game, after 3 decks dealt only 2 aces have
been seen, obviously the remaining decks in play have a high
concentration of aces. Since the normal number of aces for 3 decks is 12,
if only 2 have appeared, you have 10 aces above normal in the remaining
decks.
Adjusting the Running Count with the Ace Factor Let’s say the point value you
assign for the purpose of side counting of aces is 1. Your running count,
without factoring in the aces, is, say, +6. This represents your unadjusted
running count. The next step is to add the ace count to this unadjusted
running count to determine the adjusted running count. Taking this example,
with 10 extra aces, the adjusted running count is +16.
Converting to True Count
The adjusted running count is then converted to true count for betting
purposes only. After making this conversion and placing the bet, the
player reverts to the unadjusted running count, which is next converted
to true count for playing purposes.
The Sequence
Establish running count (unadjusted) and retain this number.
Determine the ace factor by keeping a separate count of aces and
noting if the content of the remaining cards is above or below normal in
aces.

Thinking Sequence for Establishing True Count • Establish

and retain Running Count.
• Look at discard tray and determine # of half-decks dealt.
• Determine # of half-decks remaining.
• Establish divisor number.
• Divide Running Count by divisor and establish True Count.

Add the ace factor to the unadjusted running count to determine the
adjusted running count.
Convert the adjusted running count to true count and determine your
bet size.
Revert back to the unadjusted running count and convert that
number to true count to determine playing strategy.
Confused yet? This method is not essential to playing with an
advantage. It should be utilized only by those who can realistically
perform the quick and accurate calculations necessary to accomplish the
tasks.
Methods for Keeping a Side Count
Players have their own methods and tricks for maintaining side
counts. When I used to side count aces, I kept a wad of chewing gum in
my mouth and moved the gum to different parts of my mouth to mark
the number of aces. Some people use the chips in front of them (this can
be somewhat obvious), while others position their feet in a certain
manner to determine the number. If you do try keeping a side count, be
creative, but don’t be obvious.
Answers to Drill Number Five

Answers to Drill Number Six

Answers to Drill Number Seven
10
Putting It All Together

In the previous chapters, we learned how to vary our bets in

accordance with the running count and true count and how to vary our
play of hands, based on these counts. We can now incorporate a final
review, dealing hands and combining the betting/playing strategies,
while maintaining the running and true counts.
At this time you should possess the ability to:
• Make basic strategy plays without hesitation, and count down a
deck of cards in 25 seconds or less.
• Maintain a running count, while hands are being dealt.
• Convert the running count to true count after each round, or use
the unbalanced count system.
• Place appropriate bets in accordance with the count.
• Make proper play variations to basic strategy, based on the count.
For a final review of all the acquired skills, deal yourself hands as if
there’s a full table of seven players. While playing your one hand, vary
your bets and play of hands in accordance with the count.
Once you feel that you have a grasp of the skills necessary, you’re
ready to make your initial trip for live casino play. It’s essential that you
do not rush into this until you’re performing your drills flawlessly.
Thanks to modern technology, nowadays computer software programs
are readily available for practice. In addition to the CV Blueprint
companion software, one such program is Casino Vérité, which is
referenced in Chapter 37. I recommend that you put in an hour of
practice daily to ensure that you’re on track.
“So,” you ask, “how long will it take before I can hit the tables?”
There’s no standard answer to this question. The amount of time
devoted to practice and training is an individual preference. The
following suggestions for practice and training schedules take into
account all of the training tools referenced in the previous chapters. I
haven’t included any benchmarks for time frames. Rather, I recommend
using the drills available in CV Blueprint or Casino Vérité as a skills-check
to determine your readiness to progress to the next level.
Weekday Training After Work or School
Devote one hour each weekday for training and practice.
or
Train every other day (Monday, Wednesday, and Friday) for one-two
hours.
or
Alternate the above two training schedules, going five days for week
one, then three days for week two.
Weekend Training
This should not be treated as a crash-course training method. If, from
your personal experience, you have the patience for intense training in a
somewhat condensed manner, then you may wish to consider weekend
training.
On both Saturday and Sunday, train for two hours in the morning,
then two hours in the afternoon.
Full-Day Training
This somewhat resembles a crash-course training style and I don’t
recommend it for most. First, it’s unrealistic to think that you can spend
6-8 hours learning the material and be completely ready to take on the
casinos. So, if you’re looking for a crash-course, this isn’t it. Second, from
my experience in training people (in many different fields), I find that the
average person can absorb only so much information in a single sitting.
Full-day training may be effective as a “final test,” after you’ve become
fluent in all the necessary skills acquired from part-time training.
However, if you don’t take my word for it, or happen to be that
exceptional person, here’s a compromise:
One day per week, train for separate two-hour sessions each in the
morning, afternoon, and evening.
Mix It Up, Get Creative and Have Some Fun
In most cases, no one knows the best way for you to learn except you.
You have your own style, which you probably developed in your
academic studies and carried onward. As such, you can combine the
above training methods in any way that works for you. There are no
rules and there should be no hurry to hit the casinos until you’re ready.
Trust me, the casinos will still be there. Take your time, get creative, and
make your training an enjoyable experience.
 The
Green Zone
12
Money Management

The next stage comes after you have logged several hours of low-
stakes play and are comfortable playing in a live casino environment. At
this point, you may be ready to increase your playing stakes. However,
there are several things you should consider first.
Can you afford to put the required bankroll at risk, without jeopardizing your
normal living expenses?
This requires serious consideration. On this point, I must make a
strong suggestion (which basically means you’d better do this!) and tell you
to perform a thorough review of your current finances and determine how
much money you can put aside without having any need for it in the
near future. Funds for a down payment on a house, college tuition for
your children, etc. should not be touched. Money of this type should be
in separate accounts for the intended purposes.
After reviewing your finances, you may find that you don’t have the
proper funds readily available for a sufficient bankroll. If this is the case,
my recommendation is to stick to low stakes. Perhaps at a later date, you
may have the necessary funds for the next level of play. Do not attempt to
play higher-stakes blackjack with an insufficient bankroll.
Once you’ve determined you have adequate funds, take those funds
and open a separate bank account or investment account. This will be
your personal “21” account. After each trip, deposit your winnings (you
hope) into this account. On the other hand, if this account goes to zero
balance, you should consider taking a break from playing. (This is also a
good idea, even if you determine that you can only afford playing low
stakes, as this bank account has the potential to grow into a sufficient
amount for higher stakes in time.) How do you determine what is
sufficient funding for a bankroll?
Our realistic goal is to play in a manner that will maximize our
potential to win money, while at the same time minimize our risk. Most
count systems outline a bankroll requirement and betting scheme that,
when followed, give the player a better than average chance to achieve
this goal. Betting and playing in accordance with the methods outlined in
the count system and based on your bankroll (as determined by the count
system), you may have a 19 out of 20 chance (95%) of doubling your
bankroll in the long run, with a 1 out of 20 chance (5%) of losing your
entire bankroll in the long run.
Note: The “long run” is a term used rather loosely in gambling, as it’s
difficult to determine accurately the number of hands or hours one needs
to play to get into the long run. An easy way to view the long run is to
understand that as you increase the number of hours of accurate play in
accordance with the 5% risk of ruin, your chances of succeeding increase.
Some count systems have rather complex formulas that determine the
optimal bet range for a given bankroll. Most systems simply indicate that
after you determine your desired bet range, take your maximum bet and
multiply it by 100. This total should be your bankroll. You can also
reverse the process and take the funds you have available for a bankroll
and divide that figure by 100 to determine your maximum bet. Based on
that number, you would further develop the optimal betting scheme. All
this ensures that you’re playing close to the 5% risk of ruin.
What happens if you should lose half your bankroll?
If you lose half your bankroll, I recommend that you stop to evaluate
a few things: Are you keeping the count and playing accurately?
Are you betting in accordance with your outlined range?
Are you selecting games with playable conditions?
Are you being cheated? (See Chapter 16 on cheating.) After
determining that you’re playing accurately, selecting playable games,
and being dealt an honest game, you’ll come to the realization that
you’ve hit one of those fluctuations that exist in the game, putting you at
this loss. When this occurs, you should stop playing, reevaluate your
available bankroll, and revise your betting range accordingly to continue
playing within the 5% risk of ruin. The following is a brief illustration:
Starting Bank = $10,000
 Betting Range = $10–$100
After X hours of play, you’ve lost $5,000. Stop. Reevaluate the bank.
New Starting Bank = $5,000
New Betting Range = $5–$50
How do you determine the amount of money to allocate for each playing
session?
You can use the same formula outlined in the previous chapter to
determine the amount of money for each session. However, it’s a good
idea to add an additional factor here: Keep two additional maximum bets
for each session. The purpose of this is to provide a cushion in case you
have a situation calling for a split or double down where you’ll need
additional cash. Take note that this additional cash should be considered
reserve, only for this purpose.
The above illustrates a most simple form of money management. For
more precision in establishing methods of money management, there are
some excellent tools on the market. One product I use and recommend is
Blackjack Risk Manager 2002, which was developed by John Auston. This
software is easy to use and useful to the serious player. Also
recommended is Don Schlesinger’s book, Blackjack Attack: Playing the
Pros’ Way, which explains bankroll issues in a clear and detailed manner.
13

Interaction with Casino Personnel

While playing, you interact with casino personnel. This chapter gives
you a basic idea of the “who’s who” in the business.
Most casino employees work a basic eight-hour shift. Since most
casinos are open 24 hours, there are three shifts. Day shift is noon–8 p.m.,
swing shift is 8 p.m.–4 a.m., and graveyard shift is 4 a.m.–noon. Note:
These times vary from casino to casino.
Here’s the basic chain of command within the casino staff:
Dealers
Obviously, you’ll have the most interaction with these folks. Most
have completed a course or training program, provided by a school
specializing in instruction of dealing casino games or an in-house casino
training program. Dealers are usually trained in more than one casino
game. It’s not uncommon to see the same dealer who dealt you a
blackjack game one day working the roulette wheel the next day.
During the dealer’s shift and depending on the casino’s procedures
and policies, the dealers may rotate the tables where they deal, as well as
take specified breaks after dealing for a certain period of time. Relief
dealers fill in at the tables while the regular dealer is on break. It’s
common to see a dealer working your table for up to one hour, then
taking a 20-minute break. There are several reasons for this.
One of the most important is that dealing, standing on one’s feet and
performing the duties involved in the job, is tedious and mentally tiring.
Considering the accuracy required for all the payoffs of winning wagers,
along with the totaling of the numerous hands dealt, it’s wise to give
dealers regular breaks to minimize the chance of their making errors.
Some casinos also fear that if a dealer stays too long at the same table, he
or she may get too friendly with some of the players. Since most casinos
encourage dealers to practice good customer relations and be friendly at
all times, some are concerned that a dealer may get too friendly with a
player, and be tempted to provide “help” for a player. Such “help” is not
only against casino rules, but a crime punishable by a prison term (more
in Chapter 16).
Dealers are just regular folks trying to make a living, as in any other
job. Some are there just for the paycheck, while others aspire to work
their way up the ranks. One thing to realize is that dealers have a
sometimes difficult chore, as they’re the front line interacting with the
public. Dealers have to put up with players who lose, then blame them.
They deal with boors and drunks. The best approach in interacting with
dealers is to be friendly and courteous. Say “please” and “thank you,”
make eye contact, and smile. When you’re losing, don’t blame them.
You’ll find that interacting with dealers is similar to interacting with
front-line employees in many other businesses. Bank tellers or restaurant
servers are good examples. Some are friendly and talkative, while others
are quiet and seem as if they just want to finish their shift, get their
paycheck and go home. It’s best to treat them all with courtesy.
If a dealer makes an error (in favor of the casino), the way you point it
out can have an effect on your future relationship with this dealer. Many
players are blunt, abrupt, and harsh in pointing out a dealer’s mistake. A
recommended approach is to smile and say, “Excuse me, but would you
mind taking a second look at [whatever the situation may be]. I may be
missing something, but it looks like [say whatever may be incorrect]. I’d
appreciate it.” Say, “Thank you” if you’re correct or “I’m sorry; thanks
for checking” if you’re wrong. This may sound like a lesson in etiquette,
but it helps to maintain this attitude. If a dealer should make an error in
your favor, use your own judgment.
Remember that being nice can pay off!
Floorpersons
Next up the ladder, floorpersons are assigned to oversee a few tables
within the pit. They’re responsible for watching the dealers at those
tables, ensuring that house procedures are followed. The floorperson, in
all probability, has previously worked as a dealer and was promoted to
this position. They often interact with players at the tables.
 When you first enter a game, it’s common for a floorperson to
approach you and ask whether you have a player’s VIP card or if you’d
like to be rated (meaning have the pit record your play to qualify for
casino comps). When this occurs, ideally, you should already have a
player’s card. If you don’t, it’s a good idea to sign up for one. When you
get rated, you become eligible for comps, most commonly meals; this
helps cut down on expenses. Also, it looks suspicious if you’re playing
decent money and refuse to get rated. An informed floorperson knows
that card counters like to avoid contact with the pit staff, and refusing to
be rated is typical of a card counter’s actions. And there are methods you
can use to get rated without using your true name. If you take this
approach, in the unfortunate event you get backed-off from the game
(more on this in Chapter 14), they don’t have much information on you.
Other functions of a floorperson are: Write out markers for credit
players; fill out rating slips for rated players; check the chip trays on the
tables to keep track of how much the table may be winning or losing;
arrange for “fills” to the chip trays; perform lots of paperwork
accompanying all the above; and watch for any dealer and/or player
cheating or stealing.
The floorperson may come over to chat with you periodically. When
this occurs, you should make every effort to look that person straight in
the eye, smile, and carry on the conversation. Ask some questions; say
something about yourself (whatever you want to make up); talk about
sports, shows, and restaurants. These are the usual things discussed by
regular players, which is what you’re trying to appear to be. While this is
happening, you can still maintain the count. If, like many others, you
find it difficult to talk and maintain the count at the same time, just flat
bet and play basic strategy until the floorperson leaves. If he doesn’t
leave, ask for a meal comp. That way the person has to step away to fill
out a comp form for you! The floorperson usually has limited authority
in issuing comps. In most casinos, the floorperson can issue a buffet or
coffee shop comp without requiring a higher level of approval.
In many casinos, if a floorperson suspects a player of being a card
counter, this suspicion will first be reported to the pit boss.
Pit Bosses
Pit Bosses
Pit bosses are responsible for all activities related to the tables within
their assigned pit. They keep records of all fills, markers, and drops (cash
going into the drop boxes); authorize any comps for rooms, gourmet
meals, or shows; schedule breaks for floorpersons; complete endless
paperwork; and have some interaction with players. In some of the larger
casinos, the pit bosses’ performance evaluation may include the ability to
cultivate new business for the casino.
When a high roller is playing, pit bosses usually make a point of
introducing themselves, handing over their business card and saying,
“Let me know if you need anything.” How the high roller reacts after
that determines whether the pit boss will hang around to chat or step
away. This is based on the marketing strategies taught to the casino pit
staff.
Generally, high rollers come in two basic types. Some want to feel
important and be catered to. They want to impress everyone around that
they’re high rollers. They want the pit boss to pay attention to them.
Others don’t have such ego demands, are more subdued and low-key,
and might even appear to be shy. In this case, the pit boss desires to
demonstrate that he’s part of a classy operation that caters to plenty of
high rollers and doesn’t need to dote on the players. Bosses will leave
this high roller alone, checking up only when called upon.
If a floorperson reports that a player might be a card counter, the pit
boss either observes the player personally or notifies surveillance to
observe the player, or both.
Shift Manager
All pit bosses on a shift report to the shift manager. Requests for
higher-level comps, such as airfare reimbursements or full room, food,
and beverage (“RFB”) comps require, in many cases, the shift manager’s
approval. Shift managers normally don’t have a great deal of interaction
with the players. They do pay attention to high rollers who bet at or
above a specific level.
Casino Manager
The shift managers for all three shifts report directly to the casino
manager, who runs the entire gaming operation. The casino manager
normally interacts with only the highest of high rollers playing in the
casino. In this case, the casino manager ensures that the player is
extended the highest level of comps the casino has to offer.
Casino Hosts
The above chain of command—dealers, floorpersons, and bosses—is
representative of the gaming operations area. In the marketing area, you
may have contact with hosts.
While you’re playing, probably trying to keep track of the running
count, a well-dressed man or woman with a huge smile may approach
you, extend a hand, and say “Hi, my name is ____ and I’m a casino host
here.” The host will give you a business card, ask you some questions
about yourself, and just make some generally brief (you hope) small-talk.
When this occurs, you can stop playing (if the count is negative), look the
host straight in the eye, and talk. Ask questions about the casino, about a
line of credit, about the restaurants. Keep talking until the shuffle (if you
can). Since the host wants you to put money in action, if it becomes
evident that you’re distracted, he’ll leave.
If this visit occurs during a positive count, stand up to shake hands
with the host and position yourself so you can easily shift your attention
back and forth from the table to the host without too much head-turning.
Take your time when trying to keep the count, play your hand, and talk
to the host. It may appear to be a difficult task to juggle all this, but it can
be accomplished with some practice. To learn more about the inner
workings of casino marketing, I recommend reading Deke Castleman’s
Whale Hunt in the Desert.
Casino Surveillance
Throughout the casino are many cameras and two-way mirrors from
above the casino floor, manned by individuals monitoring the activities
of all the customers, as well as monitoring casino personnel working the
floor. This form of surveillance, known as the “eye in the sky,” is
responsible for detecting anyone stealing or cheating, any dealers
deviating from proper procedures, and players counting cards or
utilizing any advantage techniques. Some casinos hire former cheats,
who know just about every trick in the book, to work in their
surveillance departments.
The surveillance staff watches a video monitor of any given table.
They can monitor, film, and photograph any player(s) and tables(s) as
instructed by any pit personnel for further review. Most casinos film
every table. Films are normally reviewed only when deemed necessary.
Cashier
You’ll visit the cashier “cage” to exchange your chips for cash. Pay
attention to ensure accuracy when the cashier is counting both your chips
and cash.
Cocktail Servers
Drink runners visit the tables every so often, and you can order a
cocktail, beer, wine, soda, coffee, or whatever your pleasure. Note: Avoid
drinking bottled water, as the word in the pit and surveillance is that this
is the preferred drink of card counters. Remember to tip!
Tipping
Let’s discuss how and when to tip the dealer.
Dealers make a portion of their income from tips, which are referred
to in the casino industry as “tokes” (short for “token”). The pit staff
commonly believes that card counters don’t tip. When winning, you may
place an occasional modest toke for the dealer. This is done in three
ways.
You outright lay a chip on the table and tell the dealer it is a tip. Place
a chip in front of your bet, indicating that win or lose, it’s a bet for the
dealer on that hand. Though this method is most common, it’s far from
best for two reasons. First, if you win the hand, the dealer is required by
the house to take the winnings and deposit them into the toke box. He
doesn’t have the option to “let it ride” and benefit if you have a hot
streak. Second, if the hand turns out where you need to double down or
split, you end up putting out more money for the dealer’s original bet, as
well as your own. You’re not required to match the tip portion on a
double down. Often you feel obliged to, but it isn’t obligatory. On the
other hand, it’s good to tip in this manner if a boss is watching and you
want to demonstrate that you’re tipping.
Here’s a good method for toking the dealer. Place a chip on top of
your bet, then lean over and tell the dealer, “You’ve got something riding
on this hand.” If you win the hand, give the dealer the one winning chip
and leave the original chip for the next hand. You may even ask the
dealer, “How about we let it ride?” In this method, you control the tip,
rather than the dealer having to follow house procedures. Actually, you
don’t need to say anything to the dealer when placing the chip on top. If
you need to double or split, then win, you don’t have to feel obligated to
give up more winning chips. Remember that our edge is small and
overtipping can eat into profits.
If you’re in a losing session, don’t tip at all. You’re not winning,
therefore you have no money to tip and shouldn’t. Period.
The majority of casinos require dealers to pool all the tips. Why? For
reporting purposes, there’s consistency in the dollar amounts of tips
evenly distributed amongst the dealers. Dealers are naturally hesitant to
understate the amount of tips earned for tax purposes, knowing it’s on
record what all dealers earned from the tip pool during any designated
shift. In addition, a dealer working a $100-minimum table generally
earns more tips than a dealer at a $5-minimum table. Pooling of tips
creates a fair distribution based on hours worked. Finally, there’s less
incentive for a dealer to be in cahoots with a generous tipper, since the
dealer doesn’t get to keep all of the tokes personally.
Some casinos still allow dealers to keep their own tips. If you are
playing in such a casino, tipping can become a more strategic part of
your game.
Here are a few finer points on tipping.
Wait for a positive count before placing a chip for the dealer.
A lot of people, as a rule, tip the dealer when receiving a natural.
Don’t do this too often, because you don’t want the dealer to get in the
habit of expecting a tip every time you receive a natural.
When playing 1-deck or 2-deck games where a cut card isn’t usually
used to indicate the shuffle point, a good time to place a chip for the
dealer is deep in the deck(s) during a positive count, where the dealer
may normally shuffle. Upon placing the chip, say to the dealer, “This is
for you; I feel a blackjack coming out right now.”
 When a floorperson is watching the game, it may be beneficial to
place a chip on top of yours, and if you win the hand, toss the winning
chip to the dealer. If asked why you don’t place the bet on the side for the
dealer, say, “If I did that, the dealers would never get any money from
me with my luck here today.”
When initially buying in, if you’re playing at a $25-minimum table,
ask the dealer to break down one $25 chip into five $5 chips. This might
lead the dealer to think that the $5 chips are for tipping. At a $5 table,
break down a $5 chip into dollars. Sometimes, by creating this
perception, you have a dealer on your side before you even place your
first bet!
When talking to a dealer, find out when the next scheduled break is.
A good time to tip can be right before the break, especially if the relief
dealer sees you placing a tip up. Dealers also are known to say “Thanks
for the bets” upon leaving the table for break. This can be an indication to
the relief dealer that you’re a tipper.
Remember that your edge is small and overtipping can wipe it out.
Time your tips accordingly and place those extra chips out there
modestly.
14

Heat, Casino Countermeasures, and

Camouflage
In the previous chapter, we outlined the roles of the various members
of the casino staff. Because casinos are in business to win money from
players, they become concerned when a player begins winning from
them regularly. Having a built-in house advantage, the casinos know
that they’ll win in the long run. The bosses are aware that some players
attempt to implement various methods to shift the odds in their own
favor. When this occurs, they scrutinize the players carefully.
How Much is too Much?
It’s important to know the type of casino in which you’re playing. In
some places, betting green $25 chips sets off alarms in the pit; in others,
bets of $100 don’t get as much as a blink. All casinos have a certain
“choke point” based on an amount of a player win, which prompts
intense scrutiny. You need to identify this dollar amount and incorporate
the knowledge of it into your game plan. You don’t want to bet green
chips in a club that doesn’t maintain a supply of black $100 chips in the
chip trays! When playing in a club, be certain not to exceed what may be
the acceptable stakes for that club. Your level of betting must fit in with
the club you are playing. But that’s not all that needs to fit in.
An Early Experience
When I first started card counting, much of my initial practice was
playing for small stakes in clubs with only six tables and a $200
maximum bet. They didn’t stock $100 black chips in the chip trays. Early
one morning I entered one such casino, dressed in a silk jogging suit and
a fanny pack, looking clean-cut. The door to the front entrance of this
place hadn’t even closed behind me when the pit boss zeroed in on me.
After a quick scan of the other patrons, I knew that I looked out of place.
His eyes followed me all the way to the table as I bought in for a
whopping $200. As I took a first-base seat, he proceeded to pull up a
stool and sit over my right shoulder, watching my play. I played,
carefully spreading my bets, even though he was sitting right there.
After playing for almost 90 minutes, I suddenly yawned and
stretched my arms. The boss then commented to me, “It’s tough work,
huh?”
I responded, “I’ve been playing all night.”
“How long have you been studying the game?” he asked.
“My brother taught me a little about how to play. He learned when
he was in the service.” I then asked him a little about how long he’d
worked in casinos.
A short while later, an interesting thing happened. The dealer, when
paying me on a winning bet, put an extra chip on top of the winnings. I
paused before making any motions. Immediately, the boss called over to
the dealer. When the dealer looked up, I pointed to the overpayment,
then looked back at the boss. My unspoken message to him was that
maybe I’m counting cards, but I’m not a thief. After that, he more or less
left me alone. As I was leaving, he even asked me if I was hungry and
wanted a comp to the coffee shop!
Who is this Person?
When you first approach a table and make your initial buy-in, a
floorperson will usually check you out. Therefore, the amount you buy in
for should be in accordance with the type of casino you’re in. You should
be attired so you blend in with the other patrons, in accordance with the
stakes you’re playing. Nothing stands out more than an intelligent-
looking, early 20ish, Caucasian male, wearing a fanny pack, buying in for
large amounts, and betting $100 black chips (see the typical card
counter’s profile later in this chapter). The initial observation may
continue into the first few hands you play. It’s important to remember
that old saying about first impressions.
The stereotype of a card counter is a player who wants little to no
attention from the pit. Counters, when asked if they’d like a VIP card or
to be rated, usually decline. Your typical gambler, on the other hand,
wants to be rated to take advantage of all the comps he can get. So here’s
the tip. The move you should make when initially arriving at the table is
to actively seek out a floorperson and ask to be rated. If you don’t use
your real name, be certain to remember the name you’re using in that
casino. When making your first few bets, bet a bit higher than what your
minimum bet would be. For example, instead of betting 2 units, maybe
come off with 3 units. If the game has decent rules, you won’t be giving
up much advantage by doing so, in consideration of what you may be
gaining when moving your bets later on. If you do a good job in your
camouflage, you should win some money and get a nice comp or two.
Keep in mind that it’s the casino’s job to know who its patrons are. If
you’re betting $100 chips or higher, depending on the casino, the bosses
may get curious about you. Even if you don’t give a name to get rated,
they can still maintain information on you: your photograph, physical
description, and session results. Keeping this in mind, if you hit a casino
for a nice win without providing your name, then return to the same
casino shortly thereafter, they may have the ability to pull up
information based on your last visit, regardless. Remember, they have
cameras! Overall, when a player declines to be rated, it raises a red flag.
For that reason, I recommend getting rated. However, if your style is to
go this route, it’s imperative that you develop creative methods to stay
under the radar.
Use of Different Names
If you’re playing at levels that won’t trigger cash transactions in the
neighborhood of $10,000, you have a good shot at getting away with
using some different names in casinos when being rated. Just be certain
that you don’t trip yourself up and forget what name you’re using in the
current casino (I’ve heard stories of this happening). This practice serves
several purposes. If you’re identified as a counter, the name under which
you’re playing will be conveyed to any other casino, to the extent that
casinos communicate information to one another. When using different
names in casinos, exercise caution, since casino personnel are known to
change clubs frequently.
One of the better methods of using different names is to use a
different spelling of your real name. It’s best to change the first or second
letter of your surname. The reason for this is so the two names do not
appear right next to each other when someone is looking at a player list.
Example: Jankowitz or Yankowitz. Bird or Byrd. You can add further
distance between the two names by using a post-office-box address on
one of the names. Get creative!
Obtaining a Casino Players Card
In my experience, it’s been safer to get a players card with a bogus ID
from a clerk at the players club than at the table. The sweet ladies at these
desks appear to be less suspicious than the pit staff. In this case, you can
get away with providing minimal information. The only caution is if
your cash buy-ins approach US$10,000, which triggers the pit to see if
they have your driver’s license and Social Security numbers on file. If
you’re playing at such levels, think about calling a host before you arrive
to ensure they have all the necessary information for government-
reporting purposes. If not, state that you’ll bring copies of this info for
their records. Bring photocopies only, for their convenience. See if they’ll
accept the information by Fax. Whatever routine you use, you control the
situation and provide information under your terms. This goes with my
overall philosophy of being prepared before I get to the tables, rather
than getting caught with my pants down while I’m playing at the casino.
Moving Your Bets
You should do some scouting, prior to your initial play, as to what
type of bets will draw attention from the pit. If you increase your bet to a
certain level, the dealer may be required to alert the pit about it. The
dealer may call out to the pit certain bet amounts. This may cause the pit
to observe your play, or more likely prompt them to phone surveillance
to monitor your play. If and when this happens, here are some things
you may want to do (other than leave).
Ask for a cocktail.
Continue moving your bets, but very subtly.
Ask the floorperson for a comp.
If you’re winning, place a bet for the dealer (in this instance,
alongside your bet).
Talk to the floorperson.
Talk to the dealer.
Talk to other players.
Playing Your Hands
Conduct your play as though most pit and surveillance personnel are
in tune with perfect basic strategy play and are able to identify a player
applying it. Some typical plays that communicate that you’ve “read the
book” are never taking insurance, hitting 16 vs. ten, hitting 12 vs. 2 or 3,
and hitting a hand of A,7 against a dealer’s upcard of 9, ten, or A. One of
the biggest red flags used to identify card counters is when a player who,
after not insuring a natural or a hand of 20, all of a sudden starts insuring
stiff hands. A player who uses the surrender option properly may be
suspect to an alert staff.
A risky play is splitting tens. In addition to getting pit attention, it
aggravates other players at the table. The word in the pit is that only two
types of players split tens: either complete morons or card counters. I’m
not saying that you should never split tens; at times your count will call
for it. Making these plays is part of your edge. However, this is one that
can bring immediate attention, which can lead to heat. Here are some
tips on how to get away with splitting tens.
With minimum bets up, split tens early in the session, giving the
message that you do so at will, and not solely as the count dictates.
If there is a loud-mouthed, know-it-all, or otherwise obnoxious player
at the table, whisper to the dealer or the floorperson, “I bet if I split tens
this person will leave.” When the opportunity arises, wink to either of
them, and split those tens!
 If you have a play calling for splitting tens and you’re getting
attention from the pit, make it your last play.
When You Start Winning
If the bosses see that a player is winning and doing well enough to
reach the choke point, they may wonder why that player is winning.
Most casinos require a call to surveillance once a certain win level is
reached.
To determine if a player is cheating, pit personnel are instructed to:
Check if player is pinching (removing chips) or capping (adding
chips) bets.
Check if dealer is doing anything outside of procedures,
overpaying, or passing information to player.
Check the cards to see if there are any unusual markings, bends, or
warps.
Check to ensure the deck(s) is complete.
Pit personnel are also trained to suspect that a player could be using a
“device,” such as a concealed computer, to keep track of the cards played
and determine perfect play. It’s a felony to use a device when playing in
most casinos. The best-known concealed blackjack computers are housed
in a pair of shoes. With this knowledge, the pit will look for any unusual
movements of the player’s feet, or unusually large shoes that may appear
to be out of proportion with the player’s height. Such a player needs to
sit in an unnatural position. A common ploy is for a casino employee to
walk behind the player and pretend to drop something, such as a chip, to
get a close look at the player’s shoes.
To determine if a player is counting cards, the pit and surveillance
use various methods. Here’s a sequence of methods used, along with
some of the countermeasures.
Two members of the pit staff observing the game from within.
Someone observing the game from behind the table.
A casino employee at the table, posing as a player, observing your
game.
Observing the player’s betting pattern. If a player is noticed
increasing a bet after several small cards appeared in the previous round
dealt, the floorperson may scan the discards.
A common countermeasure is to instruct the dealer to shuffle
immediately after the player increases the bet size. If the player pulls
back the bet, it confirms the pit’s suspicions. It’s crucial to leave the bet
out when the dealer shuffles. Some players think it’s a good idea to split
the bet into two hands when this occurs. The pit is looking for you to do
something, as they’ve read the books that suggest this move.
If you notice the pit initially observing your game, then making a
phone call, there’s a chance that surveillance is being put on your play.
After such a phone call, you may notice your table appears to be
unsupervised. Guess again! These days, surveillance uses different
computerized methods to track a player. Using any of these methods,
they will run a skills check to determine if the player is employing a
card-counting system. If they’re performing such a live evaluation on
your play, you may even notice the dealer slowing down the speed of the
game (on instructions from a supervisor) to facilitate an evaluation. It’s
my understanding that they’ll run this test for a minimum of a half-hour.
If surveillance makes you as a counter, the phone will ring in the pit (the
call may even go to a different pit as a relay), and a decision will be made
as to what actions will be taken. I suggest playing short sessions. Leave
the club before they have the opportunity to get a handle on your play.
(See “Surveillance Techniques,” for some updated methods.)
You Wanna Be in Movies?
The phone call has been made and your play is now being observed
by surveillance. All of a sudden, the floorperson(s) watching your game
is nowhere in sight. At this time, you think you’re safe and can spread to
your heart’s content. Right? Wrong! Your play is being monitored from
above. Here’s the textbook procedure, used by many casinos, that they
follow before backing off a suspected card counter:
Player is observed by floorperson and suspected of counting cards
(usually after 15 minutes).
Floorperson informs pit boss, who steps in and observes player (5–
15 minutes).
Pit boss, who has reason to believe that the player is counting
cards, phones surveillance.
 cards, phones surveillance.
Surveillance monitors the player for a minimum of 30 minutes, then
phones the pit boss, informing the following:
If the player is counting cards, using any advantage play, or
cheating.
If the player is listed in the Griffin Book, Biometrica Book, or the
casino’s own “book” as a known card counter or cheating player.
How much the player stands to win from the casino per hour,
based on the amount of the player’s bets.
Based on the above information, pit boss makes the decision on
whether to back off the player, permit further play, or refer the
matter to a shift supervisor for a decision.
Barring from Play
Once the decision has been made not to allow you to play blackjack in
a casino, you may be given the message in various ways, enumerated
below, from hints to formal notification.
Deal Around You—A floorperson will instruct the dealer to deal
around you, not allowing you to play, without saying a word to you. The
floorperson is telling you that the casino doesn’t want your action and
you should pick up your chips and leave. Do just that.
Can We Buy You Dinner?—A nice way of being told that a club doesn’t
want your action is when a floorperson approaches you and tells you
something to the effect that, “You seem to be a little too tough on us.
Why not have dinner on us, then try playing at another casino?”
Shuffling Up or Moving Up the Cut Card—You were previously getting
decent penetration and the pit knows this. They also know that with poor
penetration, card counters lose much of their advantage. When they
suspect a player of counting, floorpersons may instruct the dealer to
shuffle sooner or move the cut card up to worsen the penetration. In this
instance, they want you to leave. They’re saying, “We’re on to you and
you won’t get a decent game here. Leave.” Again, do what they’re telling
you to. Note: This type of extra shuffling actually costs the casino money
in the long run, since it leads to downtime during which they’re not
winning bets from the losing players.
Flat-Bet or Bet-Spread Restriction—A pit boss may approach you,
informing you that if you wish to continue playing 21, you’ll have to
either flat bet (bet the same amount each hand) or spread only 3-1 (or
whatever they decide).
Restriction to Shoe Games Only—After observing your playing single-
or double-deck games, a pit boss may approach, informing you that if
you wish to continue playing 21, you may do so only on shoe games.
Getting Backed Off—A pit boss will approach you and ask you to step
away from the table to speak with you. You’ll be told that your 21 play is
too strong for the casino and you’re not permitted to play the game in
that casino any more. You’re welcome to play any other casino game
offered.
The Formal Barring—A pit boss will approach, possibly accompanied
by a uniformed security guard, and ask you to step away from the table
to speak with you. You’ll be told that you must leave the premises
immediately and are no longer permitted to reenter the casino at any
time.
The Trespass Act—If you’ve already been formally barred from a
casino and attempt to return to play 21, you run the risk of being arrested
for trespassing.
Backroom Detention—The casino doesn’t have the legal right to detain
you if you’re merely counting cards or using any other form of “legal”
advantage play. However, the casino does have the right to detain you if
they have “probable cause” to believe that you’ve committed an illegal
act (e.g., cheating). Since probable cause can be and has proven to have
been used as a lame excuse to detain players, casinos are known to take
this cheap shot. In the rare event that a casino attempts to force you into
a back room under the guise that they believe you were cheating, the first
thing you should do is insist on speaking to the Director of Surveillance
to demonstrate the evidence of the obvious false accusation. The
Surveillance Department is separate from Table Games Operations and
Security. If a decision has been made to detain you, there’d better be
irrefutable evidence, such as a surveillance video, of such. It’s good to be
aware of your legal rights, as well as the inner workings of the casinos,
whereby exhibiting such knowledge may cause casino employees to
think twice about what they’re trying to pull off.
In all of these instances, be aware that the casino has identified you as
a card counter. Except in extreme cases, such as getting “back-roomed,”
forget about what you think your rights are and just leave the place.
There are many other places you can play.
Surveillance Techniques
Technology has come a long way in its ability to identify card
counters. Years ago, casinos were limited to watching erratic bet spreads
and any small tip-off that would lead to suspicion. Now they have access
to some state-of-the-art technology to do the job. Armed with such tools,
some casinos have the ability to identify a skilled player from the eye in
the sky in a very short time. Impressive as some of this equipment may
be, it’s only as good as the individual operating it. When you consider
the number of tables in respect to the number of surveillance operators,
it’s easy to see how certain events can go by unnoticed. Besides, not all
casinos have sophisticated technology, so the card-counting tactics still
have some use.
In the past, decisions to track a player were initiated from the casino
floor. Nowadays, many surveillance departments take a more proactive
approach and make decisions to track players, at times, without the
knowledge of pit personnel.
Exchange of Information Among Casinos
If you’re barred from a casino that has sister properties, chances are
that your photograph will be circulated. If you’ve been formally barred
from a casino, chances are they have your photograph. Whether they
retain this photograph and other information for their own records or
share such things with other casinos is another story. Many casinos retain
the services of companies that specialize in gaming protection.
Griffin Investigations
Griffin has been in the business of providing surveillance for its
clients (casinos) for more than 30 years. They serve the casino industry
by identifying and keeping records on cheats, thieves, card counters, and
players employing any type of advantage technique. They maintain a
book (now in four volumes with thousands of entries) that contains
names, photographs, and descriptions of identified players. Part of their
service is supplying this book to clients and keeping it updated, by
adding new entries.
Griffin also has agents who observe any suspected player from the
casino floor and gather as much information on that person as possible.
Griffin agents are known to follow players from casino to casino, record
license plates, debrief taxi drivers, even personally follow players to their
hotels, in an attempt to get their true identity.
One of their products, the Griffin 2000 System, enables a casino to
utilize a remote hookup, giving the central headquarters of Griffin
Investigations the ability to observe the activity of any player(s) or
tables(s) via live video. The Griffin GOLD product offers an automated
database of all the entries compiled from the four-volume book. This
database enables a surveillance operator to run a search based on gender,
age, race, height, weight, date of birth, address, etc., or any combination
of these variables. This is much more effective than flipping through four
volumes of mug shots. This product can interface with the FaceIT facial
recognition system, manufactured by Visionics, Inc.
Biometrica
In 1999, a lead agent of Griffin left the organization and joined forces
with Biometrica, Inc., offering the same services, including a similar
database to that of Griffin GOLD. The database of information comes
from Casino Visual Identification (CVI), which was developed by the
former Griffin agent. As a companion to the CVI database, Biometrica
offers a facial recognition module manufactured by Viisage, Inc.
Blackjack Survey Voice (BJSV)
This product, sold by Casino Software & Services, Inc., enables a
casino surveillance agent to view a table and, via the use of a speech-
recognition feature, recite the values of cards played, bets made, and
other pertinent information into a computer, which then analyzes the
player’s skill level. I’m told that the product has been marketed with
claims that card counters can be identified after roughly 100 hands of
play in a 6-deck game. After reviewing the results of hands played, it’s
first established whether the player is playing at an advantage. If so,
BJSV then attempts to determine why. After calculating the player’s
average bet, hands dealt per hour, and percent advantage, BJSV
calculates a dollar figure indicating the player’s potential “win per hour.”
Let’s break it down further.
In terms of betting, BJSV, using a card-counting system, summarizes
the player’s activity and establishes that the player’s bet movements
correlate with that of the count. Even the use of well-known “bet-
camouflage” techniques doesn’t, it’s believed, prevent BJSV from
identifying a card counter. In its evaluation of the player’s betting
pattern, BJSV indicates the percent advantage that was gained, as
opposed to if the player was betting the same amount on each hand dealt
(flat betting).
In terms of the play of hands, it’s easy enough for any tracking
software to determine whether a player is using basic strategy in playing
decisions. When a non-basic-strategy play is made, BJSV identifies this,
then determines whether such deviation provides an advantage to the
player based on the count. In its evaluation of the play decisions, BJSV
indicates the percent advantage that was gained, as opposed to if the
player was applying strict basic strategy decisions.
BJSV classifies players as:
Good Card Counter: Player’s betting pattern and deviations from
basic strategy show a consistent pattern resembling a highly skilled
card counter.
Card Counter: Player’s betting pattern occasionally correlates to the
count. However, the consistency is not enough to play at a strong
enough advantage over the house.
Hole-Card Player: A high percentage of the player’s deviations
from basic strategy are not consistent with the count, but would be
the correct play with knowledge of the dealer’s hole card.
Shuffle Tracker: Player’s betting pattern reveals consistency of large
bets as slugs of high cards appear.
Basic Strategy Player: Player plays basic strategy with no deviations
and no bet movements correlating to the count.
Random Bettor: Player’s betting pattern has no correlation
whatsoever to the count.
Overall, BJSV is a slick product. As with any automated product,
there are inadequacies, and a clever player can beat the system. While I
can’t point out the specific ways that BJSV can be thwarted, the following
information should steer you in the right direction.
When running a “skills check” on BJSV, most places use a random
sampling of three contiguous shoes of play. Here are a few circumstances
that may prompt a skills check:
A player betting more than $XXX per hand.
A player who buys in for more than $XXXXX.
A player who increases a bet by more than X times previous bet.
A player makes a questionable play decision (e.g.; insurance,
splitting tens).
A player who is winning more than $XXXX during current session.
A player who won more than $XXXX on a prior visit.
A player whose year-to-date win record is in excess of $XXXXX.
A player whose lifetime win record is in excess of $XXXXX.
Believe me, the above information can provide you with more than
enough insight on how to develop methods to foil BJSV. Find them, learn
how to work them to your advantage, and keep your lips sealed.
Facial-Recognition Software
Use of this application is growing at a rapid pace. State governments
are becoming major users of this product, where they can create a
database resulting from photographs taken by Department of Motor
Vehicles when people apply for their driver’s licenses. The majority of
these products are based (in one way or another) on the Eigen Face
method of deconstructing and reconstructing a facial map in digital form.
A hundred key points are mapped and the system, apparently, can create
a match once 14 of the 100 features are captured. In all of these systems,
the mapping process starts with the eyes. It’s necessary for both eyes to
be visible for the product to work. Let’s walk through the process on how
the systems operate.
First, a casino possesses a database of faces from which the product
seeks matches. This database is continually updated with new and
better-quality photos. The photos in this database are referred to as
“enrollment photos.” If you’re playing blackjack and a casino employee
gets suspicious, the surveillance room takes your picture. This is referred
to as a “probe photo.” When your photo is scanned into the computer, a
search is conducted using the existing database.
The first point of the search is the eyes. The system focuses on the
distance between the eyes and captures the first group of possible
matches from the database. Since this key point is only one of many, the
results of this search are numerous. However, the system doesn’t rely
solely on this one key point and continues to search additional key points
in a defined sequence until the most perfect match is realized. This search
occurs in a couple of seconds! Note that regardless of whether a match is
realized, the probe photo is then entered into the database and becomes a
new enrollment photo.
It’s possible, though not practical, to have a system set up to scan
every person entering a building. There could be a “hot list” where, if an
entrant matches a face on it, an alert is sent to a surveillance operator for
review.
To realize the highest accuracy level, a front-face image must be
captured, as profiles don’t work. In addition to the distance between
eyes, other key points used for recognition are:
Head shape
Jaw structure
Chin
Nose shape
 Cheekbones
Given the above information, you can figure out subtle methods to
beat the system. Here’s a hint on one weakness of the system. If it can’t
capture an accurate read on both eyes, it can’t run an accurate match.
Another important factor is that poor lighting, glare, and reflections can
prevent the system from getting an accurate read on both eyes, is
necessary. Get the picture?
Countermeasures
As we can see, the casinos mean business. Therefore, if we wish to
maintain longevity in counting cards, we must take specific measures to
survive. Here are some things to consider.
Blend in with the crowd and do everything possible not to fit the
“typical-card-counter” profile.
Play stakes acceptable to the casino in which you are playing.
Get rated using a false name.
Keep alert as to pit activity.
Limit your sessions to one hour. Based on the textbook procedures
most casinos follow, it will take them this long to get a handle on your
play. The goal, of course, is to avoid detection, but if they do happen to
detect your play, the goal then is to get out of the casino before being
asked to leave.
Be aware that just because you had a successful session, won some
money, and walked out of the club without incident, does not mean the
casino isn’t on to you. Many casinos have a policy in which they review
the films of all black-chip players at the end of each day/shift. This is
done for several purposes. One is to determine the level of comps to
extend such players. Upon review of such tapes, if they note that you’re a
solid basic strategy player, your comps won’t be as good as those
extended to an unskilled player. If it’s noted that you’re a card counter,
you may no longer be welcome to play 21. If this happens, you won’t
know it until you enter the casino again (if you use the same name). The
floorperson, upon entering the name into the pit computer, will be
alerted. Surprise!
A more recent approach is for the identification of card counters to be
performed strictly by surveillance. The philosophy of many of the casino
corporations calls for their front-line staff (to be more customer-service
oriented to keep the clients happy and coming back. Hence, the pit may
not be responsible for identifying card counters. However, they’re
responsible for ensuring that proper actions are taken against any such
player previously identified by surveillance or other sources.
What does this mean? If you step into a casino for the first time and
count cards for three hours, there’s a chance you may play without
incident. After you leave, based on review of the surveillance videos, you
may be identified as a counter. If you return the next day or shortly
thereafter, chances are they’ll back you off very quickly. In this new
method of surveillance, you won’t see the phone calls from the pit to
surveillance mentioned earlier in the chapter.
In the past, the pit would pay attention to big winners. Nowadays,
the smarter ones watch anyone winning consistently over a period of
time.
Think you’re safe playing low stakes? Not necessarily. If you’re at a
table playing low stakes along with one or more players betting high
stakes, the tape is reviewed, solely due to the heavy action, and the play
of the entire table may be analyzed. You can be caught that way.
In summary, it’s getting tougher to win money from the casinos by
counting cards. Surveillance has gotten very sophisticated and, as a
player, you must keep abreast of the various techniques used by casinos.
In the past a good act would be able to fool them, but nowadays it won’t
always work. The computers see just the numbers and not the act.
To Minimize Detection
• Avoid playing a same club/shift more than once every few
months.
• When playing the same club during a different shift, use a
different name under which you get rated.
• Be aware of which casinos may share information.
• If playing low stakes, avoid playing at tables with high rollers.
• Avoid playing at a table where the chip tray is low on chips and in
need of a fill. This would halt the action and bring attention to the
table.
• Consider employing team play techniques (see Chapter 27).
• Consider playing with the use of disguises.
• Develop skills in methods not detectable by surveillance.
The Typical Card Counter Profile
The following are some of the characteristics of a typical
inexperienced card counter, whom most pit and surveillance staff
members would identify immediately:
Player’s Actions
• Stares at all the cards.
• Moves lips while looking at cards.
• Not talking much.
• Appears very serious at the table.
• Meticulously stacks and sorts chips.
• Looks guilty, annoyed, or suspicious when spoken to.
• Observes game from behind the tables, often prior to entering a
game.
• Does not order liquor to drink, but most commonly bottled water
or juice.
• Sits at 3rd base.
• Not interested in being rated.
• Does not tip.
• Shows no emotion when winning or losing.
• “Sneakily” pockets (hides) chips.
• Obvious in attempt to put on an act. (Many novice counters make
 this mistake. They try to become actors without formal training.
The biggest joke to the pit is watching some graduate student
trying to give the impression of a New York hoodlum. HELLO!
The books we’ve read are available to the general public and the
casino staff read the same books.)
• Circling the pit, looking too observantly at the tables.
• Asking how many decks are being used.
Player’s Appearance
• Young, Caucasian, English-speaking male.
• Intelligent looking. Looks like a college student or professor.
• Intelligent sounding. Articulate.
• Clean-cut look. Well groomed. Maybe wearing glasses.
• Wearing sunglasses, visor, or baseball cap. Keeping head down.
• No suntan, but pale skin—if casino is located at place and time
when tourists would be sporting a suntan. (It’s wise to wear light-
colored clothing where light skin will blend in, and if you do have
a tan, the light clothing will amplify it, giving you more of a “fun-
loving” type of appearance.)
Camouflage
Attire
It’s important to dress the role. If you’re playing in a high-roller-type
casino and betting large amounts, it’s essential that you be properly
attired.
In the daytime, you can get away with a golf shirt and slacks or a silk
jogging suit. Jewelry is important. In the evening you want to dress the
role even more so. A sports jacket, designer wear all around with the
necessary accessories, and a pair of expensive shoes work well. If you’re
not betting this type of money, you can tone down the look a bit. It’s a
good idea to go into the casinos where you plan to play and observe the
attire on the folks who are betting in the same range that you intend to
play.
Cover Plays
Some books recommend that when counters feel as though they’re
being watched, they should make some plays contrary to the proper
strategy to throw the pit off. I don’t recommend using this tactic as often
as others may. What I do recommend is to consider altering certain
proper-play decisions, if you feel your act is weak and you’re being
watched. Plays you may wish to alter, even though your strategy says
they are the proper plays, include:
Insuring stiff hands.
Not insuring a natural.
Splitting tens.
Hitting a soft 18 vs. T.
Hitting 16 vs. T.
Hitting 12 vs. 2 or 3.
Proper use of the surrender option when available.
It’s not necessary to deviate from too many proper-play decisions, as
the main thing that will give you away as a counter is your bet spread. If
you’re smooth enough, you can get away with making the proper plays,
which would normally raise an eyebrow or two.
Movement of Bets
Most counters get caught by using too aggressive of a bet spread. It’s
important to master the art of moving your bets in a subtle manner. A
few tips that may help you stay below the radar:
Do not increase your bet after a losing hand.
Do not decrease your bet after a winning hand.
Leave the same bet out after a push.
When you have a large bet out and the dealer shuffles, leave the
bet out.
When increasing your bet, use a parlay method, nothing more.
Combine chips of different colors in the betting circle.
Some Tips on “Acts”
Try to develop an “act” in a manner that would blend in with your
personality. If you’re from New York City and have that accent, move
your hands and gesture when you speak. Do that often at the table. Be
that “wise-guy New Yorker.” In Mississippi casinos, they really find this
type of player an amusing novelty, whereas in Atlantic City, you simply
blend in as one of many.
Think about yourself for a moment. What are you like? Take me, for
example. In general, I’m the type of person who’s a bit shy until I get to
know someone or become more familiar with the environment I’m in.
Once at ease, I drop my guard and talk more freely. Here’s a good
approach if you’re like me: When you go into a casino, keep in mind that
the pit staff and casino hosts will probably try to schmooze you and
make you feel at home. It’s imperative that you let them think that
they’re succeeding. You can do this by talking about one of your favorite
topics and acting as if you’re sitting at a bar or in your living room with
one of your longtime friends.
The key is to be at ease, and naturally be yourself, with a few minor
amplifications. If you’re a salesperson by profession or have that overly
exuberant type of personality, ham it up! A sport is usually a good topic.
The stock market may work. If the person isn’t familiar with investing,
start explaining it, giving all kinds of advice (if this is an area of expertise
for you).
Once again, all this must appear to come naturally to you, and not be
forced.
Disguising Wins and Hiding Chips
I’ve seen it written and heard it spoken many times that the best form
of camouflage is losing. What this really means is that a player should
appear to be losing in the eyes of the casino. Whether you’re a rated
player with a play history or a one-time player at a particular casino,
showing a loss or understating wins can work wonders in alleviating
heat. It all boils down to the value of chips the casino records you leaving
the table with. Your mission is to hide some chips before you end your
playing sessions.
First and foremost, it’s not a crime to remove your chips from the
table and place them in your pocket or give them to another person. Do
the casinos frown on it? Yes. But players do it and there’s no way a
casino can rightfully prohibit it. Hiding chips makes it much more
difficult for pit personnel to track a player’s win or loss. Hence, it
becomes part of your job to hide chips without the pit or surveillance
staff’s knowledge. Here are three of many methods.
Pocketing Chips—Using a palming technique, periodically remove a
chip of a desired denomination. Timing is crucial and you want to make
this move when the dealer and pit staff are busy or distracted. A good
time to pocket chips is during a dealer change. As for surveillance,
there’s no way to determine whether they’re watching and tapes can
always be reviewed. The key is to give them no reason to do either.
Handing Off Chips—Similarly, players can give chips to wives or
friends who walk up during play. Using discretion and good timing, this
can be an effective way to hide chips.
Transferring Chips—One of the flaws in the above two methods is that
the pit staff keeps a close record of the chips in the dealer’s tray and the
amount in front of each active player. When a player colors up and
leaves the table, the floorperson will recalculate the total chips. If this
total is less than what his records show, he might “assign” the amount of
the difference to the player, thus fudging the player’s results.
Transferring chips is a method—used most effectively with a team—to
replace the unrecorded chips a player removes from a table. If a player
(A) is winning, he arranges for a teammate (B), who is not being rated, to
sit next to him at the table. B already has chips purchased or won from a
previous session, but places only some of his chips in front of him at the
table. He has plenty in his pocket and, at an opportune time (usually
called in with signals), A removes chips from the table and pockets them.
At the same time, B removes the same value of chips from his pocket and
places them in front of himself at the table. When A leaves the table, the
total chip count won’t show a discrepancy and A has effectively
disguised his win. When B leaves the table, he’s recorded as having won
the same amount of chips that A pocketed. It doesn’t matter, since B is
unrated, using an alias, or otherwise anonymous.
Here are some additional tips on handling/hiding chips:
• Observe and note the pit procedures for players leaving the table.
• Determine what denomination of chip is best to pull from the
game. The higher the denomination, the more closely it’s
monitored, so care should be exercised when making this
decision. While $100 chips may be freely paid out, the dealer may
call out to the pit whenever a $1,000 chip is paid, prompting the
floorperson to notice who receives it. In this case, don’t even think
about transferring a $1,000 chip.
• It’s easier to hide chips when other big bettors are at the table.
• Observe and note the cashier procedures for cashing out chips,
which vary by casino.
• The amount of chips you cash out at the cashier should not be
more than the amount the floorperson recorded you leaving with.
If you plan to play additional sessions at that casino, it’s beneficial
to hold a predetermined amount of chips to avoid excessive cash
buy-ins.
Cashing Out
You just won some money and leave the table with your chips. All
you need to do now is go to the cashier window and exchange the chips
for cash. Sounds easy, right? Well, it is easy if you’re cashing out a small
amount. But when you reach a certain level, which varies by casino, the
process can get a bit complicated by identification issues related to CTRs
and SARs, as discussed in the next chapter, “Casinos and Personal
Privacy.” You need to be well-versed in the rules and requirements and
consider them before cashing.
15
Casinos and Personal Privacy

Players smart enough to win must also be sharp enough not to fall
prey to the manipulative methods of the casinos. This is especially true in
the case of card counters. Whether you’re a professional player with a
winning system or a recreational player just looking to have some
uncomplicated fun, you must avoid the pitfalls and protect your personal
privacy.
As time marches on, it’s increasingly difficult to preserve personal
privacy. Aside from proving age to purchase alcohol or cigarettes, or to
enter a casino, the rule today is that an individual present some form of
“government-issued photo identification” for entrance to buildings,
opening a bank account, checking into a hotel room, obtaining telephone
service, and many other necessary day-to-day activities. Our society has
made it a requirement, not a law, to provide such documentation in order
to function in a normal manner.
First and foremost, simply by applying for “official” identification of
any sort, you are, in essence, providing the issuer (government agency)
with your life story. You are now in the database. The three most common
forms of official identification are driver’s license, passport, and military
ID. Every time you comply with a request to present such identification,
you’re at risk of revealing your personal information to at least one
stranger.
It’s understandable that businesses have such requirements as a
measure of protection against fraud and the like. However, in the
majority of instances where identification requirements exist, they’ve
been instituted with the specific purpose of gathering as much
information about as many individuals as possible. Translation: The
businesses want your information for marketing. We’re being
manipulated by what society now dictates as a necessity. This can be
dangerous, as your most critical information ends up in the database,
accessible to any number of interested parties.
One of the most notorious perpetrators of this practice is the casino
industry.
Your Driver’s License, Please
Both individual and team players are becoming more and more
concerned about privacy protection. The average citizen has been
brainwashed into automatically turning over a driver’s license whenever
asked for a “photo ID.” Even worse, persons requesting a form of photo
ID now ask for a driver’s license just out of habit.
Do you automatically give your driver’s license to anyone who
requests it? Congratulations. You’ve just joined the ranks of the majority
of Americans who are routinely providing unknown persons with a
license to steal. Go ahead and call it paranoid, but open your wallet and
take a look at all the wonderful information on that harmless little card.
Your driver’s license has your name, home address, and date of birth.
Some states even include your Social Security number on the face of the
license. This one little card gives away all the data necessary to steal your
identity. All it takes is one individual with larcenous intent.
Identity Theft and Casinos
The following concerns are not limited to casinos—they apply to any
business that interfaces with the general public. Still, few other
businesses toss money around so openly and freely. This in itself attracts
a certain type of thinking, one that involves theft.
You’re at the casino cashier window and a clerk asks for your driver’s
license. Did you notice the stranger standing nearby, clicking a photo of
your license with his cell-phone camera? What do you know about the
clerk to whom you’ve just given the keys to your privacy, or any other
casino employee with access to the casino database?
Casinos love to dangle the carrot in front of players. They offer
freebies for all who sign up for a players card. Most commonly, you’re
given an application to fill out. In addition to the standard name,
address, and phone number, among other things, they may ask for your
date of birth, Social Security number, anniversary date, and maybe even
your favorite sports. Here again, in order to obtain a players card, you
must also present a photo ID. This requirement varies from casino to
casino, so let’s break down the term “photo ID” into three common
categories:
Category #1: Any respectable-looking ID card with a name and photo
that resembles you (company ID card; photo credit card; medical-alert
card; any self-manufactured photo identifcation, the possession or use of
which does not break any laws).
Category #2: A government-issued photo ID (passport, military ID;
government employee ID; state-issued firearms permit).
Category #3: Your driver’s license.
From this point forward, do yourself a favor and never give your
driver’s license to anyone other than a police officer. Category #1 gives
you the most flexibility, but as an advantage player with a desire to stay
anonymous, you may find the need to go to Category #2 (giving up only
some minor details). You should do this only in the event that the place is
offering something good enough to persuade you to make the exception.
One trick that’s always worth a try is to have whatever application is
necessary already filled out, then present it along with a Category #1 ID
before they ask you for their choice of ID.
Government-issued photo ID comprises a broad category that gives
you more safety than a driver’s license. A passport, for example, does not
provide your home address or Social Security number. Given a choice,
providing a passport is preferable to a driver’s license any day.
Profiling Through the Players Club
Casinos invest an obscene amount of energy and money in customer
profiling. Look at all the weapons a casino has at its disposal: players
clubs, casino credit, hotel rooms, valet parking, cameras everywhere.
Now add facial recognition.
The most powerful weapon is the players club card. Most casinos
encourage regular use of players cards by patrons, in order to reward
them with free stuff. However, every time you present or insert this card,
that event is recorded in the casino’s monstrous database. Even if you
don’t present your card when you eat, purchase show tickets, play golf,
or buy something in a retail shop, if the purchase is made using a credit
card, that information is captured.
The main reason for gathering this information is to enable the casino
to market to you, so you’ll come back, gamble, and lose more money.
When a player has points on a players card, he feels obligated not to “let
the points go to waste.” Send a customer an offer for a free room and
there’s a good chance he’ll be a return visitor. Throw in a free meal or
two? The odds of the return visit have just increased.
Am I saying you shouldn’t use a players card? No. The perks offered
by casinos are a part of the gaming experience for casual players and
even calculated into the gains of many advantage players. With this in
mind, using a players card is beneficial, if not mandatory, to get the
highest return.
However, be aware that it comes at the price of privacy. If you care
about your privacy and use a players card, I recommend that you take
measures to limit the information casinos can obtain about you, which is
to say, give them the bare minimum you need to to get what you want.
Keep in mind that many casinos have a policy whereby all players at a
specified bet level must present valid identification or they will not
permit play. Yes, they do have that power!
Casino Credit
In three words: Don’t do it!
Take a look at a typical application for a casino credit line. After
providing the casino with all that information about yourself, it goes into
a database … and we all know how secure databases are! Imagine an
employee who manages to get a copy of a casino’s database of premium
players: names, addresses, bank account numbers—an identity thief’s
dream!
Central Credit has provided services for the casino industry since the
late 1950s. Global Cash Access acquired it in 1998 and increased the
number of services offered, as well as its ability to invade an individual’s
personal privacy. While Global Cash Access provides identity
verification of casino patrons to protect all parties from identity theft, the
player’s personal information is in its database, which is accessible by
any number of casino employees worldwide.
Casino Credit Services can provide casinos with a dossier of all a
subject’s recorded casino activities. At some casinos, your name is
checked against that database when you check in. I’ll bet you didn’t
know how invasive the simple process of getting a hotel room could be.
Cash Transaction Report (CTR)
Federal law requires casinos to report all currency transactions in
excess of $10,000 (or its equivalent in other currencies). The stated
purpose of this requirement is to thwart laundering of money used to
finance terrorist activities, drug trafficking, and other crimes. Casinos
have historically been targets for these practices.
A casino is required to file a Currency Transaction Report (CTR) with
the IRS, identifying any customer who conducts a cash transaction or
series of cash transactions totaling more than $10,000 in a gaming day.
The CTR details the customer’s name, address, date of birth, and Social
Security number. If the customer is a regular player, he probably has a
players card with an account number and the casino should already have
the information in its system. If not, a casino employee will ask for a form
of government identification. If the customer refuses to provide this, he
will no longer be permitted to engage in cash transactions of any type.
Notice the phrase “totaling more than $10,000 in a gaming day.” If
you go to a table game and buy $5,000 in chips, then later in the day go to
a different table and buy another $6,000 in chips, your total buy-ins are
$11,000 and the casino is required to identify you. Officially, buy-ins
have to exceed the $10,000 mark. The casino staff tracks cash buy-ins and
attempts to identify anyone who looks like a threat to exceed the
threshold early on. In fact, some casinos have specific thresholds at
which they won’t allow further buy-ins for an unidentified player, i.e., one
who won’t surrender ID when first asked. It could be $5,000, $7,000, or
any such amount.
Here is an important point. It is federal law to report a cash
transaction exceeding $10,000. If you attempt to cash in $10,001 in chips,
the casino cannot legally give you the cash unless it has information
(obtained from a government ID) on file. The same goes for buying in for
chips with cash at a table. However, any requirement to obtain ID prior
to the $10,000 point is solely dictated by internal casino procedures and
not by federal law. That means you don’t have to produce ID prior to
$10,000 in cash transactions. But keep in mind that if a casino asks for ID
and you refuse to provide it, you will be watched very closely from that
point on, or possibly even backed off.
A simple way to view this is as follows.
An ID request resulting from cash transactions exceeding $10,000 =
federal law.
An ID request resulting from cash transactions below $10,000 =
internal casino policy.
Privacy problems can arise out of the blue as a result of CTR issues.
For example, it’s not uncommon to buy in for something like $9,000, get
on a bad run, and ask to buy in for another $3,000, at which point you’ll
be asked for ID. If you refuse, the casino is within its legal rights to refuse
to allow the additional buy-in.
The regulations as outlined under the Bank Secrecy Act clearly define
a currency transaction as the physical exchange of currency between two
parties. When you go to a casino gaming table and place $5,000 cash
down in exchange for chips, that is a physical exchange of currency.
After that initial $5,000 buy-in, you’re using casino chips to play. Now,
say you win $12,000 and leave the table with a total of $17,000 in chips.
That is not an additional physical exchange of currency. It only becomes
defined as an exchange when you go to the cashier and exchange those
chips for cash. So playing with chips you’ve won shouldn’t trigger a
CTR, but once you cash them, that transaction will likely accrue toward
your total, including any other cash transactions you’ve made that day.
Casino policy may impose additional actions or requirements of
identification when cashing out chips. They include the following:
• The cashier may require identification any time chips higher than
a designated denomination are presented. While this varies by
casino, it’s most common with $5,000-denomination chips or
higher. Since casinos are known to track these chips very closely,
many players never accept them at the table, but rather work only
 with $1,000 or lower denominations.
• The cashier may phone the pit where you recently played to verify
the amount of chips you walked away with. For convenience, it
makes sense to keep an ample amount of chips available if you
plan to play more at a casino, which means it’s rarely necessary to
cash out large amounts at any one time. Keep in mind that if it’s
determined that you’re “structuring,” you’ll have bigger problems
to deal with, as explained below. Be careful and obey the law.
• Some casinos use Radio Frequency Identification (RFID)
technology, with tracers implanted in high-denomination chips.
Caution must be exercised if this type of chip is in use. In such
cases, only you should attempt to cash it or break it down at a
table for future play.
The term “gaming day” also needs to be considered, as its definintion
differs among casinos. A gaming day (or designated 24-hour period)
might run from midnight until 11:59 p.m. in one casino, while it’s 7 a.m.
until 6:59 a.m. in another. Most customers won’t know what constitutes
the casino’s gaming day. And while it might be good to know, you have
to be careful about what you do with that knowledge. Cashing out
different amounts at different times can be perfectly legitimate. However,
making multiple cashouts in a deliberate attempt to avoid a CTR is called
“structuring,” a crime for which you can be arrested. If you’re with a
spouse, relative, or friend, you legally cannot break down your chips and
have them cashed out for you to avoid a CTR. That could also be
considered a form of structuring.
To summarize, if your usual level of play causes you to exceed
$10,000 in cash transactions, then dealing with CTRs will be something
you have to get used to. If you keep your cash activity under $10,000,
you’re not legally required to provide the casino with your personal
information, but understand that your refusal might prompt other
actions, as you’ll see below.
Suspicious Activity Report (SAR)
Financial institutions are required by federal regulations to file a
Suspicious Activity Report (SAR) when they suspect that a violation of
federal criminal law or regulations is being committed or attempted and
involves the money being transacted. Guess what? Casinos are
considered financial institutions and are required to comply with this
regulation as well. Given the vagueness of the requirements, anyone can
be subject to such reporting. The actual dollar amount that warrants an
SAR filing is also vague. It’s generally understood that banks use a $5,000
benchmark, whereas casinos are more likely to use $3,000. Remember
how a cash transaction in excess of $10,000 requires a CTR filing? The
$10,000 number can score you both a CTR and an SAR if someone finds
you suspicious!
You’re in the blind with regard to when such filings are made. The
Bank Secrecy Act prohibits the institution filing the SAR from informing
the filing’s subject. However, there are two areas in which a patron is
protected by this same Bank Secrecy Act.
The filing institution is prohibited from disclosing to other
institutions that an SAR has been filed on a patron. In the casino
business, patrons frequently move from casino to casino. A player may
even bring chips from one casino to cash in another. It’s not uncommon
for one casino to call another and inquire about a suspicious patron. If
this occurs and a casino reveals that an SAR was filed, that casino is in
violation of the Bank Secrecy Act. Quite serious! Additionally, the filing
institution is not permitted to inform law-enforcement authorities that an
SAR was filed. Suppose you’re detained by casino security and local
police get involved. If a casino employee informs the police that they
filed an SAR on the player, the casino is in violation of the Bank Secrecy
Act.
Financial institutions have a “better safe than sorry” mentality on this
issue. They fall under the protection of the Safe Harbor Provision, where
they’re granted immunity for any consequences that stem from illegal
transactions, provided they filed an SAR. Casinos are especially sensitive
to this.
In fairness to casinos, they encounter many players who engage in
multiple cash exchanges throughout a 24-hour period and it’s difficult to
keep track. To aid in tracking, most maintain Multiple Transaction Logs,
in which they either have the patron’s player card number or, in the
absence of that, a physical description of the patron. They may be
logging your transactions, but at this point it’s not a legal requirement to
obtain official identification, and any attempt by a casino to do so is
merely an anticipatory effort based on internal policy. The tricky part is
that if you wish not to comply with the request, the casino may not allow
you to make any further currency exchanges. Even though you may not
have even approached the $10,000 mark, the casino can implement this
as internal policy to protect itself. This is risky territory due to its
vagueness, making decisions subject to opinion rather than verifiable
facts.
Other than determining whether you’re old enough to engage in
casino play, the only legal reason a casino has to identify you is if you
engage in cash transactions in excess of $10,000 during the course of a
day. This will trigger a CTR. Additionally, an SAR can be filed below the
$10,000 threshold if the casino deems you to be suspicious.
Here are some of the major differences between the CTR and SAR
reports:
• Federal law has an established threshold of $10,000 for CTR
reporting, but none for SAR reporting, which is subject to the
judgment of the casino.
• The patron’s Social Security number is necessary for a CTR, but
not required for an SAR.
• If a patron does not provide identification when a CTR is required,
the casino is prohibited by law from completing the transaction.
With an SAR, the casino is under no such prohibition by law.
However, a refusal to complete a transaction could be a result of
internal casino policy and not federal law.
Be Informed
From my experiences and those of others I’ve spoken with, the pit
staffs in most casinos aren’t knowledgeable about the whys of these
requests for identification. Their actions give every indication that they
were lightly trained and simply proceed in a robotic manner when they
ask for IDs. Players (including me) have encountered situations where pit
staff asks for ID at specific points below the $10K mark, stating, “The
government requires it.”
You’re now armed with some knowledge that will help protect your
privacy. As you implement the necessary measures outlined here, all
perfectly legal and within your rights, to protect yourself, you may come
up with new tricks of your own. Don’t forget to pass them on, so others
can better protect their own privacy. The best way to battle devious
practices is to educate others. This is not limited to card counters playing
blackjack, but applies to many other areas of life.
 The
Black Zone
16
Cheating

This chapter is divided into two sections. The first is “Player

Cheating” and the second is “House Cheating.” Note that I’m
mentioning methods of player cheating strictly as a point of awareness.
In the event you observe another player cheating in any form, you
should leave the table immediately. You don’t want to be anywhere near
cheating in a casino. That’s the sole purpose of pointing out their illegal
acts. We’ve never utilized any method of cheating. I’m confident that I
play well enough using honest methods. Those using such techniques are
committing a crime.
Player Cheating
Capping Bets
A player who’s dealt a strong hand attempts to place one or more
chips on top of the initial bet. A cheating player attempting this most
likely does so in a hand-held game, where the player picks up the cards
and uses them to mask his move. In Cheating at Blackjack Squared, by
Dustin Marks, he shows a method of capping bets during the double-
down process.
It’s also possible to cap a bet by slipping an additional chip under the
initial chips. This technique is performed at the time a player slips the
initial two cards underneath the chip(s), indicating the desire to stand on
that hand. While doing so, he slides an additional chip underneath. In
this move, it’s common to “accidentally” knock over the chips.
Pinching Bets
A player with a weak hand attempts to remove one or more chips
from the original bet. Again, a cheating player in a hand-held game uses
the cards to cover the pinch.
Card Mucking
A player attempts to remove one or more cards from play and use
them when needed in a future hand. For example, a player might draw
and deliberately bust, without tossing in the hand. When the dealer
moves on, the player then removes the desired card, using sleight-of-
hand techniques. With this illegal move, a skilled card mucker can
constantly switch cards in and out of the game to improve a hand. A card
mucker can be caught with an additional card if the pit decides to change
decks. In that case, the pit person will count down the deck(s) and realize
that one or more cards are missing.
Card Marking
Marking cards can, at times, give a cheating player knowledge of the
dealer’s hole card and/or the next card to be dealt. This is very powerful
information for a player to have. Cheating players can attempt to mark
cards in various ways. One of the most common methods is by
“bending” certain cards. A player who bends all the aces in a 2-deck
game will sometimes know that an ace will be dealt prior to making a
bet. Such information would be extremely valuable. In another method
of marking cards, the cheating player uses a sharp object to nick the
edges of certain cards. A ring or sharpened fingernail is a common tool
for this illegal practice. Another creative method of this illegal practice is
to use a fluorescent coloring, which can best be seen with the use of
special eyeglasses.
House Cheating
In recent years, large corporations that run the casinos have
attempted to ensure that casino games are handled in a legitimate
manner. However, some casino employees may try to test the
boundaries. For example, a dealer could have a friend sitting at a
blackjack table and perform certain maneuvers (e.g., overpayments) to
help this friend win. Now this dealer has a bit of a problem, because if
the table ends up a “house loser,” the dealer may be placed under
scrutiny and tapes of the table would be reviewed a bit more closely. To
avoid this, the cheating dealer would perform certain maneuvers to
ensure that another player at the table loses money. This would balance
out the fact that the dealer’s friend wins. Such cheating is usually not
sanctioned by the house. In the old days, if a high roller was having a streak
of luck, the house might be inclined to bring in a “special-situation
dealer,” a card “mechanic” capable of manipulating the cards in a deck
by various means to the dealer’s (or the casino’s) benefit. This form of
cheating is house sanctioned.
I asked Dustin Marks, author and expert authority on this topic, to
look over this chapter. He confirms that in his experiences house
cheating is quite uncommon. His rationale is that each move a dealer
makes provides an opportunity for the casino to identify the form of
cheating.
Dealing Seconds
This method of cheating is generally performed by dealers in hand-
dealt games, where dealers pitch the cards rather than deal from a shoe.
The cheating dealer peeks at the top card by positioning the deck in a
certain manner. If that card is beneficial to the player’s hand, the dealer
pitches the second card instead. This maneuver can also be performed if
the top card benefits the dealer’s hand, thus saving the top card until the
dealer is taking a card. A skilled card mechanic dealing seconds is
extremely difficult to detect. Strangely enough, the best way to detect it is
by sound rather than sight. When a card is legitimately dealt from the
top of a deck, it makes a distinct sound, which differs when a second is
dealt. While this method is fine in a poker game or a quiet environment,
in a noisy casino it’s difficult to hear. Dealers are also trained to lift their
thumb when dispensing a card off the top of the deck. If the dealer’s
thumb remains on the deck and appears to be pulling back as the cards
are dealt, that may be a sign of dealing seconds.
Dustin mentions that while it’s rare, if a dealer uses this move, it’s
usually done as a one-shot deal at an opportune moment, such as a
double-down card with a large bet out. One such hand can truly make all
the difference!
Incomplete Shuffle
It’s a good idea to occasionally observe the manner in which the
dealer shuffles. Look for consistency and a thorough mixing of the cards
during each shuffle. In one form of cheating, the dealer picks up the
discards in a certain manner and shuffles in an unorthodox way, which
may be detrimental to the players.
Selective Upcard
If a cheating dealer is aware of the value of both dealer cards, the
decision on which card is exposed as the upcard can be manipulated.
“Suggestive Cut”
Considering the above shuffling method, a dealer may have
knowledge of where a certain clump of cards is located within the
deck(s). Knowing this, the dealer wants to ensure that certain cards are
cut either into or out of play. A cheating dealer might hand you the cut
card and move the deck(s) toward your hand, positioning the cut card
next to where the dealer would like it placed.
Incomplete Deck(s)
Whenever one or more new decks is introduced to a table, the dealer
examines all the fronts and backs of the cards. This is to ensure that
complete decks are put into play and the backs of the cards don’t have
any unintentional marks from the printing process or shipping. Although
discrepancies are rare, they’re known to happen. It’s a good idea to pay
attention when this is being done, just to make sure the dealer doesn’t
miss something. The act of intentionally removing cards from a deck
rarely occurs today.
The Preferential Shuffle
This method of house cheating, commonly used by casinos, is deadly
to players. When we say players, we refer to all players, not just card-
counting players. Unfortunately, there’s no law that prevents a casino
from shuffling decks whenever it desires. Therefore, the casinos are
armed with a lethal weapon.
A preferential shuffle is where dealers shuffle or are instructed by
their superior(s) to shuffle decks when they believe that the cards
remaining favor the player or when a player makes an unusually large
wager. For an example of how this can be detrimental to all players at the
table, suppose a dealer is keeping track of aces. If, after a few rounds are
dealt, the dealer (who has knowledge of a surplus of aces remaining in
the deck) shuffles, the players at the table would be deprived of having
the benefit of the aces, minimizing their chances of getting a natural and
benefiting from the 3-2 payoff.
Preferential Shuffle by a Card-Counting Dealer
This is the worst type of preferential shuffling. A game played under
these conditions is unbeatable. The dealer in this case, who can be
completely skilled in card counting, shuffles away all positive-count
decks, while dealing out all negative-count decks. You may also
encounter a dealer who’s simply tracking aces. In any shape or form,
you’re playing at a huge disadvantage. When you encounter such a
game, just get up and leave.
Preferential Shuffle by a Non-Card-Counting Dealer
An astute player can actually manipulate this type of dealer to an
advantage. This type of dealer has determined, or has been informed,
that you’re counting cards. As a countermeasure, the dealer shuffles
when you raise your bets. Some casinos have a built-in policy to shuffle
any time a player triples the previous bet. If you encounter such a dealer,
you can actually use this to your advantage (more on this further in the
chapter).
Is it Legal for Casinos to Preferential Shuffle?
At the time of this writing, there’s no regulation prohibiting this
action by casinos. Many people, including me, feel strongly that giving
the casinos the right to shuffle at will has resulted in preferential shuffle
tactics. The argument of players who are against it is that by allowing
them to use this tactic, the casinos have the ability to alter the
randomness of what’s supposed to be a game of chance. If a game has a
fixed and consistent shuffle point, the casino dealing it would have an
already-existing house advantage against the average player. The house
advantage can be determined based on the rules of the game. In a game
where a casino can shuffle at will as is the case today, the casino has the
ability to further improve the house advantage by selectively dealing or
not dealing certain cards. This is essentially equivalent to removing cards
from a deck, which is cheating.
Some Player Countermeasures Against the Preferential Shuffle
In hand-dealt games, you have a lesser chance of encountering a
preferential shuffle if the casino employs a shuffle card. This is a cut card
placed within the deck(s) used to dictate the last round dealt. Casinos
using shuffle cards don’t normally shuffle the deck(s) prior to reaching
that card. However, be on the lookout for such tactics, as when a dealer
leaves for a break earlier than normal and lays the remaining cards out
prior to reaching the shuffle card. If you encounter this during only
positive counts, you may be dealing with a very crafty and creative pit
crew.
When you encounter a non-counting dealer who’s using your bet
range as a basis for shuffling, you have an opportunity to work this to
your advantage. When playing against a shuffle anytime you triple your
prior bet, you can bet $50 off the top. If the count rises, bet $100, but if it
drops, bet $150 to force a shuffle. After your $100 wager, if the count
drops, bet $300 to force a shuffle. If the count continues to be in the plus
region, stay with the $100 bet. This way, you’re controlling the dealer
and manipulating the shuffle of negative decks. This method doesn’t
always work and even when it does, the dealer and/or pit may
eventually get hip to what you’re doing.
It’s important for you to be able to identify a card-counting dealer.
This is easy. Just look for some of the signs that the pit looks for in
identifying a card-counting player. If a dealer is non-talkative and seems
to be intently concentrating (more so than other dealers), it could be a
warning sign. You may even see a dealer’s lips moving! When you
encounter a card-counting dealer, leave the table. If you want to confirm
your suspicions, engage the suspect dealer in conversation. This dealer
may try to ignore you. Keep on talking and make certain that some form
of number is included in parts of your conversation. A counting dealer
will become frustrated. Of course, this is best to do just standing or
sitting, without playing.
17

Advantage Play: Some Gray and Not-

So-Gray Areas
This chapter discusses some questionable methods of gaining an
advantage in a blackjack game. At the time of this writing, some are
clearly illegal and can land you a jail sentence, while others are not
illegal. Some methods are simply based on taking advantage of a sloppy
dealer. Years ago, crafty players used to cruise the casinos in search of
sloppy dealers, then made a bundle playing against them. Today, the
casinos, aware of these tactics, have installed measures to eliminate or
minimize their effectiveness.
Front-Loading
On occasion, the dealer may accidentally expose the hole card as it’s
removed from the deck, placed on the table, and slipped underneath the
upcard. A sloppy dealer angles the card while going through the
motions, so that a player seated at third base, or the next seat over, has
the ability to catch a glimpse of the card’s value. A right-handed front-
loader normally exposes the hole card to the third-base side of the table,
while a left-handed front-loader exposes it to the first-base side.
Having constant knowledge of the dealer’s hole card can provide a
player with a huge advantage. One powerful use of this knowledge is
always making a correct insurance decision. Another is where you’d
normally hit a stiff against a dealer’s ten upcard. Now, armed with the
knowledge that the dealer has a stiff hand, you’d stand on your stiff
hand, eliminating your chance of busting and taking advantage of the
dealer’s chance of busting. Some plays bring immediate suspicion and
for that reason are avoided by players using this tactic. If you have a 19
with knowledge the dealer has a 20, for example, hitting 19 isn’t wise.
First-Basing
Sometimes you may catch a glimpse of the dealer’s hole card when
the dealer manually peeks under an ace or ten to check for a natural. A
sloppy dealer who doesn’t protect the hand while performing this check
exposes the hole card to an alert player seated at first base. This doesn’t
occur as frequently as it did years ago, since the casinos have installed
two countermeasures. One: The dealer doesn’t check for a natural until
the play of all hands is completed. This can be applied to only tens or
both tens and aces. Two: the installation of the “automatic peek device.”
With this, the dealer slips the hole card into the device, which is installed
on the table, enabling the apparatus to read the specially coded cards to
indicate whether the hole card is an ace or ten. If so, a light flashes. If not,
the dealer, not having manually peeked under the hole card, hasn’t any
further knowledge of what the card is.
This form of hole-card play is not as powerful as front-loading.
Whereas a front-loading dealer exposes the hole card close to 100% of the
time, a first-basing dealer exposes the hole card only when checking for a
natural, which is roughly 35% of the time at best. In any event, a player
who has the opportunity to use this technique can play at a strong
advantage, strictly on such information.
Playing the “Warps”
In a game where the dealer manually checks under aces and tens for a
natural, some dealers may bend the cards in such a way that they remain
warped after being in play for a while. This can be advantageous if a
dealer’s hole card appears on the table with the corners lying flat and the
center of the edge slightly bridged upward. The card could be an ace or
ten that’s been warped. Due to the casino countermeasures, the ability to
read warps is less common today.
Knowledge of Bottom Card Before the Cut
On occasion, a sloppy dealer will expose the bottom of the deck when
presenting it to you for cutting. This is good information, as you can
insert the cut card in a strategic location to either cut a good card into
play or cut a poor card out of play. The rule here is that if the bottom
card is a high card, you cut low, ensuring it will be dealt. If the bottom
card is a low card, you cut high, where that card will end up not being
dealt. In many single-deck games, cutting a 5 out of play gives you an
advantage off the top. With this information, you can place a larger bet
off the top.
Knowledge of Bottom Card After the Cut
A sloppy dealer may expose the bottom of the deck(s) while
completing the cut. This is good information, as you can incorporate the
value of the bottom card, which won’t be dealt, into your count. If you
catch the bottom card before and after the cut, you have two cards to
incorporate into your count. Knowledge of this information also can
justify placing a larger bet right off the top.
Knowledge of the Burn Card
You may also benefit from a sloppy dealer’s exposing the burn card
while placing it into the discard tray. You can incorporate its value into
your count. If you’re fortunate enough to catch the bottom card before
the cut and after the cut, in addition to the burn card, you have three
cards to incorporate into your count. If these three cards are low value
cards, which will not be dealt, you’re playing at a nice advantage off the
top of a hand-dealt game and can bet accordingly.
Use of a Concealed Computer
This is a felony offense in most U.S. jurisdictions. On July 1, 1985, a
bill in the state of Nevada went into effect, whereby anyone caught using
a computer in a casino would be subject to up to a $10,000 fine and/or
10-year jail sentence.
Nevada Statute 465.075 Use of Device for Calculating Probabilities:
It is unlawful for any person at a licensed gaming establishment to
use, or possess with intent to use, any device to assist:
1. In projecting the outcome of the game;
2. In keeping track of the cards played;
3. In analyzing the probability of the occurrence of an event relating
to the game; or
4. In analyzing the strategy for playing or betting to be used in the
game, except as permitted by the commission.
Other jurisdictions followed suit, passing similar bills.
During the 1970s, one of the first known concealed computers was
developed and used very successfully to count cards and provide the
player with the strongest betting and playing strategies based on the
information input into the computer. This computer was comprised of
components about the size of a pack of cigarettes, which were strapped
to the player’s waist, connected to a set of wires running down the
player’s legs, connected to a mini-keyboard located inside one shoe. The
value of each card dealt was input with the mini-keyboard by tapping
toes in accordance with the codes indicating the card values. The
computer, receiving this information, would go through the necessary
calculations in practically one second and respond with a series of buzzes
back to the player, directing how many units to bet and how to play the
hand.
Use of a computer is far more powerful than traditional card
counting. The computer knows exactly what cards remain to be played.
Let’s take an extreme situation. You’re playing a single-deck game
with all the cards dealt. You have T,T for a pat hand of 20 and the
dealer’s upcard is a 7. Only one card remains undealt. If you know that
the only three unseen cards are three aces, one being the dealer’s hole
card, one representing the burn card, and one being that only undealt
card, what play decision would you make? The insane move of doubling
down on a 20—giving you the opportunity to win twice your original
bet!
As you can see, using a computer results in some strange play
decisions. Before the casinos caught on to the use of computers, such
plays helped minimize heat from the winning computer player, as the pit
attributed such winning to dumb luck, figuring that anyone making such
stupid plays would eventually start to lose. Nowadays, such plays bring
immediate attention from the pit personnel, who are a bit more educated.
The bottom line is that if you get caught using a computer in a casino,
you’ll be arrested. Don’t try it.
20
Blackjack and the Internet

This chapter isn’t about actually playing blackjack at an Internet

casino (although you can). Discussed here are various sources of online
information and some precautions you should think about exercising.
Like all subjects, a world of information on many aspects of blackjack is
available on the Net.
Some History
One of the earliest online sources of blackjack information was the
Usenet Newsgroup rec.gambling, formed in late 1989. It was a gambling-
oriented bulletin board where visitors posted questions, ideas, and
theories of any sort. After first addressing all forms of gambling in one
place, the volume of messages grew to the point where it was necessary
to split the newsgroup into different gambling-related categories. In
1995, blackjack players gathered at rec.gambling.blackjack. In November
1997, a moderated newsgroup enabled designated moderators to monitor
all posts to the bulletin board and reject those considered inappropriate.
This group, with its dedicated and high-quality participants, was very
popular for a while. But as the Internet gained prominence, many new
sites were formed.
While there are several blackjack-related sites on the Internet today,
the following are the most popular at the time of this writing. Some of
these provide links to other such sites. Additionally, many casinos have
their own websites, which can also provide lots of useful information.
BJ21.com
After participating on the RG Newsgroups for a short while, in 1996
blackjack author and expert Stanford Wong put together a well-
organized bulletin board-type website called BJ21.com. The site quickly
expanded into private sections (available by paid membership) and grew
to more than 2,000 members, in addition to several hundred visitors and
contributors to the free sections. BJ21.com has grown to now host several
bulletin boards, where information on blackjack conditions at casinos
throughout the country can be accessed. This is a great place to get
answers to basic questions from a large cross-section of theorists and
players. Wong’s monthly newsletter, Current Blackjack News, is also
available by accessing the BJ21.com website via paid subscription.
Blackjacktheforum.com
Software developer and blackjack author Norm Wattenberger runs
this comprehensive website, which has lively forums and an active chat
room with occasional guest experts as hosts. Participation on the site is
free, requiring only initial registration.
Blackjackforumonline.com
Loyal readers of Blackjack Forum were pleased to see Bishop Arnold
Snyder back on the scene with the launch of his
blackjackforumonline.com. Visitors can access a treasure trove of articles
from past issues of Blackjack Forum, along with message forums,
including a members-only player’s forum.
LasVegasAdvisor.com
Anthony Curtis has been publishing the Las Vegas Advisor newsletter
for more than 25 years, providing readers with information on the best
deals in Sin City. In a rapidly changing environment, this online resource
turns you onto incentives as they happen. The website has complete
visitor information for accommodations, dining, transportation, shows,
gambling, and just about anything Vegas-centric. There are also forums
where visitors of all levels of casino knowledge engage in discussions on
all things casino-related. At this writing, there are plans for a big
redevelopment of the site, which will include a much-heightened
emphasis on gambling information and strategies, formed in conjunction
with highly respected gambling expert James Grosjean and others from
LVA’s deep pool of gambling authors.
Security Tips for Participating in Blackjack-Related Websites
Contributing Information
It’s good to gather up every tidbit of information you can find, as you
never know what you might come across. Some of the best information
can come from the most unlikely sources. But if you contribute
information to gambling websites, I recommend that you be careful
about including specific information about what you, specifically, did
during a trip or play. Some players feel it’s fine to give details about
rules, penetration, etc., but anything specific that may link you to a given
table, during a given shift, on a given day may lead to someone (maybe
from a casino) figuring out who you are. On a website where anyone can
have (or pay for) access, you never know who’s reading the posts.
Exercise the necessary caution.
Most contributors use pseudonyms when posting to maintain
anonymity. But remember that when you post something about a specific
event, it’s very easy for the casino to say, “Let’s go to the videotape.”
Preserving good situations is also a concern. While it’s nice to have a
network of players who provide information about great game
opportunities, it can prove unwise to share too much with a large
audience. When information about something particularly good gets out
onto the Net, it often leads to a flood of players converging on a game all
at once. When a casino running a good game or promotion suddenly sees
a bunch of unknown faces betting big bucks, those good situations tend
to deteriorate quickly.
You may also encounter players offering to sell information about
profitable games. Keep in mind that if someone is making money by
providing information about an exploitable situation, you’re probably
not the only person buying it. Remember: If two people know a secret,
it’s no longer a secret!
The Best Players You Don’t Know
Remember that in order to be a successful player, you must remain
unknown. That goes for socializing with other card counters. If you’re
uncertain who has access to certain websites, exercise caution with
regard to whom you communicate with. Keep a low profile and be wary
about conveying information about yourself. It gets lonely playing solo,
especially during a losing trip. If you’re fortunate enough to get into the
right network, you can find your way onto a successful team where
you’ll have other players around. But make sure it’s the right network,
meaning one with other low-profile players, who also aren’t known,
haven’t been barred, and certainly do not appear in the infamous photo
album known as the Griffin Book, or other databases of player
photos/profiles that are accessible by casinos.
Playing Blackjack on the Internet
Online gaming grew quickly around the world and is now a multi-
billion-dollar industry. However, as a result of government efforts to
contain it, online gambling is nowhere near as accessible in the U.S. as it
is in other countries. Online poker is making breakthroughs in the U.S.
and gambling of all types, including blackjack, will likely follow.
Except on rare occasions, the methods for gaining an advantage
outlined in this book won’t work when playing blackjack online. Some
players, however, have discovered another way to outsmart the online
casinos. It’s called “bonus-hustling.” Scouting, record-keeping, and
playing applicable basic strategy for the game at hand are some of the
keys to success in online bonus hunting. The out-of-print Crushing the
Internet Casinos by Barry Meadow is one of the best sources for
information on this topic, even though many of the specific opportunities
it references no longer exist.
In addition to playing blackjack against an online casino, you can also
match your tournament skills against other players, and profitable
situations can be found in online tournament play (see the next chapter
for information on playing blackjack tournaments online).
21
Blackjack Tournaments

On a September afternoon in 2004, after returning to my office

following lunch with a colleague, I retrieved the following phone
message: “Rick. It’s Max Rubin. We want to know if you’re interested in
playing in the second World Series of Blackjack. First prize is two
hundred and fifty grand. It’s going to be filmed and televised on GSN.
Call me back.”
I returned Max’s call, and after he told me it would be okay to wear a
subtle disguise, I agreed to participate.
I’ve played a few tournaments and held my own, but I’m far from
being a tournament expert. I figured that in order to give myself a
fighting chance against a strong field of tournament talent, I needed to
tap into some resources.
The first thing I did was dig out my copy of Stanford Wong’s book,
Casino Tournament Strategy. I went through the section on blackjack
tournaments and took some notes.
Next, I cruised onto Ken Smith’s website, blackjacktournaments.com,
and found a wealth of current information on tournament strategies. I
printed about a dozen pages of material and went through it,
highlighting numerous points.
The third step was to seek out some expert tutelage. I contacted my
good friend Mr. Lucky, who’s played in many tournaments and won a
few along the way. Lucky referred me to someone whom he hailed as the
best in the business: S. Yama. I phoned Mr. Yama, who was extremely
generous in sharing information.
The final part of my training involved studying the opposition. A
friend had tapes from the past year’s tournament, and I reviewed them
several times. Since I knew many of the participants would be returning
to the tables this year, I wanted to get a feel for each one’s style.
Competitors in most sporting events study films of their opponents, so
why not here? This was very helpful.
The two missing components were some form of practice software
geared for blackjack tournaments and live practice, either online or in a
casino. Though both of these are available, time didn’t permit me to avail
myself of them before playing.
The tournament format consisted of eight preliminary rounds of five
players each. The preliminary rounds consisted of 25 hands. The winner
of each table progressed to the semi-finals and second-place finishers
went into a wild-card round. In the semi-finals, the top two finishers
from each of the two tables advanced to the final table.
The tournament was held at the Golden Nugget Casino in Las Vegas.
Shortly after arrival, I met up with some other participants, a few of
whom I already knew and others whom I was meeting for the first time.
A preliminary round had just ended, and everyone was congratulating
Viktor Nacht, who had just won, with Mickey Rosa taking second place.
Mickey was a bit hurried, as he had to jump right into the wild-card
round moments later. I wished him luck, but he didn’t get past the tough
opposition.
My opponents were author and gambling expert Henry Tamburin;
Nancy Kubasek, an experienced tournament player; Kami Lis, a highly
skilled professional player; and Michael Konik, another author and
gambling expert. The only returning player from the first tournament
was Michael. He’s a very aggressive player who comes out swinging for
the fences. More than one person told me I had a tough table, as all four
opponents were skilled tournament players.
A few changes to my appearance—on with my Oxxford suit and a
pair of shades—and next thing I knew I was in seat number two with
Henry on my right and Nancy, wearing a blue wig, to my left. Wired for
sound and with lights blaring and cameras rolling, we were underway. I
started off betting the minimum. Michael, as predicted, came out strong.
He was the one player I was most worried about, since his aggressive
style could get him a big lead fast. But it turned out that the opposite
occurred, as Michael busted out on hand 12.
 Once Michael left the table, I immediately recalculated what my
betting position would be on the final hand. Although Kami had the
lead, it turned out that I was in the best betting position. If no one else
busted prior to the final hand, I’d be the last to act on the end, which is a
powerful spot to be in.
Having observed my three remaining opponents over the first 12
hands, my take was that they weren’t aggressive players. Based on that
assumption, I decided it would be best to make an aggressive move at an
early opportunity. On hand 15, when I was second to act following
Henry, I came out with a moderate-sized bet, which lost. My next move
came two hands later, when I was last to act. I put up a large bet and this
time I won and took the lead. I was feeling strong, but still had eight
hands to go.
The lead bounced back to Kami on hand 20, and on hand 22 I put out
a large bet and reclaimed the lead. That didn’t last long, as Kami took it
from me on the next hand. I was the first to bet on hand 24 and decided
to go with the minimum. Afterwards, several experts expressed their
belief that I should have gone for the lead, as it would have been a huge
advantage to go into the final hand with the chip lead and being last to
bet.
Betting in front of me on the final hand, Nancy bet the max and Kami
made an extremely well-calculated wager. I went with the minimum,
hoping for a “lose-lose” result, which would have given me the win. My
bet also made it necessary for Nancy to win a double to beat me for the
wild-card spot. The dealer showed an ace up and, even though she didn’t
have the natural, things were looking good for me. Nancy doubled down
her maximum bet and I realized then that I should have known that she
would double no matter what. With the ace up, the dealer was still a
favorite to beat the table. However, she had to hit and busted the hand,
dropping me to third place. I was out of the tournament, having been
outplayed on the last hand.
The fact is, the cream should, and usually does, rise in blackjack
tournaments. This means that you can enjoy a significant advantage
playing them if you practice and become skilled. Tournament play is also
fun, and in today’s TV environment, it offers the opportunity for
additional lines of positive EV. For example, as this book goes to press,
I’ve been invited to compete in the first Ultimate Blackjack Tour (UBT), a
televised tournament with a new playing format and a prize pool of $1.4
million.
The downside to tournament play is that you become highly visible
by playing them—especially when you win. Disguises help, but the most
successful players in the televised events figure to shorten their playing
careers (in outside play) as a consequence. Still, the potential profits from
big-time tournament play may make this an acceptable trade for you.
Due to the rise in popularity of blackjack tournaments, you can
pursue several sources of information to learn to play them well. In the
end, though, there’s no substitute for experience. You simply can’t
become a winning tournament player without playing tournaments.
Fundamentals
The most important fundamental concepts of tournament play are
relatively easy to learn.
1. Bet your money—Winning a tournament requires that you reach a
specified goal regarding your chip count relative to that of your
opponents. The best way to do this is to use all of your available chips to
accumulate more. It’s imperative that you get as many of your chips into
play as possible during the short period of play. Don’t try to get fancy at
the expense of achieving this goal. As the pros say, “When in doubt, put
it out.”
2. Consider position—As in most games, position is very important. Be
aware of where you’ll bet on the final hand and play accordingly. If
you’ll be betting first or near first, be even more aggressive. The closer
you’ll be to betting last, the more you can afford to be out of position at
the end. This is because you can play off the bets of your opponents. But
be careful; you have to know what you’re doing to take advantage of
this. Beginners should be aggressive regardless of position (see next).
3. Position yourself—The rule of thumb is to be in the position you
need to be in to advance or win going into the last hand. Even if you
have perfect position on the end, all players—and especially beginners—
are much better off being in the lead with one hand to play. Bet in a
manner that optimizes your chances of getting to this spot, then be
prepared to bet the maximum on the end.
4. Be alert in the play—Tournaments are mostly about betting, but
they’re also about how you play your hand. Card counting isn’t
important, given the short duration of play; it’s okay to play your hands
according to basic strategy. But not always. If you’re playing alertly,
you’ll notice key situations where you must play your hand contrary to
basic to give yourself a chance. A perfect example is Nancy Kubasek’s
last-hand double down described earlier in this chapter.
5. Consider equity—Equity is the relationship between the amount of
money collected in entry fees and the amount returned in prize money.
Most blackjack tournaments are 100% equity (or better). If you play many
tournaments with less than even equity, it will take its toll.
Tournament expert Ken Einiger won the World Series of Blackjack II
and promptly wrote his book Play to Win. PTW covers these fundamental
concepts (and others) in much greater detail. It also explains tournament-
play considerations from the ground up—how to find them, enter them,
prepare for them, etc. Play to Win is a must-read for anyone entering this
arena.
Advanced Play
Study and practice are what it takes to advance to the expert level as a
tournament player. I’ve already mentioned Stanford Wong’s book, Casino
Tournament Strategy. It provides an in-depth treatment of last-hand
scenarios. It’s technical, but essential to winning play. Wong also has a
software program called Tournament Blackjack. It’s decent, but I expect
other programs to surface in the near future. Also be on the lookout for
the book Hollywood Blackjack, by Hollywood Dave Stann, a colorful
participant on the tournament circuit, who took second place in the
inaugural World Series of Blackjack.
On the Web, Ken Smith’s blackjacktournaments.com, which I cited
earlier, is an excellent source of information. Another is Anthony Curtis’
LasVegasAdvisor.com. The LVA site has a message board devoted to the
UBT, which also generates discussions on other aspects of tournament
play. LVA also maintains lists of upcoming tournaments and valuable
analysis of the big TV tournaments written by Anthony Curtis.
As I’ve mentioned, you can’t become a great tournament player
without practicing in real tournaments. Almost all of the major casino
destinations have casinos that run mini tournaments. Usually costing $20
or $25 to enter, these minis are where you improve and enhance your
game. LasVegasAdvisor.com keeps an up-to-date list of such
tournaments in Las Vegas and has plans to expand its coverage.
You can also play blackjack tournaments at selected sites online—
either on full-fledged money sites, or on subscription services, such as
ClubWPT.com. This and other subscription services provide an excellent
way to learn the ropes of blackjack (and poker) tournaments without
risking a lot of money. In these clubs, you pay one monthly fee to become
a member, which qualifies you to play as many tournaments as you want
for prizes, cash, and even seats to major events, but there are no
additional entry fees or buy-ins, so your losses are capped.
22

The Comp Game and Travel

Strategies
The Allure
The casinos, having a built-in advantage in just about every game
they offer, know that they’ll win money from the players in the long run.
The key is to keep them at the tables. One method of doing so is to offer
comps. Depending on the amount one is wagering, the casino offers
meals, rooms, and more to demonstrate that they value the player’s
business. What they really mean is that they’re welcoming the player to
lose more money at their tables. People easily fall into the trap of
thinking they’re getting something for nothing.
Typical story. A man has been playing blackjack in a casino, betting
$100 a hand. He’s been at it for about two hours when his wife stops by
the table. She asks, “Are you winning?” He responds, “I’m up about
$500.” She then says, “Well, let’s go then.” He tells her, “I just ordered a
drink; we can leave after I get it.” Fifteen minutes later his drink arrives,
but not before he loses $1,000. Instead of leaving the table a $500 winner,
he ended up a $500 loser, but he got his free drink!
Play on Your Own Terms
Players don’t stop to consider what they’re risking to get a freebie,
which wouldn’t really cost much upon closer inspection. When playing
for a specific comp, it’s important to know how long you must play and
what your average bet must be in order to get that comp in that particular
casino. The criteria for comp eligibility vary from casino to casino. If
you’re going to Las Vegas during a time of year when room rates are
low, you’d be better off paying the $40 per night, rather than betting
higher than you normally would or playing longer just to get the room
for free. If you don’t normally eat large meals, paying for the $10–$20
buffet may suit your needs, instead of playing at the table an additional
30 minutes just for a free meal, when a game has deteriorated.
A typical situation is where a player asks a floorperson for a comp.
The floorperson responds, “You’ve only been playing for forty-five
minutes. See me in another hour and I’ll see what I can do.” Most players
fall into this trap and end up losing more bets just to get their free meal.
That is why it is imperative to play on your own terms.
Do Your Homework
There are ways to save money and get comps without even placing a
wager in a casino. It all starts when you first decide to take your trip.
Airfare
Frequent Flier Programs
It’s a good strategy to do your air travel using one specific airline.
You can accumulate points in that airline’s frequent-flier program and
eventually get a free airline ticket. The target number most airlines use to
qualify for a free round-trip flight anywhere in the continental United
States is 25,000. However, you don’t need to actually fly 25,000 miles to
achieve this. Some shortcuts are:
• When first joining the airline’s frequent-flier program, you usually
get an enrollment bonus in points.
• Some airlines offer bonus points for travel at different times of the
year or to select destinations.
• Some airlines offer bonus points when purchasing your ticket with
a credit card or other payment method (e.g., electronic ticketing).
• When staying at a hotel or renting a car, find out which hotels or
car rental companies are partners with the airline. By using the
partners, you earn points on your airline frequent-flier account.
• Some credit cards have programs in which, for every dollar you
spend using that credit card, you earn points on your airline
frequent-flier account.
• Your telephone long-distance service provider may have a
program under which your long-distance expenses can earn
points on your airline frequent-flier account.
• Various retailers have similar programs that can also earn you
points, such as ordering flowers or custom shirts.
 Check the different airlines’ programs to see how you can achieve
maximum benefits.
Overbooked Flights
If you once again do a little homework, you can get a free airline
ticket by using some creativity. Airlines often overbook flights by selling
more seats than are actually available, which allows for some “no-
shows” along the way. At times, they end up having to turn away
passengers from a specific flight prior to boarding. When this happens,
they usually put the passenger on the next scheduled flight out to that
destination and offer a form of compensation for this inconvenience. This
compensation can be a free round-trip airline ticket for a future date.
Here’s how to optimize your chances of getting bumped:
Check the airline’s schedule and make sure that they offer two or
more flights the same day, within a few hours of each another.
Call the airline to check for availability on the early flights out. If
there’s limited availability, book it. It doesn’t matter if the same situation
exists on the later flight(s), because if you are “bounced” from the first
flight, you will be almost guaranteed first priority to get on the next
available flight. As an added bonus, if only first-class seats are available,
guess who may get it? Party on!
When you arrive at the gate to check in for your scheduled flight (try
to arrive at least one hour prior), ask the attendant if the flight is
overbooked. If so, offer to volunteer your seat, only if you’ll be confirmed
on the next available flight and might be compensated with a free round-
trip ticket for a future flight.
If you’re creative enough and do your homework, you can, in theory,
fly every other flight for free.
Package Deals
When shopping around for the best airfares, you’ll usually bump up
against some restrictions, such as you need to stay over a Saturday and
book at least 14 days in advance. Many airlines have a “vacation package
desk.” Booking your trip through them, you can end up paying less in
airfare than you normally would. The casino/hotels make rooms
available for such discounted airfare/hotel packages. Here’s a recent
example of such a savings:
Checking the airlines for round-trip airfare from New York to Las
Vegas for a two-night stay, I found the following.
Lowest available airfare per person:
$298—late-night flights
$360—normal flights
Room Rates:
$0—(comped)
After checking with this same airline’s vacation package desk, I was
quoted the following deal:
Airfare + two nights hotel per person:
$302—late-night flights
$321—normal flights
Yes, you read that correctly. By booking through the airline’s vacation
package desk, I ended up with not only a lower airfare, but the room also
included, giving me the ability to save my comp for a later date.
When booking your trip through the airline’s vacation package desk,
it’s not necessary to stay over a Saturday.
For the absolute lowest rates, restrict your travel to Sunday through
Thursday and take those dreadful late-night flights (departing from the
West Coast around midnight for arrival in East Coast cities around
sunrise, referred to as “red-eyes”), if you can deal with them.
You can extend your stay to more than two nights without paying
more for the package and use your comp for those additional nights.
When booking a hotel/air package, as long as you book the hotel for
minimum of two nights, you can book the flights for any days, without
the restriction of booking the additional hotel nights through them.
You can also book a “fly/drive” package, where you’re not required
to book a hotel at all. In this method, the airline vacation package desk
will get you the same super-discounted airfare, along with a car rental
included in the price. If you already have a room comp for your stay and
want to rent a car, this is a good deal. If you don’t want the car rental,
you’re under no obligation to actually pick up the car. Just book the
package with the car rental included and never pick up the car! You still
get the low package airfare price, with the car rental price included.
Now that we have some strategies to get you to your destination, let’s
discuss a little more about getting the best deal on rooms.
Saving Money on Hotel Rooms
For popular casino cities such as Reno and Lake Tahoe, check the
Sunday issue of the San Francisco Chronicle’s “Date-book” section and for
Las Vegas, check the Los Angeles Times’ “Calendar” section, which lists
current room specials in various casinos.
If you have Internet access, you can surf numerous websites that may
list special deals for hotel rooms in casino towns.
Call various casinos in the city you’re planning to visit and ask for a
casino host. Tell the host you’re a rated player at (name a few casinos)
and interested in checking out his club. Then ask if a room can be
arranged for you. Chances are you’ll be offered a room at casino rate (a
good discounted rate) with the understanding that at the end of your
visit, he’ll evaluate your play to determine if your action warrants a full
room comp.
Check for a coupon in funbooks (coupon books given out by casinos)
you may have from a previous visit, which may contain special room
discounts or two-nights-for-the-price-of-one specials.
Booking directly through the hotel reservations desk will usually
result in being quoted the highest room rate.
Complimentaries
Basic Comps
These are comps that can be obtained without even giving your name
to be rated to a pit person.
Parking—In most casinos, parking is free. You can self-park or use the
valet. If you use the valet, you have to tip appropriately. In some places,
you may need to have your parking ticket validated at the cashier’s cage
of the casino.
Cocktails/Beverages—Shortly after you sit down at a table, a cocktail
server will approach you and ask if you’d like to order a beverage. It’s
that simple and there’s no minimum betting requirement. It’s customary
to tip the server.
 Line Passes—If you’re seeing a show or going to pay for a meal at the
buffet/coffee shop without having qualified for a comp, you can ask for
a line pass, which allows you to go in the “invited-guests” line without
having to wait in long lines. The pit is usually very generous in giving
line passes, as they want you back at the tables as soon as possible, and
helping you avoid waiting on long lines accomplishes this.
Rating Slips
When you sit down at a table, a pit person normally asks you if you
wish to be rated. This is the process whereby the casino keeps track of the
amount of money you buy in for, your average bet, length of time you
play, and your win/loss. Based on this information, the casino may
extend you comps of different levels.
Meals—If you sit down at a table and play for an hour, you can
normally get a meal comp for two. Depending on the casino, the amount
you bet will determine whether you get a comp for the buffet or coffee
shop. Comps for gourmet restaurants usually require a higher bet level
and more playing time at the tables. At some casinos in Las Vegas, Reno,
and elsewhere, a player can score a meal comp for one hour of $5 average
betting.
You usually have to ask for a comp, so do it. At times it will be
offered to you. Always accept it even if you don’t plan on using it
immediately. Normally, meal comps are valid for 24 hours; you’ll
probably plan on eating at some point during that time.
After you’ve played for an hour, always ask for a meal comp, if you
haven’t already been offered one. Even if you don’t plan on using it
immediately, ask anyway for the same reason as stated above.
Always ask for a comp for two to the coffee shop (unless your betting
qualifies for a gourmet room). If the pit person replies that your play
doesn’t qualify yet, ask if you can get the buffet for two, or the buffet or
coffee shop for one. A little negotiating usually gets you something.
Rooms—The best method for getting a comped room is to ensure it’s
arranged prior to your arrival at the casino. This can be accomplished
based on your previous play in that casino and executed in a variety of
ways. If you’re staying as a guest with someone else who already has a
comped room, you have the opportunity to establish yourself as a player
in that casino or several casinos to set up future comped rooms. While
the person who’s being comped has a certain playing requirement to
fulfill in order to be invited back for a subsequent comp, you’re a new
player; the casino should look at you as a potential regular. Casinos have
different criteria based on play whereby they can extend a room comp.
For a standard room, you can score a free one-night room for roughly
four hours of play, betting as low as a $25 average bet in some places.
When you’re traveling with another and can stay in the same hotel
room, it’s best to do so. Both of you are being rated separately and the
comped room is being applied against only one of your accounts. In the
event the comped player is unable, for any reason, to satisfy the play
requirements to qualify for a subsequent comp, the other player may be
able to qualify.
Spread your action around town. Don’t initially limit your action to
any one casino. Play in various clubs, get on all the mailing lists, and then
determine which place treats you the best. You may receive invitations in
the mail for free rooms.
Once you settle on a place or two where you are comfortable playing
and staying, get to know a casino host and pit boss there. Get friendly
with them. Take their business cards, when offered. When planning your
next visit, phone them to see if they can arrange for a room for you.
When you phone for a room in advance and are told that they are
unable to comp you a room, as you didn’t give enough action, ask if your
previous play qualifies for a room at “casino rate.” They may offer this to
you anyway. Take it, as casino rate can be half the price of the rate
regular hotel guests might pay. They may also tell you that “If your play
qualifies for a room comp, we will adjust your bill when you check out.”
Limiting your play to just this casino is fine. If you plan on spreading
your action amongst several casinos, just take the casino rate and pay it
without expecting any further discounts, but if you’ve given some action
to the casino, you may want to ask anyway at the end of your stay.
If you are not established in a casino where you are staying, but you
are being rated and betting within the guidelines that may qualify for a
room comp, let the pit know that you are a hotel guest there. After
you’ve been playing for a few hours, ask if they can take care of your
room. You may get your room comped or perhaps get it discounted to
casino rate.
If there are two of you staying in the same room, see if your total play
combined might qualify for a room comp or discounted rate.
Room, Food & Beverage (“RFB”)
If you are an established player betting well within the casino
guidelines for such comps, you will be invited to stay as an “RFB Guest”
of the casino. As an RFB guest, you get your room comped (“R”), along
with all food, which can be room service or any of the restaurants (“F”),
and drinks, bottles of wine, champagne at all bars, restaurants or orders
from room service (“B”). In many casinos, to qualify for such an RFB
comp, a player would need to play for four hours per day at an average
bet of $150 per hand.
If you and the other person staying with you aren’t big drinkers, you
may be able to negotiate an RFB comp without the “B.” By doing so, you
may be able to score the comp despite betting a little less than the
standard RFB requirement. Even if you like to drink a bit, you can order
your drinks while playing (preferably toward the end of your playing
sessions, so as to not hinder your playing ability). If you’re a non-
discriminating diner, you may be able to further negotiate your comp by
having the casino limit your food comps to a certain dollar amount. Such
negotiated comps fall under the category of Room, Food, Limited
(“RFL”).
Airline-Ticket Reimbursement
As you become an established player in a casino, you may qualify for
reimbursement of the cost of your airline tickets. If your casino host
doesn’t offer this to you, you can ask. Although your play may not
warrant a total reimbursement for the ticket(s), you may qualify for a
partial rebate. A $200 average bet is probably the minimum to qualify for
some sort of airfare rebate. When calculating a player’s eligibility for a
comp such as airfare reimbursement, the casino may have some
additional criteria that must be met, such as a minimum requirement for
hours played. In the past, the common requirement was a minimum of
12 hours play. Other requirements may be a minimum amount of front
money on deposit or a minimum credit line. Many casinos reimburse
airfare only for players who stay at the hotel. Sometimes, a player comes
out betting heavy and loses all his front money before reaching the
minimum hourly requirement. In this case, the casino may elect to
reimburse based on actual loss, provided certain criteria are met.
Take a situation where a player puts $20,000 on deposit at the start of
a three-day stay. Airfare reimbursement at this casino requires a
minimum of 12 hours play at a minimum average bet of $200. After
playing nine hours, the player loses $16,000 with a recorded $500 average
bet. In this case, although the player didn’t meet the terms for
reimbursement based on theoretical loss (he’s light on hours played), he
may be eligible for airfare reimbursement based on his actual loss of
$16,000 regardless of hours played and average bet size. If the casino’s
policy is to reimburse 10% of a player’s actual loss toward the cost of
airline tickets, this player is eligible for up to $1,600.
The next step is for the player to present copies of his ticket and the
ticket of his traveling companion, if applicable, to determine the total
reimbursement. If he presents tickets totaling only $400, then that’s all
he’ll receive. If the tickets total $2,400, all he’ll get is $1,600, representing
a partial airfare reimbursement. However, a creative player can
maximize his benefit here. In addition to an example provided later in
this chapter, the subject is covered well in Max Rubin’s book Comp City,
as well as in Ian Andersen’s Burning the Tables in Las Vegas.
Let’s take a closer look at the two above scenarios.
If your airline tickets are less than your eligible reimbursement
amount, there are various techniques for coming up with a second set of
tickets to get the higher value. Basically, purchase and fly on the less-
expensive tickets, while also buying fully refundable first-class tickets
with another airline. Present the higher-value tickets for reimbursement,
subsequently turning them in to the airline for a refund. Of course, there
are precautions to consider, such as if you are being picked up and
dropped off at the airport by a casino limousine. Of course, you want to
avoid this, but for image purposes, you may need to improvise so you’re
dropped in one place and have time to get to where you really need to
be. It’s not difficult. Be prepared for anything, even a casino host riding
along in the limo, taking your tickets, and assisting with your checkin at
the airline counter. Oops!
If casino records show your cumulative loss as being lower than the
price of your airline tickets, you can fix that. A quick session transferring
chips with a partner, as outlined in Chapter 14, can show a higher loss
without much effort. See the section “Disguising Wins And Hiding
Chips.”
An American Express Platinum cardholder went on a business trip to
an overseas destination with casinos offering decent blackjack. One of the
benefits of the platinum card is that you get a free companion ticket
when purchasing a business or first-class ticket on designated airlines. In
addition to his full-time job, this guy was a part-time blackjack player
working on a team. He used the free ticket to take a teammate along and
used vacation time to extend the trip for casino play. The price of the
paid airline ticket was about $8,500. Although the companion ticket on
this program is free (except for the taxes), it’s an airline requirement for
auditing purposes that the full airfare is shown on the ticket. After giving
sufficient action to his host casino, he presented two first-class tickets,
each showing a cost of $8,500, and received $17,000 cash. Since he was on
a business trip, his company paid for his $8,500 ticket, leaving his team
with only the expense of the taxes and other fees (roughly $400) for the
otherwise free companion ticket. The $17,000 was considered team
money in accordance with their regulations.
A teammate was playing at a casino and losing. Although his
numbers didn’t qualify for airfare reimbursement, he managed to
schmooze the host and, on settling his account, received a cash
equivalent for the price of his ticket. With time to burn before departure,
he played one final session. He won big, turning his losing trip into a
winner. It was nice timing on his part, though it didn’t please his host
any!
Airline-ticket reimbursement is a comp where the casino is actually
giving you cash, which they really don’t like to do. As an advantage
player, it’s your job to do your homework and learn the best routes to get
the casinos to dip into their cash boxes.
Loss-Rebate Programs
Casinos have been offering loss rebates for many years, but they don’t
go around advertising it. Though a loss rebate is one of the strongest
marketing weapons in a casino arsenal, it can, at times, provide
knowledgeable players with the ammunition to turn a losing game into a
winning one. Several variables are involved in how rebate programs are
structured by the casinos. We’ll start by looking at how a loss rebate
works in its simplest form.
Let’s say you’re offered the opportunity to wager $100 on each flip in
a series of coin tosses, where you win even money on each winning
wager and lose even money on each losing wager, but after X number of
flips, you receive a 10% rebate on the losing wagers. For example, if you
bet on 10 flips, winning five and losing five, you’ll be paid a total of $500
(5 x $100) and also pay out $500 (5 x $100), thus breaking even on the
game. But then the loss rebate enters the equation, and you receive $50,
representing the agreed upon 10% rebate on each of your losing wagers
(5 x $10). If it were only that simple!
In today’s cutthroat environment, competition for the highest-level
players has grown to a point where one casino has to offer something
more than the next in order to win the business. Players, in turn, are
becoming more educated and are now shopping around for the best deal.
It’s no longer just about the biggest and most elaborate hotel suites,
gourmet restaurants, top entertainment, private jets, and free gifts (such
as expensive jewelry and shopping sprees), it’s also about negotiating the
best loss-rebate deal.
I’ve used the word “negotiating” here for two reasons. First, although
the casino has a benchmark for its typical loss rebate, it’s always
negotiable. Second, the profile of the typical high-level player is that of a
successful highly competitive player. The nature of business deals in
which such an individual engages often involves a high level of
negotiating. It’s gotten to the point where negotiating has become a
competitive sport in many business cultures. Therefore, when
negotiating a loss rebate with a casino, many players view it as a game in
which their goal is to beat the casino into a deal that’s better than the
standard offer.
It happens all the time, but the most famous example of a big win
materializing from a negotiated deal occurred in Atlantic City in 2011,
when a finance expert named Don Johnson beat a couple of casinos there
for several million dollars. Johnson was a good player, but his win was
more attributable to the skillful manner in which he set up his deal,
which allowed him to bet large amounts knowing the refund was
pending if he lost. As it worked out, he won. Better yet!
To get the most value out of a loss rebate, an advantage player would
like to make one and only one bet. If the bet wins, he leaves. If it loses, he
collects the rebate and leaves. Imagine being able to do this once per day
indefinitely! But the casinos are aware that their theoretical advantage is
based on a great number of wagering decisions and as a result, they
usually require a certain volume of bets before a player qualifies for a
loss rebate. Since the player is required to put a lot of money in action, he
needs to be aware of the important variables.
1. The house advantage when flat betting and playing perfect basic
strategy is the first thing that needs to be considered. You want to play in
a game offering the most player-favorable conditions. In addition to
negotiating a higher loss rebate, Don Johnson managed to get some
Atlantic City casinos to modify their blackjack rules and increase their
table maximums just for him, in exchange for giving them an agreed-
upon level of play.
2. Based on the rebate deal, a betting and playing strategy must be
devised that preserves a player advantage beyond the point the casino
establishes as the minimum-play amount. A typical scenario might be
that a player is required to deposit $500,000 in front money and play it
through a minimum of five times to be eligible for a rebate on losses. The
strategy needs to ensure that he’s playing at an advantage after putting
this amount of money in action with the rebate considered. But here’s the
important part: You have to do this without looking like a card counter
or an otherwise similarly competent player. You also have to know how
to run the numbers to determine if you have to move your bets too much
to preserve an edge, thereby needing a better loss rebate to participate if
you do. Since you’ll experience some winning trips, a key element in
incorporating a loss-rebate strategy into your game is determining at
what point of a win a player should quit and call it a trip. Knowing the
proper stopping point is a key element in forming an optimal strategy.
Currently, nothing on the market can formulate these strategies, but
Norm Wattenberger, creator of the Casino Verite software products, is
developing such a tool.
3. Loss rebates work best as stand-alone programs that don’t
incorporate other complimentary offers. If comps such as room, food,
beverage, shows, and airfare are applied toward the loss rebate, it
decreases the amount of cash you can walk with. The best programs offer
a loss rebate and complimentaries independent of one another. For
example, a program might require $100,000 in front money or a credit
line that’s turned over a minimum of five times for a 15% rebate on
losses. Additionally, complimentaries are added in based on .25% of the
total action wagered for the trip. With this program, you get the comps
as outlined, win or lose, and if the criteria are met to justify a loss rebate,
you get that in cash—in addition to the comps.
4. Determine if the loss rebate is based on a minimum loss amount—
you need to know all of the parameters of the deal and what’s required
of you before you start.
5. Determine how soon a new “trip” can commence after settlement
of a prior trip. In theory, if a player comes in on a Friday and meets the
minimum requirement for a loss rebate by Saturday, he can conclude his
trip, collect the rebate, check out of the casino, then check back in and
start a new trip immediately. This isn’t the most convenient application,
but it can be done.
6. What method do the pit and cashier use to monitor/record table
results for each session? If the casino uses specific chips for the purpose
of tracking rebate players, it gives them a better tool for accurately
monitoring win/loss. Some casinos assign a floor person to record every
bet made by a player on a rebate program. Yes, you read that correctly—
your own personal floorperson records the result of every hand you play.
In all cases, it’s important to verify what the floorperson’s results show at
the end of each session. If you lost big, it’s imperative that the loss is
recorded accurately.
Rolling-Chip Rebate Programs
“Rolling-chip” programs are common in Asian casinos. Since the
basis of these programs is the use of non-cash chips, we first need to
differentiate between the two popular forms offered by casinos.
Action Chips—Cannot be exchanged for cash and can be used for table
play only. An action chip is good for a one-time bet. Win or lose, the chip
is collected by the dealer. For example, if you bet a $100 action chip and
win, the dealer takes the chip and pays you with a $100 cash chip.
Non-Negotiable Chips—Just as with action chips, non-negotiables
cannot be exchanged for cash. The difference is that a non-negotiable
chip is played until it loses. If you bet a $100 non-negotiable chip and win,
the dealer pays with a $100 cash chip, but does not collect the non-
negotiable chip. You can then play the same non-negotiable chip over
and over until it loses.
Non-negotiable chips are obviously more valuable than action chips.
There are also other considerations that affect their value:
How does the casino treat bets with either of these chips when a
wager results in a tie? If the chip is collected on ties, it decreases its value.
Are you restricted to even-money wagers or can you bet these chips
on propositions with higher payouts? Mathematically, the chips are
worth more on bets with higher payouts, e.g., 35-1 on a roulette number
straight up or 8-1 on the baccarat tie bet. Your expected return is higher
on the long-shot wagers, although the variance when playing them goes
up, creating more risk.
Are naturals paid at 3-2 or are the payouts restricted to even money?
If payouts on naturals are restricted to even money, the value of the chips
is decreased.
Can the chips be used for insurance, surrender, splits, and double
downs? Being allowed to use the chips for all playing options increases
their value.
How does the casino staff (pit and cashier) monitor results? If the
casino closely monitors your play and results, it reduces the
opportunities for teammates to exchange chips.
Loss-rebate programs can be very valuable for players. Since the
programs vary by casino, all of the scenarios cannot be addressed here.
However, creative players have been successful in exploiting loss rebates
for years and programs of varying value are there for the taking,
especially when you employ creative methods.
A Creative Loss Rebate
If your level of play doesn’t qualify for a loss rebate, you can create
your own. In his book Comp City, Max Rubin talks about players who
maximize airfare reimbursement using various techniques. For example,
some casinos will reimburse up to 10% of a player’s actual loss, but apply
it only toward the cost of airline tickets. As suggested by Max, a player
can purchase and present a set of fully refundable airline tickets valued
in the neighborhood of 10% of his front money, while actually traveling
via less-expensive tickets. Now, whether a true loss or an exaggerated
loss has been recorded by the casino, the player has, in essence, created
his own loss-rebate program.
Other Comps
Other comps you can score are free golf, show tickets, fight tickets,
and tickets to other special events. When you’re playing, ask a pit person
or casino host if you qualify for such comps. If they say you don’t
currently qualify, find out the criteria for the comp you want.
Some Final Tips on Scoring Comps
When you first sit down to play and the pit person is filling out your
rating slip, make your first few bets higher than normal. This may help
get you a higher rating. After the pit person leaves, you can lower your
bet. If the pit person returns, you may wish to raise your bet again. Use
this method if you’re playing strictly for comps. When combining card
counting with playing for comps, you’ll need to consider what the count
is when the pit person visits the table. If the count is high, there’s no
problem making that big bet. However, if the count is low, you may
want to consider taking a restroom break to avoid exposing a smaller bet
and jeopardizing your rating. You can also use your own creativity to
figure out reasons to sit out a hand or two when being observed during a
poor count.
Play in a pit where the floorpeople have several tables to monitor.
They won’t have the time or luxury to monitor any one table closely. This
takes some pre-scouting.
If you’re playing strictly for comps, look for shoe games with a slow
dealer, poor penetration, and a full table with slow players. While such
games are undesirable for card counters, the slow pace of such games
gives a player looking to score comps the luxury of playing fewer hands
per hour, thus risking less money.
If playing strictly for comps, try to schedule your play shortly before
the playing cards at that table will be changed. This procedure provides
about 10–15 minutes of down time for which you’ll receive credit,
without having to place a bet. This commonly occurs around the
changing of shifts.
• Ask for your desired comp.
• Ask in a nice way and smile.
• Ask as though you know you’re entitled to the comp.
Whether you’re counting cards or not, the comps are there for the
asking. It’s up to you to get them. It can be as simple as asking.
23
Airline Travel Security

For international travel, laws define what you can and can’t do in
terms of carrying money. If you fail to follow them, you could be
subjected to arrest and confiscation of your cash. When traveling
overseas, if you have no alternative but to carry cash, I strongly advise
that you familiarize yourself with and strictly adhere to the laws of the
countries you’re visiting, as well as U.S. laws regarding transport of
currencies. When traveling within the United States, there are no
restrictions on the amount of currency one may carry, at the time of this
writing. However, there have been reports of individuals who have been
victimized under the guise of “suspicious activity” for carrying what was
considered large amounts of cash.
Beware Local Law Enforcement
Upon passing through airport security, if you’re pulled aside by
reason of suspicion (justified or unjustified), you’ll immediately be
turned over by airport security to local police. The federal authorities
won’t be in the picture yet. This is where the problems have arisen. In
some jurisdictions, individuals who have been detained as a result of
carrying large sums of cash claim that all their cash was confiscated, but
the total amount officially reported as confiscated was less than what
was truly taken. In other words, the victim claimed the cops stole the
money.
Protective Measures
If at all possible, try to find an alternative to carrying cash. Carrying
travelers’ checks for domestic travel can work. Even if you’re playing
under an alias at a given casino and several casinos are in the area, you
can usually go next door to cash your travelers’ checks. If you’re using
your real name and are comfortable with having a Currency Transaction
Report (“CTR”) filed in your name for a cash transaction in excess of
$10,000, it may be a good idea to wire money in or use similar means.
I have not verified whether these are workable, but they are
suggestions from a reliable source:
Have your attorney and/or accountant write a letter indicating that
you plan to carry (exact amount of cash), and such amount has been
officially recorded. If you really want to go overboard (remember,
paranoia can save lives!), have the actual denominations and serial
numbers of the bills included. Note: This will be in sync with what you
carry on your departing flight. After a win/loss, you’ll have different
amounts and different bills/serial numbers. You can attach amended
records to this letter and the letter can be worded as such to allow for this
latitude.
Carry a certified copy of your most recent tax return, highlighting the
areas that demonstrate gambling activities. This should divert any
attention from an illegal activity to that of legal gambling, as
documented.
If you’ve withdrawn in excess of $10K in cash from your bank, as you
know, they file a CTR with the U.S. Treasury Department. While many
banks claim they’re not supposed to give you a copy of this report, you
can sometimes get an uninformed clerk to give you one (it happens more
often than not). Carry this with you to demonstrate that you legally
obtained the subject cash. In absence of this, you may even ask a bank
officer to draft a letter certifying that the amount of cash (which should
correspond to the amount on your person at the time of your departing
flight) was withdrawn from that financial institution. For your return
flight where the amounts are different, if you’re playing under your real
name, have no problem with CTRs, ratings, and other forms of related
disclosure, ask your host for a letter indicating the dates you played and
your win/loss. Note: If you’ve been hiding chips, it’s best not to cash in
all of your chips, so the amount of cash you’re carrying corresponds with
your documentation.
Unfortunately, if you’re playing under an alias, it weakens your
position. Carrying IDs under aliases will make authorities suspicious,
should they find them. It may help to have your attorney include in the
letter something to this effect, referencing the aliases used, so it’s on
record. What you’re trying to demonstrate here is that you’re not looking
to hide anything from the government, but wish to maintain your
privacy in respect to the casinos, while engaging in perfectly legal
activities. Sorry, I have nothing better, but if you’re using an alias and
carrying cash, you’re skating on thin ice!
Someone suggested this … carry a Bible, pictures of your mother,
grandmother, kids, dog and/or cat. If you’re pulled in as suspicious, you
want to present yourself as “the boy (or girl) next door,” as opposed to
some slickster. Who ever said gamblers weren’t religious?
Also, I don’t recommend you attempt to skirt the CTR issue. There
are two things in life that I’m afraid of: sewer rats and the IRS! If you try
to play with the IRS and get caught, in all likelihood, your life will be
ruined. There are legal ways to work the system, which you should
research.
I don’t know how the above holds up legally, but my thought is, if
you’re detained and questioned by local cops who have any inclination
to try skimming some cash, these precautions may make them think
twice about pulling anything.
24
Blackjack Outside the U.S.

Casinos dealing blackjack can be found in many countries around the

globe. Blackjack opportunities do exist around the world, but a player
needs to do additional homework to identify potentially profitable
situations. Also, the games can be a bit different from those found in the
U.S., based on several variables, which can be both good and bad.
Different Rules
The most common rule you will find in play outside the USA is the
“no-hole-card” rule. This is where the dealer does not take a second card
(hole card) until all players have played their hands. In many places,
there’s an additional spin on this rule, where after a double down or
split, when the dealer’s second card makes a blackjack, the player loses
both the initial wager and the amount put up for the double down or
split. When playing with this rule, you need to adjust your basic strategy
as follows:
1. 11 vs. T Hit instead of Double
2. 11 vs. A Hit instead of Double
3. A,A vs. A Hit instead of Split
4. 8,8 vs. T Hit instead of Split
5. 8,8 vs. A Hit instead of Split
Bet Spreads, Penetration, and Heat
Players can get away with higher bet spreads in many countries
outside the U.S. If you possess a strong bankroll, you can increase your
edge by spreading your bets accordingly. While a typical game found in
casinos throughout Europe is a 6-decker with less than desirable rules,
such a bet spread may overcome this type of game.
Penetration can vary widely, just as it does within the U.S. casinos. As
always, this factor should be the key to determining whether a game is
worth playing.
While it’s difficult to gauge the extent of heat in casinos abroad, it’s
evident in many places that American players at a blackjack table arouse
suspicions, especially if they happen to be winning big. Such casinos
immediately label American players as card counters on sight. It’s just a
reputation!
Finding Good Games
You may at some point come across a game with great rules. This,
along with other variables such as penetration and the ability to use a
large bet spread, can provide a player with a super opportunity. You
won’t have to worry about word getting out about such a game and
dozens of players burning it out in a matter of days. While this happens
often enough in the U.S., abroad one can enjoy the luxury of having
found a hidden treasure and playing it without worrying about the
masses.
Identification and Barring
In the U.S. you can legally get rated under an alias. When playing in a
casino abroad, you usually need to show a passport as identification.
While people are known to obtain passports under false names, it’s a
crime that you don’t want to get caught committing in a foreign country.
With that in mind, you should check in under your real name using your
real passport. Another consideration is that in the event a foreign casino
becomes suspicious of you, it might check with some U.S. casinos and
give them this real name. If you’ve been playing in the U.S. under an
alias, those U.S. casinos won’t have a record of you, but may be able to
identify a photo of you. Get creative, but stay within legal boundaries.
Safety
Exercise care when carrying large sums of money and traveling
abroad. It’s advisable to carry most in travelers’ checks, while keeping
hard currencies secured on your person at all times, using a money belt
or other discreet method. Be aware of the exchange rates when
converting your U.S. dollars into the local currency.
While many travelers make use of hotel safes, it’s recommended to
exercise caution, especially if you’re staying at a smaller hotel. In this
case, it may be more prudent to keep the money on you, rather than in a
hotel safe.
Electronic Pen-Pals
Some players worldwide participate regularly in some of the
blackjack websites and communicate with one another. Such players
have reciprocally hosted one another during visits to their respective
countries. Having a local player guiding you around in a foreign country
is an invaluable asset.
Currency Laws
Be aware of the various regulations with respect to bringing
currencies into or out of the country. Failure to follow the proper
procedures can result in having all your money confiscated, in addition
to your being detained.
Foreign Currency Exchange (“FX”) 101
For the examples in this chapter, we will use U.S. dollars and the euro
(€).
General Info
If you check a local financial newspaper listing exchange rates, you
might see the euro trading at .9059, which is the amount in euro you’d
receive for one U.S. dollar. Alongside, you might also see a rate quoted as
1.10387, indicating that you’d receive US$1.10 for one euro. Translated to
our purposes:
SCENARIO “A”—You have US$100,000 and purchase euro at a rate of
.9059. You arrive at your European destination with €90,590.
After a break-even play, you return home with €90,950 and you
purchase US$ at a rate of 1.10387 and receive US$100,000 in exchange.
In reality, the above scenario is not common, since the rates quoted
are considered just a “quote.” The banks adjust these rates in a manner
that enables them to make a profit from both sides of the transaction (the
purchase and the sale).
Using the “for-information-purposes-only” rate in the above example,
a more realistic translation would be as follows:
SCENARIO “B”—You have US$100,000 and purchase Euro at a rate of
.8950 (1.117). You arrive at your European destination with €89,500.
 After a break-even play, you return home with €89,500 and you
purchase US$ at a rate of 1.099 (.9100) and receive US$98,360.50 in
exchange.
You played a break-even game, but lost US$1,639.50 due to the cost of
exchanging currency.
Based on the above transactions, here is how the exchange rate chart
would appear:
Quote: .9059 1.10387
Buy: .8950 1.117
Sell: .9100 1.099
Note: In the event only currencies are listed in one of these columns,
you can determine the flipside by dividing 1 by the quoted rate (e.g.,
1/.9059 = 1.10387; or 1/1.10387 = .9059).
Method to Minimize Loss on Currency Exchange
Best Method—Some casinos provide a nice service, where you wire
US$ to their account held in their local bank. They establish a rate for
your buy-in, which is locked in. If you play a break-even game, your
exchange transactions would resemble Scenario “A” above. In my past
trips, this service was extended to me without any commission.
If you end your play with a win, your winnings are converted at a
spot rate (the rate at the moment the bank wires the funds back to your
U.S. account). This can work to your advantage or disadvantage (usually
the latter), depending on the strength of the currency involved at that
time.
When you’re receiving reimbursement for airfare, they use a spot rate
to convert the amount you give the receipt (the US$ amount) and convert
it to a euro amount. When funds are wired back to you, they will be once
again converted back to US$ the day they are wired to your account back
home. You’ll want to ensure the rate used is the same in both of these
steps and that it’s done when you settle.
One hint: When you settle up your account, do so on a banking day
(not a Saturday or Sunday), and do it first thing in the morning. That
way you can have them confirm the rate used for all these purposes and
all the conversions will be performed that day.
25
Basics of Zone Tracking

There may be just a handful of players truly skilled enough to achieve

long-term success in the art of “zone tracking.” Also known as “shuffle
tracking,” while many take a crack at it, most are unsuccessful. The
easiest aspect of zone tracking is the ability to make an error. There are
simply too many ways a player can miscalculate. Errors are far more
common and far more costly than those related to straight card-counting.
If I ran a casino, I would implement a simple enough shuffle where the
wannabe zone trackers would come out of the woodwork. These are the
players from whom the casino will make the most money when they
make mistakes that give the casino an even bigger advantage than it
already possesses. The players who can flawlessly track a shuffle will be
few and far between, and not nearly enough to raise a concern. The
sharper casinos are beginning to realize this and are looking to speed
things up to improve their bottom line.
In early 2002, I was remotely involved with a group, co-led by an
individual who, at that time, I considered the most brilliant zone tracker
I’d encountered. This is someone who put forth the highest level of
intensity, dedication, and sacrifice to achieve an inordinate level of
excellence. Due to my limited availability, I wasn’t privy to the actual
methods used by this master, except for one small refinement in the
method I was using to track a specific shuffle. I’m grateful for this little
insight, and out of respect I won’t pass on what I learned from this
individual. The secrets are kept well guarded.
I parted company with this group and continued to work on fine-
tuning my zone-tracking methods. A couple of months later, I had the
good fortune of meeting up with another gifted individual in the
unlikeliest place. This person not only took the skills of zone tracking,
along with other advanced methods, to levels beyond, but also proved to
be quite generous with sharing knowledge. I was amazed at the surgical
approach used to analyze various casino shuffle procedures, including
the inner workings of several commercial shuffle machines. While this
individual was quite open and sharing with the methods used, I was
asked not to write about these details. I will honor my promise.
The methods presented here are very basic. Although they’ve already
been discussed in some of the blackjack literature, the intent is to present
them in a most easy-to-learn manner.
The mathematics of card counting assumes a random shuffle process
that provides a thorough mixing of all the cards. However, expert studies
show that random shuffles in casinos today are the exception rather than
the rule. It would take too much time to shuffle so precisely. The less
time a casino spends on the shuffle, the more it spends time dealing,
resulting in more profit. Since few players can take advantage of a non-
random shuffle, it makes sense for the casinos to spend as little time as
possible doing this, regardless of how poorly the cards are mixed.
When “slugs” of cards are less than thoroughly distributed due to a
non-random shuffle, an astute tracker can identify the positions in the
shoe where the slugs reside. If a “segment” is rich in high cards, the
tracker cuts this segment into play and bets with an advantage off the
top. On the other hand, if a segment has excess low cards, the tracker
cuts this segment out of play.
The most important skill required to succeed in zone tracking is
visually following the cards being tracked. This means estimating the
size of a segment in a discard tray, the size of the segment as grabbed by
the dealer while performing the shuffle, and the size of the final segment
where your targeted group of cards ends up after the shuffle.
Step-by-Step Training Method to Develop the Skills
In this section, I provide you with some basics on the skill of zone
tracking. I recommend that you use the information here strictly as a
foundation for further training before attempting to go out in the casinos
to try your hand at it. Extensive research has been performed on the
topic, some with advanced mathematical formulas. The methods
presented here are an attempt to simplify the process, using one simple
shuffle. You’re provided with enough material to determine whether or
not to continue with further study. This chapter is far from being a
complete course, but it’s an excellent primer. Sources for additional
training will be presented at the conclusion of this chapter.
Note: When referring to different counts in the exercises throughout
the chapter, we’ll be using the Hi-Lo counting system. We will further
work under the assumption that the penetration level in the 6-deck game
being played is 1½ decks cut off.
Identifying Segment Sizes
If you’ve been employing a balanced card-counting system with true-
count conversion, you should be able to determine segment sizes by
looking at a stack in the discard tray. The following drills will enhance
your skills:
Drill Number One
1. Training for a 6-deck shoe game, take 6 decks of casino-quality
cards and number them from 1 to 312 on the face of each card.
2. Place the stack in order in a 6-deck discard tray.
3. Determine the midway point in the stack and place a cut-card in
that spot. Take a look at the face of the card above the cut-card and see
what number it shows. If you cut to card number 156, congratulations!
Repeat this exercise until you’re consistently within three cards. Note:
When performing this exercise, try to take the stack of cards out of the
discard tray, holding it on the table in the manner a dealer would when
presenting it to a player to cut. This works best if you’re training with a
partner and you can take turns with this exercise.
4. Determine a point that you believe is one deck from the bottom up
and place a cut-card in that spot. Take a look at the face of the card above
the cut-card and see what number it shows. You want to be consistently
within three cards of number 52.
5. Continue with steps 3 and 4, going for half-deck cuts, 1½-deck cuts,
and 2-deck cuts.
Drill Number Two
1. Using the same “numbered-order” stack from drill number one in a
6-deck discard tray, randomly grab a pile of cards from the stack. Place
the pile grabbed on the table and determine its approximate size. For
example: If you think it resembles the size of a 2-deck pile, indicate
whether it’s over or under 2 decks and by how many cards.
2. Repeat steps 1, making certain to mix up the random size of your
“picks.”
Learning Cut-Off Tracking
In this step, you apply a simple shuffle as an introduction to Cut-Off
Tracking.
Drill Number Three
1. Training for a 6-deck shoe game, take 6 decks of casino-quality
cards and count off 78 cards. This pile will represent 1½ decks of
“cutoffs,” which we will attempt to follow through a simple shuffle
routine.
2. Take the remaining 4½ decks and place them in your discard tray.
3. Using a black marker, color one side of the edges only of the pile of
78 cards.
4. Place this colored pile on top of the cards already situated in the
discard tray, with the colored edges facing you (see Illustration 1).

5. Break the 6-deck stack into two equal 3-deck piles. Let’s call the pile
on the right “Pile A,” which will contain the cards with the colored edge,
representing the 1½ deck cutoffs. The other pile will be “Pile B” (see
Illustration 2).
 6. Grab 39 cards (¾ deck) from Pile A, then grab the same amount
from Pile B, “riffle” them together, then place the riffled cards in a
prominent spot between the two original piles, thus creating a third pile,
which we will call the “final stack” (see Illustration 3).

7. Repeat Step 6 three more times so all the cards have been shuffled
to complete the final stack (see Illustration 4).

Result—The bottom half of the 6-deck final stack contains the entire
1½ deck of cutoffs, as represented by the marked edges.
Information You Will Possess—If you’ve maintained a running count
throughout the shoe, you’ll know the value of the cutoffs as well. For
example, if at the end of the shoe, your running count is +9, then you
know the 1½ decks of cutoffs have a value of -9.
How to Use this Information—With knowledge that the bottom half of
the final stack contains extra high cards, by placing the cut-card at the
midway point of the stack, you’ll bring this preferable 3-deck segment to
the top. A simple method to play through this 3-deck segment is to
determine your adjusted running count at the start of the shoe based on
your information. Here’s a procedure for doing so:
Look at the 6 decks in terms of four segments of 1½-decks each.
One segment contains the cutoffs with a known value of -9.
This known segment, as a result of the shuffle, was merged with a
second segment of unknown value.
Since the total value of all three unknown segments is +9, we can
make a rough estimation and spread this +9 equally among the three
segments, providing us with an estimated value of +3 per segment.
If we’re using this +3 estimate as the value for the segment merged
with the cutoffs (-9), we add +3 to -9, resulting in -6. Therefore we can
adjust our running count at the start of the shoe to +6, betting and
playing accordingly throughout the three decks.
Recap on Estimating the Value of the Unknown Segment Being Merged
with a Known Tracked Segment—Determine the size of the segment you’re
tracking (1½ deck). Then figure out the total value of all unknown
segments (+9). Now determine what portion of all the unknown
segments is being merged with the segment you are tracking (1½ out of
4½ decks or one-third). Divide the count of all the unknown segments by
the portion of that total being merged (9/3 = 3). Add the result of Step 4
to the count of your known segment and use this to determine the count
to use at the start of the shoe (-9) + (+3) = -6. Since the segment contains a
value of -6, you start play with a count of +6.
Learning Segment Location
In this step, you will use the same shuffle as in Step 2 to begin with a
simple form of segment location.
Drill Number Four
1. Using the same 6 decks of cards from drill number three, take the
78 cards with the edges marked and break them into two equal piles of
39 cards each.
2. From the remaining 4½ decks, count off 78 cards and place them in
the shoe. These non-colored cards will represent the cutoffs.
3. Take one pile of 39 cards with the colored edges facing you and
place them in the discard tray. This pile will represent the first ¾-deck
dealt from the previous shoe. This segment is called the “bottoms,”
which is what we’re tracking in this drill.
4. Place the remaining pile of non-colored cards (3 decks) on top of
the 39 colored cards in the discard tray.
5. Take the remaining pile of 39 cards with the colored edges facing
away from you and place them on top of the stack in the discard tray.
6. Take the 1½ decks of cutoffs from the shoe and place these on top
of the stack in the discard tray. Illustration 5 shows what the pre-shuffle
stack will look like.

7. Break the 6-deck stack into two equal 3-deck piles. “Pile A” on the
left, from the player’s view, will contain the cards with the colored edge,
representing the ¾-deck bottoms. The other pile will be “Pile B” (see
Illustration 6).

8. Grab 39 cards (¾-deck) from Pile A, then grab the same amount
from Pile B, riffle them together, and place the riffled cards in a
prominent spot between the two piles, creating your final stack.
9. Repeat Step 8 three more times, so all the cards have been shuffled
to complete the final stack (see Illustration 7).

Result—The 1½-deck segment located on the top of the post-shuffle

file contains all the bottoms, as represented by the marked edges.
Information You Will Possess—If you’ve maintained a running count of
the first ¾-deck, you’ll know the value of 50% of the cards within the top
1½-deck segment. Let’s assume your running count for the ¾-deck is +7.
How to Use this Information—With knowledge that the top 1½-deck
segment of the final stack contains extra low cards, by placing the cut-
card at the 1½-deck point from the top of the stack, you bring this non-
preferable 1½-deck segment to the very bottom, thus cutting the segment
with the extra low cards out of play. A simple method to play through
the shoe is to determine your adjusted running count at the start of the
shoe based on your information. Here is a procedure to do so:
Look at the 6 decks in terms of 8 segments of ¾-decks each.
One segment contains the bottom ¾-deck with a known value of +7,
which means the remaining 7 segments contain a total value of -7.
Since your known segment was merged with a second segment of
unknown value, you can divide the value of the total unknown segments
(-7) by the number of unknown segments (7), resulting in -1.
If we use this -1 estimate as a value for the segment merged with the
bottoms (+7), we add -1 to +7 and adjust our running count at the start of
the shoe to +6 (since we are cutting these cards out of play), betting and
playing accordingly throughout the shoe.
Note: As you progress in your training, you’ll be exposed to methods
and formulas much stronger than this simplified method. The method
presented here is a good starting point and is workable.
Recap on Estimating the Value of the Unknown Segment Being Merged
with a Known Tracked Segment—Determine the size of the segment you are
tracking (¾ deck). Now determine the number of unknown segments (7).
Now determine the total count of all unknown segments, which is the
offset to that of your known segment count (-7). Divide the count of all
the unknown segments by the total number of unknown segments (-7/7
= -1). Add this result to the count of your known segment, using this
count at the start of the shoe (+7 + (-1) = +6).
Let’s take a scenario where the bottoms you’re tracking contain extra
high cards.
Information You’ll Possess—Let’s assume your running count for the ¾-
deck is -7.
How to Use this Information—With knowledge that the top 1½-deck
segment of the final stack contains extra high cards, by placing the cut-
card at the 1-deck point (usually the minimum number of cards you’ll be
permitted to cut) from the bottom of the stack, you will bring that one
deck of unknown cards to the top of the stack. Your preferable 1½-deck
segment containing the bottoms will be located immediately following
that one-deck of unknown cards. There are a few ways you can
strategically approach this.
One simple method is to play through the first deck betting the
minimum, then when one deck has been played, you’ll have reached
your segment containing the extra high cards. Using the above procedure
for determining the value of a segment, you’d play through this 1½-deck
segment starting with a running count of +6, betting and playing
accordingly.
Drill Number Five
1. Using the same 6 decks of cards from drill number three, take the
78 cards with the edges marked and break them into two equal piles of
39 cards each.
 2. From the remaining 4½-decks, count off 78 cards, and place those
cards in the shoe. These non-colored cards will represent the cutoffs.
3. Take one pile of 39 cards with the colored edges facing away from
you and place them in the discard tray.
4. Place the remaining pile of non-colored cards (3 decks) on top of
the first 39 cards in the discard tray.
5. Take the remaining pile of 39 cards with the colored edges facing
you, and place them on top of the stack in the discard tray. This pile will
represent the last ¾-deck dealt from the previous shoe. This segment is
called the “tops,” which is what we’re tracking in this drill.
6. Take the 1½ decks of cutoffs from the shoe, and break them into
two equal piles of 39 cards.
7. Take one of the ¾-deck cutoff piles and “plug” it at least one deck
down from the top of the stack in the discard tray (see Illustration 8).
Note: We’re using a different method of cutoff placement here called
“cutoff plugging,” where in the previous drills we used a method call
“cutoff topping.”

8. Take the remaining ¾-deck cutoff pile and “plug” it at least one
deck up from the bottom of the stack in the discard tray (see Illustration
9).
 9. Illustration 10 shows what the pre-shuffle stack will look like in the
discard tray.

10. Break the 6-deck stack into two equal 3-deck piles. “Pile A” on the
right, from the player’s view, will contain the cards with the colored
edge, representing the ¾-deck tops. The other pile will be “Pile B” (see
Illustration 11).

11. Grab 39 cards (¾-deck) from Pile A, then grab the same amount
from Pile B, riffle them together, then place the riffled cards in a
prominent spot between the two piles, creating your final stack.
 12. Repeat Step 11, so all the cards have been shuffled three more
times and the final stack is complete (see Illustration 12).

Result—The 1½-deck segment located on the bottom of the post-

shuffle stack contains all the tops, as represented by the marked edges.
Note: In a real-world environment, the above scenario won’t be as
exact as presented. You’ll need to estimate when the first round of the
tops will be dealt in relation to the appearance of the cut-card,
notwithstanding how many more cards are dealt to complete the round
as the cut-card appears.
Information You’ll Possess—If you’ve maintained a running count of
the last ¾-deck dealt, you’ll know the value of 50% of the cards within
the bottom 1½-deck segment. Let’s assume your running count for the ¾-
deck is -7.
How to Use this Information—With knowledge that the bottom 1½-deck
segment of the final stack contains extra high cards, by placing the cut-
card at the 1½-deck point from the bottom of the stack, you’ll bring this
preferable 1½-deck segment to the top, thus cutting the segment with
extra high cards immediately into play. A simple method to play through
this 1½-deck segment is to determine your adjusted running count for
this segment in the manner described in drill number four.
Learning Multi-Segment Location
In this step, you’ll see the same shuffle as in the previous steps with a
variation of the plugging method, while tracking more than one segment
during the shuffle.
Drill Number Six
Drill Number Six
1. Using the same 6 decks of cards from drill number three, take the
78 cards with the edges marked and break them into two equal piles of
39 cards each.
2. From the remaining 4½-decks, count off 78 cards and place those
cards in the shoe. These non-colored cards will represent the cutoffs.
3. Take one pile of 39 cards with the colored edges facing you and
place them in the discard tray. This segment of bottoms is one of the
segments we are tracking in this drill.
4. Place the remaining pile of non-colored cards (3 decks) on top of
the 39 colored cards in the discard tray.
5. Take the remaining pile of 39 cards with the colored edges facing
you and place them on top of the stack in the discard tray. This segment
of tops is the other segment we’re tracking in this drill.
6. Take the 1½-decks of cutoffs from the shoe and plug them in
entirety directly in the middle of the stack in the discard tray (see
Illustration 13).

7. Illustration 14 shows what the pre-shuffle stack will look like.

 8. Break the 6-deck stack into two equal 3-deck piles. “Pile A” on the
left, from the player’s view, will contain the cards with the colored edge,
representing the ¾-deck bottoms. “Pile B” on the right will contain cards
with the colored edge representing the ¾-deck tops (see Illustration 15).

9. Grab 39 cards (¾-deck) from Pile A, then grab the same amount
from Pile B, riffle them together, and place them in a prominent spot
between the two piles, creating your final stack.
10. Repeat Step 9 three more times, so all cards have been shuffled
and the final stack is complete (see Illustration 16).
 Result—The 1½-deck segment located on the top of the post-shuffle
stack contains all the bottoms, as represented by the marked edges, while
the 1½-deck segment located on the bottom of the post-shuffle stack
contains all the tops, as represented by the marked edges.
Information You’ll Possess—If you’ve maintained a running count of
the first ¾-deck dealt, you’ll know the value of 50% of the cards within
the top 1½-deck segment and if you’ve maintained a running count of
the last ¾-deck dealt, you’ll know the value of 50% of the cards within
the bottom 1½-deck segment. Hold on a minute! Take a look at
Illustrations 13 and 14. Notice how in Illustration 13 the entire 1½ decks
of cutoffs are plugged entirely dead center? Now look at Illustration 15
again, where the stack is split into two equal piles. Half of the cutoffs are
on the top of the pile opposite the tops and the other half is on the
bottom of the pile opposite the bottoms. Considering this, the top 1½-
deck segment of the post-shuffle stack will contain the ¾-deck of the
bottoms, merged with a ¾-deck segment, which is actually 50% of the
cutoffs. The bottom 1½-deck segment of the post-shuffle stack will
contain the ¾-deck of the tops, merged with a ¾-deck segment, which is
the other 50% of the cutoffs.
Let’s say that the bottom ¾-deck segment has a value of -8, as does
the top ¾-deck segment. Consider an end-of-shoe running count of +10,
which gives your cutoffs a value of -10. Fifty percent of -10 is -5. Adding
-5 to each of the top and the bottom ¾-deck segments respectively gives
you a count of -13 for each of those 1½-deck segments. As a result, you
know the value of 50% of the entire post shuffle stack. This provides you
with the ability to perform what is called “Best-Half Tracking.”
Summary
The intent of this chapter was to provide a basic foundation for the
reader wanting to learn how to track shuffle zones. Many players have
studied and applied this skill for many years. Such practitioners reading
this chapter would shake their heads in unison, thinking, “This is only
the tip of the iceberg.” They’re correct. The top zone trackers I’ve had the
privilege to know all put in years of study and live play to achieve a level
of excellence. I feel it’s important to acknowledge this and advise you not
to risk money attempting to track shuffle zones in live casino play
without more training than what’s presented here.
For the purpose of this chapter, we used one simple shuffle. When
identifying a shuffle, one of the first things you do is map it on paper to
determine and verify that it can tracked. We didn’t cover this aspect, but
the resources listed below provide the necessary details on mapping
shuffles.
In the examples, I used scenarios given a perfect world. You’ll find,
more often than not, a dealer who varies the size of the picks. You’ll need
to know how to adjust for it. In the training exercises, we assume the cut-
card is exactly at the 1½-deck point. You’ll need to adjust for that. These
are just some of the many considerations you need to address if you wish
to continue studying zone-tracking.
The next recommended step in training for zone tracking is to read
Shuffle Tracking for Beginners by George C. An easy-to-follow book, this is
a nice progression from what you read in this chapter.
Arnold Snyder’s Blackbelt in Blackjack also has a chapter devoted to
shuffle tracking.
For the real nuts-and-bolts on the subject, study The Shuffle Tracker’s
Cookbook, by Arnold Snyder and published by Huntington Press, which
combines the Shuffle Tracking Series that appeared in Snyder’s Blackjack
Forum (Fall ‘94, Winter ‘94, and Spring ‘95 issues, respectively).
If you still want more after reading all the above, go onto the Internet
and locate The Blackjack Shuffle Tracking Treatise, (1990, 1991) by Michael
R. Hall. At the time of this writing, it’s available for viewing at:
bjmath.com.
A good software product to help with your study is CVShuffle.
CVShuffle helps you recreate a casino shuffle and identify points within
that you may find suitable to track. It also has a practice module to help
hone your skills.
26
Location Play

Shuffles vary not only from casino to casino, but also from dealer to
dealer within the same casino. While observing different types of
shuffles, an astute player can identify methods to locate specific cards
after the shuffle. Some of the different types of location play are: ace
location, ace-ten combination, string-sequence (several cards in order)
location, and zone location. You have to identify certain aspects of the
shuffle routine in order to analyze the potential to apply such advantage-
play techniques. Shuffles that may be effective for zone tracking might
not be effective for location play. For the purpose of this chapter, we
focus on the most common form of location play, ace location. When
dealt an ace as your first card playing a 6-deck game, you have a 50.5%
advantage. Having the knowledge “in advance” that your first card will
be an ace gives you the opportunity to place a large bet with this big
edge.
Introductory Exercise
Try this exercise using a complete deck of cards.
Step 1. Place the following four cards in this order on a table from left
to right: 6♦, 5♥, 4♣, A♠.
Step 2. Pick up the cards from the player’s view, left to right
(Illustration 1), as most casino dealers would from their view. Next, place
those cards intact in a random spot within the deck of cards (Illustration
2).
 Step 3. From the top of the deck, flip through the cards one at a time,
until you arrive at the 6♦. This is your first “key card.” Flip the next three
cards, placing them on the table in order from right to left of your first
key card (Note: From the player’s view, this is how the cards will appear
as dealt). Notice, from right to left, your three key cards followed by your
“target card.” Illustration 3 shows your first key card, the 6♦, followed by
your second and third key cards, the 5♥ and 4♣, respectively. Finally,
after all three key cards, will be your target card, the A♠.

In this instance, if a round ended with the 4♣ dealt, you’d know that
the first card dealt in the next round would be the A♠. You’d want to
place a large bet on your hand, knowing the ace is your first card.
Wait a minute—we didn’t shuffle the cards!
This is a good time to talk about riffling. In a perfect process, cards
riffled from two equal piles would interleaf one from each pile. This
would be a “fine riffle.” Considering this, if you took the above scenario,
you would have one unknown card between each of your three key cards
in front of the ace. Therefore, if the 4♣ is the last card dealt in a round,
you know that in the next round the first card dealt will be an unknown
card, with the ace immediately following as the second card dealt,
considering the unknown card interleaving in the shuffle. To direct that
ace into your hand, you will play two spots, placing a large bet on your
second spot where the ace should be dealt. You also need to factor in
variations in the shuffle process, which lead to more than just one card
separating your key cards.
Note: The consistency of the fineness of a riffle is highly dealer
dependent. While a perfect riffle results in a one-card separation of key
cards, you find plenty of variations from this result. This is discussed
later in this chapter.
In the above example, we used a single deck of cards just to
demonstrate the concept of ace location. Since the shuffle process in a
single-deck game is normally thorough, we focus our attention on multi-
deck (four or more) games for ace location.
The Learning Process
A necessary skill for this method of location play is card
memorization. The top memory systems are based on the concept of
association. Applying this concept to a deck of cards, you would create a
name, using phonetics, for each card in the deck. You can go into any
bookstore and find a book on memory techniques, such as Learn to
Remember by Dominic O’Brien, The Memory Book by Harry Lorayne, and
Mega Memory, an audio-cassette program by Kevin Trudeau.
My good friend Sal Piacente is one of the most talented card-memory
experts out there. He and I were at the Memoriad Competition a couple
of years ago, where Sal broke the world record, previously held by
Dominic O’Brien, for memorizing the sequence of a shuffled deck of
cards. (Sal’s record was topped, 15 minutes later by another participant.)
Following is the system Sal uses for card memorization. Let’s start with a
chart of numbers and corresponding phonetic sounds:
 This method uses the phonetic alphabet and the first letter of the suit.
Let’s look at the 2♣. The first letter of the suit is C (club). The phonetic
sound for 2 is N. Taking C and N, we can develop a word such as CaN.
For the 6♦, we can use D and SH and come up with DiSH. Now the trick
is to use these two words and create a picture or story (use your
imagination; the more ridiculous the better) to link the words together. In
this example, you can think of a can (2♣) sitting on a dish (6♦).
Since the aces are our target cards, we won’t need to include them.
But we can’t forget about jacks, queens, and kings. For the jack, we
simply refer to the suit. Jack of spades is simply Spade. Jack of clubs is
Club. For queens and kings, we apply the first letter of the suit and add a
sound that resembles either king or queen. The queen of diamonds is
Dream. The king of spades is Sing. We couldn’t find a word beginning
with the letter H for queen of hearts, so we simply used Queen. Here’s
the list of words Sal uses:
 Here’s an imaginative visual to create for a sequence of cards:
The HOG (7♥) and the HEN (2♥) were in the CAR (4♣).
Drill Number One
Step 1. Take 6 decks of cards in a shoe and deal yourself three spots,
along with the dealer’s hand.
Step 2. Pick up the cards after all spots are played and settled, using
the standard casino pick-up order: Remember that a busted hand is
picked up and placed in the discard tray immediately following that
result. After all spots are played and settled, the players’ cards are picked
up from (the players’) left to right in order. As a player’s hand is picked
up, the first card dealt to that player ends up on top, with the second
card dealt under that, and each subsequent hit card underneath in order.
In Illustration 4, the player’s first two cards are the 6♦ and 8♦,
respectively, with the first hit card A♣ and the final hit card 5♥. As the
dealer picks up each player’s hand, the cards from the player on the far
left (third base) end up on top. Then the dealer’s cards are picked up and
placed on top of the players’ cards. Place the entire stack of cards used in
this round in the discard tray. Note: You need to be aware of variations
on this proceedure; visit casinos you plan to play in to observe variations
in the way cards are picked up after a round.
 Step 3. Continue dealing, until an ace is dealt.
Step 4. If the ace is dealt in a spot where, as a result of the standard
casino pick-up order, you can observe the three cards on top of that ace,
memorize those three cards from top to bottom, using your card-
memorization technique. These will be your three key cards (see
Illustration 5).

Step 5. After placing the cards in Step 4 on top of the cards already in
the discard tray, take the remaining cards from the shoe and place them
on top, resulting in the entire 6 decks residing in the discard tray.
Step 6. Without shuffling, place the 6 decks, intact, back in the shoe
and start dealing yourself three spots.
Step 7. As you play, look for your first key card, watching to see if the
second and third key cards follow, with the ace target card appearing
right after the third key card (see Illustration 6). Note: Since you’re
playing a 6-deck game, you’ll encounter times where your first key card
may appear, but the second key will not. This is called a “false positive.”
This occurs, because in a 6-deck game, you have six of each card within
the decks. You may even encounter times where your first key card will
appear along with your second key card, but not the third. This too can
be a false positive. Most practitioners agree it’s most accurate to “triple
key.”

Step 8. Repeat this drill several times.

Note: This is strictly a drill; it doesn’t take the shuffle into
consideration. Its purpose, along with drill number two below, is to
familiarize the player with the casino dealing and pick-up procedures,
along with the memorization techniques applied.
Drill Number Two
Step 1. Repeat Steps 1–4 in drill number one. Let’s refer to the
sequence of three key cards and ace target as “Sequence A.”
Step 2. After you place your first set of key cards and ace in the
discard tray, continue dealing three spots until a second ace is dealt.
Step 3. Memorize this second sequence of three key cards and after
picking up the cards from that round, place them in the discard tray.
Let’s call these cards “Sequence B.” You’re now training yourself to
memorize two sequences to locate two aces.
Step 4. Take the remaining cards from the shoe and place them on top
of the cards already in the discard tray.
Step 5. Without shuffling, place the 6 decks back in the shoe and start
dealing three spots.
Step 6. In this instance, Sequence B will be dealt first. As you’re
playing, look for the first key card of Sequence B, then see if the second
and third key cards follow.
Step 7. Continue dealing to yourself, while looking for the first key
card of Sequence A. Then see if the second and third key cards follow.
Step 8. Repeat this drill several times.
Drill Number Three
This drill introduces the shuffling effect into our location play.
Step 1. Repeat Steps 1–4 in drill number one.
Step 2. Illustration 7 shows a sample layout. Leave the cards face up
on the table. Then take three additional cards from the shoe and place
one of these cards following each of the three key cards (Illustration 8).
These represent unknown cards resulting from the single-riffle effect of a
shuffle.

Step 3. Using the prescribed pick-up procedure, place the cards from
Step 2 on top of those already in the discard tray.
Step 4. Take the remaining cards from the shoe and place them on top
of those already in the discard tray, resulting in the entire 6 decks
residing in the discard tray.
 Step 5. Without shuffling, place the 6 decks back in the shoe and start
dealing three spots.

Illustration 9 provides us with an ideal situation. All three key cards

have been dealt in the appropriate order, with one unknown card
separating each, as a result of a riffle. The last card dealt in the round is
the third key card! Based on this, you’d expect the first card dealt in the
next round to be an unknown, followed immediately by your ace target
card (see Illustration 10). Armed with this knowledge, you’d place a
large bet on your second hand. If you’re successful and the ace lands on
that hand, you have that big 50.5% advantage.
Step 6. Repeat this drill several times.

Keep in mind that, in the layout of the drill you just completed, the
third key card was in an ideal spot at the end of a round dealt. This won’t
always be the case. Based on how many key cards you observe in a
round, you may need to change the number of hands you play, along
with the hand on which you place your big bet in the following round.
After you’re confident with your accuracy in this drill, try to maintain
two sequences, similar to drill number two. Think you can go for three?
Maybe four?
The following chart depicts a pre-shuffle stack of 14 cards, with the
A♥ through 6♥ in order from bottom to top and 10 unknown cards on top
of these. The post-shuffle stack is the result of a one-riffle shuffle, with a
one-card separation between each known card (three key cards and
target ace).

Drill Number Four

In this drill we will adjust our strategy to accommodate a two-riffle
shuffling effect.
Step 1. Repeat Steps 1–4 in drill number one.
Illustration 11 shows a sample layout.

Step 2. Leave the cards face up on the table. Then take nine more
cards from the shoe and place three of them following each of the three
key cards (see Illustration 12). These represent unknown cards separating
each key card and the ace target card, resulting from the two-riffle effect
of a shuffle.

Step 3. Using the prescribed pick-up procedure, place the cards from
Step 2 on top of those already in the discard tray.
Step 4. Take the remaining cards from the shoe and place them on top
of those already in the discard tray, resulting in the entire 6 decks
residing in the discard tray.
Step 5. Without shuffling, place the 6 decks back in the shoe and begin
dealing three spots.
The layout of Illustration 13 shows a round where your key cards
appear. All three key cards have been dealt in the appropriate order,
with three unknown cards separating each, as a result of two riffles. Your
third key card, 4♠ appeared immediately followed by the 4♦, and finally
the 9♣, the last card dealt in the round. The 9♣ represents the second of
the three unknown cards following your third key card. Therefore, you’d
expect the first card dealt in the next round to be the third unknown
card, followed immediately by your ace target card (see Illustration 14).
With that knowledge, you’d place a large bet on your second hand.
 Step 6. Repeat this drill several times. Since there’s a three-card
separation between keys, in order to steer the ace target card to your
hand and ensure it doesn’t land in the dealer’s hand you need to more
actively adjust the number of hands you play.
A good method to test your accuracy in this drill is to stop dealing as
soon as you see your first key card. Before you flip over each subsequent
card, see how accurate you are at predicting whether each card is a key
card, an unknown card, or the ace target card. Keep a record of your hits
and misses.
Once you’re confident here, you can try for multiple sequences.
The chart below, while using different key cards, uses the concept of
the post-shuffle stack from drill number three, repeating the same shuffle
process a second time. The new post-shuffle stack is the result of a two-
riffle shuffle, with a three-card separation between each known card
(three key cards and target ace).
 How to Bet
There’s no real magic here. Always place a bet after you see all three
key cards, even if the separation of key cards with unknowns is
inconsistent. Don’t get trigger-happy; you should never bet after seeing
only two out of three key cards. Always wait for the third key to appear
before betting.
If you expect an ace as the first card dealt out of a 6-deck shoe—
whether you make a maximum bet on one spot, or each of two or three
spots—a successful landing will give you a huge advantage. In all of
these cases, you should place the maximum bet that your bankroll
permits on each spot. If your bankroll permits you to go up to the table
maximum, put those chips out there!
Fine Points
Knowing What Segments Can Be Sequenced
It’s important to perform some advance scouting of specific dealers,
in addition to house shuffle procedures. One crucial element you need to
look for is where the dealer places the cutoffs prior to performing the
actual shuffle. If you’re aware of specific or approximate locations where
the cutoffs are placed, you can avoid going for sequences in those areas.
Specifically, you want to be aware of situations where the dealer plugs
the cutoffs. After scouting a dealer, you’ll be able to identify the
segments that won’t be intermingled with plugs. Those are the segments
in which you’ll look for potential sequences.

Let’s say the dealer plugs the entire segment of cutoffs right in the
middle of the cards in the discard tray (see Illustration 15). You’ll know
not to waste your energy looking for sequences in the approximate area
that may break up as a result of such a plug. You may come across a
dealer who “triple plugs” the cutoffs, with a third placed one deck below
the top, a third in the middle, and a third placed one deck above the
bottom (see Illustration 16). In this case, the simplest method to start
looking for a sequence would be to do so within the first deck dealt
and/or the last deck dealt. These segments would likely not be affected
by plugs.

After taking the effect of cutoffs into consideration, you need to be

aware of break points, when the dealer separates the pre-shuffle stack
into two or more piles. Here you want to identify areas that ensure that
an established sequence will not be disturbed by a “pile break.”
Conditions of Cards
An important factor is the consistency of the interleaving of cards. A
finer riffle is the result of cards just put into play. Therefore, a good time
to attempt location play is when new decks are being cracked open. If
you’re playing with cards that have been in play for an extended period
of time, you should be alert for inconsistencies in the number of
unknown cards that may land between your individual key cards and
the ace target card. By scouting a game prior to actual play, you can
notice any inconsistencies in the riffling effects in the shuffle. Most
casinos change the decks in their shoe games once daily. If you find out
the time of day this change occurs, you can maximize your potential.
Directing a Card
Let’s take a situation where you’re playing a game when one
unknown card separates your key cards and ace target card. You’re
playing two spots and the second card dealt to your first spot is your first
key card. This means that the next card dealt (second card to your second
spot) should be an unknown card, followed by your second key card
being dealt as the dealer’s hole card. If you take a hit on your first hand,
the card dealt will be an unknown card. You then can expect the next
card to be your third key card. If you have a situation where the dealer is
showing a ten upcard, and your second key card (the dealer’s hole card)
is a 6, if your third key is a ten or other card that will bust the dealer, you
can direct that bust card to the dealer by not taking any further hit cards.
This is just one of many examples of how you can direct cards to the
dealer, as well as keep specific cards away from the dealer. If you’re
playing with one or more partners at the table, this helps facilitate
playing additional spots to further ensure a target ace card is directed
away from the dealer.
European No-Hole-Card
One of the significant differences of blackjack games offered in
European casinos is that the dealer does not take a hole card. The players
each receive two cards, while the dealer takes only one card dealt face-
up. The dealer doesn’t give himself the second card until all the players
complete the play of their respective hands. This can provide a location
player with additional possibilities for identifying a card about to be
dealt and determining whether or not it can help or hurt the dealer’s
hand.
 Let’s take a situation where you’re playing three spots, with large bets
on the first two and a small bet on the third. The dealer is showing a ten
and your third hand is a total of 14. Your basic strategy play would be to
take a hit card.
However, let’s assume your two of three key cards appeared, along
with an unknown card following the second key. If your third key card is
a 6, which likely is going to appear next, you would sacrifice taking the
card, standing on your 14 instead. In doing so, you direct the 6 into the
dealer’s hand, for a two-card total of 16, thereby increasing the chance of
the dealer busting. When incorporating this form of strategy, you place a
table minimum bet on the third spot. By making plays on that hand that
may sacrifice losing your table minimum bet, you’re increasing the
chance of winning or “saving” your other two large bets.
Dealers
A key to finding a desirable game for location play is identifying a
consistent dealer. A consistent dealer is one who consistently performs a
“fine riffle.” This type of dealer is consistent in the size of segment picks
and placement of plugs. A sloppy dealer can provide more opportunities,
provided that dealer is consistently sloppy!
If you encounter a sloppy dealer, you may notice a “clumping” effect,
where you have the opportunity to identify a sequence that may remain
intact with no cards riffled amidst the known sequence.
Some dealers have a tendency to favor either their left or right hand.
Common effects of hand-favoring are:
A dealer favoring the left hand has a tendency to grab more cards in
the left hand, resulting in some cards riffled from that hand to remain
clumped.
A dealer favoring the left hand may still grab an equal number of
cards in both hands, but during the riffle applies stronger left-thumb
pressure, causing the cards from the left hand to drop at a faster rate than
those from the right hand. This results in some defects in the riffling,
which need to be identified. An imperfect riffle can result in excess
separation of your key cards. When playing against such a dealer, it’s
helpful to have one or more partners at the table providing more spots
where the ace can land.
A dealer favoring the left hand also causes the card(s) from the left
hand to drop first during the riffling process.
Summary
Similar to the previous chapter, the information presented here is far
from sufficient to lead a player to go out and attempt location play at the
tables. You may recall my mentioning that very few players can
successfully track shuffles. Well, even fewer have the ability to
consistently and accurately play a winning game using location-play
strategies. The exercises presented are based on ideal circumstances.
However, there are just too many variations to consider and be prepared
for. This skill set is very complex, which is why few players attempt it.
Suppose you follow sequences for two aces and before the end of the
shoe, a new dealer comes in who, during the shuffle process, breaks up
one or more of your sequences. What if you miscalculate and the ace
ends up in the dealer’s hand? You’re now at a 37% disadvantage! You
may even come across a situation where you successfully get your ace,
but the dealer gets a second unknown ace. Think about what else can go
wrong and be prepared for such events. Remember, this chapter contains
the bare basics only. Unfortunately, there are no published resources I’m
aware of that provide the necessary advanced training on this topic.
 The
Purple Zone
 27
Introduction to Team Play
Based on several factors, once you enter the Purple Zone, playing solo
limits your opportunities. You may find it more profitable and desirable
to join forces with one or more skilled players, forming a team.
Comparisions of Solo vs. Team Play
Exposure
Players involved in high-stakes blackjack have a limited number of
places that will accept their level of action, which can lead to overplaying
and raising the odds of getting barred. A team can minimize exposure by
rotating schedules.
Limited Bankroll and Bet Range
Suppose a solo player has a bankroll of $10,000. On a team, you can
have 10 players each contributing $10,000, creating a bankroll of
$100,000. Thus, if you’re setting your maximum bet as a percentage of
your bankroll, each of you can bet 10 times higher than you would if
playing solo. Of course, winnings are divided 10 ways, but the
fluctuations inherent in the game are greatly attenuated and you’re still
winning 10 times as much as you would playing solo.
Fluctuations and Negative Swings
A solo player can run into a negative swing that can completely wipe
out an entire bankroll. Many players who attempt to count cards playing
solo don’t last a year before throwing in the towel. Playing with a team,
one member can have a bad session, while three others may have
winning sessions. The swings are more manageable in team play.
Limited Number of Playing Hours
The solo player has the ability to put in only a limited number of
hours each day. Let’s say a solo player puts in eight hours each day. A
team with 10 players each putting in the same eight-hour day is getting a
total of 80 hours of play each day. Here’s a set of sample numbers:
Solo Team of
 Player 10 Players
Bank: $10,000 $100,000
Maximum Bet: $100 $1,000
Average Bet (Estimate): $20 $200
Hands Dealt Per Hour: 70 70
Total Action1: $1,400 $14,000
(for 1 player per hour)
Win Rate Per Hour2: $14 $140 (for one player)
Hours of Play Daily: 8 80 (for the team)
Total Daily Win per player: $112 $1,120
Total Expected Daily Win: $112 $11,200 (for the team)
Like Minds Wanted
There’s also the intangible benefit of the motivational support you get
from playing with others versus playing solo. It’s a fact that life as a card
counter can be very lonely. Chances are that the people with whom you
are close (family, friends, coworkers) cannot begin to relate to what
you’re doing. When you’re elated about a big win and want to relate all
the intricate details to someone, you can’t. After running into a really bad
session, no one can understand and sympathize with you. There’s no one
with whom you can talk things through to see what may have gone
wrong (if anything), no one to motivate you to get back out there and
play on. Joining up with others who are involved in card counting
provides you with the sounding board you really need at times.
You’ve been counting cards at blackjack for a while and may have
been successful. You’ve read many of the books, including those written
by Ken Uston, and now have an interest in team play. You want to waltz
into a casino and start slamming down table-limit bets, win tons of
money, and stroke your ego to boot. This is common among younger
players just starting out or having played for only a short while. You can
spot these guys a mile away.
I too read Ken Uston’s Million Dollar Blackjack in the early 1980s, and
at the time caught a small dose of that fever. I was working fulltime at a
good-paying job and could only take weekend trips to Atlantic City or a
couple of week-long trips to Las Vegas or other destinations during the
course of the year. After mastering the Uston APC, I started playing solo
and winning at a respectable rate.
Then I hit my first extended losing streak. It was back to the books for
a refresher course. I realized that the negative swing I’d just experienced
was quite common. I needed to get used to it and respect it. The main
problem I was experiencing was that I had nobody to talk to about the
game! I hoped to have the opportunity to hook up with a team at some
point, where I could bet higher and reduce the variance one experiences
as a solo player. I was fortunate when I was recruited onto a high-stakes
team in 1985.
My First Team
I’d been card counting for almost three years. On a trip to Las Vegas, I
was playing in a casino for moderate stakes with no difficulty. There was
another fellow at the table, a European I’ll call Andrew, and we got to
talking about skiing in the Swiss Alps and other places in Europe. He
was playing higher stakes than I was. The conversation was interesting,
and since I had the ability to talk while maintaining the count, I was
doing so. Andrew got a comp for lunch and invited me to join him. Since
I was about ready to break, myself, I accepted his offer.
Over lunch we continued discussing European ski areas when out of
the clear blue he asked me, “What count are you using?” Completely
caught off guard, I sat silent for several seconds. Then sensing my
resistance, Andrew volunteered: “I use the Revere Count.”
I then told him, “I use the Uston Advanced Point Count.” I asked
him: “How did you know I was counting? Was I that obvious?”
He responded, “No, you were covering your skills very well. It’s just
that being a counter, I am very aware of other counters at the table, and I
know what to look for.” He went on to tell me that he’d been playing for
10 years worldwide. He then asked, “Are you playing with anyone else?”
I responded, “If you’re asking whether I’m playing with a team, no, I’m
not. Just myself. How about you?”
That’s when Andrew told me about the team he was playing with.
He was a member of a team consisting of roughly 20 players, active
worldwide. Its method of operation was a bit different than those I’d
read about up to that point. I envisioned a counter seated at a table, flat
betting the table minimum, signaling in a “big player” or BP (who took
signals and placed large bets) when the count got high, and continuing to
signal the big player how much to bet according to the count and how to
play the hands. The BP avoided any suspicion, as he didn’t have to pay
attention to the cards and could drink alcohol at the game. The big-
player concept was originally devised by Al Francesco (pseudonym) and
first made public in Ken Uston’s book titled The Big Player.
The method applied by Andrew’s team was similar, except the
counters weren’t seated at the table. Rather, they stood behind it, while
maintaining the count. The big players were signaled in on positive
counts, then signaled to leave during negative counts. Since the team was
large enough and had counters stationed behind several tables, the big
players would usually be able to get a signal and bounce from table to
table, playing only positive counts. I found this method interesting, as
the team was wagering only in situations when the player had the
advantage, and never playing at a disadvantage.
Andrew said, “I just arrived in town today and am getting a little
time in on my own, but some of our team will be arriving this evening.”
He then offered, “We’re always looking for good counters and if you’d
like I could introduce you to the team manager.”
I replied, “Sure, I’d be interested, but I have a fulltime job and don’t
know how much time I’d have available. How much money would I
have to kick in?”
“That can all be worked out, as we have a few players who also play
only part-time, and you can contribute as much as you want to the bank,
or contribute nothing. We do like everyone to put in a little something,
though.”
We then talked a bit more and Andrew told me that he’d mention me
to the team manager. If he were interested in meeting me, it would be set
up, provided I was interested. I arranged to meet Andrew for a drink
later that evening. I was intrigued, as I’d read about how teams are able
to lay down huge bets and make all kinds of money, but I never expected
to have the opportunity to play on one.
Then I started to wonder if maybe Andrew was trying to con me. My
head was spinning.
Later that evening, I met up with Andrew and he informed me that
the team manager, “Reggie,” was interested in meeting me. He said, “We
could go up to his room right now if you like.”
Even though I was a bit cautious, I said, “Let’s go.” We went over to
the hotel where Reggie was staying and entered his room. Reggie looked
to be in his early 40s and was also European.
He didn’t waste any time. As soon as we were introduced, he
immediately sat me down, tossed a deck of cards on the table, pulled out
one card, and said, “Andrew tells me you use the Uston APC. Using your
count, I want you to count down this deck and tell me the value of the
card that I pulled. Ready? Go.”
I counted down in a bit over 30 seconds, but got the value of the card
correct.
Reggie said, “Try again, I know you can do better than that.”
I counted down again. This time I finished in less than 25 seconds.
Reggie had me count down a few more times, until he seemed convinced
that I was quick and accurate enough. Then, he dealt me some hands,
which he had me play using basic strategy. He dealt very fast and
wanted me making my decisions just as fast.
Next, he tossed some chips on the table and said, “Now play the
hands using basic strategy and make your bets according to the count.”
We did this for about 15 minutes, until he tested me on my accuracy
in converting running count to true and maintaining a side count of aces.
I felt confident with the results.
Reggie then asked, “Do you know all the play variations for the Uston
APC?”
I said, “Yeah.”
“Do you happen to have your flash cards or chart with you?”
“No, but I do have them in my hotel room.”
“How much longer do you plan on being in town?”
I told him I’d be around for three more days.
“What are your plans for the next three days?”
I told him, “Put in as many hours of play as I can.”
 Reggie then offered, “Why don’t you go back to your hotel, get your
flash cards, and bring them back here? If you know your indices as well
as you say you do, perhaps we can make the next three days a bit more
interesting for you.”
I agreed. “Okay, I’ll be right back.” When I left, I was excited, but
extremely nervous. It looked like I’d receive an offer to play on their
team. But could these guys be trusted? I didn’t know what to think. Then
I thought again that Andrew had mentioned I wouldn’t be required to
lay out any money.
When I got back to the hotel room, Reggie drilled me on the play-
variation flash cards and I guess I passed the audition, as Reggie then
said, “Okay, time to get you working.” He explained the method his
team used, which corresponded to what Andrew had outlined earlier in
the day. “We’re a winning team,” he told me confidently. “This trip we’ll
be in town for two weeks, playing to a two hundred thousand dollar
bank. If and when we double the bank, we distribute the winnings and
start a new bank. I’ll train you as a ‘backcounter,’ passing signals, and
you’ll be paid on an hourly basis.” Reggie showed me the formula for
how the “hourly counter’s rate” was determined: 25% of the total win
was distributed to counters in proportion to their hours of play. For
example, if the team doubled the bank (won $200,000) in 400 counter
hours:

If I could put in 24 hours of play over the next three days, I stood to
make $3,000! At that point I’d never made that much money for three
days of anything. If the bank doubled in less time, I’d make even more. I
figured that the only thing I’d have to lose is time. So I said to Reggie,
“Count me in. What’s next?”
Reggie said, “I’ve got to leave for a couple of hours. Andrew will run
you through our signals, which are easy to follow. When I return, we’ll
run through them again. Then get some rest and we’ll meet back here
sometime in the morning. At that time we’ll go over the signals some
more and by then the rest of the team should be here.” Reggie left and
Andrew and I went over the signals for the next couple of hours.
 When Reggie returned, he put me through some drills with the
signals and told me I was doing well. That made me feel good, because
up until then, Reggie had made no comment on my ability.
The next morning, I returned to the hotel room. I was introduced to
five other team members. Sitting in a circle, we went through an ongoing
series of drills. We passed around decks of cards, counting them down.
We passed around flash cards to quiz one another on play variations and
dealt out hands where we would quickly need to place our bets in
accordance with the count. We paired off and worked on passing signals.
By the time we ordered in for lunch, the complete group was present, 14
players in total.
After lunch, Reggie held a meeting and passed out the assignments
for the evening’s sessions. The previous evening, when Reggie left
Andrew and me to practice, he’d gone off to scout a few casinos and
noted in the assignments specific dealers to look for and to avoid. I
wasn’t assigned any playing duties for the evening, as I’d been instructed
simply to observe the operation. The setup had nine players stationed at
various tables throughout a large casino during the evening. We left to
take a break and relax a bit, with instructions to meet for dinner and
some quick run-throughs before the 9 p.m. session.
The members of the team didn’t all use the same count systems. One
additional advantage in having all members of a team use the same
system is that a counter can signal in another member and signal what
the exact count is, avoiding the need to further signal how much to bet
and how to play the hands.
After dinner, some last-minute practice, and a brief meeting, we left
for the target casino in five-minute intervals. My instructions were to sit
by the bar, which overlooked the gaming pit, and watch the signals being
passed. I was also instructed to watch the actions of the pit, specifically
looking for any signs that a pit person might have caught on to the team.
I was the first to enter the casino. There was a nice enough crowd, but
the tables weren’t all full. I found a seat at the bar that enabled me to get
a clear view of the entire pit. I watched our first backcounter, Michelle,
enter and station herself behind a table; then the nine other backcounters
arrived at staggered times, each at a different table. I didn’t notice any of
our five big players there yet, until I saw a backcounter flash the signal
for a big player to enter a game. Then, from behind a bank of slot
machines, one of our big players slid over to the table. Already in
possession of chips, he placed a bet of several black $100 chips. The
dealer looked over to the floorperson, who nodded and walked over to
watch the game. While this was going on, I saw another backcounter
flash a signal, whereupon another of our BPs jumped in on the game.
After about 20 minutes our entire team was working the floor. Some of
the points I noticed were:
A couple of the backcounters occasionally leaned over to chat with a
total stranger seated and playing at the table. I figured this move was to
blend in a bit more and not appear too obvious standing behind a table.
Backcounters traded off tables periodically, so as not to look obvious
standing in one place for too long.
Backcounters positioned themselves opposite an empty seat at the
table, to enable the big player to have a clear view of the signals passed.
The session lasted for almost 90 minutes, as I watched each
backcounter routinely giving the “end-of-session” signal. Then it was off
to a second casino, where I was instructed to station myself in the keno
parlor, which gave me a clear view of the action. The operation ran in the
same fashion as before, except it was a bit shorter, lasting a little more
than one hour. I noticed some more attention from the pit in this session.
After the second session, we all met back at the hotel. Everyone was
present, except for Reggie. The five big players were completing their
win/loss session sheets. One of the members, Jill, was responsible for
keeping the master records. While all the tallying was going on, we were
discussing the sessions, comparing notes about the pit, certain dealers,
and general observations.
Shortly thereafter, Reggie returned and immediately asked Jill where
we stood. Jill announced that we were up $11,000. Reggie seemed
pleased. He said he’d work on the assignments for the next day and
distribute them during our 4 p.m. meeting tomorrow. We’d do four one-
hour sessions scheduled in large crowded casinos with multiple pits and
lots of tables.
Reggie asked me, “What do you think of the operation so far?”
I answered, “It’s amazing. You guys have it down to a science.”
He asked, “So you think you’re ready to give it a try?”
I agreed. Reggie then told me, “Good, you’re on the schedule for
tomorrow.”
We filtered out of the hotel room and I went to my room to get some
sleep. The next day, we met again for our afternoon meeting, ordering in
an early dinner. The setup was a little different from the day before. We
were 15 players, myself included, and Reggie thought we could increase
our win rate by getting more money on the tables. He proposed to do
this by having eight backcounters and seven big players. Reggie further
said that he would backcount, but if his table were cold, he’d put chips
into play periodically at another table as a big player. This started to
sound a bit confusing, but then it clicked and sounded like it could work.
At 6:15 it was time for me to head out. I had my assignment sheet,
which listed some preferred dealers. I arrived at the casino, which had
mostly 6-deck games, along with a half dozen 4-deckers. I found one of
the dealers on the list working a 6-deck table with a $100 minimum and a
$5,000 maximum and three empty seats. I stationed myself right there,
watching the pit. I noticed they all seemed busy, as the place was getting
crowded.
Soon enough, all eight of our backcounters, Reggie included, were in
the casino, stationed at various tables. It was almost 7 p.m., time for our
big players to start arriving, and the dealer at my table was about to
shuffle. But before he did, a relief dealer replaced him. I didn’t know
what to do, so I just stood there, watching this relief dealer shuffle,
hoping the cut card would be placed somewhere to indicate favorable
penetration. It was placed one deck from the back, which was actually
better than the previous dealer. I was relieved.
After two shoes were dealt out, I didn’t get a favorable enough count
to signal anyone over. On the third shoe, I finally caught a high count
and gave the signal for a big player to enter the game. Kevin jumped in
with four purple $500 chips and drew a total of 9 against a dealer’s
upcard of 6. He placed four more purple chips for a double down, and
drew a ten for a total of 19. My heart was pounding, as the dealer turned
over a hole card of a ten, then drew an ace for a 17. Kevin had $8,000 on
the table, collected $6,000, and left the $2,000 bet, as I signaled him to do
so. He was next dealt a hand of 20 against a dealer’s ten. The hand ended
as a push. In that process the count dropped, so I signaled Kevin to leave
the table. He grabbed his chips and left without a word. That shoe ended,
and as the dealer went through the shuffle routine, I thought it worked
out well. I signaled Kevin in for two more hands and we won $4,000
more.
It was getting near the time we were scheduled to end the session and
there was probably time for one more shoe. Midway through the shoe,
the count was again favorable and I went for the signal. No one came
into the game. I looked around and didn’t see any of our team members
around. I looked at my watch and saw it was 8 p.m. and everyone had
probably filtered out, so I headed to the next casino on the list. Things
went smoothly and I was subtle in my passing of signals. What stood out
most were the times I had to wait patiently until a favorable count came
around. We weren’t playing as many hands per hour, but we weren’t
playing any hands in negative or neutral counts, where the house has an
advantage.
When we gathered back in Reggie’s hotel room, we calculated our
win for the night at $19,000. Adding that to the previous day’s win, we
were up a total of $30,000. Reggie told me that I did well, as did a few of
the big players who responded to my signals. I played the next day, then
had to get back home. A week later, I was informed that the team had
doubled the bank and I was sent my counter’s wage. I continued to play
with this team for a bit less than a year. We played in Las Vegas,
northern Nevada, Atlantic City, and the Caribbean. Then they went on to
play around the world, which required a fulltime commitment. I wasn’t
in a position to leave my regular job and career at that time, so we parted
company.
Over the years, I’ve played on various teams of different sizes and
bankrolls. The one key factor in whether a team is right for you or you
are right for that team is identifying the objectives of everyone involved.
Different players have different goals. Some teams have a revolving door
of players. These teams play to maximum expectation and they take no
prisoners. As a result, players become subject to overexposure and are
likely to end up getting barred on sight. When this happens, a player has
a lot of difficulty being able to play for any length of time and quits. This
is fine for someone looking to make a few quick dollars without the
desire of making a career of playing blackjack. It works well with some
teams that make a practice of recruiting such players. On the other hand,
players looking to maintain longevity need to be certain that the method
of play the team requires permits certain forms of camouflage to
minimize detection.
Team play works. When approached in the proper manner, it’s
strong, which is why casinos are afraid of teams. The team, with several
players, can put more hours of more money in action, which adds up to
faster and higher earnings than a solo player can achieve. Up until
recently, every team bank that I’ve been part of has been profitable.
I could sit here and start bragging about the successes and how great
things have been, but I think it’s more important to insert a healthy dose
of reality and illustrate the worst I’ve experienced. The last team I
personally organized was a losing financial effort. As the Boy Scout
Motto goes, “Be Prepared.”
There hasn’t been a book that actually details the play of a blackjack
team in the form of a diary. Stuart Perry authored the Las Vegas Blackjack
Diary in 1994 (self-published in 1995 and last revised by ConJelCo in
1997), in which he detailed two months of solo play. Barry Meadow has
also written a book, Blackjack Autumn (Huntington Press, 2000), about his
adventures playing blackjack in every casino in Nevada.
Many lessons were learned from Stuart and Barry’s books. My initial
idea was to record the progress of my most recent team in diary form.
For those having any interest in team play, this would have shown the
ups and downs, highlighting some of the mistakes we made. However, I
decided against the project in such a format out of respect for my
teammates. There really wasn’t an accurate way to document activities
for an entire book without giving up personal details. That’s a no-no. I
eventually decided on a different approach. The goal of the Purple Zone
is to provide a guideline for anyone interested in forming or
participating in a professional blackjack team. Also included is an outline
for putting together a team manual.
Let’s start off with some choice sections from a recent personal team
diary, noting that many details have been changed to omit personal
information about the team members.
29
Getting to Know You

We started with 12 enthusiastic players and a healthy bankroll.

Sixteen months later, the team was out of business and the majority of
the players were disillusioned. I hope the following material provides
guidance for anyone interested in team play and especially in organizing
a team.
The Initial Approach
In this day and age, many acquaintances are made via blackjack-
related Internet websites. In addition to a few players I’ve known
personally, I’ve met some players on the Internet and have corresponded
only via email. I initially approached the players I had in mind by
sending each a private email invitation. In this initial message, I stated,
“I’m thinking of starting a team and thought you might be interested.” I
further stated that we’d start off at small stakes to get comfortable with
one another initially, then take it from there. At first, I didn’t mention
who else I had in mind. Once a player expressed an interest in joining the
team, I asked permission to include that person’s name on a “team
distribution list,” so then and only then, everyone would know who else
was involved.
The Team Distribution List
The next step was to put together a “team distribution email list”
where I listed everyone’s email address and could send any message just
once instead of nine times to each member. This also let all members
know who else was on the team. The first message outlined what I had in
mind for the team, the formula for distributing the winnings, and the
time frame estimated for when we should be in a position to take an
initial team trip with a joint bank. This first message led to many
interactions via email, with most members exchanging ideas and
thoughts.
A Private Team Chat Room
A Private Team Chat Room
While the team distribution mailing was working well, the obvious
next step was to get everyone together in one place to conduct a live
team meeting. This was not an easy task, since the players were scattered
around the country, holding full-time responsibilities other than playing
professional blackjack. To set up an initial meeting where each member
could be present, I arranged with the host of a website to use a private
chat room, available only to the team. In the next message, I suggested
that we schedule a real-time team meeting via the private chat room and
asked everyone to list three dates and times when each would be
available. After deciding on the set time and date, we held a very
productive chat, where we exchanged more ideas and clarified some
pending issues. A few subsequent sessions were held.
The Trust Issue
Here we were, a team with 10 people, many of whom had never met
or even spoken on the phone, and we were considering pooling funds to
play blackjack together. This was my first consideration, and I was well
aware that all the others felt the same way. We needed controls that
would put everyone at ease and methods where everyone’s risk would
be minimal.
First, in the selection of the other nine, I tried to be as careful as I
could in judging character. However, I needed to take everyone else’s
concerns into consideration. Although I was confident in my judgment of
the others, they may have had reservations in their judgments of one
another, as well as in their judgments of me.
To provide a bit more comfort, I outlined the following points to
ensure everyone that I was taking measures in an attempt to keep things
honest.
The initial team plays would take place only while the entire team
was present. Some teams use an approach that permits members to play
in different cities and report results. I didn’t even consider this. If a
member were present, that member would have quick knowledge of the
position of the team bank.
For the initial team trip, I proposed that all members be required to
invest an equal amount of money to the team bank.
 The individual investment proposed was a moderate amount that I
considered appropriate for an initial team trip of members who had
never played together before.
The bulk of the team bank would be maintained in a safe-deposit box
in a hotel in which we didn’t plan on playing. We arranged that the box
could be accessed only with two team members present. Upon
depositing or withdrawing any funds from the box, both members were
required to sign off, verifying the amounts.
I indicated that I wasn’t in any hurry to hit the tables. I felt that
everyone needed to be thoroughly tested and observed in actual casino
play to get an idea of our respective abilities. I set a tentative date several
months away to give enough time to put together a solid approach.
The above points helped to put everyone a bit more at ease.
Along the Way …
After a short period, two players, who weren’t able to make a
commitment to keep up with the immediate program, dropped out. It
was agreed to keep them in mind for possible future additions to the
team, but for the initial trip, we were down to eight players.
Matching the Faces with the Keystrokes
We arranged to have our first live meeting in a casino town over the
course of a four-day weekend. We held a meeting and discussed team
matters. We then went through the process of testing one another on
basic strategy and various counting drills. Next, we set up a schedule
where we went off to the casinos to play (on our own individual banks)
in one-hour intervals. We went in pairs and switched off with each other
in an hour, when changing casinos. The purpose of this was to allow
everyone to get more comfortable playing with one another, as well as
just generally getting to know one another. This really worked out well.
This initial informal get-together was good, as I was confident in most of
the others’ abilities, and I trusted they were confident of mine.
Final Notes: Meeting Players via the Internet and Other Security Matters
Exercise care when first communicating with someone over the
Internet. Don’t reveal too many facts about yourself at first. Treat this
developing relationship similarly to any other type of relationship you
might enter into (personal, business, etc.). As you get more comfortable
with the other(s), you can gradually share more about yourself, as long
as you’re also receiving more in return.
For the most part, whatever someone tells you via e-communications,
take with a grain of salt. It’s easy for someone to sit down in front of his
computer, gather his thoughts, and write a great “résumé.” However,
once you meet someone in person, you may find that much of what he
has written may turn out to be exaggeration. It’s too easy for someone
with a huge ego to amplify his own abilities. Many many people do this
on a regular basis. In the various Internet blackjack neighborhoods, I’ve
encountered a few individuals who led me to believe that they had years
of experience playing large stakes, when in reality they were just talking
a big game. While it’s easy to “talk the talk,” you want players who can
“walk the walk.”
If you’re interested in recruiting for your team or joining a team, put
the word out carefully by stating that you’re “considering forming a
team” or “may consider joining a team.” I suggest this method, because if
you give the indication that you are forming a team and someone wants
to join whom you eventually decide you don’t want as a member, you
can avoid creating bad feelings by stating you’re “still considering.”
When you progress to exchanging phone numbers and move on to
live voices, exercise care, at first, in what phone number you provide the
person(s) with. I usually give out a cell-phone number. Another point to
be aware of is that nowadays many people have Caller ID. If you call
someone, the phone number from which you’re initiating the call will
likely appear on that person’s Caller ID Box. To avoid this, check with
your local phone company for instructions on how to block your phone
number from appearing on the receiver’s ID Box.
When meeting people live in a neutral place, don’t initially tell
anyone where you’re staying. State that you haven’t made reservations,
and will, probably, see a casino host when you arrive. You can also state
that you’ll be staying at one of several places. This way, if the person
turns out to be someone you’re uncomfortable with, you have a better
chance of avoiding him (sound like dating?).
 When you do meet someone live, you want to observe him play and
have him observe you play. It’s important to establish immediately a
mutual respect for playing abilities.
In summary, the Internet is a good place to meet and join forces with
other players. While there are some good players out there looking to do
so, there are probably more inadequate people typing into their
computers. If you exercise care and common sense, you’ll probably find
the quality contacts.
30
Team Leadership

Management
In order for a team to be successful, it’s essential to have strong
management. A good way to assure this is to have one person in charge
of the team’s day-to-day operations. The manager must possess strong
organizational, leadership, motivational, and planning skills. A team
manager should be prepared to be on call 24/7. There will be times when
a player is in action and runs into a problem, which could be a need for
cash. There’s a chance that a player in this situation will need to phone
the manager at some late hour. Sorry, but it’s part of the job.
It’s also important that everyone on the team have the utmost faith in
the manager. Everyone involved must trust the manager’s judgment in
all matters. This is especially important in the manager’s decision on
selecting players. He or she must be 100% reliable. Players and investors
need to know that the manager is on top of things. As a result, a manager
should be in contact with everyone involved on a regular basis. A
manager who possesses a laid-back attitude of not contacting folks unless
they initiate the contact first is headed for disaster. Initiating and
maintaining constant contact creates a high level of comfort for all
involved. A manager should be entitled to some form of compensation in
line with the duties performed. Such compensation should be agreed
upon, which neither overcompensates nor underpays the manager.
Some Methods of Management Compensation
Flat rate, which can be a set dollar amount, payable either on the
front-end, back-end, or in intervals.
Flat hourly rate, where the manager must account for hours devoted
to team business.
Commission percentage upon conclusion of a winning bank. If the
team experiences a losing bank, the manager receives nothing. (I believe
that this method isn’t fair, as it’s purely “result-driven.”) A portion of
each investment is allocated as an investment on behalf of the manager.
In this method, an investor submitting $20,000 may have $500 or an
agreed-upon amount taken out up front, which becomes the manager’s
compensation in the form of an investment on the manager’s behalf. If 10
investors each put in $20,000, this amounts to a $5,000 investment for the
manager. If the agreed-upon amount is $1,000, then the manager has a
$10,000 “free-roll.”
Percentage of adjusted hourly expected value (“EV”) of all players.
Percentage of adjusted hourly EV of all players, with win-bonus
incentive, such as the following: 5% of adjusted hourly EV of all players.
5% bonus on overall win at year-end.
A win-bonus share in the amount of 25% of the win in excess of the
established total team adjusted hourly EV, provided the investor’s return
is at least 50% of the total win after salaries, bonuses, and expenses.
Note: You can make it a further requirement for distribution of this
bonus that the overall team EV be exceeded and the total hours played
by all players meet or exceed the hours committed as a whole.
Example of Win-Bonus
Total EV “goal” = $5,000,000.
Actual win = $7,000,000 ($2,000,000 in excess of EV).
Salaries, bonuses, expenses = $2,000,000.
Gross Return to Investor = $5,000,000.
25% of $2,000,000 = $500,000 (bonus to manager).
Net to Investor = $4,500,000 (approx. 65% of actual win).
Note: These are just a few examples of some methods to compensate a
manager. You can get creative within any one method, as well as
combine any or all of these methods in a total compensation package.
Egos, Egos, and More Egos
Who is the best player on the team? Your response should be “Who
cares?” It doesn’t matter, as long as each player is competent and
meeting the team standards.
How do you measure a “best” player, anyway? Is it the player using
the most expert-level count system? Is it the player who has the record
for all-time biggest session win? Is it the player who can count down a
deck in the fastest time? Is it the player who has never been barred and
has the greatest act? All this is meaningless. Every player on the team has
a significant role in achieving the ultimate success. It’s the job of the
manager to identify each player’s strengths and weaknesses, putting
them to use in a manner where strengths are maximized and weaknesses
are minimized.
A problem that frequently arises on teams is that a player feels more
experienced or plays a stronger overall game than others do and feels he
should receive a higher salary as a result. While this is a bit distracting
and can create bad feelings, there’s some merit to the concept. One
common solution is to base a percentage of the winnings on how much a
player has individually won. The problem with this is that players hit a
negative swing regardless of how strong or weak they are, and this
method fails to rightfully reward those deserving. Another solution is to
measure the EV of each player and devise a method of compensation
based on such measurement. With the use of simulators, this is possible
(be aware that it may be difficult to accurately measure the effects of
multiple strategies). This enables players playing at different bet levels to
be compensated accordingly.
Overall, while players should be encouraged to strive for excellence
in play, competition amongst players is not beneficial to a team working
toward a common goal and should be discouraged. A strong
leader/manager should possess the necessary skills to form a cohesive
and non-competitive group.
31
Methods of Player Compensation

Whether dealing with a combination of two or 20 players and

investors, one of the biggest decisions you need to make is how to
compensate players for services performed and when. While being far
from complete, the following are some methods used by teams over the
years.
Method A
50/50 Split of Winnings with Frequent Distributions
Let’s take a scenario where you have a two-person team, with one
investor and one player. The investor fronts $100,000 and the player
agrees to make five trips, totaling 100 hours, with the winnings
distributed at the end of each trip. The agreement is for the winnings to
be split equally between investor and player. Here are the results:

Bottom Line: Player received compensation of $21,000. The overall

bank shows a win of $5,000, but after paying the player, the investor is
left with only $84,000 or a $16,000 loss after salaries.
Method B
50/50 Split of Winnings with One Distribution
Let’s take this same scenario with a different payment scheme; we’ll
use the same scenario as in Method A, except with the winnings
distributed after the completion of the 5 trips:
 Total net win of $5,000 is divided equally between player and
investor.
Bottom Line: Player received compensation of $2,500, and the
investor earned $2,500 as a result of the player’s efforts.
Quite a difference between these two methods. How can one
determine a fair compromise? The first thing that comes to mind is that
the hours of play for a five-trip bank may not be sufficient to provide a
fair enough opportunity for the investor to overcome the inherent short-
term variance. A solution here would be to extend the length of play
before any winnings are distributed. CVCX software, by QFIT, is a
superb tool to determine the chance of achieving a specified goal after a
desired number of hours.
Method C
Multi-Player-Invested Bank, Expenses and Management Commission
Deducted from Gross Win.
Net Win 50% Investor/50% Player Based on Hours.
This method, as depicted in the chart below, resembles the above two
methods, with added provisions for player expenses, along with a 10%
manager commission deducted from the gross win. Here, all the players
are also investors. It could be a requirement that all players also be
investors. If all player/investors are required to invest the same amount
and play a certain numbers of hours (not the case here), then the
frequency of distributing the winnings doesn’t have an effect on any one
participant.
One disadvantage of this method comes into play if you have non-
investing players and end up with a losing bank: The players will end up
playing with no compensation.
Another issue to address when considering this method is whether or
not all the players are playing at a level generating the same hourly win
rate. If you have one player betting at a range of $50 to $600, while
another player is betting $100 to $1,200, the latter player is obviously
playing at a higher win rate and should be compensated for that. This
method, as it’s presented, would not be workable for such situations.
One thing you can consider when determining the hourly rate is to
“discount” that pay rate for those playing at lower levels. The methods
described further down may provide some additional solutions.

Method D
Multi-Player-Invested Bank, Expenses and Manager’s Commission Deducted
from Gross Win.
Net Win: 50% Investor/25% Player Based on Hours/25% Player Based on
Win.
This method was used by some of Ken Uston’s teams. There’s been
quite a bit of debate over the years about players receiving compensation
based on how much they win. Don Schlesinger, for one, is strongly
opposed to the practice of rewarding players on short-term win results.
On a couple of my teams, I attempted to strike a balance by using a 50%
investor/40% player based on hours/10% player based on win formula.
As in Method C, here all the players are investors as well. The same
advantages/disadvantages indicated in that method apply.
 Method E
Player Paid Hourly Wage, No Share Based on Win
In this method, the investor pays the player on an hourly basis. The
hourly rate is determined as a percentage of the EV of the game. Let’s
say, after plugging the numbers into CVCX, it’s determined that a
player’s EV based on perfect play for a particular game is $1,200 per
hour.
The next step is to provide an allowance for less-than-perfect play.
Will the player employ any camouflage plays in a manner that would
reduce the $1,200 per hour? If so, and you have the means to evaluate the
cost of such plays, you can deduct this from the hourly EV. If the player
is observed (or reports) making an error, the cost of that one error in play
can be deducted as well. One way to fine-tune things is to deduct 10%–
20% from the calculated EV based on the overall skill level of the player,
to allow for any errors or camouflage plays. To determine the percent
allowance, you can use a grading system based on the player’s testing
results. Let’s say you decide to allow for 10%. Now your adjusted EV is
$1,080 per hour.
 Another factor you may elect to add into the equation is expenses. If
the nature of the play doesn’t provide for reimbursement by a casino,
you may want to consider any expenses (e.g., travel) as a cost and deduct
from the hourly EV. If a player is paying $500 for a plane ticket and
another $500 for room and meals, you have $1,000 in expenses for the
trip. If the trip is estimated for 20 hours of play, divide the total expenses
by the number of hours and deduct that amount from the hourly EV.
Example: $1,000/20 = $50. Deduct $50 from your previously adjusted EV
of $1,080, and your new adjusted EV is $1,030.
You decide to pay the player a percentage of this adjusted EV. If you
decide to pay 25% of adjusted hourly EV, the player receives an hourly
wage of $257.50.
In this method, the player gets paid regardless of the results. If after
100 hours, the results are negative, the player will have still wages
totaling $25,750. On the other hand, if the player scores a $100,000 win
after 10 hours of play, the player receives only 10 hours of pay, totaling
$2,575, while the remaining $97,425 goes to the investor.
Method F
Player Receives Combination of Hourly Wage + Win Incentive Bonus
By decreasing the hourly rate paid to players, this method provides
the investor with some protection, where compensation to players is in a
graduated manner based on time commitments, while providing good
incentives for the player(s) and the manager (as applicable). However,
the investor could still end up at a disadvantage, having paid salaries,
after realizing a losing bank.
Step 1: A total team bankroll is determined for a one-year cycle (this
could be changed).
Step 2: Each player is asked to commit to a certain number of hours
for the year, venues of choice for play, game types, and stakes.
Step 3: Based on the above, each player’s EV is determined, along
with estimated expenses involved with the proposed play, creating an
adjusted EV figure.
Step 4: Based on overall EV and committed hours, each player’s pay
scale can be established as follows:
 Hourly adjusted EV is determined and player receives 10% of that
EV, along with 5% of each trip win until 50% of the committed hours are
played.
After 50% of committed hours are played, player’s hourly pay
increases to 15% of the adjusted EV and trip win percentage increases to
10%.
Note: Increasing the percentage here helps provide motivation in the
event a player is burning out.
Player Bonuses
Single Player Bonus (best suited in situations where one player is working
for an investor or group of investors)—If a player meets or exceeds total
adjusted EV and meets or exceeds the committed hours, a calculation
will determine if the player’s total pay amounts to less than 25% of actual
win. If so, the difference in that amount (bringing the figure to 25% of
actual win) will be determined and player will receive 50% of that as a
bonus.
Example: Player commits to play 200 hours at an adjusted EV of
$1,500 per hour, for total adjusted EV goal of $300,000.
Player goes 200 hours and wins $350,000.
Based on pay schedule, player receives $ 62,500.
25% of $350,000 (actual win) is $87,500.
Difference in pay ($87,500 – $62,500) is $25,000.
50% of $25,000 is $12,500, representing a “performance bonus” for the
player.
Multi-Player “Team” Bonus (best suited for multi-players working for an
investor or group of investors)—If the overall team EV is met or exceeded
and the total hours played by all players meet or exceed the hours
committed as a whole, a calculation will be performed to determine
whether the total pay remitted to all players, out-of-pocket expenses, and
manager commission amounts to less than 40% of total actual team win.
If so, the difference in that amount (that would bring the figure to 40% of
actual win) will be determined and all players will divide 50% of that
figure. The allotment of this bonus among players will be based purely
on hours played regardless of EV or actual wins.
 Example: Investor paid out a total of $240,000 to all players in
compensation based on the standard pay schedule.
Investor reimbursed players a total of $10,000 for expenses.
Investor paid manager $100,000.
Total actual win is $1,000,000.
Total out-of-pocket by investor is $350,000.
40% of $1,000,000 (actual win) is $400,000.
Difference ($400,000–$350,000) is $50,000.
50% of $50,000 is $25,000, representing a “performance “bonus” to be
divided by all players (or only those players who met their time
commitments). This bonus can be calculated by hours played or
percentage of win. You have options! The additional $25,000 could go to
the manager as a “manager bonus,” it could be distributed to players in
accordance with any number of formulas, or it could be retained by the
investor.
Note: A problem with overall “team” bonuses is that players showing
winning results feel more deserving than those showing losing results.
Method G
This is actually a complement to the above methods that are pertinent
to a long-term bank, where the investor can realize some return on a
monthly or quarterly basis.
In this method, each month or quarter, the investor receives a
percentage of the value of the bank. After this disbursement, the funds
available for play are decreased, which may decrease the bet range. If
you’re paying players based on EV, decreasing the bet range decreases
the hourly rate. An example: On January 1, a starting bank is $1,000,000.
The terms provide for the investor to receive a 1% interest distribution on
the first of each month, calculated on the value of the bank on that date.
On February 1, based on the player results, less expenses and player
wages, the bank is at $900,000. Hence, on February 1, $9,000 is
distributed to the investor and the new value of the bank is $891,000.
Here, the investor can still end up taking a loss in addition to shelling out
wages to players. However, by withdrawing a percentage on a monthly
or quarterly basis, the investor’s blow is softened in the event of an
overall loss. Although the players receive hourly wages, this pay rate can
be subject to a decrease if the hourly EV is reduced as a result of the
investor. In any event, the players receive compensation.
Penalties
Player Penalties
If a certain goal is determined or a certain number of hours to which a
player must commit is established, that player is penalized if these hours
are not met. The penalty can be in the form of a discounted amount of the
hourly wage the player would receive if the required number of hours
were achieved.
Investor Penalties
When dealing with more than one investor, if a single investor elects
to bail out prior to the agreed-upon conclusion of a bank, he receives the
entitled share of the bank at that time, less a penalty. This can represent
an overall loss for such investor. One option for the team is to permit
others to buy out the shares of the departing investor. This enables the
bank to operate at the same level.
This section presents just some of the methods that can be used to
compensate players on a team. It should provide some good ideas for
those involved in team play to come up with a method that works best
for that particular group. Remember, what works for one group may not
work for another.
32
Living with Losses

Some Reasons for Red Ink

Stealing from Within
This can put a team out of business. Not only actually having a
dishonest person on the team, but the mere suspicion that there may be a
dishonest person on the team, can destroy that team. The larger the team,
the more suspicions, especially during a time when the team may be in a
losing position. It’s common for players to start pointing fingers when a
team is experiencing extended losing periods.
Motivation to Steal #1—It’s too easy and the money is there. If you take
someone who’s not used to dealing with large amounts of cash and put
that money in the individual’s hands, the temptation is often hard to
resist.
Recommendation—It’s important to know each person you’re dealing
with as an individual and not solely as a player. Spend a few months
getting to know the person before actually putting money in his or her
hands. The person should realize that the potential to honestly earn a
consistent amount of money on a long-term basis is far more attractive
than running the risk of a being caught stealing and losing this
opportunity.
Motivation to Steal #2—When a team is in a losing position, suspicions
and accusations may fly around. It’s possible that a player who’s been
winning may begin to think, “I’m the only one winning. Something is
wrong. Someone must be stealing, so I’m going to start keeping some
winnings for myself as protection from any stealing.”
Recommendations—The manager of the team should encourage all
players to get to know one another. Arrange schedules where players
mix and match, so that no two players are attached at the hip (at least in
the beginning). This is especially crucial if all the players on the team are
investors. You want to know who’s running around with your money! If
players know one another, it’s less tempting to accuse someone of
stealing on the basis of “I don’t know this person.” Exercise caution
when a player is barred in a particular casino. You don’t want to have
him or her contaminate your “good” players just for the sake of mixing
and matching.
Motivation to Steal #3—When a player shares his time playing for the
team and for himself, he or she may attempt to allot all wins to his own
individual play and all losses to team play.
Recommendation—Do not allow non-team play. If this is not possible,
ensure that hours of team play and non-team play are clearly defined
prior to any play.
Protective Measures
Administer random polygraph tests. Although such tests are not
100% foolproof, it’s a good idea that players know they may be subject to
one at any given time, especially if players take the test on the spot,
without advance notice.
Have players monitored by unknown parties. A player can be
monitored during a random session where an observer notes his buy-in
and win/loss, and watches if he pockets chips. The player should report
how much in chips was pocketed, if done so to deceive the pit.
If your team concept and style warrant, arrange for players to play in
pairs or groups. This facilitates self-monitoring.
Limit the amount of cash any one player may have access to.
Ensure that two people each record every cash transaction.
The best way to provide comfort in the honesty of players is to devote
the time in getting to know one another and promoting interaction
among everyone involved, prior to intermingling funds.
Outside Theft
A player is the victim of a robbery. It should be no surprise that when
an individual is seen handling large amounts of cash, he or she can be a
target for theft.
Recommendation—Educate players on safety and security procedures
when cashing out and leaving a casino. Players should be especially alert
in self-parking garages, elevators, and other remote places. Players
should restrict their routes to well-populated areas. A good rule to
impose is that all players use money belts. Scheduling frequent meetings
also facilitates players’ transferring cash to a team manager for
safekeeping, thus minimizing the period of time any player is holding
excess team funds.
Seizure of Funds by Police or Other Authorities
In airports and customs, large quantities of cash draw extreme
suspicion from authorities. Although the authorities have the power to
do as they please in this respect and it’s considered to be within the letter
of the law, this is actually theft.
Recommendation—Never put cash through the x-ray machines; carry it
on your body. A tax return showing your income from gambling or other
cash business can be helpful if you’re stopped. Otherwise, be prepared to
spend significant quantities of time and money getting your cash back.
House Cheating
Although this is uncommon in today’s environment, players should
be aware of such possibilities. The most common method of cheating by
a casino is that of a dealer shuffling away positive decks early, while
dealing deeper into negative decks. This is known as “preferential
shuffling” and has not yet been considered illegal.
Recommendation—Players should familiarize themselves with
methods of cheating to increase awareness of such practices. Steve
Forte’s video series is a good source, as is Bill Zender’s book, How to
Detect Casino Cheating at Blackjack.
Poor Quality of Play
This is the most common reason a team may experience losses outside
of what are considered the normal fluctuations. Quality of play is a vast
area, which encompasses several variables needed to achieve successful
play.
A player is making errors in live play, despite having passed a thorough
testing of mechanical skills.
Recommendation—Many players perform perfectly in “kitchen-table”
testing, yet fall apart playing for real money with all the distractions of
the casino. There’s no substitute for live experience and each player
should be observed in live play for a defined period of time, before he’s
permitted to play unsupervised. It’s also a good idea to tell players they
should report any errors committed that they’re aware of.
A player is making excessive cover bets and plays to avoid detection. This is
very common and quite costly. However, it may be necessary at times.
The problem is when players inaccurately interpret certain actions made
by pit personnel, which they perceive as heat, and immediately react by
laying down cover.
Recommendation—Educate players on how to identify certain actions
by pit personnel, illustrating how to or how not to react. Provide various
methods of what’s considered acceptable cover and determine the cost of
each. Recommend that players simply leave a casino when they feel
under intense scrutiny, rather than using cover and basically throwing
away money.
A player is scared to place big bets when the count justifies doing so. This is
common when players who are used to playing solo at low stakes join a
high-stakes team. Many players, myself included, have stood there with
hands trembling and heart racing the first time we’ve placed a big bet.
Many players also get spooked after experiencing a big negative swing
and become hesitant to place proper bets in fear of losing more.
Recommendation—Don’t just throw a player in there betting big
money. Ease him into things with an incremental increase in stakes. It’s
also a good idea to have observe the player during the first few sessions
of high-stakes play. Prepare players to eventually experience negative
swings. Provide the necessary support for players who are new to high-
stakes play.
A player is exercising poor judgment in game selection. Many players
enter a casino and don’t properly evaluate the game conditions at hand.
A common mistake is to lower one’s standards of what’s considered an
acceptable game, just because the player is “already there.” Whether it’s
substandard penetration, number of players at the table, or any other
criteria, lowering of a set standard is an overall lowering of the team’s
quality of play. It also violates the assumptions of any simulations and
may, additionally, lead to false reporting of play.
Recommendation—During the initial observation period, deliberately
take the player into a casino with poor games, instructing him to find an
acceptable game. The player, if on top of things, should walk out of the
casino without placing a bet. Outline what the team criteria are for
acceptable playing conditions. Whenever possible, schedule play in an
area where several casinos are within a short distance of one another to
give enough opportunities to find acceptable game conditions.
A player is excessively concerned with obtaining comps. This is common,
and players may spend time in less-than-desirable games in order to
score better comps. In addition, a player may overplay a particular
casino, regardless of the game quality, resulting in overexposure in that
one place.
Recommendation—Implement a comp-pooling system, whereby all
comps must be reported and shared as necessary. Assign players to
sessions by using a precise schedule, which must be strictly followed.
Educate players on how to work the comp system to their advantage
without costing the team money. Have players select casinos that they
consider their “home base,” where they wish to stay as a hotel guest.
Evaluate that casino’s game conditions and criteria for room comps.
Based on such evaluation, determine whether it is acceptable for the
player to play in that casino.
Poor Expense Management
Management of overhead is crucial to a team’s overall profit. It’s
essential to incorporate expenses into the projections of estimated profit
and determine any areas of cost-savings.
Players are excessively tipping dealers. In certain styles of play, tipping
may be necessary, whereas other times, there’s no reason to tip. Players
may tip a dealer in hopes that the gesture may lead to better game
conditions. In most cases, this is a mistake. Another reason a player may
tip is that it’s “good cover.” This is acceptable, providing the player is
clever enough to know when to tip and not do so too often.
Recommendation—Clearly outline that players using a certain style of
play are not permitted to tip, if this fits into the team objective. For the
style of play where tipping is necessary, provide an outline of how much
tipping is permissible.
Players incur excessive expenses. The biggest expense is probably
airfare. Players using a certain style of play may be eligible for
reimbursement of such airfare as a casino comp, but many others are not
and this can add significantly to expenses.
Recommendation—Minimize air travel by scheduling trips for an
extended period to get maximum number of hours of play for the trip.
Educate players on the various methods to obtain airfare reimbursement
as a casino comp. Establish a comp-sharing/pooling policy to ensure that
players with extra room or meal comps pass them on to those who come
up short. Centralize the booking of airfares to ensure the person making
the arrangements is capable of booking the best rates. Schedule playing
sessions where car-rental or taxicab expenses are minimal. Motivating
players to keep their costs down is probably most effective. This can be
done by subtracting travel expenses from their play EV.
Team incurs excessive costs in administering polygraph tests to players.
Whether it’s at the request of an investor, player, or at the sole discretion
of the manager, subjecting a player to a polygraph test is something that
may come up. Once this occurs, it can lead to finger-pointing and the
next thing you know every player on the team is taking a polygraph test
at roughly $300 a pop!
Recommendation—Use live-player monitoring instead of polygraphs.
This is far more useful where a player can be monitored for quality of
play in addition to honesty of reporting results. It’s much more cost
effective as well. You can have someone monitor a player at $50 an hour.
When players travel for overseas play, exchange rates in conversion of
currency prove costly for the team. At times players may quickly exchange
currency without knowledge of what might be considered a reasonable
exchange rate.
Recommendation—Minimize converting foreign currency, especially if
you plan to schedule play in the related country in the near future. Each
time you convert currency, you pay a premium. Ensure all players
engaging in international play are kept updated on daily exchange rates,
as well as preferred places to conduct any necessary conversions. If one
possesses the skill in gauging the currency market, entering into a
forward contract for the desired currency may be an option. Many
foreign casinos change their casino chips and local currency back at the
same rate charged against the original dollar buy-in. The length of time
they will hold your dollars varies from location to location, ranging from
the same day to weeks. Ask about their policies in advance.
Difference of Objectives
What’s the objective of the team? It’s common to have a team with a
blend of both part-time and full-time players. Some players are
dependent on winnings to support themselves, while others view any
winnings as supplemental income. While each player may have his own
individual purpose for playing on a team, it must be stressed and agreed
that the team objectives come first.
A player is becoming an “hours hog.” This is more common with full-
time players who depend on winnings as a primary source of income.
The player feels he should get in as many hours as possible to benefit
from a higher percentage of the players’ share of winnings. This is
dangerous, because such a player may be prone to playing in
substandard conditions, playing when tired, or overplaying a session.
Such actions can prove to be costly to a team.
Recommendations—Include guidelines for maximum number of hours
any player can operate during the course of one day; the number of
hours of play without a mandatory break; number of play days without a
day off. Establish up-front how many estimated hours of play each
player wishes to commit for play during the course of the bank.
A player wants the distribution of winnings more frequently. A player
dependent on such distribution of winnings as a source of income
experiences financial strains during losing periods. This can cause
difficulties all around, since the excess pressure on such a player can
have an effect on his performance.
Recommendations—Set up banks where the distribution dates are not
too far in advance. Work closely with players to ensure that the terms
enable everyone to meet his personal financial obligations. A team may
even work out a program where a player indicating a temporary
“hardship” can receive an advance from the overall team bank. The best
method is for the manager to discuss any concerns with each player prior
to formal commitments. A compensation scheme in which the player
receives a fixed percentage of the EV for each play made, combined with
a sliding percentage of the overall outcome (based on individual results),
is a possibility. The salary should be enough to continue to motivate the
player to play, while the percentage keeps his incentive for quality play
up.
A player joins the team with the personal objective of learning as much as
possible about team operations and blackjack in general. This is fine and
encouraged. However, players have to pay their dues first. Teams have
worked hard in devising winning methods and are smart not to give
away all the trade secrets to some newcomer who hasn’t proven himself.
A player whose main objective is to learn can prove to be disruptive to
the progress of a team; where the team is poised for action, he may be
more interested in sitting down to discuss theory.
Recommendations—Educating players is the key to a successful team.
However, it must be the manager who decides when a player is ready to
progress to the next plateau. Players should be informed that they won’t
receive instruction on a specific method simply out of curiosity. It’s in the
best interest for teams to instruct players on advanced methods only
when they’ll apply them while playing for the team. Upon joining the
team, manager and player should sit down and outline what’s required
of the player, as well as what he’d like to gain out of being on the team.
Both should agree on goals for the player to meet and a progression into
learning advanced methods, only after the player has proven himself.
Members of the team have differences in the level of risk they’re comfortable
with. Some players are more comfortable with playing at a higher level of
risk to create the opportunity to earn more money faster. Others might
prefer a more conservative approach, sacrificing the higher earning
opportunity for a lower risk factor. It’s important for all members on the
team to be in agreement on the way the bet levels are established with
respect to earnings and risk.
 Recommendations—Unfortunately, there’s little room for compromise
here. If players have different objectives, someone will be unhappy. If a
player is willing to accept a higher risk level in an attempt to increase
potential earnings, he’ll become impatient if the others decide to play at a
more conservative level. A more conservative player will be nervous
playing to a higher risk level. In both cases, it’s probably best that a
player not comfortable with the established levels of play not participate.
Lack of Motivation
The team is experiencing a negative swing and players lack the
motivation to get out and play. This is a most understandable cause for
bringing down the spirits of team members. Everyone goes out there and
plays his heart out for hours and hours, with the team bank ending up in
the red. When players on a team lose their motivation to play, others may
also adopt the attitude of “why bother?”
Recommendations—The team manager should possess strong
motivational skills. If such skills are lacking, numerous books,
audiotapes, videotapes, and seminars can provide the tools to develop
them. Take the time to ensure that all players are educated as to the
inherent fluctuations of the game. Prepare everyone for such swings.
When a player loses motivation, arrange for him to go out and partner
with a player who possesses an optimistic view of things. The most
important thing for a team manager is no matter how rough the waters
get, never panic.
Inefficient Means of Transferring Cash
When a team grows in size, so does the need for moving money
among players. If players are in action in different parts of the country or
world, this can get tricky. The last thing you want to happen is to have a
player running short of team bankroll during a trip.
Recommendations—Use the proper tools (e.g., Blackjack Risk Manager
2002 software) to determine how much bankroll each player will require,
then provide an extra cushion. Make it policy that each player in action
report results regularly. Maintain a listing of banks and Western Union
offices or similar places where an individual can receive a cash wire
transfer. Find out in advance all related fees, procedures, and hours of
operation. Develop relationships with other teams and players so that
you can perform virtual transfers around the world.
33
Outline for a Team Manual

1. CONFIDENTIAL NATURE OF CONTENTS

If you’re sensitive to a high level of confidentiality, this should be the
first thing mentioned.
Suggested Wording: This manual is a confidential document and may
not be shown to anyone else. It should be kept in a safe place at all times.
Do not bring it on team trips. The manual is team property and subject to
return on demand. No material in part or whole may be reproduced.
2. ESTABLISHMENT AND IMPLEMENTATION OF TEAM POLICIES
Responsibilities of each player.
What happens if a policy needs to be changed? Is it a unilateral
decision or decision by vote?
There should be a method in place for distributing funds at any given
point, should a player or investor need or wish to withdraw.
3. MANAGER’S ROLE
Duties and responsibilities need to be outlined (e.g., scheduling,
bookkeeping, testing, making travel arrangements for players).
What is the manager’s salary? Is it a percentage of winnings or a flat
fee?
What happens if the team manager resigns? Can the team manager be
dismissed by a vote of others?
4. MEMBERSHIP
How are players selected?
Are references required?
Are credit checks, background checks, and/or polygraph tests
performed?
Are there a minimum number of hours a player must commit to play?
Penalties for not meeting this criterion?
Will investments be restricted to players only or will non-playing
investors be permitted to participate?
Will all players be required to invest a minimum amount?
What could lead to suspension/dismissal of a player? Are warnings
given? If so, how many?
Are performance reviews conducted?
5. TESTING
Are all players required to play the same count system?
Is there a minimum number of play indices required?
Are players required to be able to play all types of games (single-
deck, multi-deck)?
Are written tests going to be given for basic strategy? Other skills?
General knowledge?
Outline the specific testing routine, grading system, and what is
considered passing.
If a candidate fails a test, is there a form of re-test?
Will a candidate be interviewed and accepted by the team manager
only, or may other players vote?
Will testing be performed on an ongoing basis? Scheduled or surprise
testing? How often?
If the team will be using signals as part of its play, how will this be
tested?
Will live play observation be conducted of a candidate? Is there a
rating sheet to grade the candidate?
The following is a sample live-play evaluation form for a candidate:
Candidate Live-Play Evaluation Form
Instructions: Based on your observation of candidate’s live play,
indicate your score on each category based on the following point
system: 1 = Hopeless
2 = Needs Work
3 = Average
4 = Above Average
5 = Excellent
Dependability: Candidate is punctual. Shows up when he/she commits
to.
Starts and ends session at times committed.
Score: _________ Comments:
Appearance: Candidate looks/dresses in accordance with stakes
played and casino/town playing in.
Score: _________ Comments:
Game Selection: Candidate uses time upon arrival at casino to quickly
but effectively evaluate game situation and makes a competent choice
of game to play or determines conditions are unplayable and does not
sit down to play.
Score: _________ Comments:
Technical Proficiency: Candidate is accurate during live play. If any
decisions are questionable, please note them in comments section.
After discussion with candidate, it may be determined that such plays
were justified.
Score: _________ Comments:
Interactions at Table: Candidate is taking proper measures not to
look/act like a typical counter.
Indicate Yes/No on the following observations:
Candidate orders a beverage of some sort
Candidate talks to dealer, pit, and other players Candidate doesn’t
wait until last minute to place bet Score: _________ Comments:
Awareness: Candidate identifies any close scrutiny and takes
appropriate measures. Candidate is aware of countermeasures
employed by pit/dealer and reacts accordingly.
Score: _________ Comments:
Follows Game Plan: Candidate’s live play is in accordance with what’s
outlined in the team game plan.
Score: _________ Comments:
The following is a sample “system-and-game-plan” form that a
candidate may complete: System-and-Game-Plan Form
Count System Point Values:
2=
3=
4=
5=
6=
7=
8=
9=
T=
A=
If Using True Count Conversion, You Divide by Full Decks: ____ 1/2
Decks: ____ Other: ____.
If Using Ace Side Count, Value Assigned to Ace Is: _____.
List Play Variations Used for Game Played:
Dealer Shows: Your Hand: At Count of: Variation Is: Simulation
Results (to be completed by Evaluator): 6. PROCEDURES FOR ACTUAL
TEAM PLAY
Is team play authorized only when a group of players is available for
a “group trip”?
Are players permitted to play without other teammates present? If so,
how much advance notice is the player required to give the manager?
How is team cash passed from player to player?
 How often is a player required to report results?
Are casinos to play determined by a manager in a schedule or does
the player select?
What is considered a session bankroll?
Is there a certain loss amount where a player is required to halt play
and report in?
Is there a minimum/maximum amount of cash a player is permitted
to carry?
What is the policy on use of “cover” for bets and plays?
What should a player do in the event of a barring?
Define rules on communicating or not communicating with
teammates in casinos.
Is there a maximum number of hours a player is permitted to play
each day?
Is there a maximum number of hours a player is permitted to play
without a break?
Is there a maximum number of days a player is permitted to play
without a day off?
What is team policy on alcohol consumption?
Outline policy on cashing or not cashing out chips.
Is there a standard form for reporting, or can a player use his own?
The following is a sample report form:
Player’s Trip Report

7. VARIOUS TACTICS THAT MAY BE APPLIED

Note: This area is subject to preferences based on the knowledge and
experience of team management. Since tactics used by many teams and
individuals are not made public, this will be respected.
GAME SELECTION
What criteria determine a playable game?
Is there a penetration point defined as acceptable vs. unacceptable?
Is there a limit of number of players or spots being played at a table to
consider a game playable?
 Are teammates permitted to play together at the same table? Same
casino at the same time?
If a player is authorized to play an acceptable game at lower than the
agreed-upon bet levels, for whatever reason, how will such player be
compensated?
MONEY MANAGEMENT AND BETTING
Is the betting scheme denominated in dollars or units?
If units, how is the unit size determined?
Will the unit size change? If so, how often?
How will overall risk of ruin be determined?
How often will bet levels be reconfigured?
How will information be most effectively communicated to players
with respect to bet-level changes?
COMPS
Is player allowed to keep his own comps or must he surrender them
to the team for allocation?
Are players permitted to eat together?
Is there a policy prohibiting players from overplaying a casino in an
attempt to qualify for a certain comp?
How are cashback vouchers handled? Team money or player’s own?
If a player receives an invitation to a free tournament, does he/she
play for team or self?
If player receives airfare reimbursement, who keeps the hard cash?
If a player receives special-event tickets and can sell them at a profit,
who is entitled to the cash?
Are players required to accept teammates as roommate(s), as a
method to share comped rooms?
TIPPING
Are players allowed to tip dealer?
Is there a limit on how much a player may tip dealer?
Are cocktail waitress, valet parking, and other employee tips
considered a team or a player expense?
Outline a precise policy of tipping practices.
Outline various methods and tricks where tipping may be used as a
tactic during play.
Keep records of all tips in session reports.
CASHING OUT
Outline procedure for players to verify cashouts before leaving
cashier’s window.
Stress that players should convert all smaller denomination bills into
100s.
Ensure players are aware of reporting requirements for specific
cashout amounts and that players comply with such regulations to avoid
breaking any laws.
SIGNALS
If signals are going to be used, outline them.
How often will signals be changed?
Outline methods to ensure signals are subtle.
8. EXPENSES
Is player responsible for traveling expenses (air, hotel, and car
rentals)?
What are considered team expenses?
How and when will a player be reimbursed for expenses incurred?
Are receipts required for everything or only above certain amounts?
Are room comps pooled among players?
The following is an example of some expenses a team may incur:
Overnight courier services, bank fees to obtain cashier’s checks, money
orders, wiring of funds or travelers’ checks to facilitate transferring
monies for team purposes.
Polygraph testing.
Employing persons to monitor players in action.
Opening checking accounts and safe-deposit rentals as deemed
necessary.
Phone calls.
Recruiting new players.
Recruiting spotters and/or BPs.
9. SAFETY AND SECURITY
Where will team funds be secured?
 Who will have access to these funds?
Will funds be secured in a manner in which no one person has sole
access?
How often will audits be conducted?
Will verifications of all transfers be maintained in the form of signed
receipts?
What requirements do individual players comply with in securing
team cash held?
What happens if a player loses team cash or is robbed?
Outline procedures players should follow when cashing out large
amounts at cashier cage.
Outline procedures players should follow when leaving a casino to
ensure they are not being followed.
What will prompt a player to be required to submit to polygraph
testing?
Outline policies for keeping team paperwork outside of hotel rooms.
Outline policies for not communicating via hotel room phones.
Outline policies for using wireless phones in and around casinos in a
manner in which the phone number is not displayed for surveillance
cameras to read.
Outline policies for not discussing team matters outside of the team.
Outline policies for what information, in written form, should or
should not be carried on a player’s person.
Outline proper procedures (within the letter of the law) a player
should follow if an attempt is made by a casino employee to detain the
player.
10. DISTRIBUTION OF WINNINGS
How and when will winnings be distributed? A set date? A set
monetary goal? A set number of hours played in total?
Are expenses deducted from the gross win?
Is manager’s commission deducted before or after expenses?
What is the percentage paid to investors?
How are players compensated for play? Based on hours played?
Based on amount won? A combination of both?
 Are there any penalties applied for any reason?
Who is responsible for taxes? How is this provided for in the scheme
of things?
11. QUALITY CONTROL
How are players being monitored?
How are results being documented and evaluated?
Are players and/or investors receiving periodic reports? If so, how
often? Will additional training and development be provided?
Monitoring Performance
Through the use of spreadsheet programs, such as Lotus 123 and
Excel, you have the ability to customize charts and graphs, which can
illustrate various factors, while reviewing a player’s overall performance.
Such use can be applied based on the desired results. Below is an
example of a report generated from an Excel spreadsheet, converted into
graph form, to illustrate the difference in swings two players experience
and how each reacts to a big losing session.
The following graphs depict the results of two different players
throughout the course of 12 play sessions. For the purpose of effect, both
players experienced identical results throughout the first six sessions.
The difference in results is evident following session #6, which is where
both players experienced their biggest losing session. Up until that point,
both players appeared to be experiencing swings inherent in proper play.
However, while Player #1 continued to experience such swings
following the session #6 loss, Player #2 appears to have “tightened up”
on his play. This is evident in looking at the “flat” line of win/loss of the
last six sessions of Player #2. Looking at this, one may deduce that Player
#2 could very well have been spooked by the large loss experienced in
session #6 and became reluctant to place the proper big bets when the
situation called for it.
34
Down Memory Lane

This chapter is dedicated to the five original members of the last team
on which I formally acted as a manager. The six of us have been together
in this journey for three years and although we didn’t reach our ultimate
goals, the early stages of our efforts were successful. This is a reflection
on our very first play together, way back when.
We were all ready to combine our efforts as a team. The plan was to
meet in Las Vegas and play over a five-day period. Brett and Leon would
arrive in town first on Tuesday. Patrick and I would arrive on
Wednesday. Harry was coming into town on Thursday, and Ursula was
getting in on Friday morning. At this point, not every member of the
group had met one another. Brett and I had met each of the others. Harry
met everyone except for Leon and Ursula. Patrick never met Ursula or
Leon.
To avoid complications, I created a schedule of casinos for each
player, and times of play. This would avoid having any two players in
the same place at the same time.
Patrick and I ended up on the same flight Wednesday evening. I
managed to get an upgrade into first class, while Patrick was in coach.
Since the seat next to me was empty, Patrick cruised over, only to have
the flight attendant inform him that he couldn’t sit there. Here’s poor
Patrick getting backed off before the plane even lands!
The setup we decided on was for each player to play solo in
accordance with a schedule of casinos and times of play. A player would
finish a session in a given casino as a teammate was ready to commence
play in that same casino. This arrangement facilitated exchange of
information, in addition to any necessary cash transfers.
I started play Thursday morning with a one-hour session, losing a
session bankroll. At the end of my session, I saw Leon entering the casino
right on schedule. He gave me a signal to meet him outside. He informed
me that he lost most of his allotted team bankroll the day before and
needed more cash. I gave him one session bankroll to play with, along
with a change in the schedule, which enabled him to meet up with
Patrick in hopes of getting some additional cash if necessary. I was about
to leave when Leon gave me some more bad news. Brett also had a losing
day and was in need of more cash. On that note, I drove to the hotel
where Brett was staying to give him some cash. Not a good start for this
new team: three of us losing and Patrick’s results unknown.
I played until our first scheduled meeting, but my net result didn’t
improve. Patrick was winning, but Brett, Leon, and I showed negative
results that put us at a 25% loss of our initial bank. The good news was
that we found out about a promotion being offered by a casino. If you
had a special coupon, you received a two-to-one payoff for a natural. The
restriction was that a player could use only one coupon per day. Of
course, we found ways to get around that and ended up having a little
contest among ourselves to see who could get away with using the most
coupons. I slipped in six during one shift. I also used my charm to get a
huge stack of the coupons from the nice lady giving them out and I
distributed them to my teammates. I still lost!
My next task was to pick up Harry and his wife, Jeanette, at the
airport. Harry and I got to know each other over the six months prior to
this trip, and when he saw my smile as he got off the plane, his first
words were, “I hope that’s a happy smile.” He knew it wasn’t.
The following morning, my losing streak continued and our
afternoon meeting revealed that out of the five of us present, Patrick was
the only one with positive numbers. Ursula walked into the meeting
immediately after arriving in town to find the team down 50% of the
starting bank. I could see the questionable look on her face, but she
maintained a positive attitude. This was her first-ever visit to Las Vegas,
let alone playing on a count team. After making a few revisions, we
continued with the structured schedule, a method that led Leon to dub
the structure affectionately as “Rick’s Sweat Shop.”
After an initial losing session the next morning, I finally caught fire
and put together a string of winning sessions. By the end of the evening,
my net loss as of the previous day was cut in half. At the evening
meeting, the others also reported winning numbers that put us close to
even. My “sweat-shop” schedule was working well; when players met
up entering/exiting a casino, knowledge of a teammate’s winning
session created motivation all around.
The next day, I was still on a roll. All my sessions ended in wins,
which put my personal net result at a nice win. At our late-afternoon
meeting, the others also reported some nice wins, which put us ahead for
the trip. We decided to have each player go out to play in a casino of
his/her own choice for one more session before our final meeting, where
we would wrap things up.
I went to play at my “home-base” casino and was having a nice
session when I noticed a floorperson whispering to the shift manager and
motioning two tables away from me. I discreetly looked over there and
noticed Ursula playing at that table. At first I was thinking how we
should have informed each other of what casino we would each go to, to
avoid having more than one player in the same place. At the same time, I
noticed another floorperson starting to watch me a bit too closely for
comfort. I left the table and went to the restroom to determine what to do
about alerting Ursula. After arriving at the table, I could see the shift
manager watching Ursula from a distance. Ursula seemed a bit too
focused on the cards and oblivious to what was really happening. I
watched as she jumped her bet and the shift manager walked up to the
table, picked up the discards, and started to flip through them. I
immediately gave the “heat signal” to Ursula, but she didn’t seem to
catch on. Since I was concerned about the heat I was getting earlier, I
decided it was best to leave there and see if I could locate a teammate to
return and attempt to warn Ursula.
I walked across the street to a casino where I suspected Patrick would
be and, after spotting him, I signaled him to follow me outside. Once
outside, I quickly blurted out, “You’ve got to get across the street and get
Ursula out of there.” Patrick responded, “Why?” I then informed him:
“She jumped her bet and the shift manager went through the discards. I
gave her the heat signal, but she didn’t catch it, and I was worried about
getting heat myself.” On that note, Patrick said, “Okay,” then proceeded
to run across a major thoroughfare, dodging traffic, in an effort to save a
fellow teammate. When he returned, he told me it was too late, that she
had been backed off from play. Afterwards, I spent an hour talking with
Ursula and realized that she wasn’t really in tune with the warning signs.
I was at fault for taking it for granted that she was. She handled the
situation well and learned from the experience. Subsequently, I believe
this episode made her a stronger player.
Our final meeting was a happy occasion, as we recovered from being
50% down of our initial bank to ending up with a 50% net win.
 The
End Zone
35

Assuming the Role of a High-Stakes

Player
When playing for high stakes, it’s of the utmost importance that you
look and act the role of a player who can afford to gamble with the sums
of money that you’ll be putting out. Don’t think you have to completely
change your existing image; from experience, doing so comes across as
forcing an act or look, so it appears unnatural. What we want to do is
identify the qualities of your existing look, attire, and personality that can
be made prominent to present the image of a high roller. Once these
factors are identified, we accessorize them accordingly to create a sellable
product: you as a high roller. Below is an outline detailing the components
of what it takes to sell yourself as a high-stakes player.
Attitude
Keeping in mind that the typical card counter is in constant fear of
being “made,” it’s imperative that you get this “fear factor” out of your
head. Stay alert and aware of your surroundings, but approach the game
with the attitude that you are in control. You are the customer. As you enter
a game, the casino staff views you as a “premium client.” Therefore, it’s
crucial that your persona exude the fact that you are. Players in this
category are entitled to a certain level of service, and you must subtly
convey that you’re aware of this.
In this role, you’re someone who has money. Money equals
confidence. Every move you make, every statement you utter, every
recommendation you offer must be made with confidence. If your
appearance is refined, when you ask for something, do so firmly,
politely, but with confidence that your request will be honored. Structure
your requests in a manner that demonstrates that you know what you’re
entitled to and are not asking for anything too out of line. If you’re
presenting yourself as a celebrity type, a shady character, or an
obnoxious foreigner, you may be able to get away with a highly
aggressive attitude.
Example—Don’t ask, “Could I get a dinner comp at …?”
Do ask (refined), “Could you arrange dinner for 7 p.m. at…, if
available?”
Do ask (aggressive): “We’re ready for dinner. I’d appreciate it if you
would call (name of maitre d’) up at … and take care of it for us.”
See the difference? Rather than asking for something in a manner
where you’re indicating you’re unaware that it will be comped, you’re
confidently “helping” the employee provide you with what you want.
Note: Avoid direct use of the word “comp” when dealing with casino
employees. It comes across as bush-league.
Example—Don’t ask, “Can I get a comp for …”
Do ask: “Can you arrange … for me.”
You want to give the impression that the level of service extended by
a given casino is of more importance to you than their actual comp
program.
Homework: Names of employees, chain-of-command, restaurant
employee names, restaurant names, menu items, wines, sport games
currently being played, betting lines.
Preparation, Homework, and Knowledge
The casinos try to find out as much about you as possible. It’s your
goal to take control of this situation in a twofold manner.
If you’re presenting yourself as a refined gentleman or lady,
anticipate potential questions and offer information about yourself that
you’ve prepared in advance. You need to live the role that you’re
assuming and present yourself in a believable manner. Develop your
own profile and have it memorized to the finest detail. While most casino
employees in the know will not come across as too intrusive, they’ll still
be curious and will try to gather information about you. Make it easy for
them on your own terms. During your interactions, determine what the
individual may be fishing for and give it up on your own terms. Throw
them a bone!
Develop a complete knowledge of the names of the key employees
with whom you’ll be dealing, as well as the top executives in the casino.
Do your homework and learn as much about these folks as possible. If
you learn of a particular interest of a top person, figure a way you can
use this to your advantage.
Example—The casino manager collects baseball memorabilia.
Well, you know what to do from there!
The goal here is to endear yourself to people at the highest level, so
it’s established on the casino floor and elsewhere that you are in with the
big boys. It’s also a good idea to learn the names of restaurant managers,
maitre d’s, and other restaurant employees. This is also true for
employees of other hotel/casino services of which you might avail
yourself (limo drivers, concierge, health club, etc.).
Advance knowledge of the casino’s procedure on obtaining
identification for a player’s card is extremely valuable. Since chances are
you’ll be playing for stakes that will prompt CTR reporting to the U.S.
Department of Treasury, you’ll need to use a legal name, along with
valid government form of identification. Have all this in order before you
start playing. If a pit clerk gets your identification for this purpose, you
run the risk of having a photocopy being made, along with all your
personal data and photograph. You may try to have this information
arranged by a clerk at the player’s club desk, who might not make such a
photocopy. If you do this on a trip before you actually play, call a host
prior to your next trip to ensure that all the required information is in
their database. The bottom line is the casino requires certain information,
and you know what that information is. Give them what they need and
nothing more. Do it in advance and ensure they have everything they
need before you play. You take control of the information provided under your
terms.
Eye Contact
Contrary to popular belief, this eye-contact phenomenon is overrated.
I’m not saying that it doesn’t work, but it’s not something you can rely
on. Hence, a clever individual can use such eye contact to generate false
reads. There are dozens of reads on what so-called experts determine
certain glances mean, but they’re not always accurate. Your goal is to
limit the types of eye contact you project, creating minimal variations
and confusing those who rely on eye contact to attempt to read you.
Practice your eye-contact techniques in a mirror, on video, and with
friends. Evaluate yourself and fine-tune things to achieve the desired
results. Here are some methods of eye contact that minimize the ability
for others to read you.
Hard or Piercing Eye Contact
When you’re having a conversation with someone important, yet you
want to create an impression of “power,” look hard and directly into the
other person’s eyes without looking elsewhere. Wait for the other person
to shift eye contact first, but pause for a second or two before making
your own shift. Your only shift should be a total exit from the
conversation. When you’re playing and such a person starts a
conversation with you, you can stop your play and maintain the
conversation. If this is a casino employee (most likely), he or she should
realize that it’s not good for the casino’s bottom line to keep you away
from wagering and will gracefully say, “Excuse me” and leave.
Soft Direct Eye Contact
When you’re having a conversation with someone important or
whom you want to make feel important, look directly into his or her eyes
with a gentle ever-so-subtle movement of your eyes. Use slight head
nods, coupled with smiles, when the person states something deemed to
be of significance. By using this technique, you’re yielding power to the
other person without stepping down from your own. You’re
acknowledging, while putting the person at ease with you. Here, too,
wait for the other to shift eye contact first, but create the exit as a mutual
decision. You also want to stop your play and focus when the person
starts a conversation with you.
No Eye Contact
This can be considered rude, dismissive, aloof, or arrogant, among
other things. The purpose here is not to even acknowledge the other
person’s existence. You’re too busy to be bothered. When you’re playing
for high stakes, other players may try to get friendly with you (for a
variety of reasons), but you truly don’t want to have anything to do with
them, because they’re taking you away from your focus. When someone
approaches your table, don’t even look up. If a player makes a comment
or asks a question not specifically directed to you, act as though you
didn’t hear it. If you’re asked a direct question, pause for a few seconds
(this is annoying to people), then give a direct, short, to-the-point answer
or an aloof response in a subtly dismissive manner, without making any
eye contact. The trick here is to do this without appearing rude.
Sunglasses
Unless you have the rock-star or gangster thing going, wearing
sunglasses indoors is tricky to pull off. These eye-contact “experts” read
sunglasses as hiding something. Knowing that, you can actually use
them to your advantage. If you appear at a table sporting shades, you’re
giving off a suspicious appearance. When someone appears to speak to
you, dramatically remove the shades and shift into hard or piercing eye
contact method #1 or #2 (#1 works best for this purpose). What you
accomplish here is initially baiting people into thinking one thing, then
completely throwing them off scent, where they’re now questioning their
ability to read you.
Attire
When betting large sums of money, you must dress in a manner that’s
representative of someone who can afford to: designer shirts, slacks, and
belt for starters. Expensive shoes are essential, as is an expensive watch.
Your jewelry should complement the image you’re trying to create. If
you want the flashy look, pile on the gold chains and rings. If you’re after
a quiet elegant look, a thinner watch (expensive, but not a huge Rolex)
would be appropriate.
Be familiar with the big designer names. When dealing with style,
there are different plateaus. First, you have the trends that mainstream
society gets sucked into. You can jump on the bandwagon, purchase all
the popular designer names that everyone else is wearing, and you’ll
certainly fit right in. You can also set your sights on a higher plateau by
avoiding the trendy names and seeking out brands that are a notch
above, which the mainstream has not yet caught up to. These brands
don’t advertise heavily, but you’ll find celebrities wearing them. For
example, where the mainstream embraces Armani, Gucci, and Prada,
you look at other European labels or go the custom-tailored route. You
can get away without paying retail. Check out sample sales and outlet
centers for some great bargains.
In respect to watches, while the mainstream views Rolex as the watch,
you may want to look for some other brands and join the major leagues.
Here, you don’t have to pay top dollar. Shop around for a pre-owned
watch from a reputable dealer or check out some auctions. Also keep in
mind that the typical Rolex is thick and bulky. If you have a small wrist,
it won’t look good on you.
Appearance
Your overall appearance should say “money.” You’re someone who
has it and doesn’t worry about spending it. Here are some additional
points to add to the total package:
Your fingernails should be clean and presentable. A manicure just
prior to a trip is essential and quite inexpensive.
A suntan delivers the message that you’re fun-loving. You can always
take in a few sessions at a tanning salon a week or two prior to a trip.
Pay attention to your posture. Stand erect when you’re walking.
Avoid slumping over at the tables.
When walking in the casino, never look as though you’re rushing to
get somewhere. Walk in a slow, deliberate, or carefree manner,
depending on the message you’re trying to convey.
Don’t always appear to be alone. Have people with you. You want to
create the appearance that you’re with family or friends to have a good
time.
Purpose
Why are you here? You have to create an impression as to your
reason for being here. Are you on business? If so, what business brings
you here? Be prepared to discuss it with knowledge and enthusiasm if
you’re questioned. You also may want to take a proactive approach and
volunteer some information about your business that may confuse or
bore the average layperson. Doing so discourages someone to discuss it
with you further. You also want to convey the message that you’re here
to have fun. You enjoy gambling and other things, such as shows, golf,
shopping, etc.
Summary
Some blackjack books discuss the “act” element of the play. Over the
years, many players have attempted to put on such acts. Most of these
players eventual fail in their acting abilities. In order to be successful, you
need to actually live your act and believe it yourself. If you’re used to
eating at home or at coffee shops, take an evening out at a fine gourmet
restaurant. Get accustomed to the atmosphere. Take a walk in some of
the finer clothing and jewelry stores (you don’t need to actually make a
purchase) to get a feel for the style of people who frequent such places.
Remember, if you look back on some of the best film performances,
you’ll see that the acting appears to be believable. This is precisely what
you’re looking to accomplish. Live your act!
 36
Playing Blackjack as a Part-Time
Professional
Periodically, I encounter players who consider quitting their jobs to
play blackjack full-time. When asked my opinion, I normally state that
there are several factors to look at before deciding to take the plunge into
blackjack as career.
Family
If you have a spouse and/or children whom your reliable steady
income is essential to support, you should forget about full-time
blackjack.
Company Benefits
If your current occupation offers health, retirement, life insurance,
and other benefits that you consider important, you’ll need to consider
the increased cost of these once you leave your job.
Back-Up Plan
Is your current profession one that enables you to re-enter the
workforce after a year or more of absence? This is something you must
consider if playing full-time blackjack doesn’t work out for any reason.
Bankroll
Do you really have enough savings to carry you through the negative
swings that occur?
Flexibility
Do you have the ability to move from town to town on short notice?
A full-time blackjack player may find his action unwelcome in a given
town and need to move quickly.
Emotion
Do you think you can handle the emotional ups and downs of the
game? If you ask any full-time player, you’ll hear of some low points
worth considering.
On the last day of a playing trip to Las Vegas some years back, I was
having dinner with a friend who lives there and plays full-time. This was
the end of a losing trip for me and I was singing the blues. I asked my
friend what he does when he experiences such losses. He pointed
something out that hit the nail right on the head. As a full-timer, he’s out
there on a regular basis and experiences such swings more frequently.
However, when he has a losing day, he knows he’ll be back out there
playing the next day. As a part-time player, when I experience a losing
trip, I may not be back out playing for another month or more. The losses
linger longer since I’m playing less frequently. Once it clicked, I adjusted
my thinking to accept this concept.

Part-Time
The above are just some of the factors one needs to consider before
playing blackjack on a full-time basis. I suspect that most readers will
look at these factors and decide, “It’s not for me.” Join the club. That’s
what I’ve always said when the thought has crossed my mind. But fear
not! If you enjoy playing as I do and want a potential source of
supplemental income, consider playing blackjack as a part-time
professional.
Here are some tips on how to set up shop in your side-profession.
Time Available
After determining how much paid time off your full-time job allows,
you’ll want to decide how much of it you wish to devote to blackjack
play. Let’s first look at a player living in Southern California, working at
a job that provides Saturday and Sunday off. This player can hop in a car
on Friday afternoon and drive four to five hours on average to Las Vegas
for the weekend. If you happen to be traveling solo, take a look at current
airfares and you could find round-trip flights for less than $100. If you’re
expense conscious, consider the number of passengers, then calculate the
cost of travel by car as compared to airfare, airport parking, and ground
transportation while in Las Vegas. If your bankroll justifies playing at a
level that qualifies for airfare reimbursement (covered later) from a
casino, then by all means fly in. This strategy applies to similar
geographic situations worldwide.
 If you’re not fortunate enough to live within striking distance of a
casino area for an easy weekend trip, the next consideration is an
extended holiday weekend. Let’s say you live in Baltimore, Maryland,
and wish to take a trip to Las Vegas. Your job gives you Labor Day
Monday off. A good strategy is to take the Friday before as a vacation
day. Pack a bag, bring it to work on Thursday, head right to the airport
after work, and you’ll be in Las Vegas Thursday night for a four-night
stay, catching a return flight home on Monday afternoon. If you’re
blessed with ultra-stamina, go ahead a take a red-eye flight back home,
departing Las Vegas around midnight. This gets you back around 8 a.m.
Tuesday morning and you can head to work straight from the airport.
I’ve done this, but it’s been many years since I’ve had the stamina to pull
it off.
If the nature of your work entails business travel, you can get
creative. Let’s say you need to schedule a business trip to Los Angeles.
Set it up so that the business trip includes a Friday or Monday. If you
need to spend two days in Los Angeles, book your flight for a
Wednesday night departure and Sunday afternoon return. You’ve now
created a built-in weekend in Las Vegas. San Francisco? How does a
weekend in Reno/Lake Tahoe sound?
I caution you not to fall into the trap of devoting all your valuable
vacation time solely to blackjack play. Even as a part-time player, this can
lead to burnout. We all need a balanced lifestyle and that includes good
old rest and relaxation. We’re fortunate that some casino towns offer
activities away from the gaming tables, providing us with opportunities
to combine a vacation with blackjack. If you enjoy winter sports, Lake
Tahoe offers some great skiing and enough casinos to keep your chips
moving. If you fancy water sports, a trip to the Caribbean may be in
order. Diving in the day, blackjack at night. Golf? That’s easy. Las Vegas,
for one, offers dozens of courses, in addition to dozens more activities to
choose from.
When combining vacation and blackjack play, structure your day to
mix up your play and other activities.
Low-Stakes Play
 If you’re betting $5 chips, you want to play casinos that offer the
lowest-minimum tables, so your bet scheme can fit in as your bankroll
permits. If your bet scheme calls for a 1-6 spread and your bankroll
permits a top bet of $60, look for a table minimum no higher than $10.
You want to try for some of the limited comps available to players at
this level. Beverages are free while you’re playing; you need only to tip
the server. When you’re ready to finish playing, wait until a point where
you have a larger bet up, call over a floorperson, and ask for a buffet
comp. If you’re looking for a discount on a room, you’ll most likely score
a room at the “casino rate,” which provides for a nice discount. Always
check out funbooks where they’re offered. You may find some free offers
for shows, rooms, meals, and even free cash.
If you plan on playing at this level for a while, it’s a good idea to get
rated. When you’re playing for low stakes, most casinos won’t view you
as a threat. If your goal is to elevate your level of play, be careful how
much information you give about yourself.
Moderate-Stakes Play
If you’re betting $25 chips, you have more flexibility. You can be more
selective in where to play. Since you can play at $25-minimum tables,
you have a better chance of finding the less crowded conditions
necessary to increase your hourly earning potential.
You qualify for better comps at this level. In addition to low-stakes
comps, you can also go for meals at the coffee shop, where someone will
actually serve you. Depending on the casino, you have the potential of
scoring a free room. To maximize your comp potential, I recommend
reading three books, all published by Huntington Press: Comp City by
Max Rubin, and The Frugal Gambler and More Frugal Gambling by Jean
Scott. If you know how to work the system, you should never have to
pay for a hotel room or a meal when playing at a casino.
High-Stakes Play
If you’re betting $100 chips, you’re in a very strong position to get the
most of out your play. First, you have excellent opportunities to play in
non-crowded conditions. This hopefully results in your playing more
hands at an advantage, giving an attractive earning potential. However,
playing at this level increases your exposure to scrutiny by casino
personnel. To avoid being detected as a skilled player, you’ll need to be
aware of the casino procedures and apply some camouflage techniques
to keep a step ahead of them. As a part-time player, you have the ability
to do what I call “play the circuit.” This entails spreading out your action
among several casinos that offer quality games. If you do this, you
minimize your exposure in any one casino, thus minimizing the chances
that you will be detected as a skilled player.
You create your circuit by listing all the casinos you elect to play in.
Let’s say you have six casinos on your list. Considering that the majority
of casinos have three different shifts during the business day, you have
18 shifts on your circuit. Remember that you may need a home-base
casino to score your room comp. If your instincts are good and you have
a good comfort level with a specific casino, consider that as your home
base, which you can give enough action to satisfy the level of comps you
desire, while minimizing detection. You can continue to test the waters
with other casinos, to establish a home base for future trips.
Play at this level entitles you to premium comps. Your goal here is to
shoot for “RFB plus airfare.” You want the casino to comp your room (R),
all meals (F), and beverages (B), referred to as RFB (an RFB player in
most cases qualifies for comp show tickets as well). In addition to RFB,
you want the casino to reimburse you for your airline ticket(s). Comp City
(a must-read for those playing at this level) outlines excellent strategies
for securing airfare reimbursement.
If you have the bankroll to play at this level, you have the ability to
create an expense-paid vacation, while combining it with part-time
advantage play in a casino.
For a full-time player, blackjack is a main source of income. As a part-
time player, you view any gambling earnings as supplementary income.
You have a full-time job outside of advantage play, which provides you
with a sense of credibility in the minds of casino personnel. You’re their
customer and you’re entitled to a level of service commensurate with
your action. Remember, you’re the customer!
Bankroll Considerations
 Several books provide information on how to determine your
bankroll and bet levels, with mathematics ranging from simple to
complex (at the very least, it’s a good idea to go back to Chapter 12 of
this book and reread the section on Money Management). For the
foundation of your thinking, there’s no magic in determining what your
bankroll should be. I trust the following formula is not too complicated:
Funds you can afford to lose = your bankroll. Period.
Information Pipeline
Since your time for play is limited, too much time spent scouting cuts
into your earning potential. Knowledge of quality games is essential;
therefore you’re best served by gathering information before your trip. In
addition to exchanging information with other players in a cooperative
manner, you can subscribe to some sources that specialize in providing
game conditions. If you have Internet access and go to trackjack.com,
you’ll find information on games offered, which is updated regularly. If
you want information about casino offers, and general comp
information, check out the Las Vegas Advisor (and LasVegasAdvisor.com),
where your subscription includes valuable coupon books, along with
invaluable guidance.
Taxes
Don’t forget to keep accurate records of your wins and losses. You’re
required by the government to report this information on your income
tax return.
Summary
If you have a traditional full-time career, you can play blackjack as a
part-time professional to provide a source of supplementary income. In
most cases, your earning potential won’t be that of a full-timer playing at
a similar level, but there are benefits and there is potential.
37
Resources and Final Notes

Recommended Books Las Vegas Blackjack Diary Author Stuart

Perry took a bankroll of $20,000 and went off to Las Vegas for
two months to play full-time blackjack. This book is a first, where
Stuart reports, in detail, every session he played during his two
months. To get a bird’s-eye view of life as a full-time blackjack
player, read this book.
Comp City
A most informative and entertaining book by Max Rubin. A former
pit boss, Max delves into how casinos’ comp systems work. A master of
many moves, Max divulges tricks of the trade and tells how to get the
most out of the system.
Whale Hunt in the Desert
The morning Blackjack Blueprint was scheduled to go to press, I
finished reading Deke Castleman’s superb book about the marketing
secrets of superhost, Steve Cyr. I had to stop the presses to add this
recommendation. Chapter 35 of this book provides the “tip of the
iceberg” about high-limit players. If you’re looking for a complete text of
how high-limit players live, breathe, eat, and play, why not learn from
Steve Cyr, who interfaces with such players on a daily basis.
Blackjack Attack: Playing the Pros’ Way This masterpiece is the work of Don
Schlesinger, a long-time columnist for Blackjack Forum. The book is a
compilation of some of Don’s best articles, with some updates and much
brand-new material. There’s also enough information on betting strategies
and bankroll requirements to appease the mathematically inclined reader,
along with valuable insight from a very well-respected authority on the game.
The Theory of Blackjack
This is the book for anyone interested in serious blackjack
mathematics and statistics. Mathematics professor Peter Griffin tells it by
the numbers. Griffin’s work inspired most of the subsequent research in
the mathematics of not only blackjack, but also several other casino
games. This book is still considered the foundation in the research of the
mathematics of blackjack. Those of you who are into the mathematics
and statistics of the game will find this terrific reading.
Beyond Counting
Those familiar with Peter Griffin’s “Elephant Version” of The Theory of
Blackjack would agree that if Peter were still around, after reading James
Grosjean’s Beyond Counting, he would have ridden the elephant, pulled
up in front of Grosjean’s house, told James to hop aboard, and passed
him a Heineken. This book contains tactical information applicable to
blackjack and many other casino games, along with the math to support
everything written. This guy knows his stuff!
The Card Counter’s Guide to Casino Surveillance Authored by Cellini
(pseudonym), an actual surveillance agent, this book gives the player a look
at the perspective from behind the cameras. Cellini has been in the casino
business for many years and reveals much about the inner workings of a
casino surveillance department. From a tactical standpoint, the book gives
some insight into the methods used by surveillance staff to identify card
counters. Reading the book can inspire you to get creative and develop your
own methods to beat the system.
Burning the Tables in Las Vegas Ian Andersen is my kind of player. In the mid-
1970s, he wrote Turning the Tables on Las Vegas, which was a classic work
for that time. Ian’s first book takes the player to the tables and explains how
to “operate.” Fast-forward some 20 plus years and you have his most recent
book, which gives some updates on his excellent insight on playing the
game.
Blackjack and the Law
Written by two attorneys familiar with gaming law, I. Nelson Rose
and Robert Loeb, among the many issues the book addresses are your
obligations in reporting winnings for tax purposes, the exclusion of
skilled players by casinos, and your rights when casinos demand you to
show identification or attempt to force you into a back room.
Gambling Wizards
Richard Munchkin interviewed some of the world’s top professional
advantage players and treated us with his 2002 publication. Based on
thorough research of the subjects, Munchkin’s book is in a most
interesting question-and-answer format, lending insight to the
beginnings and adventures of some of these personalities.
The Art of the Schmooze:
Savvy Social Guide for Getting to the Top Written by two social networkers,
Bret Saxon and Steve Stein show their moves. Helpful if you apply the
techinques to dealing with casino staff.
The Art of War
A classic by Sun Tzu and there are several versions out there. If you
relate the information provided in this book to your casino play, you’ll
find ideas for tactical approaches in the art of deception.
Periodicals
Current Blackjack News
Published by Stanford Wong’s Pi Yee Press, this monthly newsletter
is compiled from information submitted by reporters nationwide, who
provide conditions of blackjack games in numerous U.S. casinos. Details
include number of tables, rules, and an estimate of the penetration levels
at the respective casinos. This newsletter can also be accessed from the
bj21.com website. The complete Web address is: bj21.com Blackjack Forum
This quarterly publication, the work of Arnold Snyder, is no longer
published. But back issues of BJF are readily available and contain
articles written on various blackjack issues, which are usually very
informative and entertaining.
Software
Casino Vérité
This program enables the user to practice basic strategy drills, card-
counting drills, and true-count-conversion drills. It also allows you to
play games with a variety of different rules. These features, along with
many others, make this package a fantastic practice and research tool.
Blackjack Risk Manager 2002
This program was developed by John Auston and enables the user to
input various count systems, desired rules, number of decks, penetration
levels, bankroll, and bet levels to calculate win rates, standard deviation,
and risk of ruin. Its features are too numerous even to list here. This is
one product no serious player should be without.
Statistical Blackjack Analyzer This simulator, developed by Karel Janecek,
gives the user the ability to set up any count system, along with tables for
play variations, and simulate millions of hands played to determine the
strength of the respective system. This program gives the user much
flexibility.
CAB 2000
Dustin Marks produced this CD, which goes way beyond Chapter 16
of this book. Many cheating moves are demonstrated in an entertaining
manner, with the intent of creating an awareness in players.
Final Note
I never thought I’d finish writing Blackjack Blueprint! While working
on this book, I’ve managed to get out and hit a few casinos along the
way. There are still beatable games in many places. It takes some
homework to identify them. Over the years, I’ve been fortunate to be
involved with a network of players who exchange information on
gaming conditions. While the opportunities are there, the game is still a
tough one to beat. Having the ability to play a technically perfect game is
not enough. One must play in quality games or not play at all. It’s
essential to avoid detection from surveillance. Discipline is a key
element. It’s important to have fun at it, too. There will usually be one
incident that occurs during a trip that you can recall and have a good
chuckle over.
Now go out and win some money!
Glossary
Although this list is far from complete, here are some common terms
used in this book, the casino industry, and in blackjack in general.
Ace—Can have a value of 1 or 11, depending on the value of other cards
in the hand.
Ace-Neutralized Count—Aces are assigned a value of zero, and in such
counts, a side count of aces would be required for betting purposes.
Ace-Reckoned Count—Aces are assigned a value other than zero, and in
such counts, a side count of aces is not necessary for betting, but may be
used for play variations.
Action—Identifies the total amount of money a player wagers during the
course of a session.
Backcounting—Method where a player stands by a blackjack table or
tables without playing, but counting the cards with the intent of jumping
into the game once the count becomes favorable.
Balanced Count—Count system where the total of all the plus-value
cards combined with the total of all minus-value cards equals zero.
Barring—Preventing a player from further playing blackjack in a casino,
by formal notification from a casino employee.
Basic Strategy—Derived set of play decisions that represent the optimal
method of play, based solely on the player’s first two cards dealt and the
dealer’s upcard.
Bet Spread—The range between the player’s minimum and maximum
bets.
Betting Circle—Spot on the blackjack table directly in front of the player
where the bet (wager) is placed.
Betting Efficiency—A measurement that shows the power of a card-
counting system for betting purposes.
Burn Card—A card removed from the top of a freshly shuffled deck,
indicating that it will not be dealt in play.
Bust—To take additional hits so that the cards’ total exceeds 21, resulting
in a losing hand.
Chip Tray—The tray directly in front of the dealer, used to hold chips,
sorted by denomination.
Comp—A free product or service extended by the casino to the player.
Cut Card—A colored plastic card inserted by the player somewhere
within the deck(s) to determine where the dealer will cut; after the cut,
the dealer inserts the card to indicate at what point the deck(s) will be
reshuffled. In this use it can also be referred to as a shuffle card or stop
card.
Cutoffs—Unplayed cards remaining in a shoe after the cut card appears.
Discard Tray—The tray/holder on the table, to the dealer’s right, where
all previously dealt cards and the burn card are placed face down.
Double Down—The option for the player to place an additional bet, up
to equal in value to the original bet, based on the value of the first two
cards dealt. Doubling down is sometimes limited by the casino rules.
When doubling down, the player receives only one additional card.
Early Surrender—A rule that enables the player to give up one-half of
the wager after looking at the first two cards dealt, for an immediate loss.
If the dealer has an ace or ten upcard, this option may be exercised before
the dealer checks for a natural.
Face-Down Game—The player’s first two cards are dealt face down and
the player is required to handle the cards.
Face-Up Game—The player’s cards are dealt face up and the player is
not permitted to handle the cards.
First Base—Seat located on the far right of the player’s side of the
blackjack table.
Hard Hand—A hand where no ace is present or where the ace is present
but can be used only as a 1-value card, because if it’s used as 11 it will
cause a bust.
Heat—When casino personnel start watching a player very carefully.
Hit—Either the player’s request or the dealer’s requirement to be dealt
an additional card.
Hole Card—One of the dealer’s first two cards, which is dealt face down
and not available for the player’s viewing.
Insurance—A side wager offered when the dealer’s upcard is an ace. The
player has the option of placing up to one-half the value of the original
bet, which wins at a 2-1 rate if the dealer’s hole card is a ten, giving the
dealer a natural. Winning an insurance bet offsets that of the original
wager (losing bet), with the overall result being a push, unless the player
has a natural.
Insurance Efficiency—Measurement of the power of a card-counting
system for insurance decisions.
Late Surrender—A rule enabling the player to give up one-half the initial
wager after looking at the first two cards dealt, for an immediate loss.
However, if the dealer has a natural, the player loses the entire bet.
Multi-Level Count—The point values assigned for each card are plus 1,
minus 1, zero, as well as higher numbers such as plus 2, minus 2, etc.
Marker—Draft signed by a player requesting chips, advanced against
either a credit line arranged with the casino or money held on deposit
(“front money”).
Natural—When the first two cards dealt to a player or dealer are an ace
and a ten, paid at a rate of 3-2, unless the dealer also has a natural (also
called a “blackjack”).
One-Level Count—The point values of each card are assigned plus 1,
minus 1, or zero.
Pair Split—The ability for the player to place an additional bet equal to
that of the original wager when the first two cards dealt are of equal
value, thereby splitting the two cards, to create two separate hands.
Peek—When the dealer is dealt an ace or ten upcard and manually
checks the hole card to determine if the hand is a natural. (Note: Today
many casinos use special “auto-peek” devices built into the table, which
automatically read tens or aces. With such devices, dealers no longer
manually peek at the hole card.) Penetration—How far down into the
deck(s) the dealer deals before shuffling.
Picks—The number of cards picked up or grabbed in each hand by a
dealer during the shuffle routine.
Pitch—Method whereby cards are dealt by the dealer from deck(s) held
in the dealer’s hand.
Playing Efficiency—Measurement of the power of a card-counting
system for “play-of-hands” decisions.
Play Variation—Play of a hand that differs from that prescribed by basic
strategy, based on use of a count system.
Plugging—One of the first steps in the shuffle routine, where the undealt
cards (“cutoffs”) from a shoe are placed in various points of the cards in
the discard tray. The cutoffs can also be plugged in total in one spot as
well.
Point Value—Plus number, minus number, or zero, which is assigned to
a specific card in the deck (also called “tag value”).
Push—When a player’s hand total is equal to the dealer’s total (a “tie”).
Rating—Method where the pit keeps track of how much money a player
puts into action, mainly for the purpose of offering comps.
Riffle—A process of holding a group of cards in both hands during the
shuffle process, interlacing both groups, resulting in the creation of one
group.
Risk of Ruin—The percentage chance of a player’s losing an entire
bankroll.
Running Count—The cumulative count maintained based on the point
values of the cards already dealt.
Segment—Area of the dealt cards that a player has focused on for the
purpose of tracking in the shuffle process.
Shoe—Device used to hold cards, usually when four or more decks are
used.
Soft Hand—A hand in which an ace is present and can be counted as 1
or 11.
Stand—Either the player’s request or the dealer’s requirement not to be
dealt any additional cards.
Stiff—A hand totaling 12-16.
Ten-Value Card—Tens, jacks, queens, and kings all have a value of ten.
Third Base—Seat to the far left of the blackjack table, from the player’s
view.
Toke—Tips, either given directly to the dealer or in the form of a bet
placed on the dealer’s behalf.
Toke Box—Small clear box, normally maintained on the left side of the
table from the player’s view, with a slot used for the dealer to deposit
chips received as tips.
True Count—The value determined by a formula of taking the running
count and dividing it by the number of undealt decks or half-decks.
Unbalanced Count—A count system in which the total of all the plus-
value cards combined with the total of all the minus-value cards do not
add up to zero.
Upcard—One of the dealer’s first two cards, which is dealt face up,
available for the player’s viewing.
About the Author
Rick “Night Train” Blaine is a career executive with a Fortune 500
company whose hobby for the past 25 years has been beating the casinos
at blackjack. Well-versed in all aspects of winning blackjack play, Blaine
has excelled both solo and as a blackjack-team player and leader. Blaine
has earned a significant (mid-seven-figure) second income and traveled
the world playing blackjack. He is particularly well-known in blackjack
circles for his ability to teach new players how to beat the game. He lives
in New York.
 Play Blackjack Like a Pro–
Without Becoming One!

From the first turn of the card to getting out of a foreign country
with a suitcase full of cash, Blackjack Blueprint is the most
comprehensive book ever written on learning to play blackjack for
profit.

This book covers everything from basic strategy to counting cards,

from maximizing potential going solo to playing on a blackjack team.
Casino comps, tournaments, location play, shuffle tracking, playing in
disguise, outwitting the eye in the sky, and other advantage-play
techniques—it’s all here.

Best of all, the techniques you’ll learn in Blackjack Blueprint can be

used part-time as a money-making hobby, just as author Rick Blaine
has used them for years while pursuing a career in finance.

This revised edition contains new information on getting

reimbursed for airline tickets to casino destinations, negotiating and
optimizing rebates on gambling losses, hiding chips and disguising
wins, security while on blackjack-related websites, mitigating the risk
of identity theft by casino and credit-agency employees, and protecting
your personal privacy when making large cash transactions at casinos.
 Endnotes
1
Average Bet x Hands Dealt Per Hour
2
Total Action x 1%