Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Brief - to make a suitable presentation case for a 19th-century barometer, approx 185mm dia
with a silver or silver plated case.
This project forms part of the work planned for Term 1 2nd year FdA Makers.
1. Design process
An initial view of the object was provided by the Edward James Archive catalogue, including
approximate object dimensions. This allowed some rough concept designs to be produced,
mainly in the Victorian scientific instrument style, with case outlines including square,
hexagonal and round models.
Further development of these designs included separate glazed covers, hinged or removeable
top covers for transit or storage of the item, or the ability to stow an unused top cover under
the case by making use of a turned rebate. Some of the drawings used are provided in the
Appendix.
A viewing of the actual object was obtained, and some more accurate measurements taken. It
was also noted that the case includes three mounting lugs spaced more or less equidistantly
around the rim, with the largest being more or less mid-range for the barometer scale and
hence presumably the topmost lug when the object is wall mounted. A tracing was made of
the base of the barometer to allow for checking against the developed design.
Further checking against what the customer actually wanted uncovered the fact that the case
is intended to be fixed to the wall, so that the piece can be displayed vertically, in line with
how it would originally have been used.
Final design
A turned wooden case with enough room to accommodate the piece and its mounting lugs.
The mounting lugs are rebated into the back of the case wall and the piece is held in place by
a back plate screwed into the case.
The front of the piece is protected by a round piece of glass, with about a centimetre of visible
bevel around the edge to match the visual effect of the barometer glass itself. The glass is
sunk into a turned rebate in the top of the case wall and held in place by a separate turned
moulding, which is then glued in place on top of the glass. The only access to the barometer
(for maintenance, cleaning etc) is hence through the back of the case, which will require it to
be dismounted from the wall. This also provides a little security against possible theft,
although a determined thief could doubtless remove it with sufficient effort.
Further developments in the design include small internal pieces of wood which hide the
mounting lugs of the original barometer, and also ensure that the barometer is held level in the
case.
A decorative touch to the outside of the case is added by a silver wire inlay which is added
between the moulding and the remainder of the case. This comprises a complete ring made of
square section silver wire, hard-soldered and hammered to fit the exact case dimensions.
The case lining is red baize. Some thought was given to the potential corrosive effects of
various different linings (e.g. some of the chemicals used in leather treatment could adversely
affect the silver of the barometer). Red baize is believed to be fairly inert in this respect – a
test was undertaken by wrapping a piece of silver in baize for some days – no adverse effects
were noted.
The case is be held to the wall by feet, hand made to fit, which are spaced around the outside
of the case in approximately the same orientation and position as on the original barometer.
Some consideration was given to the choice of wood for the moulding and the case veneer. It
was thought that the overall look should be in accordance with the Victorian / Edwardian
theme, which would dictate some dark hardwood. After considering woods like bubinga
( https://www.wood-database.com/bubinga/ ) it was decided to go with teak. Teak veneer
was available from stock at the workshop. For the solid wood moulding, Norbert kindly
provided some high-quality teak boarding.
Overall design time - about a day for the initial designs and about another day in all for the
remaining refinements and tweaks - 2 days
2. Construction details
Carcase - was constructed from eight pieces of tulipwood cut at an angle of 22.5 degrees at
each end and glued together.
The next day the glued assembly was found to be solid without any evident flaws and was
glued to a flat piece of plywood cut to an approximate octagonal shape. The following day
this was centred up on a face plate ready for use with the lathe.
The carcase thus constructed was found to have multiple uses - most of it was removed
following turning to make the case body, but the remaining section was used for testing
veneering, turning ring mouldings for the top of the case, and re-turning the finished case
section to provide a bottom rebate for the back panel.
Basic case construction and mounting to board - 1 day
3. Turning details
Main case
Once judged satisfactory, about two-thirds of the initial assembly was cut away using the
parting tool to establish a groove, followed by a fine saw. It was then possible to rebate the
end of the remaining case, allowing it to fit the rebate cut for the base plate. This allowed the
cut off section to be turned around and re-attached to the lathe, so that the cut end could be
cleaned up and another rebate put in the other end for the case glass.
The glued item was then glued to a backboard, which was cut down, then attached to the
remaining case which was still on the chuck. Once assembled onto the lathe the ring was
turned down in the normal fashion.
5. Base plate
The base plate is a piece of the original tulipwood plank used to construct the case, ripped
down to about 12mm and cut to a circle. Following the chiselling out of holes in the back of
the case for the barometer mounting lugs, a visible hole was left in the back of the case. A
piece of wood was added to the base plate in order to fit into this and to provide a key for base
plate orientation.
It was noted that the case would provide a reasonably hermetic seal which would prevent the
barometer functioning as required. In order to allow the barometer to function, a small hole
was cut in the base plate and a piece of fine wire mesh (about 250 wires per inch) was glued
over this in order to prevent insect access. A groove was cut in the back of the plate to allow
an air passage from the hole.
6. Veneering
The tulipwood construction of the case is not visible from the front once the case is fully
assembled, as the outside is covered in teak veneer with a teak moulding and the inside is
covered in red baize. The back panel is not veneered or otherwise treated, but is turned to the
wall when the case is mounted as intended.
For veneering of the case, a template was cut from
packing paper which allowed for the surface area
expected, plus margins for length and width. This
template was used to select a suitable piece of veneer
from the teak veneer available, avoiding any obvious
figuring.
After checking that the veneer was lined up correctly with the case, the veneer strip was
clamped into place.
The following day, the process was repeated but for most of the rest of the veneer strip,
leaving about 150mm free. It was noted that the veneer strip, which started centred on the
case, was now off-centre and likely to lead to a gap on one side when the strip was fully
applied. It is possible that wetting and glueing the veneer caused significant movement or
shrinkage in the wood material; apart from this, there is no obvious explanation why the
veneer should go off-centre.
The third session of glueing the veneer strip required the creation of an accurate butt joint
where the two strip ends met. The existing butt end cut was checked for flatness and
straightness; the second end was measured against the first and cut on a slight slope, so that
the top side of the veneer end would overhang the existing end slightly. This allowed any
minor gaps to be covered. Following initial glueing, the butt joint was checked; some
additional glue was added and the joint was clamped to set overnight.
The final addition of veneer was to cover the gap left during the main veneering process. To
do this, a piece of veneer was colour-matched to the existing section and cut to length, as well
as being reinforced with masking tape on the non-glueing side. A lot of scraping and other
adjustment took place to ensure that the two pieces fitted adequately. Finally, the new section
was glued in three stages - firstly at the thickest end, by the main veneer joint. Once this was
set then about 60% of the remaining veneer was glued in one operation. Finally, the
remaining section was glued and manually held in place before being fixed with masking tape
and clamped. The last section was most difficult as the glueing width was narrow to start
with, eventually going down to zero, which meant that it was not possible to brace the
remaining veneer against the glueing surface. Standard Titebond PVA was used for all of the
patch glueing.
Overall veneering time - 2 days for main veneer plus another day for patching and finishing -
3 days
7. Case Feet
After some consultation with the client (Emma), it was decided that the feet would be made
out of teak, (three only) with a simple D profile, and silver stringing up the middle. This then
led to the problem of how to fix the feet to the wall, because a large screw in the middle of the
stringing would not be particularly elegant.
For the inlay process, the sides of the inlay rebate were marked using a standard scribe. The
rebate work was done using a 1.3mm chisel made for the purpose, plus a small hammer and
punch. Chisel handle, hammer and punch were made out of cherry wood (left over from the
previous nested table project)
11. Mounting
After consultation with the client, the screw
positions were marked on the Boardroom wall
using masking tape. Checks were carried out to
ensure that none of the holes would affect any
cable runs.
The above costs do not include any estimate for services, workshop rent etc.
Appendix – Drawings