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Maleah Bralette Crochet Pattern

This pattern is intended for an advanced beginner and beyond crochet skill level. This
bralette was designed by Elizabeth Gonsalves in Trinidad, a sunny tropical twin island
in the Caribbean also known as Trinidad and Tobago. This bralette consists of two bra
cups that will be worked. Then the cups will be connected with a border around both
cups & straps will be made. The back cascading piece will be made & attached lastly.
There is some measuring involved to ensure a perfectly custom fit. Any type of weight
3 or 4 yarn is recommended for this project. For more coverage, you can choose to use
a smaller hook or thicker yarn, however this will affect the gauge for certain sections,
and it will need to be adjusted accordingly. I recommend to read through the pattern
thoroughly to familiarize yourself with the process before beginning. This Pattern is
written in US Crochet Terminology.
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BEHIND THE DESIGN:

This design was first created at the start of my crochet journey when I used to make
custom orders for clients in Trinidad. There was this beautiful lady named Maleah that
reached out to me on Instagram & requested a completely new custom bralette! She
shared a couple of photos of bralettes that were her style & told me to make whatever
I wanted to with my imagination. I must say that it is one of the most beautiful
experiences I’ve ever had! This was the first time someone placed their trust in me to
create something new & I enjoyed every step of the creative process! She also loved the
elements of shells that I place into my designs so I made this one of the focal points!

Maleah lives a regenerative lifestyle & is into Permaculture! This is the practice of
growing food naturally in a self-sufficient & sustainable way that does not deplete the
earth’s natural resources. And with these skills, she makes so many different table
foods! One of which are frozen lollies from fruits she has grown! She also sells these
lollies in Market places all around Trinidad. I love following her journey on Instagram!

She is such an inspiration to me! This is why I named the Bralette after her!

Here are her Pages if you would like to take a glance at her lifestyle!

Maleah on Instagram

Stay Woke Sustainability on Instagram

Loud Lollies on Instagram

Wa Samaki Permaculture on Instagram

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Abbreviations Materials Needed

Stitch: ST 3.5 mm Crochet hook
Skip: SK 100-300 yards for each color of yarn
Chain: CH Scissors
Slip Stitch: Sl St Darning Needle
Single Crochet: SC Tape Measure
Half Double Crochet: HDC Stitch Markers
Treble Crochet: TR
Double Crochet 2 Together: DC2Tog

Sample Notes:
Sample notes in this pattern were made for a size XS/S B cup
Gauge: 6cm x 6cm = 12 stitches x 9HDC rows
Crochet Hook Size: 3.5 mm

General Notes

• I recommend using a natural fibre yarn. Weight 3 or 4 Yarn is used to get the
look as shown in the photos on this pattern. However, you can use any size yarn
& the recommended hook size for that yarn as this pattern uses your unique
measurements to achieve your desired fit!
• I recommend using beads for this project as it helps the cascading back piece
fall into place as it acts as some weight to it! But if you do not have beads, you
can use picots instead!
• Read through the entire pattern before starting to familiarize yourself with the
process.
• You can use this pattern to make this Bralette for yourself, friends, family
members or to make custom pieces to sell to others online. However,
distributing this written pattern on any online platform to anyone is strictly not
allowed.

• Throughout this pattern, I have stated my stitch counts & row counts so that
you can get a general idea of what to do while creating this bralette!
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-Nipple

MAKE 2 CUPS:

Make a rectangle: Here are some diagrams above to help you understand where the
rectangles are and how to measure your chest to achieve the rectangle for your size.

Keep in mind to size down your measurements by a few stitches as the piece
stretches when worn! If you are using a stretchy yarn, I suggest to size down by
at least 5 stitches for each measurement.

Grab your measuring tape & measure from your nipple to the end of your under boob.

This is your Measure A (nipple to under boob)

Measure from the middle of your under boob to the end of your side boob.

This is your Measure B (Middle of under boob to end of side boob)

These will be the dimensions for your starting rectangle for each cup.
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R1: CH the amount that corresponds to your Measure B. (I went with 18 CH)

CH 1 more (does not count as ST) & HDC in each ST until end of row.

R2: *CH1 (does not count as a ST) & turn work

HDC once into each ST until end of row.

Repeat from * until you have enough rows to match your Measure A. (I went with 9 rows)

Do not cut yarn.

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Complete Cup with curved rows: (A few rows with increases & the rest without)

Increase Rows:

R1: CH1 (does not count as a ST) & turn work

HDC once into each ST until end of row.

On the very last ST, HDC a total of 3 times into that 1 ST.

Place a ST marker into the second of the 3 ST.

Now we will work along the sides of the HDC rows.

(I like to place 1 HDC into the side of each HDC)

HDC into each ST until end of row.

At end, HDC one more time into the CH ST from beginning of cups.

R2: *CH1 (does not count as a ST) & turn work

HDC once into each ST until you reach ST marker.

HDC 3 times into the middle ST.

HDC once into each ST until end of row.

Repeat from * until you have desired amount of increase rows.

I would suggest placing rectangle to your chest jewel & once the corner of the rectangle
reaches right below your nipple, Stop increasing. Remember to stretch cup while placing to
body as this will stretch once completed & worn. I made a total of 2 increase rows.

*Do not make more than 3 increase rows as this may cause a bulge in the
middle of the cups. I’d say its better to go with LESS increase rows.
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Cup placed on chest

with 2 increase rows

just below nipple area

Rows without Increases:

R1: *CH1 & turn work.

HDC once into each ST until end of row.

Repeat from * until you achieve desired coverage. I went with 6 more rows for my size!

Keep in mind that if you are a size A-B Cup, there will be 2 extra SC rows around the cups
to join the cups together so be mindful to not make the cups too big.

If you have are a C Cup and above, there will be 3 extra SC rows around the cups to ensure
more coverage & security for the chest jewels when worn.

Cut and fasten off yarn.

Repeat these steps for the second cup.

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Joining Cups with First Boarder around Cups:

Place cups together upside down as shown in photo below

Grab second color of yarn & create a standing SC at bottom right corner as shown.

Here is a link to my YouTube Tutorial showing how to create a Standing Single Crochet stitch

SC once into each ST until middle of cup,

Grab second cup & continue SC along bottom edge until first corner.

Start here
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3SC into last ST at first corner. SC once into each ST until next corner.

3SC into last ST at top corner. SC once into each ST until middle of cups.

At the very middle, SC once into bottom of SC where the two cups join.

Continue SC until next top corner. 3SC into last ST at top corner.

SC once into each ST until you reach back to the beginning.

2SC into last ST at corner & SL ST into standing SC from beginning of round.
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If you are a size C Cup & above Follow these steps below.

If you are a size A/B Cup, skip this page & move on to the step.

This step is to give larger chest jewels more support once worn so there will be
an extra connection in the middle of the cups making 2 holes instead of 1 as
shown in my photo. If you would like to see a reference photo, please scroll down to page
(23) of my lovely tester, Lisa who used this method for her size DD Cups

CH1 (doesn’t count as a ST) & SC into same ST.

SC once into each ST until next corner.

3SC into middle ST of the 3 at corner.

SC in each ST until you have 6 ST left before the connection between the 2 cups.

Count the same amount of ST to mirror the opposite side.

Leave 6 stitches free on each side of both cups & SC into 7th ST on next cup.

SC once into each ST until next corner.

3SC into middle ST of the 3 at corner.

SC into each ST until end of row.

SC 2 times into last ST & SlSt into first SC from beginning of round.
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Last Row of Boarder & Straps Included:

CH1 (doesn’t count as a ST) & SC into same ST.

*SC once into each ST until next corner.

SC into middle ST of the 3 at corner.

CH 100 or more (depending on your preference for length of straps)

Add bead or cowrie shell: Pull up a loop, remove hook & place loop inside of bead.

Place hook back on loop & Sl St into each CH until end.

*If you do not have beads, you can create a 4CH Picot at the end of the straps.

*If you would like your straps to be thicker, you can SC or DC instead of Sl St until end.

SC into same middle ST of the 3 at corner.

Repeat from * once more.

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Picot Edging at top row of cups:

*SC once into next 2 ST.

In 3rd ST, create a 4CH picot. (CH4 & Sl St into last SC)

Repeat from* until you have 6 ST left until middle of cups.

(You can make this space in the middle wider by leaving more stitches open. Just make sure
that each side mirrors each other)

Add bead or Cowrie Shell: Pull up a loop & remove hook. Place bead through loop & CH1.

Count the same amount of ST to mirror the opposite side.

SC into next ST (in my case I SK 6 ST & SC into 7th ST)

Continue making picots just like before making sure that your picots mirror the opposite cup
until next corner.

Repeat steps from * Last Row Boarder and Straps instructions on the previous page.

Do so two times completing all 4 straps until you reach back to the end of the round.

2 SC into last ST & SlSt into first ST from beginning of round.

Cut and fasten off yarn.

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Create Foundation for Back Cascading Piece:

First, we need to find your back measurement!

Put on your bralette & measure from your top straps (close to the bow at the back of your
neck) to the bottom straps start (below under arm) Here are photos for reference:

Notice how the Cascading back piece is placed over

The bottom back strap. The strap is underneath.

Keep in mind that we want the bottom back straps to be placed on the inner side of the
bralette. This cascading back piece will be worked over the bottom back straps.

Take off Bralette and place it flat with the front side facing you

Attach yarn at any one corner where your bottom straps start.
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CH amount that corresponds to back measurement.

Remember to stretch yarn while measuring. Make sure it is an even number of chains.

I CH 42 which corresponded to my measurement of 11 inches.

Add 1 more CH & turn work.

Work a SC into each CH until you reach back to the corner of the bralette where you started.

Sl St into the ST right before the start of your straps.

This should line up with the SC row at the bottom of the bralette.

Cut and fasten off yarn.

Repeat these steps on the next side.

In these photos you can see that I placed Stitch Markers in the spaces where a Shell would
be made on the last row. You can also do this at this point or you can do this 2 rows ahead
if you want to know exactly where your shells would be placed & how many beads you will
need for your size. What I did was place a ST marker in the exact middle at the bottom of
your bralette. Skip 5 Stitches & place another ST marker in the 6th ST. Repeat until end on
one side. I explain this a little more in detail a few rows ahead.
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Continue to create cascading back piece: (no more cutting yarn until very end)

Place the bralette Flat with the right side facing you again.

Attach Yarn at left side. We will be working along the dotted lines as shown.
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CH2 (counts as first DC of DC2Tog)

DC into same ST. (this is your first DC2Tog)

CH1 & SK a ST.

DC2Tog into next ST.

Repeat from * all along until you reach the next end of cascading back piece.

(Make sure not to miss a ST at the corner of your cups where the connection was made)

Once you reach the last ST on the other end of cascading piece, take a look at your work.

Count how many DC2Tog you have in total.

Make sure this is an even number & that both sides mirror each other.
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CH1 & turn work. SC into first ST.

*SC into next CH1 space. SC into next ST.

Repeat from * all along until you each opposite side.

Do not cut yarn.

From here you will need some Stitch markers to guide you.

These ST Markers are placed in the ST where a Shell will be made.

Place one ST Marker in the exact middle ST of your bralette. (Front facing you)

*Count the next 5 ST & place a ST marker into the 6th ST

Repeat from * Placing ST markers all along on one side of bralette until end of row.

These should be on the side closest to where you made your last ST.

At the end, you may have some Stitches remaining. That is ok!

Exact middle
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Create Scalloped Edging:

This part may be different for each of you depending on the length of your back piece.

CH1 & SlSt until you have 2 stitches free before your ST marker.

*TR 5 times into ST Marker space.

CH1, Pull up a loop, place bead/ shell through loop & Sl St into 5th TR.

If you do not have beads, you can simply make a CH4 picot all along.

TR5 times into same ST Marker space.

Skip 2 ST & Sl St into 3rd ST. Leave 2 ST free.

Repeat from * until you have reached the end on the opposite side. Do not cut yarn.
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It should look something like this once you reach the opposite end.

We’re almost finished! Now to attach the ends to the top straps as shown!

To do so, continue where you left off.

CH1 & SC 5 times around the top strap while also catching the stitches at the side of your
back cascading piece as shown in the photo below.

Cut and fasten off yarn.

Repeat by attaching yarn on the opposite side.

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Weave in all loose ends & you have successfully completed your Maleah
Bralette! Wear & enjoy!

TESTER PHOTOS & INFORMATION FOR REFERENCE

The testers make the process of creating this pattern such a delightful experience and
they give me a lot of pointers on how to improve! Here is their information below
with photos included for reference! I am extremely grateful for their help so please
check out their social media profiles when you have the time. They are so talented
and deserve your love and support! I’ve shared their Instagram Handles right below
their photos!

Mazden @MaznificentCreations Size: X-Small A Cup

Length of Measure A (nipple to underboob): 3 inches
Length of Measure B: 4 inches
Number of rows to match Measure A length: 8 rows
Number of chains to match Measure B length: 16 ch
Number of rows with increases: 2 increase rows
Number of rows without increases: 4 non increase rows
Back Measurement: 13 inches
Number of chains to match Back Measurement: 55 ch
Yarn Type: Lion Brand Coboo weight 3 yarn
Amount of Yarn used: Approximately 150 yards
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Andrea @ndrainwooldeland Size: X-Small 32 A Cup

Length of Measure A (nipple to underboob): 3 inches
Length of Measure B: 3.5 inches
Number of rows to match Measure A length: 10 rows
Number of chains to match Measure B length: 22 ch
Number of rows with increases: 2 increase rows
Number of rows without increases: 3 non increase rows
Back Measurement: 13 inches
Number of chains to match Back Measurement: 66 ch
Yarn Type: Moda Vera starlight DK weight yarn
Amount of Yarn used: Approximately 150 yards
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Jade @krosheibyhaya Size: Small 32 C Cup

Length of Measure A (nipple to underboob): 2.5 inches
Length of Measure B: 4.5 inches
Number of rows to match Measure A length: 9 rows
Number of chains to match Measure B length: 16 ch
Number of rows with increases: 2 increase rows
Number of rows without increases: 6 non increase rows
Back Measurement: 13 inches
Number of chains to match Back Measurement: 50 ch
Yarn Type: Milk Cotton 4 ply yarn
Amount of Yarn used: Approximately 100 grams
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Lisa @dubraycrochet Size: Small DD Cup

Length of Measure A (nipple to underboob): 3 inches
Length of Measure B: 4 inches
Number of rows to match Measure A length: 12 rows
Number of chains to match Measure B length: 22 ch
Number of rows with increases: 4 increase rows
Number of rows without increases: 9 non increase rows
Back Measurement: 13 inches
Number of chains to match Back Measurement: 61 ch
Yarn Type: Lion Brand Coboo weight 3 yarn
Amount of Yarn used: Approximately 180 meters
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Fides @azramati Size: Small C/D Cup

Length of Measure A (nipple to underboob): 8cm
Length of Measure B: 12cm
Number of rows to match Measure A length: 11 rows
Number of chains to match Measure B length: 20 ch
Number of rows with increases: 2 increase rows
Number of rows without increases: 3 non increase rows
Back Measurement: 31cm
Number of chains to match Back Measurement: 50 ch
Yarn Type: Mercerised cotton light worsted weight yarn
Amount of Yarn used: Approximately 280 meters
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Sally @sally.hayes.33 Size: Medium 36 B Cup

Length of Measure A (nipple to underboob): 2.75 inches
Length of Measure B: 3 inches
Number of rows to match Measure A length: 10 rows
Number of chains to match Measure B length: 20 ch
Number of rows with increases: 3 increase rows
Number of rows without increases: 11 non increase rows
Back Measurement: 16 inches
Number of chains to match Back Measurement: 68 ch
Yarn Type: Lion Brand Coboo weight 3 yarn
Amount of Yarn used: Approximately 265 yards
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Vera @azorcrochets Size: Medium 34 A Cup

Length of Measure A (nipple to underboob): 3 inches
Length of Measure B: 4.5 inches
Number of rows to match Measure A length: 11 rows
Number of chains to match Measure B length: 23 ch
Number of rows with increases: 2 increase rows
Number of rows without increases: 4 non increase rows
Back Measurement: 12 inches
Number of chains to match Back Measurement: 54 ch
Yarn Type: Lion Brand Moroccan Nights & Yarnspirations cotton 2 ply yarn
Amount of Yarn used: Approximately 275 Yards
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Ruo @freaky444yarn Size: Medium B Cup

Length of Measure A (nipple to underboob): 2.5 inches
Length of Measure B: 4 inches
Number of rows to match Measure A length: 10 rows
Number of chains to match Measure B length: 25 ch
Number of rows with increases: 2 increase rows
Number of rows without increases: 8 non increase rows
Back Measurement: 14 inches
Number of chains to match Back Measurement: 66 ch
Yarn Type: Lion Brand Truboo & Patons mercerised cotton weight 3 yarn
Amount of Yarn used: Approximately 250 yards
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Trang @irish_klb Size: Large 38 B Cup

Length of Measure A (nipple to underboob): 3 inches
Length of Measure B: 4 inches
Number of rows to match Measure A length: 10 rows
Number of chains to match Measure B length: 21 ch
Number of rows with increases: 3 increase rows
Number of rows without increases: 7 non increase rows
Back Measurement: 15 inches
Number of chains to match Back Measurement: 81 ch
Yarn Type: Light weight cotton yarn
Amount of Yarn used: Approximately 210 yards
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Alessandra @sandrabarts_ Size: Large 38 B Cup

Length of Measure A (nipple to underboob): 8cm
Length of Measure B: 12cm
Number of rows to match Measure A length: 10 rows
Number of chains to match Measure B length: 22 ch
Number of rows with increases: 3 increase rows
Number of rows without increases: 7 non increase rows
Back Measurement: 41cm
Number of chains to match Back Measurement: 85 ch
Yarn Type: Poly 4 ply weight 2 cotton yarn
Amount of Yarn used: Approximately 100 grams
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Jen @jentsilyo_ph Size: XL D Cup

Length of Measure A (nipple to underboob): 7cm
Length of Measure B: 10cm
Number of rows to match Measure A length: 11 rows
Number of chains to match Measure B length: 20 ch
Number of rows with increases: 2 increase rows
Number of rows without increases: 7 non increase rows
Back Measurement: 35cm
Number of chains to match Back Measurement: 70 ch
Yarn Type: 6-ply combed cotton #2 sport weight yarn
Amount of Yarn used: Approximately 130 grams
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Justine @crochetbyauntiej Size: XL D Cup

Length of Measure A (nipple to underboob): 3 inches
Length of Measure B: 4.5 inches
Number of rows to match Measure A length: 7 rows
Number of chains to match Measure B length: 18 ch
Number of rows with increases: 5 increase rows
Number of rows without increases: 7 non increase rows
Back Measurement: 13 inches
Number of chains to match Back Measurement: 52 ch
Yarn Type: Lion Brand Mandala & Coboo weight 3 yarn
Amount of Yarn used: Approximately 210 yards
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