Food

EDO ON A STICK SUPER SANDO

90 Say yes to yakitori with this
collection of skewered recipes
108 Chef Jimmy Callaway shares
the secrets to picture-perfect
by Tin Jung Shea of Sydney’s Japanese pressed sandwiches
Yakitori Yurippi. in his cookbook, Cult Sando.

Chicken and spring onion Pork cutlet, tonkatsu sauce

skewers .................................92 and white cabbage ........... 111
Miso glaze .................................92 Agedashi tofu with
Zucchini skewers .................... 93 tsuyu sauce .......................... 112
Onigiri .........................................93 Hokkaido scallop katsu and
Scallops in half shell ...............95 green onion nori ................112
Okra with ponzu and Black sesame ice-cream with
bonito flakes .........................95 red bean ..............................113
Tare .............................................. 95
Pork shiso skewers................. 96
Cabbage salad ......................... 96
Chicken meatball
skewers.................................. 97
Potato salad .............................. 97

98 WASHOKU IN MOTION
A collection of thoughtful
Japanese recipes inspired
by the traditional concept
of washoku.

Crisp pork and ginger gyozas

with sesame rayu .............. 100
Mushroom miso soup .......... 102
Grilled salmon tataki with lime
and jalapeño ponzu...........103
Slow-cooked teriyaki
beef ribs ............................... 105
The
Black sesame
Japan
issue crème brûlée ...................... 106
Pear and green apple winter
slaw ....................................... 106
Trio of Japanese pickles.......107

6 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
 MAY 2023 Features
ON THE COVER RAMEN SECRETS
Yakitori Yurippi recipes, p90
68 Hunt down the best ramen Tokyo has to offer
with Alexandra Carlton.
Recipe Tin Jung Shea
Photography Ben Dearnley
HOW TO HOST A HIBACHI PARTY
Styling Steve Pearce
72 Lee Tran Lam shares what makes a hibachi party
so much more than just a char-grilled picnic.
SUBSCRIBE
A COOKING CLASS OF ITS OWN
76
magshop.com.au/GMT
Details p86 Katie Spain on how taking an intimate cooking class
in Japan unearthed unexpected cultural delights.

THE FULL SQUID

Drinks 80 Ben Devlin embraces the Japanese art of gyotaku

from the ocean to his restaurant walls.

43 DRINKS NEWS New openings and expert tips.

46
49
WINE PEOPLE Noguchi Naohiko.
JAPANESE WHISKY Samantha Payne explains.
Travel
NEW FASHIONED KYOTO
52
53
COCKTAIL HOUR Whisky Highball.
MADE IN JAPAN Ned Goodwin’s top drops.
116 Kyoto may be famous for its deep-rooted cultural
traditions, but a new generation is out to change the story.

Regulars
PHOTOGRAPHY BEN DEARNLEY (YAKITORI YURIPPI). YUKA YANAZUME (KYOTO).

13 UPFRONT Editor’s letter and news.

28 FIVE OF A KIND Miso.
30 A QUICK WORD Nashen Moodley.
32 THE KITCHEN GARDENER Medlars.
34 COMMUNITY X KYLIE Sara Mansour.
A TASTE OF TOKYO
37
55
REVIEW Dining out.
EVERYDAY Simple, fast everyday meals.
124 Eat and drink your way across Japan’s busiest city
with Paul Ewart’s guide.

66 MASTERCLASS Okonomiyaki. EXPLORING HIROSHIMA

122 THE ART OF TRAVEL Making the practical perfect. 128 Stephen Corby goes from devastation to delight with
chef Ben Shewry in Hiroshima.
134 CHECKING IN Kimpton Shinjuku Tokyo.
ROAD LESS TRAVELLED
146
154
STYLE Home, fashion and beauty.
OBJECTS OF DESIRE Cameras.
136 These off-the-beaten-track Japanese destinations are
the perfect cultural stops after Tokyo and Osaka.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 7
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 D ED
FIN I
HARD TO

Joanna Hunkin
Editor

Deputy Editor Anna McCooe

Acting Art Director Jacqui Triggs
Designer Holly Doran
Creative Consultant Hannah Blackmore

Words
Senior Sub-editor Suzanna Chriss
News Editor Jordan Kretchmer
Editorial Coordinator Charlotte Wishart

Food
Group Food Director Sophia Young
Senior Food Editor Dominic Smith

Digital
Digital Managing Editor Jayde Malifa
Digital Editor Cordelia Williamson

Contributors
Alexandra Carlton, Stephen Corby, Fiona Donnelly, Paul Ewart,
Ned Goodwin, Michael Harden, Anna Hart, Matty Hirsch,
Kylie Kwong, Lee Tran Lam, Jane Lawson, Samantha Payne,
Simon Rickard, Katie Spain, Max Veenhuyzen.

@gourmettraveller

askgourmet@aremedia.com.au

GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU

Zen living
1 Muslin linen napkins set in Natural, $89.
2 Japanese incense with holder, $87.
3 Seconds watch in Silver, $429.
4 Cushion cover in Obsidian Stripe, $79.90.
hardtofind.com.au/GT
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10 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
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 Editor’s letter

It took me nearly 40 years to make my way to Japan

Editor’s letter
for the first time – not helped by a certain pandemic,
which curtailed a few plans along the way. When
I finally touched down in Tokyo last year, I was
thrilled to discover the bright lights and frenetic
SUBSCRIBE NOW energy were every bit as dazzling as I’d hoped. Being
magshop.com.au/gmt swept along in a tide of humans down Takeshita
Details p86 Street in Harajuku, drowning in colour and chaos,
was exactly what I’d imagined Tokyo to be.
What I hadn’t quite anticipated, however, was
the deep sense of serenity that manages to co-exist
in the city; the moments of stillness and calm that
greet you unexpectedly, bringing welcome balance
to your day.
And while this wasn’t what drew me to Tokyo
initially, it will definitely be the reason I return –
and venture further afield to explore other regions
of Japan and discover their unique personalities
and energy.
In this, our third annual Japan issue, we called
on both locals and repeat visitors to share their inside
secrets and help uncover some of Japan’s lesser-known
delights. From Tokyo’s ramen secrets to the coastal
hideaway of Kochi, you’ll find plenty of inspiration
for your next Japanese odyssey. Because one visit
will never be enough.

R ME OTHER
OU M

’S
WHAT GT LOVES THIS MONTH
G

DAY
P
ED
A

PROV

Wüsthof Classic Colour Series Tudor Royal

Continuing this year’s trend of bold With two delicious new dial colours
colour in the kitchen, German knife joining the Tudor Royal family –
brand Wüsthof has launched a new chocolate brown and salmon –
colour series, featuring five striking this sport-chic wrist piece is
shades, including coral peach. perfect for everyday elegance.
PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS COURT (PORTRAIT).

wusthof.com.au tudorwatch.com

Shibori Studio
Australian designers Karen GT subscription
Davis and Pepa Martin use Give the gift of inspiration and
the Japanese art of shibori to escapism this Mother’s Day, with
create unique, one-of-a-kind a subscription to Gourmet Traveller.
fabrics, homewares and artworks The best part? Every month, they
at their Stanmore studio. receive a fresh reminder that you care.
shibori.com.au magshop.com.au/gmt

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 15
 Dishes and destinations
The Gourmet Traveller team share where
they’ve been and what they’re eating.

Mount Fuji, Japan

There is an indelible feeling of wonder at the
foot of Japan’s tallest summit. At the base
you’ll find onsens, blooming sakura and warm
hospitality, only adding to the impressive
majestry of this natural, symmetrical beauty.
Jordan Kretchmer, news editor

Marriott Momi Bay Resort, Fiji

A.I.R. Myoko, Niigata, Japan Overwater villas, poolside Piña Coladas
Luke Burgess’ residency at this boutique and lush greenery equate to tropical
ryokan in Akakura Onsen was a hit, not island bliss at Momi Bay. Set around
least because he has a knack for a lagoon, backdropped by volcanic
unearthing pristine local produce. Case hills, it’s easy to slip into island time
in point: this delicatel tofu, with a bold here (possibly aided by kava).
sauce buzzing with kanzuri, Niigata’s Cordelia Williamson, digital editor
famous snow-fermented chilli paste.
Max Veenhuyzen, WA state editor

Promenade Bondi Beach, Sydney a’Mare, Sydney

Moreton Bay bugs and golden brioche amp
up the wow-factor in this elegant take on
prawn toast. It’s one of several delicious
reasons to visit Bondi’s newest resident,
which serves up A-grade people-watching
alongside superb snacks and share plates.
Anna McCooe, deputy editor
Sundried tomato is the secret hero in
this capasanta gratinata (scallop gratin),
bringing an unexpected hit of umami
to the decadent appetiser. Alongside it,
New Zealand scampi are topped in
a vibrant garlic and herb crumb.
Joanna Hunkin, editor

16 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
 IRASSHAIMASE!
Restaurant openings in Sydney,
Melbourne and Brisbane, Oz Harvest’s
big night out, the best matcha to buy,
and Tokyo’s hottest hotels.

Amuro

20
PHOTOGRAPHY TOMO OKAI.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 19

T H E L AT E ST F R O M C H E F S A N D R E STAU R A N TS A R O U N D AU ST R A L I A
R E S TA U R A N T N E W S
SYDNEY
Kei Tokiwa (ex-Chaco Bar and Sekka
Dining) is bringing his love and
knowledge of sake and snacks to
Darlinghurst with the opening of Amuro.
Drawing on his time living in Tokyo,
Tokiwa oversees this intimate 20-seat
spot, where a hand-written menu may
behold chicken karaage, Hokkaido
scallops with umeboshi dressing and
sobacha (buckwheat tea), and ama ebi
(sweet prawn) with yuzu and wasabi
stem. You won’t find a sake list, but
instead the opportunity to chat through
your tastes and wants with the team to
find a sake to suit you, drawing upon
the “Ichigen-san, o-kotowari” style of
service common in Japan.
In more Japanese openings,
Chatswood has welcomed a high-end
Clockwise from above: Armorica’s shabu shabu restaurant Hanasuki. Chef
foie gras torchon with fruit bread;
Takashi Yamamoto showcases five
Darlinghurst’s Amuro; and the
dining room at Hanasuki. protein options (like kurobuta pork belly;
or marbled wagyu sirloin) alongside
20 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
unlimited organic veggies, each to be
swished around in a rolling dashi broth,
flavoured with kombu, bonito and dried
shiitake mushrooms. This can be joined
by seared bonito or cuttlefish sashimi;
and finished off with zosui, a Japanese-
style congee made using the broth.
Over in Surry Hills Armorica Grande
Brasserie is the third restaurant from
Andrew Becher, the owner of Franca and
Parlar in Potts Point. Taking over the
former Toko space on Crown Street, the
150-seat venue is underscored by North
of France flavours and wood-fired
cooking. Executive chef José Saulog is
on board again and devotes a hunk of
the menu to steak frites, showcasing
different cuts of Australian beef and
lamb from Gundagai. While it’s a slightly
more casual affair than Becher’s first
two restaurants, you can still expect
glitzy seafood towers, intimate booths
and schmick interiors, including timber
ceilings, brass gantries and original
art by The New Yorker illustrator,
David Plunkert.
In the CBD, Oti – an Italian sandwich
and pizza bar by the chefs behind Totti’s
– will soon open in the former Lorraine’s
Patisserie site. “It’s a fast little corner
spot where we’ll be making Roman-style
pizza by the slice,” says chef Mike
Eggert. “There will also be freshly baked
schiacciata bread, for simple fresh
Italian-style sandwiches, with meat
sliced straight into the sandwiches or
onto the hot slab pizza.”
 News

MELBOURNE
The team behind Heartattack and Vine
has opened a new day-to-night eatery
on a sunny corner in Carlton, called
Sunhands. The multi-faceted café-deli-
wine bar sees head chef Pat Drapac
(Bar Romantica and Old Palm Liquor)
concocting a menu of seasonal small
plates that go from suiting a latte
to minimal intervention wine. After
launching as a daytime venue, the team
has recently extended hours into the
evening, with snacky plates including
oysters with mignonette; pickled
octopus; baked ricotta with agrodolce;
mussel escabeche; and an ever-
changing handmade pasta.
Nearby in Collingwood, Maha North
is the next evolution of Shane Delia’s
restaurant stable. Refocusing and
replicating the menu of sister venue
Maha East, the northside iteration will BRISBANE
include king prawn kataifi; crunchy Woolloongabba’s South City Square is
chickpea fried zucchini flowers; and continuing to carve its name out as an
Lebanese garlic dumplings with upcoming food and drink hub, with the
poached leeks and spiced chicken. arrival of a Euro-inspired neighbourhood
bar, South City Wine. Following the
success of the team’s nearby Casa
Chow, the venue leans into natural
wines, fine Champagne and bistro meals.
With swish old world-inspired interiors
(think green marble tabletops, dark
timber panelling and oil paintings), the
worldly wine list will be joined by bites
including chicken liver parfait; snails
Clockwise from
à la Bourguignonne with garlic butter;
below: a spread and duck breast à l’orange.
at Maha North; Next door, the same team is behind
chef Shane Delia; Purple Palm, a peppy Palm Springs-
Sunhands’
channelling, gin-focused bar. While
snacks; and its
team; Brisbane’s alfresco cocktails are the speciality here
South City Wine. (the open-air venue is a collaboration
with Adelaide Hills distillery, 78 Degrees),
PHOTOGRAPHY JUDIT LOSH (SOUTH CITY WINE).

guests at Purple Palm can order small

plates of charcuterie and cheese from
South City Wine too.
Finally, West End is now home
to luxe izakaya, Ippin. Kick off with
“popcorn” lobster bites and snow crab
chawanmushi, before ordering from
the raw bar section that spans salmon
sashimi and spicy tuna rolls; or the
robata grill menu of prawn skewers,
wagyu steak and barbecued coral
trout with sansho and shichimi rub.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 21
News
OD
O
FEELG
Clockwise from below:
OzHarvest Community Cookoff
volunteers don aprons; and
prepare meals; Aria chef Matt
Moran with OzHarvest founder
Ronni Kahn and volunteers at
the Community Cookoff 2022.
22 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
FOO
D
HARVEST BOON
Almost everyone has felt the rising cost of living impact their lives recently but the
people who access OzHarvest’s services, are feeling it more than anyone. “In my
19 years working in this space, I have never seen the need as great as it is now,”
says founder Ronni Kahn, who has 600 charities on the program’s waiting list.
OzHarvest has long been at the frontline of fighting food insecurity, using
rescued produce to provide food relief while combatting waste. Each year the
program hosts a headline fundraiser to aid these services, with this year’s event
being the Community Cookoff. The concept empowers food fans and philanthropic
members of the public to fundraise for OzHarvest. Those that do will get to step into
the kitchen with some of the country’s best chefs at restaurants including Aria,
Margaret, Lankan Filling Station, Rockpool Bar & Grill, Da Orazio, and Kitchen by Mike.
Each of these venues will then transform into community dining spaces, similar to
OzHarvest’s own community hub and restaurant, Refettorio in Surry Hills. Kahn
explains, “Our Refettorio is a beautiful space that anyone can come to and have
a beautiful, free meal that’s been made with love and dignity. We thought, ‘What if
this year we ask our chefs to host people?’” This win-win scenario not only grants
fundraisers access to cook in some of Australia’s best kitchens, it also gives them the
chance to enjoy this food alongside OzHarvest’s participants in some of Australia’s
most incredible dining rooms. “It’s an opportunity to break bread with people who
you wouldn’t usually. And to find out, they are exactly like you,” says Kahn.
While many restaurants have filled up fast, there’s still an opportunity for
fundraisers to get involved. “This community model broadens the ability to participate;
and we’re sharing the love with chefs in their spaces and encouraging people to
come into their spaces,” says Kahn.
PHOTOGRAPHY JOHN PUAH.
The Community Cookoff will take place across the country, with Cutler & Co on
board in Melbourne; Biànca in Brisbane; as well as restaurants in Adelaide and Perth.
“We support organisations that support youth, single mums and low income families.
It’s across the board,” says Kahn. “When you think that six million Australians at some
point need food relief – and 300,600 families need food relief on any given day in
Australia, these numbers are significant.” communitycookoff.com.au
 Cathay Pacific has opened a spacious new lounge at
Tokyo’s Narita airport, which will welcome Oneworld
Alliance travellers, including Qantas frequent flyers.
cathaypacific.com.au

2 1

MOCHI MASTER

3
Sydney-based mochi maker Elliot
Tu has long loved the rice-dough
based dessert, growing up
M ATC H A

watching his family prepare freshly

made batches. “My siblings and
I would help pound and stretch

1
Yukiro
small batches of mochis,” says Tu.
THREE OF THE BEST

Recommended for koicha (a stronger, thicker

These days you can try this style of tea) and cold brew, this ceremonial
grade matcha is made in small batches from young
nostalgic treat through Mochipang,
leaves, resulting in a less bitter, smooth tea.
a handcrafted mochi dessert range. zenwondersmatcha.com.au
He takes inspiration from different

2
St Matcha Yutaka
cultures to put a twist on the
This premium verdant green organic matcha
traditional daifuku. “Traditional powder is made in Kyoto and possesses a subtly
mochis consist of anko (red bean sweet and earthy flavour. Use in a thinner style of
paste) filling. Our fresh fruits are matcha (usucha) or a modern matcha latte.
stmatcha.com.au
also choppped into bite-sized

3
chunks rather than a singular piece Orchard St Matcha
to ensure every element of the Juice, tea and tonic bar Orchard St imports an
impressive Kyoto-made matcha tea. Best paired
mochi is savoured in every bite.” with a ceremonial whisk, this tea is a well-balanced,
mochipang.com versatile option. orchardstreet.com.au

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 23

L
HOTE
Clockwise from above: vegetable
tempura at the Gold Bar, Tokyo
Edition Toranomon; the luxe interiors
at the Gold Bar; the 40th floor of
Bulgari Hotel Tokyo.
24 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
NEWS
LATEST EDITIONS
As Tokyo remains Japan’s number one
place for Australian tourists to visit, a new
generation of hotels is a welcome arrival.
This latest high-end accommodation
straddles the Western market while still
tapping into deft Eastern sensibilities.
The Tokyo Edition Toranomon, which
opened in 2020, is a forward-thinking
example of this. The hotel is an offshoot
brand overseen by Ian Schrager, who
helped to forge some of the world’s first
boutique hotels and was the co-owner of
New York’s iconic Studio 54. This groovy
integrity remains true throughout the
hotel, from the street-style photography
of Tokyo’s young and hip in the ’70s, to
the sound system, which is a masterclass
in subtlety and mood making.
The calmly lit lobby and spacious rooms
strike a surprising contrast to the city
– famed for its bright lights and compact
spaces – instead taking on a calming,
Japanese minimalist aesthetic, with
wood panelling, open green spaces
and sprawling views out towards the
Tokyo Tower.
The Toranomon location is the first
of two Edition Hotels to arrive in Tokyo,
with the Tokyo Edition Ginza set to
open in the latter half of 2023.
Over in Chuo city, the Bulgari Hotel
Tokyo is the newest luxury outpost to
open. With views over to the swarming
Tokyo Station, the Imperial Palace
Gardens and even out to Mount Fuji on
clear days, the luxe hotel is perched 40
floors above the city. Milan-based
architectural studio Antonio Citterio
Patricia Viel oversaw the design of the
rooms and entry, taking cues from Italian
design, all while interweaving local
tastes and paying homage to the lauded
luxury jewellery house.
Alongside the Kimpton Shinjuku
Tokyo (see p134), these openings
usher in a new balance of elegance
and design without foregoing Japanese
ideologies and style.
editionhotels.com/tokyo-toranomon;
bulgarihotels.com
 News

OMAKASE UP
Omakase restaurants are
notoriously hard to book – in
particular Sydney’s Sokyo.
Now one of Australia’s most
in demand chef ’s table has
introduced a ballot system.
Known for booking out within
hours of releasing seats, the new
system will offer diners another
chance at scoring a seat.
sokyodining.com.au
PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS BERNABEO (ALISON ROMAN) & SAMANTHA ROSE (SOKYO).

BOOK AHEAD
Trafalgar focuses on multi-city,
experience-led trips, with luxury
coaches and lush destinations.
Itineraries for this year are on
sale now, with excellent value
journeys across Germany, Italy,
Spain, Ireland and beyond. Trips
include accommodation, flights,
some meals, local specialist tour
guides and more, making your
trip cohesive and hassle-free.
flightcentre.com.au
ROMAN HOLIDAY
Delicious and divisive, Alison Roman’s recipes captured
much of the internet back in 2020, while her best-selling
cookbooks set the agenda for dinner parties galore.
Embracing a fuss-free, fast and loose cooking style, Roman
didn’t simply tap into the zeitgeist; she created it (so much
so, many of her recipes are known simply as #thepasta and
#thecookie) and ushered a new generation of home cooks
into the kitchen. This May, Roman will make her way from the
Big Apple to Australia, diving into the art of recipe writing, her
appreciation for anchovies, dinner party must-dos and more,
with an appearance at Melbourne Writers Festival on May 5;
followed by Brisbane Powerhouse on May 7; and finally a talk
at the Sydney Opera House hosted by Melissa Leong on May 9.
mwf.com.au; brisbanepowerhouse.org; sydneyoperahouse.com

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 25
News

Clockwise from below:
Coyoacán Social chef
Roman Cortes with his
mother Maru Navarro;
snacks and a spread at
Coyoacán Social.
SOCIAL CANTINA
South Eveleigh has been forging its
name as a leading food precinct since it
opened in late 2021, and now with the
arrival of Coyoacán Social it will further
embolden this status. The Mexican
cantina is the latest venture from Plate It
Forward, a social enterprise dedicated
to creating equal opportunity across
the table.
Coyoacán Social is overseen by head
chef Roman Cortes, who through his lived
experience of addiction is ready to help
with Plate It Forward’s giving ethos.
Food will be central to this, with Cortes
bringing recipes from his family to the
menu. Drawing upon his time growing up
in Mexico City and his mother’s birthplace
of Coyoacán, the menu will explore how
food fosters connection and helped
Cortes on his own recovery journey.
Casual, colourful, flavourful eats will
underpin the menu – think birria tacos,
served with a rich accompanying beef
dipping broth; cochinita pibil, which sees
a corn tortilla topped with pickled onions
and pineapple and habanero sauce; and
flautas deep, where tortillas are stuffed
with cheese, salsa verde and chipotle
chicken, then deep fried. These will be
joined by salad bowls, an array of vibrant
salsas and horchata.
Like all of Plate It Forward’s other
venues, each meal purchased will result
in meals being donated to the wider
community, and they also plan to donate
meals to the centre in Mexico where
Cortes began his recovery. With
a connection to the greater Eveleigh
and Redfern areas already established
with Plate It Forward donating more than
150,000 meals to local communities,
this forward-thinking restaurant will
hopefully create a blueprint for how
other food precincts can incorporate
socially minded businesses across
Australia. coyoacansocial.com

NORTHERN EXPOSURE
This year Holland America’s Alaskan cruises set sail
with a new sustainability certification, exclusively
serving fresh, certified traceable Alaskan seafood.
As the first cruise line to earn the credential, it marks
Holland America’s special connection to Alaska and
coincides with the cruise line’s 150th anniversary.
hollandamerica.com

26 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

WORDS CHARLOTTE WISHART (ON THE PASS). PHOTOGRAPHY RHIANNON HOPLEY (COYOACÁN SOCIAL) & EVE WILSON (SHIN KATO).
When did you first learn how to cook? When I was a kid, both of
my parents worked full-time jobs, so I had to learn how to make
lunch and dinner for myself. But on the weekends, my parents
would be at home so I took lessons from them and learned how
to make our hometown’s signature dishes. My favourite is
a soy-based soup called imoni in Japanese, which is made
using local Yamagata beef and taro.
You grew up in the Yamagata prefecture of Japan, do you have
w i t h S H I N K ATO, I S H I Z U K A
any early food memories from your hometown? I have so many
fond memories of the local food festival, which celebrated the
imoni soup. The imoni would be made in a really enormous pot,
about six metres wide, and there would be enough soup to
serve around 30,000 people. They even have to use specially
adapted excavator machines to stir the soup. It’s really amazing.
Now in Australia, you’re the head chef at Ishizuka in
Melbourne; how would you describe the menu? As a Japanese
chef working in Australia, my goal has been to incorporate
a traditional Japanese style of cooking and flavours with native
O N T H E PA S S
Australian ingredients. So not quite traditional Japanese, but
also not quite a fusion. At the moment I’m experimenting with
kangaroo tail, and I’m hoping to bring that to the menu.
Have you had any difficulty adapting Australian produce to
Japanese cuisine? Yes. The texture and size of produce can
vary depending on a country’s environment, so I’ve had to adjust
to that. I’m really proud of everything that we have on the menu
here at Ishizuka, and it’s been so rewarding to bring the two
cultures together.
ishizuka.com.au
EXPLORE JAPANESE
CULINARY CULTURE
IMMERSE YOURSELF IN JAPANESE
CUISINE AND CULTURE WITH
OCEANIA CRUISES, THE
WORLD’S LEADING CULINARY-
FOCUSED CRUISE LINE.
From freshly made steamed udon noodles to
skilfully carved sashimi, traditional Japanese
food has long been lauded for its precision in
preparation and complexity of f lavour. Now,
a new, expertly curated Land of the Rising Sun
itinerary, from leading culinary-focused cruise line
Oceania Cruises, offers the chance to explore the
mastery of modern Japanese cuisine.
From Tokyo’s neon-filtered streets, where
you’ll find more Michelin-starred restaurants
than anywhere else in the world, to Kyoto’s serene
Buddhist temples and famous pressed mackerel
sushi, this 12-day sojourn focuses on the best of
ancient and modern Japanese food and culture.
Culinary highlights include Kofukuji Temple
in Nagasaki, with homemade food prepared in
traditional fucha ryori style; the ritualistic Way
of the Tea ceremony at Tokaido Hiroshige Art
Museum; freshly pressed, unpasteurised sake at
a sake museum in Osaka; and Kashi-no-Ichi,
Shimizu’s famous fish market on the waterfront.
A day trip to Korea offers fresh seafood at Jagalchi
Fish Market, and local street food from Gukje
Market, Korea’s largest traditional market.
“THE BREADTH
OF CULINARY
AND CULTUR AL
EXPERIENCES ON
THIS EXCEPTIONAL
12-DAY CRUISE IS
UNPAR ALLELED.”
Jason Worth, Vice President Sales &
General Manager, Oceania Cruises
Travelling aboard the 1238-guest luxury ship
Riviera, the culinary highlights continue with
beautifully crafted, regionally inspired epicurean
experiences, curated by some of the most
talented chefs from around the globe. Learn
what's on offer for taste-focused travellers at
oceaniacruises.com/culinary.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 27
Five of a kind

Miso
This fermented soybean and rice paste is
fundamental to Japanese cuisine. MERU MISO
SWEET WHITE SHIRO MISO
This shorter fermented style of shiro
miso is sweeter on the palate than
other varieties, almost reminiscent of
a hard cheese thanks to its acidity and
saltiness. This chunky miso can be
TEAM
GT strained after making a soup base;
FERMENSTATION

FA
or used straight up in salad dressings.

VOURI
ORGANIC CHILLI MISO
$11.69 for 350gm, harrisfarm.com.au
A subtle infusion of chilli brings out TE
the fruity sweetness of this small
batch paste. While the chilli addition
could pigeonhole this product, it instead KURA ORGANIC MISO PASTE
adds to its versatility, creating a complex This solid pantry staple possesses
base for marinades. Equally delicious a salty umami flavour and a smooth,
spread simply on hot toast with butter. even texture. Given its salt-forward
$25 for 240gm, fermenstation.com.au make up, it makes for an excellent
marinade, as it tenderises the protein
while delivering serious flavour.
RICE CULTURE ORGANIC MISO $5.29 for 200gm, harrisfarm.com.au
This textured, dense red miso paste is
unpasteurised and packs a punch with
a salty, malty umami flavour profile. The
Gold Coast-based fermenters have
been making misos for more than
a decade, originally inspired to make
their own miso with local ingredients,
after the Fukushima nuclear disaster
made them question the supply chain.
$11.80 for 220gm, riceculture.com.au

ENOKIDO MISO
Created by Japanese chef Shinji
Hiraoka, this brown rice miso has
become a favourite at market stalls in

WORDS JORDAN KRETCHMER. PHOTOGRAPHPY KRISTINA SOLJO. STYLING HOLLY DORAN.

Sydney and beyond. The brown rice
creates a stronger, more earthy taste.
Like all good unpasteurised miso,
it should be stored in the fridge to
prevent further fermentation.
$18 for 200gm, enokidomiso.com.au

28 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
 A G o u r m e t Tr a v e l l e r r e a d e r e v e n t

TICKETS
ON SALE
NOW THE MENU
On Arrival
Arak Orchard Highball
Arak, gin, cucumber, all spice,
apple and pear soda

Entrée

AN EGYPTIAN Beef nayyeh, rhubarb,

black cardamom
Tuna, murri, Aleppo pepper

ADVENTURE Eggplant mes‘a’aha, spiced tomato

Khorasan pita
2021 Petit Couvent White,
Bekaa Valley
Join Gourmet Traveller editor Joanna Hunkin and
luxury travel specialists Abercrombie & Kent for an evening of Main
Lamb neck shawarma,
adventure and intrigue at Aalia in Sydney’s CBD. tarator, pickles, saida saj
Steamed coral trout,
A land of majestic ruins, temples and tombs, Egypt has long captivated travellers’ toum butter, burnt milk
imaginations. But there’s much more to this ancient land than just pyramids and Watercress salata, pomelo, sumac
Pharaohs. Join us as we learn more about this vibrant destination and the many delights Aged rice muammar
it holds in store – both old and new.
2021 Doluca DLC Kalecik Karasi,
For more than six decades, Abercrombie & Kent has set the standard for luxury
Ankara
travel, offering carefully curated itineraries designed to immerse you in Egypt’s ancient
history while ensuring your absolute comfort and pleasure. Dessert
Brik pastry, salted cashew,
We’ll be joined by Aalia’s executive chef Paul Farag, who will share his own Egyptian colocasia dulce
heritage through an elegant and exciting tasting menu of Levantine cuisine, exclusive to Tea & coffee
Gourmet Traveller readers. Highlights will include his signature lamb neck shawarma,
and eggplant mesa’a’ha with spiced tomato, served alongside a selection of fine wines,
handpicked by Aalia’s head sommelier Eleonore Wulf.
The name Aalia comes from the Arabic word for sublime and we have no doubt
this special evening will be just that. Invite your friends for a group adventure as we
explore the wonders of Egypt and beyond. Every guest will also receive a special gift
bag to take home.

VENUE: Aalia, 25 Martin Place, Sydney

Brought to you by Abercrombie & Kent
DATE: Tuesday, 6th June 2023
TIME: 6.30pm
PRICE: $125pp including shared tasting menu with complimentary wines
TO BOOK: visit gourmetreaderdinner.eventbrite.com.au
or email rsvpgt@aremedia.com.au

SCAN THE QR CODE TO BOOK YOUR TICKETS AT GOURMETREADERDINNER.EVENTBRITE.COM.AU

 Interview CHARLOTTE WISHART

D WIT
OR
H
QUI K W

NASHEN
C

M O O DL E Y
A

The director of the Sydney

Film Festival on learning to
cook from the heart, loving
cinema of all kinds and his
favourite place to eat in Tokyo.

I grew up in Durban, South Africa with Indian

heritage, so the food I was raised on was quite
diverse. Barbecue, or braai as it’s known locally,
is very popular in South Africa. It was one of my
favourite things to eat before I came to Australia
13 years ago. I love barbecuing here when I can
but it’s never quite the same. And of course the
same is true of South African Indian cuisine, like
Durban lamb curry or bunny chow, the taste of
which is quite different to traditional Indian food.

When I arrived in Australia. I really missed some

of the Indian food that I grew up with. So when
I would go back to South Africa, I’d be sure to
take lessons from my mum or from one of my
mum’s nine sisters, who are all very good cooks
with specialties in different things.

30 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

My mum and aunties would give me recipes
to take back to Australia but their instructions
would say, “when it’s half-cooked, do this.”
And I’m thinking, “What? What does ‘half-cooked’
mean?” Or they’ll have written, “add enough of
these ingredients.” What is enough? In the
end, I applied a slightly more scientific method
to recreating their recipes by watching and
recording them cook, so that’s how I got there.
It’s a taste of home, just not quite as good.
When I’m travelling, I try to eat the food of the
local culture. At times, my go-to in many places
might be Italian food, because it seems to be
so well represented and generally well done in
most countries. But I’m more interested in finding
intriguing restaurants that showcase the local
cuisine. Connecting with the food of that culture
in both a fine dining and a casual setting, is the
real joy in travelling.
Some of my favourite food experiences have
been in Tokyo. There’s an alley near Shibuya
station called Drunkard’s Alley, mostly made up
of bars. Along that alley there’s a little place that
has just eight seats, run by one woman, Shisiro-
san, who makes really excellent food. She cooks
whatever she finds in the market that day, so it’s
always different, but whatever it is, it’s always
fantastic. The first thing I do whenever I get to
Japan is to try to get there as quickly as possible
and eat what she feeds me.
Food, like cinema, is a universal way to connect
with others. At Shisiro-san’s restaurant, there’s
a really comfortable and homey feel to it. It’s
such a tiny space but there is a little upstairs area
above where she cooks, but of course because
it’s just her working, there’s no one serving these
people. So they just shout down their orders, and
Shisiro-san will cook it and then pass the plates
to the people sitting at the bar to pass to those
sitting above. Everyone feels very connected
and very warm.
Memories
That’s the really wonderful
thing about cinema; how in
just 90 minutes, you can
see something that can
lead to a profound change
in how you view things.
I hate the phrase “guilty pleasure” but I love
sweets. Any kind of sweets. It’s not a good habit,
but I love them. When I go to a restaurant I always
look at the dessert menu first and then plan my
meal accordingly. If it’s something that brings you
joy, then it should be thoroughly enjoyed – just
like films.
Cinema can be such a vibrant and creative art
form and at Sydney Film Festival we want people
to see these films and to debate them. We want
to find films that are going to challenge people,
and create a dialogue. That's the really wonderful
thing about cinema; how in just 90 minutes, you
can see something that can lead to a profound
change in your life and how you view things,
just based on the ideas that were presented
in that film.
We’re not trying to find the one film that will
appeal to every single person. We want to find
the most exciting and interesting films that are
being made across the world today, and we also
want to showcase films from different parts of the
world that might not be as well known. What we
really try to do is to bring the entire world of
cinema, in all its variety and diversity, to Sydney
over just 12 days. It’s a mammoth task, but it’s
a worthwhile labour of love. 
The Sydney Film Festival runs from June 7-18. sff.org.au
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 31
 T CH EN GARD
K I EN
E ER
TH

Medlars
Historically, the butt of literary jokes, this strange
fruit is an acquired taste, writes SIMON RICKARD.

T
he medlar has been the butt of bawdy jokes for centuries.
It’s the smutty clown of the fruit world, which makes us
laugh at the absurdity of our own human frailties.
Jokes about medlars stem from two unusual features
of the fruit: their appearance, and their ripening habit. Medlar fruits
are hemispherical and, frankly, poo-brown. The blossom end of the
fruit is a little concave and puckered, reminiscent of… let’s just say
somewhere the sun doesn’t shine. Indeed, the French nickname
for the medlar is “cul de chien”: literally “dog’s bottom”.
Medlar fruits are too hard and astringent to be eaten straight
from the tree. They need to be placed in a basket and left indoors
for a couple of weeks until they become soft and translucent. This
process is known as “bletting”, from the French word “blet”,
meaning “overripe”. Once “bletted”, you can peel back the skin and
scoop out the soft flesh.
Though obscure today, medlars were once very well known. The
Persians, Greeks and Romans all mention them. Geoffrey Chaucer
used them as a metaphor for the irony of old men gaining wisdom
only as their bodies begin to fall apart, in his famous Canterbury
ILLUSTRATION GETTY IMAGES.

32 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
 Grow your own

fruits hanging in the sinuous branches long after

What does a freshly bletted
the foliage has fallen.
medlar taste like? A slightly Only two varieties of medlar are commonly
musty, slightly gritty encountered, wide-spreading “Dutch” and upright
stewed apple. It’s certainly “Nottingham”. If you have a choice, get your tree
grafted onto quince, rather than a hawthorn
an acquired taste. rootstock, lest you end up with a spiky forest
of hawthorn suckers.
Finally, what does a freshly bletted medlar
taste like? The best approximation is a slightly
musty, slightly gritty stewed apple. It’s certainly
an acquired taste. But I have discovered that the
best way to acquire it is to enjoy a handful of
Tales. William Shakespeare makes four references medlars on a cheese platter, with a ripe blue
to medlars, including in Romeo and Juliet. If you cheese and a glass of port, set before a crackling
don’t remember it from school, it’s because the fire. A mellow way to spend an autumn evening,
Bard used the same medieval slang term for them with the absurd medlar reminding us not to take
as Chaucer did two centuries earlier, “open-arse”, ourselves too seriously. 
a term which was later censored by high-minded
Victorian editors. In As You Like It, Rosalind notes
“for you’ll be rotten ere you be half ripe, and that’s
the right virtue of the medlar”. A contemporary
playwright of Shakespeare’s, Thomas Dekker,
noted that “woman are like medlars, no sooner
ripe but rotten” in one of his plays.
In addition to their ribald literary value,
medlars have several more civilised qualities.
Like their relative the quince, medlars were
used for making sweetmeats. In Victorian Britain
they were stewed with sugar and spices, and
reduced to a thick paste called “medlar cheese”.
Medlar cheese was set in dainty, ornamental
moulds and served at banquets. Persian recipes
frequently pair meats with fruits, including the
medlar, which is indigenous to that region.
You’ll never see this strange little fruit for
sale at the supermarket. If you want to try it,
you’ll have to grow your own. Medlars are native
to the Balkans, up through the Caucasus and
Iran, into Central Asia, so they thrive in most
parts of southern Australia and New Zealand.
Medlars make a superb four-seasons tree for
Simon is a small gardens. In spring they bear large, white
professional blossoms. In summer they are covered in
gardener, generous, dark greenery. In autumn, not only
author and
baroque
do they bear their unique fruits, but their foliage
bassoonist. turns brilliant shades of yellow, pink and red. In
@simon_rickard winter, the tree has a pleasing gnarled form, the

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 33
 SARA
MANSOUR
Kylie Kwong celebrates the individuals
helping to grow a stronger community.
This month, we meet poet and lawyer Sara
Mansour of the Bankstown Poetry Slam.

I first met lawyer and poet

Sara Mansour through our
participation in the 22nd
Biennale of Sydney, “NIRIN”
exhibition (thanks to artistic
director Brook Andrew). Sara
invited me to Bankstown
Poetry Slam. Listening to the exceptional poets
on stage, opening their hearts in the very safe

space Sara has helped to create, I learnt so
much about the many challenges faced when
integrating into communities outside of
one’s homeland. Beyond this, the slam was
a reminder of Western Sydney’s rich cultural
diversity, which overflows with creativity.
S
ara Mansour has the spotlight. Standing
against the dark backdrop, the silk hijab that
frames her features catches the light. She
approaches the microphone and the audience
braces. Because when this wordsmith has something
to say, she compounds it into two minutes of pure,
spoken-word power.
The scene is the Bankstown Arts Centre. And
a crowd of 300 has gathered for the Bankstown Poetry
Slam, which Mansour co-founded in February 2013.
She speaks in verse, hitting each word of her My

34 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
 Australia poem like a heartbeat right up to the big
finish. “My Australia is Home When the rest of
the world says no.” The audience snaps (the slam
poetry preferred applause method). And so it goes,
we have an understanding.
Mansour, 29, is a lawyer and poet who lives in
Western Sydney. She grew up in Punchbowl in the
echoes of 9/11, the second Persian Gulf war and
Sydney’s Cronulla riots, which were fuelled by
anti-Islam sentiment – not the most supportive era
for a visibly Muslim female to come of age.
That environment hit her hardest at 19, when
she was a second-year law student at Western Sydney
University. She remembers being filled with
“teenage angst and frustration” at her place
in the world at that time. That all changed in
November 2012 when she discovered a video online
of Palestinian-Canadian slam poet Rafeef Ziadah.
Especially as Ziadah’s performance repeated the
lines “I am an Arab woman of
colour and we come in all “It’s a safe space people finalists were refugees who
shades of anger.” Mansour felt
seen. “It gave me goosebumps,” can go to every
she recalls. “At the time, I felt I and have that cathartic of spoken word poetry.”
didn’t have a voice and I didn’t experience of
have anyone to represent me in
the media, or in politics. Then expressing
there was Rafeef not just owning
her anger but expressing it creatively.
That was such a liberating moment for me.”
From there the revelations came in thick
and fast. “I thought, if she can do it, I can do
it too.” By December that year Mansour was
on stage performing in her first ever poetry slam,
and as the words started to flow, all stereotypes
WORDS ANNA MCCOOE (MAIN) & KYLIE KWONG (INTRO).
of the “subjugated Islamic woman” tumbled,
at least for her.
Mansour says performing her words on stage
PHOTOGRAPHY MARK POKORNY (KWONG).
makes her feel like “a queen”. “It’s the thing that
makes me feel most alive,” she explains. “When
I hear clicks, and get that support from the crowd,
or when it’s silent and the audience is really
listening, it’s incredibly empowering.” When she
launched the Bankstown Poetry Slam (BPS) with
friends as a not-for-profit charity, her first
motivation was to cut down on travel time for her
next rush. The by-product was gifting the power
of spoken word to her local community.
“It’s a safe space people can go to every
month, and just have that cathartic experience
of expressing themselves.” And Mansour says the
community needed it. “This was at a time where
the Syrian war was starting to bubble up and
there were ongoing conflicts in the Middle East,
particularly between Palestine and Israel. We
needed a place to talk.”
Of course, with the act of speaking comes the
reciprocal action of being heard. “If someone says
a great line, we all click. It creates a connection
between the artist and the community, braiding
our energy together in a way that’s really impactful.”
Beyond the monthly poetry slams, Mansour
and the BPS committee run the Real Talk high
school poetry program, connecting with students
over issues such as bullying, racism and gender.
Five years in, the program reached a new high in
2022 when nine schools held their own youth
poetry slam. “Some of the
couldn’t speak English a year
month earlier. That tells you the power
Not everyone understands
the harmony or the catharsis
themselves.” though. Take for instance New
South Wales One Nation leader
Mark Latham who attacked the slam over Twitter
as “Islamic political ranting”. This was back in
2018 when he was a right-wing commentator.
Latham’s ranting was soon followed by a torrent of
online death threats and abuse from his followers.
Some even commented on Mansour’s slam videos
saying she “should be stoned”. She reflects,
“There will always be people who don’t want to
see young, diverse people who are proud of who
they are and are proud to express themselves in
a way that is challenging to the norm. That just
reinforces the need for our existence.”
Today, Mansour says Western Sydney can still
feel undervalued but she is the ultimate advocate
for life in her area. “The best thing about where
I live is that it really is a community. If there is
a crisis, so many efforts will be made to raise funds,”
she says. “Or if my car is broken down, 10 people
will stop to help. It’s home because it’s a place
where everyone can belong.” Snaps all round. 
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 35
 Komeyui,
Brisbane

p 39

Dining out
PHOTOGRAPHY MARKUS RAVIK

This month, we visit a stylish sake bar

in Carlton, Komeyui’s Brisbane outpost
and the Nilands’ new seafood joint in
Sydney’s north shore.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 37
 The dining room at
Léonie Upstairs.
Clockwise from right:
Léonie’s temaki sushi;
and sake.
Carlton,
Vic
LÉONIE UPSTAIRS
This serene eatery is a lesson in temaki sushi and
female-brewed sake, writes MICHAEL HARDEN.
T
his charmingly chilled Japanese
restaurant and sake bar
overlooking Carlton’s leafy
Lincoln Square is named after Léonie
Gilmour, an American editor and
journalist who also happened to be the
mother of Japanese-American artist
and furniture designer Isamu Noguchi.
For those who enjoy spotting themes,
there’s plenty on offer at Léonie
Upstairs, from drool-worthy, nail-free
blond timber joinery and sculptural rice
paper lightshades to a cleverly
annotated sake list highlighting women
brewers and a menu featuring some
glorious east-west fusion moments.
Alternatively, you could just
come here to soak in the serenity
while tucking into Melbourne’s best
selection of temaki sushi.
Alongside the impressive sake
list – pay attention to the excellently
curated flights – temaki sushi gets top
38 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
CK LOO
UI
K
1, 15-17 Lincoln Sq
Carlton, Vic
leonieupstairs.com.au
CHEF
Hitoe Okada
OPENING HOURS
Dinner Thu-Mon
PRICE GUIDE $$
BOOKINGS
Recommended. custard generously punctuated with
VERDICT seafood and mushrooms. Or the
Japanese serenity in not-to-be-missed house-made
décor, food and sake.
tsukemono, (celery pickled with salted
kelp is crisp, salty and sensational) and
boned-out chicken wings, stuffed with
chicken and tofu farce and deep-fried.
There’s such attention to detail
and balance here that even an odd-ish
combination of tomato, risotto and
camembert stuffed into a tempura
zucchini flower may have you
wondering why those ingredients
don’t get together more often.
You might also just come here
for the sake. For non-connoisseurs,
the world of the fermented rice
beverage can be intimidating but the
billing. Temaki is the looser, cone-
list here with its helpful groupings and
shaped style of sushi, made to order
thoughtful tasting notes is accompanied
so the nori arrives crisp and with less
by excellent service that might have
constrained ingredients than the more
you leaving feeling greater kinship
familiar nigiri. There are 10-plus
with its sparkling, aged, chilled and
varieties on Léonie’s menu, including
unfiltered manifestations. It’s another
a soft-shell crab number with a curry
reason to lodge serene and stylish
miso, a superb beef tataki and ponzu
Léonie on your radar. 
jelly version and a tuna and pickle
combo that’s guaranteed to put
a spring in your step. There’s
a make-your-own option too.
But it’s not just temaki and sake
that make finding Léonie’s obscure
entrance worth the effort (hint: take
the stairs behind the black metal door
inside street-level ice-cream and bento
shop Hareruya Pantry).
There’s saba pâté, for example,
a scintillating miso-simmered mackerel
pâté teamed with tangy dashi jelly
served with flaky pie-crust batons. Or
a brilliant chawanmushi, the silky egg
 Review

CK LOO
UI

K
191 Wharf St,
Spring Hill, Qld
komeyui.com.au/
brisbane-home
CHEFS
Motomu Kumano,
Minkyu Max Han and
Sho Tominaga
OPENING HOURS
Lunch and dinner
Tue-Sun
PRICE GUIDE $$$
BOOKINGS
Striploin with Recommended.
roasted broccolini VERDICT
and seaweed wasabi Upscale Japanese in
dressing. Right: spacious and tranquil
Komeyui’s façade. surrounds.

Spring Hill,
Qld

KO M E Y UI serene white orchid display and garden

glimpses, is busy. Black-clad waitstaff
are plentiful, smiley and attentive. My
Melbourne’s Komeyui has a slick new Brisbane Shirataki Junmai sake is poured into
a massive wine glass – the better to
outpost and it’s bringing a little Zen interconnection enjoy its aroma – and served cold to
to the everyday, writes FIONA DONNELLY. accompany the starting sashimi.
It’s a pretty straight bat selection
of four jewel-fresh Australian species,
white or goldband snapper, some silver
skin still attached, yellowfin tuna,

I t took me three years to realise that

the rice is more important than the
fish.” Our white-jacketed sushi chef
places another perfectly formed piece
of nigiri sushi before me. He’s been
studying how to perform this alchemy
since 2013, regularly putting in 16-hour
days, and has picked up a trick or two.
His satisfaction is palpable as we
admire the hapuka topping, a dab of
fiery chartreuse yuzukosho adding
vibrancy to its lightly scored flesh.
I’m sitting at Komeyui’s sleek timber
counter, midway through a $150
omakase (chef’s choice) menu. It’s
brightly lit, in contrast to the moodier
dining room where well-spaced round
tables are arrayed beneath a charcoal-
PHOTOGRAPHY MARKUS RAVIK
means rice and “yui” means knot, or “to
bring something together”. Just behind
the sushi counter, a traditional hagama
rice cooker with a timber lid sits in view.
This hagama is digitally timed, unlike
the centuries-old original. The resulting
grains, Yumepirika rice imported from
Hokkaido, are plump, well-seasoned,
almost sweet, holding magically
together in all 10 pieces of nigiri and yet
never feeling overly compacted.
The omakase starts with an oyster
“boat”, an OTT treat of a single Smoky
Bay oyster topped with a pink curl of
raw ama ebi shrimp, fat orange salmon
pearls and black caviar.
There are several ways to tackle
the menu. A five-course “chef
Tasmanian salmon and kingfish from
South Australia. The pieces arrive on
a hand-painted ceramic bowl,
garnished with a sliver of lime, a frilly
thatch of green tosaka seaweed and
a watermelon radish slice, the only
other adornment is a splodge of wasabi.
Ten pieces of nigiri follow, delivered
the instant they’re crafted. Toppings
include Crystal Bay prawn, crudo
scallops with blobs of torched foie gras,
eel, blow-torched soy-brushed salmon
belly, toasted sesame-sprinkled tuna
shoulder, caviar-topped tuna belly and
melt-in-the mouth fatty tuna “scrape”
scattered with chives.
A ball of matcha ice-cream acts like
an exclamation point, marking the end

hued ceiling. It’s part of the ceremony
of omakase to watch the chefs’ hand
movements, who look like they’re
communing in secret sign language, as
they deftly form rice balls for each nigiri.
Our menu explains the meaning
behind Komeyui’s name. “Kome”
signature” menu offers foie gras
chawanmushi steamed custard and
char-grilled sirloin as well as nigiri and
sashimi, while à la carte options cover
the gamut from sushi rolls to gyoza.
On a Sunday night this restrained
yet sharply detailed room, with its
of the omakase. It’s flanked by berries
and drizzled in a salty caramel that’s
Vegemite-laced. It’s a perfect illustration
of how the fusion of disparate elements
is often greater than the sum of the
parts, a philosophy that’s demonstrated
across Komeyui’s menu. 

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 39

St
Leonards,
NSW
P ET E R M E N
Fruits of the sea find a higher plane on Sydney’s
lower north shore at the Nilands’ latest
undertaking, writes MATTY HIRSCH.
F or some diners, the realisation
that very good things are going
on at Petermen will set in early.
It may strike when slender cuts of
salted King George whiting hit the
table, marinating in a citrusy gordal
olive brine that knows better than to
outshine the delicate sweetness of the
flesh. Or when fat Jervis Bay mussels
follow, preserved in a pulpy, dusky
achiote vinaigrette with a pleasantly
bitter and earthy edge.
For others, the switch might flick
later on, over a gargantuan green
curry for two that makes a star out of
grilled Spanish mackerel, mined with
muntries, pea shoots and barbecued
cucumber. Then again, there’s a lot to
be said for the braised saltbush
empanadas, too – crusty, herbaceous
and brightened by a piquant, tomatoey
Turkish ezme salad.
40 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
CK LOO
UI
K
66 Chandos St,
St Leonards, NSW
petermen.com.au
CHEFS Josh Niland and
Joshua Osborne
OPENING HOURS
Brunch Sun; Lunch Sat;
Dinner Mon & Wed-Sat
PRICE GUIDE $$$
BOOKINGS
Recommended.
VERDICT
Quite the catch.
For me, the penny dropped
somewhere in between, when an
innocent-looking plate of raw bonito
arrived, dressed in a soy sauce
deepened by the fish’s roasted bones.
Each uniform piece didn’t so much
melt as it did vanish on my tongue,
leaving an unexpectedly smoky
perfume in its wake. This is achieved
by placing a hot chunk of charcoal
directly on the silvery skin and wiping
the ashes off before slicing it.
It has been almost seven years
since Josh and Julie Niland opened
Saint Peter, and a lot has happened
since. That restaurant has garnered
near-universal acclaim, and its young
co-owners have been credited with
revolutionising the way we think about
seafood. Together, they’ve opened
a suite of dining and retail businesses;
he’s published two best-selling
Clockwise from far left:
Josh and Julie Niland;
Jervis Bay mussels
with Tasmanian
saffron. Opposite: hot
smoked Ulladulla blue
mackerel and
condiments.
cookbooks and also held brand
ambassadorships for Audi and Mumm.
Much like the couple’s Paddington
flagship in its early days, this place has
the look and feel of a smart-casual
neighbourhood restaurant in
a neighbourhood needing a bit more
excitement. The tariff is à la carte,
comprising just seafood and
vegetables. And in news that will be
music to the ears of countless
Sydneysiders, Sunday brunch is back
(with those unmissable sea-urchin
crumpets in tow). Yet, as they have
with each new project, the Nilands
have also found ways to attract new
legions of fans.
Children, for instance, have their
own dedicated menu, which features
fish fingers and a side dish called
“Greens are good for you!” Grown-ups
can do something never before seen at
a Niland Family Production: take a seat
at an unreserved high table by the bar
and order nothing more than a cracking
sake-enhanced Martini with a few aged
Wapengo Rocks oysters. Sweet tooths
of all ages, meanwhile, can appreciate
PHOTOGRAPHY JOSH NILAND (FOOD) & ROB PALMER (PORTRAIT).
the breadth of Julie Niland’s knack for
pastry across five desserts.
All these moving parts and the
absence of a defining “concept” might
lead you to believe the sum total here
is fragmented and unfocused, but that
couldn’t be further from the truth.
Flavours, textures, techniques and
cross-cultural references may run up
and down the menu, but they come
together with uncommon focus and
precision. If you suspect the Nilands
might be fresh out of ideas, Petermen
will make you believe they’re just
getting started. 
 Review

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 41
 A G o ur m e t Tr av e lle r p r o m o t i o n

Pure brilliance
From a distillery in the Japan Alps mountain range comes
an amazing limited edition 2021 Japanese single malt whisky.

S
itting 800 metres above sea level in the Nagano Prefecture
in Japan, Mars Shinshu distillery is located near Mount
Komagatake at the peak of the Kiso mountain range. Bathed
in beautiful, clean mountain air, the whisky is made from
pure mineral water from the surrounding mountains in the traditional
artisan style of Japanese whisky craftsmanship. The short, hot summers
encourage maturation while long, cold winters give the whisky a
slow and gentle maturation. In this very limited 2021 edition, selected The palate shows
single malts aged in bourbon and sherry casks are blended to make
up the sophisticated expression, with a smooth and elegant finish.
sweetness of honey,
The palate shows sweetness of honey, melon and ripe persimmon melon and ripe
fruits, with notes of hazelnut character from the sherry cask. persimmon fruits.

AVAILABLE AT QUALITY LIQUOR MERCHANTS Find out more at dejavuwines.com.au

 Noguchi Naohiko
Sake Institute

p 46

Kanpai!
Japan’s first brewery auberge, wine meets
vinyl in Melbourne, top Japanese drops
and life lessons from a sake master.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 43
 EAT, STAY, SAKE
There’s nothing like tasting sake in the place it was made, or staying
there for that matter. Onyado Fukuchiyo is the first sake brewery
auberge in Japan. The accommodation and restaurant is located in
a revamped 230-year-old merchant building in Saga prefecture on the
island of Kyushu. Rooms have access to an outdoor bath and guests can
tour the brewery, which is normally closed to the public. The inn’s master
is the creator of the local Nabeshima sake, which he pairs with the menu.
fukuchiyo.com/en

T ON
I GH
L
DRINKS NEWS

T
SPO
TOP DROPS, NEW OPENINGS, AND INSIDE TIPS FROM THE EXPERTS

M O U N TA I N H I G H
If there’s any day to raise a glass, it’s
20 May – World Whisky Day. Mark the
occasion with something special, such BHATIA DHEERAJ
as the new release Fuji Single Blended Director of wine, Arkhé, Adelaide
Whisky Masterpiece. Crafted at Mt. Fuji
Distillery, which looks out over the
majestic mountain after which it is At Arkhé, we don’t focus on verticals
named, it’s a rare and stunning drop, or the length of the wine list. Instead,

PHOTOGRAPHY WILLEM-DURK DU TOIT (BAHAMA GOLD) & MARVIN LEUVREY (DOM PÉRIGNON).
with just 300 bottles available in we emphasise the depth of choices
Australia. $1650 for 700ml, to spoil and excite winemakers,
vanguardluxurybrands.com.au sommeliers, and our loyal patrons.
We deliberately started with 90 labels
and have reached approximately 350.

My most precious Champagne

memory is pursuing education in the
region. Touching and feeling the soil,
visiting vineyards and villages, learning
from the experts, and breathing the air
in Champagne is something that I will
cherish all my life. These memories
AMAZING GRACE make me go back every year.
Roll out the red carpet, Henschke’s 2018 Single Vineyard On 17 May, Arkhé hosts a Champagne
Release wines make their debut on 3 May. The release dinner with special guest Rodolphe
includes the Henschke Hill of Roses, Mount Edelstone, Taittinger of luxury Champagne house
The Wheelwright, Cyril Henschke and the Hill of Peace, all Frerejean Frères. The six-course dinner
beautiful drops. The jewel in the crown, however, has to be will be accompanied by a Q & A hosted
the Henschke Hill of Grace Eden Valley Shiraz 2018, which by Vine & Bubble’s Sara Underdown.
marks 60 years since fifth-generation winemaker Stephen $400 per person.
Henschke’s father Cyril first created Hill of Grace back in
arkhe.com.au
1958. henschke.com.au

44 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
 Drinks news

MIX MASTER
In her role as manager of cocktail bar Bomba and JUST THE TONIC
host of YouTube series Behind the Bar, Cara Devine When the savvy crew at
shares the wonders and flavours of mixology. Devine Bibendum Wine Co. noticed
recently added author to her arsenal of skills, with a gap in the market for a high
cocktail recipe book Strong, Sweet and Bitter quality, Australian-made and
(Hardie Grant Books, $36.99). A classy, informative -owned mixer range, they went
read full of inspiration. Go forth and mix up a storm. about doing it themselves with
Midnight Mixers. The latest
addition to the natural tonic
water line-up is Amber Tonic,
made with raw Andean cinchona
bark (quinine in its natural form)
and zero additives or nasties.
More than 18 months of trial and
WORTH THE WAIT error went into creating it. Amber
Tonic is a hit solo or as a mixer
Dom Pérignon Vintage 2013 has landed.
with tequila, rum or mezcal.
A stunning drop that reflects a year of $54 for case of 24,
weather extremes. Add a decade of midnightmixers.com.au
maturation to the mix and you’ve got an
elegant and tangible example of why patience
really is a virtue. $350, domperignon.com
HISTORICAL DEEP DIVE
Specialist wine auctioneer,
author and Master of Wine
Andrew Caillard has produced
a fully illustrated, three-volume
history of Australian wine, The
Australian Ark. The 1400-page
ON TREND
work covers the period from
Wine meets vinyl at intimate Brunswick East venue
1788 to the present. A must for
Bahama Gold, a new lo-fi bar and bottle shop run
history buffs and wine lovers.
by Almay Jordaan and Simon Denman, who also
Pre-orders available now.
founded Neighbourhood Wine and Old Palm Liquor.
australianark.com
The vibe here is fun with more than 500 bottles of
wine (from Denman’s personal collection) alongside
three chilled wines sold by the litre. Each one, by the
likes of small producers Koerner and Little Reddie,
is served in a glass bottle which can be returned to
be refilled. Music is a focus, too. More than $60,000
worth of sound equipment ensures the extensive
record collection hits all the right notes. In the kitchen,
head chef Jane Low prepares dishes influenced
by her Malaysian-Australian upbringing and
Mediterranean travels. Snack plates include
sambal schiacciata, with different toppings
showcased each week. bahama.gold
 MEET THE MAKER

N O G U C H I N A O H I KO
Master brewer Noguchi Naohiko has been making sake since 1949.
In 2017, he founded the Noguchi Naohiko Sake Institute, where he
shares his wisdom and philosophies with a new generation of brewers.

What was your childhood like?

I was born in 1932 and experienced the Pacific War when I was in
elementary school. There, we practised evacuation drills in case of
air raids, dug air-raid shelters, and grew potatoes. I started working
at a sake brewery at the age of 16. Since food was in short supply
and I was working with rice, I thought it meant I would not have to
worry about eating.

What is your earliest memory of sake?

I am third generation toji (master brewer). When I was born, my
grandfather was so happy the Noguchi family had an heir who would
become a first-rate master brewer, he held me in his lap and would
not let go. My grandfather passed away when I was two years old, so
I don't remember him but I still seek his advice in my heart whenever
I hit a wall in brewing. I feel like he is always watching over me.

Why did you pursue sake as your life’s work?

I find it rewarding to make customers happy. When someone says,
“It tastes so good!” it makes me so happy I wish I could give them the
whole tank. These things deeply move me. This is why I can't quit
sake brewing. I retired three times and returned because I received
many letters from customers and that gave me the push I needed.

Why are you an advocate of the Yamahai-Jikomi brewing technique?

This old-fashioned production method uses natural lactic acid
bacteria suspended in the air. It takes about two weeks longer to

PHOTOGRAPHY YASUNORI SHIMOMURA (NOGUCHI NAOHIKO SAKE INSTITUTE).

make than the modern, fast brewing method, but the sake tends to
have a stronger flavour, better structure, a fuller body and a higher
alcohol content. It tends to be a sake that can withstand ageing.

Sake is on the rise outside of Japan. What is driving this trend?

Trade statistics show that both the volume and value of shipments are
growing. I wonder if the increase is driven by the number of Japanese
restaurants worldwide, the increase in tourists to Japan, and the
reputation of sake among people who have drunk sake in Japan.

What should we experience when visiting the Ishikawa prefecture?

Our sake brewery, Noguchi Naohiko Sake Institute, has an open
tasting room where you can compare my sake. There is also
Clockwise from left:
the sake brewery at an auberge [Eaufeu] next to the brewery where you can enjoy
Noguchi Naohiko delicious food made with local ingredients and an overnight stay
Sake Institute; the experience. The chef is as young as my grandson but he makes
façade of the brewery;
master brewer
truly delicious food.
Noguchi Naohiko
at work. noguchi-naohiko.co.jp

46 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
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 JAPANESE
SAMANTHA PAYNE on the country that converted her into a whisky lover.
WHISKY
C
onfession: I’ve never been a massive whisky fan.
It took a well-known Scottish chef to sit me down
one night post-service to explain the finer details
of it to me (while imbibing quite a few) before
I developed a professional appreciation for it. Even then,
it wasn’t my drink of choice, until recently.
Enter the delicious world of Japanese whisky, with its
more delicate, approachable styles that took my breath away.
And I’m not the only one; over the past decade demand for
Japanese whisky has outstripped supply. Some producers,
such as master blender Jota Tanaka at Fuji, claim it would
take “close to another 10 years to meet the global demands”.
After drinking one of the seasonal Highballs (flavoured
with spiced peach to enhance the spirit’s floral notes) at The
Elysian Whisky Bar in Fitzroy, I can see what all the fuss is
about. The Elysian’s owner Yao Wong has seen a steady
GLASSES FROM OSARA AUSTRALIA.
increase in people requesting to try Japanese whisky
“because they had heard about it from others – even those
who are not whisky drinkers at all”.
But as often happens when something becomes popular,
people acting in bad faith try to capitalise on it. Wong
explains, “Wonderful Japanese whiskies we used to drink
daily 10 years ago have suddenly become insane collector’s
items that speculators hoard and trade like commodities.
We’re seeing really crazy retail and after-market prices for
Japanese whisky in Australia. And still, they get snapped
up quickly and willingly.”
This demand led to a slew of “Japanese” presenting
whiskies being released on the market, confusing
consumers who sought the genuine article.
So even though Japanese whisky is celebrating its 100th
anniversary this year, it’s only recently that strict guidelines
and criteria for what constitutes Japanese whisky have been
outlined. The jist of the new criteria is: production, ageing
and bottling must all occur in Japan and only Japanese
water can be used during distillation. This kind of
clarification and definition of spirits has long been
a comfort to Scotch whisky drinkers, who enjoy
knowing the product in the bottle is what it says it is.
Multi-award-winning master blender Tanaka, in
charge of whisky creation at the Fuji distillery, was
instrumental in helping create the new guidelines
(alongside other distilleries such as Nikka and Mars
Distillery). He notes they didn’t want the classifications
to stifle innovation “but to provide integrity, high
quality and prove provenance of the spirit”. ➤
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 49

WINE CASK STYLES
With the rise of Japanese-made wines
and many of the commercial distilleries
owned by companies with global
winemaking brands in their portfolios,
the ability to age whisky in wine casks
is becoming more prevalent, adding
another dimension to the whiskies’
flavours. Mars Whisky Iwai Tradition
Wine Cask Finish, $128 for 750ml (1),
is one to try. Mars was established in
1548 and is Japan’s highest whisky
distillery (nearly 800 metres above sea
level). A rich and opulent style with
orange peel, dark chocolate and
cardamom notes. dejavusake.com.au
PEATED
These whiskies are flavoured by the peat
fires used to dry malted barley. These
are your leather couch-sitting, relaxing-
with-a-good-book kind of whiskies.
Japanese peated styles tend to be more
delicate than their Scottish counterparts.
This style is not for the faint of heart but
for drinkers who appreciate intense
flavours such as robust elements of kelp,
smoke, and rich forest floor. Try Chichibu
Ichiro’s The Peated 10th Anniversary,
$650 for 700ml (2). bibendum.com.au
50 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
With its more delicate,
approachable styles, over
the past decade demand
for Japanese whisky has
outstripped supply.
BLENDED STYLES
A blended whisky is mixed from a variety
of grains and a variety of barrel ages in
the name of balance and refinement.
Blends are the norm in Japan but Fuji
Whisky is the only distillery in the world
distilling different styles of grain whisky in
one blend. Each part of the blend is aged
separately, under Tanaka’s constant
watch. “Age is just a number, we value the
age of maturity and we value the
characteristics of each piece of the blend.”
For Japanese whisky newbies, Fuji
Whisky Single Blended, $173 for 700ml
(3), is an easy introduction with its pear
and pear blossom notes along with honey
melon and vanilla bean. fujiwhisky.com
SINGLE MALT
Scotland remains the benchmark
producer for distillers worldwide so it’s
no surprise that single malts, from single
distilleries, are making a mark in Japan.
Lovers of Scottish whisky who want to
try something new should seek out
Nikka Yoichi Single Malt, $166 for
700ml (4), which balances smoky
PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTINA SOLJO. STYLING HOLLY DORAN.
elements with white floral and nectarine
notes. Meanwhile Suntory Whisky The 1
Yamazaki 12YO Single Malt, $470 for
700ml (5), from the country’s first
distillery, offers a taste of Japanese
whisky history (and well worth the price
tag). Sip and savour this one with its
vanilla, sea spray and ripe white
peaches and try to make it last.
nikka.com, danmurphys.com.au 
 4

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 51
Cocktail hour

W HI SKY H IGH BAL L

Ante’s House

M
irin might not be the first ingredient
people would think to add to a mixed Whisky Highball
drink, but the long-established
Combine 45ml Japanese whisky and
Ogasawara Brewery in Hekinan
15ml Ogasawara Isshi Soden mirin (see
doesn’t produce ordinary mirin. Naturally made
note) in a chilled highball glass. Fill the
by hand without any additives and aged for glass with ice and stir for 15 seconds to
a minimum of four years, it has a gentle sweetness integrate and dilute the ingredients. Top
that’s a far cry from the syrupy, saccharine stuff up with strong soda water and stir
usually found on supermarket shelves. gently to combine. To finish, twist a thin
“I’ve been using this mirin for years, mainly zest of lemon over the top of the glass
when cooking at home but it’s also super delicious to release the oils and discard.
to sip on its own,” says importer Matt Young, who Note Ogasawara Isshi Soden mirin
brings the umami-rich and amber-tinted flavour is available from selected stockists
enhancer into Australia under his Black Market and blackmarketsake.com.
Sake banner.
At Ante, the sake-focused listening bar Young
co-owns with chef and partner Jemma Whiteman
in Sydney’s Newtown, mirin features prominently
in the top-billed House Whisky Highball. The
decision to include the condiment may not have
been a calculated one but Young admits it has
paid dividends.
“Sometimes customers do a double-take when
they see it listed in the description,” he says, “but
using it in the recipe gives the drink a wonderful
depth and complexity that whisky on its own can’t
provide. It changes people’s perception, for sure.”

WORDS MATTY HIRSCH. PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTINA SOLJO. STYLING HOLLY DORAN.

For weekly cocktail
inspiration, follow
us on Instagram
@gourmettraveller

KI
3ES TO
S

TR
EE WHI

White Oak Akashi NAS Suntory Kakubin Whisky Nikka Whisky from
HR

Single Malt Whisky First launched in 1937, the Barrel

T This malty and pleasantly Suntory’s unmistakeable A powerhouse blended
spiced small-batch whisky square bottle remains whisky, bottled at cask
from just west of Kobe is a perennial go-to for strength and pulsing with
Young’s weapon of choice its versatility and mild vanilla, pear, stone fruit and
for Highballs. honey sweetness. cereal grain flavours.
$120 for 500ml $79 for 700ml $90 for 500ml
kentstreetcellars.com.au danmurphys.com.au nicks.com.au

52 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
 To p d r o p s

Made in Japan 2018 Lamy-Pillot Champs

de Morgeot Chassagne-
Montrachet, $80
The confluence between
Attention to detail and respect for provenance E Burgundy’s site-inflected

L
BT
define Japan’s standout wine culture, subtleties and the Japanese

RY & S U
spirit knows few limitations.
writes NED GOODWIN. Provenance binds the details,

VO U
from the silken weave of

SA
tannins to riffs on pickled
Japanese plum, this is pinot
noir from a single vineyard
that is savoury, understated

G
iven the focus of this issue, it is pertinent I draw and forceful all at once. Japan
on the 14 years I lived in Japan. In fact, I wrote brims with paradoxes and
my Master of Wine dissertation on Japanese here, in liquid form, they make
preferences for styles of wine by-the-glass at top for intrigue.
Tokyo restaurants. After amassing considerable data and
testing a litany of theories, my supposition that wines of 2021 Kusuda Riesling,
Ned Goodwin
nuance and delicacy would carry favour over bombast and Martinborough, $95

ELY & DRY

is a former
A Japanese lawyer who
sommelier, wine obvious fruit resonated. Wines that caress rather than
communicator and acquiesced to wine’s call.
Master of Wine
bludgeon, so to speak. After all, Japanese cuisine is said
Martinborough’s pinot noir
to reach a state of perfection when nothing more can be

ST E
at Langton’s. was the drawcard. Yet the
@nedgoodwinmw removed. Subtlety is of the essence. effects of climate change have
Yet in a wine culture with more accredited sommeliers drawn a brighter future for
than any other but for Italy, along with an underlying wines such as this, a shimmer
reverence for education, knowledge, authority and the of lime blossom and jasmine;
discipline required to achieve it, this is a culture that errs steely, taut and dry. The finest
towards deferral. In other words, Japanese customers are riesling of the antipodes.
comfortable asking for advice. This is a very different
dynamic to the cult of the individual that we are 2015 Koyama Mountford
accustomed to in the West. Vineyard Estate Pinot Noir,
In all, Japan remains one of the best places on earth Waipara, $60
to drink wine. While per capita consumption is relatively How I love these wines.
NE W WORLD

small, the wine drinking niche consists of the most Takahiro Koyama has
perspicacious drinkers on earth complemented by wines worked at some of the best
stored at the right temperatures and served in correct addresses on the planet. His
glassware. There is a maniacal attention to detail and comprehension of pinot noir’s
a love of provenance at its hearth. In Japan, wine is porcini underbelly of tannins
all about place! It is no wonder the country remains and its capacity for firework
the top consumer of premier and grand cru Burgundy aromas of cherry, violet and
wet forested scents, makes for
and grower and prestige cuvée Champagne alongside
one of the most compelling
the United States.
wines in the New World.
Here are some wines, deft of touch, that meander
effortlessly with the Japanese narrative. Amanoto Junmai Daiginjo
35 Sake, Japan, $110
buy “Junmai” means pure rice, or
o a style with no added alcohol
A R & C RI S P
t

or sugar. “Daiginjo” refers to

an

the nth degree to which the

rice used for this top-drawer
Sc

CLE

sake is polished. Expect scents

of miso, radish, parmesan and
chamomile, with the feel of
a mountain stream flowing
long, clear and crisp.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 53
 E X P E RT LY
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 M AY

From easy-to-prepare dishes for entertaining to simple

suppers, these everyday recipes keep things fast and fresh.

Photography ALICIA TAYLOR Styling LUCY BUSUTTIL

VEGETARIAN GLUTEN FREE DAIRY FREE
Recipes JESSICA BROOK

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 55
 Crisp eggplant yasai itame
SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 20 MINS

35 gm (¼ cup) plain flour
2 eggs, lightly beaten
75 gm (1 cup) panko crumbs
2 eggplants (300gm each), cut
lengthways into 1.5cm-thick slices
Vegetable oil, for shallow-frying
Shichimi togarashi, sliced spring
onions and bean sprouts, to serve
YASAI ITAME
1 tbsp vegetable oil
1 onion, cut into thin wedges
2 bunches of mixed Dutch carrots,
peeled and thinly sliced lengthways
¼ Savoy cabbage (about 200gm),
shredded
4 spring onions, trimmed and cut into
6cm lengths
250 gm snow peas, trimmed and halved
60 ml (¼ cup) soy sauce
60 ml (¼ cup) vegetarian oyster sauce
2 tbsp barbecue sauce
1 Place flour in a bowl, season to taste
and mix to combine. Place eggs in
a separate bowl. Place panko crumbs in
a third bowl. Dust eggplant in flour. Dip
into egg and panko crumbs to coat.
2 Heat 3cm oil in a large frying pan over
medium-high heat. In two batches, add
eggplant and cook, turning occasionally,
until golden and crisp (4-6 minutes).
Drain on paper towel and repeat with
remaining eggplant; keep warm. Drain
excess oil from pan and wipe clean.
3 For yasai itame, return pan to high
heat and add oil. Add onion and carrots
and cook, stirring frequently, until starting
to turn golden (4 minutes). Add cabbage,
spring onion, snow peas and cook,
stirring frequently until just tender
(2 minutes). Combine soy, oyster and
barbecue sauce in a small bowl. Add half
to pan with 60ml water and cook until
just coated (2 minutes).
4 Divide stir-fry between plates. Top
with eggplant and drizzle with reserved
sauce. Sprinkle with shichimi togarashi,
spring onions and bean sprouts.

COOKING TIP
Yasai itame is a Japanese-style
stir-fry. You can use just about
any vegetable in your fridge,
as long as you remember not
to overcrowd the frying pan.

56 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
 Everyday

Cabbage Square
handled spoon
from The DEA
Store. All other
props stylist’s own.

Roasted miso cabbage with sesame,

soy and tofu cream
SERVES 2 // PREP TIME 10 MINS // COOK 20 MINS

2 3cm-thick slices red cabbage 1 Preheat oven to 220˚C (fan-forced). 4 Spoon tofu cream onto plates. Top
(200gm each) Place cabbage slices on a large lightly with cabbage and sprinkle with chilli,
2 tbsp mirin greased baking tray. sesame seeds and shiso. Drizzle with
1 tbsp each red miso, honey and 2 Combine mirin, miso, honey, sesame oil to serve. ➤
sesame oil oil and ginger in a small bowl. Season
1 tsp grated ginger with white pepper. Brush over each side
1 long red chilli, seeds removed of cabbage steaks. Roast until lightly
and finely chopped charred (10 minutes). Turn and brush with FLAVOUR TIP
1 tsp each black and white more miso glaze and roast until charred If you prefer a milder miso
sesame seeds and tender (8 minutes). flavour, try using white
Micro green shiso, to serve 3 For tofu cream, heat oil in a non-stick miso in place of red miso.
Olive oil, for drizzling frying pan over medium heat. Add leek
TOFU CREAM and garlic, season and cook, stirring
1 tbsp sesame oil occasionally, until softened (4 minutes).
1 leek, white part only, thinly sliced Place in a blender with tofu, tahini and
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped soy milk and blend until smooth. Place
300 gm silken tofu, chopped in a small saucepan and keep warm
1 tbsp tahini paste over low heat.
125 ml (½ cup) warm soy milk (we
use Happy Happy Soy Boy)
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 57
Everyday
Toasties Gifu bowl
and Bicla napkin
from Provider Store.
58 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
HISTORY
Kare pan is a Japanese curry
wrapped in bread dough, coated in
panko crumbs and deep-fried.
Here, we’ve made a simple version
for an easy weeknight meal.
Kare pan toasties
SERVES 2 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 25 MINS
1 tbsp vegetable oil, plus extra for
shallow-frying
1 golden shallot, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
150 gm butternut pumpkin, coarsely
grated
150 gm minced beef
1 tbsp each plain flour and Japanese
curry powder
2 tbsp each soy sauce and mirin
4 thick slices white bread
50 gm softened butter
20 gm finely grated parmesan cheese
75 gm (1 cup) panko crumbs
2 slices provolone
2 cups finely shaved green cabbage
1 tbsp rice wine vinegar
Micro coriander and Kewpie
mayonnaise, to serve
1 Heat oil in a large non-stick frying pan
over medium heat. Add shallot, garlic
and cook, stirring occasionally until
softened (4 minutes). Add butternut and
minced beef and cook, breaking up
beef with back of a spoon until golden
(6 minutes). Add flour and curry powder
and stir to coat. Add soy, mirin and
125ml water, bring to a simmer, stirring
occasionally, and cook until thickened
slightly (2-3 minutes). Set aside to
cool slightly.
2 Brush outside of bread with butter.
Combine parmesan and panko on
a large plate. Press buttered side of
bread into crumb mixture and place
crumb-side down. Spread minced beef
over half the slices. Top with cheese
and sandwich with remaining bread,
crumb-side facing outwards.
3 Wipe out frying pan and return to
medium heat. Add sandwiches and cook
until golden and crisp (3 minutes). Turn
and cook until golden (3 minutes).
4 Toss cabbage with vinegar in a bowl.
Serve sandwiches with cabbage salad
scattered with micro coriander and
Kewpie mayonnaise.
Soba noodles with nori sesame butter
and sake grilled prawns
SERVES 2 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 20 MINS

2tbsp sake 1 Combine sake, sugar, garlic, vinegar Place under grill and cook, turning
1tbsp caster sugar and soy sauce in a shallow bowl. Add occasionally, until prawns are just
2garlic cloves, crushed prawns and toss to coat. Set aside to cooked through, adding onions in the
1tsp each rice wine vinegar and marinade (5 minutes). last 2 minutes (8 minutes).
soy sauce 2 To make butter, tear nori and place in 4 Meanwhile, cook soba noodles in
8 large green king prawns a small food processor with a pinch of boiling salted water until just tender
(180gm each) salt. Process until finely chopped. (3-4 minutes). Place in a large bowl,
2 spring onions, trimmed and cut Combine butter, sesame oil and garlic add half butter; season to taste and
into 6cm lengths in a small saucepan over low heat. toss to combine.
200 gm dried green soba noodles Add nori and cook until melted and 5 Divide between bowls, top with
Mizuna leaves and micro purple warm (3 minutes). prawns, drizzle with remaining butter
shiso leaves, to serve 3 Preheat oven grill to high. Place and scatter with shiso, mizuna leaves
NORI SESAME BUTTER prawns, cut-side up on an oven tray. and salmon roe. ➤
1 nori sheet, toasted
50 gm unsalted butter, softened
2 tsp sesame oil
1 garlic clove, crushed
Salmon roe, to serve Noodles Elke
Lucas “Sgraffito”
serving dish from
The DEA Store.

MIX IT UP
You can use any
combination of your
favourite seafood here,
including crab, scallops,
squid or lobster.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 59
 Mirin-glazed pork belly, ginger rice and pickled
shiitake mushrooms
SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 45 MINS (PLUS SOAKING)

2 tsp dashi powder 1 Preheat oven to 220˚C (fan-forced). and cook until reduced slightly and
180 ml (2⁄3 cup) mirin Combine dashi, mirin, soy, and 80ml mushrooms are pickled (10 minutes).
1 tbsp sweet soy water in a small bowl and whisk to Set aside in pickling liquid to cool.
1.2 kg boneless pork belly (8 x 2cm-thick combine. Place pork in a high-sided 3 Place rice in a large saucepan, cover
slices), skin on flameproof roasting pan and pour over with 3 cups cold water and grated
Steamed snake beans, to serve marinade. Place over high heat and ginger. Bring to the boil over high heat,
SHIITAKE MUSHROOMS bring to a simmer (2 minutes). Roast reduce heat to low, cover and cook
100 gm dried shiitake mushrooms, until starting to colour and caramelise (12-14 minutes). Remove from heat and
soaked in boiling water for (20 minutes). Turn pork and cook until stand, covered to steam (5 minutes).
10 minutes sauce is slightly reduced, pork is 4 Heat oil in a small saucepan over high
1 tsp dashi powder caramelised and golden (20 minutes). heat. Add garlic and cook, until golden
2 tbsp mirin 2 Meanwhile, drain shiitake mushrooms, and crisp (1 minute). Drain, pour over rice,
60 ml (¼ cup) rice wine vinegar place in a small saucepan with remaining and gently toss to combine. Divide rice
CRISP GARLIC AND GINGER RICE ingredients, 1 tsp fine cooking salt and and pork between bowls. Serve with
400 gm (2 cups) sushi rice 80ml water. Place over medium heat, mushrooms, snake beans, and spoon
1 tbsp grated ginger bring to a simmer, reduce heat to low over pan juices.
60 ml peanut oil
4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

SWAP IT OUT
Dashi powder is a seaweed
Pork Rinka oval
powdered stock. If you don’t have plate from
this, use vegetable stock. The DEA Store.

60 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
 Everyday

Steak with caramelised

onion and ginger ponzu
SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 10 MINS // COOK 30 MINS
(PLUS RESTING)

1 tbsp sesame oil, plus extra for

brushing
1 white onion, thinly sliced into wedges
1 tbsp caster sugar
60 ml (¼ cup) mirin
2 tbsp tamari
Finely grated rind and juice of 1 lime
and 1 lemon
1 tsp grated ginger
2 T-bone steaks (450gm each), at
room temperature
2 bunches broccolini (350gm each),
trimmed, halved lengthways

1 Combine oil, onion and sugar in

a saucepan over medium heat. Cook,
stirring frequently, until onions are
starting to colour (8-10 minutes). Add
mirin and tamari, bring to a simmer, and
cook until slightly reduced (5 minutes).
Take off heat, stir in rind, juice, and
ginger; set aside.
2 Heat a lightly greased char-grill pan
or barbecue to high. Brush steak with oil
and season all over. Cook steaks until
charred (6 minutes). Turn and cook until
charred and cooked to medium-rare
(6 minutes). Set aside to rest (5 minutes).
3 Meanwhile, place the broccoli on the
grill and cook, turning until charred and
tender (6 minutes).
4 Serve steaks on a platter with
broccolini. Serve topped with
caramelised onion and ginger ponzu. ➤

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 61
Everyday

FLAVOUR TIP
For an added kick,
combine caster sugar and
finely grated lemon zest,
and toss doughnuts in
mixture as soon as they
come out of the deep fryer.

Sweet tofu doughnuts with

yuzu salted caramel
SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 10 MINS // COOK 20 MINS (PLUS RESTING)

300 gm silken tofu 1 For caramel, combine sugar and 50ml
55 gm (¼ cup) caster sugar water in a saucepan over medium-high
1 tsp vanilla bean paste heat until sugar dissolves; boil until dark
3 tsp baking powder caramel (7-8 minutes). Remove from
150 gm (1 cup) plain flour heat, gradually whisk in cream (taking
Vegetable oil, for shallow-frying care as hot caramel will spit). Add 1 tsp
Icing sugar mixture, for dusting sea salt flakes and yuzu and swirl to
YUZU SALTED CARAMEL combine; cool to room temperature.
110 gm (½ cup) caster sugar 2 To make donuts, pass tofu through
125 ml (½ cup) thickened cream a fine-meshed sieve into a large bowl.
1 tbsp yuzu juice (see note) Add sugar and vanilla; mix until
combined. Combine baking powder and
flour in a bowl; whisk to combine. Add to
tofu mixture and mix to a thick batter.
Refrigerate batter until firm (30 minutes).
3 Half fill a large saucepan with oil.
Place over medium heat until oil reaches
170°C on a deep-frying thermometer.
4 In two batches, using two lightly
greased tablespoons, scoop batter and
carefully lower into oil. Cook until golden
and cooked (4 minutes). Remove with
a slotted spoon and drain on paper
towel. Repeat with remaining batter.
5 Dust with icing sugar and serve
with caramel sauce.
Note Yuzu juice is available from select
supermarkets and Asian grocers; if
unavailable, substitute lime juice. 

We use seafood from Notaras Fish Markets in the GT Test Kitchen and in all our photo shoots.
62 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
 Come to the dark side.
Füri Pro Jet Black Knives.

Outperforms
10 of the
leading brands
of knives in
sharpness*

Precision crafted from X50CrMoV15 Japanese Stainless Steel. Finished with a

super fine 13° cutting edge on each side, for out-of-the-box sharpness. Ideal balance
between performance and durability. Matte-black oxidised finish gives a new feel to
the knife that pioneered the reverse-wedge handle. Furi. Cut Differently.

*Based on ICP & TCC independent tests conducted by CATRA

 Okonomiyaki
Made with tempura flour, this grilled
pancake-like snack can be dressed up or
down with your favourite toppings.

Futagami brass
chopstick rests and
Tone oxidised
copper round tray,
both from The DEA
Store. All other
props stylist’s own.

66 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
 Masterclass

O
saka is often referred to as Japan’s kitchen, and okonomiyaki is
the street food turned culinary staple that has reverberated
COOKING TIPS
from the city across the world. Originating in the 1900s during
It can be tricky to flip your pancake if
the Taish and Sh wa periods, when wheat flour spread among
the batter is slightly runny. In step 5,
the general public, these days the grilled snack can be found in yokocho
cover batter with a lid to set batter then
(late-night dining allies) and restaurants alike. With “yaki” meaning grilled
flip to colour each side.
and “okonomi” meaning “as you like”, it can be filled or topped with
whatever you like, be it thin slices of fatty pork, squid, tempura flakes or
cooked prawns.

4 5
1  For teriyaki sauce, place 125ml mirin,
125ml soy sauce, 2 tbsp cooking
sake, 50gm caster sugar, 2 crushed garlic
cloves, and 20gm finely grated ginger in
a saucepan over high heat and bring to
the boil. Reduce heat to medium, simmer
PHOTOGRAPHY JOHN PAUL URIZAR. STYLING OLIVIA BLACKMORE.
6
4  Add cooled cabbage mixture with
3 small spring onions cut into 3cm
batons to batter; mix to combine.
7  Transfer pancakes to serving plates
and brush with teriyaki sauce.
Drizzle each with mayonnaise, and serve
scattered with thinly sliced spring onion,
5  Heat a 20cm cast-iron or heavy-
based frying pan over high heat
pickled ginger, aonori and katsuobushi
and season with togarashi.

and reduce until syrupy (12-15 minutes); and add 2½ tbsp grapeseed oil. Add half
cool to room temperature, then strain. batter and using a large metal spoon
spread batter evenly over base of pan.

2  Meanwhile, for batter, mix 150gm

tempura flour with 220ml water in
a large bowl and set aside to rest in
Reduce heat to medium and cook until
light golden and set on base (3 minutes).
Note Aonori (dried, chopped
seaweed), katsuobushi (dried
bonito flakes) and shichimi
fridge (30 minutes).
6  Flip over and cook until light
golden and cooked through.
togarashi are available from
Japanese grocers. Teriyaki sauce

3  For cabbage filing, cut 280gm

white cabbage into 1cm pieces.
Heat a frying pan with 21⁄2 tbsp
(3 minutes). Increase heat to high and
cook each side for a further 1 minute,
adding extra oil if needed, until golden
can be stored in an airtight
container, refrgerated for up to
3 months. 
grapeseed oil over medium-high heat. and crisp. Repeat with remaining batter.
Cook cabbage with 2 crushed garlic
cloves and 1⁄2 tsp shichimi togarashi,
tossing occasionally, until softened
(3-4 minutes). Set aside to cool.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 67
 Photography IRWIN WONG

Guided by a local ramen head,

ALEXANDRA CARLTON hits the streets
of Tokyo in pursuit of the best bowls.

SECRETS
C
ody Mizuno is excited about one of the Japanese capital’s
emerging ramen trends: fresh fish-based ramen. The one
we’re about to visit is called Madai Ramen Mengyo, which
translates to “fresh fish”, and the soup here is made with
luxurious fresh snapper or sea bream (the two names are used
interchangeably in Japan), rather than the usual dried fish, or dashi,
that characterises most Japanese fish-based broths.
We duck inside a small shop lined with a narrow wooden counter Clockwise from top left: oyster-based
along one side, punch in our orders on the push-button machine and ramen at Mukan; the counter at
Ramen Break Beats; and Ramen
are soon presented with a fragrant – verging on pungent – bowl of Guide Japan’s Cody Mizuno.
glistening, slightly opaque snapper soup, filled with textured Opposite: the entrance of Ramen
handmade noodles and topped with blush-pink folds of pork. The Break Beats.
chewy noodles and featherlight pork are delicious but the soup’s
fishiness is a little overwhelming to me, though a few curls of pickled
ginger help to cut through the intensity. “It’s a strong flavour but it’s
very nostalgic for Japanese people because it’s something we grew up
eating at New Year,” explains Mizuno. Would I have chosen to eat it
if I’d been searching out ramen shops myself? Perhaps not. But what
a delight to be trying the full rainbow of ramen options with
someone who knows it better than almost anyone.
Mizuno runs the website Ramen Guide Japan, as well as ramen
tours around Tokyo, and the guy knows his noodles. He first became
interested in ramen in 2018 when he made a pledge to try every one
of the top 100 ramen shops listed on Tabelog, Japan’s famous
restaurant-ranking website. “I started in August and by December
I’d cleared all 100,” he says with a laugh. A friend who’d joined him
on the mission bowed out (“He found the ramen he enjoyed so he
felt he was done”) but Mizuno was hooked. “It was this way of going
to these places around Japan that I’d never otherwise explore and
experiencing them via ramen,” he says.
Now, he estimates he’s visited around 900 ramen shops and eaten
more than 1000 bowls of ramen since mid-2018. A typical day might
involve ramen for both lunch and dinner. On weekends he often heads
to Tokyo’s outskirts to chase bowls that have caught his interest. ➤

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 69
 “If I’m paying 2000 yen for a train fare then it makes
sense to hit as many shops as possible, so those are the
days I might do three or four bowls,” he says.
What does Mizuno believe makes the perfect ramen?
“It’s all about the balance of the bowl,” he says. “You
don’t want it to be too salty or too sweet or too umami-
enriched. You also want harmony between the soup, the
noodles and the toppings.” For example, he says, a rich,
creamy tonkotsu-style ramen needs a thick, robust noodle
that won’t get lost in the intensity of the soup. A lighter
chicken-based soup is better paired with a thinner, more
delicate noodle. “There’s also no reason to be putting A5 from a soup base, and of course there’s endless tussling
wagyu toppings on your ramen if you’re not using beef over the validity of what might be called the “novelty
bone broth. The delicate flavours of the wagyu would be ramens”, such as an infamous ramen made with
overwhelmed by a creamy pork soup,” he says. “It’s about pineapple, and a blue ramen. “I don’t like to speak down
being able to make sure the customer enjoys the whole on it because the master is very sensitive to criticism,”
bowl, not just its individual components.” says Mizuno diplomatically of the blue ramen, whose
As with so many things in Japan, ramen is so much soup is the rather unsettling colour of blue jelly beans,
more than just a food. For true ramen heads it’s a whole purportedly from spirulina. “Psychologically, in my head,
world, and you could spend the rest of your life digging I kept thinking of Blue Hawaii syrup, which threw my
into its variants and subcultures. There are the “machi palate right off. I didn’t really enjoy that bowl.”
chuka” fans, who are dedicated to visiting old-school But whether it’s bone-based, balanced or even blue,
Chinese-style ramen houses that have been run by the Mizuno doesn’t predict a day when he’ll ever lose that
same family for 50 or 60 years (Japanese ramen was rush of excitement when he lifts his spoon to a brand new
essentially adapted from Chinese noodle dishes from bowl he hasn’t tried before. To mix things up he’s tried
the early 20th century). There are the “Jirorians” who ploughing his way through Tokyo’s top burgers, top unagi
see themselves as the unofficial behaviour gatekeepers restaurants and top curry spots and while he’s had some
of the capital’s famous “Jiro” ramen shops, which have good times, ramen has his heart. “Ramen’s great because
complicated etiquette guidelines designed to encourage it’s so accessible and so cheap,” Mizuno says. “But more
their customers to eat their ramen quickly and in silence importantly – I just really, really love ramen.” 
to maximise turnover.
Fierce debate rages over whether ramen is authentic
if the master doesn’t make their own soup in-house, but
rather buys it from a central soup kitchen or makes it

Clockwise from left: shoyu

ramen at Ramen Break Beats;
intimate dining at Mukan; the
signage at Menson Rage.
Opposite, from top left: the
busy kitchen and dining room
at Ramen Break Beats; shoyu
ramen at Menson Rage.

70 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
FIVE MUST-
V I S I T T O KYO
RAMEN SHOPS
RAMEN BREAK BEATS
DJ-turned-ramen chef, Yanase-
san is producing some of the
most sought-after bowls in Tokyo,
so much so that you’ll need to
show up as early as 8am to get
your name on their sign-up sheet.
Both the shoyu (soy-based) and
shio (salt-based) versions are
phenomenal, but the shio is the
favourite among regulars.
RAMEN-YA TOYBOX
For an out-of-this-world shoyu
ramen experience make your way
to Toy Box out in the Minowa
district of Tokyo, which uses the
Mizudori method for its broth,
meaning it’s only made of chicken
and water. That’s then combined
with a decadent “chiyu” (rendered
chicken oil) and a vibrant shoyu
tare (sauce) for one of the most
delicious soups you’ll have
in the city.
MENSON RAGE
Michelin-recognised as Bib
Gourmand, Menson Rage is
a popular shoyu ramen shop
out towards West Tokyo. The
shoyu offering uses “Shamo”,
a breed of chicken known
primarily for cock fighting in
Southeast Asia, but which actually
produces incredibly flavourful
broths. If you’re looking to try
something unique, try its “Maze
Soba” which is a decadent bowl
of soupless ramen.
MUKAN
Mukan is one of the newest ramen
shops in Tokyo, but has created
quite the buzz with its oyster
broth-based ramen. Serving only
four guests in 30-minute dining
slots, it’s great for an intimate
dinner. Reservations are only
available the night before on the
restaurant’s Twitter account.
airrsv.net/mukan/calendar
TSUKEMEN MICHI
Tsukemen, if you’ve never had it
before, is what Mizuno likes to call
“deconstructed ramen”, where the
noodles and soup are served
separately. It was invented in
the early ’70s and has since
become a staple ramen style.
For a comforting, rich and creamy
tsukemen, look no further than
Michi. Tsukemen soup can be
a bit intense so the idea is to
adjust the strength of the flavour
varying how long you dip your
noodles in the soup. Be sure to
grab its crème brûlée as well for
a delicious dessert.
 How to host a
HIBACHI
PARTY
Fire up the coals and put the playlist on repeat.
Backyard get-togethers are taking on a Japanese
flavour and LEE TRAN LAM has the prep sorted.

PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTINA SOLJO. STYLING OLIVIA BLACKMORE.

This page: Hibachi grill from
Knives and Stones. Opposite,
clockwise from top left: premium
charcoal chimney and cedar
cooking sheets from Chef’s
Armoury. Premium binchotan
from Knives and Stones. All other
props stylist’s own.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 73

S
o you want to throw a hibachi party? First
you’d think it would involve a literal
hibachi – but that’s not entirely true. The
original hibachi is a “fire bowl” that dates
back to Japan’s Heian period (794-1185 AD) and
was used to heat rooms and warm hands. Cooking
wasn’t their original purpose. Today, though, the
word “hibachi” has been mistranslated by
Westerners to mean any type of Japanese barbecue
– whether the cooking is done with a konro, irori
or shichirin grill. “It can be a bit confusing,” says
Kei Tokiwa from Sydney’s Amuro sake bar.
The term “hibachi party” can cause head-
scratching, too (especially with Americans using
it to describe private teppanyaki gatherings), but,
semantics aside, it essentially involves cooking over
coal in a highly social way. And that’s something
Australians can get on board with.
“In summer, back at my hometown in
Okayama, we’d always have a yakiniku party on the
hibachi, inviting friends, neighbours and relatives
close by,” says Meg Tanaka from Melbourne’s Cibi.
In springtime, they’d sit under cherry blossom
trees at night and grill a yakitori or yakiniku feast.
“What a celebration!”
Although Tanaka describes cooking with
a hibachi, she clarifies that she means a shichirin,
a portable charcoal stove that’s also sold at her
Japanese café and store. Charring yakitori-style
skewers or thin yakiniku-like cuts of meat over
Party kit Precision tongs in
Stealth Black, arrow point
skewers, and Oigen
Karabana cast-iron trivet, all
from Chef’s Armoury.
Round dishes from Robert
Gordon. All other props
stylist’s own.
a barbecue are low-key but fun ways to keep
everyone fed while socialising outdoors.
Tokiwa took a similar approach with friends in
Kagoshima, for one of the “best” hibachi parties
he’s been to. They packed the shichirin in the back
of the car, along with food and fireworks, and
drove to the location at night. “I thought that was
pretty romantic, with the sparklers,” he says. They
dressed up in traditional summer-friendly clothing
(yukata for women, jinbei for men) and hit the
beach. For similar fun, replicating their exact
wardrobe isn’t totally necessary – any lightweight
clothing that goes over swimwear will do the trick.
Saori Tsuya, from Kazuki’s restaurant in
Melbourne, grew up in Fukuoka and recalls
outdoor hibachi parties in summer, while winter
versions took place in her dad’s shed. “I vividly
remember the time we grilled oysters from
Nagasaki over the fire,” she says. “I thought it
was the best thing I’d ever tasted!”
Her husband Kazuki lived in snowy Akita,
so his hibachi-party equivalent involved a warm,
open-hearth irori that people sat around: they’d
enjoy simmering hotpots, such as nabe with
miso-glazed kiritanpo (rice sticks).
The couple’s contrasting experiences reflect
how flexible the format can be. “It is as broad as
putting on a barbecue,” says Tsuya. A hibachi party
on a tiny balcony can work for roommates. “Or it
can be a bigger version with friends or family.”
Just up the amount of food accordingly. Her Hibachi
party tips
preference is for seafood (“prawns, oysters, scallops,
clams”) and vegetables (“shiitake mushrooms, Lighting and decorations
shishito peppers”) charred over coal. Got prep can help set the scene.
time? Tokiwa recommends soy-marinaded chicken For a playful outdoor party,
wings and foil-wrapped garlic-butter corn as “colourful lanterns in the
low-stress dishes that pay off over the grill. backyard might be cute,”
And music-wise? He suggests city pop (which says Saori Tsuya.
hit Japan in the 1970s and 1980s) or the relaxing
sounds of the three-stringed shamisen. “I’d usually “By the end of the party, the
listen to J-pop for both summer and winter, so that fire can be often at its peak,”
we could sing along to it,” says Mitomo Somehara, says Meg Tanaka. So you’ll
who is from Kyoto and runs various Japanese venues want to start it early, so it’s
in Sydney with Tin Jung Shea and Chris Wu going strong once you’re
(including Yakitori Yurippi featured on page 90). If ready to cook (and not when
he was DJing your hibachi party, he’d probably drop the night is finished).
some Radwimps, famous for their soundtrack to
blockbuster anime hit, Your Name, or the J-pop “You’ll want to do it in an
stylings of Back Number and Mr. Children. open area, not a closed
Should you bust out the karaoke for a hibachi area, unless you’re happy
party? Tsuya thinks if you’re set on some (sake- with all that smoke,” adds
fuelled) singing, plan it for later on. “Karaoke Kei Tokiwa. For cold
demands the audience to participate in the activity, weather, you could follow
like dancing, clapping, swaying, cheering – even if Kazuki’s lead and have an
they are not singing. So people can’t be too busy indoor hotpot cooked over
with cooking and eating when karaoke is a hearth.
happening.” On the plus side, you won’t need
a smoke machine for atmosphere – you’ve already
got a fire. 

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 75
 A

COOKING

CLASS

From venues hidden deep in city backstreets, to rural epicurean

delights, taking a carefully selected cooking class or food tour
can unearth the unexpected, writes KATIE SPAIN.

OF ITS OWN
76 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
 E
ating one’s way through faraway
places is one of life’s ultimate
pleasures but I’ve never been a fan
of cooking schools or food tours.
That was, until a close encounter with
a Japanese home cook changed things.
It happened in Kyoto’s Shimogamo
district; the relaxed residential neighbourhood
home to Taro Saeki, his wife Yoshiko and
their two young daughters. There, in their
two-storey home, Saeki runs Haru Cooking
Class, a business devoted to teaching visitors
about Japanese life and home cooking. The
intimate classes cater for a maximum of eight
people at a time and focus as much on culture
as they do on ingredients.
There’s no flashy website, big marketing
dollars or social media campaigns behind it.
ILLUSTRATIONS HOLLY DORAN & CREATIVE MARKET.
Like most great, grassroots food experiences
and clandestine Japanese treasures, Haru
Cooking Class relies on word-of-mouth
recommendations. That’s how we discovered
this hidden gem back in 2018. In the years
since, business slowed during Covid
restrictions, but demand for unique food
experiences is returning.
“People are travelling again so I host three
classes a week now,” Saeki says. “It’s coming
back to where it was.”
Saeki started his home cooking classes in
2010. “Before international tourism became
big in Japan,” he says. “Previously, I worked
as a hotel manager and always received lots
of requests for tips on things to do in Kyoto.
Back then, people visited temples and shrines
but had little else to do activity-wise. So,
I decided to invite people over to my house
to do some cooking.”
It just made sense. “I’m not a professional
chef but I cook 350 days a year,” he says.
“I wanted to make it more like a half day
homestay to introduce Japanese life to people.”
What started as a hobby is now Saeki’s
full-time job. “I love it,” he says. “At first, my
wife was surprised that I was bringing people
into our house. Now she helps a lot during
classes. She says I spend too much time talking
with my guests but I enjoy that part.”
Saeki grew up in Yokohama, a Japanese
city south of Tokyo. His father worked for
a Japanese shipping company and the family
moved to the US when Saeki was young.
There, he was exposed to global food habits,
which gave him a greater appreciation for the
customs of his homeland. “People in America
didn’t know much about Japan, especially in
the ’90s,” he says. “They barely knew sushi ➤
and even anime wasn’t as popular at the time.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 77
 Now, people are more interested in Japan so
I wanted to take advantage of that and explain
more to them. I want them to see who we are,
what we do, and what we eat.”
He does so in an endearing, immersive
and genuine way. His chosen gateway is
dashi, a Japanese stock made with care and
patience. Traditionally made with kombu
(dried kelp) and katsuobushi (dried bonito
flakes), dashi highlights umami flavours in
myriad Japanese dishes including miso soup,
udon soup, tempura dipping sauce, takoyaki
and okonomiyaki.
“Without dashi, you can’t really cook
Japanese home cuisine,” Taro says. “It’s what
makes Japanese food different from Chinese
food and Korean food.”
Dashi forms the base of the four-hour
cooking class, which kicks off with basics such
as miso soup, and Japanese rice preparation.
“Japanese cooking is focused around rice and
in our home, rice is cooked by 6.50am every
day. Then, we think about what to have with
the rice. Maybe a little egg dish, a vegetable
dish, a meat dish, and a fish dish. That’s why
you see rice and four or five other little things
in a Japanese bento box.”
Dishes vary, depending on the day but
a typical class includes the likes of oyakodon,
a comfort food favourite made from chicken,
onion and egg served over rice; aemono
(Japanese pickled salad), tempura sauce,
citrus-based ponzu sauce, and wagyu beef
which comes with a masterclass on marbling.
78 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
Then there’s the delicate and deliberate
art of making tamagoyaki, a Japanese omelette
made by gently rolling several layers of eggs.
The sense of fulfilment after perfecting the
technique is euphoric. It all happens in
a rectangular pan called a tamagoyaki-nabe.
All of this is consumed at the Saeki family
kitchen table, along with explanations about
etiquette, condiments and tableware.
“I want to be as honest and open as
possible,” Saeki says. “That’s most important
to me. I don’t want to be pretentious. I want
people to feel that they’ve learned more just
by being here for three or four hours than
they would elsewhere.”
The quiet-spoken host is as generous with
his local tips as he is with his living space.
“There’s a food market near my house
which is not as big as Nishiki Market, which
is in the city centre but it’s less touristy,” he
says. “It’s quarter the size and maybe not as
lively but there’s a dried goods store there
that’s very good. It’s where the locals go
so, you’ll hear less English spoken but the
store owner is very open minded and when
I introduced my guests, he is very supportive.”
It all harks back to word-of-mouth
recommendations and a personal touch.
There’s a degree of trust involved in opening
one’s home to strangers and guests leave with
hearts and stomachs full. As the Saeki family
waves goodbye, you can’t help but feel more
connected to Japan than you were just four
hours ago. 
kyoto-cooking-class.com
 ALSO TRY
OI S H II TO U R S , TOKYO, KYOTO,
OSAKA AND KANAZAWA
Prefer eating to cooking? I usually
prefer to explore a city based on my
own internal compass but booked
a private Oishii Food Tour with co-
founder Meg Sakuma after a glowing
recommendation from a trusted friend.
The tour of Tokyo’s Toyosu Market was
no ordinary taste-and-walk jaunt. At
7.30am, Sakuma led my travel partner
and I through the mammoth wholesale
fish and produce market, disguised in
baseball caps and flannelette shirts in
order to look like fishmonger locals.
What unfolded was an unforgettable
and personal introduction to top-
quality tuna vendors. The experience
was so impressive we booked three
more tours during our three-week
holiday. These included the Yanaka
Tour, which ventures into one of the
few remaining Shitamachi (“lower city”)
neighbourhoods that survived the
Great Kantō earthquake in 1923, and
the Izakaya Nightlife Tour; a tasty toe-
dip into the food and beverage haunts
of Ebisu. The off-the-beaten track
adventures unearthed secret bars and
restaurants we’d otherwise never have
accessed with such a warm welcome.
Largely because Sakuma is an utter
delight. oishiitours.com
RYU GO N
This accommodation is set in an
ancient Ryugon temple in Japan’s
Niigata snow region and offers two
cooking classes. Learn to make
a traditional Niigata winter hot pot
or kenchin jiru (vegetable soup) with
a local then bathe in the hot springs
when you’re done. ryugon.co.jp
C O O K IN G STU D IO
KANAZAWA SALO N
A four-hour class that puts a spotlight
on koji as a key ingredient in place
of salt. Locally brewed sake and beer
is served while you learn to make
sushi, vegan ramen or the traditional
Ishikawa dish Jibuni (duck, chicken or
tofu simmered in a thick soy-based
broth). cookingkanazawa.com
HANDS-ON WAGASHI
WOR K SH O P
A one-hour class on how to use
wasanbon (sugar traditionally
made in the Shikoku prefectures of
Tokushima and Kagawa) to make tiny
sugar sweets. The class takes place
in master woodworker Yoshihiro
Ichihara’s workshop in downtown
Takamatsu. There, his English-speaking
daughter uses her father’s wooden
moulds to create the delicate works
of edible art that are later served with
green tea. mamehana-kasikigata.com
L E AR N TO C O O K WI T H
LOCAL GRANNIES
A translator is on hand when you join
elderly residents from the tiny village
of Sasahara. The knowledge-packed
locals share their wisdom as you make
local dishes: choose from recipes such
as agar cake or rustic mochi (Japanese
rice cake). It all takes places in the rural
town at the foothills of the Yatsugatake
Mountains. chinotabi.jp 
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 79
 T H E full
SQUID

Pipit chef Ben Devlin takes his closed-loop approach from ocean
to table, and then to the walls, via the Japanese art of gyotaku.

Photography ELISE HASSEY

80 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 81
82 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
Clockwise from above: grilling the
squid tube; scoring for texture; chef
Ben Devlin plates up; the whole raw
squid; and the final dish, bamboo
shoots, grilled squid marinated in
sake with brown butter, squid garum
and salted preserved yuzu, finished
with squid garum jellies. Opposite:
Ben Devlin and Yen Trinh at Pipit.

“When I first saw this Japanese style of art, it

grabbed me, inspiring me to get involved.”

I
n Pottsville, Pipit chef Ben Devlin is putting
the “closed-loop philosophy” of his restaurant
into action. And it’s a beautiful thing.
Working in the Pipit dining room (though
he usually makes art in the kitchen when the
restaurant is closed), his muse for the day is a locally
sourced squid, which stars as both the subject and
medium in his gyotaku practice.
Gyotaku is an ancient Japanese art form where
sea creatures are used as “printing plates” to create
squid ink impressions on rice paper. At Pipit, which
Devlin and his wife Yen Trinh own together, the art
form dresses the walls and is sold on the website as
an extension of the restaurant’s sustainable ethos.
First the squid is cleaned, then the ink is
harvested. To make the print Devlin covers the
squid in its ink and presses it with rice paper then
uses the ink and a calligraphy brush to paint in the
eyes and fine details. This is the point where the art
form usually stops but Devlin takes it further,
cleaning the squid again, breaking it down, and
using the parts to make a delicate dish of bamboo
shoots, sake marinated squid, yuzu and squid garum.
Devlin says, “As a chef I had access to the ingredients,
this felt like a wonderful way to honour them.” ➤

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 83
 “I liked taking the whole product – the raw
product if not the live product – then using it
to make something beautiful so it can live on.”

84 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
Clockwise from above: Devlin prints
the rice paper; Pipit recipe book
on display; offcuts used to make
garum; squid body finely sliced into
“noodles”; Devlin in action; preparing
the ink. Opposite, clockwise from left:
Devlin’s Calamari and its Ink print in
Pipit’s dining room; Devlin glazes the
squid with garum before grilling; and
prepares the whole squid for printing.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 85
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 M AY

Oishii eats
The Yakitori Yurippi team share their street food
secrets, washoku and the art of traditional
feasting, plus a lesson in sandoitchi.

Washoku in
motion

p98
PHOTOGRAPHY JAMES MOFFATT.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 89
 Words ANNA McCOOE
Photography BEN DEARNLEY
EDO ON
TIN JUNG SHEA of Sydney’s Yakitori Yurippi shares the
secrets to mastering this favourite Japanese street food snack.
A STICK
I
s this the moment Japanese food
in Australia gets rowdy? Tin Jung
Shea thinks so. And he is stating
his case loudly and clearly at his
Crows Nest yakitori bar, Yakitori
Yurippi. The sizzling, snacky, boozy den
of Japanese street energy is a throwback
to Shea’s exchange student era. This was
spent studying engineering at Sapporo
University by day and cramming into
yakitori bars by night, ordering skewer
after delicious skewer and tasty sides.
There’s artistry here. Take for
instance the dice-sized pieces of chicken
all in a row or the never-ending tare,
which is replenished each night. Yet the
mood is more casual than cloistered.
Styling STEVE PEARCE
Food preparation JESSICA BROOK
As Shea puts it, “Yakitori is street
food. It’s meant to be fast and cheerful;
it’s food for the people.” And while
yakitori literally means “grilled bird”
the term is shorthand for a relaxed style
of eating delicious snacks on sticks.
Shea and friend Mitomo Somehara
got their yakitori start at the Crows Nest
Markets before opening Yurippi in 2015.
Last year Chris Wu came to the hibachi
party and the Hatena Group was
formed. The Japanese hospitality group
now has four venues, all with the same
litmus test. Shea explains, “We say
when the Japanese stop coming to
eat we’ve done something wrong.”
yurippi.com.au
Yakitori Hechimon
Shigaraki Lotus Leaf
dish with Legs and
Ceramic-Ai Ceramic
Curry Deep dish (leaf
plate) from Kakumei.
All other props
stylist’s own.

Yakitori negima

p 92

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 91
YAKITORI NEGIMA
Chicken and spring
onion skewers
MAKES 10 // PREP TIME 25 MINS // COOK 10 MINS
(PLUS RESTING)

“You want perfect 3 to 4cm cubes

for the chicken. Too small and the
chicken dries up. Too big and it won’t
cook through,” says Tin Jung Shea.
“And it’s important there are no gaps
between the chicken and shallot
to trap heat and juices.”
Pictured p91

600 gm chicken thigh fillets, skin on,

cut into 3-4cm cubes
3 thick spring onions, cut into 4cm lengths
Tare, for brushing (see recipe p95)
Char-grilled corn cobs, to serve

1 Preheat a charcoal barbecue (hibachi)

or gas barbecue to medium-high.
2 Meanwhile, thread 4 chicken pieces
onto bamboo skewers (soak skewers for
30 minutes in water to minimise burning),
alternating with spring onion. Brush with
tare, then grill, turning and brushing
occasionally, until the outside is charred
slightly and cooked through (8-10
minutes). Rest for 5 minutes then serve
drizzled with extra tare and charred corn
cobs on the side.

Miso glaze
MAKES 400ML // PREP TIME 5 MINS // COOK 5 MINS
(PLUS COOLING)

“This tasty glaze pairs beautifully with

vegetables or chicken,” says Shea.
“At home, brush it on towards the end
of cooking or the skewer might burn.”

50 ml sake
50 ml mirin
100 gm caster sugar
200 gm aka (red) miso

1 Combine sake, mirin and caster sugar

in a small saucepan over low heat. Cook,
stirring occasionally, until sugar dissolves
(3-5 minutes). Transfer to a bowl with Zucchini Fukui Craft
sake cup in Green
miso and stir to combine. Cool, then store
and Brown 50cc from
in an airtight container in the fridge for Kakumei. All other
up to 2 months. props stylist’s own.

Zucchini skewers
MAKES 10 // PREP TIME 5 MINS // COOK 5 MINS
2 zucchini (250gm each), cut into
2cm rounds
Miso glaze, for brushing (see
recipe p92)
Pickled cucumber, to serve
1 Preheat a charcoal barbecue (hibachi)
or gas barbecue to high.
2 Meanwhile, thread 2 pieces of
zucchini onto bamboo skewers (soak
skewers for 30 minutes in water to
minimise burning).
3 Grill, turning frequently until starting
to colour (2-3 minutes). Brush with miso
glaze; grill for a further 1 minute or until
charred. Serve brushed with extra miso
glaze and pickled cucumber on the side.
Onigiri
MAKES 12 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 30 MINS
(PLUS COOLING, REFRIGERATING)
460 gm (2 cups) glutinous rice
Miso glaze, for brushing (see
recipe p92)
2 toasted nori sheets, cut into
6cm-squares
Freshly grated wasabi, to serve
1 Cook rice according to packet
instructions. Once cooked, spread
out on a tray and stand until cool
enough to handle (20 minutes).
2 Preheat a charcoal barbecue
(hibachi) or gas barbecue to high.
3 Using wet hands, shape sticky
rice into 12 balls (110gm each), applying
pressure with your palms and fingers
until a firm ball is created. Place on
a tray lined with baking paper and slightly
press to flatten and shape into a triangle.
Cover loosely with baking paper and
refrigerate for 30 minutes to firm up.
4 Grill onigiri, turning occasionally,
until lightly charred each side
(7-8 minutes). Brush with miso glaze
and cook until charred and crisp
(2 minutes). Place squares of toasted
nori on serving plates and top with
onigiri. Brush with miso glaze and
serve with freshly grated wasabi. ➤
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 93
94 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
HOTATE
Scallops in half shell
MAKES 12 // PREP TIME 5 MINS // COOK 2 MINS

12 large scallops in the half shell,

roe removed
Melted salted butter, for drizzling
12 purple shiso leaves
Shio kombu (see note), to serve

1 Preheat a charcoal barbecue (hibachi)

or gas barbecue to high.
2 Remove scallops from shells and rinse
shells. Grill scallops until golden (30
seconds each side). Return scallops to
shells, drizzle with melted salted butter.
Place shells on barbecue and cook until
butter simmers (1-2 minutes). Transfer to
a serving platter and place a purple shiso
leaf under each scallop. Scatter with shio
kombu; serve immediately.
Note Shio kombu is kelp cooked in soy
sauce, mirin and sugar, then dried and
cut into small pieces. It is available from
Japanese and Asian supermarkets.

Okra with ponzu and

bonito flakes
MAKES 6 // PREP TIME 5 MINS // COOK 5 MINS

12 okra, trimmed, halved lengthways Tare

Bonito flakes (see note),
for scattering
PONZU SAUCE
100 ml soy sauce
60 ml (¼ cup) lemon juice
1 tbsp rice wine vinegar
1 Preheat a charcoal barbecue (hibachi)
or gas barbecue to high.
2 For ponzu sauce, combine ingredients
and set aside at room temperature. Store
leftovers in an airtight container in the
refrigerator for up to 2 months.
3 Thread 4 pieces of okra widthways
onto bamboo skewers (soak skewers for
30 minutes in water to minimise burning).
Grill, turning frequently, until charred and
tender (3-4 minutes). Serve scattered
with bonito flakes and ponzu sauce on
the side.
Note Bonito flakes (katsuobushi) are
available from Japanese grocers.
MAKES 400ML // PREP TIME 5 MINS // COOK 10 MINS
(PLUS COOLING)
“At Yurippi our tare, used as
a multipurpose glaze and dipping sauce,
is always evolving. We just keep adding
to it with drippings and leftovers from
the night before,” says Shea. “Some
of our secret additions include minced
ginger and garlic, leek and corn.”
250 ml (1 cup) soy sauce
125 ml (½ cup) mirin
125 ml (½ cup) sake
110 gm (½ cup) brown sugar
1 Place ingredients in a saucepan and
bring to the boil. Reduce heat to low and
reduce, stirring occasionally, until slightly
thickened (10-12 minutes). Cool, store in
an airtight container in the refrigerator
for up to 2 months. ➤

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 95
 Pork shiso skewers
MAKES 6 // PREP TIME 25 MINS // COOK 10 MINS
(PLUS SETTING, RESTING)

“Leave some fat – the flavour comes

from oil dripping on coals,” says Shea.

1.2 kg thin piece skinless pork belly,

fat trimmed
15 purple shiso leaves, stalks removed
Tare, for brushing (see recipe p95)
Edamame and umeboshi (see note),
to serve

1 Preheat a charcoal barbecue (hibachi)

or gas barbecue to medium.
2 Place pork skin-side down on a work
surface and evenly place shiso leaves
slightly overlapping over pork. Roll up
pork lengthways, then tightly wrap in
plastic wrap; freeze for 30 minutes to set.
Slice pork widthways into 12, 2cm-thick
slices. Using two skewers, horizontally
skewer two rolled pork slices.
3 Grill skewers, turning frequently, until
beginning to colour. Brush with tare and
continue to grill, turning frequently, until
charred and cooked (8-10 minutes). Rest
for 5 minutes. Serve drizzled with extra
tare and with edamame and umeboshi.
Note Umeboshi (preserved Japanese
plums) are available from Japanese and
Asian grocers.

Cabbage salad
SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 10 MINS

400 gm coarsely chopped white cabbage

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 tbsp sesame oil
2 tsp sesame seeds, toasted, plus extra
to serve
Shio kombu and shichimi togarashi
(see note), for scattering

1 Place ingredients in a bowl, season and

toss to combine. Transfer to a serving
bowl and scatter with extra sesame seeds,
shio kombu and shichimi togarashi.
Note Shio kombu and shichimi togarashi
are available from Japanese grocers.

96 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
TSUKUNE
Chicken meatball
skewers
MAKES 12 // PREP TIME 25 MINS // COOK 16 MINS
(PLUS REFRIGERATING)
“The tsukune is one of Yurippi’s original
recipes. It evolved over the years
through input from staff and it pairs
well with beer or our Suntory Toki
Highballs,” says Shea. Begin this recipe
a day ahead.
1small onion, finely chopped
1tsp finely grated ginger
1garlic clove, finely grated
3spring onions, green part only,
finely chopped
1 egg, lightly beaten
600 gm skinless chicken thigh fillets,
pulsed in food processor until
finely chopped
200 gm minced chicken
Tare, for brushing (see recipe p95)
Vegetable oil, for cooking
1 Place ingredients, except tare in
a bowl; mix until well combined. Cover
and refrigerate overnight for flavours
to develop.
2 Preheat a charcoal barbecue (hibachi)
or gas barbecue to medium-high.
3 Meanwhile, using damp hands,
divide mixture into 12 and shape into
oblong meatballs.
4 Heat a large frying pan with a little
vegetable oil over medium heat. Cook
meatballs, in batches if necessary,
turning frequently, until lightly browned
and just cooked (6-8 minutes).
5 Push meatballs onto bamboo skewers
(soak skewers for 30 minutes in water to
minimise burning) and brush with tare.
Grill, brushing and rotating skewers with
more tare until lightly charred (5-6
minutes). Serve drizzled with extra tare.
Potato salad
SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 30 MINS
700 gm Desiree potatoes, peeled, halved
1 large Lebanese cucumber, halved
lengthways, seeds removed,
finely chopped
75 gm Kewpie (Japanese) mayonnaise
Mentaiko (see note), for scattering
1 Place potato in a saucepan and add
enough cold water to cover; boil over
medium heat until tender (25-30
minutes); drain then mash. Cool slightly.
2 Combine potato, cucumber and
mayonnaise in a bowl; season to taste
and cool to room temperature. Divide
among serving plates and top with
mentaiko, to serve.
Note Mentaiko, salted cod roe, is
available from select Japanese and
Asian grocers. 
Pork shiso Hechimon
Shigaraki Ceramic Sasa
Leaf plate and Satsuma
Kiriko Whisky glass in
Green, Edo Kiriko, from
Kakumei. Potato salad
Hechimon Shigaraki
Green Leaf bowl from
Kakumei. All other props
stylist’s own.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 97
WASHOKU
Japan’s traditional food, known as washoku, is equal
parts philosophy and heritage. The concept combines
gratitude with harmony and skill with seasonal eating.
Here, we have created a modern washoku menu.

IN
Grilled salmon
tataki with lime
and jalapeño
ponzu

p 103

MOTION
 Photography JAMES MOFFATT

Styling OLIVIA BLACKMORE

Recipes TAMIKA O’NEILL

Drinks suggestions SAMANTHA PAYNE

Pickled radish Small

black dish (with wasabi)
from Robert Gordon.
Salmon Sadaaki Kido
Shino sake cup from
Pickled radish Provider Store. All other
and cabbage with props stylist’s own.
shio koji

p 107

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 99
Crisp pork and ginger gyozas with sesame rayu
MAKES 30 // PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 20 MINS (PLUS COOLING)

Crisp on the outside, juicy on the inside, these pan-fried parcels are pure joy to eat. But it’s the ritual of
preparation; the communal folding, pinching and pleating, that takes this dish to its appreciative peak.

125 gm (2 cups) shredded Chinese 1 For sesame rayu, heat oil, onion, the edge 5 times. Fold over to enclose
cabbage garlic and ginger in a small saucepan the filling. Place on a tray and repeat with
400 gm minced pork over low heat until small bubbles rise remaining mixture and wrappers.
4 dried shiitake mushrooms, to the surface (8-10 minutes). Meanwhile, 4 Heat peanut oil in a large frying pan
rehydrated, finely diced combine remaining ingredients, except over medium-high heat. In batches,
2 tsp each finely grated ginger, sesame seeds, in a small, heatproof space gyozas out over the base of the
soy sauce and shiro (white) miso bowl. Pour hot oil mixture over chilli frying pan. Cook until the base is crisp
¼ tsp ground white pepper mixture and combine. Set aside for and golden (3 minutes). Pour in ¼ cup
½ cup finely chopped coriander 1 hour to cool. Strain through a sieve water and cook covered until gyozas are
leaves and stems and discard solids. Add sesame seeds just cooked and water has evaporated
30 round gyoza wrappers to oil and set aside until required. (4-5 minutes). Remove lid and cook until
2 tsp peanut oil 2 For filling, place cabbage in base is crisp (2 minutes). Repeat with
SESAME RAYU a colander. Sprinkle with 1 tsp fine remaining gyoza. Serve with sesame rayu.
250 ml (1 cup) vegetable oil cooking salt and set aside for 10
2 spring onions, cut into 3cm batons minutes. Squeeze out excess moisture Drink suggestion Dewazakura Seijo
6 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped and transfer to a large bowl with pork, Karakuchi, Yamagata prefecture. ➤
15 gm ginger, thinly sliced mushrooms, ginger, soy, miso, pepper
2 tbsp chilli flakes and coriander. Mix until combined.
1 tbsp togarashi 3 To make gyozas, spoon a heaped
1 tsp chilli powder teaspoon of mixture onto the centre of
3 star anise the wrapper. Brush the edge with a little
2 tsp toasted sesame seeds water and using your fingertips, pleat
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 101
 Mushroom miso soup
SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 5 MINS // COOK 10 MINS

Miso soup is the linchpin of teishoku, which is rice, miso soup, pickles and three side
dishes. With the addition of mushrooms it becomes a home-style meal in its own right.

10 gm dashi powder
¼ cup each shiro (white) miso and
wakame seaweed
1 tsp finely grated ginger
1 strip lemon peel
100 gm oyster mushrooms
100 gm enoki mushrooms, tips reserved
100 gm dried shiitake mushrooms,
rehydrated
200 gm silken tofu, cut into 2cm cubes
2 spring onions, thinly sliced
1 tsp furikake (see note)
Micro tatsoi and purple shiso,
to serve
1 Combine dashi powder with 1.5 litres
water in a saucepan over high heat.
Bring to the boil, reduce temperature
to medium and simmer for 4 minutes.
Whisk in miso until dissolved.
2 Add wakame, ginger, lemon peel and
mushrooms. Simmer for 2 minutes.
Remove from heat.
3 To serve, divide tofu among four
bowls. Ladle 1½ cups miso soup over
tofu. Sprinkle with reserved enoki
mushrooms tips, spring onion, furikake,
tatsoi and shiso. Serve immediately.
Note Furikake is a Japanese seasoning
that contains roasted sesame seeds,
nori, bonito flakes, salt and sugar. It can
also contain egg, shiso, wasabi,
powdered miso, freeze-dried salmon,
cod roe, and controversially, MSG. It is
available from Japanese grocers and
select supermarkets.
Drink suggestion Amanoto Tenkuro
Junmai Genshu, Akita prefecture.

102 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
 Grilled salmon tataki with lime
and jalapeño ponzu
SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 10 MINS // COOK 5 MINS (PLUS RESTING)

The searing kiss of heat and aromatic sesame gives sashimi-grade salmon extra oomph. In
washoku, tataki is served as a first course known as o-tsukuri, meaning to create, or arrange.
Salmon Sadaaki Kido Shino
sake cup and wooden
chopstick rest, both from 600 gm sashimi-grade salmon, skin 1 For ponzu, place ingredients, except
Provider Store. Mushroom removed and pin-boned jalapeño, in a small bowl and stir until
miso Bamboo ladle from 1 tsp sesame oil sugar dissolves.
Provider Store. All other
props stylist’s own.
½ Lebanese cucumber, seeds removed, 2 Preheat a frying pan over high heat.
finely chopped Drizzle salmon with sesame oil. Cook
1 tsp each lime zest and chilli oil salmon for 30 seconds each side or until
Micro nasturtium leaves, to serve the flesh is slightly opaque. Transfer to
LIME AND JALAPEÑO PONZU a chopping board and rest for 5 minutes
60 ml (¼ cup) soy sauce before slicing into thin pieces.
2 tbsp lime juice 3 Arrange salmon on a platter. Add
1 tsp each caster sugar and rice jalapeño to ponzu and drizzle over
wine vinegar salmon. Top with, cucumber, zest,
1 small jalapeño chilli, thinly sliced chilli oil and micro nasturtium leaves.

Drink suggestion Yoshinogawa

Hiyanama, Niigata prefecture.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 103
104 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
 Teriyaki beef Cafe
tray in Brown from
Provider Store.
All other props
stylist’s own.

Slow-cooked teriyaki beef ribs

SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 4 HRS 15 MINS

Cooked in the oven until the meat falls away from the bone then finished on the
barbecue for a delicious char, these ribs are bound to promote gratitude all round.
Before the meal, it’s traditional to say “itadakimasu”, meaning “I humbly receive”.

2.8 kg rack of beef ribs 1 For spice rub, combine ingredients,

1 bunch spring onions, trimmed plus 1 tsp sea salt flakes, in a small bowl.
Sesame oil, for brushing 2 Pat ribs dry with paper towel. Peel
Toasted sesame seeds and steamed away thin membrane on the bone side.
rice, to serve Rub spice mix all over ribs to completely
Trio of Japanese pickles, to serve cover then place on a roasting tray.
(see recipe p107) 3 Preheat oven to 160˚C. Combine
SPICE RUB teriyaki sauce ingredients and 125ml
2 tbsp sweet paprika water in a jug; pour into tray. then cover
75 gm (1⁄3 cup) brown sugar with foil. Bake for 4 hours or until meat
1 tsp each ground ginger, is tender and pulls away from the bone.
garlic powder 4 Preheat a barbecue or char-grill pan
½ tsp ground white pepper on medium-high heat. Lightly brush
TERIYAKI SAUCE spring onions with oil, then barbecue,
80 ml (1⁄3 cup) each soy sauce, turning occasionally, until charred
sake and mirin (2-3 minutes).
2 tbsp sriracha 5 Spoon teriyaki sauce from the pan
over ribs to coat. Barbecue, turning
frequently and basting occasionally,
until charred and caramelised. Transfer
to a large platter with barbecued spring
onions and drizzle with remaining
teriyaki. Scatter with toasted sesame
seeds and serve with rice and pickles.

Drink suggestion Fukuju Junmai Ginjo,

Nada, Hyogo prefecture. ➤

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 105
 Black sesame crème
brûlée
SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 40 MINS
(PLUS CHILLING)
Nutty black sesame takes this decadent
French classic on a Japanese side trip.
2 tbsp each black sesame seeds
and honey
5 egg yolks
1 tsp vanilla extract
75 gm (1⁄3 cup) caster sugar, plus extra
for scattering
500 ml (2 cups) thickened cream
1 Preheat oven to 160°C or 140°C
fan-forced. Toast sesame seeds for 15
seconds. Transfer to a spice grinder and
grind to a fine powder. Mix powder with
honey to form a paste.
2 Whisk together egg yolks, vanilla and
sugar in a bowl until dissolved.
3 Place sesame paste and cream in a
small saucepan over low heat; whisk to
combine. Cook, stirring occasionally until
just beginning to simmer (10 minutes). Pour
60ml of heated cream into egg mixture to
temper then continue gradually adding
heated cream, whisking, to combine.
4 Divide mixture among four 300ml
ramekins. Place ramekins in a roasting
pan. Add enough boiling water to reach
halfway up the sides; bake until set but
with a slight wobble in the middle (30-35
minutes). Remove ramekins from water;
cool for 30 minutes. Cover with plastic
wrap and chill for 4 hours or until set.
5 Sprinkle brûlées evenly with extra
sugar. Caramelise with a blowtorch,
stand for 5 minute or until caramelised
sugar is crisp.
Drink suggestion Hombo Shuzo Joto
Chiran-Cha Umeshu, Kagoshima
prefecture.
106 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
Pear and green apple
winter slaw
SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 5 MINS
With fine slithers of apple and pear this
punchy side is a balancing force on the
washoku table.
1 each green apple, Packham pear and
nashi, cut into julienne and sliced
50 gm shredded daikon
30 gm mizuna
Purple shiso, to serve
YUZU KOSHU AND SESAME VINAIGRETTE
2 tbsp lemon juice
1 tbsp soy sauce
1 tsp each sesame oil
1 tsp yuzu kosho (see note)
1 For vinaigrette, place ingredients
in a bowl, season to taste and whisk
to combine.
2 To serve, combine apple, pear, nashi,
daikon, mizuna and shiso in bowl;
drizzle over dressing.
Note Yuzu kosho is a Japanese
condiment made from fresh chillies
(usually green) combined with the rind
and juice of the fragrantly tart yuzu, then
fermented. Available from Japanese
grocers and select supermarkets.
Drink suggestion Heiwa Shuzo Yuzushu,
Wakayama prefecture.
Trio of Japanese pickles
SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 10 MINS (PLUS PICKLING, COOLING)
Pictured p99

CUCUMBER AND SESAME GINGER IN PLUM VINEGAR
125 ml (½ cup) rice wine vinegar 100 gm young ginger, thinly sliced
1 tbsp caster sugar 125 ml (½ cup) ume (see note)
1 tsp sesame oil 125 ml (½ cup) mirin
1 garlic clove, crushed 2½ tbsp caster sugar
2 Lebanese cucumbers, thinly sliced 1-2 drops red food colouring
RADISH AND CABBAGE WITH SHIO KOJI 1 For cucumber pickle, in a bowl whisk
60 ml (¼ cup) mirin together vinegar, sugar, oil and garlic.
1 tbsp sesame oil Add cucumbers and toss to coat. Pickle
2 tbsp rice wine vinegar for 15 minutes before serving. Drain.
1 bunch watermelon radish, 2 For radish and cabbage, combine mirin,
thinly sliced sesame oil and vinegar in a small bowl.
1 tsp shio koji (see note) Reserve half of the dressing. Add radish;
2 tsp toasted sesame seeds pickle for 10 minutes. Combine shio koji,
2 tsp sesame oil sesame seeds and oil, and garlic in
1 garlic clove, crushed a large bowl. Using your hands, rub
350 gm white cabbage, washed, mixture over cabbage to coat. Transfer
coarsely chopped to a dish and top with pickled radish and
drizzle with reserved dressing.
3 For ginger in plum vinegar, bring
a saucepan of water to the boil. Blanch
ginger until softened slightly
(2-3 minutes). Drain and spread out
onto paper towel, stand until dried
(4-5 minutes). Combine ume, mirin,
sugar, 1 tsp sea salt flakes and food
colouring in a small bowl. Add ginger
and pickle for 15 minutes before serving.
Note Ume (plum vinegar) is available
from Japanese grocers. If unavailable,
substitute red wine vinegar. Shio koji
(koji salt) is available from Japanese
grocers. If unavailable, substitute
chicken stock powder.
Drink suggestion Kidoizumi
Shuzo Shizenmai Sparkling,
Chiba prefecture. 
 Hokkaido
scallop
katsu and
green
onion nori

p 112

SUPER SANDO
In his new book Cult Sando, chef JIMMY CALLAWAY shares
the Japanese art of the perfectly pressed sandoitchi.
 Agedashi
tofu with
tsuyu sauce

p 112

I
n Japan, sando are everywhere:
on convenience store shelves,
Shinkansen menus and even in
vending machines. Their rising
popularity in the West over the past
decade means sandos now appear on
the menus of high-end restaurants and
hipster pop-ups everywhere.
Perhaps the popularity of sando is
due to their seemingly simple design.
As with all great inventions, however,
sando are not always as they seem.
They are a culinary example of the
Japanese pursuit of perfection, but
what makes sando unique among
sandwiches is that they are wrapped
and pressed. This unites the filling
and bread so that, when cut, they
make a beautiful cross-section. They
are usually served chilled or at room
temperature, but almost never hot,
even with a katsu filling.
Sando falls into the culinary food
group of yoshoku, which roughly
translates to “Western food”. The
Japanese version uses a bread called
shokupan. This sweet, light milk bread
is as ubiquitous in Japan as katsu,
gyoza, udon and ramen.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 109
 Pork cutlet, tonkatsu
sauce and white
cabbage
MAKES 2 // PREP/COOK TIME 40 MINS // PRESS TIME
15 MINS
“Behold, the most famous katsu! The
secret is a triple threat of fatty high-
quality pork, nama panko, and a sweet,
tangy tonkatsu sauce,” says Callaway.
4 slices shokupan
1 litre canola oil, for frying
150 gm (1 cup) plain flour
3 eggs, whisked
250 gm (4 cups) nama panko (see note)
2 x 180 gm pork cutlets, sliced 2cm thick,
then cut into 10cm x 10cm pieces
60 gm white cabbage, finely shredded
80 gm salted butter, softened
100 ml tonkatsu sauce
1 Put oil in deep fryer and set to 90°C.
PHOTOGRAPHY ALAN BENSON.
2 To set up a crumbing station, in three
consecutive trays, place plain flour first,
eggs second and nama panko third.
3 With a skewer, thoroughly prick
the surface of the pork (this will aid
the cooking).
4 Lightly dust pork on all surfaces with
flour, removing the excess. Coat in
eggwash. Repeat flour and eggwash,
then finish by covering thoroughly with
nama panko.
5 Gently place pork katsu in deep fryer
for 4 minutes (crumb should be light
blonde in colour). Remove from fryer and
place on a wire rack. Set fryer to 170°C.
Once at temperature, fry katsu for a
further 1 minute. Surface should now be
golden brown and very crisp.
6 Place on a wire rack, standing upright,
to drain for 6 minutes. Once rested, lay
flat and drizzle half the tonkatsu sauce
over the two pieces.
7 Evenly spread the butter across four
slices of shokupan. Divide shredded
cabbage across bottom slices of bread.
8 Lay pork katsu on cabbage, sauce
side down, and drizzle over the
remaining tonkatsu sauce. Top with
remaining slices of shokupan.
9 Wrap in plastic wrap and press for
15 minutes.
10 To serve, trim crusts and cut into
thirds widthways.
Note Nama panko are fresh
breadcrumbs made from shokupan.
They are typically used in the top katsu
restaurants in Japan because, once fried,
the result is an exceptionally crisp
coating. To make nama panko, remove
the crusts from a loaf of shokupan.
Shred the remaining bread into bite-
sized pieces. If you prefer a finer crumb,
once shredded, you can place in a food
processor and blitz. Store in an airtight
container until needed. ➤
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 111
 Agedashi tofu with tsuyu sauce
MAKES 2 // PREP/COOK TIME 20 MINS // PRESS TIME 20 MINS

“Based on the popular starter, this surprisingly satisfying sando reworks the traditional flavour
combination of salty soy and smoky, savoury benito flakes,” says Callaway. Pictured p109

4 slices shokupan 2 Once boiled, remove from the heat Place spring onion on top of daikon.
300 gm silken tofu and use immediately, or store in an Take fried tofu and place on one side,
3 litre canola oil, for frying airtight container and serve cold at a with 1 tsp sauce on top. Cover with
380 gm (2 cups) potato starch later time. benito flakes, then top with remaining
50 gm daikon, peeled and 3 Cut the tofu lengthways and place slices of shokupan.
coarsely grated both halves between several layers of 7 Wrap in plastic wrap and press for
1 spring onion stalk, finely diced paper towel to drain for 15 minutes. 20 minutes.
1 packet (2gm) benito flakes 4 Put oil in deep fryer and set to 175°C. 8 To serve, trim crusts and cut
TSUYU GLAZE 5 Meanwhile, place potato starch on a lengthways. Garnish with leftover
100 ml dashi stock (see note) plate. Once tofu is dry, gently dust in benito flakes.
25 ml shoyu (soy sauce) potato starch. Deep-fry until crispy, about Note Dashi stock can be found
25 ml mirin 3 minutes. Place onto a wire rack and at Japanese grocers.
allow excess oil to drain for 2 minutes.
1 For tsuyu glaze, in a small saucepan, 6 To assemble, spread 1 tbsp tsuyu
place dashi, shoyu and mirin, and bring glaze evenly across two slices of
to the boil over medium heat. shokupan. Evenly distribute daikon over.

Hokkaido scallop katsu and green onion nori

MAKES 2 // PREP/COOK TIME 40 MINS (PLUS DRYING) // PRESS TIME 3 MINS

A sando of individually fried scallop katsu nestled in aromatic fried spring onion,
sesame oil and nori mayo. Pictured p108

4 slices shokupan mayo, sesame oil and powdered nori. 6 Remove scallops from panko and
3 litre canola oil, for frying Whisk together until completely gently place in deep fryer. Cook until
2 tbsp sesame oil combined. To store, place a small piece golden brown, about 1 minute.
2 spring onions, green part only, of plastic wrap directly on top of mayo 7 When ready, remove and drain on
finely diced to prevent a skin forming. Store in a cool paper towels. Evenly spread nori mayo
2 cups dried panko crumbs place, ready for later use. over two slices of shokupan and place
2 tbsp rice flour 2 Put canola oil in deep fryer and set spring onion on the remaining slices.
150 gm (1 cup) plain flour to 180°C. 8 Place six scallops over the spring
2 eggs, whisked 3 Heat sesame oil in a small saucepan onions. Top with remaining shokupan
8 large whole scallops, cleaned and over medium heat for 1 minute. Add slices, nori mayo side down.
dried between paper towels for spring onions and stir for 20 seconds. 9 Wrap in plastic wrap and press for
6 hours in the refrigerator Remove from heat and allow to cool. 3 minutes. To serve, trim crusts and cut
NORI MAYO 4 Combine panko and rice flour. Set up in thirds widthways.
½ sheet nori, toasted (see note) a crumbing station: in three consecutive Note To toast nori, take one corner of
60 gm (1⁄4 cup) Japanese mayo trays, place plain flour first, eggs second a nori sheet and gently fan over a low
1-2 ml sesame oil and panko mixture third. to medium flame or charcoal embers
5 Remove scallops from fridge and roll until it becomes aromatic and crisp.
1 For nori mayo, tear toasted nori into in plain flour, followed by eggwash and Do not rush, because nori burns quite
small pieces and place in a blender. Blitz then panko mixture. Allow to sit in panko easily. Use immediately.
on high until it resembles a fine powder, mixture for 4 minutes, ensuring each
about 90 seconds. In a small bowl, add scallop is completely covered.

112 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
 This extract from Cult Sando
by Jimmy Callaway (Harper
By Design, $27.99) has been
Black sesame ice-cream with red bean reproduced with minor
GT style edits.
MAKES 2 // PREP/COOK TIME 1 HR (PLUS FREEZING) // PRESS TIME 1 HR

“These flavours are as synonymous with Asian cooking as rice and soy sauce,” says
Callaway. “Black sesame, with its earthy nuttiness, pairs beautifully with the smooth
sweetness of red bean.”

4 slices shokupan sesame seeds, stirring continuously,
150 gm (½ cup) red bean paste and toast until aromatic. While still warm,
BLACK SESAME ICE-CREAM place in a high-speed food processor
½ cup black sesame seeds with the honey. Blitz until paste is
1 tbsp pure honey completely smooth.
340 ml thickened cream 3 Place 100ml thickened cream, glucose
80 ml (1⁄3 cup) double cream and black sesame paste into a saucepan,
6 tbsp glucose and over medium-high heat bring to a
100 ml skim condensed milk simmer for 90 seconds. Set aside to
cool completely.
1 Grease and line a 20cm x 12cm loaf tin 4 Combine remaining 240ml thickened
with plastic wrap. cream, double cream and skim
2 For the black sesame ice-cream, in condensed milk with the cooled black
a frying pan over low-medium heat, add sesame mixture. Slowly whisk until soft
peaks form. Pour evenly into the lined
tin (give it a few light taps). Freeze for
6 hours.
5 To assemble, spread red bean paste
evenly across four slices of shokupan.
6 Remove ice-cream from mould and
cut in half widthways. Place on two slices
of shokupan. Top with remaining slices,
bean paste side down.
7 Wrap in plastic wrap and press for
1 hour in the freezer.
8 To serve, trim crusts and cut
lengthways. 

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 113
 tokyotokyo.jp
H_Û\bZeMhdrhMkZo^e@nb]^3`hmhdrh'hk`(^g(
 M AY

Tokyo,
Japan

p 124

Hidden gems
Discovering Kyoto’s new generation, four perfect foodie
PHOTOGRAPHY IRWIN WONG.

days in Tokyo, a chef’s tour of Hiroshima, checking into

Kimpton Shinjuku, and heading off the beaten path.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 115
 N
E
W
FASHIONED

Photography LUKE BURGESS

116 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
Temples. Tea ceremonies. Geisha. These are all reasons why Kyoto,
is celebrated as Japan’s wellspring of tradition. A new generation,
however, wants to change the story, writes MAX VEENHUYZEN.

L
ast time I checked, pizza wasn’t part of
a traditional kaiseki meal. And yet, as
dinner at Monk crescendos with elegant
wood-fired pies freighting fresh nori, the
herbal mountain plant fukinoto and other seasonal
Japanese ingredients, it feels like the most natural
thing in the world.
News that Italy’s most famous flatbread has
infiltrated Japan’s most traditional meal is
shocking enough. That this is happening in the
country’s cultural ground zero is another level
of scandalous again. But while the purists rage,
others are excited about this new direction.
“Kyoto is the best place to open up
a restaurant,” says Yoshihiro Imai, Monk’s chef-
patron. A former pizza chef in Nagano, Imai
relocated to Kyoto and opened Monk in 2015
where he serves highly seasonal, highly delicious
modern kaiseki menus. “It has culture, it’s close
to nature and locals are interested in new things.
I could see that there was a new wave being driven
by people that came here from other parts of Japan
and wanted to be part of it.”
Although Kyoto is rich in culture, history
and enlightenment – for more than a millennium,
it was the Japanese capital – the city has always
harboured a progressive bent. Kyoto bamboo
helped Thomas Edison create the world’s first
light bulb. The Kyoto Electric Railway company
operated Japan’s first streetcar. Nintendo was born
here. Tourists might flock to Kyoto for temples,
tea ceremonies and cherry blossoms, but beyond
the surface is a city that values the future as much
as it does the past.
“Kyoto is dynamic, it’s moving” says Zenbu
Tours’ Jane Lawson, a former cookbook publisher
that moved to Kyoto in 2009 and now runs small
group tours around Japan. “It’s a city of contrasts
but it’s more obvious because there’s this amazing
ancient culture and traditional buildings and
gardens. We’re seeing a real effort to level up the
experience and give visitors a deeper experience
and understanding of Kyoto.”
From maverick restaurants to contemporary
new hotels, these are some of the players helping
define the new Kyoto. ➤

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 117
 E AT

Thick slices of kingfish, heady with smoke from the

wood-fired oven. Charry knobs of sunchoke contrasted
against luscious tufts of mozzarella. A shared bowl of
carrots, blushing pink radishes and other organic Kyoto
veg – bought every morning from the hara farmers’
market – simply roasted and sharpened with salt. The
aforementioned new-school pizza. All ways in which
Yoshihiro Imai celebrates the season at Monk, his cosy
14-seat restaurant next to the Philosopher’s Path. Factor
in a star turn on Netflix’s Chef’s Table and it’s not hard
to understand why Monk is one of the old capital’s most
in-demand tables. An essential if unexpected meal for the
Kyoto-bound.
Also from the department of I-didn’t-see-that-coming is
suburban deli, Salsiccia. During the week, Naoya Suzuki
makes traditional and not-so-traditional fresh sausages (pork
snags buzzing with sansho pepper, anyone?). On Saturdays
and Sundays, he stays open for dinner and cooks the
restaurant’s namesake alongside lasagne, trippa alla Romana
and other Italian favourites while pouring vino naturale.
New-wave cafés and bakeries are also actively unifying
east and west. Instagram-friendly Ha Ra is as likable for its
cosy aesthetic as it is a tight edit of polished brunch dishes
including comforting eggplant lasagne and a meticulously
built BLT. Hefty breakfast rolls crammed with thick bacon
and a fluffy scrambled egg help explain the constant
queues at fresh-faced new bakery, . For those happy

118 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
 to travel for their daily bread, take the one-hour, two-train
journey to Otokoyama where Camphora Kitchen awaits.
In a past life, owner Rihito Maruhashi made croissants at
Tokyo’s legendary Path and worked at London’s Lyle’s and
E5 Bakehouse. Nowadays, he’s turning out sourdough,
canelés and lemon tarts for clued-up eaters.
Elsewhere, second-generation owners are proving you
can teach old restaurants new tricks. At Taiho, Toshihiro
and Satiko Watanabe have been serving high definition,
nuanced Chinese food for almost half a century. While
patriarch Toshihiro continues to hold it down in the
kitchen, son Kouki manages the family’s organic farm in
nearby Ayabe where he raises pigs and grows produce for the
mothership. (Taiho’s slow-cooked pork with mustard leaves
and black bean, plus crazy good dandan noodles, speak to
Kouki’s interests in both provenance and Sichuan cookery.)
Daughter Hiroko is a cheery presence on the floor and Clockwise from top
manages Taiho’s mighty natural wine list. Sobatsuru, left: serving sake at
a homely soba joint in the Sakyo neighbourhood, is another Sobatsuru; toasted
PHOTOGRAPHY YUKA YANAZUME. MONK: LIGHT AND SHADOW ON THE

ginko at Sobatsuru.
PHILOSOPHER’S PATH BY YOSHIHIRO IMAI IS PUBLISHED BY PHAIDON.

must. After taking over from their late parents, brothers Opposite, clockwise
Shigeto and Hideo Isada and sister Masako have bolstered from top: a dish at
Sobatsuru’s soba offering with otsumami (drinking snacks) Monk; its exterior;
its wood-fire oven.
of real finesse. Think roasted gingko nuts, slices of karasumi
(dried mullet roe) sandwiched between clouds of grilled
mochi, and tempura-fried uni. ➤

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 119
 Getting
DO there
Pro-tip: hire a bicycle. Flat, laid out in a grid and cyclist- From within Japan,
friendly – even the one-way streets have bike lanes in both Kyoto is best
accessed via bullet
directions – Kyoto is a terrific city to ride around. Bike hire train (Shinkansen).
is cheap and lets you see more of the city faster while also The journey is just
earning all-important food and drink credits. Drop into over two hours from
Tokyo or 15 minutes
Kurasu to buy coffee equipment plus a bike map detailing from Osaka.
the city’s cafés of note. The success of the recent Andy jrailpass.com
Warhol retrospective at the Kyocera Museum of Art
underscores the value of art to Kyoto (and, indeed, Japan
as a whole) while the collection at the National Museum
of Modern Art includes key Japanese and foreign pieces.
The Kyoto International Manga Museum is your chance
to go deep into this modern-day Japanese phenomenon.
Ethelvine is your best bet for tracking down hard-to-find
local and European natural wines, while the shopping
arcades on Shinkyogoku and Teramachi streets and their
surrounds cover everything from top-dollar designer
fashion to sticker shops.

Clockwise from above: Kurasu; coffee at

Kurasu; bike-friendly streets of Kyoto; Ace
Hotel Kyoto’s lobby; and suite. Opposite,
from top: Hachi Record Shop and Bar; Wife
& Husband café.

120 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

A DJ spins rare Indonesian
funk-rock while drinkers
lay waste to beer and
nigori sake. A picture that
captured the pleasures of
modern-day Kyoto.
S TAY
Located near popular Nishiki Market, 213-room Ace Hotel
Kyoto (rooms start from $479) embodies the city’s optimism
and cosmopolitan spirit. Fabrics have been designed
exclusively for the hotel by Tokyo fashion label Minä
Perhonen; handsome timber furnishings are a recurring
feature and in-room turntables plus colourful pieces from
centenarian folk artist Samiro Yunoki come standard-issue.
In classic Ace style, the communal lobby boasting textiles,
twinkling copper lights and Japan’s first Stumptown Coffee
Roasters outpost is the hotel’s hub and heart. While service
exemplifies the Japanese ethos of omotenashi – my memory
of a staff member stopping vacuuming so I could wait for
the elevator in silence one afternoon won’t be soon
forgotten – the hotel’s F&B leans into Ace’s American
heritage. Los Angeleno Wes Avila of Guerrilla Tacos fame
is behind mezzanine lounge and taco bar Piopiko, while Mr
Maurice’s Italian – a project from Philadelphian chef Marc
Vetri – deals in chicken saltimbocca, biscuity pizzas and
red-sauce hits.
DRINK
Kyoto might be synonymous with tea, but the city
takes its coffee seriously. Opened in 2005 by Ayumi
and Masahiro Kaneko, Weekenders Coffee was one
of the prefecture’s third-wave coffee pioneers. Today,
the Kanekos run their own roastery plus a charming café
in a converted machiya (traditional wooden townhouse)
complete with beautiful niwa (Japanese garden) and
machiai (waiting bench). An unexpected location behind
a parking lot adds to Weekenders’ must-do reputation.
Coffee at Wife & Husband is another unhurried
pleasure, both in the way it’s made as well
as how it’s enjoyed. In addition to relaxing in the snug,
converted house, guests can also hire picnic baskets,
chairs and tables to spend the morning picnicking at
the nearby Kamo River.
Traditionally, sake is meant to be an unobtrusive
accompaniment to food. Yoram Ofer, owner of sake
bar Yoramu, wants to detonate that idea, as proven
by his selection of bold sakes that are anything but
retiring. From outré styles bottled by tiny breweries
to Ofer’s own cellared sake experiments, Yoramu
celebrates the diversity and potential of rice, water,
yeast and koji. Otherwise, the banks of the Takase
River canal remain a bar-hopper’s paradise. Barnacled
by decades of gig posters and cigarette smoke, Jazz in
Rokudenashi is the divey, late-night jazz bar of your
whisky highball and Blue Note LP dreams. It might
be a more recent arrival, but Hachi Record Shop and
Bar is underpinned by a similar love of music. On
the night we visit, a Japanese-Balinese DJ spins rare
Indonesian funk-rock while drinkers lay waste to local
craft beer and ochoko cups of cloudy nigori sake.
It was a picture that captured the pleasures and
possibilities of modern-day Kyoto. 
 The art of…
making the
practical perfect

No other nation takes the packed lunch as seriously as Japan.

ANNA HART recalls the lunchbox that changed her life.

122 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

T
he first time I was awed by another
nation’s food was the moment I saw
Naoko’s lunchbox. I was an Irish
eight-year-old at an international school
in Singapore, and before I ate lunch with Naoko,
my new friend from Tokyo, I was happy with my
wholemeal bread sandwiches, wedged alongside
an apple inside a rectangular Friends of the Earth
lunchbox. I unwrapped my squashed sandwiches
from their foil, and Naoko deftly unclipped the lid
of her Hello Kitty lunchbox, revealing various
perfectly proportioned compartments containing
tiny immaculately presented portions of food:
steamed rice, tuna, cooked vegetables, purple and
yellow pickles. A matching pair of pink chopsticks
slotted neatly into the lid of the box. I’d never seen
such state-of-the-art lunchbox technology. I’d never
seen a lunchbox aspire to such soaring aesthetic
heights of pink cuteness. I’d also never seen such
meticulous compartmentalisation, such nutritional
neatness, the box deftly
wrangling food into order.
Packed lunches, in my world,
I decided
were always a bit of a mess. lunchboxes
A tasty, eagerly anticipated the finest in the
mess, but a mess, all the same. world, the sort that
I decided Japanese lunchboxes
were the finest in the world, would
the sort of highly functional to astronauts.
lunchboxes that would be issued
to astronauts on space missions.
My parents humoured me and bought me
a Japanese lunchbox of my own, which my peanut
butter sandwiches didn’t entirely fit into. But this
was my first crush on another culture, and they were
sweet to encourage me.
It would be years before I visited Japan, but my
interest in its culture grew far beyond my lunchbox,
and led me to love Kurosawa and Studio Ghibli
movies, novels by Haruki Murakami and Hiromi
Kawakami and too many street fashion blogs and
Instagram accounts to mention. As a student in
Glasgow, the first ever dinner party I hosted was a
sushi feast, mainly because I felt I could always rely
on Japanese cooking to bring order to chaos. My
ILLUSTRATION GETTY IMAGES.
student flat might have been a mess, but the dining
Anna is a travel table was a serene oasis of simple, nutritious, pretty
and lifestyle sushi. This is all because of Naoko’s lunchbox.
journalist, and When I was first dazzled by that Hello Kitty
author of the
container, of course I didn’t realise that bento boxes
travel memoir
Departures. had been an integral part of Japanese culture since
@annadothart the 12th century. Naoko’s school lunch was the
The art of travel
result of centuries of careful refinement; during
the Edo period, from 1600, bento boxes became
an art form, and the word “bento” (derived from
“convenience”) was attached to the container itself,
some crafted in lacquered wood, others in utilitarian
shiny tin. Japanese people have been working on
their lunchbox game for centuries, and against
bento culture, my sandwiches didn’t stand a chance.
When I finally visited Kyoto and Osaka, I was
tickled to discover the koraku bento, an array of
onigiri and makizushi intended to be shared among
a few diners. This challenged me, as I’ve always
associated bento with fierce individualism, fenced-in
food that is mine, all mine. Bento offered a blessed
respite from the runaway popularity of sharing
plates, which sometimes triggers a Neanderthal
panic and gluttony in me. But it was a good lesson
to be urged to share a bento, for once.
People far, far cleverer than me have delved into
bento culture, examining what it says about the
nation as a whole. The critic
Roland Barthes was struck by
Japanese the lack of a “centrepiece” in
were bento, compared to Western
cuisines where meat tends to
be the star of the show. Barthes
argued that the contents of a
be issued bento box all work together in
harmony, exalting each other.
The Japanese writer O-Young
Lee, meanwhile, used bento as a metaphor to deride
the reductionism he saw in Japanese culture, where
everything has to be compartmentalised and
minimised within a fixed structure. All I know is
that I still consider Japanese lunchboxes to be the
best lunchboxes in the world, even when pitched
against tiffin tins in Indonesia.
And in times of flux, chaos or confusion,
I still cling to Japanese food like a life raft. Sushi is
my go-to airport meal, appropriate for breakfast
(airports exist outside timezones) or at 3am, reliably
fresh, nourishing and uncomplicated. Ramen is
what comforts me, what I reach for when I’m
hungover, or unwell, or going through some sort
of emotional upheaval.
When I feel like I can’t look after myself, I can
trust a bento box to do so; all the right decisions
have been made for me, and I am presented with
an assortment of delicious yet portion-controlled
and nutritionally balanced treats. Life is always
better after lunch, and perhaps this is why the
Japanese felt lunch was worth perfecting. 
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 123
 A
TASTE
OF

TOKYO
PAUL EWART eats and drinks his way
around Japan’s largest city in four days.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
 Left: scallops grilled
over coals on the
streets of Kōenji.
Opposite: casual
dining on Kōenji’s
“Yakitori street”.

YOKOCHO DINING

“My favourite of all Tokyo’s yokocho

alleys is Yurakucho Sanchoku
Inshokugai,” says Chantel Furbert,
a local expert with Inside Japan Tours.
Close to the Ginza district, this alley is
a collection of atmospheric hole-in-the-
wall restaurants, with each specialising
in a different regional cuisine from
across Japan, which means you can
sample dishes from Kyoto, Osaka,
Kyushu and even Okinawa, as you
sip on a cold beer or sake and watch
the walls rattle as the bullet trains
whizz overhead.
Our first stop is a tiny venue with
D A Y O N E street seating where we taste
“atsuage”, a thick slice of fried tofu,
I’m in K enji – the city’s youth subcultural centre. A one-time punk garnished with green onions, ginger
neighbourhood, now home to vinyl shops and hipster-filled coffee shops. and dried bonito fish flakes. “It’s a
Here, you can jostle at crowded counters as you work your way through classic of the Kanto region that
Japanese snack food staples. surrounds Tokyo,” she explains.
It’s while ambling in the bustling neighbourhood that the smell of Moving on we travel to Yanbaru
burning charcoal combined with roasting meat hits me – an aroma that Diner for a taste of the tropical islands
can only mean one thing: yakitori. of Okinawa, including the American-
I allow my nose to lead and soon find myself on K enji’s “Yakitori fusion favourite “taco rice”. Before
street”, on the west side of K enji Station. heading on to Osaka. “For a taste of
This is where I watch as an attentive chef continuously rotates Osaka, I love the tako-sembei,” she
negima skewers over a charcoal grill, while basting them in a sweet soy explains as we jostle for space at a
sauce and mirin mix. crowded bar. “It’s a takoyaki
Also, on K enji “Yakitori street” a queue of hungry-looking sandwiched in a thin, octopus-shrimp-
salarymen (all in their navy suit uniforms) are seated alongside a vendor flavoured rice cracker. Drizzled with lots
patiently waiting for their takoyaki. of mayo and takoyaki sauce.”
Joining the queue, I’m soon served a little wooden boat of the tasty Asking for tips on what to drink
octopus and batter morsels, brushed with a sweet sauce, drizzled with while yokocho-hopping, Furbert is quick
Kewpie mayo and topped with seaweed and freshly shaved bonito flakes. to reply: “Hoppy! It’s a sparkling
At the other end of Tokyo’s culinary scale is kaiseki – considered beer-like drink that can be enjoyed
Japan’s version of haute cuisine. straight, or mixed with shōchū, the local
Seated in a private dining room, in the unnamed basement spirit of choice in many yokocho.”
PHOTOGRAPHY IRWIN WONG.

restaurant at the Hoshinoya Tokyo hotel, I am treated to a fish-focused Tightly packed with a maximum
menu by chef Noriyuki Hamada (the youngest chef to win Japan’s capacity of four to 10 people in most
Bocuse d’Or International Gastronomic competition). Over three hours yokocho, be prepared to get cosy with
and multiple courses, French techniques are combined with Japanese your bar neighbours – chances are, you
seasonal produce in a memorable meal that is almost too pretty to eat. won’t end the night drinking alone! ➤

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 125
D A Y T W O
Rising early, I head to the original “outer market” of Tsukiji,
the source of much of Japan’s premium fish.
While the crowds queue up around the block before dawn for
a seating at Sushi Dai, a more local option is the compact, nine-seater
Tsukiji Koromo Sushi on the outer rim of the market. Here, nigiri
takes centre stage as the crowd either go à la carte or let the chef
take control.
My day-long sushi exploration continues with an omakase dinner
at Sushi Wakon where two-Michelin-starred chef Rei Masuda serves
traditional “Edomae” sushi – a style that dates back to the 1820s.
Pulling up a chair at the coveted counter – where only four other
guests join my partner and I – we watch in awe as a chef deftly slices
ruby-red bluefin tuna with a marble-hilted knife (one that bears
a resemblance to a samurai sword) and hand grates wasabi, all the
while dealing with a barrage of our collective questions.
As appetisers, including horsehair crab with caviar, appear in
front of me, I learn it takes a decade to become a sushi master.
Time well spent, as this is the best sashimi I’ve ever tasted.

D A Y T H R E E
In Yanaka, Nezu and Sendagi (collectively known as Yanesen) narrow winding
streets are peppered with senbei (rice crackers) and sake shops.
The area is also a hub for creative young Japanese, including third wave coffee
pioneers. One of these is helmed by a Japanese husband-and-wife duo who have
brought their Melbourne concept café to the streets of Yanaka. At Cibi you can
expect a killer flat white, alongside the best avo on toast you’ll find in town.
At the main shopping street, Yanaka Ginza, I spy a vendor selling tempura,
which reminds me this fried favourite is still unchecked on my Tokyo eating list.
First introduced to Japan in the 16th century, there are now an estimated
4000 tempura eateries in Tokyo alone. I take my cue from a local friend and take
a 20-minute train ride to Taito to visit Sansada, reported to be the oldest tempura
PHOTOGRAPHY BENITO MARTIN & IRWIN WONG.

restaurant in Japan. Sansada has been operating for 180 years and still maintains
its Edo-era origins, using sesame oil for frying.
Opting for a seasonal tempura platter of white fish, rape blossoms and tiger
prawns and squid, I season with salt and a dipping sauce of tentsuyu with grated
daikon radish.
Come dinnertime, I’m feeling brave enough to tackle the fearsome fugu.
Fugu, or puffer fish, can be deadly if served incorrectly thanks to a neurotoxin
in the liver (chefs must obtain a licence to serve fugu, proving their skill).
I’m in safe hands at the Yamadaya’s Tokyo outlet, a two-Michelin-starred
restaurant serving paper-thin slices of blowfish sashimi – fugu in its purest form.
 Clockwise from right: kinmedai
osso bucco at The Jade Room;
and its dining room. Opposite,
clockwise from bottom: Cibi;
produce at the “outer market”
of Tsukiji; and one of its vendors.
E AT
Tsukiji Koromo Sush
koromosushi.therestaurant.jp
Sushi Wakon sushiwakon-tokyo.com
Sansada tempura-sansada.co.jp
Yamadaya usukifugu-yamadaya.jp
Dashinsoan dashinsoan.jp
The Jade Room
thejaderoomgardenterrace.com
Yanbaru Diner yanbarudiner.com
S TAY
Hoshinoya Tokyo Tokyo’s first luxury
ryokan, Hoshinoya Tokyo is the only
hotel in central Tokyo with access to
a natural hot spring. hoshinoya.com
The Peninsula A plush five-star
property with a 20-metre pool, jacuzzi
and terrace that takes in vistas across
the gardens of the Imperial Palace.
peninsula.com
GUTTER CREDIT
D A Y F O U R
Feeling the need to make my next big meal a nourishing one,
soba noodles, revered for health-giving properties, come next.
The soba experience at Dashinsoan in Shimokitazawa takes
place in a traditional house fronted by a small Japanese garden.
Choose from a range of staples and seasonal soba, served
both hot and cold, but if you want to go as unadulterated as
possible, opt for zaru and seiro soba, which are served cold
with a dipping sauce.
I dunk them in a dipping sauce, raise them to my mouth
with chopsticks and savour them with the ultimate sign of
appreciation, a long and satisfied slurp.
For my final meal in Tokyo, I look to the stars. The city is the
world’s Michelin-starred capital with more than 260 restaurants
holding the culinary accolade. One of the newest is The Jade
Room, the first Asian restaurant by British celebrity chef, Tom
Aikens – who currently holds a Michelin star for his London
eatery, Muse. At The Jade room, the Japanese-meets-Western
menu has already won over local tastemakers.
Working my way through the signature seven-course tasting
menu, Aiken’s culinary prowess takes the form of bright,
sumptuous dishes, including the wood-roasted celeriac carpaccio
with truffle shavings, the Aomori duck, smoked beetroot
and red cabbage, and a surprising hit of onion custard, bread
miso, grains and Hokkaido cheese, paired with Japanese wines
(yes, wines).
Delicious dining aside, the adjoining alfresco terrace is worth
the booking alone for its stellar skyline, making it the perfect spot
to reflect on four days that have been well spent. 
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 127
 H
onolulu is fortunate enough to be famous for more than just
one bloody day; the attack on Pearl Harbor on December 7,
1941. But Hiroshima is a city that will always be synonymous
with one devastating date.
It is impossible to visit this bustling, modern city – the eleventh largest
in Japan, with a population of 1.1 million – without considering its painful
place in history, as the location of the most shocking, truly unprecedented
crime against humanity, the dropping of an atomic bomb on a civilian
population, an attack that killed as many as 100,000 people on August 6,
1945, with at least another 80,000 dying more slowly by the end of that year,
from burns, injuries and radiation poisoning. ➤

128 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
 Exploring

STEPHEN CORBY goes from devastation to delight with chef Ben Shewry.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 129

Clockwise from above: the
quiet streets of Miyajima; a chef
prepares okonomiyaki; Attica
chef Ben Shewry; a ferry ride
to Miyajima. PREVIOUS PAGES
Left: Hiroshima Castle. Right:
a wild deer wanders in front of
the giant torii gate at Miyajima.
130 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
It also completely flattened, or torched, 70 per cent
of all the buildings in Hiroshima, as its vast fireball burned
to almost 4000 degrees Celsius. Pretty much everything
you see in the city, then, is much younger than the rest
of Japan. Even the beautiful Hiroshima Castle, originally
built in the 1590s, was painstakingly rebuilt to look like
its former glory, back in the 1950s.
Among the many incredible things you are reminded
of in the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum – a place
you really must visit and one dedicated, most obviously,
to ridding the modern world of nuclear weapons – is that
the unfeasible, inhuman toll of the atomic bomb was not
enough to scare the Japanese into ending the war.
Three days later, the US dropped another fire storm of
fission on Nagasaki but it took another six days after that
for Emperor Hirohito to announce Japan’s surrender.
I ask our guide, Nobu, whose father was an atomic bomb
survivor, if the Japanese people were angry about that, or
more so with the US, but she has no fury to offer. “There is
no anger, we just want to learn the lessons of history, and for
this never to happen again.”
Hiroshima’s approach to remembering is right there
in the name of its moving museum – other countries would
call it a War Memorial, but theirs is one of Peace.
Nobu is keen to change the subject to another the locals
are passionate about, food, and in particular the local
specialty that was a surprising side effect of the bombing –
Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki.
“After the war, as people were rebuilding, there wasn’t
much food, or much to cook on, so this way of putting
whatever they could find together and making it as
a pancake was born – ‘okonomi’ means ‘whatever you
want’ and ‘yaki’ means ‘grilled’,” she explains.
You could think of it as a kind of Japanese bubble and
squeak, a suggestion that amuses Nobu, who reveals that
local English speakers also call it “economy-yaki”.
The dish is everywhere in the city – indeed our travelling
companion, Attica chef-owner Ben Shewry, manages to find
one five-floor-high food court selling almost nothing else.
The multi-layered dish of noodles, egg, pork (or
calamari), thick brown and luscious Peking-duck-like
okonomiyaki sauce with a vast choice of toppings, is
generally served on a hot plate so you can keep it warm
while slicing and dicing it. For the ultimate immersion,
though, we visit the Otafuku’s Okosta Okonomiyaki
Experience at Hiroshima Station, which promises
“Borderless Happiness”. “After the war, there wasn’t
Shewry looks delighted as we are dressed in gaudy
orange aprons and chef’s hats and gather around a vast grill much food, or much to
plate to be taken through the various, and necessarily cook on, so this way of
dexterous steps of making our own okonomiyaki. putting whatever they
Definitely more of a generous soul than a show-off,
Shewry decides to make two at once so that our could find together as
photographer doesn’t miss out on lunch, and makes it a pancake was born.”
look both easy and tidy (his obsession with keeping his
workspace clean is obvious, as is his ability to touch
hot things without seeming to feel any pain), while certain
journalists who shall remain nameless turn their first
pancake attempts into something chapati-like.
I’m happy to report that my okonomiyaki tasted better
than its ragged looks, as it combined a multi-storey
combination of flavours into something rich and filling. ➤

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 131
Slug
Clockwise from above: a Mazda
CX60 at the Mazda Hofu plant;
a chef prepares sushi; sushi at
Mazda plant. Opposite, from
top: Ben Shewry behind the
wheel; dinner at Mitakiso.
132 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
Clearly taken by getting his hands dirty, if only very
briefly, Shewry is keen to further explore the single-minded
devotion to perfection of Japanese chefs. As he points out,
it’s far less common to find a restaurant serving a full menu
of native dishes in Hiroshima, where small – and I mean
quite often standing room only, with elbows tight to your
sides – venues specialise in just one thing.
“I love Japanese food and what I admire about Japanese
cooks is their ability to focus on one thing and do it just
so incredibly well,” Shewry enthuses as we wander along
streets packed on either side with windows proferring plastic
versions of their food offerings.
“In western society, we don’t really have that laser-like
focus to submit completely to being excellent at just one
thing, whether it be cooking rice, sushi, okonomiyaki, just
dedicating your life to be elite at that one thing.
“So you can go to a restaurant that just does yakitori, or
just sushi, and you’ll know they’ve been working to perfect
that dish. Another thing you notice is that they respect their
ingredients immensely.”
Eventually we settle on Sushi-Rindo, a restaurant slightly
smaller than a mini-van and with just six seats at the bar,
where Shewry somehow manages to talk the non-English-
speaking chef and owner, Mr Ito (who explains through our
interpreter that he had to do a three-year apprenticeship
before he was allowed to make sushi) into letting us make
our own dinner.
Rolling the rice ball in your fingers, like a spin bowler, is
even harder than it looks and can lead to dropping some on
the floor, unless you’re a chef and just naturally good at that
kind of thing.
The next day we head to stand inside a postcard on
Hiroshima’s Miyajima island, a day trip that every visitor
must take to let their eyes drink in “one of the top three
iconic scenic spots in Japan” as you’re told on the ferry.
Brushed with forest and adorned with temples and
very tame wild deer, the island’s torii gate draws all eyes
and cameras, particularly when the tide is in and it seems
to float, part of the ocean itself and truly majestic. Miyajima
is also famous for its oysters, but you may have to queue to
get the most popular ones. It’s an apt preamble to our
kaiseki dinner at top-notch restaurant, Mitakiso, where
seafood is the star.
Our final stop is a slightly unusual one, also linked to
the city’s bombing. Jujiro Matsuda, the founder of Mazda,
was born on August 6 and had just driven away after having
a haircut for his 70th birthday when the bomb dropped,
obliterating the barber shop and hurling him from his car.
 Getting
there
The easiest way to
travel to Hiroshima is
by high-speed bullet
train. The journey is
approximately four
hours from Tokyo or
one hour and 40
minutes from Kyoto.

He survived, as did most of his factory – it was protected

by a mountain – and just four months after his city was
flattened, Mazda production was back up and running.
Today, one in 10 Hiroshima residents work in the car
industry, and it’s very much a one-brand town. Shewry was
keen to visit the Mazda Museum, which is filled with
vehicles that make you realise how old you are, because you
may have learned to drive in a model that’s now considered
worthy of preservation.
The museum saves its best surprise until last, however,
when you are invited to visit and walk above the company’s
final assembly line – a true taste of local life. Far from
the robot-filled factory you’re expecting, what is truly
mesmerising to watch are all the humans at work in
a show of “mass craftmanship”.
We stare for quite some time at one worker as he leaps
from one kind of car to another performing different
bolt-tightening, part-attaching tasks, all with incredible
speed and concentration.
Whenever you visit Japan it’s impossible not to marvel
at their dedication to task, whether it’s cooking, creating
art or producing incredibly complex modern cars.
They’re also a calmly optimistic people, who really
hope that one day the rest of the world will work out how
to run a train system that’s fast, clean and always on time. Whenever you visit Japan
In front of the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum it’s impossible not to
there is a Flame of Peace, cupped by a sculpture of two marvel at their dedication
hands, that’s been burning since 1964. It will only be
extinguished when the rest of the world, like Japan, to task, whether it’s
reaches the point of having no nuclear weapons. It’s cooking or creating art.”
still burning right now. 

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 133
 CHECKING IN

Kimpton Shinjuku, Tokyo

We take the guesswork out of travel with our tips on where
to stay, eat, drink and play. This month, GT heads to Tokyo.

Shinjuku,
To k y o

Quick
look

Where
3 Chome-4-7,
Nishishinjuku,
Famous for its bright lights, buzzing bars and neon-lit skyscrapers, Shinjuku is one of Tokyo’s most Shinjuku City, Tokyo
vibrant areas to visit. But Kimpton Shinjuku manages to create an oasis of calm for guests, whisking Facilities
them high above the action and into a world of clean, modern serenity. Each of the hotel’s 151 rooms is Prices start from
complete with yoga mats and rain showers and most rooms include deep soaking baths. Inspired by $695 per night.
New York’s art and fashion scene, you’ll find all manner of quirky, colourful touches throughout the hotel’s Gym Yes
common areas – including an ever-changing roster of art installations and retail pop-ups. In the lobby, Restaurant Yes
S T A Y

The Jones Cafe and Bar keeps guests hydrated throughout the day, offering complimentary takeaway Bar Yes
coffee in the morning and complimentary wine during the daily social hour, a prime opportunity to meet Free WiFi Yes
fellow guests, including those of the four-legged variety thanks to the hotel’s popular pet-friendly policy.
kimptonshinjuku.com

134 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
 Checking in

The colourful chaos of Shibuya Crossing has become a symbol of

Tokyo but it’s far from the only side to this multi-dimensional city.
A morning walk through Yoyogi Park to Meiji Jingu – a Shinto
shrine dedicated to the Emperor Meiji and his wife Empress

V I S I T
Shōken – is a welcome tonic to the frenzy of surrounding Shibuya
City. Set in 70-hectares of parkland, you’ll find locals and tourists
alike soaking in the silent serenity of the shrine, as well as
admiring the surrounding Meiji Memorial Picture Gallery,
which features a collection of 80 large-scale murals.

Clockwise from above: Sake barrels at the entrance

to Meiji Jingu Shrine; Omoide Yokochō, a maze of
food stalls near Kimpton Shinjuku at night; the
ultimate “fashion plate” at Gucci Osteria. Opposite:
inside District brasserie at Kimpton Shinjuku.

E X P E R I E N C E
If you don’t attempt karaoke in Tokyo, did you even visit the Japanese
capital? There are dozens of ways to take part in Japan’s favourite
pastime in this city – from solo booths to on-stage performances
backed by a live band. You’ll find plenty of private rooms in and around
WIORDS JOANNA HUNKIN. PHOTOGRAPHY YUBI RENTAL (KIMPTON SHINJUKU). GETTY IMAGES.

Shinjuku and Shibuya but you’ll need to head to Ginza for the solid-gold
entertainment that Karat provides. Whether you’re brave enough to take
the stage or not, a visit here will convert even the most reluctant observer
into a super fan, as singers step into the spotlight to unleash their inner
rock star with total abandon. Audience participation is compulsory,
whether you speak Japanese or not, and joyful hilarity is guaranteed.

Brunch Dinner Drinks

In the tradition of Manhattan’s
classic hotels, the Kimpton’s
District brasserie offers sleek
all-day dining, blending western
favourites with Japanese specials,
including teppan grilled scallops,
Murakami sausage and sakura
(cherry blossom) cheesecake.
Otherwise, you can grab something
E A T
Ginza’s Gucci Osteria was one of
21 new entries to Tokyo’s Michelin
Guide in 2022, earning its first
Michelin star. The Massimo
Bottura-led collab is easily one
of the most stylish dining
experiences around, while head
chef Antonio Iacoviello combines
his Italian heritage with his love of
Just next door at the Park Hyatt,
you can recreate your own Lost in
Translation moment at New York
Bar, where sweeping views of the
city are served up alongside
classic cocktails and live jazz.
Celebrity spotting is possible but
not guaranteed. Alternatively,
you’ll find Prohibition-era cocktails

quick from The Jones, where the Japan to create unique and playful at the Kimpton’s own penthouse
signature blend cold brew draws dishes, such as “The Parmigiana bar, 86, located on the 17th floor,
coffee lovers from across the city. that wants to be a Ramen”. complete with an alfresco terrace.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 135
 After Tokyo and Osaka, these lesser-known destinations will
lead your Japanese odyssey into unexplored territory.

Road less travelled

136 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
 FUKUOKA
THE MULTICULTURALIST
Not too big, not too small, Fukuoka is the most populous city on Kyushu Island and the
gateway to southern Japan. Located closer to Seoul than it is to Tokyo, and also counting
Shanghai and Taipei as near-flung neighbours, the city is no stranger to cultural cross-pollination.
Fukuoka’s population of 1.5 million people includes a healthy number of students, giving rise
to a cosmopolitan destination with plenty to offer hungry and thirsty travellers.

STOP IN
Coffee Hanasaka. A tiny coffee shop on the
fifth floor of a cookie-cutter building in the
trendy Daimyo neighbourhood, this is the kind
of place that could only exist in Japan. Vintage
movie and art posters beautify the timber-clad
space; the soundtrack is record-based; coffees
are meticulously and carefully made and the
house-baked cheesecake is finished with salt
for maximum savour. An absolute pleasure.
Closer to ground level, Ecru serves excellent
coffee by day before slowly morphing into
a natural wine bar after dark.
SEE
Fukuoka Art Museum. Diversity is a key tenet
of this institution. Part of serene Japanese
garden Ohori Park, the museum is home
to a dynamic collection of modern and
contemporary pieces from Japanese, Asian
and international artists. Come to admire
works from Salvador Dalí, Andy Warhol and
Joan Miró while discovering lesser-known An artwork at
names such as Japanese avant-garde photo Fukuoka Art Museum.
Opposite: blooming
collagist, Toshiko Okanoue and her partner, cosmos in Ochi
surrealist painter Kazutomo Fujino. town, Kochi.

Part of serene Japanese garden

Ohori Park, the museum is home
to a dynamic collection.
WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHY MAX VEENHUYZEN.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 137
 EAT
Warayaki Mikan. Diners flock to this izakaya
near Naka River to watch smiley chef Takurou
Sueyasu play with fire. Beyond its signature
straw-grilled (wara means straw, yaki means
grilled) fish, this boisterous hotspot knocks
them over with artisan sake, seasonal seafood
and thick slabs of house-made mentaiko
– Fukuoka’s famous salted pollock roe.
DRINK
Tasogare. Half the fun of drinking here is
finding this bijou natural wine bar hidden
inside an apartment block. (Hint: when you
get to the Yamazaki Daily convenience store,
head into the lobby around the corner, take
the steps up to the first floor and walk towards
the end of the green corridor). The other half
is owner Nagisa Teshima’s warm welcome and
her thoughtful edit of organically farmed wines
from Japanese vignerons, plus the European
cuvees that inspired them.
QUEUE FOR
Mendo Hanamokoshi. Fukuoka might be
synonymous with tonkotsu, but the city’s
ramen game goes beyond gutsy pork bone
soups. Here regulars patiently queue for their
chance to admire Norihiro Hirohata’s strong
DIY ethos. The house special is the noko
torisoba: a mass of springy handmade noodles
and shockingly tender chicken char siu in
a thick, shampoo-like broth. It’s limited to
around 20 serves a day and fans know to
begin lining up ahead of the shop’s 11.45am
opening to make sure they score a bowl.
SIDE TRIP
Itoshima. An easy one-hour drive from
Fukuoka City, this seaside town is an ideal day
trip. Among the area’s edible attractions: the
cutesy bakery, Domu no Mori (get the fried
curry bread); pots of salted custard served
with ocean vistas at seaside salt factory,
Shinzaburo Shoten; and emerging sake
producer, Shiraito. On the way home, drop in
at Ito Sai Sai, a local farmers’ market carrying
soft cream (the Japanese word for soft-serve
ice-cream), local seafood and rice.
138 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
Above: chef Takurou
Sueyasu at Warayaki
Mikan. Right: Cape
Ashizuri, Kochi.
KO C H I
LA ISLA BONITA
When Japan’s transportation network extended to Shikoku Island,
just 35 years ago, the “formality” memo presumably missed the train
to Kochi. Located along the far-eastern, coastal fringe of the island’s
treacherous mountain spine, this relaxed prefecture languishes in
a subtropical microculture, perfumed with yuzu blossom, sea spray
and bonito barbecue.
LOCAL HERO
Hatayama Tosa Jiro. Cross-legged on the tatami, farmer-chef Seiichi
Komatsu silently wields his chopsticks over our binchotan-fuelled hibachi
with the focus of a monk gently relocating a mosquito. Japan’s Jidori
(humanely raised local chicken) story speaks of legendary flavour, but
consuming Kochi’s rare-breed Tosa Jiro is deeply visceral. Savour
buttery, raw liver as each element of pristine fowl, from cockscomb and
sperm-sac to plump breast slivers are precision-grilled for tenderness.
A repeat sequence, taken further, encourages extended mastication
– essential in noting the altering umami. Essence of Tosa Jiro bones and
marigold-coloured yolks grace an ethereal Oyakodon (mother-and-child
rice bowl), perfectly concluding the sensory meditation.
VISIT
Kure Taishomachi market. Everyday, fishmonger Tanaka-san hauls his
morning catch onto the lunch menu in rustic Kure Taishomachi market.
Katsuo (bonito) sashimi is accompanied by raw garlic slices, wasabi and
shiso and Katsuo-no-tataki, seared over open-flame, is seasoned with
sundried seasalt and spritzed with yuzu. This soulful, life-affirming
fish food industry almost singlehandedly sustains the township.
No katsuobushi (smoked, dried and fermented bonito), no dashi.
 Kochi languishes in a subtropical
microculture, perfumed with yuzu blossom,
sea spray and bonito barbecue.

SIDE TRIP PERUSE

Umaji village. Less than 2 hours’ drive along Marche Yusuhara. Architect Kengo Kuma’s
cedar-lined Yuzu Road from Kochi city, the intimate relationship with one-time logging
enchanting village of Umaji is an alpine village Yusuhara, culminated in six brilliantly
community charged with nurturing the cream contemporary, yet appropriately woodsy,
of Japan’s yuzu crop. The most famous of community facilities. Most impressive is the
Kochi’s 60-plus citrus varieties include elegant library, an inviting forest of timber cross beams
Sudachi (lime), Buntan (pomelo variety), and nooks. Or you can stay overnight in his
sweet-sour Konatsu and brightly acidic remarkable, thatch-walled Marche Yusuhara
Naoshichi. Michi-no-eki (road-stations) and – a food hall – which offers comfortable
farmstands en route promise ambrosial accommodation, perched above a glorious
sustenance such as yuzu-honey aisukurin food market.
(sherbet) and vibrantly hued Inaka-zushi
(countryside sushi prepared with yuzu juice DO
and exquisitely preserved vegetables) while Sunday strolling. Kochi city thrives on
souvenir-worthy condiments include yuzu connection. Its 300-year-old Sunday Market,
kosho (chilli paste) and ponzu. a charming open-air promenade showcasing
culinary spoils alongside antique tableware
DRINK and handicrafts, is a favoured destination for
55th Avenue. Kochi City proudly exhibits meeting friends over molten imoten (sweet
a robust drinking culture that locals usually potato fritters). That’s the Kochi way.
pair with food and friends. Hirome Market’s
covered food stall maze, atmospheric 55th
Avenue (gojuugoban gai) izakaya or open-air
yatai (food carts) are key destinations for
relaxed evening gatherings. Annually in
March, week-long festival Tosa no Okyaku
celebrates a tipsy deity with seasonal sawachi
(oversized share-plates of abundance),
famously dry, full-bodied nihonshu (sake)
selected from the prefecture’s 18 acclaimed
breweries and, inevitably, dancing.
The more the merrier.
WORDS JANE LAWSON. PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 139
 KINOSAKI
THE SOAK STAR
With its lush mountain valley backdrop and willow tree-lined river, Kinosaki Onsen is the stuff
of storybook fantasy. Still under the radar for foreigners, this tiny town – only 2.5 hours from
Kyoto and Osaka – has lured Japanese wellness-seekers for more than 1300 years. This is
thanks to Kinosaki’s collection of renowned “onsen”, a blanket term for both hot springs
and the various bathing facilities that utilise them. Beyond healing hot springs, expect
to find fine dining and historical check-ins.

SOAK
Kinosaki’s seven onsen. The quintessential
Kinosaki activity is onsen-hopping. First
discovered by a Buddhist priest in 720 AD,
the ancient waters of Kinosaki Onsen were
put on the map after a former Emperor hailed
their healing abilities. Now, there’s a public
onsen for every day of the week — and that’s
in addition to private baths within the many
ryokans (traditional Japanese inns). Each
onsen bath has purported health benefits,
and each has a different mood to soak up.
STAY
Kobayashiya. For travellers searching for
SAMPLE
Snow crab. Every region in Japan has its own
local gourmet specialties, and Kinosaki Onsen’s
pride is the matsuba-gani, or snow crab.
A local delicacy caught in the waters just north
of Kinosaki, the crab – only available during
winter – is said to be some of the country’s
very best. Many of Kinosaki’s top ryokans will
have it on the menu during this time, including
the gorgeous Nishimuraya Shogetsutei.
EAT
Sanpou Nishimuraya Honten. Kinosaki’s
newest dining experience is a true
paddock-to-plate journey. Focused on

a cultural immersion that extends to their
accommodation, then a stay in a ryokan is
essential. And the most historic in Kinosaki is
Kobayashiya. Dating back 300-plus years,
Kobayashiya is fresh from its first major
renovation in more than 100 years, the
property has re-opened its doors with sleek
new private hot spring baths, a cosy library, an
exclusive penthouse suite that comes with its
own “tea room”, and an in-house restaurant
focusing on kyodo ryori (local cuisine). And
like any local ryokan, overnight guests are
granted access all seven onsen for free.
Cherry blossoms at Kinosaki
Onsen. Above: Sanpou
Nishimuraya Honten.
Opposite, from top: dining at
Kai Sengokuhara; Mount Fuji
views from Shizuoka.
WORDS PAUL EWART. PHOTOGRAPHY MASATOSHI MORI (KAI HAKONE) & GETTY IMAGES.
“iriori” cooking (a traditional sunken fire-pit
surrounded by stone), Sanpou Nishimuraya
Honten is committed to keeping this style of
cooking alive. Chefs cook in the open hearth
“kitchen” while diners are seated around it
to take in the theatre in all its ancient glory.
SIDE TRIP
Hachigoro Toshima Wetlands and Izushi.
Beaches, wildlife and castles can be found
nearby. Cycle along the Maruyama River and
you’ll hit the Toshima Wetlands, where you can
spot the Oriental White Stork, which is being
repopulated in the area through a breeding
program. Further afield (a 30-minute drive
away) is the castle town of Izushi. Another
historical hotspot, here you can visit the
region’s oldest working kabuki theatre, sake
cellars, pottery producers, and sample local
specialty “sara” soba noodles, for lunch.

140 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
H A KO N E A N D S H I Z UO KA
T H E NAT U R A L B E AU T Y
Lying in the shadows of Mount Fuji and a mere 90 minutes from bustling Tokyo, the
regions of Hakone and Shizuoka (both in the Kanagawa prefecture) offer a shift in pace
from the frenetic city. With a rich heritage, perfect produce, and natural attractions, the
area has long been a traditional honeymoon destination for Tokyoites.
SEE
Mount Fuji. Given their location in the
Fuji-Hakone-Izu national park, both Hakone
and Shizuoka offer ample vantage points
from which to view this iconic snow-capped
mountain. Shizuoka’s Fuji Speedway Hotel,
which offers Mount Fuji glimpses from half
of its 120 rooms, is well located for those
seeking a room with a view. The hotel is also
a vantage point for the UNESCO-recognised
Shiraito Falls, one of the most beautiful falls
in the country.
Getting
there
Japan’s largest
airline, All Nippon
Airways (ANA),
currently offers daily
flights departing
from Sydney to
Tokyo with ANA’s
Perth-Tokyo services
set to return later in
the year. ana.co.jp
To get around, arm
yourself with a Japan
Rail Pass (or JR
pass). Klook offers
seven- to 21-day JR
passes that can be
pre-purchased
before you travel.
klook.com
STAY
Kai Hakone and Kai Sengokuhara.
One of the most authentic ryokan experiences
can be found at Kai Hakone, where guests are
greeted with traditional tatami mats and
supplied kimono. A stay here is a direct line
to the days when ryokan were built to
accommodate nomadic samurai. For a more
updated ryokan experience, Kai Sengokuhara
pairs old-world charm with contemporary art.
SIP
Amasake Chaya. Located on the ancient
Tokaido trade route between Tokyo and
Nagoya, Hakone’s 400-year-old Amasake
Chaya has been reviving weary travellers for
centuries with its amasake, a sweet rice drink.
Currently run by the 13th generation of the
Yamamoto family (with the 14th generation
on the way) this unique structure with its
original thatched roof, pressed earth floor and
open cooking fire-pit, offers visitors a true
glimpse into ancient rural Japan.
VISIT
Shizuoka. This is the birthplace of the
cultivation of one of the country’s most famous
exports, wasabi. See (and taste) the local
delicacies on a gourmet cycle tour with Crank
tours who pair foodie experiences with history
and stellar scenery, all from two wheels.
INDULGE
Arai Ryokan. There’s more soaking to be had
in Hakone and Shizuoka, which boast the
highest concentration of hot springs anywhere
in the country. Shuzenji, on the Izu peninsula,
is the area’s the oldest onsen town, dating
back to the 1870s. Here, Arai Ryokan is
a highlight; with 31 traditional guest rooms
and bathing facilities located across the
property’s 10,000 square metres. 
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 141
 A G o ur m e t Tr av e lle r p r o m o t i o n

Gourmet shopping
They’re the flavours of the month, so put these items at the top of your wish list.

1 2 3

RSL Art Union Your passport to a world of
opportunity awaits in Draw 405. There’s a
$6.6 million, five-level apartment complex
to be won, as well as $500,000 in gold to
spend or save for the future as you see fit.
rslartunion.com.au/prizes/draw405
Oceania Cruises Enjoy a 12-day voyage
aboard Oceania Cruises’ Riviera, departing
Tokyo March 20, 2024, and visiting Kyoto,
and Nagasaki, among other ports. Book by
April 30 for free shore excursions, beverage
package and more. oceaniacruises.com/
Curatif Cooler months call for warmer
drinks, and what could be nicer than a
margarita made spicier? The world’s best
cocktail makers, Curatif, have done it
again with their incredible Spicy Margarita.
Four cocktails for $45. curatif.com

4 5 6

Feline Natural provides rich nourishment
for a happy, healthy cat. Crafted with
New Zealand wholefood ingredients, their
pouches are available in a convenient
multipack with 12 single serves. RRP $39.99,
felinenatural.com/collections/pouches
The Greek Providore sources artisanal
food and liquor products from Greece,
like Kastra Elion, a sipping vodka distilled
from the fi nest Greek olives, blended with
curated grains and natural spring water.
RRP $129, thegreekprovidore.com.au
Spicers The Tamarind, Sum Yung Guys,
Rice Boi and Spirit House join forces for
the fifth Sunshine Coast Asian Food Festival
in Maleny in August. Includes food, drinks
and more, from $135 per adult and $95
per child. spicersretreats.com/events/

7 8 9

Tourism Noosa Nilla’s Pantry has a fresh,
organic salad bar, grab-and-go meals,
pre-prepared fridge and freezer meals,
and other goodies to take home – now
at VanillaFood, 8 Lanyana Way, Noosa
Heads. vanillafood.com.au
Flight Centre Trafalgar offers a wide
range of guided tours through Europe
and beyond, providing travellers with
unique experiences, expert guides and
convenience. flightcentre.com.au/deals/
europe-uk-tours#trafalgar
Frontier Pets Made from free-range protein
and certified organic produce sourced from
Aussie farmers, Frontier Pets is good for your
pet and the planet. The Trial Pack includes a
sample of each protein. Start making smart
choices today. RRP $49, frontierpets.com.au
 Gourmet Traveller Marketplace
HOLIDAY, ACCOMMODATION, FOOD CLOTHING

previous
owner of the
award winning
red feather
inn - new

Stay
project

IN LUXURIOUS COMFORT
AND UNIQUE STYLE

02 5317 8200 • info@byngstreethotel.com.au

Great heritage pub in the heart of the historic village of Evandale,
62 Byng Street Orange NSW 4 mins from Launceston airport.
Features great food, drinks, art and live music with a Tasmanian focus.
W W W. B Y N G S T R E E T H O T E L . C O M . A U Charleston Cottage Bookings & Clarendon Arms Bookings:

www.clarendonarms.com.au

TO ADVERTISE 0405 745 129 I HOMESTOLOVE.COM.AU/DIRECTORY

 Gourmet Traveller Marketplace
HOLIDAY, ACCOMMODATION & FOOD

lutececulinay.tours romain@lutèce.com.au bringing greece home

visit us online @
thegreekprovidore.com.au
Lutèce Culinary Tours are exclusively designed for
small groups, to ensure that guests enjoy the most out We ship Australia wide
of every experience.

Guests are taken on a uniquely extravagant French

culinary journey with insider access to Michelin Star
Chefs, bespoke experiences and luxury 5 star hotels
G R E E K I S L A N D
matched with food and wine that is second to none. Y A C H T
2023 Tours C H A R T E R S
CHAMPAGNE - ALSACE - BOURGOGNE
Saturday 9th September

PROVENCE - SOUTH WEST - BORDEAUX

Thursday 21st September

LOIRE VALLEY - NORMANDY - BRITTANY

Tuesday 3rd October

View 2024 Tours at lutèceculinary.tours

michelle@loulios.com

Pack free walking in Italy

It’s time to get your boots on and hit the trails exploring some Italy’s most
magical destinations such as the mountains of central Sicily, the Gargano
Peninsula in northern Puglia, hills and villages of Chianti, the vineyards of
Alba and, of course, the wonderful Amalfi Coast. The recent, pandemic
induced, downtime has given us time to review all twenty of our self-
guided itineraries, as well as develop our exclusive Hidden Italy walking
app. For full details of our fully-supported, pack-free walks go to our
website (details below).

www.hiddenitaly.com.au

TO ADVERTISE 0405 745 129 I HOMESTOLOVE.COM.AU/DIRECTORY

 Gourmet Traveller Marketplace
HOLIDAY, ACCOMMODATION, FOOD & ART

RS – Sicily
U 0 23 4
T t 2 2 02
O with
p r
Se Ap Rosa
ON MISSION BEACH Tour

Sicilian born chef Rosa Mitchell, from

Pandanus, sunbirds and sand -
beautiful accommodation in a lovely
beachfront setting under the coconut
trees fringing the Coral Sea.
info@sejala.com.au
www.sejala.com.au
Rosa's Canteen Melbourne, will take
you on an unique opportunity combining
your love of good food and wine with
your passion for travel: an exclusive
INSPIRED BY JAPANESE COALFIRE STYLE DINING,
fully-escorted 15-day holiday-with-a-
Contact +61 435 130 689
difference, in beautiful Sicily.
info @koyoadl.com WWW.KOYOADL.AU
For info email rosasiciliankitchen@gmail.com

Experience the best of Italy

ON A RELAXED, SMALL-GROUP TOUR!
nobonesbyronbay.com.au
11 Fletcher St. Byron Bay

Travel with us in September and October 2023!

We are a part of a plant based movement

and invite you to join us on our expedition to
Save the Earth one Brussel Sprout at a time
Book now | info@italiantours.com.au | italiantours.com.au
m.au | 02 9358 4923

AM 20958/22
Karen Napaljarri Barnes
Karen Barnes 2022
Acrylic on Belgian linen
91 x 76cm

TO ADVERTISE 0405 745 129 I HOMESTOLOVE.COM.AU/DIRECTORY

 HOME . FASHION . BEAUTY

Curated living
Minimalist interiors, hints
of grown-up Harajuku chic,
self-care for body and hair,
and picture-perfect cameras.

STYLING HANNAH BLACKMORE. PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTINA SOLJO.

146 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
 Home

ART OF SIMPLICITY 1

Explore the Japanese concept of “kanso” (purity)

where less is more and calm is of the essence.

10
PHOTOGRAPHY RORY GARDINER.

11
8
9

1 Lampe de Marseille wall light, $1638, Nook Collections. 2 Saskia Folk platter, $235, Tigmi Trading. 3 Betsy armchair in Unique Blue, $3840, Fenton
& Fenton. 4 Travertine Marco bowl, $250, Fenton & Fenton. 5 HK Living Ceramic jar, $99, House Of Orange. 6 Fritz Hansen basket in Ash Lacquer
Veneer, $425, Cult Design. 7 Cityscape cushion in Night Indigo $88, Shibori. 8 Tatami Natural rug, $3170, Cult Design. 9 Nau Nami Round coffee table,
$2559, Cult Design. 10 Chef Ceramics mug in Rustic Blue, $17.95, HK Living. 11 Chunky Box angora and merino wool throw in Wheat, $539, Bemboka.
ABOVE 8 Yard House designed by Studio Bright.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 147
 2

5
4

9
10

11

12
13 14

1 Smeg 600mm Classic Pyrolytic oven in Matte Black, $1690, Harvey Norman. 2 Elle Block Square side table, $1800, Globe West. 3 Herman Miller Nelson
Saucer Bubble pendant, $925, Living Edge. 4 HK Living Reactive Brown Ceramic sculpture, POA, House Of Orange. 5 Resin Skipping Stone Round vase
in Malachite, $105, Dinosaur Designs. 6 Tom Dixon Fat dining chair, $2685, Living Edge. 7 Gubi 9602 floor lamp, $1960, Cult Design. 8 August dining
table, $5940, Jardan. 9 Mortel Noir eau de parfum, $375, Trudon. 10 Garden to Table salad servers, $39.95, Robert Gordon. 11 Walter Knoll Jaan 780
sofa, POA, Living Edge. 12 Herman Miller Comma counter stool, $1965, Living Edge. 13 Tom Dixon Tank whiskey glasses, $149, Living Edge. 13 Origin
Solitude bowl, $109.95, Robert Gordon. OPPOSITE PAGE Courtyard House by Ha Architecture.

148 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
 Home

WABI SABI
From traditional Japanese aesthetics to
modern architecture, natural materials
prove to be perfectly imperfect.

E IN
OM
H
SP
I R ATI

O
N
PHOTOGRAPHY TOM ROSS.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 149
 13

12

2
11

Inspired
by
3

The Tokyo Edition

Toranomon, Japan

Tokyo drift
Colour and grown-up sparkle take
Tokyo dressing to the max.

10

PHOTOGRAPHY NIKOLAS KOENIG (TOKYO EDITION). MERCHANDISING HOLLY DORAN.

4

6
1 Monica Chain Link midi dress in Forest
Green, $695, Aje. 2 J12 Cybernetic
38mm watch, $22,000, Chanel.
3 Sacai multi-print fringed wrap skirt,
$954, Farfetch. 4 Yohji Yamamoto
round-frame optical glasses, $988,
Farfetch. 5 Comme des Garçons
sleeveless wool coat, $2353, Farfetch.
6 Comme des Garçons single-breasted
floral-print blazer, $2235, Farfetch.
5
9 7 Bao Bao Issey Miyake prism tote bag,
$1802, Farfetch. 8 Vlogo Signature
earrings, $3000, Valentino. 9 Electra
boots, $329.95, Alias Mae. 10 Sacai
metal-panel metallic wallet, $661,
Farfetch. 11 Yohji Yamamoto asymmetric
hem blazer, $3137, Farfetch. 12 Guardian
pant, $475, Alémais. 13 Sacai two-tone
buttoned coat, $2720, Farfetch.

8
7

150 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Spot on
Louis Vuitton and Yayoi Kusama’s latest
love child is destined for cult status.
WORDS ANNA McCOOE. PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTINA SOLJO. STYLING JACQUI TRIGGS.
LV x YK Speedy Bandoulière 20, $5150, Louis Vuitton.
First class
There’s anticipation in an ellipsis: the dot dot dot that
tells us there’s more to come. And with Japanese artist
Yayoi Kusama, fairy godmother of the statement spot,
there’s always something new to be said. The art-world
darling first teamed up with Louis Vuitton a decade ago,
when Marc Jacobs was creative director. In 2023 she
and the French luxury house are collaborating again.
This time her endlessly dotty motifs symbolise infinity
(a fitting statement for the pairing of two icons) and they
are emblazoned across the Maison’s creations under
the moniker LV x YK. At GT our eyes are firmly fixed on
the Speedy Bandoulière 20, a compact handbag,
serigraph-printed with Kusama’s signature spots. Swung
over the shoulder from the removable strap or tucked in
as an in-flight “personal item”, it’s a first-class vessel for
a Tokyo state of mind... To be continued.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 151
Beauty

GENT E
LI

DI
L
INTE

T
H E
T
BODY OF WORK
We’ve found the best products to care for skin from the neck down.
Because in matters of self-care, the body keeps the score.

1 KIT SOAP SLAB

2
Anyone who remembers the body gel
charge of the 2000s might be surprised
by bar soap’s return. And still, new wave
deluxe iterations have made a clean and
green comeback. This one is triple
milled for purity and enriched with
macadamia oil so it won’t dry out skin.
$16, mecca.com.au

COCO MADEMOISELLE THE BODY OIL

Scent meets skincare. This nourishing
body oil spray absorbs quickly for

3
a non-greasy finish with trails of Chanel’s
iconic amber fragrance. $110, chanel.com

NÉCESSAIRE THE BODY SERUM

Power plumper hyaluronic acid and

WORRDS ANNA McCOOE. PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTINA SOLJO. STYLING & MERCHANDISING HANNAH BLACKMORE.
super smoother niacinamide have
probably already made their way onto
your face in recent years but this body
serum takes their benefits below the
neckline. $75, mecca.com.au

CELLULAR ENERGISING MIST

4
La Prairie is leading the scented mist
movement. The new category pairs
fragrance (in this case ruby red grapefruit,
cardamom and verbena) with a burst of
hydration, resulting in a ritualistic and
nurturing swap for alcohol-based scents.
$245, laprairie.com

5
FRESH MILK BODY LOTION
Red and scaly skin will love this
plant-based milky solution, which
strengthens the skin barrier.
$58, sephora.com.au

ROSE BODY OIL

6
Jurlique aficionados already know that
their rose scent smells exactly like
a cottage garden after the rain. Now
fans can luxuriate in natural rose via
this silky body oil. $68, jurlique.com.au

152 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
 Tress tested
Everything you need to restore brittle,
lacklustre locks to high-gloss glory. 3

GT team
favourite

5
1

1 A five-minute health boost for damaged tresses. Hair by Sam McKnight Deeper Love Intense Treatment Mask, $91, Mecca. 2 Comb a couple of pumps
through wet or dry hair for softness and hydration. Ouai Leave In Conditioner, $50, Sephora. 3 A fatty acid salve for softer strands. Bread Beauty Supply
Macadamia Oil For Hair & Body, $46, Sephora. 4 This four-piece collection, including shampoo, conditioner, comb and this nurturing Finishing Serum has
your mane game sorted. Iles Formula Signature Collection, $206.50, Rogue Beauty. 5 The secret ingredient in this everyday conditioner is baobab protein,
which increases hair elasticity while the baobab’s oil adds moisture. Arkive All Day Everyday Conditioner, $24, Mecca. 6 Glides through hair to detangle or
distribute conditioner. Iles Formula comb, as before as part of collection. 7 For shine and heat protection. Kerasilk Multi-Benefit Hair Oil, $48, Oz Hair and
Beauty. 8 A keratin kick for fragile hair. Oribe Signature Moisture Masque, $92, Rogue Beauty.
Objects of desire

In focus
Put down your phone! These travel companions
will capture – and keep you in – the moment.

PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTINA SOLJO. MERCHANDISING CHARLOTTE WISHART. STYLING JACQUI TRIGGS.

Clockwise from top left: Instax Mini 12 in Mint Green, $119, Fujifilm. Nikon Z fc Mirrorless Camera in Midnight Grey, $2049, Harvey Norman.
Canon Powershot G7 X Mark III, $948, Harvey Norman. Instax Mini LiPlay in Blush Gold, $239, Fujifilm. Sony ZV-1F Vlogging Camera in White,
$849, Harvey Norman.

154 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R