http://www.cranberrylane.com/soapmaking.

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Making Natural Soap from Scratch

Whether you choose to make soap for your own personal use or for gift giving, you will no doubt be
hooked after your first batch. The following instructions are designed for both our kits and soap making
from scratch.
At Cranberry Lane our mission is,  To pioneer a standard of excellence in education, service, and
products, that support the earth and body with integrity and vision.
We hope that you enjoy the art of soap making as much as we do, one batch or many. We are always
interested in feedback and questions, so please email us at orderdesk02@cranberrylane.com or call
us at (604) 629-8383. See our on-line catalogue and newsletters.
If you enjoy making your own Natural Beauty Care products, you’ll love our line of Make-it-yourself body
care kits. With Cranberry Lane’s tried and true formulas and quality ingredients, you can make all-natural
products as individual as you are - and at a fraction of the cost.

Contents
Soap: What is it and where did it come from?
Animal versus Vegetable based soaps
The Soap Process
Preservatives
Equipment
Soap Moulds
Rebatching
Cautions
Testing for pH
Soap Making: Cold Process Method
Liquid Soap
Diagnosing signs of trouble in soap
Scents & Herbs to Try
Adding Your Favourite ingredients to your soap
Finishing Tips

Soap: What is it and where does it come from.

Until the early 1900’s, much of the soap used was made at home. Fats from cooking and butchering were
saved until there was enough to make a batch of soap. This all changed in 1916 when a shortage of fats
(a main ingredient in soap) occurred during World War I. As an alternative was needed, enterprising
companies developed the first synthetic soaps called detergents.

With a wide variety of oils available today, making your own soap is once again very inexpensive, and a
good choice for those concerned about quality, health related benefits, and the environment.

Successful soap making today is a result of a much better understanding of chemistry, experience, and a
wider variety of ingredients to choose from. Today's soaps are milder and better for skin thanks to the
availability of vegetable and plant based oils.
Chemically speaking, soap is a salt. An acid and a base react with one another and are neutralized to
form a salt or soap. A more basic explanation is: oils or fats combine with Sodium Hydroxide or “Lye” in a
process called saponification to produce soap.
Hand made soap retains extra glycerin, known to soften the skin naturally. Glycerin is one of the best
known humecants (attracts moisture to the skin). It is often extracted during the process of
manufacturing commercially made soap, then sold as a valuable by-product. Natural ingredients are
rarely used in commercially manufactured soap. If used at all, it is sparingly. One of the best advantages
of making your own soap is that you are in charge of quality control. You decide which ingredients to use
and how much.

Animal versus Vegetable-based Soaps

Originally, all soap was made from animal fats — mainly lard from pigs and tallow from cattle. It was
readily available and at the time no one questioned the use of animal by-products. Over time, new oils
were extracted from vegetables, grains and nuts providing an alternative to animal oils.
Vegetable oil soaps are chemically superior and can be of higher quality than soaps made with animal
fats. Vegetable oils are more readily absorbed by the skin while animal oils have been found to clog pores
and aggravate certain skin conditions, such as eczema.

The Soap Process

Natural hand-made soap is not difficult to make, once you understand the basics. You can make a batch
of soap in as little as one hour, depending on the formula.
The following is the basic formula for making all soap:

Fatty acid (oil) + Base (lye) = “A Salt” (soap)

The oil or fat is heated gently. Lye and water are combined separately. When both ingredients reach the
required temperature, they are combined. When the mixture becomes the desired consistency, it is
poured into a mould. The bars are then removed from the mould after setting up (approximately 24 to 48
hours). They are restacked and allowed to “cure” or dry until hard. This can take anywhere from 3 to 8
weeks depending on the formula.
There are 3 keys to successful soap making:

1.     Accurately weighed ingredients.

2.     A good formula.
3.     Proper technique.

Cold Process Method: This process is widely used by home-based soap makers. The
neutralization stage takes place during the moulding stage. Our kits follow this method.

Semi-boiled Method: After the soap mixture traces, heat is added using a double-boiler to cause
the soap to neutralize before being moulded.

Full-boiled Method: This method is where all ingredients are prepared in one large container. Heat
is added causing neutralization. Large commercial manufacturers use this method to achieve the by-
product called glycerin.

Transparent Soap: This soap is made clear by adding solvents such as alcohol to prevent crystals
from forming as the soap cools. Transparent soap is often referred to as Glycerin Soap. However, this is a
fallacy as glycerin is not needed to produce a clear or transparent soap. This soap can be drying to the
skin.
Melt and Pour Soap: Or also known a solid Glycerin blocks. Pure glycerin, animal or vegetable
derived, is always liquid and can only be solidified by the addition of plastizer chemicals. To produce a
foam, detergents are added. This method is simply making soap from soap and is more expensive than
starting from scratch. Melt and pour soaps may have natural ingredients added to them but they are
synthetically based.

Preservatives

A preservative is defined as something that protects against decomposition. However, nature has its own
agenda and decay is inevitable. There are no preservatives, synthetic or natural, that can completely stop
this process — they can only slow it down.

Oxidation occurs within fats/oils which causes rancidity and spoilage to occur. Carrot oil, Vitamin E oil,
and Grapefruit Seed Extract are three natural preservatives that are recommended. They contain
powerful anti-oxidants such as vitamin A, E and C, which can help prevent spoilage.

The formulas in this booklet do not require any additional preservatives, unless you choose to add an
ingredient that is vulnerable to rancidity, i.e. fresh fruit or vegetable matter.

Equipment Needed

 One large stainless steel mixing bowl (the larger the better). This greatly reduces the amount of
splatter leaving the bowl during the mixing process
 One heat-resistant container that hold 2 cups (glass Pyrex works well) to mix Lye and water.
Note: Using a large container may result in rapid heat loss and temperatures not reaching their
goal
 A container to heat oils. If using the stove, a stainless steel pot will do. If using the microwave,
use a microwave-safe container
 Candy or meat thermometer made of glass and stainless steel (having two works best — one for
the lye and one for the oil)
 Protective wear: long sleeved shirt, pants, shoes (no bare feet), glasses and rubber gloves. Keep
a bottle of vinegar nearby to neutralize lye spills
 Soap moulds; plastic, cardboard, or wood (use wax paper to line, see “Soap Moulds”)
 Measuring spoons, pot holders or oven mitts, and plastic spatulas
 Digital scale, accurate to at least two grams (if not using our kits)

Soap Moulds

Generally, you can use just about any type of plastic, wood, or cardboard as a soap mould. Do not use
tin, aluminum, Teflon, or copper as they react with the lye. Candy and candle moulds may work well, too.
If you want something simple, choose a square or rectangular container and cut the bars to size after
your soap has set. Cardboard milk or juice containers work well as they are coated with wax.

To make round soaps try recycling a plastic bottle. Using an empty, clean, plastic pop or round shampoo
bottle, carefully slice the sides of the bottle lengthwise. Tape sides using plastic packing tape to prevent
leakage. Pour the soap mixture and let set for required amount of time. Peel tape back and release your
soap, then cut the bars to a desired size. Set to cure as usual.

If you are having trouble getting your soap to release from the mould, try placing it in the freezer for two
hours. This will cause the soap mixture to shrink from the sides and make removal easier.
To help with release, use vegetable shortening to grease your moulds. Cardboard or wooden moulds
require a combination of waxed paper or freezer paper and vegetable shortening.

Tip: Line your moulds with brown freezer or butcher’s paper. Apply some vegetable shortening to the
inside surfaces of your mould, lay in some freezer paper, shiny side up, and trim to fit. After removal,
simply peel off the paper from your soap block the next day.

Rebatching into fancy moulds

Handmilling or rebatching soap after unmoulding is done to achieve greater medicinal benefits from
ingredients like herbs and essential oils, to increase colour intensity, and to change the shape and texture
of the soap.

Rebatching can be done after unmoulding by grating or chopping a soap bar and using water to melt it.
As a general rule, combine one cup of grated soap to 1/4 cup of water or herbal infusion. Heat in a
double boiler or use a glass Pyrex container to microwave. Heat gently, stirring constantly to help break
down soap pieces and evaporate the water. Continue until all water has evaporated. Remove from heat
and add optional ingredients i.e.: herbs, spices, grains, essential oils, creams or lotions, or carrier oils
such as jojoba or shea butter.

Caution!

 Soap making is not recommended for children because of the potential danger that lye poses.
 Carefully read the warning label on the lye bottle. Lye is also known as caustic soda (sodium
hydroxide)
 Use only pure lye granules — do not make the mistake of substituting drain cleaner. It contains
other ingredients that you would not want in your soap.
 Be sure to keep the lid tight on the bottle of lye. Moisture in the air will weaken its strength and
cause it to form lumps.
 Lye can be fatal if swallowed.
 Always wear rubber gloves and protective clothing, such as a long sleeved shirt and shielding
eyewear when working with lye.
 Be sure to work in a well-ventilated area. Vapours released from the lye when it is first mixed
with water are quite noxious, and can greatly irritate the lungs.
 Always have a bottle of vinegar close at hand. Vinegar will help neutralize the lye/water mixture
if it happens to splatter on your skin.
 Lye can remove paint, so be careful not to let it come in contact with any painted surfaces. If lye,
lye/water or even freshly made soap splatters on any painted surface, wash the area quickly with
water and detergent. Rinse with clear water and wipe dry.
 Freshly made soap can burn and irritate the skin, therefore it’s best not to handle soap with bare
hands for at least 48 hours. If your skin does come into contact with fresh soap, rinse your skin
with vinegar immediately, then rinse with running water.
 Do not use any containers made of tin, zinc or aluminum. Lye will react with them.
 Recommended containers for mixing your soap include glass, plastic, stainless steel, enamel, and
heat proof stoneware.

Testing your soap for proper pH level

You can test your soap for excess lye by applying a few drops of Phenolphthalein, a colourless, clear
liquid. This chemical will turn pink or fuchsia in the presence of an alkali or an excess of lye. Soap that is
to be used on the skin should be in the range of 7 to 9.5.
It’s the degree of pink that determines how alkaline your soap is. If a drop applied to the middle of a
soap cutting turns deep pink or fuchsia then the soap should not be used on the skin. This soap however
is great for the house and or laundry. If the drop stays clear or turns just the lightest shade of
transparent pink then your soap should be fine.

If your soap was left uncovered while in the mould then the white chalk-like substance on the surface
(soda ash) will also test alkaline. This can be trimmed off or avoided by applying plastic wrap to the
surface right after pouring your soap into the mould.

Soap Making: Cold Process Method

Carefully read the sections on Caution, and Soap making: the procedure before beginning. One of the
most common mistakes soap makers make is not weighing the ingredients carefully. This is a crucial
step. Make sure you use an accurate digital scale to weigh your oils and your Lye.

Each premixed bottle of oil makes approximately 700g of soap. You can combine several bottles together
to make a larger batch, however, it is a good idea when making soap for the first time to make small
batches in order to learn as you go.

1. If making soap from one of our kits, set one of Cranberry Lane’s pre-mixed oil bottles in a hot
water bath to liquefy contents (do not microwave these bottles). When the oil in the bottle
becomes clear, pour into a 2 cup measuring cup. Be sure to get all the oil out of the bottle.
If making soap from the “Soap Formulas” guide, accurately measure all oils required for your
soap recipe using a digital scale.
2. The Oil Phase. Gently heat oils using one of these two methods:
Stove Method: Use a stainless steel pot on the stove. Be careful not to burn oils.
Microwave Method: Use a microwave-safe container for your oils. Heat for 1 minute on high,
then use 20 second intervals thereafter, until the required temperature is reached. (150°F, 65°C
for our Basic or Deluxe Soap Making Kit).
Skill tip:
Heat oil to 10°C past the required temperature per formula. This will allow time for the lye to
cool to its correct temperature. Always heat oils before mixing lye and water.
3. The lye/water phase. Pour room temperature distilled water (amount specified by formula) into a
clean glass 2 cup size measuring cup. (If using our Basic, Refill, or Deluxe Soap Making Kit use
3/4 cup) While stirring, slowly add one bottle of lye. This mixture will quickly become very hot.
Continue stirring until the water turns clear. Do not inhale the fumes. Place a candy thermometer
in the cup, do not rest it on the bottom as it will give you a false reading — keep it somewhere in
the middle. Let this mixture cool to the required temperature (refer to “Soap Formulas” for
temperatures or use 150°F, 65°C for our Basic or Deluxe Soap Making Kit).
4. Pour the hot oil into a large mixing bowl. Use a plastic spatula to get all the oil out of the
measuring cup. When both oil phase and lye/water phase have reached their required
temperatures, slowly pour the lye/water mixture into the oil mixture while stirring in rapid, small
circles.
Note: Always add lye/water to oil, not the other way around.

Continue to stir this mixture even after you have finished combining the two parts. Use a rapid,
figure 8 pattern for stirring — being careful to incorporate the sides as well.
5. Stir the soap mixture until it “traces”. This is a term to describe the consistency or thickness, and
the stage where the soap mixture is ready to pour into moulds. Tracing is easily recognized.
Using a plastic spatula, drizzle a small amount across the top of the soap mixture. If a mark or
trail remains for a few seconds before disappearing again, your soap has traced. The mixture
should be the consistency of liquid honey or pudding before it’s poured. If your soap takes a little
 longer than normal, don’t worry — just keep stirring and it will eventually trace.
Tracing time for formulas can vary greatly; affected by room temperatures, humidity levels, and
the speed of stirring. The tracing time for our formulas are based on normal room temperatures
20° to 23°C and average humidity levels.
6. After the soap traces, you can add your own herbs and essential oils (see pages 12-13 for some
great ideas). Do not use perfume, synthetic fragrances, or extracts of any kind as the alcohol
content may interfere with the soap making process.
7. After adding any additional ingredients, pour your soap mixture into the mould. Place a piece of
clear plastic wrap on top to create an air barrier. Cover your mould with a blanket or towel and
place in a warm location away from drafts and children’s reach. Let set undisturbed for the
specified moulding time as stated in the formula for your oil blend.
Moulding tip: Grease your mould with vegetable shortening for ease of release later. Wear gloves
during clean up and use hot water and dish soap to remove all residue from equipment.

8. When removing soap from the mould, wear gloves to protect your hands. The soap may be
slightly caustic at this stage and can irritate your skin. Gently press the back of the mould. You
may find twisting the mold slightly works as well — same technique as removing ice from ice
cube trays. If your soap will not release easily, try placing the mould in the freezer for one hour.
Freezing causes moisture loss and the soap will contract and pull away from the edges. Use a
large knife to cut your soap into desired size bars. (Note: colour may fade in soap placed in the
freezer)
9. After soap has been cut into bars, place them on a piece of wax paper or plastic wrap in a cool,
dry, dark place to cure or age as specified in each formula. This time is necessary for the
moisture to evaporate. Using the soap prematurely will lead to a spongy bar that may not lather
or last very long. Wait for at least three weeks before finishing your bars (see section on
“Finishing”.) After your bars have had a chance to dry or cure they will be able to with stand
some rough handling. All good things take time! Write down the date of unmoulding and keep it
with the curing soap as a reference.

Within 1/2 hour of pouring your soap into the mould you should notice it becoming hotter and turning
dark in the middle. It can become quite dark and somewhat transparent. Bubbles may also come to the
surface. This is a sign that your soap is properly neutralizing. It should stay hot like this for several hours
before cooling and becoming light in colour again. Soap that is not properly insulated, cooled too much
during tracing, poured into too small a mould, or with initial temperatures too low may not completely
neutralize. 

Making Liquid Soap

Because of the moisture content of a natural liquid soap, they can be susceptible to rancidity. Keep your
liquid soap in a cool dry place and in an air tight bottle, preferably with a pump or flip top to dispense
your soap.

1. Follow the procedure for making soap as specified in the formula, with one exception — no
curing time.
2. After you have removed your soap from a simple mould, shave, shred or chop the soap into
small pieces.
3. Place one cup of shredded soap in a double-boiler and add 3 cups of water. Stir continually on
medium heat until melted.
Note: Soap may not completely melt. There may be small pieces that do not break down, simply
strain them out.
4. When all the soap has melted it should be very runny. If not, add an extra cup of water.
 5. Add four tablespoons of vegetable Glycerin and 1/2 tsp. of Grapefruit Seed Extract to help
preserve your liquid soap. You may also add any essential oil to scent before pouring your liquid
soap into bottles. Try adding 6 - 10 drops per 500ml. Your liquid soap should have a shelf life of
approximately 6 - 8 months.

Our shampoo refill kit or shampoo recipe melts into liquid soap very easily. It has a large proportion of
castor oil and makes a softer bar of soap. Soaps that are made with soft oils (oils that are liquid at room
temperature) make softer soaps. Although initially softer, many of these soaps will still cure to become
very hard bars.

Diagnosing Signs of Trouble in Soap

Trouble in Mixing Bowl

Your mixture does not trace after the time listed in the formula passes . You may have one of the
following problems: incorrect temperatures, stirring too slowly, or too much water. Make sure you get all
the oil blend and lye out of their containers. Measure water accurately to ensure the correct amount is
used, stir mixture smoothly and consistently. The Perfect Blend™ kit should trace within 45 minutes.

Your mixture suddenly begins to streak. Your temperatures may have been too cold. If your soap still
traces then quickly pour into molds.

Your mixture begins to curdle in the bowl. Synthetic fragrances may cause this.

Small chunks form in the bowl while mixing . Your oils, lye, or both may have been poured too hot, or you
are stirring inconsistently or too slowly. Soap mixture may still trace, but this mixture is unsuitable,
leading to poor soap quality. Test soap after un-moulding.

Your mixture becomes, or is slightly grainy. Temperatures were either too high or too low, or your stirring
wasn’t brisk and consistent. Maintaining temperature is very important for soap making. If your soap
batch is split up and poured into small moulds after tracing, it may lose temperature to quickly and not
completely neutralize.

Trouble Signs in Finished Soap

Your soap cracks or breaks when un-moulded or when being cut. You may have added too much dry
ingredients, or traced your soap batch too long. See “Scents & Herbs to Try.”

Your soap has a thin layer of white on the surface . Your soap mixture has reacted to the oxygen in the
air. This is only an aesthetic problem, refer to Step #7 in the “Soap Making, the cold process method”
section to avoid this next time.

Your soap has hard, shiny chunks of solid lye, the rest of your soap is soft with a slippery liquid on the
bottom. Your soap may have been poured into the mold before it had traced, or you stirred too slowly or
inconsistently. Do not use these bars, they will irritate the skin.

You see air bubbles in your soap. You may have stirred too quickly, or for too long.
Your soap has an excessive amount of white powder on top of the bars, is cakey, or crumbly. Hard water
may have been used to dissolve the lye. You should not use these bars, as they may irritate your skin. Be
sure to use only distilled water in the future.

Scents and Herbs To Try:

See our Soap making Additives & Recipes page.

How to Add your Favourite Ingredients

Remember to add all optional ingredients after your soap has traced. Note One batch refers to one bottle
of any of our blended oils which make approximately 10 bars. If you are blending oils yourself, for the
purposes of these instructions, one batch makes 700 grams of soap.

Essential Oils are defined as: "Highly concentrated essences extracted from portions of the plant."
They have been valued and used throughout history for their therapeutic and scent qualities. You can
add a wide variety of essential oils to your soap as long as they are considered safe. Essential oils are
highly concentrated and are extremely powerful. Some are beneficial while others can be harmful. It is
best to research an oil before using it to: a) determine the safety of the oil, and b) ensure that the oil(s)
are compatible with your body type. For the soap maker, the only oils that have a habit of causing some
problems (if added in high volume) are the citrus oils. They can disrupt the soap making process causing
the soap to curdle. Limit these oils to no more than 2 tablespoons (30ml) per 700g batch.

Blending for scent qualities: Many scents today are the direct result of scent characteristics
present in nature. When it comes to blending a scent there are three main scent classifications or
"notes": top, middle, and base. The top note is the odour that is immediately perceived, generally
uplifting and stimulating; i.e. orange. The middle note, or modifier, provides full, solid character to the
scent. Clary Sage and Marjoram are often selected as middle notes. The base note, or end note, adds
depth to a blend. It becomes apparent when the top and middle notes have faded and the last volatile
components remain. Clove and Sandalwood are common base notes. 
A general guideline for scenting your soap using top, middle, and base notes is: Top notes require 15 to
20 ml of essential oil per batch, for middle notes use 5 to 10ml of essential oil per batch and for base
notes use 2.5 to 5ml per batch. Scenting your soaps is a personal choice and individual tastes will vary.
We recommend adding a fixative to your soap if you are adding essential oils. A common fixative such as
Orris Root powder acts as a "glue" for the scent. We suggest adding 1/2 tsp of Orris Root powder per
700g batch.

Top Notes Middle Notes Base Notes

Mandarin Tea Tree Clove

Bergamot Clary Sage Cinnamon

Grapefruit Anise Oakmoss

Lemon/Lime/Orange Rosewood/Rosemary Cedarwood

Peppermint Geranium Sandalwood

Spearmint Lavender Patchouli

  Rose/Jasmine Black Pepper

Colouring your soaps: Using ingredients like clays you can achieve shades of pink and terracotta
red. For earth purple use Ratanjot, for yellows use Annatto seeds, for greens use Chlorophyll, Stevia,
Spirulina and Alfalfa powder, for peach and orange tones try Paprika.
Try adding 1/2 tsp. at a time until you have achieved the desired shade.

Herbs, flowers and other additives: Most herbs and flowers lose there colour when added to
first run soaps. It is always best to handmill or rebatch your soap for such results. You can add other
ingredients like grains and seeds either in a whole or ground state, be sure to limit their use to a
maximum volume of 2 tbsp. per batch of soap.

Superfatting: You can add an extra carrier oil to increase the moisturizing capabilities of your soap.
Do not exceed 2 tablespoons per batch. Oils such as Jojoba, Shea Butter, Castor, Avocado and Hemp are
excellent choices for superfatting.

What to avoid: The following ingredients are not safe to add to your soap: Food colouring, fabric dyes,
candle dyes, paints, or melted Crayons (even the non-toxic type)

Finishing Tips

When it comes to finishing and packaging your soap, the only limit is your imagination. Have fun with
different techniques. Here are a few ideas to get you started.
Note: Allow your bars to cure at least 3 weeks.

·    To remove the rough outer surface of your soap, buff your bars with an abrasive cloth or piece of
pure wool. You may have some bumps and lumps that can be removed easily with a knife. For a simple
and quick design, take a small, serrated paring knife and shave off a thin layer of soap on one side. This
will leave a wavy line, symbolizing water.

·    A simple way to decorate and wrap your soap is to use a piece of paper or cloth as a band around the
soap. Allow approximately 1/2” of soap exposure on either side. It’s nice to see and smell your hand-
made soap. Try paper bags, cloth remnants, postcards, or old greeting cards.

·    Personalize your bars with the person’s name on the label. “Suds for Bud”, “Barbara’s Beauty Bar”.
Make guest soaps for a wedding with the bride and groom’s names and date. Make great stocking
stuffers or basket fillers. How about candy cane (peppermint essential oil) scented liquid soap?

·    For an elaborate monogram, use a separate, smaller mould in the shape of a letter or design —
choose a dark shade of soap for this technique. When your letter or design soap is set, remove it from its
mould and place it upside down at the bottom of a larger mould. Then pour white or light coloured soap
over the object and let it set. When the two have set together, carefully remove from the mould and
polish.

Description of Ingredients
Avocado Oil: Pressed from dried and fresh avocado. A stable oil with a built in antioxidant system. High
in Vitamins A, B, and D, and rich in lecithin. Has a beneficial effect on dry skin and wrinkles.
Beeswax: Excreted by worker bees to construct the honeycomb. Has excellent skin protective qualities
and increases hardness of soap.
Castor Oil: Expressed from the Castor Bean. Soothing to the skin, it is used widely in lipsticks, solid
perfumes and bath oils. As a soap making oil it acts as a humectant.
Coconut Oil: Pressed from the dried meat of the coconut. Adds lather and moisturizing properties.
Cocoa Butter: Expressed from the roasted seeds of the Cocoa plant. Softens and lubricates the skin.
Distilled Water: The collected and condensed steam of boiling water.
Jojoba Oil: A natural liquid from the kernels of the Jojoba desert plant. Has a chemical composition
resembling the skin’s sebum. Antibacterial characteristics. Excellent for dry skin conditions.
Lye: The solution of Sodium Hydroxide and water. Sodium Hydroxide or Caustic Soda is the strong
alkaline base component of soap making.
Olive Oil: (Pomice grade) Made from the pressing of the olive fruit and pits. An inferior food grade olive
oil but good for soap making.
Palm Oil: Extracted from the fruit of the palm tree. This oil is rich and viscous. Soothes and moisturizes
dry skin.
Palm Kernel Oil: Extracted from the nut of the palm tree. Used in small proportions it adds hardness to
soap and provides lather.
Shea Butter: From the nuts of the Bassia parkii tree in Africa. It is high in unsaponifiables and adds
moisturizing properties to soap.
Vegetable Shortening: Hydrogenated Canola Oil. A inexpensive soft oil to balance the hard oils of
coconut and palm.

Each of these recipes makes 1.5kg (3.3lbs.) of soap. A mould of these dimensions or that
adds up to the same number when multiplied together will do. (6"x7"x2.5"deep) The
wooden soap mould in the Moulds page of or on-line shopping section works very well.

Basic Soap Formula

oily to normal skin
Ingredients Temperatures & Times
598 g Coconut OilOil Temperature 55°C (130°F)
296 g Vegetable ShorteningLye/Water Temperature 55°C (130°F)
30 g Beeswax Cure Time 3 Weeks
58 g Trace Time
Avocado Oil 15 Minutes
150 g Mould Time
368 ml Lye (6% discount) 24 Hours
Distilled Water

Olive & Palm

sensitive and normal skin
Ingredients Temperatures & Times
680 g Olive Oil (pomace)Oil Temperature 55°C (130°F)
302 g Palm OilLye/Water Temperature 55°C (130°F)
18 g Beeswax Cure Time 4 Weeks
128 g Trace Time
Lye (6% discount) 25 Minutes
374 ml Mould Time
Distilled Water 24 Hours
Soap making Recipes

Each additive formula below suits any one batch of Cranberry Lane’s blended soapmaking oils.
Alternatively, these additives can be added to a 1kg/2.2lb. batch of soap made from scratch.

Remember to add these ingredients after soap traces.

Oatmeal & Honey   Gardener’s Bar

"A gentle creamy soap" "For those who aren’t afraid of a little dirt"

1 tsp Palmarosa Essential oil   10ml Orange Sweet Essential oil

2 tbsp Oatmeal finely ground 2.5ml Tea Tree Essential oil
1/2 tsp Honey Liquid 2 tbsp Nitty Gritty Exfoliant blend
1 tsp Orris root powder

Blue Jeans   Wild Ginger & Lemongrass

2ml Lemongrass Essential oil  
2ml Vetiver Essential oil
2ml Ylang Ylang Essential oil
1 tsp Benzion powder
1 tbsp Earth Blue colour
5ml Wild Ginger Essential oil blend
2 tsp Ginger root powder
1 tsp Lemon grass (finely ground)
1 /2 tsp Orris root powder
1 tbsp Earth Yellow colour

Flower Petals & Cream   Christmas Spice Soap

1/2 tsp Geranium Essential oil   5 ml Christmas Spice Essential oil blend
1 tsp Pettigrain Essential oil 1 tsp ground cloves
1 tsp Palmarosa Essential oil 1/2 tsp Orris root powder
1 tsp Orris root powder 1/2 tsp Orange peel (finely ground)
2 tsp Pink clay
1 tbsp of body lotion or cream (hand made,
natural)

Winter Mint   Tea Tree & Oatmeal

"A cooling soap"

5ml Peppermint Essential oil   5 ml Tea Tree Essential oil

5ml Spearmint Essential oil 2 tbsp finely ground Oatmeal
1 ml Sweet Birch Essential oil 1 tsp of Cocoa powder (for colour)
1 tsp Orris root powder 1/2 tsp Orris root powder
2 tsp Green clay

Nitty Gritty Exfoliating Soap   Coffee Spice Bar

5ml Licorice Zest Essential oil blend (Orange   1 tbsp Expresso coffee
Sweet Essential oil and Anise) 1 tsp Benzoin Resin
2 Tbsp Nitty Gritty Exfoliatant blend 2ml Cinnamon Essential oil
(Oatmeal, Myrrh gum, Poppy seed, Anise seed, 2ml Geranium Essential oil
pumice powder, Lemon and Orange Peel)

Green Tea & Cocoa Butter Bar   Pet Scape Soap

2 tsp finely ground green tea leaves   5 ml Pet Scape essential oil blend
5ml Ginger Essential oil 1 tsp Lemongrass herb (finely ground)
2ml Palmarosa Essential oil   1 tbsp Tansy flowers (finely ground)
4 tbsp finely ground Cocoa Butter (fold into 1/2 tsp Orris root powder
traced soap)
1 tsp Orris root powder

Daily Deodorant Bar   Lavender Lust

5 ml Daily Deodorant Essential oil blend   5 ml Lavender Lust Essential oil blend
1/2 tsp Orris root powder 1/2 tsp Ratanjot powder
1 tbsp very strong coffee 1/2 tsp Orris root powder

Sprinkle a 1-2 tsp of Lavender Lust herb blend

after pouring your soap into the mould

Shea Butter Moisture Bar   Odour Eater Kitchen Hand Soap

1 tbsp Shea butter (melted slightly)   10 ml "Home Free" Essential oil blend
1 tsp Myrrh gum 1 tsp ground coffee
5 ml "Renew Skin" Essential oil blend 1 tsp ground cinnamon

Floral Fetish Rich Body Bar   Desert Bloom

1 tbsp Body Blend oil   5 ml "Desert Bloom" Essential oil blend

10ml "Floral Fetish" Essential oil blend 1 tsp ground cloves
2 tbsp finely ground Rose petals 1 tsp ground coffee
1 tsp Orris root powder 1 tsp Orris root powder
1 tbsp Earth Red Colour

Green Tea & Honey Facial Bar   Camper's Best Friend

1 tbsp Green Tea Extract   1ml Catnip Essential oil

1 tbsp Honey 10ml "Pet Scape" Essential oil blend
1 tsp Orris root powder 1/2 tsp Orris root powder
5 ml "Renew Skin" Essential oil blend 2 tbsp finely ground Lavender

Conversion:
1ml = 1/4 tsp
2ml = 1/2 tsp
5ml = 1 tsp

<-- Back to Recipe Index

<-- Back to Soapmaking Instructions

Soap Techniques
There are limitless techniques that can take handmade soap beyond the simple bar. In this
section we will explore adding existing soap pieces to a new batch. This involves adding
pieces of multi coloured soap to a batch of white soap. Many different patterns can be
revealed when the soap is finished and cut.

You should have a good understanding of basic soap making before trying these techniques. For more
information and step by step soap instructions, click here.

<-- Back to Recipe Index

There are limitless techniques that can take handmade soap beyond the simple bar. In this section we
will explore adding existing soap pieces to a new batch. This involves adding pieces of multi coloured
soap to a batch of white soap. Many different patterns can be revealed when the soap is finished and
cut.

You should have a good understanding of basic soap making before trying these techniques. For more information
and step by step soap instructions, click here.
 
Confetti Soap

Here are some of the tools we will be using. In addition to the oils
and lye to make your soap, either from scratch or with one of our
kits, you will need a mould (square or loaf shaped), a small
amount of oil or shortening, freezer paper or waxed paper to line
the mould, a cutting board, large knife, potato peeler, plastic
wrap, and some extra multi-coloured soap pieces or a bag or two
of our Soap Scraps. You may also need soap making tools such as
a thermometer, spatulas, measuring spoon, measuring cups, old
towel or small blanket for insulating, scale etc...

In our first technique, we will keep it simple

and add small chopped up coloured soap
pieces to a white soap batch. Start by
carefully chopping up pieces. A plastic or
wood cutting board will suffice.

 
 Add the coloured pieces to your soap batch once it has traced and
essential oils have been added. We used 10ml of a delightful essential oil
blend called Hawaiian Escape for this batch. 

After stirring the pieces into the traced soap once

or twice to incorporate, pour this mixture into your
mould(s). In this case we used a deep dish mould.
Notice we protect our work surface with old
newspapers. A bit of making tape on the corners
holds everything in place.

Smooth the top before applying plastic wrap and insulating the
mould with towels or blankets. Keep the insulated moulds in a
warm location. On top of a refrigerator can be a good warm
location away from pets and children.

After the soap neutralizes, it can be removed from the mould and
cut into bars. These confetti bars will show the embedded pieces.
Use a large knife with a smooth thin blade. A Sushi knife works
well due to it's narrow profile. Allow these bars 3 weeks to cure
(dry) before using. This will allow the excess moisture to
evaporate and make them a long lasting bar.
 Finished square bars cut and ready for drying. These bars were
made with the same technique but poured into a square tray
mould lined with waxed paper to prevent sticking.

Confetti Curls Soap

Another technique for adding

colour to bar involves adding curls
and ribbons. A potato peeler can
be used to cut strips of soap from
fresh coloured blocks.

These coloured strips

can then be combined
and rolled into tight
or loose curls.
 Curls ready for mold.

Arrange curls in mould lined with

wax paper and pour in traced
soap. Cover with plastic wrap and
insulate with towels.

Finished bars ready to cure!

Basic Soap Formula 1.4kg

 
Ingredients Temperatures & Times
598 g Coconut Oil Oil Temperature 55°C (130°F)
296 g Vegetable Shortening Lye/Water Temperature 55°C (130°F)
30 g Beeswax Cure Time 3 Weeks
58 g Trace Time
Avocado Oil 15 Minutes
150 g Mould Time
368 ml Lye (6% discount) 24 Hours
Distilled Water

Embedded Bar Soap

Embedded Bar Soap

Here are some of the tools we will be using. In addition to the oils
and lye to make your soap, either from scratch or with one of our kits, you will need a mould (square or loaf shaped),
a small amount of oil or shortening, freezer paper or waxed paper to line the mould, a cutting board, large knife,
plastic wrap, and some extra multi-coloured soap pieces. You may also need soap making tools such as a
thermometer, spatulas, measuring spoon, measuring cups, old towel or small blanket for insulating, scale etc...

 
For this technique, we will cut long square
or triangular shaped bars from a block of
soap. First we made a soap and added
indigo root powder for a deep blue colour.
We added more indigo than usual as we
planned to add pieces to other soaps. The
green bar on the right was coloured with
alfalfa powder. We don't allow these colour
blocks to cure or harden excessively. This
keeps them soft and easier to cut. 

I. The mould was greased with shortening

then lined with wax paper. Plastic wrap or
freezer paper are also good lining materials.

Here is a close-up of the bars arranged in the mould ready for

soap.
 Once your soap has traced, add essential oils and fixatives (if required) then
gently and slowly pour in and around
the bars in the mould. If a few of the
bars move (see below), use a spatula
or stainless steel spoon to nudge them
back into location. Cover the soap with
plastic wrap and insulate with towels. 

After the soap neutralizes, it can be removed from the mould and cut into bars.
Use a large knife with a smooth thin
blade. A Sushi knife works well due
to it's narrow profile. Allow these
bars 3 weeks to cure (dry) before
using. This will allow the excess
moisture to evaporate and make
them a long lasting bar. The block
can also be cut on an angle to reveal
many different patterns.

Multi coloured bars ready to be finish trimmed then racked and

cured!

Here is a recipe for a good all around white soap if you prefer to make it from scratch. If using one of our kits, we
recommend the Perfect Blend (included in our Soap Kit) or the Cocoa Butter Blend.

Basic Soap Formula 1.4kg

 
Ingredients Temperatures & Times
598 g Coconut Oil Oil Temperature 55°C (130°F)
296 g Vegetable Shortening Lye/Water Temperature 55°C (130°F)
30 g Beeswax Cure Time 3 Weeks
58 g Trace Time
Avocado Oil 15 Minutes
150 g Mould Time
368 ml Lye (6% discount) 24 Hours
Distilled Water