1.2 MATERIALS Technical Specification 11-2018

1.
2
MATERIALS
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
for PS book & seasonal materials
For quality testing please find the requirements in H&M

“Quality, standard & requirements” (QS&R)
MATERIAL CHAPTER 1.2
Wire specification Local development
For quality testing please find the requirements in H&M “Chemical restrictions”
WIRES
Stainless steel complying with nickel restrictions for direct and prolonged skin contact. Pls follow
MSD/ approved blue print in sizing
Ref.
Gauge Measurement
supplier
WJ2182 HUNG HON Flat 0.8 x 2.1 mm wide
WJ22102 HUNG HON Flat 1.0 x 2.2 mm wide
W2880 HUNG HON Flat 0.8 x 2.8 mm wide
W32112 HUNG HON Flat 1.12 x 3.2 mm wide
For grading see chart in

“Material chapter” 1.1
OLD WIRES
Stainless steel complying with nickel restrictions for direct and prolonged skin contact. Pls follow
MSD/ approved blue print in sizing
Ref.
Gauge Measurement
supplier
17G HING YIP Flat 0.8 x 2 mm wide (also acceptable in flat 0.7 x 2 mm wide)
155G HING YIP Flat 0.8 x 2.8 mm wide
For grading see chart in

“Material chapter” 1.1
1
Shoulder strap performance PS book WING and seasonal
SHOULDER STRAP
QUALITY : FIRM
Woven
Elongation Modulus
mm Handstretch 8.8lbs load 8.8lbs load Recovery
(+/-5%) (ASTM4964-96) 20% 40% 60% 80%
16 145% 37% 4.67 ----- ----- ----- >=85%
QUALITY : STANDARD
Woven
Elongation Modulus
(+/-5%) (ASTM4964-96) 20% 40% 60% 80%
10 160% 75% 1.42 2.45 4.20 ----- >=85%
12 160% 69% 1.64 3.11 ----- ----- >=85%
14 160% 65% 2.35 4.04 ----- ----- >=85%
16 160% 60% 2.50 4.50 ----- ----- >=85%
18 160% 60% 2.69 ----- ----- ----- >=85%
QUALITY : LIGHT
Woven and knitted
Elongation Modulus
(+/-5%) (ASTM4964-96) 20% 40% 60% 80%
6 160% 80% 0.65 1.15 2.2 ----- >=85%
8 160% 78% 0.90 1.75 3.0 ----- >=85%
10 160% 73% 1.11 2.20 ----- ----- >=85%
12 160% 70% 1.30 2.70 ----- ----- >=85%
2
Wing elastic performance
WING ELASTIC
Woven
Elongation Modulus
(+/-5%) (ASTM4964-96) 20% 40% 60% 80%
9 180% 96% 0.70 1.20 1.85 3.50 >=85%
11 180% 95% 0.79 1.30 2.05 3.85 >=85%
14 180% 90% 1.15 1.85 3.10 ----- >=85%
23 180% 80% 1.86 2.87 4.26 ----- >=85%
Wider woven wing elastic

Elongation Modulus
(+/-5%) (ASTM4964-96) 20% 40% 60% 80%
26 210% 111% 0.81 1.46 2.13 ----- >=85%
30 210% 108% 1.11 1.84 2.61 ----- >=85%
40 210% 98% 1.36 2.34 3.45 ----- >=85%
Knitted
Elongation Modulus
(+/-5%) (ASTM4964-96) 20% 40% 60% 80%
9 200% 120% 0.50 0.95 1.38 2.08 >=85%
11 200% 120% 0.68 1.20 1.65 2.20 >=85%
14 200% 120% 0.79 1.37 1.92 2.71 >=85%
WING ELASTIC with SILICONE

Woven
Elongation Modulus
(+/-5%) (ASTM4964-96) 20% 40% 60% 80%
9 215% 143% 0.53 0.97 1.33 1.75 >=85%
11 215% 143% 0.62 1.08 1.55 2.07 >=85%
14 215% 140% 0.75 1.33 1.82 2.39 >=85%
23 215% 112% 1.41 2.33 3.19 - >=85%
Note : values are Including silicon
Knitted
Elongation Modulus
(+/-5%) (ASTM4964-96) 20% 40% 60% 80%
9 220% 145% 0.59 0.90 1.25 1.90 >=85%
11 220% 145% 0.70 1.15 1.60 2.11 >=85%
14 220% 140% 0.89 1.38 1.85 2.45 >=85%
Note : values are Including silicon
3
Wing elastic performance
WING SANDWICH ELASTIC

Elongation Modulus
(+/-5%) (ASTM4964-96) 20% 40% 60% 80%
18 200% 98% 1.20 2.02 3.05 ----- >=85%
22 190% 86% 1.85 2.95 4.43 ----- >=85%
28 190% 78% 2.18 3.49 ----- ----- >=85%
4
Misc. elastic performance PS book MISCHELLANEOUS and seasonal
MISC. THIN ELASTIC
Woven
Elongation Modulus
(+/-5%) (ASTM4964-96) 20% 40% 60% 80%
4 235% 143% 0.14 0.24 0.33 0.47 >=85%
6 235% 147% 0.20 0.33 0.46 0.64 >=85%
9 235% 154% 0.23 0.39 0.54 0.74 >=85%
15 235% 148% 0.41 0.69 0.95 1.28 >=85%
20 240% 148% 0.49 0.90 1.26 1.68 >=85%
25 225% 136% 0.73 1.25 1.72 ---- >=85%
30 225% 125% 0.85 1.42 2.02 ---- >=85%
Knitted
Elonga on Modulus
(+/-5%) (ASTM4964-96) 20% 40% 60% 80%
4 240% 148% 0.13 0.23 0.33 0.49 >=85%
6 240% 145% 0.19 0.35 0.50 0.73 >=85%
9 240% 142% 0.29 0.53 0.75 1.10 >=85%
5
H&E specification PS book HOOK & EYE
3 ROW H&E
63 mm
3R X 1H 19 mm
7 mm 20.3 mm 15 mm 7 mm
12.7 mm
12.7 mm
3R X 2H 26 mm
3R X 3H 40 mm
3R X 3H 50 mm
3R X 4H 57.2 mm
6
H&E specification PS book HOOK & EYE
4 ROW H&E
76 mm
4R X 3H 40 mm
7 mm 7 mm
20.3 mm 14.3 mm
12.7 mm 12.7 mm
4R X 3H 50 mm
7
Corset H&E specification PS book PLASTIC & METAL DETAILS
H&E TAPE FOR CORSET

13 mm 26 mm 20 mm 15 mm 15 mm 13 mm
7.5 mm
(approx.)
Plain H&E 5 mm
19 mm
Length
19 mm according
to m.list
No. of H&E Total length in cm
2 3.8
3 5.7
4 7.6
5 9.5
6 11.4 7.5 mm
7 13.3
EX. calculation for 6 eyes

(7.5 x 2) + (19 x 5) + 4 = 11.4 cm
13 mm 17 mm 20 mm 15 mm 15 mm 13 mm
will be length according to m.list
7.5 mm
(approx.)
Shell fabric 5mm
covered H&E
19 mm
Length
19 mm according
to m.list
7.5 mm
8
Boning specification Local development
BONINGS
Ref. supplier : Luen Fat

Ref. art no : B3 Width : 5 mm Thickness : Approx. 2 mm
HARD
MATERIAL REFERENCE CUTTING
Ref. art no : B6 Width : 5 mm Thickness : Approx. 1.25 mm

MEDIUM Standard
Ref. art no : B13 Width : 4.8 mm Thickness : Approx. 1 mm

SOFT
Made from mould, length from min 2.5 cm to max 11,5 cm
Ref. art no : B27 Width : 4.8 mm Thickness : Approx. 1 mm

SOFT
Made on roll, length from 11.5 cm to max 45 cm
9
Casing specification Local development
CASING FOR WIRE & BONING Must use non-fusible yarn!
Ref. supplier : Sun Tak

Ref. art no : 401029L/10 and 401029L/12
10 mm
12 mm
10 mm for SOFT & MEDIUM boning

12 mm for HARD boning
For wire, see below chart
Wires
Ref. Wire casing

Gauge Wire width Measurement
supplier width
WJ2182 HUNG HON 2.1 10mm Flat 0.8 x 2.1 mm wide
WJ22102 HUNG HON 2.2 10mm Flat 1.0 x 2.2 mm wide
W2880 HUNG HON 2.8 12mm Flat 0.8 x 2.8 mm wide
W32112 HUNG HON 3.2 12mm Flat 1.12 x 3.2 mm wide
OLD wires
Gauge Wire width Spacing between 2N Width of casing
17G 2 Approx 6.4mm 10mm
155G 2.8 Approx 7.2mm 12mm
10
Foam padding specification Local development
FOAM PADDING 4 mm measured excl. lamination

Standard
Ref. supplier : Vanessa Holding

Density & hardness : 35kgm3 +/-2m3 and 80 +/-5
FOAM PADDING 2 mm measured excl. lamination

Density & hardness : 35kgm3 +/-2m3 and 80 +/-5
11
Foam padding lamination Local development
FOAM PADDING LAMINATION

Ref. supplier : Vanessa
Foam Ref. art no :
2mm : B601615-1
4mm : B601618-1
INNER LAMINATION : OUTER LAMINATION :

Composition :100% Poly Composition : 100% Poly
Fabric weight : 116g/m² Fabric weight : 116g/m²
Fabric art no : C01 Fabric art no : C01

Foam Ref. art no :
2mm : B601616-1
4mm : B601619-1

Composition : Micro poly Composition : 100% Poly
12

Foam Ref. art no :
2mm : B601617-1
4mm : B601620-1

Composition : T/C Composition : 100% Poly
Fabric weight: 137g/m² Fabric weight : 116g/m²

Foam Ref. art no :
2mm : B601621-1
4mm : B601622-1

Composition : Brushed Composition : 100% Poly
Pls use antistatic finishing for this quality
13

Foam Ref. art no :
2mm : B601749-1
4mm : B601754-1

Composition : Skin Touch Composition : 100% Poly
Fabric weight: 198g/m² Fabric weight : 116g/m²
14
Extra cup lining for padded bras Local development
EXTRA OUTER CUP LINING for padded bras

Ref. art no : C01
Composition : 100% Polyester
Fabric weight : 116 g/m²
15
Cup lining for non padded wire bras Local development
CUP LINING for non padded wire bras
Non stretch (mechanical stretch)

Ref. supplier : Hop Field
Ref. art no : HF3012M
Composition : 100% Nylon
Fabric weight : 38g/m²
16
Cup lining for non padded soft bras Local development
CUP LINING for non padded soft bras
1-way stretch
Ref. supplier : Lingtex
Ref. art no : 2339-37
Composition : 90% Nylon 10% Spandex
1-way stretch
Ref. supplier : Lingtex
Ref. art no : 2339
Composition : 90% Nylon 10% Spandex
17
Cookie pocket lining Local development
COOKIE POCKET LINING

Cut & sewn cookie lamination should be in same quality
Low price orders only, shiny quality

Ref. supplier : Fu Yang Ltd
Ref. art no : FYWT47
Standard quality, brushed quality

Ref. supplier : Fu Yang Ltd
Ref. art no : FYJT63
18
Cookie pocket lining Local development
COOKIE POCKET LINING

Cut & sewn cookie lamination should be in same quality
For colorways that fail to use brushed quality, dull quality

Ref. supplier : Honggang
Ref. art no : T591030NN
Fabric weight : 100 g/m²
19
Stabilizer Local development
STABILIZER
Standard
Ref. supplier : SunHing

Ref. art no : H0082
Fabric weight : 45g/gsm
20
Stabilizer Local development
SOFT STABILIZER
Ref. supplier : Sun Hing

Ref. art no : H0280
21
Cut & Sewn cup tape Local development
TAPE FOR CUT & SEWN CUPS
Ref. supplier : Hop Field

Ref. art no : HF3012M
NOTE: This mesh is very light, so that it will be easy with some snagging situation when product processing. Garment factories
need to notice the working environment to avoid making snagging on the mesh when inspection, cutting, sewing ...etc.
22
Crotch lining specification Local development
CROTCH LINING
Ref. supplier : Huizhong Fangzhicailiao

Ref. art no : HZ32SJC
Composition : 100% Cotton
Fabric weight : Approx. 130-135 gsm
23
Popper specification Local development
POPPERS
Ref. supplier : Wing Fung

Ref. art no : CM1818CST
24

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1.

For quality testing please find the requirements in H&M

WJ2182 HUNG HON Flat 0.8 x 2.1 mm wide

WJ22102 HUNG HON Flat 1.0 x 2.2 mm wide

W2880 HUNG HON Flat 0.8 x 2.8 mm wide

W32112 HUNG HON Flat 1.12 x 3.2 mm wide

For grading see chart in

155G HING YIP Flat 0.8 x 2.8 mm wide

For grading see chart in

16 145% 37% 4.67 ----- ----- ----- >=85%

10 160% 75% 1.42 2.45 4.20 ----- >=85%

12 160% 69% 1.64 3.11 ----- ----- >=85%

14 160% 65% 2.35 4.04 ----- ----- >=85%

16 160% 60% 2.50 4.50 ----- ----- >=85%

18 160% 60% 2.69 ----- ----- ----- >=85%

6 160% 80% 0.65 1.15 2.2 ----- >=85%

8 160% 78% 0.90 1.75 3.0 ----- >=85%

10 160% 73% 1.11 2.20 ----- ----- >=85%

12 160% 70% 1.30 2.70 ----- ----- >=85%

9 180% 96% 0.70 1.20 1.85 3.50 >=85%

11 180% 95% 0.79 1.30 2.05 3.85 >=85%

14 180% 90% 1.15 1.85 3.10 ----- >=85%

23 180% 80% 1.86 2.87 4.26 ----- >=85%

Wider woven wing elastic

26 210% 111% 0.81 1.46 2.13 ----- >=85%

30 210% 108% 1.11 1.84 2.61 ----- >=85%

40 210% 98% 1.36 2.34 3.45 ----- >=85%

9 200% 120% 0.50 0.95 1.38 2.08 >=85%

11 200% 120% 0.68 1.20 1.65 2.20 >=85%

14 200% 120% 0.79 1.37 1.92 2.71 >=85%

WING ELASTIC with SILICONE

9 215% 143% 0.53 0.97 1.33 1.75 >=85%

11 215% 143% 0.62 1.08 1.55 2.07 >=85%

14 215% 140% 0.75 1.33 1.82 2.39 >=85%

23 215% 112% 1.41 2.33 3.19 - >=85%

Note : values are Including silicon

9 220% 145% 0.59 0.90 1.25 1.90 >=85%

11 220% 145% 0.70 1.15 1.60 2.11 >=85%

14 220% 140% 0.89 1.38 1.85 2.45 >=85%

Note : values are Including silicon

WING SANDWICH ELASTIC

18 200% 98% 1.20 2.02 3.05 ----- >=85%

22 190% 86% 1.85 2.95 4.43 ----- >=85%

28 190% 78% 2.18 3.49 ----- ----- >=85%

MISC. THIN ELASTIC

4 235% 143% 0.14 0.24 0.33 0.47 >=85%

6 235% 147% 0.20 0.33 0.46 0.64 >=85%

9 235% 154% 0.23 0.39 0.54 0.74 >=85%

15 235% 148% 0.41 0.69 0.95 1.28 >=85%

20 240% 148% 0.49 0.90 1.26 1.68 >=85%

25 225% 136% 0.73 1.25 1.72 ---- >=85%

30 225% 125% 0.85 1.42 2.02 ---- >=85%

4 240% 148% 0.13 0.23 0.33 0.49 >=85%

6 240% 145% 0.19 0.35 0.50 0.73 >=85%

9 240% 142% 0.29 0.53 0.75 1.10 >=85%

H&E TAPE FOR CORSET

No. of H&E Total length in cm

EX. calculation for 6 eyes

Ref. supplier : Luen Fat

MATERIAL REFERENCE CUTTING

Ref. art no : B6 Width : 5 mm Thickness : Approx. 1.25 mm

Ref. art no : B13 Width : 4.8 mm Thickness : Approx. 1 mm

MATERIAL REFERENCE CUTTING