TVET CERTIFICATE IV IN AUTO ELECTRICITY AND ELECTRONICS SYSTEM

IGNITION SYSTEM REPAIRING

AEEIR401 Repair ignition system

Credits: 10 Learning hours:

100
Sector: Technical services

Sub-sector: Automobile

Module Note Issue date: November, 2020

Purpose statement

This module will allow the learner to describe vehicle ignition system, conduct diagnosis of ignition system and its
results will enable the learner to repair or replace ignition system components.

The knowledge gained from this module will enable the learner to perform testing activities of ignition system while
responding to work needs.

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Table of Contents
Elements of competence and performance criteria Page No.
Learning Unit Performance Criteria
3
1. Describe ignition system 1.1. Proper identification of ignition system types

1.2. Proper description of ignition system types

1.3. Appropriate test of ignition components

17
2. Repair ignition system 2.1. Adequate selection of tools, materials and
components equipment

2.2. Proper dismounting of ignition components

2.3. Methodical repair and replacement of ignition

system components

2.4. Proper performance of ignition timing

29
3. Test ignition system 3.1. Adequate selection of tools, materials and
equipment

3.2. Proper test of ignition delivery

3.3. Appropriate Checking general states of cables

Total number of pages: 43

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Learning Unit 1 – Describe ignition system
LO 1.1 –Identify ignition system types

 Content/Topic 1 Fundamental of ignition system

Definition of ignition system

An ignition system generates a spark or heats an electrode to a high temperature to ignite a fuel-air
mixture in spark ignition internal combustion engines, oil-fired and gas-fired boilers, rocket engines, etc.
The widest application for spark ignition internal combustion engines is in petrol (gasoline) road vehicles
such as cars and motorcycles

Ignition system Components

Ignition system types

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This circuit, called the ignition system circuit. There are about 4 types of ignition on the vehicle, among
others;

 Conventional ignition system

 Ignition system transistor (electronic)
 CDI(Capacitor discharge ignition) ignition system (Motorcycle)
 DLI (Distributor less ignition) system

1. Conventional Ignition System

Conventional Ignition System

Conventional ignition system is a series of ignition with its performance mechanically. Why is it called
mechanically? Because in the case of changing the voltage done mechanically by deciding the primary
current coil using pont contact.
This point contact is also called as platinum because the end of this point made from platinum. Platinum,
normally connected to the mass, but if the platinum foot exposed to the cam then the contact will be
disconnected. This breaking of platinum contact used to increase the primary stress by means of
electromagnetic induction.(James E, 2006)

In addition, to split the spark where live also used mechanical systems using the help of rotor and
distributor. This distributor connected to the crankshaft so that when the distributor rotor rotates then the
induced voltage distributed to all spark plugs as per the fairing order.

Although using a mechanical system, conventional ignition type is the basis of the creation of a modern
ignition system. Currently, it is very rare to find cars with this system because in terms of electrical
efficiency lost to modern ignition.

2. Ignition System Transistor

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 Ignition System with Transistor

The ignition system of a transistor becomes an ignition scheme with an electronic component, but there
are still some mechanical components. The transistor ignition system is an electrical circuit that uses a
transistor as the primary current circuit breaker.

In principle, the system is the same as a conventional system except that the output of the coil primer coil
connected to a transistor as an electronic switch. As for dividing the voltage, distributor components are
still provided.

There are two kinds of ignition

ie transistors
 The semi-transistor type, still using the point contact that used as the base current breaker on the
leg of the transistor.
 The fully transistor type, full transistor type uses a signal generator that replaces the contact point.
The use of this signal generator does not cause friction because it works magnetically.
3. CDI ignition system

CDI ignition system

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  The next ignition system is more applied to motorcycles. CDI Ignition uses a capacitor that can store
and expel all current quickly.
 The way CDI works starts when the magnet produces a current when the engine crank spins. The
resulting current in the form of AC will be channeled into the capacitor unit so that its current can
absorbed. On the other hand there is a pulser that will decide the ignition timing based on
magnetism.
When the pulsar sends a trigger the capacitor will discharge the entire electric current to the
primary coil. Inside the coil the electric voltage magnified again so as to fire the spark plug. More
details can you refer to the workings of CDI motor ignition.(James E, 2006)

4. DLI ignition system

DLI stands for less ignition distributor. As the name implies, this system does not use a distributor part. So,
how is its performance?

DLI is widely applied to modern cars, usually using dual coil pack or single coil pack. In other words, every
spark plug served by a coil, so one coil will only increase the voltage for one spark plug.

In this case, we have an example, on a 4-cylinder engine there are 4 inputs each of which will give
commands when the coil will work. This input generated by ECM with the help of CKP, CMP and some
other sensors.

In single coil pack type, the exist of spark plug wires is also eliminated because the coil output will be
directly channeled through per to the spark plug, surely this increases the efficiency of electrical energy
distribution. To learn the DLI you can see how the DLI ignition works

Similarly complete articles and details about the kinds of ignition systems on cars and motorcycles,
hopefully can add our insight and useful for us all.
Purpose of ignition system
The purpose of the ignition system is to generate a very high volt age from the car's 12 volt battery, and to
send this to each sparkplug in turn, igniting the fuel-air mixture in the engine 's combustion chambers .

The coil is the component that produces this high voltage. It is an electromagnetic device that converts the
low-tension (LT) current from the battery to high-tension (HT) current each time the distributor contact-
breaker points open. The distributor unit consists of a metal bowl containing a central shaft, which is usually
driven directly by the camshaft or, sometimes, by the crankshaft. The bowl houses the contact-breaker
points, rotor arm, and a device for altering the ignition timing. It also carries the distributor cap.(James E,
2006)

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LO 1.2 – Describe ignition types and components

 Content/Topic 1 Ignition system design

Ignition distributor
A distributor is an enclosed rotating shaft used in spark-ignition internal combustion engines that have
mechanically-timed ignition. The distributor's main function is to route secondary, or high
voltage, current from the ignition coil to the spark plugs in the correct firing order, and for the correct
amount of time. Except in magneto systems and many modern computer controlled engines that use crank
angle/position sensors, the distributor also houses a mechanical or inductive breaker switch to open and
close the ignition coil's primary circuit.
The first reliable battery operated ignition was developed by Dayton Engineering Laboratories Co. (Delco)
and introduced in the 1910 Cadillac. This ignition was developed by Charles Kettering and was considered a
wonder in its day. Atwater Kent invented his Unisparker ignition system about this time in competition
with the Delco system.[1] By the end of the 20th century mechanical ignitions were disappearing
from automotive applications in favor of inductive or capacitive electronic ignitions fully controlled
by engine control units (ECU), rather than directly timed to the engine's crankshaft speed.
The distributor cap is the cover that protects the distributor's internal parts and holds the contacts
between internal rotor and the spark plug wires.
The distributor cap has one post for each cylinder, and in points ignition systems there is a central post for
the current from the ignition coil coming into the distributor. There are some exceptions however, as some
engines (many Alfa Romeo cars, some 1980s Nissans) have two spark plugs per cylinder, so there are two
leads coming out of the distributor per cylinder. Another implementation is the wasted spark system,
where a single contact serves two leads, but in that case each lead connects one cylinder. In General
Motors high energy ignition (HEI) systems there is no central post and the ignition coil sits on top of the
distributor. Some Toyota and Honda engines also have their coil within the distributor cap. On the inside of
the cap there is a terminal that corresponds to each post, and the plug terminals are arranged around the
circumference of the cap according to the firing order in order to send the secondary voltage to the proper
spark plug at the right time. (Halderman, 2013)

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 Ignition distributor

Battery

An automotive battery is a rechargeable battery that is used to start a motor vehicle. Its main purpose is
to provide electric current to the electricity-powered starting motor, which in turn starts the chemically-
powered internal combustion engine that actually propels the vehicle. Once the engine is running, power
for the car's electrical systems is still supplied by the battery, with the alternator charging the battery as
demands increase or decrease.

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Ignition coil
Materials
Formerly, ignition coils were made with varnish and paper insulated high-voltage windings, inserted into a
drawn-steel can and filled with oil or asphalt for insulation and moisture protection. Coils on modern
automobiles are cast in filled epoxy resins which penetrate any voids within the winding.
A modern single-spark system has one coil per spark plug. To prevent premature sparking at the start of
the primary pulse, a diode or secondary spark gap is installed in the coil to block the reverse pulse that
would otherwise form.In a coil meant for a wasted spark system, the secondary winding has two terminals
isolated from the primary, and each terminal connects to a spark plug. With this system, no extra diode is
needed since there would be no fuel-air mixture present at the inactive spark plug.
In a low-inductance coil, fewer primary turns are used, so primary current is higher. This is not compatible
with the capacity of mechanical breaker points, so solid-state switching is used. (Halderman, 2013)

ignition coil

Ignition control module

The Ignition Control Module is a part of the ignition system. It manages the electrical current that is fed to
the ignition coil in order for it to generate the right amount of voltage for the spark-plug to ignite the fuel
mixture. The ignition control module receives its signal from the magnetic pulse generator in the
distributor. The magnetic pulse generator generates a signal that is synchronized with the speed of the
engine and the position of the crankshaft. This digital pulse is, therefore, essentially a switching signal that
ignition coil uses to control the voltage input to the ignition coil.

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The ignition control module is usually mounted on the top of the engine and is heavily insulated to protect
it from the heat. When the engine turns on, the engine control unit (ECU) sends a signal to the ignition
control module. The ignition control module then continues to interact with the ECU signals. The ECU
computes the ignition timing based on the inputs received from the engine sensors, and passes the timing
signal to the ignition control module. In turn, the ignition control module sends the input to the ignition
coil to fire it up. In the wasted-spark system, the ignition control module controls more than one ignition
coil.
If your vehicle starts to buck and shake when you accelerate or slows down when you press the accelerator
pedal, it could indicate a fault in the ignition control module. Additionally, your vehicle failure to start
when you turn the ignition key could also imply a failed ignition control module. In such cases, you should
replace the ignition control module at the earliest to prevent any further damage to your vehicle.
(Halderman, 2013)

● Content/Topic 2 Types of ignition system

There are two main types of ignition system:
1. Conventional ignition system
2. Electronic ignition systems:
 transistorized ignition,
 distributorless ignition

● Content/Topic 3 operating principles

1. Conventional ignition system

In the mid-1980s, most ignition systems were fitted with contact points. The contact points switch the
primary current on and off. Contact points are controlled by the interrupter cam.

1 battery 5 spark plug

2 ignition lock 6 contact points
3 ignition coil 7 condenser
3a primary coil 8 suppression adjuster
3b secondary coil 9 rotor
4 distributor 10 distributor shaft
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11 ignition coil cable 14 central connection
12 spark plug cable distributor cap
13 interrupter cam 15 connection spark plug Cable

The coil is the component that produces this high voltage. It is an electromagnetic device that converts the
low-tension (LT) current from the battery to high-tension (HT) current each time the distributor contact-
breaker points open. The distributor unit consists of a metal bowl containing a central shaft, which is
usually driven directly by the camshaft or, sometimes, by the crankshaft.
The bowl houses the contact-breaker points, rotor arm, and a device for altering the ignition timing . It also
arries the distributor cap . Distributing the current
The distributor cap is made of nonconductive plastic, and the current is fed to its central electrode by the
HT lead from the centre of the coil. Inside the cap there are more electrodes often called segments to
which the sparkplug leads are connected, one per cylinder.
The rotor arm is fitted on top of the central shaft, and connects to the central electrode by means of a
metal spring or spring-loaded brush in the top of the distributor cap.
The current enters the cap through the central electrode, passes to the centre of the rotor arm through the
brush, and is distributed to each plug as the rotor arm revolves. As the rotor arm approaches a segment,
the contact-breaker points open and HT current passes through the rotor arm to the appropriate sparkplug
lead.

The contact-breaker points are mounted inside the distributor. They act as a switch, in synchronisation
with the engine, that cuts off and reconnects the 12 volt low-tension (LT) circuit to the coil.
The points are opened by cams on the central shaft, and are closed again by a spring arm on the moving
contact.
With the points closed, LT current flows from the battery to the primary windings in the coil, and then to
earth through the points. When the points open, the magnetic field in the primary winding collapses and
high-tension (HT) current is induced in the secondary windings.

This current is transferred to the sparkplugs through the distributor cap.

On a four-cylinder engine there are four cams. With each full rotation of the shaft the points open four
times. Six-cylinder engines have six cams and six electrodes in the cap.
The position of the points and the distributor's body in relation to the central shaft can be adjusted
manually.

This alters the timing of the spark to obtain an exact setting (see How engine timing works ).
Further changes occur automatically as the engine speed varies according to the throttle opening.
In some modern ignition systems, micro-electronics ensure the optimum ignition timing for all engine
speeds and engine load conditions (see How engine timing works ).

The sparkplugs are screwed into the combustion chambers in the cylinder head . HT current passes from
each segment on the distributor cap down the plug leads to the plug caps.

It then passes down the central electrode, which is insulated along its length, to the nose of the plug. A
side electrode connected to the plug body protrudes just below the central one, with the gap between the
two usually set from 0.025 in. (0.6 mm) to 0.035 in. (0.9 mm).

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 Ignition advance
2.
Transistorized ignition system Transistorized ignition system with contact breaker (transistor assist
breaker)
This system incorporates a normal mechanical breaker, which drive a transistor to control the current in
primary circuit. Since a very small breaker current is used, erosion contact is eliminated so that good coil
output is maintained. Also is provides accurate spark timing for a much long period. When a long inductive
coil and barest resistor are used with this system, excessive contact arcing produced by high primary
current is also eliminated. The basic principle of a breaker –triggered inductive, semiconductor ignition
system is illustrated in fig where transistor works as of the contact breaker, by acting as

Transistorized ignition system with contact breaker

A power switches to make and break the primary circuit. Transistor performs as a relay .which is operated by
the current supplied by a com operate control switch and thereby called as breaker t rigger
As small control current through the emitter of the transistor when the contact is closed condition. This
switches on the –emitter circuit of transistor and allows full current through the primary circuit to energize
the coil. The flow of the current at this stage. In the control circuit and transistor base is governed by the
total and the relative value of resistor R and R2 these resistor are chosen to provide control current of
about .03A, which is sufficient to provide a self-cleaning action contact surfaces without overloading the
breaker when spark is required .The com opens the contact to interrupt the base circuit, which causes the
transistor to switch off, with a sudden opening of the primary circuit a high voltage is induced into the
secondary which produces a spark at the plug.
This sequence is repeated to provide the required number of sparks for each revolution of cam the T.A.C
arrangement provide a quicker break of a circuit compared with a non-transistorized system and as a result,
a more rapid collapsed the magnetic flux takes place. , consequently a high T.H secondary voltage is obtained
the components of this syste4m are similar to those with used with a conventional system except the extra
control module containing the power transistor.(Erjavec, 2010)

Transistorised ignition system with inductive type pulse generator

In transistor coil ignition system contact breaker were replaced by ignition trigger box.
These originally consisted essentially for a relative simple transistor circuit which was activated by an
inductive pulse generator or effect sensor. Induction type generator housed in a distributor to activate the
transistor circuit and thus to trigger ignition(Erjavec, 2010)

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 Transistorized ignition system with inductive type pulsegeneretor
Induction pulse generator
Induction pulse generator housed in a distributor to activate the transistor circuit the thus to trigger the
ignition .Inductive pulse generator generates an alternating voltage signal according to the alternator
principle.

Induction pulse generator

The signal generated by the sensor is transferred the terminals o and to terminal 7 and 31d on the trigger
box and used to activate the transistor.
Transistorised ignition with hall effect.
On a Hall Effect sensor housed in a distributor to activate the transistor circuit and thus the trigger ignition.
The hall voltage generated by a hall effect sensor UH is converted into a generator signal UG and used to
concrete the transistor via the terminals 0 ,+ and – to terminal 7 ,8h and 31d.

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 transistorized ignition with hall effect.
Hall generator distributor with diaphragm rotor
This consists of the hall generator, the permanent magnet and the integrated circuit, which amplifies and
convert the hall voltage into a square wave, signal (sensor voltage Ug) the distributor rotor is designed as a
diaphragm rotor which moves into the air gag between the hall Ic and the magnetic barriers .If a
diaphragm slides between the hall Ic and the permanent magnet, the magnet field is shielded and the hall
voltage UH is zero

transistorized ignition with hall effect.

Advantages of electronic ignition system

 Ignition point is always correct.
 Adaptations to all conditions.
 Exchange of the information with other electronic unit
 Self-diagnosis.
 The ignition point is fixed.
 The engine speed can be very high.
 An ignition voltage is permanently high.

2.2.The distributor less ignition

The distributor less system consists of three main components:
1. The electronic module (ECU)
2. A crankshaft position sensor
3 The ignition coil.

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In many systems, a manifold absolute pressure is integrated in the module .The module function in much
the same way as has been described previously described electronic spark advance system.
The crankshaft position sensor is similarly in operation to the one described in the previous section it again
reluctance sensor and is positioned against the front of the flywheel or against a reflector wheel just
behind the front crankshaft pulley , the tooth pattern consist of 35 teeth .

Single spark ignition coils

Each individual cylinder has its owner ignition coil with primary and secondary winding .The coils are
usually positioned directly on the spark plugs.
The ignition coils too have connection to the terminals one (ignition switch) terminal15 (power supply) and
terminal 4 (spark plug) for ignition coils with in additionally fourth connection. This is labelled gas terminal
4B it is used to monitor misfire terminal 4 is then renamed terminal 4a.

single sparks ignition coil

An ignition spark is triggered at low voltage side by power module with distribution logic. This connects
the primary current of ignition coil in question, based on the reference mark signal from the crankshaft a d
camshaft which is clearly specifies which cylinder is at the ignition TDC
Due to their electrical design, these ignition coils very quickly generated a magnetic field. This can .lead to
undesired spark over already at the end of the intake stroke or at the start of compression stroke during
magnetic field generation with the help of the diode cascade ( group of several diodes ) connect in the
secondary circuit , this spark over can be suppressed . The diode blocked it, as the current t flow generated
by the switch on the induction flows in the opposite direction to the current flow generated by the switch
off induction
Dual spark ignition coils
These can only be used for engine with an even number of cylinders. Two spark plug in each case are
supplied with high voltage by them .Dual spark ignition coils have secondary and the primary winding, each
with two connection for the primary winding, this the terminal 15 (power supply) and terminal1,
(connection to the ignition unit) on the secondary circuit, one spark plug is connected to each of the two
output.(James E, 2006)

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 Dual spark ignition coils

With each crankshaft revolution, these ignition coils generated one ignition spark each at the same time at
two spark plugs. For engine with the ignition sequence 1-3 -4 -2 one spark , example in cylinder 1 starts
combustion at the end of compression stroke ( main spark ) .the other spark ( support spark ) deflagrates
at the end of the exhaust stroke in cylinder4 ,which moved through 360 degree CA after one revolution of
the crankshaft cylinder 4is ignited while the supported spark in cylinder1 the deflagrated . These can see in
the secondary Ocilla gram.
Here you can see that the ignition voltage at the support spark is significantly low than at the main spark. T
he reason for this is that the end of compression ( main spark ) ,significantly more insulated gas molecules
are between the electrode of the spark plug than in the exhaust stroke ( supported spark) therefore , a
high voltage is required to generate the ignition s[park .You can also see that the voltage from
Cylinder1 and cylinder4 are in opposite direction in the secondary winding means that the ignition sparks
in one of the spark plug jumps from the center the center electrode to the earth electrode, at the other
spark plug it jumps from the electrode to center electrode. Depending on the design of the coil, measures
to suppress spark formation through switch on induction may require for these ignition systems.

With these ignition system 2spark plugs are used for each cylinder when using dual spark ignition coils ,the
spark plug connected to an ignition coil ignite in two different cylinders whose ignition points are displaced
by 360 degree CA with the ignition sequence 1-3-4-2 for example ignition coil 1 and ignition coil 4 each
ignite a main spark in cylinder 1 and the support spark in cylinder 4 360 degree CA later both ignition coils
generate the sparks in cylinder 4 and support sparks in cylinder 1 .In the process the two ignition coils can
be activated displaced by 3 degree – 15 degree depending on the load and rotation speed .
Dual ignition load to a cleaner and faster combustion and thus to fewer harmful exhaust gases

Sensors and input informations

The engine sensors check various operating conditions and send electrical data representing these
conditions to the computer .The computer can then analyze the data and change ignition timing for
maximum engine efficiency.

Sensors that I influence ignition timing include:

 crankshaft position sensor: reports engine rpm to the computer
 Cam shaft [position sensor: tells the computer which cylinder on its power stroke
 Manifold absolute pressure sensor: measures engine manifold vacuum, an indicator of load
 Knock sensor: allows the computer to retard timing when the engine pings or knock
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  Throttle position sensor: Notes the position of the throttle
 Engine coolant temperature sensor: measures the operating temperature of the engine

The computer receives input signals (different current or v voltage levels) from these sensors .It is
programmed (preset) to adjust ignition timing to meet different engine conditions .The computer may be
mounted on the air cleaner, on the fender inner panel under the dash, or under the seat.

LO 1.3 – Test ignition system components

● Content/Topic 1 Test sparks strength

The proper method to check for spark is with a spark tester. It resembles a spark plug but has a sunken
center electrode that simulates a load on the coil. Holding the plug wire and seeing if a spark jumps to
ground is inconclusive. The spark is arcing in atmospheric pressure

Spark plug are to be replaced at regular internal according to the manufacture specification (usually
after 60.000km……..100,000km)
The spark plug must be replaced when the engine head is cold , when the engine is hot these are risk
that the spark plug will shrink
Spark plug condition must be checked for each cylinder in order to drop a conclusion about any faulty
that are represented
When rinsing spark plugs the electrode gap must be checked and adjusted if necessary with spark plug gap
gouge

● Content/Topic 2 Test ignition coil

Open circuit

Materials Needed

 Basic set of hand tools (for removal of ignition coil)

 Digital multimeter

Step 1: Research the specifications. Find out what the correct resistance reading of the ignition coils
should be for your vehicle.

These specifications can usually be found in the factory service manual for the vehicle, and are usually
specified as a range, measured in “ohms” (symbol: Ω).

Step 2: Locate the ignition coil, or coils, on your vehicle. These are usually located right on the engine,
either bolted directly to the spark plugs or mounted remotely somewhere on top of the engine.

If necessary, remove any plastic covers that may be covering the ignition coils.

Step 3: Disconnect the wiring harness for the ignition coils. Remove them using your hand tools.

Ignition coils are usually very simple to remove, often times only held in by one or two bolts.

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Step 4: Test the ignition coil’s primary ignition circuit. Ignition coils have two circuits that need to be
checked: the primary and secondary ignition circuit.

Connect the positive and negative leads of your multimeter to the positive and negative terminals of your
ignition coil. On some coils, the terminals will be explicitly marked positive and negative; others will simply
have the two pins or terminals that are located at the connector.

Most ignition coils should have a primary resistance falling somewhere between 0.4 and 2 ohms; however,
refer to your manufacturer's specifications for the correct reading. If a reading of zero is displayed, that
signifies that the ignition coil has shorted internally in the primary windings and needs to be replaced. A
reading over the specification signals that the ignition coil is open, which would also indicate a need to
replace the coil. (James E, 2006)

Step 5: Test the secondary circuit of the ignition coil. Connect your multimeter to the positive terminal or
pin of your coil, and to the high output terminal that goes to the spark plug.

Most ignition coils should have a secondary resistance falling somewhere between 6,000 to 10,000
ohms;however, refer to manufacturer specifications for the correct range. If a reading of zero is displayed,
that signifies that the coil has short circuited and needs to be replaced, while an excessive reading signifies
that the coil is open, and also needs to be replaced.

Step 6: Repeat the procedure as needed. Follow Step 4 and Step 5 for testing each individual coil if your
vehicle has more than one. Ensure that all of the ignition coils are operating correctly.

Step 7: Reinstall the ignition coils, after replacing them as needed. Once all of the ignition coils have been
tested, replace any faulty coils, and reinstall the rest of them on the vehicle.

Control circuit
Resistance check of the primary and secondary windings; primary:1.5Ω to 3Ω secondary 5Ω to 10kΩ

Control circuit testing

● Content /Topic3 Visual inspection

Electrode terminal wear

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The plug will reveal that the side electrode has been burned away from running too hot. The plug is firing
too soon, not enough fuel is present in the air/fuel mixture or there isn’t enough fuel in the combustion
chamber for a sound combustion event. Check your fuel injection and timing. Take quick action, because a
plug in this condition is just short of falling completely apart.

Carbon fouled
If your plug tip and side electrode are blackened, they have been running with too much fuel (or possibly
too cool from a stuck-open thermostat). Other sources of the problem may include bad wiring or leaking
injectors; in some cases the vehicle has been driven at too slow a speed for extended periods of time. The
combustion process is not being allowed to have its natural burning-off, or cleaning, effect.

Normal, but with red coating

The red coating is a result of the additives in lower-quality unleaded fuel and will be visible on the plug’s
ceramic insulation. The red coating is not an indication of any engine problems.

Fuel fouled
Fuel-fouled plugs may have a shiny coating on the tip and side electrode, which may indicate a too-rich fuel
mixture, ignition problems or a plug heat range that’s set too low. First, check to make sure your spark
plugs have a heat range that is compatible with your engine (especially if you’ve made performance
modifications). This information is available in your vehicle owner’s manual. To resolve the too-rich fuel
mixture, have the fuel injection (or carburetor) adjusted to correct the air/fuel
mix.(https://www.planetanalog.com/automotive-ignition-systems/)

Spark plug insulator condition

A mechanically damaged plug will look as if it’s been beaten to death by its piston, an indication that it
extended too far down into the combustion chamber.
The two most common spark plug problems are hot fouling and cold fouling. The “too hot” category
includes the resignation and detonation damage. Some performance improvements may be the cause for
this type of plug damage. If your vehicle has performance upgrades such as a high-output coil, ignition,
exhaust or cams, these can alter the engine’s recommended plug heat range, so you should consider using
a spark plug with a heat range lower than the manufacturer’s recommendations.
A few of the symptoms indicated by your spark plugs have simple fixes–others require the hands and
expertise of a qualified mechanic. Either way, the main advantage to checking out your spark plugs is for a
quick diagnostic tool that gives you a fairly good idea of how well your engine is performing.

Spark plugs (HT)cable damage

The ignition cables, also known as “spark plug wires” are part of the ignition system. They transfer the
spark from the distributor or ignition coil to spark plugs that ignite the air-fuel mixture, starting the engine.
Over time, the cables can get weak and break down. This will make it harder for the spark to reach the
engine cylinders, resulting in engine misfires. The car may not start at all. If one of the spark plugs has gone
bad, the car will still start and run, but it will run poorly.

Distributor rotor crack

Visual inspection for signs of tracking (conducting lines) and contamination.

Ignition coil cracks

A car usually runs smoothly, unfortunately, sometimes it does not. When a car runs rough, a variety of
problems may be caused by a cracked ignition coil. Diagnosing a bad coil may appear daunting, but

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narrowing down the problem is easy, if you know what to look for. By understanding the effects of a
bad ignition coil, you will be able to determine if the coil is bad, or if the problem is elsewhere.

● Content /Topic4 Measure the air gap

Spark plug

Learn your vehicle's gap specifications. Whether you're shopping for new plugs, you just bought new plugs
that you want to check before installing, or you want to check the function of your current set of spark
plugs, you need to learn the appropriate gap between the two electrodes on the end of each plug.
 Each vehicle's measurement will be different, though most are generally somewhere between
0.028-.06 inch. You can either look in your owner's manual or go to the auto parts store and have
them look it up for you.
 Modified engines require smaller gap settings to account for the amount of power you're putting
through the engine. General rule of thumb: the more power, the smaller the gap.

Measure the air gap

Select an appropriate gap tool. There are several varieties of tools used to measure the gaps of spark
plugs, some of which are more appropriate for more modern plugs, which sometimes feature delicate
precious metals. Most measuring tools will also feature a flat edge typically used for bending the bottom
electrode on the spark plug to adjust the gap slightly.[1]

 A coin-style gap measure is usually the cheapest option, and works by running the edge of the
"coin" through the gap until you reach a point where it stops. The edge is marked like a ruler,
designating the thickness of the edge at that point. This is a good tool for older plugs you want to
check the efficacy of, but can also inadvertently widen the gaps as you use it.

 A wire coin gap works essentially the same way as the regular coin-style gap, but features different
wire measures of varying lengths on the edge around the coin.

 A blade-style feeler gauge is an effective and versatile tool. Built like a pocket-knife, this gauge
features different blades of varying widths, some with wire on the end and some without, placed
in the gap to check the spacing of the electrodes. You can also use multiple blades to measure
larger gaps. These are effective to use while adjusting.

Clean the spark plug. If you've just pulled it out of the box, it should be in pretty good shape, but if you're
checking a plug that you've been using in your car it's a good idea to clean it off a little with a clean cloth.
Spark plugs can build up some whitish soot on the contact points, so you'll want to make sure they're

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somewhat clean to get the most accurate reading.[2]

 You can use a little bit of quick-drying (90%) alcohol on the contact points to clean them off if
they're especially dirty.[3] Lots of build-up or any blackening on the contact points might be a sign
of a plug that's outlasted its prime, however. If they're especially dirty, you might consider buying
new ones.

Measure the gap by passing the tool through the electrodes. Place the appropriate blade or wire on your
gap tool between the electrode tips of the plug, or pass the coin through the electrodes to determine the
measurement.

Contact break
Turn the crankshaft pulley in the direction of the engines normal rotation with a spanner or socket wrench,
until the contact heel is on the tip of one of the distributor cam lobes , so that the contact-breaker points
are fully open.
Alternatively, put the car in top gear and push it forwards a short distance until the point open.
Removing the sparkplugs eases the job of turning the engine by relieving the pressure in the cylinders .

● Content /Topic5 Diagnosis with scanner tool

Found Diagnostic Trouble Codes

Check Engine Light On? That means the onboard diagnostic system on your vehicle has detected a problem
that could increase emissions. When this happens, the OBD II system sets one or more diagnostic trouble
codes that correspond to the problem detected. To read the codes, you will have to plug a scan tool or
code reader into the 16-pin OBD II diagnostic connector, which is usually located under the dash near the
steering column. The tool will then display the code or codes that have turned on the Check Engine Light.

To read codes, you need the proper scan tool. On older (pre-1996) vehicles, an OBD I scan tool is required.
Since connectors were not standardized, the scan tool must have the proper adapter for the vehicle's
diagnostic connector (since they were all different). On 1996 and newer vehicles is OBD II, the connectors
are all the same - but the software (and hardware) that is required to read the codes can vary depending
on the year, make and model of your vehicle. (Erjavec, 2010)

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HOW TO READ DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES
1. Locate the 16-pin OBD II diagnostic connector (usually under the dash near the steering
column). Note: On some vehicles, it may be necessary to remove a knee bolster panel or other panel to
find the connector. On some the connector may be located in the center console or someplace else. If you
cannot locate the OBD II diagnostic connector, refer to your vehicle owner’s manual.

2. Plug in your code reader or scan tool.

3. Turn the ignition ON, but do not start the engine. This is usually necessary so the scan tool can
communicate with your car's computer.

4. Depending on the scan tool you are using, push the READ CODES button or select the READ CODES
option on the tool menu. Note: some scan tools do not automatically recognize the year, make and mode
of your vehicle. You will first have to enter this information before the scan tool will read any fault codes.

5. Your scan tool should display any diagnostic fault codes that are present in numerical order. WRITE
DOWN THE CODES! This is important for later reference. If your tool does not also display the definition of
the code, Click Here to look up the definition of the code(s).

6. You can no safety clear (erase) the codes by pressing the CLEAR CODES button or choosing the erase
code option on the scan tool menu.

7. VERY IMPORTANT: Most codes DO NOT tell you what part to replace, only that a problem has occurred
in a particular sensor circuit or system. Further diagnostics will usually be necessary to diagnose the faulty
part that needs to be replaced to fix your problem.

8. Clearing the codes does NOT make the problem go away. If the problem is still present, sooner or later
the Check Engine Light will come back on the the same code(s) will reset.

Clear faults code

In most of the first generation onboard diagnostic systems prior to OBD II, disconnecting the computer's
power source or disconnecting a battery cable could erase fault codes. The loss of voltage wiped out the
computer's temporary memory causing the Check Engine light to magically go out. But as soon as the
original problem reoccurred, the code(s) would be reset and the light would come back on.

In most newer computer systems, fault codes are stored in a "nonvolatile" memory that is not lost if the
battery is disconnected. The codes remain intact until they are cleared using a scan tool (which few
motorists own). What's more, disconnecting the battery or computer's power supply can have undesirable
consequences because it causes the loss of electronic presets in the radio and climate control system, as
well as the engine computer's "learned" memory - the adjustments that are made over time to
compensate for engine wear and driving habits. On some vehicles where the computer also regulates the
electronic transmission, the computer may have to be put through a special learning procedure to relearn
the proper operation of the transmission if power has been lost! (Erjavec, 2010)

Actuation test

The diagnostic codes that are required by law on all OBD II systems are "generic" in the sense that all
vehicle manufacturers use the same common code list and the same 16-pin diagnostic connector. Thus, a
P0301 misfire code on a Ford means the same thing on a Chevy, Chrysler, Toyota or Mercedes. But each

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vehicle manufacturers also have the freedom to add their own "enhanced" codes to provide even more
detailed information about various faults. Enhanced codes also cover non-emission related failures that
occur outside the engine control system. These include ABS codes, HVAC codes, airbag codes and other
body and electrical codes.

The "generic" codes that are common to all vehicle manufacturers can be accessed using any basic scan
tool that is OBD II compliant. An older scan tool desined for OBD I vehicles cannot read OBD II fault codes
unless is has been updated with new software. Even then, many ofthese tools do not have the proper
hardware for reading OBD II codes. The same applies to OBD II scan tools that are not CAN-compliant.
Around 2006, most vehicles got controller area network (CAN) electrical systems that require different
scan tool hardware and software to read. So make sure the scan tool you are attempting to use to read
diagnostic codes is the correct one for your vehicle.

● Content /Topic 6 Programing

Control modules
Speed sensor signal is sent to the ICM.
Some ICM’s analyze inputs from other sensors to fine tune ignition timing.
The ICM housing offers high protection against moisture, dust, and oil.
Typical ICM locations are: in or on the side of the distributor, or in the engine compartment. ICM
It is used to determine when the ignition coil should be energized.
This is 'base' ignition timing.

Ignition Control Module Operation

Ignition Control Module Operation

The ICM contains the circuits shown in the diagram below.

The pulse shaping circuit converts incoming waveforms into a digital format.
The dwell control circuit alters the dwell period.
The amplifier circuit boosts the amplitude of incoming signals.
The driver circuit switches the coil primary winding on and off. Next >
The power supply circuit provides a regulated voltage supply.

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Keys
Electronic keys were first introduced in the 1990s as an extra means of convenience and s ecurity
for vehicles. Also known as chip keys and transponder keys, these must be programmed to an
individual vehicle before they can be used to start the car's ignition. Only the transponder key will
activate your car, and the key can only be programmed from the car itself. You can program a key
in about 30 minutes.

Enter your vehicle with the key you want to program and insert the key into the ignition.

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Step 2

Turn the key to the "On" position and leave it there for 10 minutes and 30 seconds.
Step 3
Turn the key to the "Off" position within 45 seconds of finishing step 2, and then turn it back to the "On"
position for another 10 minutes and 30 seconds.
Step 4
Turn the key "Off" again within 45 seconds, and then "On" again for another 10 minutes and 30 seconds.
Turn the key "Off" and then back "On." The programming should be completed and the key ready to use.

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Learning Unit 2 – Repair ignition system components

LO 2.1 – Select tools, materials and equipment

● Content/Topic 1 Tools

Power tools

While many mechanics will take an air-powered wrench any time of the day, battery-
powered wrenches are a great solution for automotive DIYers working in the home garage. Milwaukee's
2454-22 3/8 Impact Wrench is one such power tool that gets a lot done around most automotive parts.

Measuring tools

Many cars and parts are meant to have at least some level of tolerance when installing or adjusting them.
But if you want to reach the top of the mechanical mountain, then you need everything to be accurate
down to the nth degree. measuring tools give you exact readings of everything on a car so you know
whether it's where it needs to be. Get the tools that separate weekend warriors from championship auto
racing mechanics.(Erjavec, 2010)

Examples:
 Tape Measure. A well-worn tape measure signifies a builder who takes their work seriously. ...
 Speed Square. A speed square can be found on the hip of carpenters and DIYers everywhere. ...
 Protractor. ...

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  Mechanical Carpenter's Pencil. ...
 Laser Measure.

Hand tools
Select hand tools like
 Bit Drivers.
 Chisels.
 Files.
 GearRatchet.
 Hammers.
 Hex Keys.
 Lockout Tools.
 Master Tool Sets.

● Content/Topic 2 Materials

Grease
Greases are applied to mechanisms that can be lubricated only infrequently and where a lubricating oil
would not stay in position. They also act as sealants to prevent ingress of water and incompressible
materials. Grease-lubricated bearings have greater frictional characteristics because of their high viscosity.

Lubricants
To lubricate each part of the bearing, and to reduce friction and wear. To carry away heat generated inside
bearing due to friction and other causes. To cover rolling contact surface with the proper oil film in order
to prolong bearing fatigue life. To prevent corrosion and contamination by dirt.

Brushes
Use brushes for cleaning of the electrical arts like coil and distributor

● Content /Topic 3 Equipment

PPE
PPE is equipment that will protect workers against health or safety risks on the job. ... The purpose is to
reduce employee exposure to hazards when engineering and administrative controls are not feasible or
effective to reduce these risks to acceptable levels

Diagnostic machine
For the purpose of diagnosing, monitoring, screening and prognosis, in vitro diagnostic tests are essential
at every step. Diagnosis is the process of finding out if a patient has a specific disease. A medical
professional prescribes a test to make a diagnosis or to exclude possible illness

LO 2.2 – Dismount ignition system components

● Content/Topic 1: Locating ignition system components in vehicles

The basic components in the ignition system are a storage battery, an induction coil, a device to produce
timed high-voltage discharges from the induction coil, a distributor, and a set of spark plugs. The storage
battery provides an electric current of low voltage (usually 12 volts) that is converted by the system to
high voltage (some 40,000 volts). The distributor routes the successive bursts of high-voltage current to
each spark plug in the firing order.

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In older automobile ignition systems, the high-voltage pulses are produced by means of breaker points
controlled by a revolving distributor cam. When the points are in contact they complete an electrical circuit
through the primary winding of the ignition coil. When the points are separated by the cam, the primary
circuit is broken, which creates a high-voltage surge in the secondary windings of the induction coil.
Breaker points have been largely replaced by electronic devices in newer automobiles. Most now use a
magnetic device, called a reluctor, that is operated by the distributor shaft to produce timed electric
signals, which are amplified and used to control the current to the induction coil. These newer ignition
systems are more reliable than the old, permit better control of the engine, and produce higher-voltage
output to the spark plugs.
During the evolution of solid-state ignition systems, there have been many modifications. Some ignition
conversion systems, for example, extend breaker-point life by using transistors, devices in which a small
current in the input (the breaker-point circuit) controls a much larger current in the output (the coil
primary circuit).
Many automobile engines now use a distributor-less ignition system, or direct-ignition system, in which a
high-voltage pulse is directly applied to coils that sit on top of the spark plugs (known as coil-on-plug). The
major components of these systems are a coil pack, an ignition module, a crankshaft reluctor ring, a
magnetic sensor, and an electronic control module. The ignition module controls the primary circuit to the
coils, turning them on and off. The reluctor ring is mounted on the crankshaft so that as the crankshaft
rotates the magnetic sensor is triggered by notches in the reluctor ring. The magnetic sensor provides
position information to the electronic control module, which governs ignition timing.

● Content/Topic 2 Dismounting procedures

Disconnect battery
When removing the old battery, remember to first disconnect the cables from the negative terminal,
which is usually black and has a minus (-) sign then disconnect the cables from the positive terminal, which
is usually red and has a plus (+) sign.

Disconnect cables
The ignition cable, or spark plug wire, carries a signal from your vehicles computer to the spark plugs. This
is crucial to the ignition system.
If the ignition cable, or spark plug wire, carrying this signal fails, the operation of the engine becomes
mistimed and under-powered. One or more cylinders will may misfire or weaken. Another result of the fuel
and air not combusting completely is a buildup of gases and residue in your injectors or cylinders.
Locate the ignition cables. The cables will be routed from the spark plugs on the top of the cylinders to the
distributor cap or module that powers them.
If you are sure you are not going to use the old spark plug cables again, you can use a pair of pliers to help
you remove them. The pliers will most likely damage the boot and terminal of the old wires, so it is not
recommended that you use pliers on any ignition cables you plan to use again. Otherwise, you can do it by
hand or with a spark plug removal tool.

Remove ignition coil

Materials Needed

 Replacement ignition coil

 Screwdrivers
 Service manual specific to your vehicle
 Socket set and ratchet

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  Wrenches

Step 1: Disconnect the battery. Disconnect the negative battery cable to cut power to the vehicle. Use a
socket or wrench to disconnect the clamp bolt holding the cable to the terminal.

Step 2: Locate the ignition coils. Locate the ignition coils on top of the engine. They will be attached to the
engine block or surrounding components.

Step 3: Disconnect and remove the old ignition coil. You will need to disconnect the bolts or screws
attaching the coil to the vehicle. You will also need to disconnect the electrical connectors from the coil.
Determine which connection needs to be broken first depending on your particular make and model
On some vehicles, the electrical connections need to be unscrewed or unplugged first, while on others, you
will need to unbolt the unit before you can disconnect the electrical connectors. You can refer to your
vehicles service manual to determine the proper procedure for your particular car.

 Tip: Ignition coils which run multiple plugs from one coil will have multiple electrical connections to
remove. Be sure to mark or label these connectors for reassembly. You MUST reattach the wires to the
correct corresponding connections on the new coil.
Once the old coil has been disconnected, you can remove it from the vehicle.

Step 4: Install the new ignition coil. Install the new ignition coil in reverse of the order in which you
disconnected the old one.
If you previously disconnected the electrical connectors first, reconnect them last after securing the
mounting bolts or screws.

 Tip: If you had to label multiple electrical connections when removing the old coil, make sure you
are reconnecting these wires to the proper terminals on the new coil.
Step 5: Reconnect the battery. Reattach the negative battery terminal to the car battery to restore power
to the vehicle.
Hand tighten the electrical connection, and then use a socket or wrench to tighten down the terminal bolt.

 Warning: Never over-tighten the bolts. This could cause damage and replacements are often hard
to find. You want to tighten the bolts just enough so that any engine vibration will not loosen them.
Once the replacement is complete, close the hood.

Step 6: Test the new coil. Start the engine with the vehicle in park to test the new ignition coil. If the
vehicle starts and idles normally, you can then test drive the vehicle.
Ignition coil failure can cause one or more cylinders to misfire which can result in driveability issues. By
following the above guide, the stressful stuttering and sluggish nature of a malfunctioning coil can be
resolved with minimal expenses and in a short amount of time. However, if you find yourself in need of
assistance, or you would simply prefer that a professional perform this repair, you can always have one of
the certified technicians at Your Mechanic come to your home or office to replace your ignition coil for
you.

Remove the ignition control module

Step 1

Park your vehicle in a safe place and locate the ignition module.

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Step 2

Look under the dashboard. If yours is mounted here, unplug the module wiring harness. Remove the
mounting bolts using a Phillips screwdriver or ratchet and socket. Replace the old unit with the new
module and install the mounting bolts. Plug the wiring harness.
Step 3

Open the hood and remove the distributor cap using a Phillips screwdriver or ratchet and socket, but do
not disconnect the spark plug wires from the distributor cap. Some ignition modules are mounted inside
the distributor. Unplug the electrical connector from the module and remove the mounting bolts using a
Phillips screwdriver or ratchet and socket. Replace the old module with the new unit and install the
mounting bolts. Replace the distributor cap.
Step 4

Look on one side of the distributor. Some modules are attached to the outside case of the distributor.
Mark the exact mounting location of the distributor base on the engine so you can reinstall the
distributor at the same exact location to avoid disturbing the engine timing. Remove the distributor cap
using a Phillips screwdriver or ratchet and socket, but do not remove the spark plug wires. Remove the
distributor mounting bolts and lift the distributor off the engine compartment. Remove the ignition
module mounting bolts and install the new module in place. Install the distributor on the engine
following the match-mark and install the distributor cap.

Look for the ignition coil and module assembly. Follow the spark plug wires starting at the spark plugs.
The wires connect to the coil and module assembly, which may be mounted on the back of the engine.
You might have to raise the front of your car using a floor jack and safely support it on two jack stands.
Reach under the engine and unplug the coil assembly electrical connectors. Remove the assembly
mounting bolts using a ratchet and socket. Remove the assembly from the engine and remove the coils
using a ratchet and socket. Remove the old ignition module from the base plate and install the new unit.
Install the coils and module assembly on the engine. Plug the electrical connectors and lower the vehicle.

Remove ignition distributor

Materials Needed

 Combination wrenches
 Masking tape
 Permanent marker
 Repair manuals
 Socket set with ratchet
Step 1: Disconnect the negative battery cable. Before you remove a distributor you should disconnect the
negative battery cable so that no one can crank the engine while you complete the procedure.

Step 2: Locate the distributor. You will need to locate the distributor. It is commonly located on the top of
the engine block in either the front, or rear of V-6 and V-8 engines, or on the side of the block on 4 and 6
cylinder engines. The distributor has a plastic cap with spark plug wires coming out of the top of the cap.
Each of these wires goes to a corresponding cylinder spark plug and must be in the correct position for the
engine to run.(Zhao, 2018)

Step 3: Mark spark plug wire position. You can use popular service information repair manuals for the
vehicle or the cylinder numbers printed on the spark plug wires.

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Identify the engine cylinders and mark each wire on the distributor by using masking tape or a permanent
marker. Label each wire’s corresponding cylinder number so that they can be installed in the correct
order.

 Tip: If there is an arrow indicating rotation on the cap, make sure you note which direction the
numbered wires should be installed on the cap.

Step 4: Remove the distributor cap. Distributor caps are typically held in place by clips or screws.
Either disconnect the clips or turn the screws to release the cap from the distributor.

 Note: The following steps are very important for starting the engine later. Once the cap is removed,
you will need to make a mark on the engine, fender shield, radiator or some other clean area
directly in-line with the direction that the rotor points
Step 5: Mark the housing. Make another mark on the distributor housing so you know where the rotor
was pointing on the distributor.

Step 6: Disconnect wiring and/or vacuum lines. Disconnect any primary electrical wiring or vacuum lines
the distributor may have.
 On a points and condenser type, you may need to disconnect the primary electrical wire coming out
of the distributor at the ignition coil. On an electronic ignition you may follow the small wire
harness that comes out from the distributor and locate the connector.

Step 7: Disconnect the connector. Remove the connector from any brackets holding it in, and pull the
locking tab to disconnect it.

Step 8: Remove hold down bolt and clamp. The distributor is held in place by a bolt typically called the
hold down bolt. Remove the bolt and the clamp that is under the bolt. When you have removed the bolt
and clamp, you can lift the distributor body out of the engine block.
 Note: On older vehicles it may take some force to remove the distributor.
 Tip: If it appears the distributor is corroded to the engine block, use penetrating oil and let the
penetrant soak for 15 minutes to aid in removal. Do not attempt to hit the distributor with a
hammer as most distributors are made of cast aluminum and will be damaged.

Remove spark plugs

To maintain the proper firing order, each spark-plug wire must go from the spark source to the proper
spark plug. Therefore, only remove the wire from one plug at a time, and don’t disconnect both ends of
the wire! This way, you won’t ever get into trouble — unless a second wire comes off accidentally.

Follow these steps to remove each spark plug:

1. Gently grasp a spark plug wire by the boot (the place where it connects to the spark plug), twist it, and
pull it straight out. Never yank on the wire itself (you can damage the wiring). The shiny thing sticking
out of the engine block after you remove the wire from the spark plug is the terminal of the spark
plug. This figure shows you all the parts of a spark plug, including the terminal.

2. Use a soft, clean rag or a small paintbrush to clean the area where the spark plug enters the block.
You also can blow the dirt away with a soda straw. Cleaning the area keeps loose junk from falling down
the hole into the cylinder when you remove the plug.

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 3. Place your spark plug socket (the big one with the rubber lining) over the spark plug; exert some
pressure while turning it slightly to be sure that it’s all the way down.
Don’t be afraid to use some strength. But use it in a controlled manner. If you bang or jerk things, you can
damage them.

4. Stick the square end of your ratchet handle into the square hole in the spark plug socket.
Adding a couple of extensions between the handle and the socket may help you move the handle freely
from side to side without hitting anything.

5. Loosen the spark plug by turning it counterclockwise.

To get the proper leverage, place your free hand over the head of the wrench, grasping the head firmly,
and pull the handle, hitting it gently with the palm of your hand to get it going, as shown here.
Be sure your socket is securely over the plug and that the ratchet is at the same angle as the plug to avoid
stripping the threads on the plug or in the spark plug hole in the engine head.
You may have some difficulty loosening a spark plug the first time. Grease, sludge, and other junk may
have caused the plug to stick in place, especially if it’s been a long time since it was changed. If it feels
stuck, try a little spray lubricant.

6. When the ratchet turns freely, finish the job by removing the ratchet handle and turning the socket
by hand until the plug is free from the engine.

● Content /Topic 3: Distributor disassembling procedures

Remove protective cover

Disconnect the electrical connector and the vacuum advance hose, if the distributor has them.
Remove the distributor cap and note the position of the rotor. On some vehicles, it may be necessary to
remove the spark plug wires from the cap prior to cap removal.

Remove the rotor

Note the position of the vacuum advance, then remove the distributor hold down bolt and clamp.
Pull the distributor from the engine. Most distributors will need to be twisted as they are pulled out of
their bore. Note the direction of rotation.

Remove contact breaker /pulse or hall generator

Once the distributor is removed, install a shop towel in the distributor opening to keep foreign material out
of the engine block.

The following procedure may be followed to install the distributor and time it to the
engine:
1. Lubricate the O-ring on the distributor shaft.
2. Position the rotor so that it is aligned with the mark made to the distributor housing prior to removal.
3. Align the distributor to the mark made on the engine block during removal.
4. Lower the distributor into the engine block; make sure the distributor drive is fully seated. Distributors
equipped with a helical drive gear will rotate as the distributor is being installed, causing the distributor to
move away from the reference marks. Pay attention to how much the rotor moves, then remove the
distributor and move the rotor backward the same amount.
This should allow the shaft to rotate while the distributor is being installed and still be aligned with the
reference marks.

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5. Make sure the distributor housing is fully seated against the engine block; sometimes it may be
necessary to wiggle or rock the distributor to seat it fully into the drive gear. Distributors with drive lugs
must be mated with the drive grooves in the camshaft. Both
are offset to eliminate the possibility of installing the distributor 180 degrees out of time.
6. Rotate the distributor a small amount so the timer core teeth and pickup teeth are aligned.
7. Install the distributor holddown clamp and bolt , and leave the bolt slightly loose.
8. Install the spark plug wires in the direction of distributor shaft rotation and in the correct cylinder firing
order.
9. Connect the wiring for the distributor. The vacuum advance hose is usually left disconnected until the
timing is set with the engine running.

LO 2.3 – Repair and replace ignition system components

● Content/Topic 1 Faults Checking

Visual check

The spark plug wires, the distributor cap, and the distributor rotor are subject to wear and electrical
breakdown. This will impair their ability to deliver a crisply timed and powerful spark. Many of these
conditions are most easily detected by a thorough visual inspection. Dirt and moisture on these
components are also potential causes of poor spark at the spark plugs.

To check the distributor cap and rotor, remove the cap as described in 5. Distributor. Inspect the contacts
inside the distributor cap and at the tip of the rotor for corrosion, wear, or pitting. Corroded contacts can
be cleaned and reused, but for wear, pitting, or heavy corrosion, replacement is recommended. The center
black carbon brush inside the cap should spring back when compressed. (James, 2010)

Cracks or carbon tracks in the distributor cap may cause shorts to ground. The cracks may be fine and
difficult to see. Carbon tracks are faint black lines, usually running between two contacts or to ground, left
over from high-voltage arcing. Replace a cap that shows any sign of cracks or carbon tracking. For a
thorough inspection, be sure also to check under the black radio-suppression shield on the outside of the
cap.

To check the spark plug wires, gently bend them in several places to expose cracks in the insulation which
may cause spark "leaks." Remove the rubber boots and check them for pliancy and the ability to seal out
dirt and moisture. Replace any wire that is cracked, oil-soaked, or dry and brittle.

For a quick-check of the distributor cap and spark plug wires, listen for the sound of the arcing or watch
while the engine runs at night. The arc of high voltage to ground because of a crack in the cap or a poorly
insulated wire may be visible as a blue spark. Also, use a spray bottle to spray a fine mist of water around
the cap and wires while the engine runs. If the cap and wires are in good condition and insulated properly,
the added moisture should have no effect. If their condition is marginal, the added moisture may promote
arcing and cause the engine to run roughly.

The coil should be examined for cracks, burns, carbon tracks, and for any leaking fluid. The coil tower,
terminal 4, should be clean and dry. If necessary, remove the coil for cleaning and closer examination.

Smelling check

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When your vehicle backfires, it’s hard not to notice. You’ll hear what sounds like a shotgun blast, your car
may lurch, and black smoke will pour out of the tailpipe. The “check engine” light on the dash usually turns
on, and you may smell gasoline. This unpleasant experience happens when unused fuel enters the exhaust
pipe and combusts on the way out.

Low fuel pressure could be the issue, but, sometimes, the ignition system is to blame. Bad ignition coils
affect when the spark plugs ignite, which causes improper timing.

Testing
Use an ohmmeter to test the ignition coil primary and secondary resistance. Replace any coil which has
higher primary or secondary resistance.
To check each spark plug wire, disconnect the ends from the spark plug and from the distributor cap and
use an ohmmeter to check resistance . Spark plug wires should have 4600 to 7400 ohms resistance. The
coil wire should have 1200 to 2800 ohms resistance.
If the measured resistance is too high, check the wire and the connectors separately, as shown in Fig. 3-3.
Also check for corrosion at the connections. Remove the connectors carefully. Twist, then pull. If the metal
wire end stays in the connector, the connection is ruined and both connector and wire must be replaced.
The resistance of the spark plug connectors should be 4000 to 6000 ohms. The resistance of the
suppression connectors which connect to the distributor cap should be 600 to 1400 ohms. The resistance
of the wire alone should be nearly zero ohms. Wires or connectors with too much resistance should be
replaced. Individual connectors and wires are available from authorized Volkswagen dealers, but may not
be stocked by all dealers.

Noisy check
One of the best solutions for reducing RFI is the use of noise suppressors. The resistor can be designed for
the particular ignition system with the finest damping characteristics without disturbing the ignition pulses.
The resistors can be placed in the rotor of the distributor, the spark plug leads as well in the spark plug
caps itself.

● Content/Topic 2 Repair the high tension cables

Insulate
Ignition wires should be replaced at least every 60,000 miles, but whenever your car is serviced, it’s a good
idea to have the entire ignition system inspected. Any time that you have spark plugs replaced, it’s a good
idea to have the ignition wires replaced as well. If you notice that your engine is running poorly, you should
schedule an inspection.

Connection
The ignition cables, also known as “spark plug wires” are part of the ignition system. They transfer the
spark from the distributor or ignition coil to spark plugs that ignite the air-fuel mixture, starting the engine.
Over time, the cables can get weak and break down. This will make it harder for the spark to reach the
engine cylinders, resulting in engine misfires. The car may not start at all. If one of the spark plugs has gone
bad, the car will still start and run, but it will run poorly. You can check the connection and if it damaged
you can repair or replace.

● Content /Topic 3: Adjust the gap

Contact breaker

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The correct setting for the points is given in the car handbook or workshop manual.
Turn the crankshaft pulley in the direction of the engines normal rotation with a spanner or socket wrench,
until the contact heel is on the tip of one of the distributor cam lobes , so that the contact-breaker points
are fully open.
Alternatively, put the car in top gear and push it forwards a short distance until the point open. Removing
the sparkplugs eases the job of turning the engine by relieving the pressure in the cylinders.
Place the feeler gauge blade between the points, and a screwdriver blade in the adjusting slots.
Place the correct size feeler-gauge blade between the points to measure the gap.
On most types you can adjust the gap by freeing the fixing screw and sliding the entire assembly, or
sometimes just one contact, around a pivot; some types have a special adjusting screw.
Push the sliding type with a thin screwdriver blade rotating in its adjusting slot, or just adjust the screw,
until you feel that the points offer a slight resistance to the feeler.
Tighten the fixings and re-check the gap in case it has changed (you do not need to do this for a screw
adjustment)
Spark plug
1. Determine if the gap needs adjusting. If the tool passes through the gap without touching the
electrodes at the appropriate measure, your gap is too wide. If you can't fit it between the electrodes,
the gap is too small and needs to be widened some. If it fits closely to the specified measurement,
you're safe to install the spark plug.[4]
 Most spark plugs and iridium plugs manufactured today don't need to be gapped prior to installing
them. If you've got a custom modified engine, though, you might be interested in checking or
installing plugs at a different spacing. Adjust them accordingly.[5]

2. Use the tool to adjust the bottom electrode. When you hold the spark plug with the electrodes facing
the floor, you'll want to bend the bottom one very gently either in toward the other electrode if you
want to narrow the gap, or out, if you want to increase the gap slightly.
 Never bend more than a few (.02) fractions of an inch. It won't take much pressure, so be very
careful. Spark plugs can be quite delicate, and any fracturing can cause misfires.
 If you're having trouble using the tool to adjust the gap, consider bending it in using a flat surface
like a table to apply some very gentle pressure on the electrode to adjust it.

3. Re-measure the gap and adjust accordingly. Be very careful not to contact the electrode in the center
of the plug and damage the core. If it breaks or shorts you'll need to toss it and buy a new one.

4. Be very gentle. Snapping off the electrode will waste your efforts, and it doesn't take much to do so.
Use only a small amount of pressure to bend the electrode and only bend it a little bit.

● Content /Topic 4: Spark plug replacement procedures

Remove HT cables
 Open the hood of your vehicle and disconnect the wires from the spark plugs. Follow your owner’s
manual for instructions on where the wires are located.
 Carefully inspect the plugs to make sure there is no water or debris around them.
 Wipe them clean, if needed, to make sure nothing falls into the engine cylinder upon removal.

Unscrew spark plugs

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 Use a spark plug socket paired with a 3/8 ratchet to loosen and pull the first plug from its housing.

Remove spark pugs

 These sockets are designed to securely grip the spark plugs for effortless removal and may require
a socket adapter to use with your current drive tool.
 Discard the old plugs after inspecting for corrosion and confirming they need to be replaced.

Purchase new spark plugs

 Consult your owner’s manual to make sure you purchase the correct spark plugs before installing new
ones.
 Some plugs have a special plating to prevent corrosion and ensure the engine cylinder does not seize
up. Others will need to be coated with an anti-seize lubricant to ensure smooth installation and
cranking.
 Additionally, a pre-gapped model is the best option for those who do not know how to gap a spark
plug.
 Use a spark plug gap gauge to make sure the gap specifications match the manufacturer requirements
outlined in your owner’s manual.

Fix spark plugs

 Make sure the cylinder head is cool to the touch and begin by hand-tightening the plug to reduce the
risk of damage.
 Use a torque wrench to finish installing the new spark plugs. Check the instructions included with the
new spark plugs to confirm the correct torque specifications.
 Add a bit of lubricant to the inside of the spark plug wire and reattach it to the spark plugs.

Connect high tension cables

When fitting a screw-on connector to copper-cored cable using a crimp-on terminal or a washer, remove
about z in. (13 mm) of insulation from the end of the lead with a sharp knife. Take care not to cut into the
wire core. Thread on the collar. Fit a crimp-on terminal by folding up the wings and flattening them with
pliers. Fit a terminal washer by threading the core through the washer and bending the strands back
around it.
For a screw terminal, do not remove any insulation. Insert the lead into the connector, making sure that
the screw is in line with the cable core. Tighten the screw to pierce the core.
Reinstall the ignition coil, hold-down bolt and coil electrical connector.

Testing
After all process you have to switch on the vehicle for testing the spark plug.

LO 2.4 – Perform ignition timing

● Content /Topic1 Understanding Testing

Firing order
Choosing the firing order is an essential part of engine design. Manufacturers carefully decide firing orders
to tame vibrations and improve heat dissipation. The firing order also impacts ride quality (smoothness of
ride), engine balance and engine sound. All these factors, except perhaps engine sound, decidedly play a
role in extending an engine’s fatigue life. However, many piston heads consider engine sound an essential
part of engine design, understandably so!

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Most 4-cylinder engines have a firing order of 1-3-4-2 although other firing orders such as 1-3-2-4, 1-4-3-2,
1-2-4-3 are possible. Consider the inline 4 engine in Figure 1.

Timing marks

Ignition timing marks

Ignition cycle

● Content /Topic2 Check ignition timing

Uses of Stroboscopic lamp

The ignition system ensures that the mixture in the cylinders combusts at the right moment. The moment
at which the mixture combusts (ignition timing) depends on the operating conditions of the engine.
In some ignition systems, the ignition timing can be adjusted. In most ignition systems, however,
adjustment is not possible, but it may still be necessary to check the ignition timing.
You can measure the ignition timing with a motor tester (diagnostic tester).
You can also often use a stroboscope lamp to do this. Reference marks are necessary to measure the
ignition timing with a stroboscope lamp. The location of these reference marks can differ for each
brand and type of car. Possible locations include:

– on the crankshaft pulley and the engine block or the distributor cap.
– on the flywheel and the clutch housing

A stroboscope lamp is usually equipped with an advance meter. The stroboscope lamp in Figure 98 has
three connections:
– a feed wire connected to the + of the battery
– an earth wire connected to the – of the battery
– a test wire connected to the spark plug of the first cylinder; the arrow on the connecting clamp of this
wire must point to the spark plug of the first cylinder.
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Testing with Stroboscopic lamp

Visual check
Every time the spark plug of the first cylinder sparks, the stroboscope lamp flashes momentarily. It is then
possible to read the position of the reference marks. The reference marks on the flywheel and the clutch
housing indicate that the ignition timing is 20° before TDC.

● Content /Topic3 Adjust distributor

ADVANCE
SPARK ADVANCE
To get the most power out of a motor the spark has to happen a bit before it gets to the top of the
cylinder. As the engine goes faster the spark needs to happen earlier and earlier. This is called "Spark
Advance". Older cars had vacuum advances, centrifugal advances, or a combination of both. On newer cars
the computer controls the spark advance.

TYPES OF ADVANCE MECHANISMS

VACUUM ADVANCE
A vacuum advance is on the side of the distributor, usually a cone shaped metal unit with a vacuum hose
connected to it. As an engine comes under a load it cannot tolerate as much spark advance. Also, when an
engine comes under a load, intake manifold vacuum decreases. So the vacuum advance works out well by
retarding the spark (less advance) when the engine comes under a load.

CENTRIFUGAL ADVANCE
As a motor goes faster it needs more spark advance. Picture the old flyball governors on the old steam
engines (and Frankensein movies) Centrifugal advance mechanisms are inside the distributor. They have
weights that oppose springs, and engage a pivot mechanism that advances the spark as the distributor
spins fasrter.

COMPUTER CONTROLLED ADVANCE

Newer cars use computer controlled electronic ignition to advance the spark. They use a number of sensor
inputs to calculate ideal ignition timing. On vehicles like this you can sometimes check the ignition timing,
but you can't adjust it.

RETARD

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Newer vehicles you can't adjust the timing without reprogramming the computer. You can buy
performance computer chips, but that doesn't really count. Basically, if you don't have a distributor, you
can't adjust your timing. If the timing is off on a newer vehicle, it probably means a mechanical problem.
Like a timing chain or belt, or a defective sensor or the computer itself. RULE OF THUMB: If your car has a
distributor, you can PROBABLY adjust your timing. If it doesn't, you can’t. An exception is some of the
"transitional" engines: where the ignition is fired by the computer, but there's still a distributor to take the
spark to the individual cylinders. On those motors, you just make sure the rotor is aligned properly with the
distributor cap terminals. (There's a mark on the distributor, and the crank balancer has timing marks)

Learning Unit 3 – Test ignition system

LO 3.1 – Select tools , materials and equipment

● Content/Topic 1: Tools

Power tools
While many mechanics will take an air-powered wrench any time of the day, battery
powered wrenches are a great solution for automotive working in the home garage. Milwaukee's 2454-22
3/8 Impact Wrench is one such power tool that gets a lot done around most automotive parts.

Measuring tools
Many cars and parts are meant to have at least some level of tolerance when installing or adjusting them.
But if you want to reach the top of the mechanical mountain, then you need everything to be accurate
down to the nth degree. measuring tools give you exact readings of everything on a car so you know
whether it's where it needs to be. Get the tools that separate weekend warriors from championship auto
racing mechanics.
Examples:
 Tape Measure. A well-worn tape measure signifies a builder who takes their work seriously. ...
 Speed Square. A speed square can be found on the hip of carpenters and DIYers everywhere. ...
 Protractor. ...
 Mechanical Carpenter's Pencil. ...
 Laser Measure.

Hand tools
Select hand tools like
 Bit Drivers.
 Chisels.
 Files.
 Gear Ratchet.
 Hammers.
 Hex Keys.
 Lockout Tools.
 Master Tool Sets.

● Content/Topic 2 Materials

Grease

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 Greases are applied to mechanisms that can be lubricated only infrequently and where a lubricating oil
would not stay in position. They also act as sealants to prevent ingress of water and incompressible
materials. Grease-lubricated bearings have greater frictional characteristics because of their high viscosity.

Lubricants
To lubricate each part of the bearing, and to reduce friction and wear. To carry away heat generated inside
bearing due to friction and other causes. To cover rolling contact surface with the proper oil film in order
to prolong bearing fatigue life. To prevent corrosion and contamination by dirt.

Brushes
Use brushes for cleaning of the electrical arts like coil and distributor.

● Content /Topic3 Equipment

PPE
PPE is equipment that will protect workers against health or safety risks on the job. ... The purpose is to
reduce employee exposure to hazards when engineering and administrative controls are not feasible or
effective to reduce these risks to acceptable levels.

Diagnostic machine
Computer diagnostic tools can be used scan your computer's hard drive, check your ram for errors, check
cpu temp and give you information about any other devices connected to your computer.

LO 3.2 – Test ignition spark delivery

● Content/Topic 1 Test sparks

Weak
Remove a spark plug wire from any plug. Attach a spark tester to the wire and to an engine ground. Crank
the engine and check for a good spark at the spark tester gap.
Weak sparks are orange or red and may be hard to see in daylight. If you did not see a spark, remove the
coil wire from the distributor cap. Attach the spark tester to the distributor end of the coil wire. Crack the
engine and check for a good spark at the spark tester. If a spark is present, the problem is probably in the
distributor cap, rotor or spark plug wires.

Strong
A good spark will be blue-white and will be plainly visible in daylight. If a good spark is present, the
problem is probably not in the ignition system. Check the fuel system and/or stark timing.

Leakage
Be sure to first check spark plug wires for visual damage. Look for any signs of melting or cracking. The
following situations call for immediate replacement of spark plug wires:
 Vibration damage – Constant wear and tear caused by engine vibration can loosen the electrical
connection at the spark plug. This causes an increase in the voltage required to fire the spark plug, which
could damage the ignition coil as well as the spark plug wires.

 Heat damage – Engine heat can burn wire insulation and boots. A damaged boot can impede proper
spark plug wire seating and performance. Wire insulation that’s damaged by head can allow voltage to
jump to the ground rather than jumping the gap at the bottom of the spark plug.

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 Abrasion damage – When spark plug wires rub against engine parts, particularly sharp edges, it causes
cuts and breaks in the insulation. Once this happens, voltage can jump to ground instead of reaching the
spark plug.

LO 3.3 – Check general states of (HT) cables and wires

● Content/Topic 1 Visual check

Broken
Mechanical damage is often incurred to the cable by exceeding the maximum bend radius or cable “snag
and drag” on the bottom of trenches causing sheath damage through contact with stones or aggregate –
cable repair is most commonly necessitated in response to damage caused during excavation works.

Loosen
 Wipe off the spark plug insulator and distributor cap towers before installing new wires. Route the plug
wires exactly as they were originally. To avoid arc-over, do not route wires of consecutively firing
cylinders next to each other.
 A couple of things to keep in mind if you have more radio noise upon completion - (1) Metallic wire sets
can radiate the ignition noise like an antenna. (2) Always check radio noise with the hood closed and
latched. (3) Ensure the spark plug wires aren’t routed parallel to a sensor wire.
 Never clamp spark plug wires tightly or allow them to be pinched between the air cleaner and the
distributor. The high voltage stresses will be increased at these points and hasten wire failure.
 Bundling of spark plug wires and wrapping them with tape, pulling them through metal tubes or dressing
them tightly against the engine, may make them look neat but can cause serious voltage losses and/or
crossfiring. Changing the routing from the original OEM routing can lead to early spark plug wire failure.

● Content/Topic 2 Testing

Continuity

1. Turn the dial to Continuity Test mode ( ). It will likely share a spot on the dial with one or more
functions, usually resistance (Ω). With the test probes separated, the millimeters’ display may show
OL and Ω.
2. If required, press the continuity button.
3. First insert the black test lead into the COM jack.
4. Then insert the red lead into the VΩ jack. When finished, remove the leads in reverse order: red
first, then black.
5. With the circuit de-energized, connect the test leads across the component being tested. The
position of the test leads is arbitrary. Note that the component may need to be isolated from other
components in the circuit.
6. The digital multimeter (DMM) beeps if a complete path (continuity) is detected. If the circuit is
open (the switch is in the OFF position), the DMM will not beep.
7. When finished, turn the multimeter OFF to preserve battery life.

Short circuit
At its most basic, a short circuit is a fault in the wiring harness, which shunts electricity between
circuits before getting to its destination. A short-circuit should not be confused with an open circuit, in
which current does not flow at all. Though the symptoms of a short circuit can be similar to an open circuit,
diagnosis is a bit different. There are several ways a short circuit can occur, and it isn’t usually easy to find

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and repair. To understand how to find a short circuit, though, we need to understand how a properly-
functioning circuit works.

 A typical sensor circuit, say engine coolant temperature, might be the wiring between the engine
control module (ECM) and the engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT). The ECM might be located
behind the glove box, while ECT is located on the engine. The ECM sends a 5 V reference voltage to the
ECT, which changes resistance depending on temperature. When the ECT sensor is cold, it has higher
resistance, so less voltage gets back to the ECM. As the engine heats up, the ECT sensor resistance
proportionately drops, sending a higher voltage back to the ECM.

 A typical actuator circuit, say a headlight, includes the wiring from the battery, through fuses and
relays, the headlight switch, to the headlight bulb, and then back to the battery. The headlight switch
always has power going to it but doesn’t route power to the headlight until the driver turns the switch.

In either of these circuits, proper function is assured as long as the wiring is intact, but there are many
ways that any circuit could be interrupted. Rodent damage, chafing wires, shoddy installation
practices, water intrusion, and impact damage are just a few of the things that can interrupt your car's
electrical circuits. Inadvertently driving a screw through a wiring harness is a great way to cause a short to
ground or short to power or both.
Step 1

Turn the multimeter settings knob to "continuity." The continuity setting is indicated by a small
microphone symbol. This setting tests the amount of ohms at one end of a wire in relation to the ohms
discharged from the other end. Unequal ohms measurements are evidence of a short in the wire.
Step 2

Place the negative multimeter probe, the black one, on one end of the wire you want to test for
continuity. Place the red probe, the positive one, on the other end of the wire. Listen for a sustained
beep, which indicates continuity.

Look at the monitor on the multimeter. Check the number of ohms displayed on the screen. Continuity
requires at least .3 ohms. If the screen displays a smaller number, check the wire for breaks and frays.

Additional resistance
Use the digital multimeter, set to Ohms Ω. Simply attach or hold a meter probe on each end of the cable
and read the total resistance on the meter. The Society of Automotive Engineers suggests the maximum
resistance should be 12,000 ohms-per-foot. However, some OEMs have recommended different maximum
resistances. Consult a tune-up manual for exact specifications.

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References

1) Erjavec, J. (2010). Automotive technology A SYSTEMS APPROACH. . ISBN-13: 978-1428311497 ,2010.

2) Halderman, J. D. (2013). AUTOMOTIVE TECHNOLOGY Principles, Diagnosis, and Service F O U R T H E D I T I O
N. Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458 .
3) https://www.planetanalog.com/automotive-ignition-systems/. (n.d.).
4) James. (2010). Automobile Electrical Systems UNIT 3 AUTOMOBILE ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS.
5) James E, D. (2006). Modern Automotive technology 2 nd Edition.
6) Zhao, J. L. (2018). The key technology toward the self-driving car. ISSN 9. 2049-6427.

he self-driving car. ISSN 9. 2049-6427.

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