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INDIA

FA S H I O N B E AU T Y VO G U E C L O S E T W E D D I N G WA R D

FA S H I O N

Anita Dongre's new


line of vegan
accessories are
made with a material
that took decades to
find
The mother-and-son duo Anita and Yash Dongre tell
Vogue about their passion project that took years to come
to fruition—creating vegan bags and accessories

B Y S H R I YA Z A M I N D A R

26 January 2023

Conscious consumption has been a growing


necessity in fashion, and while clothing has seen
a modicum of change, the Indian fashion scape
has yet to catch up. Anita Dongre has just
stepped on the gas pedal. Her bid for creating a
more conscious label with a line of vegan
accessories testifies that change is afoot. While a
fresh crop of new labels are flying the sustainable
flag, the old guard that has seen many decades of
fashion in the country is inventing new ways to
explore the meaning of sustainability. 

Dongre’s vegan accessories are not the first step


the brand has taken into the conscious fashion
territory but a bigger leap into cementing its
status as a brand that cares. At first, it was
conscious clothing that Dongre focused on, and
the designer found a new drive to make
sustainable fashion a big part of the brand's
legacy. Anita Dongre the label is perhaps one of
the few first-generation designer names that have
taken a serious dive into creating sustainably.

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The accessories space, a primary money-making


entity for luxury brands is still untouched by the
new movement of conscious production. The
focus on creating the best quality product in the
trendiest of designs takes precedence over
bettering production practices to reduce waste or
utilising less resources. Dongre’s line of plant-
based bags and belts is rejecting the conventional
approach by replacing materials like leather with
a plant-based fabric that the brand has searched
for years to find. And on a closer look, you will
find that while conscious production was a
priority, style has not been compromised to
create this line. 

The mother-and-son duo behind the brand have


been nurturing this idea for a while, with a
surprising passion for creating a new identifier
for the brand as a staunch supporter of conscious
consumption in the fashion space. They've done
it successfully with clothing, and are taking a
further step into a whole new sector. Vogue sits
down with Anita and Yash Dongre to discuss this
new chapter. 

A n ita Do n g re h a s b e e n
su p po rt in g t h e su s ta i n a b l e
m o v eme n t f o r a w h i l e n o w,
ca n y o u t e l l u s w h y t h e
vega n a c c e sso rie s l i n e w a s
the nex t st e p f o r t h e
br and?

Anita: "My personal philosophy is to live a


mindful life with kindness. This philosophy
extends to respecting all life because of which we
have never been able to use leather for our line of
accessories. As companies, we need to be mindful
of the pain & suffering that is created on helpless
animals for the sake of fashion.

We have been looking for a leather replacement


for the longest that is cruelty-free and kind to the
environment. Women today need to express their
authentic selves and carrying a bag that reflects
their core philosophies is important. The vegan
accessories line has been a dream that has only
come to fruition now with material sciences
answering my decades old question."
\

W hat wa s t h e proc e s s o f
fi n ding
di ng t h e rig h t m a t e r i a l s
to cr eat e t h is l in e ?

Anita: "The search for a material that replaces


leather while being kind to the planet has been
on for years and continues to date. With
MIRUM® we found a partner who creates this
beautiful material that mimics the touch, feel and
age of leather without the cruelty. It does this
without the use of plastic, a material that has
been a constant in vegan leather but is so bad for
the planet. Material science is a field of research
and creation that is slow. We’ve gone through
various rounds of sampling for over 18 months
to achieve this product.

Also, as a creative, while designing this line, there


is so much we wanted to do but working with
sustainable materials comes with its own
constraints. For instance, the material is only
created in the colour black right now. Even today
we are in the midst of sampling various other
materials and while it’s a tedious and slow
process, we wouldn’t do it any other way."

Yo u a re n o w m o v i n g i n to
a ll new a v e n u e , w h a t wo u l d
y o u s ay a re t h e h a l l m a r k
sig nature s o f A n i ta D o n gr e
tha t you h a v e in coc or p o r a t e d
i n this lin
l ine ?

Anita: “The Anita Dongre brand has stood for


elegance, timeless classics, and sustainability. We
have always stood for handcrafted luxury while
being mindful of the purpose it serves. These
same principles extend into this collection of
conscious, plastic-free, vegan accessories inspired
by nature, my eternal muse. While the shapes
these bags take are fun, they are also functional–
a design approach that extends across all Anita
Dongre products. Our brand philosophies go
into everything from product to packaging and
beyond.”

I n I ndi a , a t ra n sit
si ti o n o r
ex pans i o n t o w a rd s
j eweller y f ro m In d i a n w e a r
ha s beco m e a c o m m o n
pr actis e , w it h y oouur label
tha t i s r o o t e d in h e r i t a ge
a n d tr a dit io n s—w h y w e r e
a c c es s orie s t h e n e w p a t h t o
ta ke?

Yash: “At Anita Dongre, this line of accessories


simply wasn’t possible until now. It has taken
decades of patience to find a material that can be
swapped for leather with the addition of it being
cruelty-free and good for the planet. These
materials come with the restriction of colour,
design and pattern but the brand’s principles are
clear— we only work with quality material that
is plastic-free and earth friendly. This line was
begun with the best intentions and we hope that
the growing number of conscious consumers will
appreciate the option to have a quality product
that is elegant, sustainable and cruelty-free.”

Consumers usually invest in luxury bags that


are not necessarily conscious but do carry the
status symbol. With your new line, how do
you feel it would be received by the market,
and what are the unique highlights that make
this line stand out from other luxury
products?\

Yash: “There is a growing market of conscious


luxury consumers. These are people who choose
to support businesses that align with their
aesthetics and principles– a financial vote of
confidence for making ethical choices. Flaunting
brands that actively seek an equitable world is
this shopper’s flex, or “status symbol”. What’s
most exciting about this line of accessories is that
none of them require a compromise of ethical
living or high fashion. They are each timelessly
elegant while being cruelty-free and plastic-free.”
\

D o y o u t h in k t h eerr e i s a
lux ur y b o o m , a n d a c h a n ge
i n the w a y t h e In
Ind d i a n b u ye r
per ceiv e s l u x u ry to d a y a s
o p po s ed t o a d e c a d e b a c k ?

Yash: “We have noticed an increase in luxury


spending in line with the country’s growing
economy. Over the last decade, luxury has been
accessible to shoppers domestically while a
plethora of international brands have launched in
India. This expansion of choice partnered with a
growing average disposable income has allowed
luxury purchases to be, not just aspirational but,
accessible. There is a growing number of people
who know the value of handcrafted, ethical
products and see them as luxury items, this is a
growing voice.”

“The Anita Dongre brand is for people who want


to make those thoughtful choices, an intelligent
shopper. This is an audience that appreciates
product for its quality and history more than just
a price tag. Whether in New York or Dubai, I
have noticed a growing demand for conscious
brands and like with big labels in the past, a
proud flaunting of the value these brands state.
We have a website that caters to over 150
countries and the interest in ethically sourced,
handcrafted fashion speaks to a changed
consumer psyche. It’s clear that India is poised to
lead the world in handcrafted luxury.”

A lso Re a d:
d: 
Anita Dongre on building a bridalwear empire
on the premise of purpose

Anita Dongre is releasing a new bracelet that


comes with a cause

Exclusive: Starring Sara Tendulkar, Alaviaa


Jaaferi and others, here's your first look at
Anita Dongre’s new bridal couture collection,
‘Homage’

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