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RJTA
23,4 Segmenting Islamic fashion
lifestyle on Indonesian woman
Hermawan Kartajaya, Mohammad Iqbal, Rizal Alfisyahr and
Lusy Deasyana Rahma Devita
306 Faculty of Administrative Sciences, Brawijaya University, Malang, Indonesia, and
Received 5 February 2019 Taufiq Ismail
Revised 26 March 2019
21 May 2019 Faculty of Economics and Business, Brawijaya University, Malang, Indonesia
21 July 2019
Accepted 23 August 2019
Abstract
Purpose – This paper aims to identify the typology of fashion lifestyle that is relevant to predict the
individual difference in evaluating Islamic fashion product.
Design/methodology/approach – The study involved female respondents aged above 16 years and
wearing hijab. The sample of this research is 697 respondents from four big cities in Indonesia (Jakarta,
Bandung, Surabaya and Malang) with the population in this study constituting 264 million Indonesian people.
A random procedure with socio-demographic (sex, age and habitat) quotas was used for selecting respondent,
and data is obtained using questionnaire research instruments.
Findings – There are 11 factors and 6 segments for clustering the respondents of Islamic fashion lifestyle.
The cluster analysis demonstrated that the mean of personality pursuit, Sharia dressing style orientation and
religiousity is greater than 4.00 on all clusters. This score proves that the consumers of Islamic fashion among
six clusters have high level or religiousity and Sharia dressing style.
Originality/value – Considering the upcoming issue on Indonesia Moslem market subculture, this
research explores market segmentation based on Islamic fashion lifestyle. In 2015, Indonesia reached the fifth
rank in the world Islamic fashion market with $13.28bn potential market value and the average of 10.17%
fashion industry growth annually (Euromonitor, 2018).
Keywords Style, Fashion lifestyle, Indonesian woman, Segmenting
Paper type Research paper
1. Introduction
To understand the importance of fashion in our life, several researchers observed
individuals’ motivation in choosing what outfit that they wear. Some studies demonstrate
that the choice on fashion is influenced by individual needs to shape expected self-image
which resemble their surrounding’s perspevtive (Davis, 1985; Feinburg et al., 1992;
Johnstone and Conroy, 2005; Newholm and Hopkinson, 2009). It is also indicated by
someone’s ability to identify himself and other people through what they wear (Solomon and
Schopler, 1982; Roach-Higgins and Eicher, 1992).
Further, there are also some studies that explore the factors which influence fashion
behavior. The initial research mostly focused on finding the influence of demographic
factors like age, gender and marriage status in creating both fashion innovativeness and
fashion opinion leadership (Summers, 1970; Baumgarten, 1975; Polegato and Wall, 1980;
Goldsmith et al., 1987). More recent studies found that fashion behavior phenomena such
Research Journal of Textile and
Apparel
as fashion consciousness and fashion leadership are inseparable from social and
Vol. 23 No. 4, 2019
pp. 306-322
psychological factors (Forsythe et al., 1991; Goldsmith et al., 1996; Koksal, 2014;
© Emerald Publishing Limited
1560-6074
Alexandra et al., 2015), mainly in shopping context. Therefore, some researchers altered
DOI 10.1108/RJTA-02-2019-0003 their focus on fashion shopping as they explored other possible factors to explain
attitudinal and behavioral variables including involvement, hedonic consumption, Islamic fashion
impulse buying and emotion in fashion shopping (Fairhurst et al., 1989; Han et al., 1991; lifestyle on
Hausman, 2000; Khare and Rakesh, 2010; O’Cass, 2000, 2004; Park et al., 2006; Vieira and
Slongo, 2008; Vieira, 2009; Peters et al., 2011).
Indonesian
In an Islamic society, Moslem woman is one of the most potential groups but not yet woman
widely discussed related to the fashion behavior on that group. Former research found that
religion has pivotal role in shaping fashion behavior for Moslem women. It is due to the
Moslem women should comply the rules predetermined by Islam religion (called Sharia) on 307
the way they wear their fashion. Some of the results stated that the level of religious faith
and religious values consistently influence fashion behavior (O’Cass et al., 2013), while other
research proved the opposite findings (Al-Mutawa, 2013) as the interpretation of some
moslem groups on religious values regarding the fashion may alter from time to time
(Gökariksel and Secor, 2010).
Considering the upcoming issue on Indonesia moslem market subculture, this research
explores market segmentation based on Islamic fashion lifestyle. In 2015, Indonesia reached the
fifth rank in the world Islamic fashion market with $13.28bn potential market value and the
average of 10.17 per cent fashion industry growth annually. The promising potentials of this
industry is further supported by the demographic state as Indonesia is the largest Moslem
country in the world as there are 85.2 per cent Moslems of the 255 million population.
2. Literature review
Fashion is part of culture as people use and buy fashion product as a factor that creates their
identity. Cardoso et al. (2010) mentioned that fashion is used to communicate a social
identity that symbolize and express themself. In Indonesia, religion and trust become
inseparable parts that are embedded to society’s culture.
In recent years, Islamic fashion in Indonesia becomes a lifestyle perceived as fresh and new-
look trend. The Islamic fashion transforms from conservative to contemporary fashion that
suits youth Wilson (2014) mentioned the potential and change of this industry is due to the fact
that the proportion of youth market aged 25 years takes 40 per cent from the overall market.
2.3 Lifestyles
Lifestyles are defined as “patterns in which people live and spend time and money, reflecting
308 a person’s activities, interests, and opinions, as well as demographic variables” (Blackwell
et al., 2001, p. 219). Psychographic variables such as lifestyle provide more underlying
reason of consumer behavior while demographics provide physical attributes of consumers
that are easily observable to identify homogeneous groups. Psychographic variables help to
construe why they buy, while demographic variables focus on who buy products. Lifestyles
change more rapidly than value (Blackwell et al., 2001), so marketers must keep track
contemporary lifestyle trends of targets and reflect in product development, communication
message, or promotion strategy.
Lifestyle is subdivided into product-related lifestyle which is a person’s activities,
interests, and opinions about specific products. Consumers’ response to the internet
shopping mall would vary according to product categories, so we measured fashion
lifestyles to focus on fashion products online. Fashion lifestyles consist of fashion
orientation (fashion consciousness, fashion leadership) and clothing shopping orientation
(brand/retailer loyalty, utilitarian/hedonic orientation and impulsive/planned orientation).
3. Research method
3.1 Instrument and data collection
The instrument of data collection consists of three parts, including 39 items, using a
questionnaire research instrument using a seven-point scale. The first part has 33 question
items related to fashion and shopping lifestyle adapted from previous study (Park, 2004;
Flynn et al., 1996; Lertwannawit and Mandhachitara, 2012; Park-Poaps, 2009; Mittal et al.,
2009; Babin et al., 1994). The second part explores religiosity which involves four items
based on Aron et al.’s (2013) study. This research adds two more items about Sharia
compliance dressing style to measure Moslem dressing style. The overall items of the
second part are intended to measure consumer behavior related to religious faith value and
religious-based value dressing style orientation.
The last section included demographic information (age, gender, occupation and monthly
income per household) and internet usages (total hours to use the internet a day, total
number of connecting internet per day, the number of visiting fashion e-retailers per month).
(Table I for details).
The sample of this research is 697 respondents from four big cities in Indonesia (Jakarta,
Bandung, Surabaya, and Malang) with the population in this study constituting 264 million
Indonesian people. In accordance with the objectives, this study involved female
respondents over 16 years and wearing a headscarf to understand the required
questionnaire. An accidental sampling procedure with socio-demographic (sex, age and
habitat) quotas was used for selecting respondents. Other criteria (level of education and
annual expenditure on Factor Analysis products) were taken into account to ensure
geographical representation (see Table II for details). Accidental sampling is a technique of
determining samples based on accidents, in which whoever accidentally meets the
researcher can be treated as a sample. With this sampling method, it was acquired a total
sample of 697 respondents comprises of 437 respondents aged 20-26 years old (62.7 per cent)
and 520 respondents (73.7 per cent) whose status is single.
Islamic fashion
Factor (Cronbach’s a) Factor loading Eigen value % of variance Mean SD
lifestyle on
Fashion leadership (0.865) 9,668 23,020 Indonesian
Many people see me having 0.74 3.663 0.835
impressive fashion style woman
I get through my fashion collection 0.74 3.600 0.847
with new mode
I trust my ability to recognize 0.75 3.818 0.791 309
fashion trend
I am always stay updated with the 0.81 3.552 0.898
newest fashion development and
trend
I usually have one or more outfits 0.68 3.615 0.846
from the newest trend
Have an attractive style and 0.60 3.848 0.954
fashionable become important
matters for me
To have diverse collections, I 0.52 3.831 0.988
purchase from different places and
different brands
I know people that choose fashion 0.50 3.314 0.873
style based on what I suggest
Other people often come to me to 0.62 3.484 0.933
ask for some suggestions related to
fashion
Fashion follower (0.711) 4.578 10.900
When I consider new style, I ask 0.78 4.043 0.850
for other’s suggestion
I often look for information from 0.79 3.970 0.887
friends or family about fashion
product before I buy
Status consumption (0.855) 2.616 6.228
I can buy a product even it is only 0.71 3.063 1.050
due to its exclusiveness and
premium
I am interested in new and classy 0.71 3.338 1.052
product
I will pay more for product if it has 0.80 3.032 1.063
high status and reputation
A product can be more interesting 0.70 3.054 1.057
for me if it has attractiveness that I
can show off to others
Brand conciousness (0,760) 2.298 5.471
I trust well-known brand 0.66 3.923 0.928
Well-known brand must have good 0.77 3.994 0.931
quality
I buy well-known brand product 0.49 3.339 1.014
even the price is expensive
Personality pursuit (0.764) 2.175 5.178
Outfit is important to reflect my 0.83 4.340 0.881
personality Table I.
Results of the factor
(continued)
analysis
RJTA
23,4 Factor (Cronbach’s a) Factor loading Eigen value % of variance Mean SD
Demographic
Age
16-19 107 8,41 1,87 19,63 16,82 21,50 31,78
20-26 437 9,61 10,30 17,85 16,02 19,68 26,54
27-36 59 10,81 18,73 16,07 15,21 17,86 21,31
37-45 54 7,41 1,85 42,59 1,85 31,48 14,81
> 45 40 22,50 2,50 30,00 0,00 32,50 12,50
Marital status
Married 174 13,8 3,4 33,9 4,0 24,1 20,7
Single 520 8,7 9,0 18,1 16,9 20,6 26,7
Divorced 3 33,3 – 66,7 – – –
Occupational
Student 371 11,05 9,70 20,49 16,17 16,98 25,61
Government officer 29 13,79 3,45 20,69 10,34 31,03 20,69
Private employee 111 6,31 4,50 20,72 13,51 25,23 29,73
Professional; 5 40,00 – 20,00 – – 40,00
Physician, Lawyer
Art maker/ Artist/ 1 – – – – – 100,00
Athletes
Entrepreneur 19 31,58 5,26 31,58 5,26 15,79 10,53
Lecturer/Teacher 13 – 23,08 23,08 – 30,77 23,08
Unemployeed 7 14,29 42,86 – 14,29 14,29 14,29
Housewife 54 5,56 3,70 46,30 3,70 31,48 9,26
Ohters 87 6,90 2,30 17,24 14,94 27,59 31,03
(continued)
Indonesian
Demographic profile
311
woman
lifestyle on
Islamic fashion
Table II.
23,4
312
RJTA
Table II.
Cluster 2 Cluster 3 Cluster 4 Cluster 5
Cluster 1 Aspirant Syar’i Religious moderate Religious fashion Syar’i fashion Cluster 6
Hijab fashionista oriented dressing style follower follower Pragmatic hijabers
No. of (% between (% between (% between (% between (% between (% between
respondent demograpyc profile) demograpyc profile) demograpyc profile) demograpyc profile) demograpyc profile) demograpyc profile)
Monthly income
< IDR. 2,000,000 337 7,42 9,79 16,32 18,10 20,47 27,89
IDR. 2,000,001–IDR. 189 7,94 8,99 22,75 13,76 23,28 23,28
4,000,000
IDR. 4,000,001–IDR. 62 11,29 1,61 30,65 8,06 24,19 24,19
6,000,000
IDR. 6,000,001–IDR. 43 9,30 2,33 39,53 4,65 18,60 25,58
8,000.,00
> IDR. 8,000,000 66 28,79 1,52 31,82 1,52 19,70 16,67
The method of data collection is one of the important aspects related to the quality of data Islamic fashion
collected. The method of data collection used in this research is survey. The survey method lifestyle on
was conducted by distributing questionnaires to the respondents directly. Distribution of
questionnaires directly to respondents so that filling in according to the objectives of the
Indonesian
researcher. The survey itself was conducted by involving the surveyors. The surveyors woman
came from an independent research institution, which is a study center in a higher education
institution. Before the surveyors were assigned to the field, they were trained beforehand.
313
3.2 Data analysis
The statistical techniques used for analysis were as follows:
There are 33 statements to measure fashion and shopping lifestyle and 6 statements
to measure religiousity and hijab dressing style that are analyzed by using
exploratory factor analysis.
After finding a number of factors, it is further analyzed through confirmatory
cluster analysis to find the number of an ideal segmentation groups.
To validate the number of clusters obtained, discriminant analysis was conducted.
The predictive nature of the classification was corroborated by the classification
table and the obtained hit ratio.
5. Discussion
The results of this research identify 11 factors and 6 segments to group the respondents
based on Islamic fashion lifestyle. The cluster analysis demonstrates that the mean of
personality pursuit, Sharia dressing style orientation, and religiousity are above 4.00 for all
clusters. It implies that the consumers of Islamic fashion from the six clusters have high
religiousity level and high Sharia dressing orientation. It is due to the respondents are all
Moslem women who wear hijab as hijab is perceived to reflect an above-average level of
religiousity compared to those who do not wear hijab. Further, high personality pursuit
indicates that women who wear hijab understand that their way of dressing will reflect their
image and self-identity on the surrounding society; thus, improper way of dressing is a
matter that they avoid.
X1. Fashion
Leadership
Figure 2.
2.76 X5. Personality
Aspirant Sharia X8. Ulitarian Buyer 5.14 5.21 Pursuit
oriented (N = 53/8 3.86
X6. Economic
per cent) X7. Hedonic Buyer
Orientaon
level. This group is the most compliance in dressing based on Sharia orientation as they wear
wide hijab. They do not have orientation to the newest fashion trend and well-known brand.
They do not even want to achieve particular status as seen from their outfit. The characteristic
of this group is mostly rational buyer that makes planned-purchase decision. This segment is
not easily influenced by promotional program and very rarely to make emotional or impulse
buying decision. To target this market segment, the fashion product must be designed to be fit
with Sharia rule in conservative way. Based on the demographic data, the marketing approach
should be focused on the 20-36-year old consumers. This group makes rational purchase
decision as they only buy when they perceive that they need to buy but not when they are
exposed with promotional offerings or emotional intention.
religiousity; yet, they do not anti-fashion trend and can be grouped into fashion follower with
moderate dressing style that comply to Sharia rules. This segment has a strong internalization
to do prayers based on religious values without demonstrating an extreme behavior perceived
by their surroundings. This group can be found in all age categories but dominated by above
37 years old sample members. Based on the demographic information, the marketing approach
for this segment should be focused on consumers aged above 37 years old. However, they only
have a slight interest in famous brand, promotional activity and special offerings.
319
X9. Impulsif Buyer 3.28 3.69 X4. Brand Seeker
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