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Onboard Quality Systems: Stephen T. Grabacki
Onboard Quality Systems: Stephen T. Grabacki
Systems
Quality
Stephen T. Grabacki
CONTENTS
5.1 Introduction .................................................................................................... 57
5.2 Quality Concepts ............................................................................................ 58
5.3 Technical Background .................................................................................... 58
5.4 Onboard Quality Problems and Their Causes ................................................60
5.5 The Importance of Temperature Control........................................................ 61
5.6 Pre-Harvest Onboard Quality Practices ......................................................... 63
5.7 Fishing Methods and Onboard Handling .......................................................64
5.8 De Gustibus Non Disputandum ...................................................................... 65
5.9 Continual Improvements in Onboard Quality ................................................ 67
References ................................................................................................................ 70
5.1 INTRODUCTION
There are two basic types of customers who buy seafood:
• Trade customers, who intend to re-sell the seafood; these include second-
ary (“value added”) processors, wholesale distributors, retailers (super-
markets and food shops), and foodservice establishments (restaurants and
institutions)
• Ultimate consumers, who actually consume the seafood; they buy the sea-
food in retail outlets or they eat it in foodservice venues
Of the two, the trade customers are more willing and able to articulate their pref-
erences. The ultimate consumers (“end users”) simply “vote with their wallets,” by
choosing one product over another.
A word about competition—Seafood from a given source (e.g., Alaska) competes
with seafood from other sources, and those sources (e.g., Chile, Norway) have set
high standards for product quality and the ability to meet customer expectations.
But, it should be noted that all seafood competes with other protein sources: beef,
pork, chicken, turkey, and many others. In most markets, these non-seafood meats
out-compete all seafood on the basis of familiarity, price, predictability of supply,
and reliability of quality.
57
58 Environmental Effects on Seafood Availability, Safety, and Quality
Obviously, consumers expect all the positive intrinsic features, and they dislike
the negative extrinsic characteristics. In other words, we cannot improve the quality
of our products, we can only retard the loss of quality until the seafood reaches the
consumers. This perspective is important to everyone in the seafood supply chain,
“from boat to throat,” and especially for fishermen who process and sell their own
catch (Grabacki 2007).
From the moment of capture, seafood deserves the same respect and care as other
foods that are served to one’s family. In today’s competitive marketplace, the four-
part maxim is more important than ever:
1. Keep it cold.
2. Keep it clean.
3. Keep it moving.
4. Handle it gently.
or receiving) decrease the shelf life and value of the product. Shelf life has a strong
inverse relation to product temperature. In concept, the shelf life of chilled (non-
frozen) high-fat fish (salmon, herring, sablefish) can be as long as 12 days, starting
from the moment the fish dies; the shelf life for chilled low-fat fish can be as long as
14 days. However, these are theoretical maxima that assume immediate, unchanging
chilling (32°F, 0°C), and absolutely perfect handling. In practice, the actual shelf life
is less, which is why everyone in the supply chain (starting with the harvester!) must
do everything possible to avoid shortening this time period.
Quality begins to deteriorate even before a fish is landed. A fish in a net might be
squeezed and abraded by the mesh, and a fish on a hook can struggle and become
damaged. Further damage can occur as the fish is brought aboard the boat, removed
from the gear, and stored in the hold. Common mistakes include lifting or pulling
the fish by the tail, and dropping or squeezing the fish, which result in the forma-
tion of bruises and blood spots in the meat. Studies by the University of Alaska’s
Marine Advisory Program (MAP) have shown that these bruises can occur in dead
fish as well as live ones (Doyle 1995). Rough handling very often results in internal
defects that are not visible until the seafood reaches the customer—these unpleasant
“surprises” discourage customers from repeating their purchases.
Bacteria are present everywhere, including on and in the fish. As soon as the fish
dies, the bacteria go to work, digesting the flesh and producing chemicals that destroy
the texture and create unpleasant odors. The higher the temperature, the faster the
bacteria multiply, and the faster the fish spoils.
Fish have enzymes in their viscera and muscles. When a fish dies, the catabolic
enzymes are free to degrade the flesh, from the inside out. Like bacterial action,
enzyme activity increases in direct proportion to temperature.
Why do fish stink? If not chilled and handled properly, chemical changes take
place. Through the action of both bacteria and enzymes, trimethylamine oxide (a
substance found in all muscle tissue) is degraded to trimethylamine and dimeth-
ylamine. This is a particular problem for fishes that live near the surface of cold
oceanic habitats—such as Alaska salmon. It is important to note that the ideal tem-
perature for non-frozen fish is 32°F (0°C), continuously from the moment of capture.
Any temperature higher than this will accelerate the deterioration of the products.
When a dead fish is exposed to air, it undergoes dehydration and oxidation.
Dehydration—the loss of moisture—results in toughening and discoloration of the
meat. Oxidation is caused by the chemical reaction of fish oils with oxygen. Both
dehydration and oxidation are easily prevented through good temperature control,
proper stowage, and rapid delivery to the processing plant.
Unlike many other fishes, Alaska salmon are generally harvested during their
spawning “run” (migration), as they return from feeding grounds in the ocean to
spawning grounds in streams. Salmon grow rapidly in the ocean, in some cases
as much as one pound per week during the summer. As they grow in size, the oil
content in their flesh increases. As they approach their natal streams, salmon stop
feeding and their intrinsic quality begins to deteriorate. Stored oil and protein are
used as energy sources and for maturation of the gonads. The carotenoid (red) pig-
ments are transferred from the meat to the skin and eggs. As maturity progresses,
the bright silvery skin turns dark red or brown. This is one of the ways in which
60 Environmental Effects on Seafood Availability, Safety, and Quality
fisheries management (selection of fishing times and areas) affects salmon quality
(see Chapter 4 for more information).
Rigor mortis is the stiffening of the fish’s muscles after death. Immediately after
death (the “pre-rigor” period), the fish is flexible; but pre-rigor does not last very
long. Soon, rigor mortis sets in and the fish becomes stiff and inflexible. This is
caused by chemical changes, which produce lactic acid that retards bacterial growth.
In the “post-rigor” phase, the fish becomes flaccid and the acidity dissipates; this
allows the growth of bacteria and the onset of spoilage (Doyle 1995). The longer that
a fish stays in pre-rigor and rigor (i.e., the longer that post-rigor is delayed), the slower
the ensuing degradation and the better the quality. Fish that struggle in the net will
pass quickly through rigor, as will fish that are warm—both factors tend to decrease
the quality of the seafood. In short, extending rigor prolongs quality (Doyle 1995).
For salmon and many other fishes, the primary cause of quality loss is physical
damage. Usually, these defects are caused by poor onboard practices (condensed
from Doyle 1995):
treatment during landing the fish on board the boat, or off-loading fish to a
tender vessel or at the dock. The tendency for a fish to bruise is amplified by
high temperature.
• Mushy (soft) flesh: A common problem caused by poor handling and/or
high temperature. This includes long delivery or pre-process holding times.
All these quality defects are not only serious, they are insidious in their impacts—
they are caused by poor onboard handling practices, but they are not apparent to the
fishermen (the people who cause many of the problems). The defects only become
apparent when the fish are split, filleted, or steaked, which happens long after they
have moved into the seafood supply chain. These hidden, but serious, defects not
only degrade quality, they also diminish the marketability of the seafood, by disap-
pointing the customers and consumers. Even worse, they can significantly decrease
the “yield” of seafood production, because some of the product must be trimmed
away or discarded completely.
Other factors that degrade quality include:
All the factors outlined in this section are within the control of, and are the
responsibility of, the harvester.
Many fishermen believe that holding salmon from 12 to 24 hours at ambient tempera-
ture does little damage. This is sheer nonsense. As pointed out above, the first few
hours after death are critical in determining the duration of the pre-rigor and rigor
periods. Extending rigor as long as possible is a primary objective of chilling fish.
(Doyle 1995; emphasis in original)
62 Environmental Effects on Seafood Availability, Safety, and Quality
The ideal temperature for holding freshly caught fishes, especially those most sus-
ceptible to spoilage (species that inhabit cold water, are surface-dwelling, and/or are
ocean-dwelling), is 31°F–32°F (–0.56°C to 0.0°C). Warmer temperatures accelerate
loss of quality, and colder temperatures damage the product through the formation of
ice crystals and concentration/activation of enzymes. Experiments conducted by the
MAP of the University of Alaska (Doyle 1995) indicate that the shelf life of salmon is
approximately halved by raising the holding temperature from 0°C to 4°C (Table 5.1).
In the Alaska fisheries for salmon, halibut, and groundfish (Alaska pollock, Pacific
cod, sablefish, flatfish, etc.), there are four general methods of onboard chilling:
• Ice: ice in direct contact with fish; flake ice is better than large chunks;
works best if fish and ice are layered (rather than merely “top-iced”); ice is
stuffed into the belly cavity of large fish (e.g., halibut).
Advantages: keeps fish fresher longer; can produce a better-appearing prod-
uct; as ice melts, water rinses bacteria off the fish; cost is not very high.
Disadvantages: usually requires a watertight fish hold or tote; requires
more labor than chilled seawater (CSW) or refrigerated seawater (RSW);
deep holds require shelving; supply of ice is not always available.
• Chilled seawater (also called “champagne ice”): fish hold contains ice and
seawater; air is bubbled up through the mixture.
TABLE 5.1
Relative Rates of Spoilage and Loss of Equivalent Days on Ice
for Different Temperatures and Times
Source: Doyle, J.P. 1995. Care and Handling of Salmon: The Key to Quality. Marine
Advisory Program, School of Fisheries and Ocean Sciences, University of
Alaska Fairbanks.
Note: Equivalent days on ice computations were carried out to three places for math-
ematical accuracy only. Owing to biological variability within a species, num-
bers are meaningful only to one place past the decimal point. For example, if a
fish is held at 50ºF (10ºC) for 24 h, r = 4 means that 4 days of shelf life are used
in 24 h, and 2 days are used in 12 h.
Onboard Quality Systems 63
Advantages: requires less labor than layer-icing; cheaper than RSW; absorbs
heat well.
Disadvantages: more expensive to install than plain icing; requires more
ice than layer-icing because both water and fish must be chilled.
• Refrigerated seawater: Fish hold is full of seawater, which is chilled and
circulated by a refrigeration compressor and pump.
Advantages: low labor requirements; requires no ice; cools fish rapidly.
Disadvantages: more expensive to install; more difficult to maintain;
greater temperature fluctuation as more fish are added; difficult to install
on small boats.
• Slush ice: slurry mixture of water and finely divided ice particles; relatively
new technology.
Advantages: rapid chilling; not expensive; not labor intensive; works well
on small boats.
Disadvantages: supply of slurry ice not always available in all areas.
The interested reader is referred to Doyle (1995) for a detailed discussion of layer-
ice, CSW, and RSW, as well as greater background on seafood quality.
In general, fish spoil faster than other protein foods. Therefore, good onboard
housekeeping practices are essential. On a busy fishing boat, fish slime, scales,
gurry, juices, and parts (e.g., fin fragments) find their way everywhere. This means
that all fish contact surfaces must be cleaned and sanitized well and often. Cleaning
and sanitizing are two separate actions.
Cleaning removes dirt and fish materials. In particular, it is necessary to remove
the sticky fish proteins. Begin with a thorough flushing of all areas. Proper use of
64 Environmental Effects on Seafood Availability, Safety, and Quality
• Never allow animals of any kind (pets, seagulls, etc.) on board a fishing
boat.
• Never use phenol-based cleaning or sanitizing agents. They will contami-
nate the product.
• Never mix chlorine-based agents with ammonia-based agents. This will
produce toxic chlorine gas.
CSW and RSW systems must also be sanitized. In general, the same methods and
materials may be used. Manufacturers of RSW systems can provide guidance.
• Troll: Retrieve and stun the fish as soon as they are hooked.
• Trawl: Shorter tows are better, to avoid both struggling and crushing.
• Longline: Shorter sets are better; stun the fish as they are brought on board.
• Gillnet: Pick the fish from the net as often as possible, ideally once per hour
• Purse-seine: Generally not an issue. Fish are usually brought on board
promptly.
In troll, longline, and gillnet fisheries, it is recommended that the fish are stunned
with a blow to the head, and bled while they are still alive. Stunning prevents
Onboard Quality Systems 65
damage to the flesh, and proper bleeding chills the fish and flushes out many cata-
bolic enzymes. In high-volume fisheries such as trawl and seine, however, this is
not practicable. Bleeding is best accomplished by cutting or ripping several gills;
cutting the “throat” is effective, but can damage and stop the heart, which defeats
the purpose.
Ideally, allowing the fish to “bleed out” in seawater, rather than in air on deck,
is most effective. Some salmon trollers in southeast Alaska use a technique called
“pressure bleeding,” in which cold, clean fresh water is pumped through the fish’s
circulatory system—this is time consuming, but results in a product of superior
quality.
In the troll (salmon) and longline (halibut, sablefish, Pacific cod) fisheries, large
fish are often gaffed to assist in bringing them on board. Proper gaffing technique—
in the head only—is essential to avoid damaging or contaminating the flesh (Kramer
& Paust 1985).
Fish must be removed from the fishing gear quickly and as gently as possible.
Trawl- and seine-caught fish are simply emptied from the net into the hold. Hooked
fish (troll and longline) are usually unhooked rather easily, especially if “circle-type”
hooks are used. Gillnet-caught fish can sometimes be problematic and certain pre-
cautions must be observed, such as
• Pick the fish from the net by handling the head; do not pull the tail.
• Do not wind the fish onto the net reel or pile them into a net pile.
• Gently place the fish into chutes and holds; do not throw, drop, or kick
them.
In all cases, in all fisheries, it is necessary to handle the fish as gently as possible.
One practical application of these principles is the conduct of the fishery. For
example, from the point of view of seafood quality, an ideal Alaska salmon fishery
would have certain attributes:
• Harvest method does not damage the fish: the fish have no net marks or
bruises caused by the method of fishing.
• Post-harvest handling is minimal and gentle; perfect handling means each
fish is handled only once, by hand, and that the fish are not flexed during
pre-, in- and post-rigor, only well after rigor.
• Chilling begins immediately after harvest, and fish never get warm, because
poorly chilled fish are either rejected or command a lower price from the plant.
• All fish are bled while alive, and any fish landed dead or not bled are kept
separate from the higher-quality bled fish.
• Delivery is quick, within six hours of capture; ideally, fishing periods are
short and fishing areas are near the processor (of course, this is often not
the case in the real world).
• No tendering (trans-shipment and consolidation of fish from many harvest-
ers), dock deliveries only, in order to minimize handling; at minimum, ten-
ders segregate well-handled fish from poorly handled fish (again, not always
practical in the real world).
TABLE 5.2
Quality-Related Responsibilities of Each Link in the Onboard Supply Chain
of Alaska Salmon
Receiving Dock At Processing
Harvester Tender (Delivery) Vessel Plant
• Proper sanitation • Proper sanitation • Proper sanitation
• Proper chilling (ice, slush, • Check tender RSW • Check product chilling
RSW) temperature • Check vessel hold density
• Cold fish temperatures • Check product chilling • Check tender chilling
• Proper bleeding • Check product separation • Check tender receiving log
• Density of fish in hold • Check brailer weights • Check tender RSW density
• Fish age, post-capture • Use double lifting straps • Brailer weights
• Gentle handling • Check fish temperatures • Use double lifting straps
• Careful removal of fish from • Check fish condition • Use non-marking brailers
gear • Communication with (fish delivery bags)
• Bruising fishermen • Maintain RSW temperature
• Softness • Check bleeding • Maintain RSW density
• Overall fish condition • Layer icing (if applicable) • Check fish temperatures
• Prompt delivery • Ice condition (no lumps) • Check bleeding
• Density of fish in RSW • Check fish condition
tank • Make accept/reject decision
• Make accept/reject • Keep accurate dock
decision receiving logs
• Frequent deliveries to plant • Layer icing in totes (if
• Communication with dock applicable)
• Overall handling • Ice condition (no lumps)
• Overall organization • Condition of fish totes (large
• Keep accurate receiving boxes)
logs • Density of fish in totes
• Notify plant of problems • Overall handling
• Overall organization
• Communication with
fishermen and tender
operators
• Notify QA manager of
problems
TABLE 5.3
An Example of a Grading System for Onboard Salmon Quality
Product Grades
Characteristics as
Observed On Board Standard Select Choice Premium
Handling
Properly bled? Not necessary Not necessary Optional Yes
Properly chilled? Yes Yes Yes Yes
Head cuts Ragged Sightly ragged None None
Flesh texture/softness Moderately soft Slightly soft Firm, resilient Firm, resilient
Skin cuts ≤3 in. 1 cut, ≤2 in. 1 cut, ≤1 in. None
Deep cuts ≤3 in. 2 cuts, ≤2 in. 1 cut, ≤1 in. None
Punctures Minor None None None
External bruising ≤3 in. ≤1 in. ≤½ in. None
Scale loss >40% ≤40% ≤25% ≤15%
Red bellies (stale >6 in. ≤6 in. ≤2 in. None
fish)
Odor Slight Neutral Fresh Fresh
Eyes Milky Slightly dull Bright, clear Bright, clear
Gills Dull Pink Red Bright red
Skin
Color/watermark Dull Dull, slight Only slight None, bright only
pink dulling
Slime Dull Cloudy Clear Clear
Net marks Moderate Slight No indentations No indentations
Scars and sores >2 in. ≤2 in., healed ≤1 in., healed None
Tail and fins Fin loss okay Moderate Minor fraying No damage
fraying
Physical shape Moderate Slight No deformities No deformities
deformity deformity
If processed at sea
Internal
Color Fading Slight fading Bright, natural Bright, natural
Belly burn Red, not purple Pink None None
Bone exposure ≤8 ≤4 ≤2 None
Cleaning Traces of blood Trace of blood Complete Complete
Gaping >10% ≤10% Slight ≤1 sq. in.
Bruises and ≤3 in. ≤2 in. ≤½ in. None
bloodspots
Flesh texture/softness Moderately soft Slightly soft Firm, resilient Firm, resilient
If the quality of seafood is graded according to a system like the one in Table 5.3,
one can generally expect a “bell-shaped” distribution of quality grades (Figure 5.2),
in which:
Frequent application of the PDCA cycle to onboard practices (fishing gear, fish-
ing operations, fish handling, and fish stowage) can improve product quality and
Plan
Act Do
Check
Relative proportion
FIGURE 5.2 Schematic illustration of the relative proportion of product in each quality
grade.
reduce variability of quality. In particular, fewer fish would fail the grading, fewer
fish would achieve only the minimum standard grade, and more fish would be graded
as choice and premium—thus improving both product yield and market price.
REFERENCES
Doyle, J.P. 1995. Care and Handling of Salmon: The Key to Quality. Marine Advisory Program,
School of Fisheries and Ocean Sciences, University of Alaska Fairbanks.
Grabacki, S.T. 2007. Considering quality. In: Fishermen’s Direct Marketing Manual, ed.
T. Johnson. Marine Advisory Program, School of Fisheries and Ocean Sciences,
University of Alaska Fairbanks.
Kramer, D.E. and Paust, B.C. 1985. Care of Halibut aboard the Fishing Vessel. Marine
Advisory Program, School of Fisheries and Ocean Sciences, University of Alaska
Fairbanks, Marine Advisory Bulletin #18.
Tague, N.R. 2005. The Quality Toolbox, Second edition. Milwaukee, WI: American Society
for Quality Press.