Building a Zip Line

Intro 1
Parts and gear 3
Tools 8
Anchors 10
Cable attachments 11
All about your Cable 14
Braking and adjusting 17
Center dismount 23
End dismount 25
Deck dismount 29
Really long zip lines 31
Ladder safety 34
Pole class tables 35

Building your own back yard zip line for family and friends can be fun and exciting!
Mostly though, it can be dangerous, harmful, and full of liability. You should consult a
professional builder and be adequately trained by a challenge course professional to
have a zip line on your property. Adventure Rope Gear, Lynx Challenge Courses Inc.,
The Rope Gear Shop, Rope Links, and all other associates are NOT responsible for the
results if you choose to install and operate your own zip line, flying fox, or challenge
course based on these incomplete and inadequate instructions! You MUST read and
understand all instructions before starting your little project here. Questions? Call our
office.

What is a Zip Line?

A zip line is a cable strung between two points on which a trolley (pulley) is attached.
The riders are harnessed in and connected to the trolley and slide down the cable for a
thrilling ride.

There are two basic types of zip lines; Center dismount and End dismount. There are
also non harnessed hold-on zip lines known as Crash dismount or EMT dismounts.
These are rarely appropriate but sometimes used over water or on very low and slow
cables.

Center Dismount Zip Line

Brake

Fig. 1
Center dismount is the safer version and requires less technical skill to design and
build. The center dismount is hung with a considerable ‘belly’ or drape in the cable. The
passenger launches and speeds down to the center then starts up the other side. The
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passenger slows to a stop before reaching the end of the cable and slides back down to
the center where they are dismounted using a ladder or removable platform. Center
dismount zips can be as long as 1,500 feet without specialized equipment. The weight
of the rider, trolley type, and wind speed are not really factors for center dismount zips.
Because they are dismounted with a ladder, riders must come close to the ground
during their ride. If there is even the slightest movement of the anchors, the rider may
hit the ground at bone breaking speeds. The most common tragedy associated with
center dismount zips is the rider crashing into the ladder which should have been
removed after the last rider dismounted ankle twist and falls associated with the ladder
are also common ZIP LINES ARE DANGEROUS!

End Dismount Zip Line

Brake

Fig. 2

End dismount Zip Lines or Walk up landing Zips are used for most commercial canopy
tours and zip line tours where riders go from one end to the other and land on a
platform or ground near the very end of the zip line cable. These are highly technical to
install. The weight of the rider, wind speed, and type of trolley used will affect the
speed and the landing for each rider; sometimes causing the rider to smack the end of
the cable very fast, causing injury. The rider may also not make it to the end and be
stuck 30 feet away for the landing zone necessitating a rescue. The longer the cable,
the more unpredictable the ride. A professional should be consulted if designing and
End dismount zip line longer than 200 feet. The most common tragedies included high
speed collisions with landing area and falls while approaching or dismounting. (A
professional should be consulted when designing or installing any zip line! ZIP LINES
ARE DANGEROUS!)

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 ZIP LINE PARTS AND GEAR
Zip Line Trolley** – A pulley** used to ride the cable. The sheaves or wheels must be steel for use
on cable. Aluminum sheaves can only be used on rope. Aluminum sheaves will quickly disintegrate if
used on steel cable. A zip line trolley must also have a backup system; usually a second wheel. Most also
have a through bolt or folded over body to protect against catastrophic failure should the sheave or axel
fail. It is imperative to use a proper trolley for your zip line as trolley failure can and will cause severe
injury, death, or worse! Trolleys should be rated for 5 times the expected load of the rider. Inspect you
trolley daily for wear and damage to sheaves, side plates, connection point, and axels. Be sure your
trolley is rated for more than the anticipated speed of the runs.
**A trolley moves along a cable. A pulley is fixed. The rope or cable moves through the fixed pulley.
GOOD TROLLEYS

SR71 Tandem Speed Trac P24 CMI Micro Trolley CMI Zip Trolley

BAD TROLLEYS

Carabiners
Used to connect things together like the trolley to the handle bar, the tether to the harness, etc. Locking
carabiners are required. Non lockers will, no doubt, open without warning causing pain and death. Screw
gates are good but they must be locked manually each time. Twist locks and triple locks fix that, but are
trickier to learn and need occasional cleaning to function properly. Aluminum carabiners are appropriate
in most cases except where the carabiner may come in contact with the cable. ONLY steel carabiners can
come in contact with steel cable.

Twist lock Steel triple lock Steel twist lock Steel screw gate Alum screw gate Non locking

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Handles
Obviously needed for no-harness zip lines. The heavier steel handles are great for outdoor abuse and
long life. The plastic handles are ideal for kids zip lines, and some harnessed runs in non critical
applications. For many harnessed zip lines, the tether works just fine as a handle. If the tether is long,
then riders may get rope burn if they grab too high on the tether at launch, then slip during zipping. A
handle placed at a point where riders are fully weighting their harness and have the right angle

Plastic handles 20” steel handle Using tether as handle Trolley handle rig

Tether
5,000 lbs minimum breaking strength. 2” webbing and static climbing rope are most common. An
adjustable strap with a 22” – 39” is recommended. Proper tether length is critical for safety. Changing
the tether length effects the elevation and speed of zip riders, vastly affecting the outcome.

40” Rope tethers Adjustable lanyard Double rope lanyard Multi loop straps
Harness
Seat harnesses are generally fine for most zip lines. Full body harnesses are recommended if riders go
superman or go upside-down. Full-bodies are good to have around if you’re building a permanent
addition to your yard. Full-bodies are best for children and large adults (225#+). Children have little
shape (no curves) and can slip out of a sit harness if they go up-side-down. Large adults tend to be top
heavy and may flip up-side-down, possibly sliding out of a sit harness.

The parachute buckles are recommended over traditional ’double-back’ buckles. They are much easier to
adjust and tighten, especially for kids. They do loosen some over time where as the ‘double-backs’ tend
to hold their fit. The ‘double-backs’ require practice and experience to really master.

Petzl Simba or Robertson Padded Robertson Guide or Petzl Gym Robertson Full
Ouisti Cyprus - A great Cyprus- A ‘easy on-easy Harness A Body Zip Harness
Childs Full body comfortable harness off’ harness that adjusts climbing harness Recommended for
harnesses for kids for building and easily and is almost good for zip line 200+ lbs riders,
4 – 10 years old. padded runs. If you intuitive to put on. The runs. A bit hard to upside-down, and
Easily donned even will zip a lot, then Cyprus also has hook in tighten for little superman style
by young children. you want a padded loop in back. XS, ML, XL hands. Great multi- rides. Always Fun!
harness! XS, ML, XL purpose harness. XS, ML, XL

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Harness vs. no Harness – Harnesses, helmets and safety tethers should be used on
almost all zip lines! The only exception would be very short, very slow, and very low zip
lines designed for younger children or zip lines running over water. Unharnessed zip
lines should never have the participant more than 2-3 feet above the ground or water
surface. Unharnessed zip lines should never allow the rider to travel more than 10 MPH.
Unharnessed zip lines should never be longer than 100 feet. MOST importantly, the
ground under unharnessed zip lines should be soft sand, fluffy grass or deep water
totally free of rocks, exposed tree roots, hard pack dirt, and any and all debris. Many
times the rider will not be able to hold on and fall at the launch point which is usually
the highest point off the ground. If they can get hurt by just jumping off the launch
point without holding on, then harnesses should be used. ALWAYS picture and avoid
the worst case scenario. Even water zips may have a few feet of land before the rider
gets over the water. Don’t be Dumb!!! BE SAFE!!! With a child’s harness at least, you
can send little ones down your zip line with at least a diminished safety concern.
Helmet
You’re zipping through the yard and a humongous dead branch falls from
overhead….You will at least need a helmet during construction and want to have one on
hand when the accident insurance investigator comes. It shows family and friends that
you have an awareness and concern for safety even if just to placate them.

Various helmets for protecting the noggin

Cable
The highway in the sky. Get new cable and follow all the instructions you can find!
Cable or anchor failure means doom and disaster! 3/8” 7 x 19 galvanized aircraft cable
is generally recommended, ¼” or 5/16” may be OK for certain applications never
exceeding 200’ in length. ½” is needed for runs over 600’. Rope is totally inappropriate
for permanent zip line installation. Its stretch and elongation is fairly unpredictable and
rope zip lines will eventually cause pain and death.

Braking System
A gravity braking system is best! Gravity never fails. An active braking system may be
needed. Active brakes need maintenance and inspection to avoid injury and death.
More on this later.

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Cable Clamps (WIRE-ROPE CLIPS) Drop forged (NOT the chincy hardware store brand which
are malleable and will NOT hold under load!) You may want to get an extra one in case
you drop and loose one of the nuts during installation (very common). Follow the
instructions and retighten clamps after they are initially loaded.

FORGED CLAMP PROPERLY INSTALLED CLAMPS STAINLESS STEEL MALLEABLE CLAMP- BAD!
CLAMPS
INSTALLING WIRE-ROPE CLIPS The correct and incorrect ways of using these clips are
shown in figure 110. The U-bolt always goes over the bitter end and the roddle(saddle) goes on the
standing part(working end). Space the clips at a distance apart equal to six times the diameter of the
wire. After the rope is under strain, tighten the clips again as a safety measure. The clips must be
rechecked periodically thereafter and retightened as needed. Pay particular attention to the wire at
the clip farthest from the eye because vibration and whipping are dampened here and fatigue
breaks are likely to occur. To obtain maximum strength, you must use the correct size and
number of wire clips. The size is stamped on the roddle between the two holes.
Fist Grip Clamps are an improved type of wire rope clip. Both halves are identical and
provide a bearing surface for both parts of the rope. Thus, it cannot be put on wrong and
it does not distort the wire. It also allows a full swing with a wrench. Fist grips are
pricey($6–$10 each) but are the only clamps approved (osha) for life support systems.
Personnel handling wire rope must always wear gloves. Even new wire occasionally has
a fishhook that, if allowed to slide through the unprotected hand, can inflict a painful
hand injury.

Figure 110

INSTALLATION SPECS WIRE ROPE CLIPS (CABLE CLAMPS)

CABLE SIZE GALVENIZED & STAILESS STEEL CLAMPS FIST GRIP CLAMPS
Clip Size Rope Size Weight Turn Back *Torque in Turn Back *Torque in
Min # Clips Min # Clips
in (In) in” - mm Lbs per foot (in” - cm) lbf*ft - Kn (in” - cm) lbf*ft - Kn
1/4 1/4” - 6-7 .11 2 5” - 12.0 15# - 20.3 2 5” - 10.1 30# - 40.7
5/16 5/16” - 8 .175 2 5-1/4” - 13.3 30# - 40.7 2 5” - 12.7 30# - 40.7
3/8 3/8” - 9-10 .25 2 6-1/2” - 16.5 #
45 - 61 2 6” - 13.3 45# - 61.0
1/2 1/2” - 13 .45 3 12” - 29.2 #
65 - 88 3 12” - 27.9 65# - 88.1
5/8 5/8” - 16 .72 3 12” - 30.5 #
95 - 129 3 14” - 34.2 130# - 176
3/4 3/4” - 18-20 1.04 4 20” – 45.2 #
130 - 176 3 18” - 40.6 225# - 305
If cable is critical application (zip line, life support, belay cable), add one additional clip!!
If a greater number of clips are used than show in the table, the amount of turnback should be increased proportionally.
* The tightening torque values shown are based upon the threads being clean, dry and free of lubrication. Foot pounds and kN

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**IMPORTANT!!! Apply first load to test the assembly. This load should be equal or greater weight than loads expected in
use. Next, check and retighten nuts to recommended torque. In accordance with good rigging and maintenance practices,
the wire rope end termination should be inspected periodically for wear, abuse, and general adequacy.

Hose Wrap – If you are wrapping the cable around the tree or post and not using
bolts. Clear reinforced PVC high pressure hose ½” or ¾” Inside diameter. You should
thinly wrap the cable end with electric tape to prevent fraying. Once your cable frays
you can only cut it and start over. Lubricant can be used to ease the cable passage
through tight places.

A staple can be used to hold the wrapped cable in place once installed. 702 771 3644

Through Eye Bolts - Bolts are less intrusive to trees and generally preferred for long
term applications. Galvanized 5/8” eye bolts or Thimble eye bolts are recommended.
¾” bolts may be needed for long runs. Lag screws or Screw-in eye bolts will fail and
cause pain, injury, and death. Each through bolt must also have two Round Washers
(for trees) or Square Washers (for poles and steel posts) and a Thimble to protect
the cable from shear stress.

Lock Washers Square Washers Round Washers Thimbles

Nut Eye Bolts are more versatile and can be loaded in multiple directions. A thimble is
required to soften the turnback and reduce the shearing force to the cable. Nut eye
bolts are usually stronger that thimble eyes. When installing long or tight zip line
cables, we recommend using nut eye bolts for improved safety.
Thimble Eye Bolts are forged in two styles, straight and bent at a
45-degree angle. They are used for attaching cables and guy wires
to poles and trees, eliminating the need for thimbles, strain plates,
and guy hooks. They can only be loaded in the direction of bolt
alignment. Bolt length is measured from below the eye to the last
thread.

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Serving Sleeves – These are really nice to keep the cable ends
tidy. Cable ends can get frayed exposing needle like wires that
pierce to the bone. Electrical tape will also work. Duct tape sucks
for this application because it deteriorates and becomes a mess.
Any tape can trap moisture causing rust and cable failure which is
even worse than frayed cable ends.

Turnbuckles – Hot dipped Galvanized are only appropriate

for shorter zip lines (<200’) They are not rated for the kinds
of loads generated by longer zip lines. They do give the
option of slightly adjusting the cable without dismantling the
termination points. 5/8” is the minimum size to be used. 3/4”
are better, stronger, faster and recommended. 5/8” x 12” or
3/4” x 18’ galvanized (Not found at Home depot or Ace).
Turnbuckles should not be relied on as a life supporting link. You must back-up a
turnbuckle on a zip line!! They WILL Fail! (Made in china and such)
Staples
These are used to give access to a pole or tree as
steps. They can also be used to secure cable from
sliding down when wrapped around a pole or tree.
A pilot hole should be drilled when installing a
staple; 5/16” for 3/8” staples and 7/16” for ½”
staples.

TOOLS:
Socket Wrench – With appropriate sized socket for the cable clamp nuts. If working with
3/8” or 1/2” cable you should get or borrow a decent ½” drive socket wrench. The $4.99
sale set at the local Ace hardware will quickly fail and cause you frustration and unneeded
anger. After all, zip lines are supposed to be fun! (dangerously)
An 18V cordless impact driver is especially sweet to work with. Make sure you have
extra socket adapters. Torque wrenches should be used if working with longer cable runs
or larger cables. Under torqued clamps fail! Over torqued clamps also fail!

Socket wrench Cordless impact driver Torque wrench

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Come Along – A standard 6’
or 12’ cable type ‘fence puller’
will do. These seem easy
enough but they take practice
to efficiently adjust and release
tension.
Chain puller Cable puller (fence puller) Truck Winch

For zip lines 1000’ or more you will need a chain puller or a truck winch.
Havens Grips – These are basically cable grippers; quite
expensive ($50+ each) but they make the cable pulling really
pro. Slide and go; Adjusts grip position on the cable easily. if
you’re looking at a big job or eager to spend money and have
more cool tools around then these are invaluable. They come
with or without the side gate. Havens grips come in larger
and smaller sizes but the 3/8” will usually work with ½” - ¼”
cable. To avoid slipping, they should be set by hand before or
during tensioning. You can use cable clamps to hold your
come-along hooks if you are the budget builder.
Adjustable Wrench – for through bolts
(again get one with at least a 10” handle to
avoid frustration and anger) a second
adjustable wrench or big screwdriver can
be used to keep the bolts from spinning.

Drill – For installing through bolts or staples. An 11/16” auger bit is needed for 5/8”
through bolts; obviously long enough to go through the tree or pole you are bolting. A 6+
amp corded drill is recommended for trees or poles thicker than 10”. A good cordless drill
(18+V) can work for a skilled drill operator. Smaller auger bits drill pilot holes for staple
installation if you are using the wrap around method. Drills and drill bits are great for
causing injury when they are used improperly!

Hammer – Always a good thing to have on a

build site. A smooth head 16 – 24 oz helps
bolts and staples find their way home. Waffle
heads will scar up poles and bolts. A 2 – 4 lb
hammer is great for pounding in ½” x 6” or 8”
staples.

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Step Ladder – 10’ minimum for dismount and attaching cables. You
may need a longer extension ladder (16’ – 30’) to reach attachment
points especially for longer runs. Follow all safety guidelines. Your
ladder will be probably be involved in some of your most painful
experiences of this zip line endeavor.

60’ piece of rope – For testing your zip line. You will probably need a few ropes before
you’re done.
Camera – You definitely want to document this epic building project.

First Aid Kit – This will be needed for the inevitable cable impalements, scrapes, cuts,
and bruises that will you will proudly earn during this project.

ANCHORS –
You will need solid anchor points at each end of you cable. Remember that the load will
be many times greater that the weight of the rider. A good rule of thumb is that your
anchors need to hold 1,000# + 200# for each 100’ of run. (500’ = 1,800#) For you
mathematicians, here is the actual formula to determine exact anchor loads:

(Maybe) Load x Span (in feet) = Tension

4 x Sag (in feet)

So a 500’ cable with a 5% sag and a 200# rider looks like this:

(200 + 125*) x 500 = 1,625 # of load on anchors

4 x 25
*weight of cable

Trees are usually good anchors and readily available in many

areas. If using trees, you will need to be sure the branch or
trunk you are attaching to is at least 8” in diameter + 1”
for every 100’ of run. A 400’ run needs a tree 12” in
diameter at the attachment point. The tree should be living,
healthy and in solid ground. It should be growing straight up
or slightly angled away for the cable run. An arborist should
be consulted if you are in doubt of the stability of the tree. It
is important to try to preserve the trees health. Dead, dying,
burned, damaged, and hollowed out trees should not be
used…duh!

Inadequate anchor points will spell doom and disaster for your zip line project severely
injuring or killing family, friends, and loved ones. You should probably know that ZIP
LINES ARE DANGEROUS!

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Poles may be needed if you are living in Arizona or your trees suck. Industry standards
call for a minimum class 2 pole. You may be able to get away with a thinner pole if your
guy anchors are bomber and you run is short and slack. You should not place anchors
within one foot of pole top. Poles should be treated with a water-bourn preservative.
Poles that smell like oil should not contact human skin (bad carcinogenic chemicals; yea
cancer causing). Most power poles are treated with oil-bourn preservatives which are
unhealthy at best. Old, used power poles are garbage and should not be used! Concrete
is usually not required but may be needed if your hole is not deep enough or you are
building on a beach or in a mud pit. Back fill dirt must be tamped densely and
thoroughly. All poles MUST incorporate guy wires in order to hold expected loads. Guys
can be anchored to the base of appropriately located trees or underground anchors
sometimes called a ‘deadman’ (not to be confused with your first test passenger).

Utility Pole depth Zips, Poles, & Guy Cables Zip, Pole, & Guy Cables Setting Big Poles

Guy Anchors and cables – Guys are used to transfer the horizontal load of a zip line
into a compressive load pushing the anchor tree or pole down instead of sideways. Guys
are required when using poles. They are used extensively for telephone and power
poles. The guy is in effect, anchoring the zip line anchor load into the ground. Guys must
support twice the load to the receiving pole: 6000# minimum holding power. Guys must
be also set back at a 45O angle to the pole to avoid excessive loading.

6,000# min.
strength

5’ minimum

12” best

Guy Wire angles: 45o is ideal. Ground Anchors Poor man’s Anchor

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 Five foot screw type earth anchor Dog anchor for dogs only!

Cable attachments: to wrap or bolt? Cable can be attached using bolts or wrapping
around the tree or pole. Wrapping is less intrusive and can be adjusted up or down
without more tree damage. Wrapping doesn’t kink the cable (too bad) allowing you to let
out slack or tighten the cable with minimal damage (usually).
When wrapping trees some type of protective layer (reinforced clear PVC hose is
ideal) is needed. Clear hose allows you to inspect for rust and damage without
dismantling you zip line. The hose may trap water, dead bugs, spiders, and sap causing
rust so the bottom of the hose should be split or drilled to allow water to drain.
Wrapping require that clamps be placed a certain distance from the tree to prevent
strangling and killing the tree(fig 20) The down side of wraps is that you would need to
reach out farther from the tree to load your trolley onto the cable.
Bolts are permanently placed and should not be moved too often. Adjusting cable
length is more difficult because a permanent dent will be present where the loaded cable
was turned back through the bolt.
BOLTS FAIL occasionally because of manufacturing defects, so bolts must be
backed up with a separate cable loop around the tree or pole. Two bolts may be used
for redundancy against bolt failure. Using bolts allow you to load the trolley on the cable
only 10” -14” away from the tree or pole.
Wrapping
Wrapping poles can be done a couple of different ways.
The basic around the back side (fig 20) allows easy zip line
adjustment. You can just loosen cable clamps and pull in or
let out cable by hand or using a come-along (fig. 23). Be
sure to retighten your clamps before using your zip line. You
can also double wrap your pole (fig. 21). This helps
prevent slipping during tests but is trickier to adjust. A
come-along or body builder must hold tension in front of the
attachment in order to tighten cable tension (fig. 22, 24).

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 Fig. 22

Fig. 20 Fig. 21
Placement of Cable Clamps De-tension cable to adjust double wrap

Fig. 23 Fig. 24

Tightening single cable wrap or bolted connection De-tension cable to adjust double wrap

Loose Clamp Secret – (for heavy cables)

Pulling tension with a loose clamp already in
place (loose enough to let cable slide
through) allows you to easily lock down cable
position by tightening the loose clamp. Once
you tension your heavy or tight zip line, it
can difficult to pinch the two parts together
and install the first clamp. Be sure to install 2
more clamps before zipping!.
Finished single wrap cable attachment
Bolted connections
Bolts should be backed up. Most are made in Korean or China and Confucius say
‘Bolt may be bad; back up bolt’. Thimbles are needed for regular eye bolts.
Washers should be used in front and back of the bolt. Double coil lock washers
are recommended for safety. Follow all safety directions! Building zip lines is
very dangerous!

Lock Washers Square Washers Round Washers Thimbles

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 Bolted attachment shown with separate cable and quick link Cable attachment to a thimble eye bolt. The thimble
acting as a back-up for the bolt. Notice a thimble is used on the eye bolt is not backed up. Bolts should be backed up
main cable to reduce the sheering force. for zip line attachments.

Auger Drill Bit – 11/16” for 5/8 bolts, 13/16” for ¾” bolts. Use a good drill!! Drill straight, drill deep!

CABLE
Cable Type – Galvanized Aircraft Cable is usually recommended for zip lines. Stainless
steel cable may be needed in corrosive environments subject to salty air, high
precipitation, acid rain, pollution, and pesticides. 7x19 (7 bundles of 19 strands
each:133 strands) is recommended. 6x 19 is also adequate. 1x6, 1x7 or 1x9 is NOT OK!
(1x anything is NOT OK) These cables will not last long. The bend cycles; constant
bending of cables as people are zipping will quickly cause the cable to weaken and
break. (Like bending a coat hanger back and forth many times!)

GOOD! BAD! > > > > > > > > > >

7x19 or 6x19 1x7 1x19 7x7 7x7 coated 7x19 coated

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Cable Diameter – 3/8” is recommended for all runs up to 600’. 1/2” is needed for runs
800’ – 1,500’. 1/4” may be appropriate for runs up to 125’. And 5/16” cable may be
appropriate for runs up to 200’. These smaller diameters are only appropriate if
adequate ‘sag’ is present (7% - 15%). Stainless steel cable is 10%-15% weaker than
galvanized. Larger cables (5/8” -1”) may be OK but it should be flexible and newish. Big
cables are heavy and can be difficult to work with and find hardware for.

Safe Working Load – (SWL) SWL is generally 20% of the tensile strength (breaking
strength) of the cable. Tensile strength is reduced by 20% when cable clamps are used.
E.g. 3/8” cable is rated at 14,400 lbs but may only hold 11,520 lbs at the cable clamp
positions. Therefore SWL is 20% of 11,520# which is 2,304#. NEVER exceed the safe
working loads of your materials and anchors!!!
Cable diameter Weight per foot Tensile SWL Max. Length Sag at max Load to Anchors*
inches (GAC) (pounds #) Strength Pounds # feet Length at max Length
1/4 “ 0.113 5,020 1,004 # 120’ 7% 950 #
5/16” 0.177 7,820 1,564 # 250’ 5% 1,475 #
3/8” 0.25 11,520 2,304 # 600’ 5% 2,000 #
1/2” 0.45 19,700 3,940 # 1,500’ 6% 3,800 #
9/16”+ You will have a hard time finding safe pulleys to run on cable bigger than ½”
*Load to Anchors is based on a 250# rider+cable weight Fig. 15

Cable Drape & Sag

Understanding these helps you determine the safety loads and adjust the riders landing
speed and elevation. You must have a minimum 5%-7% in most cases. (fig.15) If you’re
thinking ‘my cable is going to be tighter than that’, you should rethink! If you’ve
decided ‘my cable is tighter than that’, you’ve gone down a dark path to pain and
suffering. This is important! READ ON>>
Drape is the amount of droop (belly) in an unloaded cable; also called unloaded sag.
Drape is used to calculate sag (aka Loaded sag) which gives us the approximate position
of loaded cable at launch point and landing zone. (fig. 16) (Drape is not an official term…in
fact, none of this is official, it is all fiction…)
Sag is the distance the cable hangs down in the center when weighted, measured in feet
or as a percentage of the total length. Some sag is needed to assure the safe working
load of the cable is not exceeded. Sag is used for load calculations (fig. 16)

Since it is much easier to hang an empty cable, we’re going to start with drape. This
measurement is taken by standing 50’ - 100’ to one side of your zip line and
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guesstimating the drape distance using the Cable Drape Visual Reference Guide (fig.
17). You can also borrow your buddy’s transit or laser level and figure it exactly.

5% drape is the minimum we’re going to work with. Cables tighter than 5% can
overload SWL and anchor attachments.

DRAPE

SAG

Fig. 16

Fig. 17

Stretching cables – DON’T kink your cable while uncoiling! A kinked or ‘dented’
cable will wear equipment faster and may be a safety hazard on longer or faster runs.
Be sure to spool off the cable or roll the spool out. Stretch it out slowly righting the cable
folds and kinks before they are tightened. Setting the spool on its side and spinning or
whipping it off will inevitably cause kinks and dents, once again putting you in harm’s
way. It is best to use a steel rod or broom handle as an axel and ‘roll’ your cable off the
spool.

USING A COME-ALONG ON CABLES – A come-along is a great way to hold and adjust

tension while you fine tune the landing zone elevation and/or incoming speed. It is a
must if pulling 400+’ cables to <10%. Try and pick the safest and easiest-to-access end
of the cable to tension. You will need to get out 5 – 8’ from anchor to adjust and use
come-along. Refer to fig 20 – 24 for come-along techniques; Page 11

Cable clamps with come-alongs

16
 Using clamps as Come-along attachments on your cable is a pain… but cheap and
effective. Hopefully you can get pretty close with tightening by hand. Mark the ideal
cable clamp locations. Loosen tension and install cable clamps while loose. Tighten
by hand again and attach the come-along around the cable behind the grip clamps.
Install a loose clamp at receiving end. You may have to pinch the cables with pliers
to get the clamps to thread. Screw the nut down until flush with bottom of u-bolt.
This will allow cable to slide through during tensioning. Installing clamps on a tight
cable can be very difficult. Need pics
Tension cable to desired sag. Be SURE
to add and tighten clamps before
testing. Loosen clamps to adjust
tension. To reset clamps (if you run out
of come-along length) Set attachment
clamps. Move come-along clamps to
new positions. Reset come-along length
and keep clicking the inches in.

Prussic – using a 5 mil cord tied in a loop can be used to wrap

around and grip the cable in order to pull tension. This is a tricky
operation at best. It can be very difficult to get the prussic to
‘grab’ the cable. A couple of extra wraps will help. This method
is not recommended for long cable runs or pulling more than
100# of tension.

BRAKING & ADJUSTING

ZIP BRAKES: Gravity Brake – A brilliant system that shows your wisdom as a designer
and builder. The cable ends are attached nearly level and it is sagged appropriately to
assure the rider stops before the crashing violently into the receiving end. The rider will
stop at the landing deck or glide back toward the low point of the cable for dismount.

17
HAND BRAKES: A braking system widely used outside US borders. This system requires
the rider to judge their speed and apply appropriate brakes by grabbing the cable with a
heavily gloved hand. The friction of the glove against the cable slows the rider down
avoiding a violent collision with the termination point. This sketchy system is most likely
needed for platform landings. The lack of documentable training for riders and frequency
of injuries keeps this system from being widely used in the US. Installing a zip line that
requires hand braking will most likely result in injury at some time down the
road….Another concern with this system is the proximity of the head and hair to the
trolley and cable.

DRAG BRAKES: Similar to a hand brake but using a steel

carabiner or quick link. The carabiner drags behind the
trolley to create constant friction. The rider can pull down
on the carabiner to increase friction. This will rapidly wear
out carabiners! Aluminum carabiners will grind down
quickly, spaying toxic aluminum dust in the riders face.

18
ZIP BRAKES: Active Brakes – A constructed system to prevent the rider from a catastrophic
impact with an unforgiving tree or pole. The most successful and versatile active brake in use
today is the brake block/bungee system. Tires, giant springs, big cargo nets, and mattresses
have been used with some success. Remember active brakes need constant inspection and
maintenance to function safely. Bungee does NOT tolerate the sun, rain, humidity or anything
outside very well. Bungee must be replaced once or twice a year minimum, maybe more if used
frequently. ½” bungee is generally recommended. 3/8 may be appropriate for lighter and slower
incoming riders. Two separate shock cord attachments is the minimum. Four is preferred with
two on each side of incoming rider. The Bungee should not be to tight, even loose allowing the
trolley to travel several feet before the bungee tensions.

Blocks to overhead cable

Brake Block Brake Block system Tire brake

This consists of a Brake Block or wheel barrel tire installed on the cable near the end and
attached to anchors with bungee cord (1/2” diameter). The zip trolley hits the block or tire
pushing it along the cable, stretching the bungee bringing the rider to a slow stop before they
smack the termination point terminating their fun and your insurance policy. Bungee rots, brake
blocks decay. This type of system needs to be periodically checked and kept in good repair.

NET BRAKES: nets can be a great

way to provide a relatively safe
stopping point. They must be rigged
at least 4 points and tensioned
precisely in order to be effective.
Cargo nets can entangle arms, legs,
and gear. 2” knotless safety net is
the best, properly attached to a cable
or rope frame and anchored out at
Net with cable frame Knotless netting
each corner and side.

SPRING BRAKES: Spring

brakes are very dangerous.
Advance engineering and
expertise is needed to
safely use a spring braking
system. A good system can
smoothly slow a rider from
20 mph to 0 in 20 feet.

19
ZIP BRAKES: Active Friend System – Used for testing zip lines (sometimes
successfully) Each friend will hold one end of the rope and walk out 30+’ in front of the
landing spot. They are going to act as an active braking system to control your incoming
speed. They should be sober and capable of letting out rope allowing you to finish the
ride but able to stop you before pain and death. They need to hold the rope loosely
allowing you to contact it and still travel on the cable. They should only pull tight if you
are nearing the pole at a high rate of speed.

They are not there to stop you at the point of

contact but only to stop you just before you hit
the pole (NOTE: you should make sure these
are good friends who have nothing against you
and whose wife you are not sleeping with) if
you have installed an active braking system
then they should be behind it (between it and
the pole) to assure it is working properly.

ADJUSTING YOUR CABLE

Adjusting incoming angle and speed
a. Slowing Down
i. Raise receiving end and loosen cable maintaining landing zone sweet
spot. This will also increase angle of arrival.
ii. Lower launch end and tighten cable maintaining landing zone sweet
spot. This will also increase angle of arrival.
iii. Use slower trolley
b. Speeding Up
i. Loosen cable tension
ii. Lower receiving end and tighten cable to maintain landing spot.
iii. Raise launch end.
iv. Use faster trolley
Adjusting incoming height
Tether – Adjust the length of the tether 2’ – 5’
Cable – Raise or lower cable attachment at receiving or launch end.

Adjusting your cable tension

The basic around the back side or through a bolt (fig 20) allows easy zip line
adjustment. You can just loosen cable clamps and pull in or let out cable by hand or
using a come-along (fig. 123). Be sure to retighten your clamps before using your zip
line. You can also double wrap your pole (fig. 21). This helps prevent slipping during
tests but is trickier to adjust. A come-along or body builder must hold tension in front of
the attachment in order to tighten cable tension (fig. 123, 124). This is where havens
grips are soooo sweet.

20
Fig. 123 Fig. 124

Adjusting a single wrap cable Adjusting a double wrap cable

DOWN RIGGERS
Down riggers can be a good way to fine tune and adjust
your zip line speed, distance travelled, and landing
area. Downriggers will also complicate your design and
add numerous new ways to hurt or kill passengers.
Downriggers are usually placed near the end of the
cable run. They soften the launch angle and lengthen
the time of acceleration during the ride. Fig A shows a
cable without a downrigger. Fig B shows the same cable
with downrigger. Fig C shows the difference in the cable
angle.

Downriggers add a great deal of load to the cable. It’s like having another rider
hanging on the cable at a fixed point. Because downriggers are fixed at a position and
length, the load they create varies with the rider weight and cable bounce. A heavier
passenger will create a heavier load at the rig point. Downriggers can easily exceed the
safe working load of the cable. The rigger should be attached to the cable using a
trolley because of the movement and cable bounce. Riggers are a critical factor
because failure will lower the center of the cable causing the passenger to ground out
early in their ride…OUCH!

Make sure
The rigger is not too tight
It is backed up as a critical component
Is adequately anchored to the ground
(not a dog leash anchor)
Set with cable: not rope
Passenger cannot hit the downrigger

DOWRIGGER USED TO CONTROL

LANDING AREA IN HAWAII

21
RETRIEVING YOUR TROLLEY
Once you’ve flown down your cable like an eagle, you will need to get your trolley back
to the top for another run, assuming no one is injured. There are a couple of ways to do
this. The most common is the retrieval leash. When the rider gets off the line, the
pulley is left on the cable and a length of rope is attached to it. A runner then grabs the
other end of the rope and walks it back to the launch point. Once at the launch point,
the leash rope is disconnected and the next rider is clipped to the trolley and starts their
run.
The retrieval rope must be
walked back down to the
receiving end to be used
again. This simple method
only works when you can
easily walk under the cable
from one end to the other.

Another common practice is the new trolley method. Once the rider gets to the end,
their trolley is removed from the cable and returned to the start area by ground carrier.
The launch point simply loads another trolley on the cable for the next rider.

Drag line is a system that always has a rope or line attached to the trolley. The rider
zips with the trailing line playing out as they go. Once finished, the passenger dismounts
and the launch operator pulls the line from the launch platform to bring the trolley back.
Numerous things can go wrong with this piss poor system. Retrieval lines often get
tangled as they feed out causing an unexpected stop or slow down. Broken or loose
lines often tangle around the passenger (usually the neck). Saggy lines can get caught
on trees or brush under the cable most likely causing significant trouble for you and your
passenger.

A Return Line is another troublesome way to return the trolley to the launch point. This
is basically another zip line angled to go the other way. Because the return cable is NOT
used as another zip line, it can be strung quite tight to guarantee the trolleys return to
the other side. If it is hung on the same anchors as the zip line, then the passenger
must avoid getting caught on it as they zip. The return cable should be anchored to
different trees than the zip line.

22
 Building a Center Dismount Zip Line

THIS IS AN IDEAL ZIP LINE. YOUR ZIP LINE RESULTS WILL VARY (Perhaps tragically)
Design, Design, Design!! A good design will save massive amounts of work rehanging
and adjusting your cable. ALL Zip Line cables must have minimum 5% sag in order to
be safe. ZIP LINES ARE DANGEROUS! Building a zip line is dangerous! Reading this
material is really dangerous.
1. First you must find a good clean run and clear it of trees, branches, bushes, old
cars, live ordinance, and pedestrians. It really sucks to get thwacked by a branch
at 30 miles per hour. Your zip lane should be clear 10’ on each side of your
cable. Your lane should be level or only slightly declining (5% grade) if you are
looking at a valley situation, then you may need to consider an end dismount zip
line.
2. You will need solid anchor points at each end of you cable. The tree should be
living and healthy and in solid ground. It should be growing straight up or slightly
angled away for the cable run. An arborist should be consulted if you are in doubt
of the stability of the tree. Remember that the load will be many times greater
that the weight of the rider. A 3/8” 500’ cable with 5% sag and a 175# rider
will generate 2000# of force on the anchor points…Really! 2000# is
enough to break a telephone pole.
3. Now let’s figure our attachment heights. (You may need your calculator for this)
a. The center (Lowest point) of the cable or dismount point should be 11’ above
the ground when someone is hanging from that point. When it is time to
check this, use a heavy person (200# - 275#) not your 8 year old 60# child
to get this measurement. This distance is figured using a 4’ tether and
wanting to have 3’-4’ of clearance from the ground to the passenger’s feet.
Remember the rider will be zipping past this point at 30 mph. Having the
riders pick up their feet as they pass the low point to avoid ground contact is
not an acceptable safety practice. Also the cable will sag a foot or two more
as it is worn in and settles.
b. Assuming we will have a 5% sag (bare minimum for safety), and the low
point will be 11’ high, then we take the full length of the cable and figure the
sag in feet. A 300’ cable at 5% sag equals a 15’ drop from the launch end to
low point. Therefore our launch attachment needs to be 26’ above the
ground; assuming we are on level ground. You will also have to figure the

23
 grade of the land into this. If the ground at your launch point is 10’ higher
than you dismount point. Then your attachment needs to be minimum 16’
above the ground. Confused yet? Perhaps it is time to call a professional for
as we all know, building zip lines is dangerous!
c. The receiving end or termination point can be set at the same height
for simplicity. But you are probably the kind of person who wants to build
the ultimate zip line run. You should be able to drop the receiving
attachment point 2% - 3% of the cable length without endangering your
riders (no guarantees, of course). Any more drop than that will result in
riders having a messy impact with the termination tree or pole probably
ruining their day and your golden reputation. Our 300’ cable starts at 26’-30’
high, sags down to 11’ (under weight) and rises to 20’-25’ at the far end.
This is cutting edge stuff and your 8 year old may only come within 10’ of
the receiving tree but 300# Uncle Ralph may very well will hit the far tree
with enough force to break bones and take you off his Christmas list. Many
factors determine the speed and length of the ride: rider weight, type of
trolley used, wind speed and direction, and whether there is a running,
standing or sitting start for the rider.
d. The best case scenario is a ‘gravity braking’. Gravity never fails and needs
no replacement parts. Because of the lay of the land, height of trees, or any
number of other factors, you may need an ‘active braking system’ (see page
17).
4. Testing your zip line is dangerous!! Go ahead and put on your harness. Let’s look
at our red flag zones first. The LOW POINT is a critical area we want to be sure is
high enough to avoid ground contact. Set up you ladder at the low point and load
your trolley. Connect your tether to the trolley and the other end of the tether to
your harness. Now ease your weight on the cable until you are hanging just on
the cable. If your feet are within 2’ of the ground your zip needs tightening. Your
feet should be 4’+ above the ground. Bounce up and down. You should not be
coming closer than 3’ to the ground. Remember the zip line will stretch and sag as
time goes by. We are trying to see if the attachment trees or poles are swaying
under the dynamic load of your bouncing. 3’ clearance? GOOD!
a. First Test Run – You should be very afraid! Our big fear here is that we will
impact the far pole or tree and never walk again. We are going to take our
50’ rope and two friends to the low point. Let’s take a steel carabiner and
clip it to the cable. Clip the middle of the rope to the carabiner. Climb down
and move the ladder safely out of the zip lane. Get your active friend
braking system into place. There should be no beers involved previous to or
at this point. Climb up to your launch point and load the trolley on the cable.
Attach the tether to the trolley and your harness. DOUBLE CHECK YOUR
ATTACMENTS!! Are the carabiners closed and locked? Is the tether
connected to the belay loop of your harness? Is the trolley loaded on the
cable properly? Is your harness properly fitted and tight enough? A helmet is
a great piece of equipment to wear now. This is a good time to adopt
religion! Hold the tether and ease off your launch deck/ladder/limb.
REMEMBER WE ARE NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE OUTCOME! WE WARNED
YOU! ZIP LINES ARE DANGEROUS! YOU SHOULD CONSULT A
24
 PROFESSIONAL! BUT NOOOO, Here you are about to jump off a 3 story
perch trusting your life to something you built from plans bought on-
line...tisk, tisk.
b. Subsequent Testing – Assuming all went well on the first run, you should
test more with your friends moving farther back and holding the rope looser
each time until you are sure you will not impact the termination point. If
your friends ended up stopping you from impact, you will need to raise the
termination end, lower the launch point, or install an active braking system.
5. Adjusting your cable – If you do have to raise or lower one of your termination
points you must remember that this will affect your low point. It all comes down to
making sure the low point is 11’ high when adjustments are complete. If you raise
one end of the cable you will need to let out cable to keep your low point at the
sweet spot (11’). The opposite is true if you have to lower one end. Failure to
adjust the length to compensate for the elevation change will once again result in
pain and death…NOT OUR FAULT!

Building an End Dismount Zip Line

End dismounts with walk up landings are much more technical and require precise cable
placement to assure safety.

The best case scenario is working your cable over a shallow valley with the receiving end
3% - 5% lower than the launch end. If a landing platform is needed, you should walk
away from this project right now. You’re going to hurt someone if you continue! Only a
qualified builder with extensive experience should be building zip lines that require
landing decks.
Landing zones and decks are 10’ – 20+’ long and angled 15% - 30% (in general). The
angle assures contact without exposing the rider to decks edge which allows safe
landings for all sizes and weights. The length and exact angle is critical for rider safety.
The speed and angle of the incoming rider determines the length and angle of the
landing deck. This is where experience comes in to play. You will have to learn from
trial and error which will no doubt include many hospital visits. It is critical that the end
of the landing deck is far below the feet of incoming riders; even long, lanky cousin
Lenny.

25
Remember the longer the zip line, the more unpredictable the riders landing speed will
be. End dismount zips can be as long as 1000’ but having anything over 250’ is inviting
disaster and personal tragedy. Longer end dismounts require a trained, qualified person
at the end to ‘work’ the cable and signal rider to adjust speed as they approach. ALL Zip
Line cables Must have minimum 5% sag in order to be safe. ZIP LINES ARE
DANGEROUS! Building a zip line is dangerous!
1. FIND ZIP LANE -First you must find a good clean run and clear it of trees,
branches, bushes, old cars, and pedestrians. It really sucks to get thwacked by a
branch at 20 miles per hour. Your zip lane should be clear 10’ on each side of
your cable. Your lane should be a valley situation or long flat run with a lot of
lumber to build a raised deck.
a. The receiving end should be only 3%-5% lower than the launch end.
b. Cable drape should be minimal: 5% - 8%.
c. The launch point is 5%-10% higher than the Landing zone
d. The landing zone is long and slightly inclined.
e. Suitable Cable attachments points allow safe launch and landing
f. If you have an area that meets these criteria, then you should call someone
who knows what they are doing to build this for you.

26
2. If you are using poles you must use down guys to anchor the poles. In many cases
tree anchors will need down guys. Ground anchors have to be bomb proof. They
are essentially taking the load of the rider and tensioned cable which can easily
exceed 2000# that’s two thousand pounds! 6,000# holding strength is the
minimum standard use in the Power Industry and Challenge Course/Zip line
Industry. The steeper the angle of the down cable the more the load is to the
anchor. A 30o angle doubles the load over a 45o angle.
3. We need to go ahead and hang the cable. We want to balance the attachment
heights and cable sag so the rider arrives at the landing zone very, very slow.
You’re probably going to have to adjust tension and attachment heights several
times to get it just right. You prefer not to set any bolts until have your cable
perfect.
4. You will also need to install an active braking system (brake block) to at least
prolong the time until someone is hurt or killed.
5. Let’s hook to the launch point and clamp it on. Wrap your cable around the launch
side attachment point and secure with two cable clamps just enough to dent the
cable (20 foot pounds). Make sure your cable won’t slide down as you test it. Go
ahead and start by setting it at 8’ above the launch unloaded. (USE CHART BELOW). We
will probably have to adjust the height.

6. Go to the receiving end and wrap your cable around the anchor. Pull taught and
load a loosened cable clamp 2- 3’ away from anchor. Pull as tight as you can by
hand or come along achieving the target 5% to 10% sag. Tighten your clamps
clamps to 30 foot pounds.

27
7. Check landing Zone Height – rider checks from landing area.
a. Hook trolley system to rider at lowest loaded point.
b. Rider pushes out on cable with leash rope.
c. Beloved friends pull rider in at appropriate speeds to check incoming angle.
d. Repeat at increasing speeds until you feel your gravity or active braking
system may initially prevent disaster.
e. Using a short tether, the rider pulls self out and up cable from landing zone
to check speeds from various distances.

Testing from landing area

28
Adjusting incoming angle and speed
b. Slowing Down
i. Raise receiving end and loosen cable maintaining landing zone sweet spot. This
will also increase angle of arrival.
ii. Lower launch end and tighten cable maintaining landing zone sweet spot. This
will also increase angle of arrival.
iii. Use slower trolley
b. Speeding Up
i. Tighten cable tension
ii. Lower receiving end and tighten cable to maintain landing spot.
iii. Raise launch end.
iv. Use faster trolley
Adjusting incoming height
Tether – Adjust the length of the tether 2’ – 5’
Cable – Raise or lower cable attachment at receiving or launch end.

8. Testing Your End-Dismount Zip Line

c. First Test Run – You should be very afraid! Our big fear here is that we will impact
the landing zone and never walk again.
a. We need to employ the Active friend braking system at least 30 feet in
front (50’ is better) of landing zone.
b. Climb up to your launch point and load the trolley on the cable. Attach the
tether to the trolley and your harness. DOUBLE CHECK YOUR
ATTACHMENTS!!
i. Are the carabiners closed and locked?
ii. Is the tether connected to the belay loop of your harness?
iii. Is the trolley loaded on the cable properly?
iv. Is your harness properly fitted and tight enough?
v. Is your helmet fitted and buckled?
vi. This is a good time for a personal religious moment!
vii. Hold the tether and ease off your launch deck/ladder/limb. REMEMBER
WE ARE NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE OUTCOME! WE WARNED YOU!
ZIP LINES ARE DANGEROUS! YOU SHOULD CONSULT A
PROFESSIONAL! BUT NOOOO, Here you are about to jump off a 3
story perch trusting your life to something you built from plans bought
on-line...tisk, tisk.
d. Subsequent Testing – Assuming all went well on the first run, you should test more
with your friends moving farther back and holding the rope looser each time until
you are sure you will not painfully impact the termination point. Once you’re happy
the ABS is sufficient, then complete multiple runs using just ABS.
e. If you’re relying on an Active Braking System then you will continue to adjust
shock cord quantity and tension. Your ABS needs continuous attention, inspections
and pre-failure replacement.
f. Once everything is where you want it to be, you can install your bolts or keep your
wrap system and make sure you have three clamps on each end tightened down to
40#. Remember you will need to adjust tension again after it is broken in.

29
Building a deck dismount zip line
This is a dangerous undertaking at best. (Are you beginning to sense a theme here?) I’ve known
professional builders with broken legs trying to ‘dial-in’ a deck dismount. Even if you get it right, and
land light 50 times, someone will eventually come in side-ways or backwards and pretzel an ankle or
knee. Don’t look at us! You’re the one guilty of child endangerment. ½” cable is recommended if you will
be using tighter cables and steeper angles for short decks. You will also need a reliable active braking
system, bomb proof anchors, and a safe everything else.

Cable sag and drape ratios as a % of cable length (approx)

The key is to get your receiving end cable attachment height just right.
Attach your receiving end to the best-guestimate height that will place your loaded cable 7’ – 10’ above
landing zone. You can attach your launch end at your target height. The ideal is a 3%-6% elevation drop
along the cable with 2%- 7% sag. ½” cable must be used for any lines tighter than 5% sag.

Attach the cable end with a come-along through a loose

clamp. You will dial in the exact tension by adjusting the
come-along. To determine the tension, weight the cable at
the landing deck. Tension cable so you are contacting the
deck at the sweet spot. Remember any cable adjustment
now or later will affect landing speed and height…

The most likely problem you have is that passengers are coming in too fast. The tree or pole does make a
very effective brake but usually with painful results. Refer to the braking chapter for possible solutions. If
you’re coming in too slow, then you will need to raise your launch point and/or slacken the cable just a
bit. You will have to adjust and tweak your attachment heights and sag to find the perfect landing zone
speed and angle each time you adjust the cable.

These kinds of landings require the passenger to come in facing forward. A passenger theoretically can
control their spin by twisting the trolley into the direction they want to spin, but most don’t!. passenger
competence is needed to assure proper control and continued safety. The heavily gloved, ambitious rider
should hold the carabiner attached to the trolley, not the trolley itself.

Many accidents around deck dismounts happen after the passenger or operator is unclipped from the zip
line, sometimes falling off the deck while attempting to regain their balance. A fail safe safety system
must be in use for staff and passengers while operating any zip line.

The zip line will ‘stretch and sag’ a bit over time. Adjustments will be needed as the cable is ‘broken in’.
These should be made before bones are broken at the decks edge. No one should ever be able to contact
the edge of the deck, even big Uncle Jim. Sagging cables may go unnoticed at first, until Cousin Tommy
breaks a knee on the edge of the deck landing. Check landing zone loaded cable height and all
connections before each use. Remove all dead limbs, branches, hazards above the cables and decks.

30
Building really long zip lines (1,000’+)
If this is your chapter, then you are a bold (or stupid) builder. Long zips present numerous challenges,
hazards, and potential tragedies. First of all, you will use ½” cable or bigger. ½” cable, if properly sagged
can work for zips up to 1,800’. A 1,000’ of ½” cable weighs over 450 pounds. Just unloading it from the
truck is a chore. Stretching and hanging it can be an exercise equivalent to building the Egyptian
pyramids. ½” cable SWL=3,950#

Twin 1,600’ center dismount zips on Kauai (6.3% sag)
Cable weight= 750 pounds. Anchor tension=3,000 pounds
with no passenger and 3,850 pounds with a 250#
passenger.
Safe Working Load (SWL) = 3,950 pounds.
16’ steel tower used to elevate cables. The
cables are attached to 5,000 pounds of
concrete buried underground behind tower.
Designed and built by ERi for 2000’+ zips
with 5/8”-7/8” double cables.(Maui)

If you’re going to build zips this long, you should really consider building two of them side by side. It
eases cable replacement and makes great pictures and videos possible. You should really consider calling
a professional installer (310) 486-4427

ANCHORS are crucial!! There are not very many trees that will support the loads of the cables. The
constant pressure alone will slowly kill or pull the tree over in time. Like straightening teeth, the constant
pull will move even the biggest trees, especially during the wet season. Class 1 poles with bomb proof
guy anchors are recommended. Ground anchors with elevation towers are even better. Proper
engineering is essential. Each anchor should be rated to hold at least 5 times the expected load (at least
20,000 pounds).

Running cable will be quite a chore in itself. Open field runs aren’t bad-just put the cable spool on an axel
in the back of a pick up truck and slowly drive to the other end. Jungle settings or cliffs will necessitate
other approaches. Helicopters are a fairly costly option, but will make it very simple. If you don’t have a
helicopter on site then a pneumatic potato launcher (spud launcher) is a good way to go.

Using an archery fishing line attachment and a

golf ball, you can shoot your line one shot at a
time over trees and cliffs. Once your fishing line
is run, then use it to pull jet line or small rope.
Use that to pull 2 large ropes over the length of
your run. Attach the ropes at one end and pull
so they clear any trees along your path.
Pneumatic spud launcher with archery fishing line attachment

31
You should now have 2 ropes (at least one
7/16” static line) strung from lunch to
termination. Make a loop at the end of your
cable, and then attach it to the other rope.
Hang the cable loop from your stretched rope
using a trolley. Use the other rope to pull your
cable across your run. Easy right? Expect
numerous complications. Nobody said life was
easy.

You’ve probably use a truck to pull your cable; perhaps a winch or a team or horses. However you
got your cable across you will now need to hold it. Raise it, and attach it to you bomb proof anchor.
This can be tricky. You will be pulling and holding 1,000 – 2,000 pounds. Havens grips are a must
for stretching cable with limited damage. The quality, age and condition of your come-along comes
into play here as well as your foolhardy determination.

Loop a rope or cable over your pole and attach the

come-along to it. Fully extend the come-along out
and attach it to the zip cable as far out as you can.
You will really need havens grips for this. Click it in so
you come-along is holding the weight of the cable.
Set your tension and connect the cable to the anchor.
Reset your come-along using the loose clamp
technique and start your adjustments and fine tuning.
Fist grip clamps or copper ferrules are recommended over U-type clamps. U clamps weaken the
cable by 20%; not a comforting thought when you’re zipping at 35 mph.

Most of the commonly available trolleys will work on cables up to ½”. At the time of writing this, I am
not aware of any commercially produce trolleys that will work for larger cables. There are numerous
pulleys designed for larger cables, but none of these are appropriate for the kinds of speeds and life
support needs generated by long, fast zip lines. You, or course, may design and build your own
trolley; a rather foolish and dangerous endeavor fraught with un-defendable liability. Some
professional canopy tour companies are producing trolleys for this application. None of these
companies want their names published in this document however. If you are working with larger
cables and really need a trolley I would suggest finding resorts hosting big zip lines in Hawaii, Alaska,
and Costa Rica and then asking who built their lines and contacting those companies.

Jet line- Used to pull long ropes Custom Trolleys for large cables (Maui) Long Zip Brake Blocks

STORIES OF DOOM AND DISASTER

1.

32
 LADDER SAFETY
With the right ladder and proper use, working above ground level should be no problem. Make sure you have an
appropriate ladder and use correct technique for placement and climbing.

Choose the Right Ladder

There are three basic portable ladder types:

Type I – Industrial: heavy-duty with a load capacity not more than 250 pounds.
Type II – Commercial: medium-duty with a load capacity not more than 225 pounds. (Suited for painting and
similar tasks.)
Type III – Household: light-duty with a load capacity of 200 pounds.

There are many types of ladders available on the market. If it is intended to be portable and used by a single person,
it should fit into one of the three basic categories.

The most common type of ladder in the home is a stepladder. Only choose ladders with the UL seal from Underwriter's
Laboratory. Ladders commonly come in three materials: aluminum, wood, or fiberglass. Aluminum is the most
durable, but will conduct electricity, making it dangerous for use around electricity. Wood may rot. Fiberglass is the
best combination of durability and non-conductivity, but is also the most expensive.

Using a Ladder

Make sure the ladder is suited for the type of job you plan to do (see the types above).
Before using a ladder, especially a ladder that has been stored in the garage for a while, inspect it for cracks
or broken joints.
Place your ladder on a stable, even, flat surface. Never place a ladder on top of another object.
Use the 1:4 ratio to ensure a stable working platform. Place the base of the ladder 1 foot away of whatever it
leans against for every 4 feet of height to the point where the ladder contacts at the top (see graphic).
When using an A-frame stepladder, make sure the brace is locked in place.
If climbing onto another surface, make sure the ladder extends at least three feet past the platform you're
climbing onto.
Secure tall ladders by lashing or fastening the ladder to prevent movement.
Always face the ladder when climbing or descending.
Keep both feet on the ladder - never put one foot on a rung and the other foot on a different surface.
Do not climb higher than the second rung on stepladders or the third rung on straight or extension ladders.
Never stand on the top or the paint shelf of a stepladder.
Keep your belt buckle (if you have one) positioned between the rungs so it doesn't catch.
Never leave ladders unattended - kids love them.
When working with electricity, use a ladder made of wood or fiberglass.

Maintaining Ladders
Inspect ladders regularly. Stepladders and extension ladders should be inspected for broken or frozen joints or
latches. Aluminum ladders should be inspected for cracks and broken welds. Aluminum ladders should also be
inspected for rough spots and burrs before first use.

Wood ladders should be inspected for cracked wood, splinters, and rot. Look for broken or loose hardware. Protect
wood ladders with linseed oil or clear sealant. Never paint a wooden ladder - the paint may hide imperfections such as
rot or cracks.

Fiberglass ladders are protected with a clear sealant. If the fiberglass is damaged through the sealant, sand lightly
before applying another coat of lacquer.

33
 Class Size Circumference Table
Western Red Cedar & Ponderosa Pine Poles
AMERICAN NATIONAL STANDARD 05.1-1992
Class H6 H5 H4 H3 H2 H1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
Minimum
circumference at 39.0 37.0 35.0 33.0 31.0 29.0 27.0 25.0 23.0 21.0 19.0 17.0 15.0
top (inches)

Groundline
Length distance
Minimum circumference at 6 foot from butt
of pole (1) from
(feet) the butt (inches)
(feet)

20' 4.0' 33.5 31.5 29.5 27.0 25.0 23.0 21.5

25' 5.0' 37.0 34.5 32.5 30.0 28.0 25.5 24.5

30' 5.5' 40.0 37.5 35.0 32.5 30.0 28.0 26.0

35' 6.0' 48.0 45.5 42.5 40.0 37.5 34.5 32.0 30.0 27.5

40' 6.0' 56.5 53.5 51.0 48.0 45.0 42.5 39.5 36.5 34.0 31.5

45' 6.5' 64.5 62.0 59.0 56.0 53.5 50.5 47.5 44.5 41.5 38.5 36.0 33.0

50' 7.0' 67.0 64.5 61.5 58.5 55.5 52.5 49.5 46.5 43.5 40.0 37.5

55' 7.5' 70.0 67.0 64.0 61.0 57.5 54.5 51.5 48.5 45.0 42.0

60' 8.0' 72.0 69.0 66.0 63.0 59.5 56.5 53.5 50.0 46.5 43.5

65' 8.5' 74.5 71.5 68.0 65.0 61.5 58.5 55.0 51.5 48.0 45.0

70' 9.0' 76.5 73.5 70.0 67.0 63.5 60.0 56.5 53.0 49.5 46.0

75' 9.5' 78.5 75.5 72.0 68.5 65.0 61.5 58.0 54.5 51.0

80' 10.0' 80.5 77.0 74.0 70.5 67.0 63.0 59.5 56.0 52.0

85' 10.5' 82.5 79.0 75.5 72.0 68.5 64.5 61.0 57.0 53.5

90' 11.0' 84.5 81.0 77.0 73.5 70.0 66.0 62.5 58.5 54.5

95' 11.0' 86.0 82.5 79.0 75.0 71.5 67.5 63.5 59.5

100' 11.0' 87.5 84.0 80.5 76.5 72.5 69.0 65.0 61.0

NOTE - Classes and lengths for which circumferences at 6 feet from the butt are listed in standard type are the
preferred standard sizes. Those shown in light type are included for engineering purposes only

(1) The figures in this column are intended for use only when a definition of groundline is necessary in order to
apply requirements relating to scars, straightness, etc.

34
 Class Size Circumference Table
Douglas Fir & Southern Yellow Pine Poles
AMERICAN NATIONAL STANDARD 05.1-1992

Class H6 H5 H4 H3 H2 H1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
Minimum
circumference
39.0 37.0 35.0 33.0 31.0 29.0 27.0 25.0 23.0 21.0 19.0 17.0 15.0
at top
(inches)

Groundline
Length distance
Minimum circumference at 6 foot from butt
of pole (1) from
(feet) the butt (inches)
(feet)

20' 4.0' 31.0 29.0 27.0 25.0 23.0 21.0 19.5

25' 5.0' 33.5 31.5 29.5 27.5 25.5 23.0 21.5

30' 5.5' 36.5 34.0 32.0 29.5 27.5 25.0 23.5

35' 6.0' 43.5 41.5 39.0 36.5 34.0 31.5 29.0 27.0 25.0

40' 6.0' 51.0 48.5 46.0 43.5 41.0 38.5 36.0 33.5 31.0 28.5

45' 6.5' 58.5 56.0 53.5 51.0 48.5 45.5 43.0 40.5 37.5 35.0 32.5 30.0

50' 7.0' 61.0 58.5 55.5 53.0 50.5 47.5 45.0 42.0 39.0 36.5 34.0

55' 7.5' 63.5 60.5 58.0 55.0 52.0 49.5 46.5 43.5 40.5 38.0

60' 8.0' 65.5 62.5 59.5 57.0 54.0 51.0 48.0 45.0 42.0 39.0

65' 8.5' 67.5 64.5 61.5 58.5 55.5 52.5 49.5 46.5 43.5 40.5

70' 9.0' 69.0 66.5 63.5 60.5 57.0 54.0 51.0 48.0 45.0 41.5

75' 9.5' 71.0 68.0 65.0 62.0 59.0 55.5 52.5 49.0 46.0

80' 10.0' 72.5 69.5 66.5 63.5 60.0 57.0 54.0 50.5 47.0

85' 10.5' 74.5 71.5 68.0 65.0 61.5 58.5 55.0 51.5 48.0

90' 11.0' 76.0 73.0 69.5 66.5 63.0 59.5 56.0 53.0 49.0

95' 11.0' 77.5 74.5 71.0 67.5 64.5 61.0 57.0 54.0

100' 11.0' 79.0 76.0 72.5 69.0 65.5 62.0 58.5 55.0

NOTE - Classes and lengths for which circumferences at 6 feet from the butt are listed in standard type are the
preferred standard sizes. Those shown in light type are included for engineering purposes only.

(1) The figures in this column are intended for use only when a definition of groundline is necessary in order to
apply requirements relating to scars, straightness, etc.

35