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fcFtrr r ~ ~ m~ ~"C%" 3ltt aflq~~~ICfl ~ cf; f@ffiq; ~ <fl{-W

q qtf ~ 3ltt ~ ~fdfi1l<:,q·cf; ~ <Fr. '4T ~ <fl{ ~ qI~ m~ >MJCi'

~~'R~I

21.3.3 ~<:Hd')j4lctH ~
~ cf; ~ ~ ~fdfi1I<:,t{jcf; mm ctr 3ffi: ~ ~ 1T<ITI ~fdfi1l<:,q(ctr ~
'fiT 1:fm WTR 3ltt ~ mm 'fiT 11Pf ~ cf; ~ ~ 1952 jf ~ ~
~fdfi1l<:,q ~ ctr ~ ctr 1f{ I ~fdfi1l\,:q ~ <Fr ~ cfi ~ 1958 { jf ~
~fdfi1l<:,q 3ltt ~ f1i:lfu frnll1 ctr fmC1'11 ctr 1f{ I ~ ~ <Fr ~ ~ ~
. cfi ~ ~-~ ~~41R:t1>1~ ~ I ~ ~fd~rfu ~ <Fr ~ ~ cfi ~
1953 t jf ~ jf fm;q ("1'%1('1£1. 1T<ITI WCflrtT ~ jf ~ ~ ~ ~
~ ~••41R:t1JOl(~ ~"41R:t1>1) 1J;Cfl~ f<WoR ~ ~ I~ 3Tf[lqT m«f ~ ~
~ ~ ("1i~RlCfl cFm ctr ~ fmC1'11 ctr ~ I ~ (~) ~ fm;q lJl11,
31~SjGI\\1IG(~) 'fiT Cfi119T<"i~~I('1t13ltt~. <"i%I('1t1, :fr (Sj~I(It>c;.) 'fiT '"{f\jIT~
~ ("1'%1('1£1~ ~ ~ \3GI~(OI % 1~ ("1'%1('1£1'fiT ~ tT.~. 2, ~ 5, ~
20jf~\jfT~~1 .

1)' 50 ~ jf ~ 3ltt \\1IIJf1{)Cfl(OI ~ eN ("1>1:nI~l!>

t.
-,

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9
 Cflk., 3ltt $W~IC'"q cf; mrn cf; ~. Cfm ~~ ~? W 'qf1T if m., 3ltt $W~IC'"q cf;
~ ~ (1CflI{I(JOF.fi~ Cf'T~ fct;m ~ 1~ ~ m cf; ~ ~ <IT
\3~I${o1'i Cf'T~ fct;m ~ I ~ \3~I${OI ~ cf; ~ ~ ~ Cf'T~ 3ltt ~
;3~I${OI ~ ~ R1<TI 1fl:lT~ 1 :

21.4.1 ~

(~101Fc1f{qd \3~I${OI ~ ~ ~ cf; m.cr) "The impact of Tourism on the Arts and
Crafts of the Indians of the South Western United States" in Host and Guests: The
Anthropology of Tourism (ed) Valene L. Smith University of Pensylvania Press, 1990 ~
fc1m 1fl:lT~ 1

~cf;~~'qf1Tif,\J"~I~ld{~cf;~~~~~·~.~1
~ ~.~ ~if Cfl{ ~ ~:fR"W ~I ~Cfl{ S1\JjIR1~i~ ~ -~ ~:~, I
~ m 1~ ~~ ~ ~ 2T 3ltt 1960 t cf; 3lR'l1 if ~ ~ fq1 Cl Iffl41' cf;
.~ if ~ ~ ~ ~tt cf;~, c.1CflR~1, wft' CW-f, ~ m~ eFt 9'iC1T~
~2T1
~ ~ CflC1I(~ct>~ ~ ~~ Cfi11~ 2T ~ ~ 3ltt m ~ CflT
~~cf.;~~~ Im~~~~~~~3ltt~
ffilTI ~ ~ m1f{ ~ CfiT ~ ~ Cfi"{~ 1 qROII~~~q &1 ~ eFt >ffit;trr ~
~ 19cft ~ iF ~ (fCfi 3lli 3lli ~ ~ ~ \Wfi1Sf 1f{~ 1fl:lT1 ~ am
~ ~ cf; '31ffiCIT~, 'TIT 3ltt BN cf; ~ ~ 2T 1 ~ ~,ffilTI Gm ~ if;
~ Cf'T~ .. ~ "'1'R ~ fBctt
, cf; ~ ~ ~ ~ ct>'T.q{lOq{llld ~ WW<f
~ C11fT1

W ~ if m., cf; mrn ,~~ cf; ffilTI cf; ~ Cfl{ 3lm' if ~ 'rT ct>'T~ m ~ 1
~ ~ '4T m-u >MTCf~ 1 ~
1f{+=q'{T 1f{ $W~IC'"41 ct>'T~ ~ 3ltt m~
~ ~ CfiT ~ ~ cf; ~ S1l((11t?1 fl1c;rr 1 ~ Q11 ~.~ t?k1~IC'"41 ct>'Tff '
m ~ ~cf;mif 3lR cf;CWUT 3lW~Cf'T 'Br~ml.

Cfi) ~~

~ ~ ct>'T~ ~ ~ if; ~ ~ ~ ~ 2lt 1 3lR'l1 ~ ~ 'BPT~ 3ltt

qROII~~ ~q ~ 'Br ~ 1 m~ ct>'T~ if f1Iuqc ~ 3ltt '<lfVIT CfiTfZ cf;
_ ~ ~ "'1'R C11II ~ CWUT ~ ffiCflfSl~dl tR~ C11fT3ltt \ffif; ~ tR~
, WlI m~ 3ltt ~lqlRifi CfiT <n? ~ ~ WIT Ft; '<lfVIT CfiTfZ cf; ~ CflT~
~~~ m ~:awm:q?r ffi'l1ct>'T~m ID m~1 ~ ~ ~-~
~ ~ 1R!;, ~ CfiTfZ CflT~ '1TC1"~ fct;m 1fl:lT3ltt -QTf CflT~ ~ ~
(11~141\Jj1 fct;m 1fl:lT1 m q{lOq{llld $W~IC'"q CfiT'dl\J11fi 3ltt ~ ~ ~ 1~ ~
~~~~~Bif;~~IlrC~;~1 .

"(Cf) ~

~ Ft; ~ cf; Bm ~3lT ~ tT ~ 'BPT cf; ~ ct>'T~ if 'Br f1Iuqc ~ 1.

~ ~ Bm-~ ~ ~ CfiT 'Br ~ fl1c;rr ~ ~ ~ if ~ ~ ~
~ cf; ~ ID "'1'R cf; ~ ~ ct>'T~ 1f{ 'Br ~ lIT fc1m 1fl:lT1'

'IT) ~ ~ -~ affi:.i'rCfltr mTur

~
~
~ ~
~ cf; ~
ct>'Tcm
¥ ID "W ~
>!ftr;g:
*.,~
m~~ ~
CfiT ~1,;;ITq1
'BPT~
fl1c;rr I, ~
3ltt ~,tt cf;
tr ~
ffit ~
j
10 I

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~
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4" ' .

~-~ cf; ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ WT I ~ ~ ~ Cfiffi a1tt fm;-cr 1R -cr:fc:~

<fiT (>lCflt(lc-l1Cfl~ ~ I~ ~ cf;crc;r ~ 3lr:r ~ ~ ~ Cfiffi ~ ~ wm: 3ll<lT I .
19cff~ ~ wr-=rr ~ ~ 3ll"f cf; ~ ~. ~ cf; ~ I ~ -cr:fc:~~ cf; .
CfiT(Uf itffi ~ m WfiT I~ ~ 00 % fct> ~-~ ~ ~ <fiT ~ ~ ~ afR
W~ ~ ~ If!ITI ~ ~ $f{1~I~q cf; ~ 1R -cr:fc:~<fiT~ >Nl'f
(>lCflI(lc-l1Cfl \m I

21.4.2 ~

(~ \31<1$(01 'Qjt:p ~ cf; ffi.9 "Tourism Craft Ribbon in Thailand" it fW:rr If!IT%;
Tourism Management vol. 16 No. 3 May 1995) ~ ~ ~ <fiT mm ~ it ~ I
1960 afR 1990 cf; ~ ~ 3lR ~ ~ ~ "ffia:rr~ me :rrr it ~ ~ ~ I
1960 ~ cf;crc;r 89,000 ~ ~ W ~ ~ ~,'1973 ~. ~"ffia:rr 1,00000 m~
afR 1990 ~ 31N 31N ~"ffia:rr 53,00000 :ocfi' ~ ~ I chHfts<Dll -cr:fc:~~ mm-rn
cf; ~-~ -q<fz~ <fiT'~
~ mm ~ I~ q;),~ ~ If!ITafR ~ ~
~funif~cffi't~~ WTI ~ ~~~w-q<fz~ ~~ m{
~ <i?r, ~ Cfiffi 3lh: fm;-cr cf; mm ~ 3lh: ~ fct>m I
,
~ cf; ~ q(4=q(IJld ~ ~ ~ 1flfc~~ it ~ ~ ~ q ~: m +m1 <i?r
~ ~ ~ ~ cf; ~ ~ <i?r ~ ~-q'IR1ii'i<fiT wm 'WIT Lf9ill mI
~ cf; mm, ~ of 3MIlIWi ~ ~' ~it 3lR ~ cf; >rqffi ~ ~ afR
~ ~ ~ it ~ fm;-cr ~ <fiT~ ~3lT I ~ cf; fcf;-;:ffi: -rntT--rntT ~
-@c;fi ~ ~ ~: ~ cf; ~ ~ ~ IT{ ~ ~ m~I ~ ~
~~~<fiT~ -;:ffi'tfct>m"lTWI'ill%~~ ~~~~ ~ r

~ <fiT f.1l1fur~: ~ <i?r UlR ~ ~ 1ft fct>m \lfTill % I '

~~~cf; ~.~ ~ 'fiimm<rr ~ ~ ~J ~ >!CPR~~~

• ~ mctt ~ ~ muJ111T2lf afR ir ~ -rntr ~ 1R ~ m 2lf I ~ ~
~ 3lTCflR~~m-w m~ ~ 1ft WflR cf; ~~~ ql'~ ~~ lTfq
r <fiT"ffi'l1R mt ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ \lfTill mI~ ~ cf; ~ ~ ffilT 1ft '
rn ql 3Wr'~~ ~~ ~u WflRcf; ~~~ WTI ~~ffi1IT ~
~m ~ ~'~ ~~ 3lWf 3lWf ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ,C1lft I
r
'.
~WflR~~ ~'~. ~ ~ cf; ~-~~ ~%Iir ~ fchCfJf1'h::('
~ ~~ ~~~ afRm.rrt<n' ~ ~ ~ ~~m%lir ~ ~~
3TR, ~ GfTBT ~ 1R ~ m ~ I m ~-~ ~ ~ mctt ~ ~ ~-~
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ I rrt<n'cf; ffcflC ~ ~ LR lTfq cnffi ~ f~k1fchlld mctt % afR
~ (l\lIl1lJn 1R ~: ~ cf; ffi1IT ~ ~ ~'I
, .
'

~ fm;-cr-~ ~ cf; mm it ~ ~ fm;-cr cf; ~ ~ ~ <Sll1cttt) ~ % I

~ afR~~lIDIT~~it ~%I ~-qlR1~.~ ~~~~Cfi11m ~
% I W WflR cf; wqqf it ~ <i?r ~ ffi'l1 ~ %1~ ~ fm;-cr f.1l1fur~ ~ <i?r
..
~
m ftit ~m
~I W>!CPRir ¥R ~ cf; ~<fiT~ ~~ ~~I
~ ~ Cfiffi afR fm;-cr cF'r 3l "ft *<Dll ~ ~ ~ % afR ~ 3lh: 3l"ft (fts{lll
~ ~ \3qC1<SUdlcf; CFRUt ~ ¥ >rr:f: q(4=q(IJld ~ <i?r;:p:rr ~ ~ ~ %I

~ ~ 00 % fct> ~~R14'i ~ .~ 3T'4T~ l1$c-'1'j\of % afR ~, ~ cf; ~ ~ afR

M<fiT ~:rm=nr ~ ~ ~ 1ft.~ \lfTill % I ~ ~ ~ ~ it
~ afR ,'\31Cf; fm;-cr <i?r '¥ ~.~ %I

- 11,

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13
 ~ LfTOO" m if 'l1ffif if Qtt1~1~4('fiT ~ ~: mm if; ~ fcf;m \JfT m ~ I
~~~~~I mmif~: 9 ~~l1Pr~: ~ifwn{~1TC;~,
~ if ~ Cfl<'1ltlBlOli,~ if; ~, ~ if ~~, ~~, Wc1, urtT,
Cflftl41CflI{) ~ 1TC;~ 3TR fucy: Qtt1~1~4,,~ ~ if wn{ ~ 1TC;~, ~
~, ~ if ~ Cfl<'1ltlBtfi altt ~ if; ~ ~ l1Pr m ~ ~I W ~ ~
~<nft~m~1

1960-61 ~ WR 1992-93 if; ~ ~ Qtt1~lflI mm ~ ~ if 13.7% ~ ~

if;
~ ~~ cwr mm lfT?f 9.1 % ~ ~ I ~ ~ mm if WCfiT frnrr 1960-61 if •
1.5% m un- fcf; 1993-94 if ~ 4.8% mw:rr I
•
sfc;R if Qtt1~1~4 f.1lOlfu 'fiT cwr WlOl"W >fCFR ~ I
6~~1~ ~ (~~ 3fR ~ <tit~)

1960-61 2~ 30 C1RCf ~
1993-94 107 ~ 11 C1RCf ifff{

~ ~ altt ~ ~ f.1lOlfu ~ ~ ~ ~ un- W >fCFR ~

~~3lR~~

1961-62 1~ 89 C1RCf~

1971-72 '6 ~,47 "(1RCf ~

1981-82 89 ~ 99 C1RCf, ~
1992-93 305 ~ 2 C1RCf ~

(if ~ ~ mn ~ altt ~ VP1f if; Handicrafts Exports Global Trends and Future'
Prospects, 1995 if 1W:rr w:rr ~ I) •

tJ1.fc~-2t 'l1ffif if 4{~4{IJld ~ ~,~ if ~ if ~ l1GG ~ ~ I ~ Ml ~ ~

3TR ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ I W CfiRUTcmT 'fiT Qtt1~1~4 ~ un- 1974-75 if 20
~ ~ m 1988-89 if ~ 154 ~ ~.m w:rr I ~ 3lffiCIT Qtt1~1~4 ~ if
~ ~ ~ I 1974-75 if ~ 80 ~ffi"rIT ~ ~ f?rc;rr m un- 1988-89 if ~
2 C1RCf m
1plT I un-~ f1lOlBlr~4 ~ OOR ~ ~ ~ m
~ I

~ ~ : oqfcl:a<fi ctT mr
fu0l 1974-75 1988-89

~ .,.. 4,000 64,500

, Cfl!i~41CfllJl 4,000 24,600

~ 2,000 3,700

~ 900 5,700
, '~iM)
~ 'fiT "CflTll 2000 4,600 "

14
(~ 3ffillG W if; "Export Marketing of Kashmir Handicrafts" ~ ~ ~ I)

I
I.

~-~ ~ cf; 31T111=Rif ~ ~ ~ cffiT-~ w wm 'PT WPm ~ ~ ~;

~ 3ltt m wcf; d«It}{OI % I ~, ,~ ~ ~, ~, l"It}I{llSc;. ~ cf;
q{~q {!lId t}fd~l(Ccfi ~ 3ltt ~ ~ wm cf; ~ cf; ~ ~ ~ %1
,
)

',21.6 ~~<tT~
, .
~ ~ cf; ~ f<Ncf cf; t}fd~l(Cq f.1md-if ~ 'PT cllfdfiiCfl ~ {"idllSl"l1Cfl ~
~ I 1991 if ~ ~ ~ : ~, ~, ~ ~.3ltt ~ 'PT ~ f<Ncf
'~·if 11% 3ltt m 'PT ~ 9.5 % 21T cnft 'l1f{Cf 'PT ~ ~ 1.31 %21T 1 "Q,Cfl ant
I~ m 'PT ~ 1980 if 3.6% #~ 1991 it
9.5% it 'PIT cnft 'l1f{Cf cf; ~ if • i

.f1rDqC ~ 3ltt 1988 if 1.34 # ~ 1991 if 1.31% it <r{ 1 P1~1fc1f@d 'PT,{ult# w

'>rCflR 'PT 3l{"i,11lSl"l1Cfl WPm ~ 1 .

tfi) ~ 3iff.l{"i,(~'11 'fiT 3fflTCf< ;' ,

.·i

mill 'PT t}fd~l(Cq ~ ~:,~. ~ if men ~ 1 ~3ltt ~R cf; ~

. i'
~ cf; 3MlCf cf; CfiROT ~ ~ qA' # ~ Lf~ <mtt % 1~ \iW ~ ~ l1PT ~ ;

~ Cf6T~ eFt ~ ,fitQ: ~ ~ Jffi1T 'PT ~ cg ~ unm ~ 1 w# ~ if

~ eFt '{"fRCf ~ ~ .~ 3Fmf: fufq eFt tT ~ ~ ~1
eFt m # ~~;
!

,~ l1Tff >fT.IR 'PT' 3T'iwr, mWill CfiT 3MlCf, ~ ~ CfiT

3lm'f ~ ~ ~ ~. ~{"l·(T.l11\l"ICfl ~ tT % 1 q{~q{!lld ~ cf; 3llCf)R >rCflR
if ~UR m 'PT WK1' ~ M unm ~ ~ ~ eFt ~ if fctfc1Uill ~ 3lT<mtt
~I .

I~) ~i5f11R~~'fiT~

.~ t}fd~l(Cq if amt ~ ~ TR ~ 3l'tt dCfl11cN 'PT >rWrM "IT ,@%I

\3 «1t?{OI fc:m: ~
cf; ~ ~ ~ ~tT cf; '~1' ~ cf; fc:m: ~ # ~ ~ cWr
"q[Cfi 'PT ~ cg ~ % ~ l"I!l~rf1td "q[Cfi 'PT ~ m# ~ if ~ :fIT
~ cFt ~ ~ ~ 1 W >rCflR ~ CfCflCfr 'PT ~ cg am 'PT ~ ~ ~
"IT 'BCfl'ill ~ I ~: m if ~ 3ltt ~"l I~11if ~aR ffiCfl{ cffiTcf; q Fq (!l Id ~ eFt
3l~d{flS<011 ~ if 3l1ffiT 'PdR if \.99T cg ~ 'PIT ~ 1
" .
7f ) ~ 'fiT 3fflTCf

~ ~ cf; w~ if ~ m cf; fc:m: ~ 'PT 3MlCf men ~,l 3lCf: ~ ):

~ #~ ~ ~ 'R 'Cfl\Jf B11 ~ ~ I 'w# l' cf;crc;r ~ ~ t:IGW ~ 1 ~
,~ ~ eFt ~ 3l'tt \ffiCf; ~ ~ 'R ~ f.D:i?ro:T~ 'W "'1Tc'IT ~ 1~ eFt ,.
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ if ~ cFt Slklihfi1dl if ~ ~ -qffi %1
~) ~ aij{"ial'1 '<tiT 3fflTCf
~ t}fd~l(Cq ~ if {"lll"ll~l1d: ~ ~UR 'PT 3MlCf WIT \JfmT ~ 1 ~ dllqlf{l/l
eFT l1PT cf; ~ @1R ~ % 3TR ~ ~ wr ~ % fcf> ~. Cfiif'~ %1~
~ cf; 3MlCf if "Q,Cfl ~ 'R ml=fR 'PT \iflITCf it 'BCfl'ill ~ ~ ~ ~ 'R ~ , !.

~ l1PT it ~ it 'BCfl'ill ~ 1w# 3Fmf: ~ if filuctc 3lffit ~ 3ltt w#

dllqlf{l/l 3ltt CflI{)JI(j ~ eFt tnGf mm ~ I
i) ~~ffto::
~ ~'t:t"Ifc1l/l eFt ~ W ~~ ~ ~ CflI{)JI?i cf; ~ 'R'~.~ I ~ cf;crc;r ~ cf;
~ tT ~ ~.~ ~ ~ i '1'P1 'R ~ ~ ~ ~I CflIt)JI?i cf; 'lffi ~ ,
~ (fCfl ~ 'Cflr m'\Jfft:<:rr ~ men ~ I m~ 'PT ~ if 'm ~ ~
R ~ ~ "ill w# l' cf;crc;r Cfll{)JI (j. eFt ~ 1?mT~ ~ q\r 3T1T~ ~ ~ if
m~~~1 <: . C
15
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~ :~ am: ~ WCf'R m ttR 'R "W ~ if ~m cm Cf1T>I"lIM ~ m % I WIT (SEW A; Self
Employed Women's Association) m~ Tn:~ ~ ~ "W ~ if ~m cm Cf1T
>I"lIM ~ -w ~ I

1~~2 I
1) ~ "if; ~ m if $tt1~I0i "if; mm- if m~Cf>'T ~ 'R ~ ~ I

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21.7 ftl'd!11

'I1mf if fVwq mfur Cf>'T 'Wtffi W ~ %I ~ ~ tT ~

~ wnuT f1ic;R ~
m~ ~I~ ~ ~ lfUf pr GCfl ~ fficR ~ iruT 1:61am: ~ CfiTC1if !ffi"
m ~ 'R ~ 7l<IT I ~ ~ ~ if mm- ~ am: ~-~ ~!I)iSJ(1l~ ~
~ I~ 3Tlq~~~ICfi CfiTC1if ~JO'1R1R.q(1 ~ CfiR1JTI ~ ~ 'KR m WIT :

Cfi) ~q~~~ICfi mTff'1" ~ ~ ~ cpf cFi ~ ~ ~ I ~ ~ w.rUT ~ ,

Cf>'T .wr if ~ ~ I
\.Cf) ~ W~ ctcRT ~ -a:rr:!f{ 'R ~ ~ CfiFll1 m ~CfilDJI?i "if; -qm j
<ITtT ~ ~ -- <IT ill ~ ~ if 3llRT ml1R ~ <IT 3llRT urn ~ ~ I
1f) .~ ~~ ~~l=ffi1"if; ~~if 3lR ~m~~ ~~
Cf1Tffitr m~ I '
-q) ~q~~~ICfi ~ Cf>'T ~ ~ Cf>'T ~ ~ ffiiIT cFi am: ~ o/lT ~ ~
CffiUT ~ $tt1~I~t{j Cf1T~ am: ~ ~ 7l<IT I

~Id~iil~{ CfiTC1if WCf'R ~ $tt1~I0i"if; ~ cFi ~ am: ~ ~"if; ~ ~

>!"lm1 ~ I ~ ~ ~W3IT, ~, ~, ~, 3f1B'~, ~ ~ ~ "if;
3TmCf "if; CffiUT ~ mm- Cf>'T, Tffct Mm % I ~ ~ if WCf'R am: lh: ~
WTo'1T "if; ~ am: ~ Cf>'T 3l1cw4'CfldI % i -, .;;'

21.8 inI ~ ~.~

1~~1 I
1) ~ 'qT1f 21.2
2) ~~21.3,2

1~~2 I
1) ~~ 21.4,2
2) ~ -mr 21.6
16

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22.5.1 ~ ~ *"5{CliR

22.5.2 ~~
22.6 ~am:~
22.7 mmr
22.8, ~ w-?f.-fi \R'O{

22.0 3~~!t<~

~ ~ ~ ~ m«f cf; ~ q{lOq{iJlct ~ ~ fm:.~,~, ~ a1ttaT§;M ~

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• ~ qfUffi ~ ~ ~ ~,-arm'm,
• "~ ~ cf; ~* ~ ~ct'rl"111Chlfl ~ 9>< m,

• ~cf;~ctn~m, am:

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, ~ ~,~ ~ 21 ~ PR ~ cf; <!l1"1lflCh{OIct'r~'~ ~ I~ m m«f 3TffiCIT (

~ ~ ~ "tf{+=tffi~ '1ft ~ ~ '9><11rT ~ I 3l6f ~ 22, 23 am: 24 ~ ~

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1) ~cf;~ct'r~ c, •

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40
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~ ~ ijW?IM4 rn, rrt'~ 1985 ~) 14 Cft.lR:1Ol13fR ~ @t?IMlOl ~ ~
~if~~.~'R"C%~~~~~1 (AGolden
Treasury: Jewellery from the Indian Subcontinent, Susand~g,* Nina Smit~J}d J.C.
Harli, London, 1998)

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~ : f.rororr am: ~ ~ ~ ffi( 'tIT ~ lfllt fct; ~ tfi\1rcf ffficfm ~ fct; "~ twr, am: ~ cfi-~ qft
\ ~ .,m I ~m cfi-~ ~ '"lffiT31lCIlt ~ ~ am: ~ ~ m C1iT I
~ ~ ~\~.~,~ -qr{ ~ (11fr ~ 3JT1m, •.~ am:,~ ~,~ ~
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m CI'Tffi~ I 14~ct1qe:,c;;tr~ ~ ..~
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, 16<ff~*~~'~~~~~1l1l;1
~ WfiR ~ CfiT~ -aM'~ ~ ;) ~ ~ fct;m ?:ITI ~ ~ Cfiffi~ Wl'
TfM ~ ~ ql ~~~~~WTRlR~:cm~ 'W~r'~~-mq:;
fqrq (1583-91) am: ~ (1656-1712 t) ;)cm:l0l«) ~ ~ ah ~ ~ m~
mm cfi-qffi CfiT~ fct;m ~ I ~
~ Periplus, Indica (~ ~ -to ~) am:
iifGiHiil ~ (~ li~) ~ ~ \illii~l~ ~ CfiT~ ~ ~ I~ * ~
~ ~ ;) ~,~ ~ ~ \illii«lofI~ ~ ~ ~) CfiT~ fct;m ~ I'
~ ~ * ~ ~ * fc1Q; '<rrcN~ ~ 'tIT \illii~l;f( ~'-;;mft ~ I 17-
19cff IIldl~~ * ~
,
~ ~mm~~~~~ CfiTf.1<mfm ~I.

24.3 ~-~
~'l1m~~~~qft~'~'tIT~ml
24.3.1 ~ cw.rr ctT ~ ~
mm ~ ~~ 'tIT ~, .~ am: ~ * 'qffi CfiT fct;m ~ * -@er
~ I <.fi11ffi m
~~ qft~Mi ~ qft~~ CP{.WfiR*~~'~ ~ -,i) ~~,
ii) ~ eN wron, am: iii) m1rflRr I 4(i04(llld ~.~!WT'~ ~ ~ ~ ~q
~ ?:ITI ~ ~ l1Uf ¥ cfi-~ ~::cFf:~ ~ WIT ~ wr * ~.~ ~
,TfT~~1 . .

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~ lITlIT \ifTffi,~ I w~ ~ ~~ ~
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~ (alIcP) ~&1'tITW mm ~ I ~ cm: ~ * ~ eN 1:ffiR * fc1Q; ~ tr9T qft .
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.
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m:..-, ~ am:~* tTrm'tIT~mffi~lli~~ qft~~ ~ ~ 25 ~
m45~Mimr~1
mm~ ~ tt~~~~-W~I
CfiRYf'~ ~ ~~ ~qft-;;mft~1
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~'@R*~qft,~&n~mm~1 '
~ 1i1'1R ~ ~"am:wft~WfiR* mmCfiT~mm~1 ~'mm'~~ ~
~ afR ~ amft ~ crm wftmm ~ ~ mm 'eN ~ <fiTCfiTI4'
~ i5JTQT~I
qm;fA 1i1'1R ~ ~ am:wr * ~-~ tw:r CfiT~ ~ fct;m ~ ~ I ~ ~ 'qm;fi;:f
1i1'1R ~ ~ (hamp) am: ~ qft mfi (coir) <fiT~ ~\,~ C1lTTI ~ eN '
amR CfiTCfiTl4'IJ'~IGIC1
( wr ~ fct;m ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~eN ~ ~ mm ~
~ I ~, iflCflI~{),IfI~HCflI afR~, ~ ~~ * ~~ ~ ~ *
• 52
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53
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,

@!('a~I<?<l : ~ ~~ ~ w.1r artr~ f.1;=;; ~ cfi ~ ~ artrlfl1td f.1;=;; ~ cfi ~ cm

24.3.2 ~ 'ctiTctiW

~ "Cfi"OO ~ (horizontal) ~ am: ~ >!T'tfi;; f4BIT cli ~ ~ ~-~ ~ I ~

cli ~~. m ~~ lIT ~'~
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ I~ ~ ~ ~ ~.\ifT
~~ fcli~~ m-ftm~~'~~1 ~cN~'~~ ~Cfl1;~~ ~
\ifRIT ~ (pit loom) m 3lqj):tStd ~ ~ Tm:,m ~ CfAl.,.~~ \ifRIT ~ I
qi'Ifr-qi'Ifr ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~_ ~ ~ \3OT~ \ifRIT ~ am: ~ cli it<f;
~ ~ ~ "RCfT~ ~ I~ cli fm; ~ \3qCfi<uTfcm ~'m ~ \ifRIT ~ ~ ~tt
m~ (lay), ~. m m, ~ (~), 'ij'f;:rr (temple) ~ I~ ~ ~ q?r
~ ~ m ~ lIT ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ atr-{"~lt;~ cli a1¥ ~ ~ 'cli ~ q?r
,'~,~I

3FT ~ fm; ~ cli ~ '111i't.~ ~

~ cli '~ ~ cm m ~ \;ffffi ~ I
~ ~ ~ cli fm; ~"lt1i ~ ~ ~ m ~\;ffffi ~ I~ GRrr m'm ~.~
~ ~ ~ "RCfT\;ffffi ~ m ~ un:ft;; lIT "RCfT~ ~ I~ CfAl-~ ~ am: ~
'mm~ I rrT?; ~,~ ~ \ifRfr ~ I ~ ~ ~ W'fr \iIR qmt ~ ~ m~
am: ~ m~ M-~ ~~ I ~M-if ~ cli crr.tt mu q?r ~ \;fJffi~ ~
~ lTio ~ cliGffi~ ~ q?r ~ ~ \;ffffi ~ I >I1atq ~, TTto ,~ m.a:rr 64 ~ m
• 400 Cfcfi M- ~ I ~ ~ ~ q?r ~ mtr 20 ~ 30 ~ Cfcfi ~ m ~I
,mm'~ ~ if{>rtnR 'CfiT'~ ~~ ~~~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ CfitT9T1
~ ~~ ~-"¥ ~ (tapestry) ~ ~ ~ I~ ~ ~ (pile) 'CfiTm ~
~ \;ffffi l ~ ~ ~ M- ~ am: ~ ~ crr.tt am: ~. fcI:;trrUfT~ ~ I
J

mU \iI'i\illtn ~ ~ ~-~ .~ ~ ~ \iI'i\ilI~lIl-qv-q ~~ (basic strap) m

.~"Cfi"OO (loin loom) 'CfiTm ~ ~ I ~ ~ ~ ~ em ~ \;ffffi
~ (~*r~). ~ ~ ~ ~~ am: ~ crr.tt ~ "Cfi"OO (frame
loom) eN ~ ~ ~
I~ ~ ~ lIT ~ cli ~ ~ 'CfiT~, ~ ~ ~
~'~ l/-qv-q ~z ~ WRi ~ ~ ~ ~ <iTr ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ m!t q;) 3WPT ~
<IT-tm~~~\ifRfr~1 ~'CfiT~m~z ~~mm~ ~ ~ ~ miR~
~,~ ~ cm ~frnn~, =tr9.m ~ if ~ ~ cli <ITri ~itm mm~ I
31tPfT ~ ~ ~ m ~ lIT ftCfiT 'Cfi"{~ "ffR ~ ~ w 'Cfi"{ffi ~ I ~ an1t
.~ ~ ~ ~ m \;ffffi~ am: ~ ~ ~ ~ if ~~lld m \ifRfr ~ am:·w >rCfiR
~ cli~ mmcmm~ WffiT~1 ~ ~ mmcli~~~cm~ (beater)
, ~ \;ffffi ~ am: ~ ~ w m cli fm; ~ (weft) cm m ~ \;ffffi ~ I ~
~~ am:~ ~ fuRrrq'wmm~1 ~~ rfr-qr~ ~ ~ ~~ afR~
~ cf; m1t ~ m <;lIT ,~ w ~ \;ffffi ~ I ~ CfAl ~ ~ct1ICfiI< mm ~ am:
~-~ ~ an1t ~ \ifRfr ~ ~ ~ 3ltR' am: ~ ~ I 'ffR cf; mm q?r ~ ~
. 'cf; f.1cg ffilIT \;ffffi ~ am: ~ >ICfift ~ ~ M-~" Dhamija, Jasleen and Jain,
.Jyotindra, Handwoven Fabrics of India, p.135)
~,
~
~:
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m cli fm;miR
am: 3t¥Oll'ikt
cm ~
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q;l1f,
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~ ~ ~ UfTWRIT) ~ CfAl miR ~ ~ 'ij(;1 mm ~ I ~ ~ em
~ ~ ~ <IT~ ~ ~ ~ ~~; ~ mm vm-T rrr frnTI ~ ~ \;ffffi ~ I

1-ira-~1 I
.t) ~am:lR-~~cm'~~1
54

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~ <¥; ~ -aR dCfi;ft¥i qlTm ~ \ifRfT'-m ~ - i) ~ ~ mrr ~ ctt
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~ ~ mrr c?t dCfi;fj'1ii ctt ~ ffi \lffift ~ - ~ afR ..~

{beccade)
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tfTCrf 3tR ~ ~ ~ q?r ~ ~ oR 3tR 'I1Vft ~ ~ ~ m1tqlTm ~
\ifRfT! 3tRm~~mrr tr ~~ ffi~!1 w~~m~I,

~ ~ OAT 3tR 'I1Vft ~ ~ ~ m1tqlTm ~ \ifRfT~ I ~ ~ Wff ~

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~~~!~~ ~ 3R1lT-ij-~ ~~I ~~~~,frOAT 3tR 'I1Vft
~ "i1firr mm <tiT m ~ \ifRfT~ I ~. i:ffiT-~~ ~ ~ m1t~ ~ ~ ~
GW 111" ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ 'lTC0f ~ ~ ~ ~, ~ Cfi11 ~ 31T'tfRfT
! I~ ~ ~-~ ~ irt c?t f.li1Ttt ~ \lffift ~ ~ ~ m ~ qlT
tr m 111" ~ \ifRfT~',~ 3lRlR:<ttt'I1Vft.ctt ,fr ~ ~ \lffift! I

~) ~~~

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m '1( tr
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Cfi~GICfiltlctt \lffift ! m,~ iiATQ; ~ ~ I~ ~, ~ m~ ~ ~ .
m~1 Pi~JlI'j)~I( oR ~ ~~~~ W m1t 3tR~~~~,m1t-ij-
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Il1IJ1GI1~
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, ~ -«R ~ m1tqlT ,fr ~ ~ ~ I GTCfiT ~ ~ ~ 3IT{ ~ m1t~ ~-m?:f
m m1tqlT~ ~ m ~I ~ ~iid tl'1 ztsr Il1I&1GIrf) m~ m1t-ij-tT ~ .
\ifffiT !I ~ tr 3lrnR '1( c?t Wm: ~ mm -ij-~ ~ iA11J; ~ ~ I~ 31tPft
~ -ij- m1r ~ ~ \3OTffi! I ~ "fftU m Lf( tt ~ GRlffi! 3tR ~ ~ 55

I
 Of M Offfi CfiT~ ~ \jffifT~ ir ~ ~ ~ ~ ~~ ~,~ I~ cf;
m~·.qr ~ ~ CfiT m ~ ~~ ~ 24.3.6')

ii) ~.
Cfl) -qffi ~

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\':-

1) ~~~
2) ~~
.
3) ~~~
4) Gfilr Cfi1: m-r
5) Gm cfl{ m-r .
6) ~~~
7) ~~~~~~~
8) ~;f 6RR cf; 6fTG -6t ,~ mm i! ~ I

~~~~,~~ ~~'tR~.:.~cm:rr~

~ 3lT<5t d"fi1"lcN eN ~ ~ ~ ~ qijf ~ ~ ~;;U"ijCfiCIT ~ i).mTr eN ~ ~

~ ~ 3ltt ,ii) mTr eN ~ ~ ~ ~ I ~ q{+:q(llld ~~ SfilnIT: ~ 3ltt ~
q;m'UfRIT ~ I ~ cf;~ ~ ~ ~CfiT ~ ~ ~Cfi1: ~ ~ I ~ ~ ~
~ ~ ~?tlSldI31l cf; ~ ~ d"fi1"lcN CfiT~ ~ ~ I
I :

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.

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.

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\jffifT ~I ~ 6fTG ~ eN -{1r if ~ \jffifT ~ I ~ 3ltt ~ WT ~ ~ -{1r ~ ~
~I VjQ~~-{1r~~~~ atR~~·~~~ cf; ~ Cfl{6fR
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IT) 3f\iRCti
, r

.~ ~ wfi ~ eN mcf; ~ 3f\iRCti ~ CfiT m~ >Rlfffif ~ ~, 3f\iRCti CfiT .

~fH1 t).'1' Cflfll ~ (~ qlfil;~1'"1 ~) mm ~', ~ 31ffiCIT ~ ~ ~, ffi altt mr,
~ ~ ~ ~ cf; ~ cfi?i~, 3f\iRCti ~ ~. ~Cfl{ ~ ~ ~ ~. ~
56 3ltt~ Cfl{~ ~~~, ~~ wR~<Frwft 3ltt~ ~ ~\jffifT~

I
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~ IW ~ ~ 3ffiC'f cpicf ~ I W 1f{ ~ m ~ ~ "DTcf; m- -rntr ~ ~·~wlf
~ ~ fi:rc;nm "fffiT ~ I ~ ~ (CfiTc:) If ~~, ~iT, ii'iG m ~ ~ cf;
<ffi;rlf ~~-g[ffi"fffiT~1 ~lf ~ cf; ~~~~~~I ~~
(m) cf; ~ PR:.iT, 3lTZf, W' 3t('~f.1~~ ~ am:"YFfT cf; <ffi;r If ~~ ~ .
"flill ~ I Cfl'4T-Cfl'4T
W <ffi;r If w
am: ¥. ~ fi:rc;nm uircrr ~ I W ~ cf; ~ ~ "DT
. cf; 3lffiC!T~ "DT>fTt{fm ~ ~ I.~ ~ ~ -.=f'tC1~ ilTT "fffiT ~ I 3Ri If ~ cp'T"ijft
~ ~ cp'T\ifTaT~ I

~cf;~~~cf;ft'N~~~1 ~~~~mlf~
ncp'T~~~1 ~ ~ ~ ~ ~'NtTm.~-w~1 ~cp'T'
~~am:~~cp'T~~cf;~~~~'N~~M
"fffiT ~ I ~ cf; ~ c@1 cf; ~ 'N ~ M "fffiT ~ I

~) ~~Wlli

~ ~ cf; ~ cf; ~ ~ ~ ~ ffrffi1 ~ ~ ~ ~ Wc ~fGlllSi If

~ ~ I q(l"q'WId ~ ~.~ 'N:crow ~ cp'T~ (mud-resist) cf; ~ ~ .
~ ~ ~ filGlfIl{1 cf; ~"?I; ~ "fffiT ~ I if ~ ~-1'f cf; f.nlfu cf; ~ ~ ~
~ 2:rI 3ll\;f ~ ~ If ~ ~ cf; ~ ~ cf; n am: "ilR--&IT 'N ~
M "fffiT ~ I 17<ff ~ cf; ~ "Cfiffif ~ ~ ~ f.nlfu cf; ~ m~ ~
~ ~ ~ If 3ll\;f if ~ ~ ~ I ~~: if q(l=q(llld ~\J1I\'i";llf ~ '9!f m lR; ~ I
~cf; ~ ~~lf ~~~~~ ~£fu.- cf; ~~~ 2:r, cp'T
~ +Wr ~ I ~ 'l1ffi1 ~ f.nlfu ~ fi ~ If flq\I~9 ~ I
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III
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~

Cfi) 7fiPU

CfiRlT ~~ cf; ~ ~ m~, ~~~ ~~ am: ~~6RTm

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~ ~ ~ ~ ~ cp'T.~.am: ~iiifl~11 ~ WCfl~GICflI{1 'N CfiTl1~
3lT{~1 wlf~~ cp'T~ cp'T\ifTaT~1 wlf ~~'~~~I ~
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~, ~ If CFBC1cf; ~ am: ~ ~ ~. \ifTaT~ ~ ~'N ~ ~ >ffiTcF
~ IW cFRT:1f{ "ilR tr9 ~. ~ ~. ~ T.fR ~ cf; >ffiTcF ~ ~ I fcliSW1~ cp'T~
~ <lQ Cflffi ~ M (~1f{ ~ \J11~qlC11Cflfl1tR1) 'N ~ ~ ~ ~ l.~ 'N
~ ~ cfl(lfUlCflCf121l3TT
am: ~ ~ ~ M \;fTdT~ I ~ CfiRlT ct>ft"IGICflI{1lf
~.cp'T ~~\ifTaT~ 1.~fl~I"11 ID"U ~~ fiCfiRlTlf ~ ~
: 'N 3f'l1lCf11TllT"\J1TcIT
~ am: ~ 1J"~IGld(~ ~ (scroll) 'cFI ~ ~ ~ I
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~ ~ M~ ~ s{ ~ W1f{ ~ am: ~ cp'TfiI?iCflfll 'N~ ~ ~ I

.. ~) ~

wlf ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ 1f{ ~ cp'T\ifTaT% I ·w CflfilGICfllfllf ~

mTI ~ CflfilGICflI{1
"SfCflRcf; ~ am: ~ m :!~lqGI( -mc~ ~ (~) ~ cp'T\ifTaT t CflT\lf6RTm"fffiT
%, ~ ~ cp'T\ilmT %, 1lio-~ (w) cp'T\ifTaT~, fi ~\ifTaT % am: 3ffi1T~
~ ~ ~ %I .
fffi;rr (applique) cfm "\J1TcIT

W Cflffi 'N ~
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cf; cWr W Cflffi·if ~
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If 3T<m' cf; ~
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cp'T£§?i£§I~.IIf ~3TT~ I ~
fircvr cp'T-cr'fq .-r ~%
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am: Tr.~(irr.:::flTTT~r=11
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Cfip:f iF ~ q «Y9 «:llld ~ ~ ~ -w ~ I ~ iF 6Fft m~m qlli ffi1T ~ >!Cm:
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ 3l'R ~ cIT1T iF ~ ~ ~ M \lffifT % -wr ~ ~
<FT~ fct;m-.\lffifT % I W >!Cm: ~ ~ m ~ CfiliT, ~, ~, ~, ~ 31ft
~~.<FT~~~I

~~~~~~'#t~~",~~~~'~~'eR
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~ cf; ~ ~ ~ %I--wr ~~'CR~:~~ ~~, ~ 3l'R~

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~ $n(if '#t Cfl~"IGICflI{)% ~ (ql '#t ~ (darn-stitch) <FT~ fct;m ~ %I

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{) iF 3lffiCfT6fT1f ~
':i2,C1CflI <FT~ ~'iR 'C11lT% ~ :w:r <FTCfip:f ~ 1Jm % I
~ Cfip:f cf;qc;r ~ 'eRfct;m ~ %I ~ 3lffiCIT ~ 'eRmNr <FTCfip:f ~ fct;m ~ %

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~) 31ft ~
It', \

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~ ~~ Cfld, 'cfJl(lfUlCflCfld 31ft iF ~ ~ murr ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
~ ~ w:f eN +wr~ qlli ~ ~ >IcfiR iF m '1tf ~ ~J
58

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 . 1

1~'~21
1) W~~ 3wrCRlnr~~?

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••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••

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3) Pt 101 R1f@a cpf flrc;:rr;:r ~?

1) ~ Cfl) ~

2) m.=r ~) CfiW4R

3) \JI l+i Iell<: 11') ~G(I~IG am- ~;(JII~IG

4) cWn' tl) ,~
5) ~ sr) ~
24.3.4 '1'fltl·cila

cre;r ~ cf; ~ if '1<tltlaif:lcpf l1tkq~of ~ % I 3ll"f o/TffiT '1<t!1lai~ cpf ~

~ "W 1Jm ~ I ~, ~, ~ ~ 'R m~ tw:r am- \lfft cf; CfiTl1T~ ~ w
~ cpf ~ ~ \3fIill % I m ~ WfT ~ 3flJCfl 'R ~ ~ \3fIill i I ~ .
~ ~ cf; ql~~Cfl 3TT<m: cf; ~ mm i I ~ ~ w m 'R ~ \3fIill i I .
~ ~ GAT am- ~ 'R >rRl ~ cf; ~ 'B- 3l1'CflN1' ~ ~ ~ ~ 'R ~
\3fIill iI :

"flR'flrr <Ft ~ if ~ ~ cf; ID'U ~ ~ "l'ffiT iI~ ~ ID'U ~ <IT

~ ~ cpf ~ ~ \3fIill iI ~ ~ ~ 'R ~ Gf1TcfTi am- ~
~ ffiR "{1r ~ ~ Gf1TcfT% I ~ ~ if '1'tq ~ mat i I ~ 'R ~ ~
1U cpf 1U \3'dR mr \3fIill % I ~ ~ ~ ~ 'lR ~ urffi' ~ I lJl1lj ~ cf; 3lT \5fR ~
3liif ~ m.cOO W~ ~ mat i·am- % ~ ~ m cpf m ~
_ cf; ~ if 'Cfl"(ill i I 3lfffi; ~ eN ~ ~ ~ iI
Cfll1(1I~cfl
il c.'lq&l Ill, ~ *~~ m~, ~ 31Wf 'Cfl"(ill
TiC 58-61)
~

24.3.5 m dCfl;:ft'Cfl
wR ~. 24.4.1 'if tw:r ~', ~ >!CflR * W+r am: tw:r cf; ~ ~ cOO
~ cpf ~ ~ %I 3Wf ~ ~ ~ ~ Ft; ~ >!CflR cf; .~ ~ 3ffilT-31Wf >!CflR cF
tw:r cf; m1t mcm ~ I ffiqf cf; ~ ~ if tw:r cf; ~ WIT ffic~ cpf CflTl1 ~ ~
~ ~I WIT ~ <Ft w~ ~~ ~~;) <Ft ~ ~ m'''l'ffiT % am:
59

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-q-{ 9~-1O~ Wr ~ m ~ ~~ 3lT \JfTill % 1 m cF am cFr ~ m~3fc11T:'
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i'rcPfr if ~ ~ \JfTill % ~ m cFr ~ CfI( ~ =rn~ cF ,am ~ 3fc11T f1CflTC1 CfI( ;
ffic ~ ~ 1 mTrcFr rilCflIC'ld ~ ~ ~ cFr ~ (1R cF ~ STC1' ~ll mm'
PtCflIC'l~ cF ~ ~ w~ ~ % aTR m~ 'CfIll9T ~ %1
24.3.6 ~ ~ ctT ~
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Wr aTR 't:i;CP'm ~ ~ ~ \Tl:ITGT~ ~ ~ ~ \JfTill % 1 \Jfi\1,~ fcF ~ ~ 'f',
m \'if[l:T 1 ~ ~ W "flfR if 1TT9
l
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~ if 'f P1c1 ~ 1 ~ ~ cpr ~ ~ ~ mm ~ ~ '3)'1" Cfi9T m \JfTill
% I~ ~ ~ ~ ~ \JfTill % '3)'1" cFr "fRff ~~ if ~ \JfTill % 1 aTR ~ ,
TfIm'~ aTR ~ ~ (pads) if ~ ~ \JfTill % ~ ~, %T \JfTill ~

~ ~ if ~ ~~ ~ cpr '3)'1" f.1CflJffi \JfTill % 1 ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ l1ffiT ~

~ % 1 ~ l1ffiT ~ W cf; 3lTcf;R if ffic ~ \lrTill' %I aTR w~ ~ (fCfllTi{ 'C1Tc1
-(1r cf; f4c::,tt cf; ~ (0Wli) if -rn ~ \JfTill % I

'~m
~ it ~
'3)'1" ~ 3fc11T ~ ~ ~ ~ % 1 ~,~ 'l1ffif it ~ ~
aTR {urr ~ ~ 2ft aTR 3Kf: ~ ~ "C11Tl<lT \lIT ~ % fcF ~-~ ~ it'TICfIT
~ ~ 'WC1' q,'T ~ q,'T 2ft 1 'WC1' q,'T ~ if ~ (~' '~~-¥ (turll-tapestry]
~ ~ ~ ~ ~I'~ cpr ~
~ (weft) ~ q,'T 'o/ft ~ ~ R cf;
wIt ~~ (shuttle) cf; ~cf; ~~~~ ma-~ I ~it wt~ mm
~~m PruffuT m % aTR ~ ~-;f if "fIW '@ffi -{1r ~ *~ ~~ CfR cpr
m 1ffiIT % I ~ cf; ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ma- ~ I CTRT f.1Bfm, CTRT ~,
CTRT -q-{' mm ~ Cffi1T, ~ ~. Cffi1T, -{1r ~ CfTC1T aTR mfulr ~ I ~ ,
~ ~ -q-{ 3llflT ~ ~ %1 ~ '!ffiC1'~ ~ cpr CflTl1 10 ~ -q-{ 1ffiIT %;
~ ~ -q-{'WC1' cf; ~ ~ (,CIffi 'm1T q,'T ~ ~ %1 3RT if ,~ ~ R if
~ % aTR '3'flR cFr{ ~ % W~ -t)cp ~ CffiIT % 1

~ ~ aTR ~ ~ ~ 'WC1' cf; ~ ~ f.1llfur m q,'T ~ cpr mm 19c\T ~ ,

cF ~ if ~ m I~ \l'1Ol1~1C1(W cFr (~' ~ ~ WT ~ q,'T ~-q-{
(twill-tapestry) ~ \JfTill m 1 ~ ~ ~ cpr CflTl1 ~ fcl:;m~ '~ 1 ~ ~

CfiWt if ~ ~ q fct> 'WC1' cFr ~ alR ~ ~ \lIT ~ m 1 19c\T' ~ cF ~ it

~ ~'~ 'WC1' ~ if~ ~ q,'T ~~~~~I ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ I ~ >fCfIR cF
'WC1' cf; ~ ~~ q1lf ~ ~ q1 3ll"f ~ 'WC1' ~ if ~ ~ >ffiffi q,'T ~!ffi '
~ >fCfIR cF ~ ~ ~ mm "CfITq$:q ~ I
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24.3. 7 ~ 3~1G01ctr ~,
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~ ~ if ~ ~ ~ q,'T ~'if WT ~ CflI{lll {i ct>'T-:q-qf mI

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~ 'CfI11ffi ~ ~ Pt CflIC'lCfl( ~ ~ ~ CffiIT t~ cpr CflTl1 ~ ~ ~ ~.
~ ~ ~ I ~'~ ~~ mm cFr ~ ~ aTR 'CfIll9T ~ ~ ~ 1 1("lC'l111'1

60 ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ %T '\J1Till % I ~ if ~q,'T ~. ~ tT'116('Q'iuf ~

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 . ;:. ..•--~-

~.I ~~ ~ ~ ~ cf; 3TTUR lR ~ ~ m ~J ~ ~ 24.3.4) 1

~Wrrt~ cf\ ~ ~~~m~1 mmif'~cf\ ~ ~cf\~<fiT
m fcl;<:rr ~ '@ ~'I ~ ~ ffi m <fiTCf)TJ1~ lR ~ (~ ~) 'fcti<rr
m q 1~ 6'!R ~ ~ cf\ trwr ~-"J"U'{ ~ ~ mm ~ m ~ ~ I"

~ ~ <¥ trwr CflC-'liC ~ ~ ~ ~ m ~ 1~ 'a:rffiqTmm ~ ,11io

~~, ~~ ~ mm ~ ~ ~ ~:-~ ~ ~ am: TMT <fiTCf)TJ1m ~I GJ1T~

~lRWt~~am:~i~~~'I~~~~~I~~~
m~1 ~~~~~ am:~~<fiTlfCP~~1

~ VTfc'f ~ if ~ ~ >fCfiR cf\ ~ wrfl1c;r m ~1 ~ CfAT am:,~ 1f{ mm .

~ t dl\ilt\!!(? ~
.
-DiT cf\ '.
mm <fiT ~ ~ ~ ~ 1~ m CITffi
~ ~ ~ ~ 1~ ~ ~ 'lffiIT~; ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ if
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~~I CfQm~m mm: -mu am:1lt5f ~~~~I

m Cf>{tlf ~ ~ .~ ~ l1T?!T if Cf)TJ1~ ~ 1 ~~ if ~ ~ ~ Cf)TJ1

M ~'~ 1~ ~ 'qiif :eFtw CflSi'~ fqm Uflill ~ atR ~ ~ ~ <fiT~
~m~1

I ma-~3 I
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.<reI') <fiT~. fcl;<:rr 1fllT ~·iCflIU1<;;IJ;i ~ ~ 3lCffiU'lR ~ qffi <fiT~ "fR ~ I t
. >

: filim ~- ~ cf\' ~ ~ ~ CITffi <reI', ~,cf\ ~ :rw-n ufR <nffi' <reI', ~ ~ ,

~ ~ IITU 'WIT ~', CITffi <reI',' ~ -mr:rw-n :GfR'CITffi <rei' ~ 1 Tcft
~ <fiT~ m Wf "ffi1T fffi.crm ~'I iI~ (~cf\) ~; ~'~ m q 1~ .' \.
1Wl ~ if <rei' ~ q am: R ~~lR ~ ~ '~ 'eFT ~ ~ ~ q1 ~ cf\ <rei' 'I ;,1

i\iflfR ~~' q am: ~ ClW ~ Cfl'm ~ Gcfl AA q" 1 llcfi ~ cf\ trwr 31C1~~rJl
fffi.crm ~ iI:zt l:KlCff cf\ ~ ~ <fiT~ m ~ I.... ~: ~ ffi1f l:KlCff. cf\ -attlR -w-=rr
) Cfitl9T ~ ~ fcF ~ ~ qdJI41I1I' am: ~ ~ <IT ~ ir-=f ~ W 1~ ~ cf\ ''ii«1'1IC;'<~Ji ~ Q(PHllld ~

~ <fiT~~~mcrr~ am::zt~ ~m~fcFm~~~1 ~- .•• ," ~m{Tit,

~ ~ ~ ~ ,al'R <fiB' cg m Uflill ~ I"

~ >fCfiR:1("tC1~i11 cf\ 3lA- ~ ~ 'qffif if fufr ~ ~ <fiT~ CflSi'mm'm 1 ~:

, ~C1¥i111 cf\.~ if 3lA- <f; ~ ~ eft~, ~, ~ am: ~ <fiT~ 3lfiW I 61,
 m~ 1 j~f1 ~ 111 cf; 3lT1TlA cf; ~ ~ -qfun;:r ~ 1:fil"W >J'l1TCf
,cf; CfiRUT~ ~
CfCfl~ ~ 1~ tfi\J!C1 ~ 3l1Rr~, "arrfl~" it ~ CflIHClI1'iit ~ ~
"fA' qffi qf{tll-i'i eFT~ ~ m eFT~ 1 ~ ~ ""miq'il$ (~) ~ q;{ qffi
CP)~M~afR~~~~~1 ~~~eFt~cP)~it ~
~$\q'iuf ~ f.1~ 1~ ~ it ffim cf; fcW: ~ f1$lllj!i1 cw;r ~~ CfiT~
~ ~ C:;lffirft ~m \;flill qr 1 ~ ~ it 'WliT ~ SlC:;!1f'iI\~Cfl(fancy) -qfun;:r qr
~ ta;m ~ 'R llffi" (oocm:) ~ "fRfI ?ft 1n

3lT\Jf~ ~ it q;{ >rCflRcf,: cw;r 11R ~ ~ 1~ ~ ~ ~ al'ri. ~

=~_~~ ~ ~;~ ~ eFT j~f1SiI'i ~ cm ~ am- ~ ~ ~ l ~~
eFT
~ ~ afR ~ ~ ~ 1~ ~ 'q(iOq(llld afR ~ ~ 'R "4RT"\JfR
lffi1T ~ ~ ~ -@er it CfiTl1 m ~ ~ ~m ~-~w 'R CfiTl1 m qrc;fT
~ ~ CfCfl~ ~ I' <lQ WM1T ~ 'I1ffif it ~ "fRfI ~ 1~ W~ eFT
~ 3lWT-3lWT M ~1 ~ eFT~ ~$I(liS? eFT~ ~ ~ <m ~ ~
3lWT
~ ~ 1~ >rCflR~, ~ afR 31Wft ~ 3lWT-~ <m ~ ~ ~ ~ 1
~mrafR~eFt~~~,~1 ~afRqcf;~m~
~ J eFT~ it tT ~ ~ -qr{ "fRfI ~ ~ ~ it ~ tfl# ~ ~ 1 R$I (It>?
eFT~ ;:fr 1T\lfeFT ~ ~ ~ ~ Gftiur ~ eFT ~ "ffid" ~ ~ 1T\lfeFT ~
.~ ~ 1~ 'I1ffif if ~ eFT ~ <lfq ~ W 1T\lfeFT mar ~ 1 ~$I(It>? 3ltt ~
'I1ffifit (mCP)~) ~ ~CP)~eFt afR~it ~~~I 3W~it
, ~ ,cf; ~ ~ if ~c ~ ~ ~ Cf'+R it",~ ffr:rr \;flill ~ 1~ ctT ~
~ ~ eFT~ ~ ~ afR -6Tm 'lffiT Cf>® ~ 1 ~ 'I1ffif ~ ~ it ~ CfiT
m ~'anlT' eFT am: @IT ~,I ~ cf; m~ it ~c ~ ~ ~ ~)
it ~ ~ \;flill ~ I ~ eFT~ ~ ~: ]f\Jf ~ ~'~ ~ afR ~ ~,
\lrof~~

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~:,:
62 •... :r-.•... __
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~"¥~ ~ amtT~1 ~~~eN ~~ 3ltt q!ff,~<FT~fffirr~IJ' 11

~ ~ ~ I an+ffiR 1R ~ "fIl(1 -{1r cp'T'~ ~ ~ ~ I' ~ ~ <FT ~

~ llm ~ 3ltt ~ tnW 3ltt ~ ~1i 1:JBG~ ~ I ~ ~ ~ _'
"'IJO{Cf'iGI(,
"'IcCf'iGI( 3ltt ~ ~ cp'T~ ~ ~ 3ltt ~ ~ ~ I'~ >fCfiR
~C1JO{I1 ~ ~ ~-~ <:IT TfmT 3TR wiro ~ ~I~ cp'T~
~ 3ltt ~ ~ ~ I .~ ~ cf; ~ CF'lft-Cfl'4T lffit -{1r <FT~ fct;m ~ anU '
~
~
<FT * '4t
eN ~ll ~
'WfT'\;ffiIT
~ ~I ~
~ I ~
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cf; ~'~
cp'T~ ~
~ '4t 'WfT \;ffiIT ~ I ~
~ ~ I. ~ cf; ~ ~
W

~ ~,~I ~(1C1JO{I13ltt ~~cf; 'lfuwf C11T'l11T~ m ~·~ftR 1R~

\iTAq5 'lfuwf 111:fiCF
mm ~ I ~ ~ cp'T~ (m) ~C1JO{11 ~ ("CfiOO)'~ ~
~~~I ~ll ~ \3lFIT<mtt~ 3fR~~ -wrll '4t~~1
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m~
,

.,~ ffim cf; -qftm;:r 3ffi1f I '3lWf cp'T~ 3nur '4t qv:q (Ilia ~ <:IT ~
"3ltt~~~1 ~~oo~mm~~~~,~~ -acfi ~~I W c
, /
,-

I~ cf; ~~ 1R ~ ~ cp'T~ ~ I ~,.-tR. '4t ~ cp'T~ ~ ~ 3ltt.~ .

~ -aR 1T\lf m ~ W 3l14qlfga ~,~ ~ 'j'~ ffi' ~ ~ ~ cf; ~ II

~
,CfilR
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II ~'m Wrt M •
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i!ffi~l(Oq : f.rororr am:~ ~ ~ 1~ ~ >MJCf cf; CfiW1T~ ~ altt ~ ~ cf; 'lftaFf ~ CfiTtfiT
3RR 3lT lflIT % 1 ~ <ClI;f\ cf; ~ 1f{ ~ w: altt m 1:ffi1T ~ WIT % 1 ~ ~
CflT3lllf ~ m lflIT % 1 ~ ~ ~ altt ~ 'lR~ ~ ~1

3lT\if~~~~~~ m%1 m~~~~~ CflTC11fI11T

30% W m ~ mm% 1 m <@ C11fI11T38 (YfRCf ii~Ch(~1 ~ altt w 1f{ ~ ~
~ ffi1T f.1~~ 1 ~ ~ m m cf; CfiW1T~: 'llffif WCfiR ~ W Lf{ ~
uwr ~%I 3lT\if~ m eFt ~~~ eFT;ffiteFt ~~~m%1

1949 ~ ~ m cf; ~ cf; fm; WCfiR ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ 2TI 1

~ ~ i) ChI{)JI(j eFt ~ ~~, altt ii) ~ ~ ~ m cf; fm;
iil!:lCh(~1~ CflTf.1:mff CfiT-TI2TI 1 ql"{oIlAfCl~q, 3lftcn;r ~ fj'4Ch<~1 mi, fj{"d~I('q
mi altt ~ UI+13~~PI aw:iPr eFT~ eFT If{ 1 ~ ~ ~ ~ TT{ altt
~ eFt ~ ~ ~ lflIT 1 ~ cf; q;W'eFt 3lTBR altt ~ ~ cf; fm;
.~ Wm altt ~ SllofPI'\1I1('ilct
~ eFT If{ 1 C11fI11T
~ ~ miT if ~
fj{"d~I('q ~WI~+1 altt"{\\iq ~ ~ ~WI~+1 ~ fct;-Q: ~ 1

q:qq~ ~ if ~ m eFt %fCIT ~ lflIT 1 ql"{ollAfCl~q W m cf; fm; >rW1

q:qq~ ~.~ ] 1.10 ~ ~ CflT>rr<ruR (\.<IT lflIT 2TI un- ~ q:qq~ ~ if
~ 168 ~ ~ lflIT 11980,1981, 1985 eFTCfi119T;ffit ~ ~ m eFt ~
~ TT{ 1 1981 eFTCfi119T.
;ffit CflT~ i) ~ m CflT~ ~ CfiT-TI2TI altt
ii) ~ cf; ~ ~ ~ if \W1-~ mt ~ CflT~ ~ altt 'i.flOOCflT
311~•.nCh(OI <RRT 2TI 1 1985 -it ~ if i) ~ eFT \3,qIGChdl ~ ~ ctT ~
, J
~ cf; fm; ~ if dCh"1lcfilfctcpffi Tff.~ ~ lflIT, altt ii) dCfl"11cfleFt Sltf1JI!tlifll ~
PlChlflCh( ~ crcF ~ 1f{ <w ftin ~ t '. '

m ~.
1985 ~ fj'4Ch~1 31faRt~+1 11lfur M1 w;f ql"{ollAfCl~q ~, :rJIaltt
<N~~C:C\{'~ -af.:T .~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ 1 w;f ~ ~ >rqR->mR
M lflIT 1 ~ ~ cf; ql"{OIlAfCl~q 1992-93,~ 38 (YfRCf ~ ~ ~ 47180· (YfRCf
~ ~ CflT~ ~ altt, W qiSf·1033.2'7 ~ ~ cf; ~ CflTf1<1fu ~ ~
. 1990-91 ~ ~ 841 ~ ~ CflTtT f.14fu ~ m 1

m, ~ ~ ~ altt fu:ttR cf; fm; 3Wf1I ~ 1949 ~ ~ m mt ctT ~ ctT

If{ 1 ~ CfCF ~ m mi' ~ cf; fm; ~ a1tt ajii(lA 'i< ~'altt c:m: cf; fm; ~
~m~~cg~%1 w;f 3!ffiqT~tr4Tm,~m ~~
~ ~ m ~ cf; 3!ffiqT <fiN ~ ~ ~ ~'~' ~ Wm eFt q;W m ~ ~
~ wf; 1 m, ~ eFt ma-
B cf; fm; fcWq ~ 'afR ~ mm ctT ~ ~ ~
'~ctT ~ ctT ~ m, ~ ql"{tf1\J1111R Cfillf mm % 1 (1989-90 ~ 1995-96
~ wm:IT cf; LflflfCl~q m~ 1988-89 ~ 10653 ~ c4" ~ ~ 1991-
92 ~,11863 ~ G4" m lflIT I.
~w mCflT~m altt~~m cf;fm; ar4T~~~ffl%1
-mm ~ 'Gill ~ ~ fcl; ~ if ~ ~ ~UR ~ \3,qIGChdl ~ 50% eFT~ ~ ~ ~ %1
~ ~ ctT \3,qIGChdl altt ~ cf; ~ ~ ~ Wm 1f{ lilC1~ ~ %1
w;f 3!ffiqT ~ ~~Rl4i altt f1rp:TIctT ~. cf; ~ ~ m eFt ~ +m1
~ ~ altt 3llf1T m+lR ~ cf; fm; ~/liI;:f\Rll(f 1f{ tT ~ ~ ~ f.1~1lRT
mm. % 1 m,ctT ~ ~ cmft eFt ~ m, (~) ffi ~ Cfiltfit' ~ ~ ~ altt
~ 3llf1T +m1 m GU 1f{ ~ mm.~ ~ ~-oo ~ ~. 3l'j)qtf1J nm '\lflW ~ 1
ar4T W ~ ~ fm; altt ~ w:rM cpvfT ~ % fcl; 3Tffi1 ~ ~I {)J I(j CfCF ~
64
,wF I ~ ~ "¥7T >rTf?d it '4T ~ ~ %I ~ ~ ~ 'R ~ _ afR <f\tf
,
_ "¥7T >I"GFf ~ urR ~ IW ~ ~ 1983 it·~ (Nabard) ~ ~
.
~
~I ~ riCfCfl~ ~~CfCfl WT,QW~ ~~'lTm~1 ~~Cfli
00 ~ ~aRur ~ ~~'IPl'fl ~ ~ ~ \ifA1 ~ I~ * ~ * lffi'R ~
~ * ~fmlt~ ~ ~ ~* ~<N~~~'~ ~~
~~~~\;ffwFl

~~, ~ afR 1lfuwf ~ ~ ~ ¥ 'l'fCt ~ I ("li~ffi'fl 1llk~ afR ~,~ ~

~~ 31(11f~~\;ffWNIT%1 ~* ~ ~~ ~ ~'tRfctm
~ <N ~ ~ '\lfTill % ~ ~ m«f it ~ afR ~ <N >Ktflff G!1f;r CflUllT
\;ff wF afR ~ \Jl11'flID ~ \;ff ~ I~ 3lffiCITq{lOq{IJlct~ cf.SIT * ~ ~ ~ ,
~~~~~I ~fufq~1T (~*~~20~~it~
~ BMI<1l1 %) .q)- ~ ~ ~ ~ \iffiT ~ ~ ~ ~ '\lfTill % I 3ffilfGT<ifTG
<N
~ 'ifGtll+1 ~ ~ % '\'iffif WW'1T afR 'Cfffi ~ ~ ~ 'fl<1lttffil1i, 'ifi'tl9T
l?twlll<fi1, 'fllDJI(j *~, 3TlfG ~ ~ ~ ~ I <w ~ * 3lT'fllSfur <N iJ;cfi ~
~%I '

it .
3lT'lfm?:f ~ ~
Iff;r ~ *~ ~ * ~ <N ~
men- % I "1:ffii ciCfi fcl; m«f ~ ~ ~
<N ~ ~ ~
~
~ .
lTlIT % I WNlT ri ~ >r'f.IR ~R=ct'fllaIT

. m«f it m?:f ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ % I ~,~ it' m«f it ~ m?:f* ~

~~l1iJTW ~ <N W1fUf% fcf;~ 'Cfffi it ~~ ~ ~ ~%I Uj1if~ .
~ ~ M~ 'R ~ % 'W m~ ~ it ~ 1:RR Cfi«iT % afR GGf'W
~~afR'Cfffi~~%I3W1~afR~~~~it '
31lR ~ 1TR~~~~~~I1llk~~*~~it~~l1PT
<N~ ~l~
W~<NW1fUf% fcl;.~ ~ ~ afR~~ am: ~ m
~ I 1J;ql ~ * ~ it 3W1'\lffiT~ ~ tWt 'CffiT~ ~ afR 'Cfffi ~ am: ~
~ ~ tWt I~ 3l1R ~ am: \{!1ctGI (j ~ fuqR * ~ afR 1TfG1lT{ * ~ it
~~/Cref~~1

1~w.r4 I
1) +fUr ¥ *~ ~ q\{f.l1'11 it ~ ~ q\{qJ"1'j <N ~ ~.I

.... ~ ',' ~ .

65
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 24.7 ~I'(I!t1

'Ilffif ~ ~: ,~ ~ SII"t:l11dlOl
~ ~ ~ Cf}q9f ~ ctT wrrr ~ cwqu
~ ~ I 'Ilffif ~ (~ am: 31hl ~), ~ (~, ~), 4iJl~I,
(~), \il14i~I;fl (~~, ~) ~ ~ cf; ~ ~ ~ I ~ ~ ~
~cf; CfiTl1~ ~~~cp@ 3IT~ ~I ~~ am:~~~ ~~I
wcf; 3lC1m ~ ~ ~ ~ ctT~ ~ I ~ \il14i~I4l ctT ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ,
~ ~ I~ am: -{u;tT ~ cf; CFRUf ~ ~ ~ ~ *lRd4i <fiT3lT1TlR S3IT I
. CfiI!l~I{) '31rft ~ ~ ~ ~ (twill-tapestry) wtiT ctT ~ ~ ~ Cfi('l4jlCfilt'l' 'R ~
l:flTW >f'lTq ~ cf; CFRUf~
~ I ~ am: ~
~ ~ ~ qf{qd 1 S3IT I 'Ilffif
Cfid\~ICfllt'I am: ~ cf; m cf; ~ ~ m ~ I m«f cf; ~ 'l1TiiT ~ Cfl{ >fCflR ctT
~ ctT ~ ~ I ~ ~ cf; ~ ~ ~ ~ ctt q~Cfllft ~) CfCPwfiffi
~I ~~~~~~Wf&:~~cf;~~ctT~ctT
~~~~~~I

mcm: ~ ~ cf; ~ cf; ~ CFGlT~ m ~I Cfl{ ~ Sliflll!lIlC1lct, wW

~,' ~ ~ ctT ~~; ~ GU 'R ~ ~ ~ ctT ~ ctT ~ t~
aMTW ~~~~M\ilRT~~1
<:fQ ~ ~ fct; ~ ~ ~ CfCP~ cf; 'ffm ~ fuffi S3IT Cf}q9f ~ ~ ~ I
l1Uf ¥ ~~C1lOll'11 cf; 3lT1TlR cf; ~ ~ cre:r ~ ~ ~ qf{qd1 ~ 'l9ill ~ I
~qqIRl4i cf;,3TR of; ~ ~ ~ 'lfu.lA- ~ ~ ~ I

24.8 "

31\iRCfI' ~ am: fW!r ~ ~ w;~; ~ 24.3.3

~ am: ~
3ttilOlGI&1IG ~~ ~ =w:r ctT,~
~ •. ~"{m 1l1:ITCf}q9f; ~ ~ 24.3.3

~ l1C1'ffi 'R ctT ~ ~

~ ~<fiT~

G11lT ' ~ ctT Cfi~lGICfiI{)

~
1l\Nft nre=
~ ~ Trr <fiT=w:r

~ m am: w'T cf; fl1R-~ ~ <fiT~ >fCflR ~ l1C1'ffi l11fR S3IT

CflclT ~

~ ~;f 6RR cf; ~ 6liu 'CfI'"{ tit ~ n ctT ~; ~ ~ 24.3.3

~ 'dT1T am: ~ <Ft 3ffi1T ~ ~ 'R CfI~lGICfiI{)

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 OQ

NOTES

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 •

MPDD-IGNOU/P.O.1K1NOVEMBER, 2018 (Reprint)

'.

.-- .;:..

ISBN: 81-7605~217-5