Wine Enthusiast September 2020

450+ WINES
REVIEWED
CABERNET SAUVIGNON
AROUND THE GLOBE
PAIRING ITALIAN
WINE & FOOD
SEPTEMBER 2020
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September 2020
38
Cabernet calling
38 CABERNET KINGDOM
BY THE EDITORS OF
WINE ENTHUSIAST
Drink in the best this international
superstar variety has to offer.
50 SUSTAINABLE ITALY
BY KERIN O’KEEFE
Winemakers around the country use
organic and eco-friendly farming
methods to keep the planet healthy. 50
Salcheto,
Vino Nobile di
58 ZEST FOR NEW ZEALAND Montepulciano
BY CHRISTINA PICKARD
Explore the wide range of delicious Kiwi
white wines.
64 CHILE IS CABERNET COUNTRY

BY MICHAEL SCHACHNER
Take a look at the country’s collective
Cabernet past, present and future, and
the top bottlings to try today.
70 VODKA WITH A STORY

BY KARA NEWMAN
These four bottles go beyond basic
bases for cocktails that will delight.
78 TASTE OF VENICE
BY NILS BERNSTEIN
Create an at-home feast of the city’s
famous bar snacks with an abundance
of wine.
Cover Photo by Jens Johnson

and Food Styling Elizabeth Barr
78
Get ready to
cicchetti
2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2020

Departments
WINEMAG.COM
10 Italian Renaissance
THE CRUSH
13 Cabernet couples up
16 Produce potables
18 Vermentino ventures out
20 Beer inspired by the boot
22 Q&A with singer-rapper
Post Malone
24 Mad for Madeira
26 How to drink bitter
28 The truffle with wine
30 Special arrangements at
Italy’s estates
32 A real has-bean recipe
34 Verjus ethics
Columns
EDITORS’ LETTER
8 Celebrating Il Coraggio
BY ADAM STRUM AND
22
Post Malone
speaks up
SUSAN KOSTRZEWA
VIEWPOINT
36 What’s In Your Bottle?
34
Juicy details
BY JIM GORDON
LAST DROP
128 The Heart of Authenticity
BY JAMIE GOODE
Buying Guide
90 Austria 120 Romania
112 Loire Valley 120 South Africa
114 Rhône Valley 122 California
115 Spain 124 Washington
116 Barolo 126 Spirits
119 Greece 127 Beer
30
Italian
grow-it-alls

C E L E B R AT I N G 5 0 Y E A R S
O F AWA R D - W I N N I N G W I N E M A K I N G I N A M A D O R C O U N T Y
©2020 Terra d’Oro Winery, Plymouth, CA
T E R R A D O ROW I N E RY. C O M
VOLUME 33, NUMBER 6
Adam M. Strum PUBLISHER
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CELEBRATING COMING NEXT MONTH
IL CORAGGIO
Top 40 Under 40
Tastemakers
From winemakers
and vignerons to
executives, distillers,
brewers and beyond,
discover the new wave of
bold and bright beverage
Italy’s unbreakable spirit and rich wine culture are more vibrant than ever. professionals moving our
industry forward.
The
images were unforgettable and to assemble and perfect for wine pairing. We provide
defining ones of our time. recipes, wine recommendations and ways to re- The Santa Barbara
From the terraces of create the vibe of Venice at home. Explainer
apartments in towns and cities from north to Our other spotlight this month—Cabernet This California region
is laden with microclimates
south—for months during a devastating medical Sauvignon—goes global on page 38 with recommenda-
that yield a rich diversity
crisis unprecedented in our time—Italian neighbors tions from our worldwide tasting team. The bold pours of grapes. We’ll help you
in coronavirus shutdown united nightly with wine in of Argentina, the firm but finessed styles of Washing- navigate its dynamic
hand to sing, dance and toast together. ton State and the classic complexity of Bordeaux are landscape and exciting
wines.
Necessarily separated and confined, their just some of the top regions tapped in this comprehen-
unbreakable spirit and devotion to the community sive review of the world’s most popular red.
of culture, music and, of course, wine, was a perfect Also in the issue: game-changing Chilean Taste of Spain
tribute to a country that continues to define a Cabernets (page 64); fresh and delicate New Zealand Whether you like big,
lifestyle celebrated around the globe. white wines (page 58) and beautiful cocktails made bold reds or lean, crisp
sparkling wines, this
from vodkas with unexpected bases (page 70).
country has something for
you. We break it down by
style so you can find your
[Italy’s] unbreakable spirit... Cheers!
favorite bottle.
a perfect tribute to a country
that continues to define a
The Rise of Germany’s
lifestyle celebrated around Dry Wines
the globe. Legally required to be dry
and increasingly produced
in a bold style, Grosses
Gewächs are some of
In this issue, we celebrate the exciting and Germany’s best dry wines.
dynamic breadth of Italy’s wine and food identity, Learn what the designation
including Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe’s organic represents and explore its
best bottlings.
wine feature on page 50. From Franciacorta to
Montepulciano and beyond, Italy’s vintners are
doubling down on sustainable practices and mindful Core Competency
production. No wonder the country is the world’s We tap quality-driven
leader in surface area dedicated to organic plantings. ciders made in traditional
English, Spanish, French
We tell you how they’re doing it, and what to drink.
and American styles,
Moving on to atmospheric Venice, the celebration alongside recipes that help
PAUL ARESU
of cicchetti—or all-day finger-food—is the focus ADAM STRUM SUSAN KOSTRZEWA

the pours shine.
of Food Editor Nils Bernstein’s story on page 78. PUBLISHER & CEO EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Simple but delicious, these elegant bites are quick @adamstrum @suskostrzewa

WINEMAG.COM
Italian Renaissance
Winemaking in Italy dates back thousands of The Best of
years and made a worldwide impact that’s hard Brunello
to overstate. If you’re looking to further your Curious how the
recently released
knowledge, here’s how to get started. 2015 vintage
of this iconic
offering stacks
up to previous
years? Dig deep
Follow us @WineEnthusiast into the latest
from Montalcino
at winemag.com/
brunello2015
An
Introduction
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: GETTY IMAGES (2), JULIA LEA, BIBI GRAETZ
to Italian
Wine
From how to read
a label to region
and designation
breakdowns, start
your journey by
brushing up on
the fundamentals
at winemag.com/
italy101
What’s
a Super
Tuscan?
Born of
frustration with
strict rules, this Italian
style is behind
some of Italy’s Grapes Every
finest bottlings. Rosé Fan
But is it still Should Know
relevant today?
Find out at Italy’s rosatos
winemag.com/ utilize a wide
SuperTuscan array of the
country’s red
grapes to make
pink wine.
Discover the
varieties and
bottles to know
at winemag.com/
rosato

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TO EU REGULATION N. 1308/13
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CAB
BLENDS
WITH
BENEFITS
Cabernet Sauvignon has
created some of the world’s
most beloved and coveted
bottlings, but not always
on its own. Turn the page to
discover which red grapes
have been its best blending
companions. >>
WINEMAG.COM | 13
COURTING THE KING
CABERNET
PLAYS
With its immense
depth, full body
and capacity to age,
Cabernet Sauvignon
THE
has long been called
the “King of Grapes.”
And, like many rulers
throughout the
course of time, Cab
FIELD
has certainly had its
share of partners.
Merlot may be
its most known
PREVIOUS PAGE AND THIS SPREAD: GETTY IMAGES

companion, thanks
to the grapes’ iconic
relationship in the red
wines of Bordeaux,
BY
but read on to learn
SARAH E.
D A N I E L S , M AT T
about the other
KETTMANN AND grapes with which
L AY L A S C H L A C K Cabernet blends well.

CAB
C I N S A U LT
CAB
With typically high
SYRAH yields, low tannin levels
and generous acidity,
In the 1960s, the CAB CAB Cinsault (or Cinsaut) is
combination of one of the wine world’s
Cabernet Sauvignon CAB SANGIOVESE CAB favorite grape varieties
and Syrah, or Shiraz, to blend. Yet, its success
is what catapulted MALBEC In this pairing, the Widely known for their with Cab remains largely
Penfolds from obscure dark fruits and tannic three-part harmony limited to South Africa
Australian producer to Malbec is a Bordeaux structure of Cab with Merlot in the red and Lebanon.
global icon, both with its grape, so this duo has support the bright wines of Bordeaux, In South Africa, Cab
Grange bottling, which a long history together. red fruits and acidity Cabernet Sauvignon was one of the grapes
incorporates just a small It’s rare, however, to of Sangiovese. The and Cabernet Franc are to usurp Cinsault’s
percentage of Cabernet, see a wine from France combo is synonymous also good as a duet. So position as a leading
and Bin 389, a near-50- made with just the with Italy’s Toscana good, in fact, that the variety in the 1960s and
50 blend. two. Usually, there’s Indicazione Geografica two have taken their ’70s. But it didn’t do
The combo is at least one other. It’s Tipica (IGT), where it’s act on the road to tour so overnight: When it
increasingly common in Malbec’s adopted been produced since other parts of France, as first gained popularity,
in California, where home of Argentina that the 1960s. Its popularity well as Chile, Italy (most Cab was in short supply
winemakers like you’ll most often find was the driving force notably under the IGT as vineyards were still
Scott Shirley of Justin them spending time behind the creation of Toscana designation) developing. Provisions
Vineyards & Winery in alone together. There, the IGT denomination and California’s Napa were implemented to
Paso Robles use Cab to Cabernet Sauvignon as well as the Bolgheri Valley, where it’s allow wine to contain
add “a bit of structure, is usually used in a Denominazione di relatively typical to find up to 75% Cinsault and
ageability and length on smaller proportion to Origine Controllata a small percentage of still be labeled as Cab
the finish,” to balance add texture and body to (DOC). The great one thrown in to balance Sauvignon until the
Syrah’s “rich texture, soft fruit-forward Malbec, majority of these blends the other. Generally, Cab middle or later half of
tannins, and big, bold resulting in rich wines are still produced in Franc brings finesse, the 1970s. In Lebanon,
fruit up front,” he says. with dense tannins. Tuscany at a wide range lift and a touch of the combination is
When done right, Cab- The duo also shows up of price points and herbaceousness to the increasingly popular
Syrah blends are plush occasionally in California quality levels. However, partnership, while among many producers,
in mouthfeel yet firm in and Washington, the blend can also be Cab Sauv is all about including perhaps
structure, with savory although most often in found in California, in the base: structure, the country’s most
and ripe flavors that Bordeaux-style blends the handful of regions caliber, color and internationally famous
dance in unison. with other grapes. where Sangiovese has a aromatic complexity. winery, Château Musar.
—Matt Kettmann —Layla Schlack foothold. —L.S. —Sarah E. Daniels —S.D.
WINEMAG.COM | 15
FRUIT COUPES
RIPE FOR THE DRINKING A

cross the country,
local-minded spir-
its makers have
found what may be
the best way to enjoy regional
produce, much of which is
Beyond grain-to-glass, these spirits capture area produce at its peak. available only fleetingly, at
the table: Distill it into lus-
cious, full-flavored alcohol.
“There are so many
amazing options when
one considers what grows
regionally,” says Dr. Sonat
Birnecker Hart, president
and cofounder of Chicago’s
Koval Distillery.
The small-batch, organic
producer makes a gin liqueur
with Michigan cranberries,
as well as limited runs like a
brandy made from sunchokes
grown in the Midwest. “[It’s]
delicious, albeit surprising,”
says Hart. “It tastes like
sunflower seeds singing an
aria in the sunshine.”
Here, four bottles to sip
like a local. —Kara Newman
CHARBAY MEYER LEMON VODKA KOVAL CRANBERRY GIN LIQUEUR JEPTHA CREED PAWPAW BRANDY HEIMAT RHUBARB LIQUEUR
This Ukiah, California distillery Think of this as a variation on Though it’s in Kentucky, the spiritual Though many people think of
released its first Meyer lemon- traditional sloe gin that’s ideal for home of Bourbon, Jeptha Creed also rhubarb as a fruit, it’s actually
flavored vodka in 1998, and it Thanksgiving and other autumnal makes a golden fruit brandy using a vegetable. For this bottling,
continues to produce this sunny festivities. Organic Michigan local pawpaw. Native throughout Mamaroneck, New York-based
spirit when the mild, sweet citrus cranberries are macerated in a base North America, it’s most prevalent Heimat sources long, ruddy stalks
hits its peak. Sourced from the of dry gin, which yields a rosy-hued in the eastern half of the continent, from upstate farms and uses an
appropriately named Lemon Cove in liqueur with plenty of fruity pucker prized for its lush, custardy flesh old German recipe as its distilling
the San Joaquin Valley, the lemons and a rosewater-accented exhale. and flavor likened to a cross guide. Its sweet-tart flavor suggests
TOM ARENA
are crushed and shredded, fragrant It was inspired by Italy’s aperitivo between mango and banana. strawberry-rhubarb pie, and it
skins and all, then infused into the culture, but it’s equally at home in a finishes with warm baking spice.
vodka for full-throttle flavor. cranberry spritz.

Deep roots.
Important in the vineyard. And in how we run our business.
TFEWINES.COM
GRAPE ON THE GO
VERMENTINO AUSTRALIA
GOES GLOBAL
Though Vermentino has popped up across the country, South
Australia has become a hotbed of experimentation. Koerner in Clare
Valley is notable for its skin-contact expressions. Equally innovative
McLaren Vale producers like Chalk Hill Wines, Mitolo Wines and
Oliver’s Taranga Vineyards explore myriad styles but are best known
for slimmed-down versions that are bright and light as sea foam.
CALIFORNIA
Megan Glaab, co-owner/winemaker of Ryme Cellars in Healdsburg,
The white grape makes fresh wines far from home. believes Vermentino belongs in Sonoma County. She calls it a
“bulletproof variety” that makes good economic sense. She crafts
A
true child of the Mediterranean, refreshing Vermentino evokes
skin-contact and sparkling versions. Even in warmer Paso Robles,
fantasies of beachfront sipping alongside pasta garnished with where Italian-influenced Giornata winery harvests riper fruit, the
golden Sardinian bottarga. A late-ripening grape with good wine remains persistently fresh. It’s a testament to the versatility of
resistance to drought and disease, it’s at home in coastal and the variety across the state.
northwestern Italian regions like Sardinia and Liguria, as well as
TEXAS
throughout southern France and French-governed Corsica.
Wine lovers swear by its aromatic, saline pleasures, while winemakers Vermentino has taken root throughout the state, but most notably
from south of the Panhandle region to Hill Country, where it
appreciate its potential for zest in warm, arid growing conditions. Typically, it’s shows off its citrus-spiked tropical side. An early pioneer of Italian
floral or mineral, expressive of citrus fruits, and light to medium in body, with a varieties, Duchman Family Winery sources grapes from cooler,
bitter finish. But rich, creamy expressions are possible. continental sites in the High Plains American Viticultural Area
Broad and textured yet fresh, Vermentino offers fans of Chardonnay and (AVA), as does family-run Pedernales Cellars. Ron Yates, owner/
president of Spicewood Vineyards, believes Vermentino has a
JOÃO NEVES
Pinot Grigio a taste of something different. Happily, the grape has spread beyond bright future in Texas, as it holds onto crisp acidity and elegance,
Europe’s borders to excite growers in New World regions like the U.S. and even in hot years. Other producers to know include Bingham Family
Australia, where winemakers hunt for adaptable grapes. —Lauren Mowery Vineyards and William Chris Vineyards.

BORN FROM THE SLOPES
OF VULTURE VOLCANO
The mineral rich soils combined with the unique climate makes
deep, elegant and complex Aglianico wines.
PILSNER, PER FAVORE
CIN CIN TO PILS I

taly’s winemakers have long inspired vintners the world over, but the country’s
brewers have become trendsetters, too.
The latest buzzy style inspired by the boot’s beer? Pilsner. The approach
marries a magnified zesty, herbal fragrance with moderate alcohol and high
drinkability.
American brewers’ latest obsession is “It combines a touch of what we love in IPAs with the sensibility of a crisp lager,”
says Matt Brynildson, brewmaster of Firestone Walker Brewing Company in Paso
the aromatic Italian-style Pilsner. Robles, California.
The style’s inception tracks to Birrificio Italiano brewery in northern Italy, circa
1996. That’s when Agostino Arioli, the founder and head brewer, created Tipopils, a
dry, bitter German-style Pilsner with an unorthodox twist.
In Germany, dry-hopping (a process that incorporates fragrant hops after
fermentation) is prohibited by the Reinheitsgebot, or beer purity law that limits the
ingredients allowed in the country’s beer.
Arioli, however, chose to dry-hop Tipopils. He used refined varieties known as
noble hops, famed for their earthy, floral and spicy characteristics.
Italian regulations have temporarily halted the beer’s export to the U.S., making
its recent stateside popularity all the more fortuitous. —Joshua M. Bernstein
FIVE TO TRY
LUPPOLO BIRRA ALPINISTA PIVO PILSNER TERRIFICA SENSE OF PURPOSE
Oxbow Brewing Company Schilling Beer Company Firestone Walker Wayfinder Beer Green Cheek Beer Co.
The Maine farmhouse New Hampshire’s Schilling Brewing Company Conceived in conjunction Smoothed out with a smidgen
brewery’s unfiltered Luppolo got together with Maine’s Inspired by Italy’s archetypal with Heater Allen Brewing of white wheat and seasoned
(Italian for “hop”) was the first Foundation Brewing Tipopils, this was built with and Modern Times Beer, this with German hop varieties like
to label itself as an Italian- Company for this “convivial both German malts and Saphir is a tribute to both Tipopils Magnum and Huell Melon, this
style Pilsner. It’s generously collaboration” that contains hops, and lavishly dry-hopped and Italian-style horror films. is a super-effervescent Italian-
JENS JOHNSON
dry-hopped with spicy, floral Eraclea Tipo Pilsner malt, like a West Coast IPA. The result Snappy, sunny and tinder dry, style pils from sunny southern
Tettnanger hops for a pop of grown northeast of Venice. Pale is a crisp, calibrated Pilsner, it’s assertively hopped with California. Think: lemon zest
lemon zest. straw in color, it drinks dry, with its bracing aroma redolent of spicy German varieties like delicately scattered atop just-
an earthy and herbal aroma fresh-cut lemongrass. Spalt Select and Tettnanger. baked bread.
reminiscent of mums.

Q&A
ROCKSTAR
ROSÉ
Grammy-nominated
performer Post Malone
pours up that pink wine.
LEFT TO RIGHT: GREG REEGO (2), MAISON NO. 9

From left to right: Founder James Morrissey,
Global Brand Equities; Post Malone; Owner Dre
London, London Entertainment Group
“Rosé is for
when you
P
ost Malone is music service What made you decide to enter the wine
Spotify’s most streamed business? want to get a
artist of 2019, but he’s also I was introduced to the winemaker,
someone you can absolutely Alexis [Cornu], through my friend James
little fancy.”
imagine meeting at a party in Morrissey from Global Brand Equities
a friend’s basement. Now, the multiplat- last February. My manager, Dre, and I met
inum singer-songwriter-rapper known James for dinner at The Nice Guy in LA.
for such hits as “Sunflower,” “Rockstar James had just returned from visiting the out to create with Maison No. 9: a high-
(featuring 21 Savage)” and “Circles” is vineyard in France. quality wine at an accessible price point.
also a person you can expect to have had During the middle of my European
a hand in supplying your wine. tour [from February to March 2019], Dre You’ve also partnered with Bud Light.
In May, he announced he’d be bringing arranged a jet from Paris to the South of What are occasions when you tend to
his gregarious vibes to the glass with France to get us to the vineyard. We fell in reach for beer, and when do you like to
Maison No. 9, a 2019 Méditerranée love with the wine, the vineyard and the have wine?
IGP rosé. winemaker... Last summer, we also filmed I drink both. Beer is my go-to water. Rosé
With its planned June launch date a lot of my “Saint-Tropez” music video is for when you want to get a little fancy.
timed perfectly for wine lovers to sip there, too. It’s a nice switch up. Let’s chug a beer,
all summer, the bottling was created in then cool it down with a nice glass of
partnership with Global Brand Equities, Why rosé? rosé sometime.
a company that produces branded wines I saw more and more of my friends
and spirits, and Malone’s longtime music drinking rosé. I always liked the color The Maison No. 9 bottle is super slim and all
manager, Dre London. of it and the vibe that goes with it. Dre glass, and it has a sword on it. Why go with
“You either like a drink, or you don’t,” suggested we travel to the source and got that design?
says Malone. “We have created a liquid we educated on the juice. I wanted to make Swords are f---ing awesome, and I’ve been
all love.” sure we came up with something that’s into them since I was a little kid. I have a
Here, the 25-year-old talks about his easy to drink and doesn’t take itself collection of them at home and a claymore
foray into the beverage industry, and too seriously. sword tattoo on my face. The name of the
when life is most wine-appropriate. I think people think wine has to be wine is a reference to the tarot card, the
—Emily Saladino expensive to be good. That’s what we set Nine of Swords.
WINEMAG.COM | 23
SAILOR MADE
Off
the coast of Morocco, the
rugged Portuguese island
of Madeira features steep
vineyards planted in volcanic soils. It was
an important port of call during the 1400s
and 1500s, when sailors who traversed the
tropics would stop there for supplies and
trading products, including the local wine.
Exposed to hot sun on the open seas,
however, the wine would often spoil. So
its makers took a cue from Porto producers
and fortified the stuff with a sugar distillate
to ensure its survival through the course of
the voyage.
MADEIRA’S
Sailors soon discovered an added
benefit. The longer that Madeira sat on
their ships, the deeper its flavor became.
In the years that followed, what could
have been a mundane table wine was
transformed into a hot commodity.
MOMENT
Today, four principle noble grape
varieties are used to make Madeira into
styles of the same names: Malvasia (or
Malmsey), Bual, Verdelho and Sercial. The
wine is fortified with brandy and, rather
than rely on ocean air and sunlight to treat
the wine, it’s exposed to heat and oxygen
The fortified wine with historical while aging at the vineyard.
“The beautiful thing about Madeira
significance is finding its place in is, even though it’s a fortified wine, styles
the glasses of today. range anywhere from bone dry to intensely
sweet,” says Sam Gamble, head sommelier
of Atlas restaurant in Atlanta. While sweet
Malvasia pairs with desserts, he says other
variations work well with savory dishes.
At Los Angeles cocktail bar Thunderbolt,
for instance, Owner Mike Capoferri pairs
Verdelho Madeira with country ham. “The
Verdelho has a beautiful sugar content
level that’s going to match really well with
the salty, cured flavor,” he says.
Madeira is a great addition to cocktails,
too. Chantal Tseng, a Washington, D.C.-
based cocktail consultant, mixes Verdelho
and Sercial styles with spirits like gin and
Tequila to add salinity and complexity. She
also likes it as the base for simple mixing.
If you’re hesitant to buy a bottle, don’t
be. Because of its aging process, Madeira is
considered somewhat indestructible.
GETTY IMAGES
“Everything that’s gone wrong to wine

[has] happened to Madeira,” says Gamble.
“There are no bad bottles.” —Lia Picard

COCKTAIL OF THE MONTH
BITTER FROM THE BEGINNING

This cocktail shows that amaro is for more than just endings.
W
ith the majority
of its base herbs
and botanicals
found in and sourced from
throughout Northern Italy,
it’s no surprise that amaro
works just as well alongside
the area’s cuisine as it does
following it. This cocktail,
served at Italian-influenced
Rucola in Brooklyn, New York,
offers further proof that the
liquor needn’t be saved for
after-dinner sipping. Vanilla-
accented Montenegro amaro, Looking for more on amaro?
made in Bologna, is mixed Visit winemag.com/amaro
with bubbly tonic water
to yield a refreshing, low-
alcohol highball that would
be perfect as an aperitivo.
—Kara Newman
S H O R T L I S T
Seven Bottles to Try
MONTY & TONIC
Courtesy of Kevin This versatile drink works with a
Buckley, bar manager, wide range of amari. Select one
that’s on the gentle, not-too-
Rucola, Brooklyn, NY
bitter end of the spectrum and
mix with tonic or soda water.
1½ ounces Montenegro
Amaro Here are some great choices.
Tonic water, to top Amaro Averna

Lime wedge, for garnish Cardamaro
Paolucci Amaro CioCiaro
Pour Montenegro Amaro Cynar
into Collins glass. Add Amaro Meletti
TOM ARENA
ice to fill glass, and top Amaro Nonino

with tonic water. Gar- Ramazotti Amaro
nish with lime wedge.

Perfect Pear
1½ oz Tito’s Handmade Vodka Add Tito’s Handmade Vodka, elderflower
½ oz elderflower liqueur liqueur, and juices to a shaker with ice.
3 oz sparkling water Shake and strain over ice in a glass.
1 oz pear juice Top with sparkling water and garnish
with a lemon slice.
¼ oz lemon juice
PAIROLOGY
ASKING FOR TRUFFLE

The great 19th-century epicure Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin once called
truffles “the very diamond of gastronomy.” In that line of thought, Italian white
truffles, which grow wild from late summer through winter, are the most coveted
gems of all. Though they’re found throughout Italy, as well as other countries
in the Adriatic region, those from Piedmont are considered the gold standard.
These pricy fungi grow underground and share chemical compounds with some
beguiling, not-always-pleasant aromas like wet dog. When you pair with wine,
focus on their many more attractive attributes. —Nils Bernstein
MUSHROOMY EARTHY HONEYED GARLICKY

With similar woodsy, mushroom-like White truffles smell invitingly of While they don’t necessarily smell White truffle has an appealingly
notes—and even aromas of white the wet soil in which they grow. An sugary sweet, white truffles have a pungent garlic aroma, but you won’t
truffles—Barolo is a classic pairing. exuberantly fruity Pinot Noir could floral and spicy sweetness reminiscent want that sulfurous note in your wine.
Made from Nebbiolo in the area just overwhelm this quality, but one of honey. Marsanne features honeyed Choose to sip something with flavors SHUTTERSTOCK
southwest of Alba, the informal of the earthiest and most elegant pear, apricot, acacia and Christmas that complement garlic, like the olive,
truffle capital of Italy, its tannins expressions of the grape, red spice flavors that will bring out bacon and peppery notes of Côte-
help cut the richness of truffle-laced Burgundy, would be an ideal match. the truffles’ richer side. Marsanne- Rôtie. This Northern Rhône wine
pastas and risottos. If you’re able to splurge, opt for a based Hermitage Blanc would be an represents the pinnacle of Syrah.
Grand Cru from the Côte de Nuits. especially luxe option.

EVERYTHING’S VINE
ITALY’S WINE
BUSINESS IS BLOOMING
Visually drink in the Italian countryside through
its abundant flowers and immaculate gardens.
F
rom the ornamental horticulture of ancient Rome, to
the monastic gardens of the Middle Ages and pleasure
gardens cultivated during the Renaissance, Italians have
a long and lush history of grooming their already alluring
surrounds into verdant, floral landscapes. Today,
elements from the country’s more pivotal moments can be seen
within formal giardino all’Italiana, and many of its most stunning
carpet the grounds of wine estates. Some are living artifacts, others
are new. All represent a selection of the most beautiful and fragrant
places in Italy. —Lauren Mowery
ABBAZIA
DI NOVACELLA,
ALTO ADIGE
Ensconced in Alpine scenery, Abbazia
di Novacella dates to 1142. Founded
as an Augustinian monastery and
still maintained by monks, the abbey
has established an international
reputation for its wine. The property
echoes the crossroads of culture
that define its Südtirol location, and
its crisp, mineral-soaked whites like
Grüner Veltliner and Kerner taste
more Austrian than Italian.
Its sloped, sun-soaked vineyards
are anchored by two acres of
gardens, which are divided into
three distinct sections. There’s an
ornate, symmetrical Baroque-styled
area that's home to geometric
flower beds, ginkgo trees and a
giant sequoia. Herbs and fruits,
OF THE WINERIES
meanwhile, fill an edible section.
This is where monks source yarrow,
lovage and cucumber weed to
create healing tinctures and kitchen
staff draw peppermint, mallow and
PHOTOCOURTESY
chamomile for herbal teas. The third

CREDIT
segment features an apple orchard

that offers a taste of terroir without
ALL IMAGES
alcohol. Its slightly sweet Reinette

d e C h a m p ag n e, j u i c y A n a n a s
Reinette and tart Gravenstein apples
are juiced and bottled at the abbey.

VILLA POGGIO AZIENDA AGRICOLA
TORSELLI, TUSCANY RIVETTO,
SERRALUNGA D’ALBA,
Once owned by the Machiavelli family, PIEDMONT
the 15th-century Villa Poggio Torselli
is known as much for its grounds as Run by a fourth-generation wine-
its Chianti Classico. Just outside of making family, Rivetto’s original
Florence, its extensive verdure dates 1938 farmhouse remains the site of
to sometime between the late 1600s wine production for regional grapes
and early 1700s, when noted architect like Dolcetto, Barbera, Nebbiolo and
Lorenzo Merlini was commissioned to Moscato d’Asti. Last year, the win-
design the adjacent villa. Meticulously ery became the first in Barolo and
restored in the early 2000s, a walled Barbaresco to be certified biodynam-
Italianate garden that spans multiple ic by Demeter. Organic practices per-
terraces is flanked by wings of the fected in the vineyard now extend
building, while a formal English-style to the grounds and gardens, creat-
arrangement lies to the north. ed and overseen by Enrico Rivetto. “I
Unlike many of the country’s es- realized…that vineyards didn’t have
tate gardens, this was designed to to be the only crop on these hills,”
bloom year-round. Tulips and nar- he says.
cissuses emerge in the spring, while Focused on biodiversity, Rivetto
dahlias, medicinal herbs, thyme and dedicates almost three acres to 500
rosemary linger longer, and a dazzling historic and native trees like leafy
collection of citrus trees, some a cen- oaks, yews and horse chestnuts.
tury old, bursts steadily from terra- Seven types of lavender are also
cotta pots. The garden also boasts a grown here, as well as rosemary and
few horticultural oddities, like its rare sage, grains and an abundance of
mandrake, a root with hallucinogenic fruits and vegetables. What doesn’t
properties, once purported to scream end up in the winery’s kitchen is sold
when it’s dug up. to local restaurants.
For other picturesque winery gardens,

visit winemag.com/WineGardens
FRESCOBALDI TENUTA PERANO,

CHIANTI CLASSICO, TUSCANY
Tucked into the steep hills of Gaiole in central Italy, Frescobaldi’s Tenuta Perano is
well-known as a Sangiovese specialist. But, in recent years, it’s also established a
reputation for its captivating, pollinator-friendly habitat. Beginning in 2017, notable
landscape architect and consultant Richard Shelbourne designed and constructed a
25,000-square-foot garden atop one of the estate’s wine cellars.
Rife with native shrubs and plants that nourish local butterflies and bees, a
world of flowers, including yarrows, irises, jades, peonies, jasmine, wisteria and 20
types of roses, now perfumes the roofscape. Iron pergolas wrapped in more greenery
and terracotta containers provided by Tuscan artisans guide those who wander its
pathways to the osteria, wine shop and winery.
WINEMAG.COM | 31
RECIPE OF THE MONTH
IN PERFECT HOMINY
BEAN AND HOMINY SALAD WITH LIME
VINAIGRETTE
Courtesy John DePierro, executive chef,
The Banty Rooster, New York City
Pantry staples and seasonal produce play ½ cup thin-sliced red onion
1 15-ounce can pinto beans, rinsed and
nicely in this bean-centric salad. drained
At
New York City’s The Banty Rooster, Executive Chef John 1 15-ounce can black beans, rinsed and
DePierro has been known to serve creative cuisine that drained
celebrates the diversity of the U.S. This hearty salad 1 15-ounce can hominy, rinsed and drained
exemplifies his eclectic style of cooking. He uses canned 1 red bell pepper, diced
hominy, an alkalyzed corn product used in Mexican pozole, to add texture 1 yellow bell pepper, diced
and flavor to this filling salad. —Nils Bernstein ½ cup small radishes, quartered
2 tablespoons diced jalapeño
¾ cup chopped cilantro
Lime vinaigrette (recipe follows)
¼ cup crumbled Cotija or feta cheese
Chipotle powder (optional)
Submerge onion in bowl of ice water. Let

soak while preparing salad.
In large serving bowl, mix beans, homi-
ny, bell peppers, radishes, jalapeño and ½
cup cilantro. Drain onion, and add to salad.
Add vinaigrette, slowly and in stages, toss-
ing salad to combine, until desired coating
is achieved. You may not need all dressing.
Garnish with cheese, remaining cilantro
and chipotle powder, if using. Serves 6–8.
*LIME VINAIGRETTE
Whisk ¼ cup white wine vinegar, ½ cup
olive oil, ¼ cup fresh-squeezed lime juice
and 3 tablespoons honey. Add salt and
pepper, to taste.
PHOTO: JENS JOHNSON, FOOD: ELIZABETH BARR

WINE PAIRING
Von Winning 2018 Riesling Trocken
(Pfalz)
“This dry Riesling has notes of ripe stone
fruit [and] herbs, with a minerality
that comes from the limestone and
sandstone in which it’s grown,” says
Delores Tronco-DePierro, owner of
The Banty Rooster. “It’s a clean, crispy
contrast to the earthiness and spice in
the hominy and bean salad.”

SWEET & SOUR MIXIN’
xWHAT IT TASTES LIKE

Flavors can vary somewhat,
depending where grapes are
grown and the varieties used.
In general, verjus is sweet-
VERJUS REVIEW
tart and sour, thanks to the
grapes’ just-developing sugars,
gentler than vinegar, and
more complex than citrus. Red
expressions are typically mild
and possibly piquant, while
white verjus can swing from
polite to totally exuberant.
Here’s what you need to know about xHOW TO

COOK WITH IT
the other, other grape juice. Because it’s less acidic than
vinegar, verjus is prized for its
ability to complement wine
and food pairings. Substituted
in a vinaigrette, it’s amicable
to all sorts of salads. It’s also
interchangeable with wine or
vinegar in most other cooking
applications.
“I love it in poaching liquid,”
says Julia Sherman, cook and
author of Salad for President
(Harry N. Abrams, 2017).
She recently collaborated
on a first-ever, low-alcohol
sparkling verjus called Jus Jus.
“Poached fruit...in verjus syrup
is divine. And I use it to deglaze
P
ronounced vair-ZHOO, but a pan when making chicken.”
also known as “verjuice” in
American English, verjus is
made from unripe (green)
xHOW TO DRINK IT
Aside from Sherman’s
grapes harvested early-on
fermented version, you won’t
in the growing season. want to down verjus on its
Around since at least the Middle own. (It’d be too sour.) But it
Ages, it was traditionally crafted can lend an intriguing, crisp
from thinned grapes, those removed component to cocktails.
“It adds an acidic complexity
to encourage better ripening of the
that you don’t get with citrus or
remaining fruit and decrease harvest vinegar,” says Mike Del Grosso,
yield. The fruit is crushed and pressed, owner of Canoe Hill cocktail
but the resulting juice is never bar in Millbrook, New York.
fermented, and, therefore, doesn’t Try it instead of lemon in a
Whiskey Sour or Bees Knees,
contain a lick of alcohol.
or, even better, in drinks that
Today, verjus is produced at select incorporate other wine- or
wineries, and it’s come back into vogue grape-based ingredients like a
in both kitchens and drinking glasses. Gin Sling or Sidecar.
Ahead, more about the stuff and how
to get acquainted. —Sarah E. Daniels xAMERICAN BOTTLES
TO LOOK FOR
TOM ARENA
Kokomo Verjus
Montinore Estate Verjus
Wölffer Estate Verjus

WHAT’S
IN YOUR
BOTTLE?
Better transparency on
wine labels would empower
consumers to buy more
confidently and taste
more adventurously.
F
or all the hand-wringing among A few U.S. wineries like Ridge Vineyards, should be identified as such. Tannic wines
marketers about how to get Mil- Bonny Doon Vineyard, Dry Creek Vineyard should be labeled as tannic, similar to how
lennials and Generation Z more and Markus Wine Co. have adopted label some craft brewers show International
interested in wine, most winer- transparency measures, too. For many Bitterness Units (IBUs) on their labels.
ies are still ignoring the most years, Ridge has declared everything that Winemaking techniques are also points
obvious, simple way to attract engaged goes into their wines, including items of interest that could help consumers
consumers: clearer education and trans- like “hand-harvested, sustainably grown, connect to bottles and support a brand’s
parency through labeling. organic grapes;” “indigenous yeasts;” vinous ethos. Wines made from organic
Every wine brand has its own exclusive “naturally occurring malolactic bacteria;” grapes should clearly indicate their grape-
communications medium, which is the “oak from barrel aging;” “calcium growing practices. Same for the small
packaging. The space on the wine bottle, carbonate” and “minimum effective SO2.” minority of wines made with no added
box or can is wide open for education. It’s sulfites. Wines made in real barrels, rather
already paid for, and it’s positioned in front than with oak products dunked in the wine,
of consumers everywhere. Every wine brand has its own should say so, too.
However, very few labels tell consumers Wine lightens our lives in mysterious
exclusive communications
what’s really inside the bottle or what ways, but it’s time to stop mystifying
the wine tastes like. Young consumers,
medium... The space on the consumers with opaque labeling that
in particular, value transparency in the wine bottle, box or can is obscures what’s in the bottle.
products they buy, but even Boomers like wide open for education.
myself inspect food and drink labels to
find ingredients and hints about how the
product will taste. The move is both education and subtle Contributing Editor
In the past year and half, hard seltzers promotion. The truth is, many high-quality Jim Gordon has written
have shown the way on this. The nutrition wines have similar positive attributes extensively about wine
packaging. He looks
info printed on White Claw Hard Seltzer to brag about, and consumers would closely at thousands
has helped it get placed in “better for appreciate getting those facts.
TOP: GETTY IMAGES
of wine labels each

you” sections of many stores. It’s become But ingredient labeling should not be year and continues
an advantage for the category as a whole. the end of the conversation. Consumers to be amazed that
Consumers often seek these drinks out for want and deserve to know what a wine they convey so little
information.
that very reason. tastes like, too. Red blends that are sweet

K
i
n
g
d
o Drink in the best
this international
m superstar variety
has to offer.
BY THE EDITORS OF WINE ENTHUSIAST PHOTOS BY JENS JOHNSON
It’s
hard not to love Cabernet Sauvignon, but with so many good options available, it can be tough to
know where to begin.
From traditional French examples and iconic Bordeaux estates to New World cult classics that hail
from Napa, Australia and beyond, consider this your go-to resource for the world’s favorite red-wine
grape. You’ll get a global view of the best the variety has to offer, no matter what corner of the world
you turn to. Explore the top regions, the typical representations and bottles to stock up on, and discover the beautiful
bounty of this versatile variety.
WINEMAG.COM | 39
California
Napa Valley
André Tchelistcheff, a legendary Russian-born, European-trained winemaker, was among the earliest champions
of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. He honed in on the region’s ideal set of circumstances, from varying volcanic
and alluvial-influenced soils to its warm summer days and cool nights.
“When [Tchelistcheff] first tasted Napa wines, he decided that Cabernet Sauvignon grown in this climate was
destined to become one of the great wines of the world,” wrote Leon Adams in The Wines of America (McGraw-
Hill, 1973).
97 La Jota Vineyard 2016 Cabernet
Sauvignon (Howell Mountain);
$150, Cellar Selection.
Tchelistcheff persuaded his employer, Georges de Latour, to build a cellar to age Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet
Sauvignon in oak barrels for at least two years. That was followed by another two years of aging in bottle. The 1936
Georges de Latour Private Reserve introduced fine Napa Cabernet to the world.
97 Venge 2017 Beckstoffer Missouri
Hopper Cabernet Sauvignon
(Oakville); $125, Cellar Selection.
Some 30 miles long and four miles wide, Napa Valley’s long, narrow shape masks considerable variations in
elevation, temperature and topography throughout its 16 American Viticultural Areas (AVAs), from Coombsville
to Calistoga. Cabernet Sauvignon is planted on more than 24,000 acres, 51% of the region’s acreage planted to
96 Clos du Val 2016 Hirondelle
Vineyard Estate Cabernet
Sauvignon (Stags Leap District); $120,
wine grapes. Cellar Selection.
Napa Cab reflects the region’s warmth and sunshine. It offers a diverse exuberance of red to black fruit with
plenty of power and concentration, and captures the variety’s compelling savory components of cedar, clove and
sage. —Virginie Boone
95
Choice.
Heitz 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley); $63, Editors’

Lake and El Dorado
Counties and
Livermore Valley
Livermore, Lake and El Dorado may not
have the same ring to them as Napa, but
these Northern California wine regions
punch above their weight when it comes
to high-quality Cabernet Sauvignon. They
have value going for them, too, as these
wines are usually priced well below their
more famous counterparts.
Southeast of San Francisco, the
Livermore Valley enjoys coastal valley
growing conditions similar to Napa. These
factors, which include gravelly soils and
sloped vineyard sites combined with warm
days and cool nights, favor quality Cabernet
Sauvignon production.
To the north of the Bay Area, Lake County,
especially the Red Hills District, and El
Dorado County in the Sierra Foothills boast
high-elevation vineyards on volcanic soils.
This means low yields of Cabernet grapes,
for firm tannins and great fruit concentration
in the resulting wines. —Jim Gordon
94 Obsidian Ridge 2017 Half Mile Cab-

ernet Sauvignon (Red Hills); $65,
Editors’ Choice.
93 Shannon Ridge 2016 Ovis Cabernet

Sauvignon (High Valley); $60.
92 Michael David 2017 Earthquake

Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi); $26,
Editors’ Choice.
90 Josh Cellars 2017 Reserve Cabernet

Sauvignon (Lodi); $22, Editors’ Choice.
Central Coast
From the 1960s into the ’90s, the Central Coast’s reputation for Cabernet Sauvignon was
tenuous, as cooler regions typically produced reedy, herbal wines. Santa Cruz Mountains power-
houses like Ridge Vineyards and Mount Eden Vineyards never wavered from their classic, savory
styles, but it was the rise of Paso Robles in the early 2000s that put Cab back on the region’s map.
With hot summer days, Paso Robles puts out lush Cabernet bottlings of concentrated fruit
97 Crown Point 2016
Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon (Happy Canyon of
95 Daou 2017 Soul of
a Lion Cabernet
Sauvignon (Adelaida
characteristics and velvety tannins. They offer a familiar profile that many have come to expect Santa Barbara); $150 District); $125
from a California Cabernet Sauvignon.
Meanwhile, as viticulture knowledge grew in Santa Barbara County, a wave of plantings took
root in the Happy Canyon AVA of the eastern Santa Ynez Valley. Those Cabs combine suave fruit
97 J. Lohr 2016 Sig-
nature Cabernet
Sauvignon (Paso Robles);
93 Vina Robles 2017
Estate Cabernet
Sauvignon (Paso Robles);
with elegant dried herb and turned earth tones. —Matt Kettmann $100, Cellar Selection. $26, Editors’ Choice.
WINEMAG.COM | 41
Bordeaux
Cabernet Sauvignon is the cornerstone of many of the finest red Bordeaux. It’s the building block for
the wines of the Médoc, including Appellation d’Origine Protegées (AOPs) like Pauillac, Saint-Julien,
Margaux, Saint-Estèphe and Pessac-Léognan. In some stellar years, it can make up more than 90% of
a wine, which leaves only a small corner for Merlot, Petit Verdot or Cabernet Franc, the other primary
permitted components in a Bordeaux red blend.
These wines are distinctive, with a dominant fruit flavor of black currant, and bold tannins and a
firm structure that give shape and longevity. Those tannins never totally disappear. They keep some
dryness at the core of the wines, but melded with fruit and acidity, bringing elegance and harmony that 97 Château Lafite
Rothschild 2017
Pauillac; $585, Cellar 94 Château Fonba-
det 2016 Pauil-
can be heart-stopping.
Selection. Taub Family lac; $37, Editors’ Choice.
The secret behind the success of these Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines is the gravel. The wide
Selections.
Garonne River and the Gironde estuary that flow from the city of Bordeaux to the ocean have deposited
mounds of gravel on the flat left bank in varying depths. Cabernet Sauvignon thrives where these
97 Château Smith
Haut Lafitte
93 Château Car-
bonnieux 2017
Pessac-Léognan; $45,
deposits are deepest, benefitting from the gravel’s good drainage and retained heat from the summer.
2016 Pessac-Léognan; Cellar Selection.
With climate change, Cabernet Sauvignon is gaining richness and the ability to ripen easily without $130, Cellar Selection.
becoming too heavy. That’s why the variety is now successfully cultivated in areas of Bordeaux where it
never matured before. The Côtes de Bordeaux, Entre-deux-Mers and regions around Saint-Émilion have
96 Château Léo-
ville Barton
91 Château
du Retout
2017 Cru Bourgeois
increased Cabernet Sauvignon plantings, which have added structure to their fleshy, higher-alcohol, 2017 Saint-Julien; $75, (Haut-Médoc); $25.
Merlot-dominated bottlings. —Roger Voss Cellar Selection. Saranty Imports.

Washington State
Cabernet Sauvignon is far and away
Washington’s most planted and produced
variety, but only within the last five short
years has it moved from third in state
production to its present dominance. Not
long ago, the grape’s prospects in the state
were uncertain.
In the 1970s, some thought the state
was too cool for the variety, while others
believed its growing season too short.
However, pioneers showed that conditions
could be just right.
Improved site selection and vineyard
management, with a helping hand from
global warming, have since allowed
Washington’s winemakers to craft world-
class Cabs in a range of styles.
Due to the warm summer days in the
desert-dry Columbia Valley, the state’s
largest growing region, Washington
Cabernets are known for ripe, plush fruit
flavors. But these wines often benefit from
other climatic factors, too. They tend to
have a good measure of natural acidity,
locked in by the area’s cool nights, and
their tannins possess a bit more firmness
than many warm-climate regions, thanks
to the area’s windy and somewhat shorter
growing season.
Red Mountain, Horse Heaven
Hills and Walla Walla Valley are
Washington’s other Cabernet centers. The
state’s expressions still fly largely below the
radar, so these wines provide exceptional
value. —Sean P. Sullivan
94 Betz Family 2017

Père de Famille
Cabernet Sauvignon 92 L’Ecole No. 41 2017
Cabernet Sauvi-
(Columba Valley); $78, gnon (Walla Walla Valley);
Cellar Selection. $40, Cellar Selection.
94 Passing Time 2017

Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon (Horse Heaven Hills);
91 Three Rivers 2018
Cabernet Sauvignon
(Columbia Valley); $16,
$85, Cellar Selection. Editors’ Choice.
92 Fall Line 2017 Verti-

cal Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon (Yakima Valley); $38,
90 Waterbrook 2018
Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon (Columbia Valley);
Editors’ Choice. $13, Best Buy.
WINEMAG.COM | 43
Australia
After Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon is
Australia’s most-planted red variety. The
country is home to what many believe to be
the oldest-producing Cabernet Sauvignon
vines on earth, planted in 1886 in the
Barossa Valley.
While South Australia regions like
Barossa, Langhorne Creek and McLaren
Vale produce Cab, three regions have
emerged as epicenters. Each are blessed
with dry, moderate, maritime climates
where the sponge-like Cabernet soaks up
the unique terroirs.
In the west, a stone’s throw from the
Indian Ocean, Margaret River produces
Cabernet often likened to Bordeaux, thanks
to its fine tannin structure, complexity and
ability for lengthy aging. But regional char-
acters like eucalyptus, graphite, currants and
briny sea spray are unmistakably its own.
On the edge of South Australia’s
southeast border, Coonawarra’s relation-
ship with Cabernet stretches back 130
years. This cigar-shaped region’s unique,
terra rossa soils produce rich Cabernet, with
structured tannins enveloped in fleshy dark
fruit and minty herbs.
Cabernet is at its freshest in the cool-
climate Yarra Valley appellation of Victoria,
located east of Melbourne. Red fruit, florals
and spice mingle with powdery tannins and
medium body.
Like elsewhere, Aussie Cab finds happy
companions in other Bordeaux varieties like
Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot, as well as
Shiraz. —Christina Pickard
95 Leeuwin Estate 2014

Art Series Cabernet
Sauvignon (Margaret River);
$60, Editors’ Choice. Old
Bridge Cellars.
92 Forest Hill
2017 Highbury Fields
Cabernet Sauvignon (Great
Southern); $20. Little
93 Wirra Wirra 2016
Dead Ringer
Peacock Imports.
Cabernet Sauvignon
(McLaren Vale); $70. Nego-
ciants–Winebow.
92 Penley Estate 2018
Phoenix Cabernet
Sauvignon (Coonawarra);
$20. Old Bridge Cellars.
92 Cape Mentelle 2015
Cabernet Sauvignon
(Margaret River); $72, 90 Château Tanunda
2017 Grand Barossa
Cellar Selection. Moët Hen- Cabernet Sauvignon (Baros-
nessy USA. sa); $23. AUSA Pacific.

PODCAST Every bottle tells
a unique story.
Listen as Wine Enthusiast editors take you on a tantalizing trip
into the world of wine, beer and spirits. Drink up the latest
trends, news and information, plus meet the passionate people
behind your favorite pours.
Find us on winemag.com/podcast or
Argentina 90 Domaine
Bousquet
Cabernet Sauvignon is Argentina’s “other” big red, a reliable supporting actor worthy of its time in the
spotlight. It works best alongside Malbec, the country’s heartthrob starring wine , but there are times
when it deserves to be appreciated as a bold red wine capable of enhancing a juicy steak, something
93 Pascual Toso
2017 Alta
Barrancas Vineyards
2018 Cameleon Made
with Organic Grapes
Cabernet Sauvignon
Argentines know a thing or two about. Cabernet Sauvignon (Tupungato); $13, Best
That Cabernet Sauvignon performs well in the New World’s hotbed of Malbec is not a shock. Both (Maipú); $50. Quint- Buy. WISD LLC.
essential Wines.
grapes are members of the “Bordeaux Club,” approved for use there along with Merlot, Cabernet Franc
and Petit Verdot. Both were also brought to Argentina from France around the mid-19th century. And
92 Finca La Anita
2017 Cabernet
90 Las Vertien-
tes 2017 Reser-
va Cabernet Sauvignon
both have adapted well to the country’s sunny, dry and mountainous terroirs.
Sauvignon (Agrelo); (Mendoza); $40. Vino
Among premium red grapes, Cabernet Sauvignon is the third-most planted variety in Argentina,
$50. Tri-Vin Imports. del Sol.
behind Malbec and the less-regarded Bonarda. Within Argentina, Cabernet excels in regions that have
a mix of high altitude and warm days coupled by cool nights that can help preserve natural acidity, a
vital ingredient in any balanced wine.
92 Viña Cobos
2017 Bra-
mare Cabernet
89 El Esteco 2017
Don David
Reserve Cabernet Sauvi-
Known to offer just those ideal conditions, Mendoza is the source of the country’s best Cabernet
Sauvignon (Luján gnon (Calchaquí Valley);
Sauvignon. Northerly Salta, southerly Patagonia and interior regions like San Juan and La Rioja also de Cuyo); $42. Paul $15. Frederick Wild-
produce Cabernet Sauvignon. —Michael Schachner Hobbs Selections. man & Sons.

South Africa
South Africa has a long history with
Cabernet Sauvignon both as a varietal
wine and in blends. The most widely
planted red-wine grape in the country, it
has provided many highly rated examples
throughout the last few decades. Yet, South
African Cabs have largely failed to be identi-
fied as a consistent exemplar on the inter-
national wine stage. That oversight is ripe
for change.
Most of the variety’s plantings lie
within the country’s largest Wine of Origin
(WO) area, the Stellenbosch district of the
Coastal Region, with more than 7,300 acres
under vine. It’s here that the cultivar shines,
thanks to the appellation’s mountainous
topography and proximity to the ocean.
Along with the region’s warm climate
and cooling, southeasterly winds, these
factors yield the definitive South African
Cab: ripe and fruity, not overly jammy, with
ample acidity and moderate alcohol. New
World fruit meets Old World structure.
Beyond Stellenbosch, superb Cabernet
Sauvignon can be found in the Paarl and
Robertson regions. Paarl, Stellenbosch’s
northern neighbor on the other side of the
Simonsberg mountain, generally offers
concentrated, dark-fruited pours with
structured tannins and medium-term aging
potential. To the east, vines in Robertson
tend to produce rich, full-bodied and
velvety Cabernets with ripe cassis, plum and
mulberry characteristics. —Lauren Buzzeo
94 Reyneke 2015

Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon (Stellenbosch); $136.
Vineyard Brands.
91 Botanica 2017 Big
Flower Cabernet
93 Boekenhoutsk-
loof 2016 Cabernet
Sauvignon (Stellenbosch);
Sauvignon (Stellenbosch);
$20, Editors’ Choice. Pascal/
Schildt Selections.
$69. Vineyard Brands.
93 Keermont 2015
Cabernet Sauvignon
91 Noble Hill 2015
Cabernet Sauvignon
(Simonsberg-Paarl); $22, 90 Glenelly 2016 Glass
Collection Cabernet
(Stellenbosch); $42. Ky- Editors’ Choice. Canopy Sauvignon (Stellenbosch);
sela Père et Fils. Wine Selections. $18. Cape Classics.

R E V E L AT I O N
T H E WO R L D ' S F I N EST W I N E C E L L A R E XC LUS I V E LY AT W I N E E N T H US I AST
R E V E L AT I O N D O U B L E L
A SK OUR E XPERTS WHICH

EURO C AVE IS RIGH T F OR YOU
800.356.8466
SUSTAINA
Learn about winemakers around the country who use organic and
eco-friendly farming methods and more to keep the planet healthy.
BY KERIN O’KEEFE
O
rganic wine is booming in Italy. In fact, the country is the world leader in terms of the percentage of surface area dedi-
cated to organic wine grapes.
According to Nomisma Wine Monitor, based on data supplied by industry sources (Sinab, Eurostat and Fibl) as of 2018,
16.6% of Italy’s vineyards were organically cultivated, which accounted for 26% of the world’s organically farmed vine-
yards. From 2013–2018, the country’s organic vineyard area increased 57%, according to the report.

ABLE ITALY
Barone Pizzini
Franciacorta
Franciacorta, in Italy’s Lombardy region, is noted for ageworthy, structured metodo classico sparklers made
predominantly from Chardonnay and Pinot Nero. Barone Pizzini, whose vibrant, savory wines boast a classic
combination of structure and elegance, was the first estate here to switch to organic viticulture in 1998.
In the mid-1990s, Silvano Brescianini, co-owner and managing director of Barone Pizzini, made the decision
COURTESY OF BARONE PIZZINI
after he attended a seminar by a company seling agricultural products to combat fungal diseases.
“I was a restaurateur before managing the winery and wanted to learn everything I could about vine diseases
and how to fight them,” he says. “I was horrified when a company representative pointed out that the product
‘could be dangerous,’ as it was a known carcinogen.” Immediately, Brescianini began to phase out harsh chemicals.
Now, almost 70% of the denomination’s firms are certified organic or in the conversion process.
Barone Pizzini Cà del Bosco also produces excellent organic wines in Franciacorta.
WINEMAG.COM | 51
Organic Lowdown
To receive Europe’s green organic wine logo,
certified wineries must abide by a series of
regulations that include a ban on synthetic
chemicals in the vineyards and genetically
modified organisms (GMOs). Instead of herbi-
cides, producers let grass grow between rows
or mechanically turn the soil. They also use
a copper-sulfur mix to fight fungal diseases.
Though copper, a heavy metal that can
harm the environment, has come under fire,
some say such criticism is unfair when it
comes to organic farming.
“The rules governing organic viticul-
ture stipulate lower amounts of copper than Enzo Brezza Paolo Cotroneo
allowed in conventional viticulture, and most

nonorganic producers use more copper than
we do,” says Silvano Brescianini of Francia-
corta estate Barone Pizzini. “And currently, Brezza Fattoria La Rivolta
there isn’t an efficient organic alternative.” Barolo Campania
A dispute between the United States and
European Union over sulfites means organic Situated in the village of Barolo, Brezza Located in Torrecuso, in Campan-
wines imported here won’t have the organic makes classic wines from native grapes ia’s Benevento province, Fattoria La
European seal. In the U.S., only wines with Nebbiolo, Barbera and Dolcetto. Founded Rivolta makes stunning, savory wines
less than 10 parts per million (ppm) of in 1885, Brezza is one of the village’s with native grapes. The farm’s hilly
sulfites that develop naturally during fermen- oldest firms. Enzo Brezza and his cousin, vineyards boast a winning combina-
tation can be called organic. European stan- Giacomo, are the fourth generation to tion of limestone and clay that lends
dards allow up to 100 ppm for reds and 150 run the family firm. structure, while the high altitudes keep
ppm for whites added as a preservative. Brezza owns property in some of the grapes fresh.
As a result, most organic European Union village’s most lauded vineyard sites, Its vibrant, savory whites, made
producers write “made with organic grapes” including the historical heart of Cannubi, with Greco, Falanghina, Coda di Volpe
on the back label. Sarmassa and Castellero, turning out and Fiano, come from the Sannio
textbook Barolos that boast body and denomination’s Taburno subzone, as
Going Sustainable earthy elegance. does the firm’s red made with Pied-
A growing number of Italian wineries The firm has shunned chemical irosso. The estate’s structured, flagship
claim to employ sustainable practices that fertilizers, pesticides, fungicides and red hails from Aglianico del Taburno,
safeguard the environment, lower their herbicides for years. Instead, it allows essentially the same area, but a sepa-
carbon and water footprints, and create good grass to grow between rows and turns rate denomination.
FAR LEFT: COURTESY OF BREZZA, LEFT: COURTESY OF FATTORIA LA RIVOLTA

social and corporate practices. However, the soil beneath the plants. Enzo also Fattoria La Rivolta was part of
there are no international guidelines that switched from tractors to four-wheeled larger holdings owned by the Cotroneo
define and regulate sustainability protocols quads, which are gentler on the Langhe’s family since the beginning of the 19th
in the wine business. erosion-prone soil. century. Paolo Cotroneo, joined by his
“Equalitas is working tirelessly with inter- The vineyard was converted to sister, Gabriella, and cousin, Giancarlo,
national institutions to create standards to organic farming in 2010, and it became launched this family-run firm in 1997,
officially define and regulate sustainability in certified in 2015. Enzo says he switched and they switched over immediately
the industry,” says Michele Minelli, co-owner to organic for the health of both himself to organic farming methods. Starting
of Salcheto in Tuscany. It was among the and his workers. The other goal was “to with the 2001 harvest after the manda-
first nine wineries to be certified sustain- keep the land in excellent health for tory conversion period, all the grapes
able in 2018 by Equalitas, a trade organiza- future generations.” produced on the estate’s nearly 72
tion and certifying entity that has emerged Winner of Wine Enthusiast’s 2017 acres under vine are certified organic.
as a pioneer in the sustainability movement. Wine Star Award for European Winery of In Campania, Cautiero is another
Here are top certified organic and sustain- the Year, Barolo producer Fontanafredda organic estate that produces wine
able estates to seek. has been certified organic since 2018. worth tasting.

Sheep grazing at
Tasca d’Almerita
Tasca d’Almerita
Sicily
The recipient of Wine Enthusiast’s 2019 Wine Star Award for European Winery of the Year, Tasca d’Almerita is owned by
one of the oldest winemaking families in Sicily, as the Tascas acquired their lush Regaleali estate in 1830. Besides its elegant,
terroir-driven wines, the producer helped spearhead the island’s sustainability movement.
Tasca d’Almerita’s debut 1970 vintage of Rosso del Conte, made with Nero d’Avola, Perricone and other native red grapes,
was the first single-vineyard wine in Sicily. It was also one of the first wines destined for lengthy aging.
COURTESY OF TASCA D’ALMERITA
In the 2000s, the firm invested in wineries across varying areas of Sicily, like Sallier de La Tour and Tascante on Mount
Etna, and Capofaro on Salina. It also vinifies Grillo grapes grown on the island of Mozia.
Today, Alberto Tasca is the company’s CEO, and his dedication to sustainability led to the creation of SOStain, an asso-
ciation of like-minded Sicilian producers. Launched in 2010, its certified members must meet 10 strict requirements that
mandate that the impact of treatments on the environment, farmers and consumers are equal to or lower than equivalent
practices used in organic farming.
Fellow SOStain member Planeta also makes excellent wines with sustainable methods.
WINEMAG.COM | 53
Maso Martis
Maso Martis
Trento
Founded in 1990 by husband-and-wife team Antonio and Roberta Stelzer, Maso Martis makes radiant, pristine bottle-fermented
metodo classico wines from Chardonnay and Pinot Nero. Located in Martignano, which sits at the foothill of Mount Calisio
ALICE RUSSOLO/MASO MARTIS
above the city of Trento in northern Italy, the winery bottles mineral-driven, elegant wines under the Trento DOC collective
brand, like its vibrant, chiseled Dosaggio Zero Riserva.
Maso Martis’s high-altitude vineyards, 1,476 feet above sea level, impart finesse and freshness, while the marked day-night
temperature changes encourage grapes to develop intense aromas and flavors. Mountain breezes also help to keep grapes healthy.
Organic farming was a no-brainer for Maso Martis, both to protect the environment and safeguard the health of the grapes.
The firm became certified organic in 2013, and it also buys grapes exclusively from other small, organic farmers.
For more organic sparkling wine from Trento, look to historic producer Ferrari.

Marangona
Lugana
The small Lugana denomination, on the shores of Lake
Garda, turns out savory, structured whites made with native Organic
grape Turbiana. The area spans five towns across the Veneto farming is a
and Lombardy regions: Peschiera del Garda in Veneto, and
Desenzano, Sirmione, Pozzolengo and Lonato in Lombardy.
challenge due
Lake Garda creates an unusually mild microclimate to [Lugana’s]
for northern Italy, but organic farming is a challenge combination
due to its combination of clay soils and humidity. Of the of clay
denomination’s 116 wineries, only eight are certified organic. soils and
One of them is Marangona. humidity. Of
“Turbiana has compact bunches and is susceptible to
diseases like downy mildew and botrytis, so organic grape
the denomi-
growing isn’t easy, but it is possible,” says Alessandro Cutolo, nation’s 116
Marangona’s owner and winemaker. He began to experiment wineries, only
with organic methods in 2012 and was encouraged when grape eight are Giovanni Manetti
quality improved. The firm, which has many vines more than certified
35 years old, became certified in 2017. Marangona’s range of organic.
delicious Luganas boast elegance, purity and depth. Fontodi
Continue your exploration of Lugana’s organic wines with Chianti Classico
a bottle from Perla del Garda.
One of Chianti Classico’s most celebrated
estates, Fontodi is located in the Conca d’Oro
valley just south of Panzano, in the heart of
the denomination. There, intense sunlight,
high altitudes and the unique combination
of limestone soils (alberese) and flaky schist
(galestro) provide ideal growing conditions
for temperamental Sangiovese.
Run by Giovanni Manetti, whose family
purchased the property in 1968, the firm
makes full-bodied reds that boast struc-
ture, finesse and longevity. Prime exam-
ples are its Chianti Classico Vigna del Sorbo
Gran Selezione and Flaccianello della Pieve,
a Colli della Toscana Centrale bottling.
The family has two main businesses,
RIGHT: COURTESY OF MARANGONA, FAR RIGHT: COURTESY OF FONTODI
terracotta production and winemaking,

which collide in Fontodi’s balsamic,
mineral-driven red, Dino, that’s vinified in
clay amphora.
Manetti, a believer in the greatness of
Sangiovese and the Panzano growing zone,
began to farm organically in 1990.
“Back then, organic farming was consid-
ered a hippie trend, so for years I didn’t
bother getting certified,” says Manetti, who
obtained organic certification in 2008.
Valiano is another producer that’s
making noteworthy organic wines in
Grapes in amphora
Chianti Classico.
at Marangona
WINEMAG.COM | 55
Col d’Orcia
Brunello di Montalcino
The third-largest Brunello house in acres under
vine, Col d’Orcia is one of Montalcino’s storied
producers and can trace its roots back to the
early 20th century.
It’s situated below the hamlet of Sant’Angelo
in Colle and used to be part of a single estate,
Fattoria di Sant’Angelo. In 1958, the property
was divided into two estates: Col d’Orcia and
Il Poggione. Fifteen years later, Count Alberto
Marone Cinzano purchased Col d’Orcia.
Run today by Count Francesco Marone
Cinzano, Col d’Orcia is one of Montalcino’s most
innovative firms. It pioneered research into local
grape Sangiovese and was among the first to
understand the important role of the vineyards,
demonstrated by its compelling, single-vine-
yard bottling Poggio al Vento. Starting with the Sulfur treatment
1982 vintage, the label is only made in excep- in accordance
with organic
tional vintages. principles at
Now the largest organic wine-producing Sergio Mottura
farm in Tuscany, Col d’Orcia was converted to
organic agriculture methods in 2010. It became
certified in 2013. Sergio Mottura
Le Chiuse is another organic producer Lazio
making stellar Brunello di Montalcino.
Mottura Sergio Mottura’s 321-acre estate lies in Civitella d’Agliano,
took over the in Lazio’s Viterbo province. On the border with Umbria and
family farm located in the Orvieto denomination, the namesake wine-
Sheep in the
maker turns out full-bodied whites made with the area’s
vineyards at in 1963, and
Col d’Orcia native grapes, namely Grechetto, but also Procanico, Verdello
he focused and Rupeccio. It also crafts bottlings made with international
FAR LEFT: COURTESY OF COL D’ORCIA, LEFT: COURTESY OF SERGIO MOTTURA

immediately grapes. Grown in volcanic soils, the firm’s savory, mineral-
on the area’s driven wines boast finesse and complexity.
traditional One of the area’s quality pioneers, Mottura helped put dry
grapes. In the Orvieto on the map. His structured, savory, single-vineyard
100% Grechetto Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) wines, in
early 1990s,
particular his Latour a Civitella fermented in oak, have proven
he switched the impressive potential of this ancient variety.
to organic At 21, Mottura took over the family farm in 1963, and he
viticulture. focused immediately on the area’s traditional grapes. In the
early 1990s, he switched to organic viticulture, and the estate
became certified organic in 1995. “After years of organic
farming, the porcupines returned and are now the symbol of
our estate,” says his son, Sebastiano.”
To explore more of the organic wines being produced in
Lazio, start with Barberani.

Beekeeping
at Salcheto
Salcheto
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Located in Montepulciano in the Siena province, Salcheto was a pioneer in Sangiovese back when other estates planted inter-
national grapes to blend into Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. It has been a trailblazer in organic, sustainable and biodynamic
farming and winemaking.
Led by its founder and winemaker, Michele Manelli, the winery has long banned harsh chemicals in the vineyards and became
certified organic in 2005. It also follows the principles of biodynamic viticulture.
Salcheto’s wines ferment with native yeasts, and Manelli never adds sulfites during fermentation. The firm’s young and fruity
Obvius line, which meets U.S. organic requirements, doesn’t have any added sulfites at all.
COURTESY OF SALCHETO
For Salcheto’s elegantly structured, ageworthy Vino Nobiles, Manelli adds minimal sulfites after fermentation. He stays below
the standards for organic viticulture while ensuring the wines avoid oxidized notes and are suitable for long aging.
Since becoming organic, Salcheto has lowered its carbon and water footprints drastically, while maintaining biodiverse vine-
yards. It’s now also certified sustainable by Equalitas.
Biodynamic winery Avignonesi also makes Vino Nobile di Montepulciano that’s worth your attention.
WINEMAG.COM | 57
It’s
no wonder that New Zealand excels when it comes to white wine.
The narrow islands’ remote location at the southwest edge of the
Pacific Ocean means that none of its wine regions is farther than a
few hours from the coast.
Combine the intense maritime influence with long hours of sunshine, crisp nights
and some of the most southerly latitudes in the wine world, and you have a landscape
perfectly suited to craft white wines of delicacy, finesse and freshness.
While New Zealand’s calling card is Sauvignon Blanc, the ruggedly beautiful nation
produces whites from a plethora of other varieties. Read on to dive in.

WINEMAG.COM | 59
No variety is as synonymous with New
Zealand than Sauvignon Blanc. In 2018, the
grape accounted for a whopping 73% of the country’s wine
production, and 86% of its total exports.
There’s an unmistakable, bombastic style produced here.
It offers heady aromas of passionfruit, lime, pineapple, bell though, viticulture and winemaking choices have the final say.
pepper, tomato leaf and grass, along with rapier-like acidity. Pick and press Sauvignon Blanc early from high-yielding
Though it’s made virtually everywhere in New Zealand, the vines with large leaf cover, without skins or stems, lees or oak
vast majority of plantings are in Marlborough, at the northeast influence, and you get the zingy, aromatic style that put New
edge of the South Island. They’re spread across two subre- Zealand on the map.
gions: the Wairau and the Awatere Valleys. But if you harvest it later from vines with low yields and a
The Awatere, the more sea swept of the two, can produce small canopy, ferment it in whole bunches with native yeast,
a more herbaceous and less overtly fruity Sauvignon than the in barrel and/or on its lees, a whole different beast emerges.
Wairau. But Marlborough’s overarching fruit-forward “Savvie B” “Let’s face it, the majority of conventional [New Zealand]
style prevails just as often here. Sauvignon is heavily based on a narrow, rather shouty aromatic
Across New Zealand, regional differences are subtle but spectrum,” says Sam Weaver, winemaker for his own label,
apparent: In Wairarapa, on the south end of the North Island, for Churton, and for North Canterbury’s Mt. Beautiful winery.
example, more green vegetal characters are apparent, while in “Wines with good fruit weight, on the other hand, have intensity,
warmer Hawke’s Bay, the wines tend toward tropical. Ultimately, balance and, most importantly, length of flavor.”

Although it accounts for just 7% of the Chardonnay finds a happy home across the country, particularly
country’s total wine production, serious at altitude and in the coastal areas of Hawke’s Bay in the North
Chardonnay producers here are passionate about this versatile Island, which produces about a third of the nation’s bottlings. The
variety. As a result, bottlings are often of very high quality. style here, depending on site, ranges from fresh and fruity to rich
Three decades ago, when it was the country’s most planted wine and concentrated.
grape, Chardonnay was made in a more overtly fruity and oaky style. Elevated acidity and a leaner, more citrus-driven profile are
Today, it’s fine, restrained and, in many cases, highly ageworthy. found in examples from regions at the bottom of the North Island,
“Chardonnay in New Zealand has seen a steady style like Wairarapa/Martinborough, and in South Island regions like
evolution over several decades, but converging upon one main Marlborough, Nelson, North Canterbury and Central Otago, where
type, drawing most of its inspiration from the white wines of overall temps are cooler.
Burgundy,” says Michael Brajkovich, MW, winemaker at the Neudorf, in Nelson, Felton Road in Central Otago, as well as
historic Kumeu River Wines, west of Auckland, and one of New Pyramid Valley and Bell Hill, in the limestone-strewn Waikari
Zealand’s pioneers of both Chardonnay and the shift toward a subregion of North Canterbury, have worked wonders with the
more Burgundian style. world’s most well-known white variety. Put them on your radar.
WINEMAG.COM | 61
Pinot Gris has only been a part of the New Swiss-born winemaker Hans Herzog crafts one of the
Zealand wine landscape since the 1990s, country’s most interesting Pinot Gris at his winery, Hans Family
yet it’s one of the few white varieties other than Sauvignon Estate, in Marlborough. It’s a pulsing wine that’s rich and fruity,
Blanc to steadily increase in plantings and production. The yet also dry, fresh and varietally expressive. He achieves this
third-most planted variety in the nation, it makes up 6% of New through the use of wild yeast and long contact with both skin
Zealand’s total wine production. and lees.
Most Pinot Gris clones here originated in Germany, “This requires perfectly ripe, handpicked, immaculate fruit
Switzerland and South Africa, and the wine style is closer to from low yields so no bad flavors are extracted during the long,
Alsace than Italy, which is why so many producers call it “Gris,” cold soak,” says Herzog. “It’s a style that comes with high cost
not “Grigio.” without a quick return on investment but suits our artisan wine-
New Zealand Pinot Gris is richer both in aromatics and growing: small volumes of handcrafted wines.”
texture than the lighter, more neutral Pinot Grigio style. It can Pinot Gris is a young variety in New Zealand in need of
be mouthfilling and off-dry, with bold baked pear, apple, honey dedicated, quality-focused producers like Herzog. When it
and spice characteristics. This richer, riper style is prevalent in receives love and a gentle touch, it’s well worth seeking out.
warmer North Island regions like Gisborne.
In the South Island, where the majority of Pinot Gris is
grown, the wines walk a fresher, more delicate line. They’re
less honeyed and unctuous, with more fresh fruit. But there are
plenty of exceptions.

The diversity of New Zealand’s wine-
growing regions means that a wide range of grape
varieties can grow, like Viognier, Grüner Veltliner and Albariño.
The long, cool growing season of the South Island is suited to
aromatic varieties, while the North can ripen fleshier, warmer producers like James Millton, whose Gisborne-based winery on
climate whites. the North Island was also at the forefront of biodynamics in the
One white that shows promise is Riesling. Producers that Pacific region.
grow this Germanic variety make everything from delicate, Millton’s Chenin grows on silt loam with clay undersoil, which
bone-dry and citrus-driven wines to lusciously sweet and gives the fragrant, complex wines what he describes as a “lanolin
complex bottlings. Parts of North Canterbury, an exciting region texture and clipped acid finish.”
to watch for all manner of varieties, seems particularly suited to In Hawke’s Bay, Millton says, “some interesting vineyards
it, and producers like Pegasus Bay are renowned. are planted [in] gravel, like at Esk Valley. And farther south,
The arid Central Otago landscape gives Canterbury a run for there are plantings on limestone, such as Black Estate [in North
its money with pristine, beautifully aromatic Riesling. Rippon Canterbury] and Amisfield [in Central Otago].
winery, on the breathtaking shores of Lake Wanaka, makes a wild “By and by, Chenin Blanc is taking up more of our vineyard
and complex version. lands, such is the pleasure it delivers,” he says. “The other white
Another resurgent variety is Chenin Blanc, the versatile varieties I am embracing, in this lifetime at least, are Savagnin,
grape with a fiercely loyal following. Chenin’s ability to produce Petit Manseng and, with the interest in amphora, we have also
terroir-driven varietal wines has made it a top choice for artisanal planted Mtsvane. One day, I will just keep it simple.”
WINEMAG.COM | 63
The Maipo Valley
is known for world-class
Cabernet Sauvignon,
and other Chilean regions
also excel at making the
wine. Here’s a look at
the country’s liquid gold,
including recent vintages
and what to buy now.
CHILE IS
CABERNET
COUNTRY
MATT WILSON

E
ver since the first Cabernet Sauvignon vines were trans-
ported to Chile from Bordeaux during the 19th century,
this sun-loving grape has been the driving force behind
the country’s wine industry.
BY Today, roughly one of every three bottles of wine
MICHAEL produced in Chile is varietal Cabernet Sauvignon. And while much of
SCHACHNER it is pedestrian and priced to sell, the country ranks among the global
kings of Cabernet at the value-rich middle tier as well as the ultrapre-
mium level. Ask winemakers what they believe are the world’s best
regions for growing potentially great Cab, and you’re likely to hear
Harvest at Viña Chocalan three names: Bordeaux, Napa Valley and Chile’s Maipo Valley.
WINEMAG.COM | 65
Clockwise from
left: Rafael
Urrejola,
Undurraga;
Santa Rita;
Marcelo Papa,
Concha y Toro
Maipo, you say? Let us tell you more. fruit-forward Cabernet from Napa. The current vintage for high-end
About halfway between the Andes Mountains and the Pacific Ocean, Chilean Cabernet is 2017, but wines from 2018, especially those priced
surrounding the capital city of Santiago, the Maipo Valley is Chile’s from $15 to about $30, are now coming into the market.
original commercial wine region. It’s blessed with warm days, cool The 2017 vintage was marked by intense summer heat and a very
nights, a prevailing dry climate, high elevations and alluvial soils that early harvest. But for some winemakers, it proved that established
have been fed for millennia by the Maipo River. terroirs and vines of a certain age (30 years or older) impact the wines
Other regions in Chile, like the Aconcagua Valley to the north of even more than weather.
Santiago and the Cachapoal, Colchagua and Curicó valleys to the south, “Vintages like 2017, ones that you know are coming in warm, force
LEFT: MATT WILSON (2); ABOVE: SHUTTERSTOCK

also boast quality Cabs. But no place in this sliver of a country produces you to pay attention,” says Rafael Urrejola, winemaker for Undurraga.
Cabernet like Maipo, just like no place in California does Cabernet Its 2017 T.H. Cabernet, from an Alto Maipo vineyard planted three
Sauvignon like Napa, and no place in Europe makes it like Bordeaux’s decades ago at about 2,200 feet, is tightly wound and a prime candi-
Left Bank. date for the cellar.
“If you understand the ripening process and pick at the right time,
Cabernet Today the results should still be good,” he says. “But if you are late in this
The signature Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon is intense and generous, type of year, you will end up with overripe, cooked and flat wines. The
with firm yet pliable tannins, herbal overtones and loads of dark-fruit harvest window gets really narrow. For T.H. 2017, we picked by the
aromas and flavors. These wines are plusher than those from cooler- second week of March, very early compared to other years.”
climate Bordeaux, but less opulent and more spice-based than the Only 7.6 inches of rain fell from May 2016 through April 2017,

according to the Servicio Agrícola y Ganadero, a govern- normal harvest. This always helps Cabernet Sauvi-
ment agency. The prior year saw 17.5 inches of El Niño- gnon wines to have good color, freshness of fruit, good
driven rain, much of it in April when Cabernet Sauvi- “The [2018] natural acidity and elegant tannins.”
gnon harvests generally reach their peak. wines are Marcelo Papa, technical director at Concha y Toro,
As for 2018, Chile’s winemakers call it the best called 2018 “fantastic, probably the best year in the last
refined,
year in a decade or more, for all varieties and styles 10. The wines are refined, with great precision of fruit.
of wine. It was normal in terms of daytime and night-
with great They are juicy and display magnificent balance.
time temperatures—meaning excellent for Cabernet— precision of “Something I recall noticing was that the vines
with an average amount of rainfall for the year, about fruit. They looked very comfortable throughout the season, and
13.5 inches. are juicy experience has taught us that a happy vine produces
What made it especially great for Cabernet, and display a happy wine.”
according to Sebastian Ruiz, winemaker with Viña Winemakers noted that 2019 was a good year for
magnificent
Tarapacá in the Isla de Maipo subzone, was that it Cabernet, but one where drought conditions returned.
allowed for a long hang time.
balance.” A mere 6.4 inches of precipitation fell during the May
“The Cabernet grapes were so healthy, with beau- —Marcelo to April measuring period.
tiful berries and bunches,” he says. “The yield was 26% Papa The 2020 vintage was one of the driest years on
higher compared to 2017, but perfect temperatures record with only 3.5 inches of rain, nary a drop during
during the maturation period determined a later than the growing period.
WINEMAG.COM | 67
A Dozen Stellar Chilean Cabernets
Pick up an old favorite, or try something new.
Six Well-Known Names Six Names to Know
95 Viña Don Melchor 2017
Cabernet Sauvignon (Puente 93 Casas del Toqui 2017 Court
Rollan Pater Alto Totihue
Cabernet Sauvignon (Cachapoal Val-
Alto). This benchmark Maipo
Cabernet tastes of coffee, chocolate, ley). This small-production wine
toasty spices and blackberry. A bold (300 cases) is muscular on the nose,
finish guarantees a long life. Drink with dusty berry aromas backed by
through 2040. Fetzer Vineyards. spicy currant and plum flavors. Enjoy
Cellar Selection. through 2025. Via Pacifica Imports.
abv: 14.5% Price: $120 abv: 14% Price: $45
93 Concha y Toro 2017 Terrunyo

Cabernet Sauvignon (Pirque). 92 François Lurton 2016 Hacienda
Araucano Gran Araucano Cab-
ernet Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley).
Spicy blackberry and herbal flavors
are pure Maipo. This shows integrated This rainy-year offering shows com-
oak and freshness on the finish. Enjoy mendable ripeness. Plum, berry and
through 2028. Fetzer Vineyards. oak flavors end with dry spice notes
Editors’ Choice. befitting the vintage. Enjoy through
abv: 14.5% Price: $40 2026. Atlas Imports.
abv: 14.5% Price: $35
93 MontGras 2017 Intriga Cabernet

Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). Full
yet fresh, with tannic grip and purity 91 Maquis 2017 Gran Reserva
Cabernet Sauvignon (Colchagua Clockwise from
throughout. Blackberry, dark cherry, Valley). Oaky aromas and flavors above: Cabernet
oak spice and chocolate flavors finish of black fruits include spice and grapes at
firm. Enjoy through 2030. Guarachi chocolate notes. A tight finish features Concha y Toro;
Wine Partners. Cellar Selection. rubbing tannins. Enjoy through 2023. Undurraga;
Fernando Espina,
abv: 14% Price: $40 Global Vineyard Importers.
Viña Chocalan
abv: 13.5% Price: $20
93 Undurraga 2017 T.H. Cabernet

Sauvignon (Maipo Alto). Pat-
ented Chilean aromas of hard spices,
herbs and briary berry fruits are
91 Siegel 2016 Single Vineyard Los
Lingues Cabernet Sauvignon
(Colchagua Valley). This shows good
backed by herbal berry flavors and a ripeness for the vintage, though it’s
high-energy finish; best through 2029. more racy than dense. Spicy berry and
Undurraga USA. Cellar Selection. plum flavors offer a hint of chocolaty
abv: 13.5% Price: $25 richness. Enjoy through 2024. Kysela
Père et Fils.
92 Santa Rita 2017 Medalla Real

Gold Medal Single Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Val-
abv: 14% Price: $30
ley). This fruit-driven Cab bursts

with plum, berry and chocolaty fla-
91 Viña Chocalan 2018 Gran Reser-
va Origen Cabernet Sauvignon
(Maipo Valley). Spicy berry aromas
vors, while a medium-depth finish is
show traditional side notes of euca-
smooth. Enjoy through 2024. Delicato
lyptus and mint. A juicy palate has
CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE LEFT: SHUTTERSTOCK (2), MATT WILSON

Family Wines. Editors’ Choice.
grip, structure and light tannic bite;
abv: 14% Price: $20
drink through 2022. Chocalan USA.
abv: 14.5% Price: $18
92 Viña Tarapacá 2018 Etiqueta
Negra Gran Reserva Cabernet
Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). Blackberry,
coffee, chocolate and oak flavors hum,
90 Haras de Pirque 2018 Hus-
sonet Gran Reserva Cabernet
Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). Ripe black-
while ripeness of fruit drives a fin-
berry and cassis flavors are lightly
ish with youthful heat. Enjoy through
oaked and full on the finish. Best
2028. MundoVino–Winebow. Cellar
through 2021. Ste. Michelle Wine Es-
Selection.
tates. Best Buy.
abv: 14.5% Price: $35
abv: 13.5% Price: $15

Lorena Mora, who heads the Terrunyo program at small yields tend to result in more concentrated wines.
Concha y Toro along with veteran winemaker Ignacio Fernando Espina, head winemaker at Viña Chocalan
Recabarren, says that until the past year, drought condi- “We can talk in the Maipo Valley, whose 2018 Gran Reserva Origen
tions in Chile have been manageable due to modern about lower Cabernet Sauvignon offers great value, put Chile’s
irrigation. But how long that can continue remains to rainfall like the reduced rainfall into terms we all can understand.
be seen. coronavirus “Today, we can talk about lower rainfall like the
“We are getting to the point where we cannot replace coronavirus pandemic,” he says. “We are dealing with
the lack of rain,” says Mora. “In 2020, many vineyards
pandemic. We a new normal. But extremely low yields are not neces-
had problems irrigating. It is a problem that has been are dealing sarily synonymous with good quality. Rather, it can
intensifying year after year. In Maipo, the situation has with a new translate into drying tannins, overripe fruit, dehydra-
us worried. We irrigated much more this past season, normal.” tion and high alcohol.”
and we will have to adapt to this new reality.” —Fernando Fortunately, the best of Chile’s Cabernet Sauvignons
With droughts come lower yields, something Espina deliver plush tannins, perfectly ripe fruit, juicy acidity
that hurts wineries that produce inexpensive wines and alcohol levels of about 14%. Wines like these are
designed for mass consumption. On the other hand, plentiful and calling your name.
WINEMAG.COM | 69
VODKA
W I T H A
STORY
These four bottles go beyond basic bases for cocktails that will delight.
BY
KARA NEWMAN
PHOTOS BY
TO M A R E N A
ILLUSTRATIONS BY
E N YA TO D D

P
rized for its pristine,
neutral profile, some
might suspect that
vodka has little to say.
That would be a mistake. This
spirit speaks volumes.
It’s also seen plenty of
innovation.
To understand its roots, look
to Russia, the spiritual home of
vodka. Even the word is rooted
in Russian. It’s a diminutive,
affectionate term for “water.”
“Vodkas vary wildly
depending on their base
ingredient and how each
variety is crafted,” writes Darra
Goldstein in Beyond the North
Wind (Ten Speed Press, 2020),
a cookbook about Russia’s
food and culture.
“The spirit can be distilled
from any fermentable
ingredient,” says Goldstein in
the book. Grains like rye, corn
or wheat are common. They
yield brisk, crisp spirits that
have “a bit of an afterbite,”
which enhances pairing with
fried foods or other rich bites
like Russia’s iconic caviar.
Potato is another staple,
providing earthy softness.
It doesn’t stop there. Vodka
has been crafted from fine wine
grapes, all manner of fruits,
vegetables, dairy products.
Even excess baked goods have
been turned into vodka.
What characteristics should
vodka possess? “Good vodka
should have a pleasant aroma,
with no hit of ethanol or oily
finish,” writes Goldstein.
All of the following vodkas
have a story to tell, whether
distilled from unusual raw
ingredients, made in a unique
way or distinctive location.
While cocktail ideas are
suggested for each bottle,
another option is Goldstein’s
preferred way to enjoy Russian
vodka: right from the freezer,
served straight up and icy-cold.
WINEMAG.COM | 71
Sip: A mouthwatering Greek vodka distilled from olives
KÁSTRA ELIÓN
VODKA ($57)
In Western Greece, the town
of Nafpaktos (also known as
Lepanto) is home to picturesque
beaches along the Corinthian
Gulf, a well-preserved Venetian
castle that overlooks the city and
numerous olive groves. Greek
olives and grains are distilled
into this smooth, slightly buttery
vodka. It opens with mild almond
sweetness and winds into faint,
mouthwatering salinity.
Mix: a Dirty Martini variation
DIRTY (SUE)
MARTINI
Courtesy Cari Hah, bar
manager, Big Bar, Los Angeles
Cari Hah is a control freak about

proper dilution in cocktails. “If
too much water is added into
the Martini, it will taste flat and
watery,” she says. “Not enough
water in the Martini, it will be too
strong and flavors of the cocktail
won’t bloom.” Her solution? This
no-ice version. All the compo-
nents must be kept “super cold,”
she says. That means vodka and
glassware in the freezer, vermouth
and olive brine in the refrigerator.
Her brine of choice is from Dirty
Sue olives, hence the name.
2 ounces vodka, chilled

½ ounce dry vermouth,
chilled
½ ounce olive brine,
preferably Dirty Sue
Premium Olive Juice,
chilled
3
/5 ounce ice-cold water (a
bit more than ½ ounce)
Green olive, for garnish
Combine all ingredients in

chilled coupe with no ice. Stir
to combine. Garnish with olive.

Sip: A base of Midwestern sugar beets gives this vodka earthy sweetness
BĒT VODKA ($35)

Pronounced “beet,” this vodka
is made with Minnesota-grown
sugar beets and is distilled just
over the border in Wisconsin.
Expect a slightly sweet aroma
and mild, earthy palate that offers
an unusual grippy, drying quality.
It has a brisk finish that’s slightly
fruity and earthy.
Mix: a citrusy aperitivo
THE CLEAN BREAK

Courtesy Benjamin Schiller,
beverage director, RPM
Restaurants, Chicago
Schiller recommends peeling the

skin off of the citrus before the
fruits are juiced and setting those
strips aside. The peels then are
added along with the other ingre-
dients, and everything’s shaken
together, a technique called the
“Regal Shake.” Essential oils from
the citrus peels provide additional
depth of flavor.
2 ounces vodka
¾ ounce Aperol
¾ ounce simple syrup
¾ ounce fresh lemon or
lime juice, plus peels
of the citrus skin
3 dashes Peychaud’s
bitters
2–3 wheels fresh cucumber
1 strip fresh citrus peel,
for garnish
1 cucumber wheel,
for garnish
In cocktail shaker filled with

ice, combine all ingredients.
Shake well, then strain into
Old Fashioned glass over large
ice cube. Garnish with citrus
peel and/or cucumber wheel.
WINEMAG.COM | 73
Sip: A Cali vodka that
incorporates wine
country grapes and
San Francisco fog
HANGAR 1 FOG
POINT VODKA ($134)
“Inspired by the Bay Area fog,”
according to the producer, this
limited-edition vodka starts with
a Chenin Blanc-Viognier blend
from California’s Pine Ridge
Vineyards. The vodka was distilled
and cut with water sourced from
Hangar 1’s “fog catchers,” which
are sheets of mesh that become Mix: a bubbly, lightly
waterlogged as fog floats through fruity Collins
it. Water droplets fall into a trough,
a sustainable way to collect fresh
water. The vodka is silky and light GRAPE &
as it transforms from distinctly ROSEMARY
fruity to a citrusy, peppery finish. COLLINS
Hangar 1 Straight Vodka ($41), Courtesy Johnny Swet, owner/
distilled from grain and Viognier bartender, Grand Republic
grapes, is also brisk and balanced. Cocktail Club, Brooklyn, NY
Rather than infuse a syrup or

vodka with fruit and herbs, this
twist on the classic Vodka Collins
relies on muddling ingredients to
impart fresh flavors. A vodka with
nuanced fruit notes is a perfect foil
for this tall, refreshing sipper.
3–4 grapes, plus more for

garnish
1 sprig fresh rosemary,
plus more for garnish
2 ounces vodka
¾ ounce lemon juice
½ ounce simple syrup
Club soda, to top
Muddle grapes and rosemary

sprig in bottom of cocktail
shaker. Add vodka, lemon
juice, simple syrup and ice.
Shake well, then fine-strain
into Collins glass over fresh
ice. Top with splash of club
soda. Garnish with grapes and
rosemary sprig.

Sip: A velvety vodka made from the milk of cows Mix: an upscale
that graze the English countryside White Russian
BLACK COW PURE MONEYGUN WHITE

MILK VODKA ($33) RUSSIAN
Created by a Jason Barber, a dairy Courtesy Will Duncan,
farmer in pastoral West Dorset, director of hospitality,
England, this vodka is distilled Moneygun, Chicago
from whey, a byproduct of cheese-
making. (Black Cow also makes A traditional White Russian mixes
Cheddar cheese.) While it doesn’t vodka with coffee liqueur and
taste like milk, the vodka is mildly cream. This version, however,
sweet and has a markedly plush, channels a boozy iced latte, with
rounded texture that’s ideal to mix fresh espresso and simple syrup
into creamy cocktails. frozen into ice cubes. Make extra
cubes to sweeten morning cold
brews and iced teas.
1 Demerara ice cube*

1½ ounces vodka
1 ounce fresh espresso
1 ounce cream
Grated nutmeg, for garnish
3 coffee beans, for garnish
Place Demerara ice cube in

double Old Fashioned glass.
Pour espresso over cube. Stir
to melt cube and chill espres-
so. Add vodka and cream. Do
not stir, which will create
swirl effect. Fill glass with
crushed ice. Grate nutmeg
atop drink. Garnish with cof-
fee beans.
*DEMERARA ICE CUBE:

MAKES 16 1-OUNCE CUBES
In small saucepan, combine

1 cup each Demerara sugar
and water. Stir until sugar
dissolves. Bring to boil, then
lower heat and simmer for 5
minutes. Remove from heat
and cool completely.
Pour into standard ice cube
tray. Freeze until solid.

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Taste of Venice
Create an at-home feast of the city’s famous bar snacks with an abundance of wine.
BY
NILS
BERNSTEIN
PHOTOS BY
PENNY DE LOS
SANTOS
FOOD & PROP STYLING BY
JUDY HAUBERT

The
Grand Canal and Piazza San Marco are
beautiful, but you haven’t really experienced
Venice until you’ve snacked on cicchetti in
the city’s many bàcari, or wine bars. This
all-day finger food, a cousin of Spain’s tapas and Portugal’s petiscos,
is meant to be enjoyed with one or more ombre, or shadows, which
are small pours of wine often served from a tap.
A cicchetti selection almost always includes sandwiches like
triangular tramezzini, open-faced crostini and an assortment of deep-
fried morsels. Practically anything that can be consumed in a bite or
three is fair game, whether stewed, stuffed, sautéed or skewered.
These small bites are called stuzzichini or spunciotti elsewhere in
Italy, but cicchetti and bàcari are synonymous with Venice.
Luckily, these dishes are easy to make at home, too. Stock your
pantry with the best ingredients, learn to make some classic dishes and
invent your own flavor combinations. Pair it all with wines from the Tre
Venezie regions (Veneto, Friuli-Venezia Giulia and Trentino-Alto Adige)
and beyond, and it’s almost like being there.
WINEMAG.COM | 79
Shopping List
To make a beautiful meal, you need the right ingredients. Here’s what to buy.
Charcuterie: salami, sopressata (a k a sopressa), prosciutto cotto,

prosciutto crudo, coppa (a k a capicola), mortadella
Fish: smoked salmon or trout, canned anchovies, tuna, salt
cod, salmon or trout roe
Cheese: mozzarella, mascarpone, ricotta, Asiago, Montasio,
Robiola, Piave, Gorgonzola, Grana Padano
Preserves: olives or tapenade, pickled vegetables, roasted red
peppers, pesto, nonpareil capers, savory jams or relishes
Fresh fruits & onions, greens, zucchini, pumpkin or squash, tomatoes,
vegetables: artichokes, grapes, stone fruit
Other: bread, polenta, eggs, breadcrumbs, extra-virgin olive oil

Tramezzini
These little sandwiches are
the most common cicchetti in
Venice, where the traditional way
to make them is to press down
the edges to form a little dome
shape. They’re limited only by
your creativity. Use soft white
sandwich bread that’s sliced thin
and has the crusts cut off. Spread
with soft cheese or mayonnaise,
depending on the sandwich
filling. Pile on the fillings, and
make the dome, or just compress
the sandwiches gently to help the
• T I P S • bread adhere to the filling.
Canned anchovies are SOME FAVORITE FILLINGS:

terrific on crostini or
draped over hard-boiled • Tuna and artichoke
eggs, but they can be with homemade mayo
intensely salty. For a • Prosciutto cotto,
fresher flavor, rinse the robiola and arugula
anchovies, soak them in
• Smoked salmon,
water or milk for an hour,
ricotta and capers
then pat dry and store
covered in olive oil. • Bresaola, gorgonzola
and braised radicchio
• Egg salad with
For optimal flavor, minced shrimp
take cheeses and
• Prosciutto crudo,
cured meats out of the mascarpone and
refrigerator an hour shaved apple
before assembling and
serving your cicchetti.
To facilitate your
cicchetti experiments,
cook these vegetables
ahead of time to keep in
the fridge: caramelized
onions, braised greens,
sautéed zucchini, roasted
pumpkin or squash.
Look for Italian products

marked Denominazione
di Origine Protetta
(DOP) or Indicazione
Geografica Protetta
(IGP), which are
geographical
indications akin to
wine designations that
ensure regulation and
adherence to standards.
WINEMAG.COM | 81
Gamberi
in Saor
Sarde in saor is a classic dish
made with sardines. Since fresh
ones can be hard to find, make it
with shrimp (gamberi) instead.
Slice 3 white onions into

thin half moons, and sauté in
2 tablespoons olive oil over
medium-low heat until pale
golden, 10–12 minutes. Add ½
cup white wine vinegar and 1
teaspoon sugar, and cook un-
til vinegar is almost absorbed.
Stir in ½ cup raisins and 1/3
cup pine nuts. While onions
cook, pat dry 1 pound medium
shrimp (peeled and deveined),
toss with flour to coat, and pan
fry in olive oil over medium-
high heat until just cooked
through, 1–2 minutes per side.
Cover shrimp with onions.
Cover and refrigerate for at
least 12 hours and up to 2 days.
Serve at room temperature.
Serves 6–8.
Local pairing: Bright, crisp Soave

Classico and sparkling Trento
wines can have herbaceous
characteristics, as well as flavors
of spice, apples and pears that
will complement the sweet
raisins and shrimp.
Or try: A Sauvignon Blanc or dry

cider will also highlight this dish’s
gentle sweetness against its
vinegar pucker.

Baccalà Mantecato
This translates to “creamed cod,” and it’s a surprisingly simple crostini
topping. Just plan two days ahead.
Soak 1½ pounds salt cod in water for 48 hours. Change water every 8
hours. Place in pot, and cover with equal parts milk and water. Boil for
20 minutes, or until fish flakes easily, and drain. When cool enough to
handle, shred into bowl, discarding any skin and bones. Using whisk,
stand mixer with whisk attachment or wooden spoon, beat well while
adding ¾ cup olive oil in thin stream. Season with salt and pepper,
to taste. Add grated garlic, minced parsley, and/or pinch of ground
nutmeg, if desired, to taste. Serves 6–8.
Local pairing: Look to Prosecco for bubbles that will cleanse your palate
between deliciously salty, fishy bites.
Or try: Further channel the seaside feeling with refreshing, light-bodied

wines that have some salinity, like Picpoul de Pinet or Albariño.
WINEMAG.COM | 83
Polpette alla Veneziana
Serve these bite-size meatballs on their own, or with a simple tomato sauce
for dipping.
Using your hands, combine 1 pound ground beef, 4 ounces Italian sau-
sage or mortadella ground in a food processor, 2 egg yolks, 1 minced
clove garlic, 2 ounces fine-grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano, and
2 slices sandwich bread that have been soaked in milk and squeezed
dry. Form meatballs 1 inch in diameter and roll in dried breadcrumbs
or crushed panko breadcrumbs. Deep-fry at 350˚F for 3–5 minutes, or
until cooked through. Serves 8–10.
Local pairing: Juicy, red-berry-laden Valpolicella, with its woody spice

notes, is refreshing enough to wash down these deep-fried snacks.
Or try: It’s hard to beat Cabernet Sauvignon alongside a rich, beefy dish like
this one.

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Crostini di
Polenta
Use polenta instead of bread
as a tasty base for open-faced
sandwiches.
Prepare polenta according to

package directions. Add more
cheese and/or butter, if de-
sired. Pour onto oiled baking
sheet that will fit in refrig-
erator. Use a rubber spatula to
spread polenta into layer that’s
¼- to ½-inch thick. Chill for
at least 1 hour. Cut into desired
shape with knife or biscuit cut-
ter. To serve, fry in hot oil until
golden-brown. Top as desired.
SUGGESTED TOPPINGS:
• Caponata
• Smoked trout and crème
fraîche
• Braised greens and capers
• Crushed chickpeas with
pesto
• Ricotta and roasted tomato
• Caramelized onions and
prosciutto
• Mascarpone and trout
Local pairing: Juicy Schiava, a

light-bodied red from Alto Adige,
is a zesty, fun, food-friendly pour.
Put a light chill on it.
Or try: The red-berry notes

typically found in light-bodied
red wines really complement the
corn flavor of polenta, while their
acidity cuts the richness. Gamay
ticks all the boxes.

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WINEMAG.COM | 89
BUYINGGUIDE
AUSTRIA
It is on the palate that the herbal hit strikes fully.
There is more of that crushed yarrow, boxwood,
white pepper and salty miso. The plate is slender
and taut but packed with flavor. Lovely now, it’s cer-
tain to evolve. Drink by 2030. Deutsch Family Wine
and Spirits. Editors’ Choice. —A.K.
Great promise for the 2019 vintage abv: 13% Price: $18
I
t’s always exciting taste a new vintage and
it’s even more exciting when that new vin-
intensity show across the board, not just in the
higher-tier wines.
93 Markus Huber 2019 Obere Steigen Grüner
Veltliner (Traisental). Moss, lemon, yeast
and boxwood are all evoked subtly on the nose but
tage turns out to be glorious. The 2019 Even the most affordable entry-level wines promise liveliness nonetheless. The palate is edged
vintage in Austria is a case in point—turning are crunchy and joyous, offering tons of refresh- with zesty citrus that underlines a concentrated,
this into a happy hat trick of stellar vintages ment and flavor for relatively little money. It yeasy core of intense saltiness that makes this
simply irresistible. Hints of white pepper shimmer
ending in nine like 1999 and 2009. begins with the bone-dry and superfragrant
in the background while lemon keeps everything
After the heatwave vintage of the previous Gelber Muskatellers that clock up a mere bright. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.K.
year, 2019 in one way was a “return to normal” 11.5% alcohol by volume (abv) and continues abv: 13% Price: $22
as the Austrian Wine Marketing with Austria’s peppery flagship
Board put it. It was a happy com-
bination of budding after spring
That lip-smacking Grüner Veltliner, which man-
ages to shine in every guise—
93 Weixelbaum 2019 Ried Wechselberg Grüner
Veltliner (Kamptal). Crushed yarrow, green
frosts had passed, spring rains

freshness and from light-bodied to serious
pear peel and lemon zest make for an aromatic
opening on the nose. The palate is just as full-
to replenish groundwater lev- intensity show and concentrated. The dry Ries- flavored and brings a fruity, juicy generosity backed
els, great flowering conditions, across the board, lings show exciting tension and by a salty, yeasty, peppery texture of yeastiness. The
a warm, even hot summer—the exuberant citrus aromas. finish is long and peppery. H. Mercer Wine & Spirit
not just in the Imports. —A.K.
hottest, driest June on record The first 2019 reds to be
in fact—followed in late August
higher-tier wines. released, most of them intended
abv: 13% Price: $21
and September by cool nights for immediate enjoyment rather

and a warm October. than laying down, have a cherry and berry exu- 92 Anton Bauer 2019 Rosenberg Grüner Veltliner
(Wagram). A flinty glint of reduction hovers
on the nose, underneath that subtle hints of yeast
This meant healthy grapes first and fore- berance that makes them refreshing crowd
and pear appear. The palate then comes in with
most, but it gave them ample time to develop pleasers. While there’s more to be released in
pithy notion that lends structure to this generous,
complex aromatics without heat or dry stress. the coming year, it’s clear that this vintage rep- rounded wine. A lovely lemon brightness seems to
The great single-site wines of the 2018 vintage resents incredible value for such artisanally reveal layers of yeasty texture. This will take some
showed that retaining freshness is something made wines. Be sure to stock up once these time to come out of its shell. Drink 2022–2032.
the Austrians are good at even in hot years. In wines hit the shelves. KWSelection.com. —A.K.
abv: 12.5% Price: $25
2019, however, that lip-smacking freshness and Cheers! —Anne Krebiehl, MW
92 Bernhard Ott 2019 Am Berg Grüner Veltliner

(Niederösterreich). Subtle notes of pear are
evoked on the nose, both freshly cut green pear peel
and riper flesh of yellow pear. The palate then kicks
GRÜNER VELTLINER
93 Eichinger 2019 Ried Hasel Grüner Veltliner
(Kamptal). Wet pebble and lemon on the
in with a salty hint of yeast and miso on the tex-
tured palate. The dry finish brims with freshness.
94 Pichler-Krutzler 2019 Ried Klostersatz

Grüner Veltliner (Wachau). The nose is a
perfect mix of creaminess, yeasty savor, citrus and
nose are shy and subtle. It is on the palate that the
salty, savory crushed herb sensations unfurl. There
is crushed yarrow and sage dissolved in lemon
Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K.
abv: 12.5% Price: $21
Mirabelle, still edged with slight reductive smo-

kiness. The palate is immensly juicy, concentrated
and zesty. There is flow and drive on the toned but
purity and edged with salty yeast. This is sleek,
concentrated, taut and brimming with flavor. Wey-
gandt-Metzler. Editors’ Choice. —A.K.
92 Bernhard Ott 2019 Fass 4 Grüner Veltliner
(Niederösterreich). The slightest whiff of
flinty reduction plays around the nose. The palate
full-fruited body, always tingling with citrus and abv: 12.5% Price: $19 has lovely freshness amidst the concentration and
saltiness. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. yeasty richness at the core. Notions of citrus pith
abv: 13% Price: $24
93 Eichinger 2019 Ried Wechselberg Grüner Velt-
liner (Kamptal). Salty white miso shimmers
and creamy miso complete the picture. Skurnik
Wines, Inc. —A.K.
94 Weixelbaum 2019 Ried Gaisberg Reserve

Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). Ripe Mirabelle
within the lifted, pure lemon notes on the nose. The
palate expands with ease to showcase juicy flow and
abv: 13% Price: $28
fruit, green pear peel and a hint of lemon oil are

subtle but pure on the nose. The palate is rounded,
generous and textured. Saltiness, yeastiness and
a salty miso note at its heart. The finish is savory
and fresh. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K.
abv: 12.5% Price: $24
92 Bründlmayer 2019 Ried Berg Vogelsang
Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). Crushed clover
and fresh yeast, accompanied by lemon, denote
intensity are a given, yet the body is toned and a fresh, vivid nose. The palate is fresh and tingles
fresh. H. Mercer Wine & Spirit Imports. —A.K.
abv: 14% Price: $30 93 Gruber Röschitz 2019 Ried Hundspoint
Grüner Veltliner (Weinviertel). Crushed yar-
row and ripe lemon peel feature subtly on the nose.
with a bit of spritz and lemony zestiness on its
Continued on page 111

The Wine Enthusiast
Buying Guide
The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release
and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine
Enthusiast magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular
contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Alexander
Peartree, Editor-in-Chief Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Lauren
Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Fiona Adams, Contributing Edi-
tors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Christina Pickard, Mike
DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New
York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin
O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in Eng-
land; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt
Kettmann in California; Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean
P. Sullivan in Washington; and Beer Editor John Holl in New Jersey.
97 Fratelli Alessandria 2016 Monvigliero
(Barolo). Aromas of ripe forest berry, cam-
phor and fragrant purple flower come together in this
If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s
initials appear following the note. When no initials appear fol-
lowing a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more
reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all
100 Giovanni Rosso 2016 Ester Canale Rosso
Poderi dell’Antica VignaRionda (Barolo).
This textbook, dream Barolo opens with quintes-
full-bodied red, along with whiffs of new leather and
underbrush. Concentrated and enveloping, the pal-
ate boasts an almost weightless finesse, delivering
tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all spirit reviews are by Kara
Newman and all beer reviews are by John Holl.
sential aromas of underbrush, rose petal, dried herb juicy Morello cherry, cranberry compote and licorice
Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its and forest berry while the youthfully austere, deli- while velvety tannins lend seamless support. Drink
suggested national retail price, its alcohol (abv) as reported to us cious palate delivers juicy Marasca cherry, raspberry 2024–2036. North Berkeley Imports. Cellar Selec-
by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content
cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices compote, licorice and menthol before a tobacco fin- tion. —K.O.
are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. ish. Noble tannins give it a firm, polished backbone abv: 15% Price: $90
TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS while bright acidity keeps it balanced and imparts
All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind. ageworthy energy. Drink 2026–2066. Vias Imports.
Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8
samples. Reviewers may know general information about a flight
Cellar Selection. —K.O.
to provide context—vintage, variety or appellation—but never abv: 14% Price: $450
the producer or retail price of any given selection. When possible,
products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted.
ABOUT THE SCORES
Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product.
Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying
tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics.
Classic 98–100:The pinnacle of quality.
Superb 94–97: A great achievement.
Excellent 90–93:Highly recommended.
Very Good 87–89:
Good 83–86:
Often good value; well recommended.
Suitable for everyday consumption;
often good value.
97 Hartford Court 2017 Hailey’s Block Pinot Noir
(Green Valley). Defined tones of red fruit and
tangerine, alongside bright acidity, give this wine
Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less-
critical circumstances.
Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80
98 McPrice Myers 2017 Les Galets Syrah (Arroyo
Grande Valley). This stunningly complex
wine offers aromas of roasted lamb, soy, iodine
undeniable lift and life. It is sourced from a cool-
climate block within the Arrendell Vineyard. Herbal
in thyme and celery seed, it delights the midpalate
points) are not reviewed.
SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS and cracked pepper lifted by lavender and lilac on with length and energy, expanding on the earthy
Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent qual- the nose. The palate explodes with cracked green theme with lasting freshness and specks of white
ity at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price peppercorns, roasted game, blackberry compote and pepper and cardamom. —V.B.
with unique qualities that merit special attention.
Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible a hint of espresso. Hedonistically rich, this is awash abv: 14.2% Price: $70
and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to in savory style that will please any wine lover. Edi-
reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation
does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but
tors’ Choice. —M.K.
that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In abv: 14.8% Price: $55
general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated.
Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in
relation to price. Wines meriting this award are generally priced
at $15 or less, and are designated Best Buys after surpassing a
specific quality-to-price ratio benchmark.
SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW
Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing lo-
cation as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.com/
contact-us. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting & Review
Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@wineenthusiast.
net. There is no charge for submitting products. We make
every effort to taste all products submitted for review, but there
is no guarantee that all products submitted will be tasted, or
that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be
accompanied by the appropriate submission forms, which may
be downloaded from our website.
97 Emmerich Knoll 2017 Loibner Gelber Traminer
Smaragd (Wachau). A pure but subtle aroma
97 Lail 2017 Blueprint Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). Made by Philippe Melka and
his team, this is a grippy, earthy wine, vibrant in
LABELS
Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given of Damask rose fills the nose, accompanied by hints blue fruit, plum and sage. Round, lush and opulent
the opportunity to submit labels only after the reviews have been of lemon and orange zest. The taut palate then turns on the palate, it glides seamlessly across supple,
finalized and assigned to a specific issue. Labels are reproduced
and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information these notions into a beguiling, aromatic mix of integrated tannin and oak, effortlessly incorporat-
on label purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax ripe clementine and orange. An otherworldly juici- ing 11% Merlot and 6% Petit Verdot. The vine-
866.896.8786; or email dvalenza@wineenthusiast.net ness is tamed by the taut, racy body. This borders yard sources range from the producer’s Mole Hill
Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at on alchemy. Drink by 2040. Circo Vino. Editors’ Estate on Howell Mountain to the cooler reaches of
winemag.com/ratings Choice. —A.K. Coombsville. —V.B.
abv: 13.5% Price: $68 abv: 14.9% Price: $80
WINEMAG.COM | 91
BUYINGGUIDE
97 Massican 2019 Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay

(Napa Valley). This is a barrel-fermented
and -aged white from the famous grower site in
97 Renato Ratti 2016 Rocche dell’Annunziata
(Barolo). Glossy, elegant and full bod-
ied, this beauty opens with aromas of dark berry,
96 Francesco Rinaldi 2013 Cannubi Riserva
(Barolo). From the great 2013 vintage, this
elegantly structured wine offers enticing aromas of
Carneros, which does justice to its soulful sense of menthol, wild rose and exotic spice. The deli- pressed rose, perfumed berry, camphor and a whiff
place. Brioche and nutmeg aromas lead to a mid- cious, finessed palate doles out mouthfuls of juicy of truffle. The chiseled, vibrant palate picks up
palate of succulent green apple, pear and oak, with red cherry, raspberry compote, vanilla and licorice where the nose left off, delivering juicy red cherry,
lifted, bright and layered acidity. Complex and com- framed in taut, fine-grained tannins. Vibrant acidity raspberry compote, licorice and baking spice set
pletely delicious, it remains focused and balanced keeps it focused and lends youthful tension. Drink against taut, refined tannins. It’s well balanced by
throughout. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. 2024–2046. LUX Wines. Cellar Selection. —K.O. bright acidity. Drink 2023–2043. Polaner Selec-
abv: 13.4% Price: $50 abv: 14.5% Price: $75 tions. Cellar Selection. —K.O.
abv: 14% Price: $125
97 Renato Ratti 2016 Conca (Barolo). Fragrant,

elegant and brimming with youthful tension,
97 Williams Selyem 2018 Terra De Promissio
this radiant red has enticing aromas evoking red
rose, forest berry, camphor and dark spice. Loaded
with finesse, the focused palate doles out juicy red
Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). The
Petaluma Gap site shows its innate earthiness in
droves here, opening in rose petal aromas before
96 Hartford 2018 Highwire Vineyard Old Vine
Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). This wine
is sourced from an estate site planted to 100-year-
cherry, pomegranate, licorice and a mineral tone evolving slowly to reveal dense, delicate layers of old vines, with half the parcel head-trained and the
alongside taut, refined tannins. Fresh acidity keeps black tea, orange peel and allspice. The savory tones other half trained on a high wire, thus the name.
balance and focus. Drink 2026–2036. LUX Wines. lead to a midpalate that bursts of rich berries, with Tangy orange peel, cherry and blackberry mesh
Cellar Selection. —K.O. soft, supple tannins framing it all. —V.B. around a densely layered core. It’s complex and rich,
abv: 14% Price: $75 abv: 13.9% Price: $65 but buoyed by bright acidity and a shock of white
pepper. —V.B.
abv: 15.9% Price: $60
97 Renato Ratti 2016 Marcenasco (Barolo). Iris,

rose, botanical herb and dark spice aromas
lead the way in this fragrant red, along with an 97 Williams Selyem 2018 Westside Road Neigh-
bors Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). A
enticing whiff of graphite. Elegantly structured and
boasting youthful tension, the vibrant palate deliv-
ers juicy Morello cherry, crushed raspberry, cinna-
perennial favorite, this wine brings together the
grapes of many sites into one, delighting the senses
in its inviting red-fruit flavors, hint of allspice and
96 Hartford Court 2017 Land’s Edge Vineyards
Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Crisp tones of
raspberry and strawberry give this coastal-driven
mon and star anise framed in taut, refined tannins. undeniably velvety texture. Complex, seductive and red a sense of place and tangy freshness. The acid-
It’s balanced and focused, with bright acidity. Drink lengthy, it is a simply beautiful wine that remains ity is spread evenly throughout on the robust pal-
2024–2036. LUX Wines. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. on the mind long after it’s gone. —V.B. ate, while a forest floor tone and dense tannins add
abv: 14% Price: $65 abv: 13.7% Price: $75 complexity and balanced weight. —V.B.
abv: 14.9% Price: $50

96 Holdredge 2018 Rochioli Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Russian River Valley). From one of the
most important historic sites in the appellation,
96 Pio Cesare 2016 Barolo. Enticingly fragrant,
this wine offers alluring scents of iris, rose,
perfumed berry and wild herb. It’s full bodied and 95 Black Stallion 2016 Transcendent Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A substantially
this wine is justifiably delicious and richly woven elegant, delivering crushed raspberry, juicy Marasca bold, complex and layered wine, this is juicy in
in tangy red fruit. Cherry, cassis and wild raspberry cherry, star anise and orange zest set against a back- feel yet firm in structured tannins. Textured and
accent a full-bodied core of grippy texture, with bone of taut, fine-grained tannins. Bright acidity intriguing in sweet oak tones, the fruit components
hints of toast and cardamom. It all resolves on a lin- keeps it balanced and lends intensity. Drink 2024– are weighted in cassis and black cherry, with a last-
gering finish. —V.B. 2036. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. Editors’ ing mineral-laden finish of crushed rock. Best from
abv: 14.6% Price: $70 Choice. —K.O. 2026–2031. Cellar Selection. —V.B.
96 Mauro Veglio 2016 Arborina (Barolo). Aro-

mas of wild rose, forest berry, star anise and
camphor emerge from the glass. Polished and full 96 Williams Selyem 2018 Olivet Lane Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). From a
in feel, the delicious palate doles out ripe Marasca
cherry, raspberry compote, licorice and tobacco
alongside fine-grained tannins that lend elegance
site planted to a selection of older vines, this wine
is carried by rose petal on the nose, with strawberry,
rhubarb and tangerine flavors wrapped around the
95 Blue Farm 2017 Anne Katherina Vineyard
Estate Farmed Pinot Noir (Carneros). Tangy
berry fruit is laced in black tea, earth and lifted acid-
while bright acidity keeps it fresh and youthfully layered palate. Fresh, crisp acidity contrasts well ity in this stellar wine, the personal project of Anne
tense. Drink 2026–2036. Total Wine & More. against a backdrop of cola and nutmeg. —V.B. Moller-Racke, who long ran Donum Estate. It is
Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 14.1% Price: $78 intensely full in feel and youthfully tannic, offering a
abv: 14.5% Price: $60 wall of defined structure. This will do well over time,
so enjoy from 2025–2030. Cellar Selection. —V.B.
abv: 14.8% Price: $65
96 Mauro Veglio 2016 Paiagallo (Barolo). Juicy

and smooth, this full-bodied red has aro-
95 Attilio Ghisolfi 2015 Bussia Bricco Visette
mas evoking fragrant purple flower, pipe tobacco,
black-skinned berry and camphor. On the delicious,
enveloping palate, firm but velvety tannins accom-
(Barolo). A camphor aroma mingles with
underbrush, grilled herb, ripe berry and spice on the
nose. Full in feel, but showing an almost weightless
95 Cliff Lede 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags
Leap District). With small amounts of
Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, this is a
pany ripe Marasca cherry, raspberry compote, elegance, the palate delivers crushed cherry, rasp- classically structured, earthy and impressive wine.
cinnamon and licorice while fresh acidity lends bal- berry compote, mint and tobacco, all framed in fine- Char, herb and earth accents frame the elegant,
ance and just enough tension. Drink 2024–2036. grained tannins. Drink 2023–2030. Quintessential crisp fruit and graceful tannins, with a lasting taste
Total Wine & More. Cellar Selection. —K.O. Wines. —K.O. of crushed rock. —V.B.
abv: 15% Price: $90 abv: 14.5% Price: $90 abv: 14.9% Price: $78
WINEMAG.COM | 93
BUYINGGUIDE
95 Gallegos 2018 Boekenoogen Vineyard Pinot

Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). This rich
showcase of Pinot Noir begins with black cherry,
95 Holdredge 2018 Three Sisters Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Fort Ross-Seaview). From the coastal
site farmed and owned by the Martinelli family, this
95 Lynmar Estate 2018 Pinot Noir (Sonoma
Coast). A tremendously impressive expres-
sion of the appellation, this wine is broadly lush and
vanilla and pomegranate, with delicate accents of stunning wine is powerfully taut and tightly coiled velvety on the palate. Juicy black cherry, strawberry
clove and star anise on the nose. It’s delicious on in tannins. Rich aromas and flavors of black cherry and earth highlight a supple tannic backbone that’s
the palate, where ripe cherry and brisk strawberry and blackberry give it a fruity, lengthy core, seasoned dusted in black tea and herb. Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
flavors ride zesty acidity toward the licorice-kissed in accents of nutmeg, dried herb and clove. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $45
finish. —M.K. abv: 14.3% Price: $70
abv: 14.8% Price: $48
95 Les Belles Collines 2018 Pinot Noir (Russian 95 Massican 2019 Annia (Napa Valley). This is
a consistently beautiful and beguiling white
95 Hartford Court 2019 Rosé of Pinot Noir

(Russian River Valley). This impressively
complex wine is breezy in lemon, grapefruit and
River Valley). This is a light, delicate
and nuanced wine, 30% whole-cluster pressed
and retentive of a feral quality that appeals and
wine, a blend of Tocai Friulano, Ribolla Gialla and
Chardonnay, the latter from Hyde Vineyards. Struc-
tured, mineral-driven and explosive in flavors of
strawberry flavors, with quenching acidity lifting it intrigues. Strawberry, cardamom and black tea top lemon zest, green apple and wet stone, it is a wine
up. Salmon in color, it unfurls a balanced texture a buzzy framework of lively acidity and a powerful well worth stocking. Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
of richness and crispness with ease, lasting on the tannic backbone, with a peppery finish that lasts for abv: 12.8% Price: $30
palate and mind. —V.B. days. —V.B.
95 McPrice Myers 2017 Shadow Canyon Syrah

(York Mountain). This wine, from a fantas-
95 Holdredge 2018 Pratt-Sexton Pinot Noir

(Sonoma Coast). From the foggy confines
of Freestone, fertile ground for cool-climate wines,
95 Lynmar Estate 2018 AMDG Pinot Noir (Rus-
sian River Valley). Earthy cardamom, black
tea and rose petal infuse the nose, with an expan-
tic and nearly forgotten appellation, starts with rich
aromas of black cherry, milk chocolate and smoked
meats. It lands softly on the palate at first, where
this wine delivers nuance and delicacy. Aromas of sive palate of lifted raspberry and pomegranate licorice, lavender and roasted black-cherry flavors
bay leaf and eucalyptus give it an herbal underbelly building the palate of this bold, beautifully layered show. The tannins slowly rise and then release their
atop which crisp tones of rhubarb and pomegranate wine. Powerfully built, it retains plenty of underly- grip over time, with much magic to come. Drink
ride, with smooth, silky tannins never getting in the ing acidity to find freshness and balance. —V.B. through 2037. Cellar Selection. —M.K.
way. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $73 abv: 15.2% Price: $55
abv: 14.1% Price: $54

95 Trimbach 2012 Cuvée Frédéric Emile Riesling
(Alsace). The beeswax lift of mature Ries-
ling shows immediately on the heady nose of this 95 Williams Selyem 2018 Pinot Noir (Sonoma
Coast). A beautiful expression of the cool- 94 Gary Farrell 2017 Sanford & Benedict Vine-
yard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Tightly
wine that’s also imbued with baked-pear ripeness. climate appellation, this wine shows enduring fla- woven aromas of boysenberry, dark, loamy soil
With more air, notes of dark fir honey combine with vors of blackberry and cherry, with deft touches of and forest wood come through on the nose of this
wet chalk. The bone-dry palate adds in candied- dried herb and forest. It holds its oak and weight bottling from a historic vineyard. There’s a strong
lemon brightness that lends dynamism and drive. with ease, offering balance within a complex struc- sense of crushed rocks on the palate, where ripe and
This is concentrated, lemony and elixir-like. Taub ture and hint of grip. —V.B. rich flavors of dark berry, cherry compote and black
Family Selections. —A.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $58 spice are wrapped in firm tannins. Drink through
abv: 13% Price: $70 2037. Cellar Selection. —M.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $65
95 Williams Selyem 2018 Vista Verde Vineyard

Late Harvest Gewürztraminer (San Benito
95 Venge 2017 Family Reserve Cabernet Sau-

vignon (Oakville). Winemaker Kirk Venge
has crafted a stunning, powerful wine that’s sourced
County). Always a shining star in the dessert
category, this bottling smells of liquefied honey-
suckle and jasmine, with ample ambrosial aromas
94 Groth 2016 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
(Oakville). With 9% Merlot in the blend,
this wine was given 22 months in 100% new French
from his own estate as well as other sites, includ- of guava and gooey cherimoya. It hits the palate oak and is built to last. Softly layered in cassis, it
ing Beckstoffer’s Missouri Hopper. Smooth, vibrant with candied, honeyed, agave-syrup-dripping glee, shows lifted acidity and graceful, firm tannins.
waves of dark plum and cherry meet an undeniable packing plumeria and tuberose flavors with ample Spicy nutmeg and clove season the fruit, adding
pulse of dried herb, tobacco and clove, ending in acidity and structure. —M.K. length and complexity. Enjoyed 2026–2031. Cellar
chalky, elongated tannins. —V.B. abv: 8% Price: $40/375 ml Selection. —V.B.
95 Williams Selyem 2018 Pinot Noir (Russian

River Valley). Lush and earthy in all the
94 Bartholomew Estate 2018 Estate Grown
Syrah (Sonoma Valley). This is a 100% vari-
etal wine from a property that’s under new owner-
94 Holdredge 2018 Rolling Thunder Pinot Noir
(Sonoma Coast). Explosive in tones of rhu-
barb, cardamom and white pepper, this wine is juicy
right ways, this appellation wine is effusive and flo- ship and winemaking oversight. Made in small and richly layered. Tannin and oak add power and
ral in a lovely bouquet of wild rose. Bright red fruit amounts, it was aged in both French and Ameri- weight around a velvety texture on the palate. —V.B.
persists through the structured and well-integrated can oak, 30% of it new. A cherry cream-soda fla- abv: 14.7% Price: $54
body, with fresh acidity and accents of black tea and vor highlights the thick, peppery and cool-climate
cardamom lifting it up. —V.B. soul of gamy meat and garrigue, with a backbone of
abv: 14.1% Price: $58 mighty power. —V.B.
abv: 15% Price: $40
WINEMAG.COM | 95
BUYINGGUIDE
94 McPrice Myers 2018 Beautiful Earth (Paso

Robles). This blend of 52% Grenache Blanc
and 48% Clairette Blanche offers aromas of chalk, 94 Sky Devil 2017 Reisacher Vineyards Cabernet
Sauvignon (Knights Valley). Winemaker
94 Justin 2016 Isosceles (Paso Robles). Soft

aromas of black cherry and smoked meat
gain complexity thanks to hints of olive, tar and
lime balm and crisp Asian pear on the nose. The pal-
ate is crisp and taut in wound up energy, granting
just a touch of racy citrus flavor to poke through the
Kirk Venge concocts a hugely powerful and con-
centrated wine in this blockbuster, made from a
high-elevation site. Caramel, toffee, black licorice,
thyme in this Cabernet Sauvignon, which includes grippy texture. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. dried herb and robust oak dot a landscape of grippy,
8% Cabernet Franc and 7% Merlot. It boasts chis- abv: 14.2% Price: $30 chalky tannin and peppery earth. Best from 2027–
eled but firm tannins and a blackberry jam flavor 2032. Cellar Selection. —V.B.
that entices on the palate, while thyme, cracked abv: 16.1% Price: $135
pepper and soy tones ride out the close. —M.K.
abv: 14.5% Price: $76
94 Roar 2018 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia High-

lands). This appellation blend offers aro-
mas of candied red cherry, strawberry and mint on
the nose. The palate packs fresh, zesty and ripe red
fruit with a complex array of herbs and spices, from
94 Starfield 2018 Marsanne (El Dorado). Rich
and luscious, this extraordinary, full-bod-
ied, creamy-textured wine is saturated in flavors of
94 Justin 2017 Savant (Paso Robles). Hick-

ory and campfire aromas meet with black
cherry and pepper on the nose of this blend of 65%
tarragon and chamomile to marjoram, sage and ani-
seed. Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
abv: 14.7% Price: $45
pear tart, butter and almond. Blended with Rous-
sanne and Viognier, it is viscous, but it’s dry and
appetizing, too. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
Syrah and 35% Cabernet Sauvignon. It lands with abv: 13.9% Price: $28
strong richness on the palate, delivering flavors of
Luxardo cherry, wild sage and smoked beef rib, all
wrapped in a lush structure. —M.K.
abv: 15% Price: $50
94 Shafer 2017 One Point Five Cabernet Sauvi- 94 Westwood 2018 Sangiacomo Vineyard Char-
donnay (Sonoma Coast). With Philippe
94 Laurel Glen 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon

(Sonoma Mountain). This estate-grown
wine is from the certified-organic site farmed by
gnon (Stags Leap District). The name signi-
fying a generation and a half of Shafers (Doug and his
late father, John), this is a powerfully built, robust
Melka and team now at the helm of these wines,
this is amongst the first from the producer to
source outside of the estate. From the great farmers
Phil Coturri. Black olive, garrigue, iron and a hint and rounded wine. Sage and violet aromas lead to a that are the Sangiacomo family, this is a rich and
of game fill in the supple, textured core of the pal- strong, sturdy core of tannin, oak and muscle, devel- mineral-driven white, with high acidity underlying
ate, with a velvety feel lifted by persistent acidity. oped with sweet tobacco, cassis and cola. —V.B. the robust, balanced layers of pear, Meyer lemon
This will do well over time; enjoy 2026–2030. Cel- abv: 15.3% Price: $95 and baking spice. —V.B.
lar Selection. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $55
abv: 14.4% Price: $90

93 Andrew Murray 2018 Tous les Jours Syrah
(Santa Ynez Valley). This bang-for-the-buck 93 Ettore Germano 2016 Cerretta (Barolo). Aro-
mas of scorched earth, toasted hazelnut,
bottling out of the Central Coast kicks off with aro-
mas of lavender, rosemary and purple fruits that
lead into a hearty palate, where blue fruit, asphalt
93 Château d’Esclans 2018 Garrus Rosé (Côtes
de Provence). This wine takes the concept
of Provence rosé to the extreme. The wood aging
underbrush and camphor lead the way. The aro-
mas carry to the full-bodied palate alongside dried
cherry, orange zest and tobacco, all framed by taut,
and cracked pepper flavors arise. Strong acidity and is beautifully integrated while a whisper of toasti- close-grained tannins. It closes on a star anise note.
elegant tannins ensure cellar worthiness as well. ness adds to the richness and concentration. A deli- Drink 2026–2046. Sussex Wine Merchants. Cellar
Editors’ Choice. —M.K. ciously textured rosé, its weight and density make it Selection. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $25 perfect for food. Enjoy in the near term. Shaw-Ross abv: 15% Price: $70
International Importers. —R.V.
93 Anglim 2016 St. Peter of Alcantara Vineyard

Syrah (Paso Robles Willow Creek District).
Decadent aromas of cassis and violet tickle the nose
93 Foxen 2018 Block UU Bien Nacido Vineyard
Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). Tightly
woven aromas of lime pith, acacia and crushed
upon entry to this single-vineyard expression. The chalk make for an enticing nose in this single-block
aromas bloom into flavors of more cassis, Concord
grape and lavish purple flowers on the palate, where
tons of acidity and firm tannins provide structure.
93 Domaine de la Mordorée 2019 La Dame
Rousse (Tavel). Perfumed notes of fresh
boysenberry and black cherry are lifted by a cut-
expression. There’s a great sizzle on the sip, where
vibrant flavors of yuzu, sea salt and lemon juice
meet with chipped wood in a complex while fresh
Drink now–2031. Cellar Selection. —M.K. ting mineral edge in this rosé. Black fruit flavors are display. —M.K.
abv: 15.3% Price: $45 intensely ripe and penetrating, accented by shav- abv: 13.4% Price: $35
ings of black pepper and a firm, fine-grained grip
of tannins. This solidly structured, thrilling wine
should improve through 2023. Kysela Père et Fils.
Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 14.5% Price: $36
93 Brotte 2017 La Marasque (Gigondas). Hints

of preserved strawberry and cassis are 93 Groth 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville).
Blended with 9% Merlot and 1% Petit
accented by clove, nutmeg and shaved black pepper
in this fruity, spicy sip. A blend of Grenache (70%)
and Syrah (30%) sourced from sand and marl soils,
93 Eight Bells 2016 David’s Block Red Willow
Vineyard (Yakima Valley). This wine is a
field blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Caber-
Verdot, this Cabernet opens with earthy aromas of
tar, sage and cedar. It expands on the palate to show
an elegant structure of finessed, supple tannins
it’s unctuously ripe but fresh, too. The finish lingers net Franc and Petit Verdot, with the Merlot picked alongside layers of clove and cinnamon atop ripe red
on neatly integrated tannins. Lovely now, the wine earlier. The aromas of cherry, herbs, spice and plum and black berries. Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
should stay at peak through 2027. Monsieur Touton draw you into the glass. Soft, pure, palate-coating fla- abv: 14% Price: $65
Selection Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. vors follow, bringing an exquisite sense of freshness
abv: 14.5% Price: $25 to the plump fruit flavors. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 14.4% Price: $38
WINEMAG.COM | 97
BUYINGGUIDE
93 Hibou 2018 Tina Marie Vineyard Pinot Noir

(Russian River Valley). Sizzling acidity and
herbal tones lift concentrated flavors of blue and
black fruit in this wild, savory red. While generous
in oak, it finds silky-smooth tannins and graceful
balance along the midpalate, ending in a fistful of
93 Les Belles Collines 2018 Chardonnay (Russian
River Valley). This crisp white is fresh in per-
sistent acidity and aged in 30% new French oak. It 93 Obsidian Ridge 2017 Estate Grown Caber-
net Sauvignon (Red Hills). This ageworthy
cinnamon. —V.B. offers a mix of green apple, nutmeg and vanilla bean Cabernet is extremely deep and concentrated, but
abv: 13.8% Price: $50 flavors that are balanced and complex, with an ele- holding everything rather tightly at this young age.
gant structure and lingering finish. —V.B. Aromas of tamarind and tobacco lead to dense fla-
abv: 14.1% Price: $42 vors of blueberry, black cherry and dark chocolate
that expand on the palate beautifully. It was aged
in Hungarian barrels, 45% new. Best from 2025–
2035. Cellar Selection. —J.G.
abv: 14.6% Price: $35
93 Holdredge 2018 Strawberry Fields Pinot Noir

(Russian River Valley). Dark and brooding
in black cherry and strawberry compote, this is a
jammy, rich and layered wine that’s velvety smooth
and hard to resist. It holds its power and weight
well, finding enough structure and acidity to com-
plement the inherent opulence. —V.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $54
93 McKinney 2017 Grimm’s Bluff Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Happy Canyon of Santa
Barbara). Aromas of roasted black cherry, black 93 Prunotto 2016 Barolo. Fragrant and refined,
this focused red opens with alluring scents
currant, caramel, tobacco and cedar make for a full of iris, woodland berry, botanical herb and pipe
yet pristine nose in this single-vineyard expression. tobacco. It’s vibrant and linear, featuring straw-
Bold black- and blue-fruit flavors pop on the palate, berry compote, raspberry and star anise framed
where a rich mouthfeel and firm tannins also deliver in bright acidity and taut, polished tannins. Drink
hints of licorice and dried beef. —M.K. 2022–2028. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —K.O.
abv: 14.7% Price: $100 abv: 14% Price: $60
93 La Spinona 2015 Bergera (Barolo). Aromas

of scorched earth, camphor, grilled herb and
leather lead the nose, along with a whiff of iris. The
tightly knit, rather austere palate offers dried cherry,
cassis, star anise and a hint of game set against
assertive, close-grained tannins that grip the close.
Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —K.O.
abv: 14% Price: $80
93 Mt. Beautiful 2018 12 Barrels Sauvignon
Blanc (North Canterbury). On the restrained
side, relatively speaking, this white offers attractive
93 Royal Tokaji 2017 Late Harvest (Tokaji). This
late-harvest wine carries aromas of pear and
acacia flower, with flavors of Bartlett pear, apricot
aromas of tangerine, lime blossom and honeysuckle, and dried rosemary. It has nice weight on the mid-
with just a suggestion of oak. The palate harmonizes palate and the finish is pleasantly sweet without
texture with refreshment, echoing the nose, but being too cloying. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.J.
adding white spice on the lengthy finish. The oak abv: 11.5% Price: $21
supports, adding weight, texture and complexity.
Drink now–2028. Mt. Beautiful USA. —C.P.
abv: 14.1% Price: $26

93 Sangiacomo 2018 Pinot Noir (Sonoma
Coast). Winemaker James MacPhail 92 Alpha Estate 2018 Single Vineyard Hedgehog
Rosé (Amyndeon). Fresh and elegant, this
employs Sangiacomo-grown grapes from Roberts
Road, Amaral and Fedrick Vineyards in this power-
house red. Juicy, broad and fleshy, it broods in blood
rosé made from 100% Xinomavro starts with aro-
mas of rose, strawberry and tropical fruit. The pal-
ate is dry and crisp but full of strawberry and saline
92 Brassfield 2017 Eruption (High Valley). Full
bodied, full flavored and firmly tannic, this
impressive wine combines good fruit concentration
orange, pomegranate and strawberry tea, with hints flavors. Its structure and full, fruity body make it a with ample accents of baking spice and dark choco-
of woody tannin and clove. —V.B. great pairing for spicy cuisine and grilled fare. Dia- late. It has a chewy, dense mouthfeel that bodes well
abv: 14.5% Price: $60 mond Importers Inc. —S.K. for pairing with big proteins. Best through 2025. —J.G.
abv: 13% Price: $25 abv: 14.8% Price: $25
93 Three Sticks 2018 Durell Vineyard Pinot Blanc

(Sonoma Coast). Planted in a cooler plot of
92 Aperture 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexan-
der Valley). Winemaker Jesse Katz has a way
of coaxing greatness from the appellation and this
92 Brassfield 2016 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
(High Valley). This focused, deeply flavored
wine is balanced to a tee. Its moderate tannins and
this great site, this wine impresses in its effusive, wine is case in point. Juicy red and blue fruit meet vibrant acidity lift a vivid black-cherry flavor, while
bright core of crisp apple, melon and wet stone. It is a tight grip of tannins, accented by clove, cinnamon subtle baking spices spread across the palate and
lengthy and lively, with a grainy grip to the texture and toasted oak. The finish is rich and supple. Edi- linger on the finish. Best through 2027. —J.G.
that finishes creamy and soft on the palate. —V.B. tors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $60
93 Undurraga 2017 T.H. Terroir Hunter Cabernet

Sauvignon (Maipo Alto). Patented Chilean
Cabernet aromas of spices, purple flowers, fine herbs
92 Biokult 2019 Naken Made With Organic
Grapes Pinot Gris-Muskateller (Burgenland).
Pink-hued and funky, this skin-contact orange wine 92 Darcie Kent Vineyards 2017 Dog Day Caber-
net (Livermore Valley). This superbly bal-
and berry fruits form a fine nose. On the palate, this brims with clementine and orange peel notes on the anced wine starts out nice and gets better with each
is juicy and air tight. Herbal berry flavors are lightly nose, supported by an overtone of honeysuckle. The sip. Aromas of red and black cherries lead to nervy
oaked and spicy, while hints of wood spice and clove light palate has a texture reminiscent of citrus pith black-fruit and baking-spice flavors. Light but per-
on the high-energy finish suggest that further aging and tingles with freshness, while clementine and sistent tannins firm up the texture in a subtle way.
will only help. Drink through 2029. Undurraga USA. white pepper notes are highlighted by the bone-dry Best through 2025. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
Cellar Selection. —M.S. nature. It is compelling and wonderfully light. Nat- abv: 14.1% Price: $40
abv: 13.5% Price: $30 ural Merchants, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —A.K.
abv: 10.5% Price: $20
WINEMAG.COM | 99
BUYINGGUIDE
92 Dr. Konstantin Frank 2014 Blanc de Noirs

Méthode Champenoise Sparkling Wine (Fin-
ger Lakes). Made almost entirely from Pinot Noir,
92 Folded Hills 2017 Grant Grenache (Santa
Ynez Valley). Very light in the glass, this
bottling begins with aromas of tart cranberry, wet 92 McKinney 2018 Queen Charlemagne Char-
donnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Oaky aromas are
with just a dollop of Pinot Meunier, this sparkler slate and a strong hint of roasted game. The palate cut by energetic citrus, toasted nuts and sea salt on
starts off with finessed aromas of crushed salt, leads with gravel minerality and gamy lamb flavors, the nose of this bottling. The palate also shows light
lemon peel and yellow apple. The palate offers a with plenty of wild herbs and pepper spice along the wood and toast, but bright Meyer lemon flavors
smooth perlage that carries zesty flavors of citrus, way. —M.K. carry the midpalate into a vanilla-custard-kissed
apple and white raspberry, all accented by lightly abv: 13.6% Price: $38 finish. —M.K.
toasted brioche. Zesty citrus tones extend on the abv: 13.6% Price: $46
finish, giving this a mouthwatering feel that leaves
you coming back for more. —A.P.
abv: 12% Price: $40
92 Eight Bells 2017 Red Willow Vineyard Sangio-

vese (Yakima Valley). From vines planted in
92 Hawk and Horse Vineyards 2015 Petite Sirah
(Red Hills). Intriguing oak spices add special
interest to this full-bodied and firmly tannic wine.
92 Michael David 2017 Inkblot Petit Verdot
(Lodi). This big but seductive wine is
immensely flavorful and tannic but also polished in
the early 1990s, this wine kicks off with aromas of Light aromas of wood smoke and white pepper are feel. It’s brimming with ripe, lush blackberry and
sour cherry, thyme and dried orange peel. Bright, followed by concentrated blackberry and blueberry blueberry flavors that are deftly accented by vanilla,
pure, laser-focused flavors follow on the palate. It flavors to yield a big, rounded mouthfeel. Best chocolate and nutmeg. Best through 2026. —J.G.
has a lovely sense of vitality, and would do well with through 2027. —J.G. abv: 15% Price: $35
some time in the cellar or a short decant. Editors’ abv: 13.9% Price: $65
Choice. —S.S.
abv: 14% Price: $25
92 Klinker Brick 2016 Farráh Syrah (Lodi). This

opulent, delicious wine wraps velvety tan-
nins around a core of ripe blackberry and blueberry
flavors while hints of baking spices, banana and
cream add complexity. It is very deep in color and
rich in texture yet easy to sip. Best through 2025.
Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
92 Folded Hills 2019 Lilly Estate Rosé (Santa

Ynez Valley). A pristine strawberry aroma
abv: 14.9% Price: $20
92 Peachy Canyon 2018 Mustang Springs
Zinfandel (Adelaida District). There’s an
unexpected floral elegance to the nose of this bot-
meets with bubblegum, cotton candy and rose petal tling, with hints of potpourri playing alongside the
on the nose of this Grenache-based rosé. There’s a more standard roasted red-fruit aromas. The pal-
great chalky grip to the sip, where light lime and soft ate aims for freshness, combining strawberry and
strawberry flavors ride sizzling acidity into the fin- hibiscus with a hint of rose petal. —M.K.
ish. —M.K. abv: 14.4% Price: $42
abv: 13.2% Price: $28

92 Peachy Canyon 2018 Petite Sirah (Paso
Robles). Heavy aromas of roasted coffee,
92 Starfield 2018 Roussanne (El Dorado). This
mouthfilling, full-bodied wine is rich in tex-
ture yet well balanced by lifted acidity. It offers a
soy-crusted-beef roast and a light brush of purple delicious range of creamy fruit and toasted flavors
flowers make for a savory nose in this bottling. The that expand on the palate and linger on the finish.
wine lands smoothly on the palate, with just enough
tannins to hold up the blackberry, purple flower
and pepper flavors, finishing with a vanilla-caramel
A generous 23% of Viognier was blended in. —J.G.
abv: 14.3% Price: $28 91 Balistreri 2018 Talbott Vineyard Petite Sirah
(Grand Valley). The nose of this wine is
loaded with cracked black pepper, cherry and black
swirl. —M.K. raspberry aromas. The palate is juicy in cherry and
abv: 14.5% Price: $40 pomegranate flavors, with intense notes of clove
and black pepper chiming in while the tannins offer
a velvety texture. The finish is all tart cranberry and
mulling spices. —F.A.
abv: 15.2% Price: $48
92 Viña Tarapacá 2018 Gran Reserva Etiqueta

Negra Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley).
Full and complex aromas of hot stones, black fruit,
92 Peachy Canyon 2018 The Odd One (Adelaida

District). Bright, fresh aromas of raspberry
and hibiscus make for a zesty entry on the nose of
wood spice and char are compelling in front of a
youthful palate. Blackberry, coffee, chocolate and
peppery wood-spice flavors hum with residual ripe-
this atypical blend of 62% Zinfandel, 15% Carignan, berry notes on a deep finish. Drink from 2021–2028.
15% Counoise and 8% Petite Sirah. The palate is MundoVino–Winebow. Cellar Selection. —M.S.
refreshing in flavors of black raspberry compote,
fennel pollen and peppery spices that would sing
even with a slight chill. Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
abv: 14.5% Price: $35
91 Black Stallion 2016 Gaspare Vineyard Estate
Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Oak Knoll Dis-
trict). Black olive and a hint of gamy meat highlight
abv: 14.4% Price: $40 a silky-smooth, well-integrated core in this single-
vineyard wine. Crushed rock, black cherry, currant
and toasted oak characterize all of its layers. —V.B.
abv: 15.5% Price: $75
92 Williams Selyem 2018 Pinot Noir (Sonoma

County). Light and delicately woven in fla-
vors of clove, nutmeg and blue fruit, this approach-
92 Scheid 2017 Doctor’s Vineyard Pinot Noir

(Santa Lucia Highlands). Quite light in the
glass, this single-vineyard expression offers aromas
able wine is sourced from vineyards in the Russian
River Valley and Sonoma Coast appellations. It
brings together lush richness and cool-climate acid-
of wild cherry, dried sage, tarragon, crushed stone
and root beer on the nose. The palate is ripe yet bal-
anced, with flavors of cherry juice, vanilla bean, star
ity with ease. Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
abv: 13.9% Price: $39 91 Clay Shannon 2018 El Coyote Chardonnay
(Red Hills). This richly textured and subtly
spicy wine is full in feel and mouthcoating. It’s laced
anise and dried ginger. —M.K. with flavors of nutmeg, vanilla and toasted baguette
abv: 14.9% Price: $75 that are tempting and sophisticated. —J.G.
abv: 14.5% Price: $30
WINEMAG.COM | 101
BUYINGGUIDE
91 Domaine Salmon 2019 Grande Réserve Sur

Lie (Muscadet Sèvre et Maine). This wine has
richness as well as the light freshness more typical of 91 Fess Parker 2018 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills).
This widely available and fairly priced wine 91 Mas de la Dame 2019 La Gourmande Rosé
(Les Baux de Provence). A blend of Grenache,
a Muscadet. That combination gives depth to flavors starts with aromas of tightly wound red fruit and Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Mourvèdre, this is a
of citrus and red apple, with a hint of pink grape- dusty minerals. The palate deftly balances density rich, scintillating wine. It pulsates with freshness as
fruit. Drink now–2021. Vinovia Wine Group. —R.V. with lifted acidity, carrying flavors of roasted cherry well as ripe berry flavors. Lightly structured, it is all
abv: 12% Price: $17 and root beer spice. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. about fruitiness, with crisp acidity at the end. Drink
abv: 14.1% Price: $30 now. Taub Family Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $20
91 Dr. Konstantin Frank 2016 Brut Méthode

Champenoise Sparkling Wine (Finger Lakes).
Vibrant aromas of lemon curd and pear mix with 91 Foxen 2018 Ernesto Wickenden Vineyard Old
Vines Chenin Blanc (Santa Maria Valley).
salt and brioche on the nose of this sparkler that’s Aromas of dried apple and pear, orange peel, elder-
made from 50% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir and
5% Pinot Meunier. The palate is racy and bright,
with a persistent perlage that carries flavors of
flower and beach sand show on the nose of this tasty
white wine. There’s an extremely textural tone of
grapefruit pith on the palate, with a warmer hint of
91 Michael David 2017 Earthquake Zinfandel
(Lodi). Spicy, charred oak aromas and flavors
dominate this full-bodied, tannic and mouthfilling
lemon and apple. A lightly toasted brioche note lin- blanched almond as well. —M.K. wine, but it has the ripeness to back these up. The
gers on the close. —A.P. abv: 13.6% Price: $26 color is dark and deep, the aromas peppery and
abv: 12% Price: $25 toasted, and the black-fruit flavors mingle nicely
with a rich layer of fine-grained tannins. —J.G.
abv: 15.5% Price: $26
91 Eight Bells 2019 Boushey Vineyard Chardon-

nay (Yakima Valley). The fruit for this wine
91 Maquis 2017 Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon (Colchagua Valley). Aromas of plum,
cherry, oak and leather require airing to find their
comes from a single block of the vineyard and is
a mixture in equal parts of four different clones:
Wente, 95, 96 and 548. With 84% fermented
stride, while this is concentrated on the palate. Mild
oak flavors frame black fruit, resulting in spice and
chocolate notes. A tight finish with a grip of tan-
91 Michael David 2017 Inkblot Cabernet Franc
(Lodi). Concentrated, dark and tannic, this
full-bodied wine packs in dense flavors of black-
and aged in stainless, it carries vibrant aromas of nins is lasting and structured. Drink through 2023. berry jam and dark chocolate wrapped in a firm
freshly cut pear, green apple, flower and wet stone. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. layer of tannins. Further sipping reveals tones of
Lively, lemony acidity brightens the textured palate. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 baking spices, which also carry through to the fin-
It’s delicious on its own but will shine at the din- ish. Best from 2023. —J.G.
ner table. Pair it with seared scallops with a lemon abv: 15% Price: $35
beurre blanc. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 13.1% Price: $28

91 Royal Tokaji 2017 Dűlőválogatás Vineyard
Selection Furmint (Tokaji). This white carries
91 Millbrook 2018 Pinot Noir (New York). A

heady nose of pink grapefruit, hibiscus and
cherry kicks off this delightfully lifted Pinot. The
91 Paul Dolan 2019 Made with Organic Grapes
Sauvignon Blanc (Mendocino County). Fresh
herb flavors light up this well-balanced, concen-
aromas of flint, yellow peach and apple blossom. It
is big in feel, with flavors of apricot, flint and citrus
zest. The finish is smooth yet lifted in acidity. Wil-
palate is sultry and smooth, displaying ripples of trated and distinctive wine. Basil and parsley aro- son Daniels Ltd. —J.J.
coiled red fruit, citrus and moss. The tannins are mas are followed by lemongrass flavors that carry a abv: 13.5% Price: $27
polished yet firm, with bright acidity lifting it all up. lot of energy through the tangy finish. —J.G.
A cherry bitters note marks the close, giving it a real abv: 14.5% Price: $18
sense of grip and length. —A.P.
abv: 13% Price: $23
91 Schramsberg 2017 Méthode Traditionnelle

Brut Rosé (North Coast). Well-balanced and
91 Réva 2016 Cannubi (Barolo). This brawny

red opens with aromas of menthol, under-
refreshing, this dry wine blends mineral and chalk
aspects with tasty raspberry flavors. It is a slightly
91 Neyers 2018 Sage Canyon Red Wine (Califor-

nia). This full-bodied Carignan-based wine
wraps potent fruit and dark-spice flavors in a firm
brush and oak-driven spice. On the full-bodied and
densely concentrated palate, close-grained tannins
accompany fleshy black cherry, raspberry jam, cin-
restrained, elegant expression that will please
many. —J.G.
abv: 12.6% Price: $47
texture, framed by bright acidity and moderate namon and vanilla. You’ll notice the warmth of
tannins. Its good structure and concentration will alcohol, but the chewy fruit stands up to the heat.
pair well with many rich proteins. Best through Drink through 2021–2028. Lipman Bros. —K.O.
2025. —J.G. abv: 15% Price: $200
abv: 13.6% Price: $30
91 Scotto Family Cellars 2017 Mohr Fry Ranch

Reserve Zinfandel (Lodi). Richness of flavor
and a good, lip-smacking texture come together
nicely in this full-bodied, wonderfully juicy and
91 Opaque 2017 Petit Verdot (Paso Robles).

Aromas of stewed black currant, smoke, soy,
91 Rombauer 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa
County-Sonoma County). Fresh and focused
in a steely frame, this wine shows plenty of fruit
lightly spicy wine. Cinnamon, vanilla and cedar
accent the black cherry and blackberry flavors,
while moderate tannins give good grip to the tex-
charred toast and caramel show on the rich nose intensity in pineapple, melon, lemon and grapefruit ture. —J.G.
of this bottling. It’s soft and smooth on the palate, tones. The neutral oak influence is subdued yet adds abv: 14.8% Price: $20
where a cassis flavor mixes into a lavender tone, all length. —V.B.
framed in firm tannins. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $24
abv: 14.9% Price: $30
WINEMAG.COM | 103
BUYINGGUIDE
91 Sean Minor 2017 Sangiacomo Roberts Road

Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Tangy
orange peel, strawberry and raspberry highlight
91 Willowbrook 2017 Kaufman Sunnyslope Vine-
yard Clone 777 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Moun-
tain). Flavors of black tea, strawberry and black
90 Beaulieu Vineyard 2018 Chardonnay
(Carneros). This oak-driven white is
intensely flavored and layered in medium-bodied
a fresh, delicate structure in this wine. Integrated cherry ride along a smooth, velvety palate. While punches of pear, vanilla and brioche. It lingers on
tannins and sprinklings of cardamom and cinnamon well-structured, it also retains plenty of lift and deli- the finish in a tropical bite of pineapple. —V.B.
add length to the full-bodied palate. —V.B. cacy throughout. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $25
90 Andis 2017 Barbera d’Amador (Sierra Foot-

hills). This full-bodied wine offers rich,
91 St. Supéry 2016 Estate Grown Estate Bottled

Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This wine
possesses 6% Petit Verdot as well as small amounts
palate-coating fruit and dark-spice flavors that sit
on a mouthfilling, velvety texture. Good depth and a
sense of layering add to its considerable appeal. —J.G. 90 Beaulieu Vineyard 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). With small doses of Syrah,
of Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Thick and abv: 14% Price: $30 Petite Sirah and Touriga Nacional, this well-made
densely packed in tannin, it layers together flavors of red is smooth and widely appealing. Black cherry,
mocha, cassis and crushed rock, with bright acidity vanilla and blackberry flavors are juicy and lengthy,
featured throughout. It finishes on a touch of coffee with an impressive backbone of freshness. —V.B.
bean. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $33
abv: 14.5% Price: $42
91 Vite Colte 2016 Paesi Tuoi (Barolo). Intense

aromas of rose petal, violet, underbrush and 90 Baron Philippe de Rothschild 2018 Escudo
Rojo Origine Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo
90 Brassfield 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (High
Valley). This layered and luscious wine
offers plump cherry and blackberry aromas on the
leather lead the way. Bright and focused, the pal- Valley). Briary berry and plum aromas are dark and nose. The saturated palate brings blueberry and
ate offers red cherry, cinnamon and tobacco along- spicy on the nose. On the palate, this feels tight and mild baking spices, while fine-grained tannins lend
side fine-grained tannins. Drink 2023–2031. Opera gripping in tannin, with spicy berry flavors and herbs a honed texture. —J.G.
Wine Imports. —K.O. on the close. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $30
abv: 14% Price: $60 abv: 14% Price: $32

90 Brotte 2017 Bouvencourt (Vacqueyras). A
pretty violet perfume mingles into crisp
red cherry and cassis in this bright, zesty Grenache
90 Dr. Konstantin Frank 2017 Old Vines Pinot
Noir (Finger Lakes). Aromas of freshly
pressed cherries, earthy stems and delicate pep-
90 Frei Brothers 2017 Sonoma Reserve Pinot
Noir (Russian River Valley). Silky smooth in
feel and showing a great depth of fruit, this red is
blended with just 10% Syrah. It’s an immediately pery spice carry the nose of this Pinot Noir that’s richly layered and reminiscent in all the best ways
approachable, fresh-fruited sip, with lip-smacking partially sourced from vineyards on Keuka Lake of cherry pie. It’s full in feel and cradled in toasted
twists of sour cherries and fine, taut tannins on the that were planted in 1958. The light-bodied palate oak. —V.B.
finish. Drink now–2024. Monsieur Touton Selec- is rounded and juicy in feel, with tart cherry and abv: 14.5% Price: $27
tion Ltd. —A.I. currant flavors pushed along by persistent acidity.
abv: 14.5% Price: $23 A delicate cocktail bitters note arises on the mid-
palate and resolves into the smooth, silky tannins
on the finish. —A.P.
abv: 13% Price: $22
90 Gallo Signature Series 2017 Chardonnay

(Russian River Valley). A classically rich,
substantial white from the appellation, this is
robust in flavors of Gravenstein apple, caramel,
90 Clos Pegase 2019 Mitsuko’s Vineyard Estate

Bottled Sauvignon Blanc (Carneros). This
grassy, herbal white is effusive in pea shoot and 90 Dry Creek Vineyard 2018 DCV Block 10 Char-
donnay (Russian River Valley). The major-
toffee and oak. Full bodied, fleshy and weighty on
the palate, it finishes in a lasting taste of lemon
meringue. —V.B.
legume, with a creaminess to the palate. It develops ity of this wine was barrel fermented and aged in abv: 14.5% Price: $36
into layers of fresh peach and lime on the palate that French oak. It offers a steely, straightforward frame
contrast the wine’s herbal sensations well. —V.B. of Meyer lemon and stone, with an underlying rich-
abv: 13.8% Price: $22 ness on the midpalate of pear and fig dusted lightly
in nutmeg. —V.B.
abv: 13.8% Price: $34
90 Concha y Toro 2018 Marques de Casa Concha

Chardonnay (Limarí Valley). Clean white-
90 Gallo Signature Series 2016 Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon (Napa Valley). Plush, sizable tannins
wrap around a generous core of oak and body in this
fruit aromas show nice lift on the nose, while this
Limarí Chardonnay smells faintly smoky and toasty.
A textural body is medium to full in size, while light
90 Educated Guess 2017 Red Wine Blend (North
Coast). This bold, ripe and firmly tannic
wine is deep and dark in color. It exudes toasted
robust red. Black currant, cedar and crushed rock
flavors complement each other, leading the way to a
finishing touch of mocha. —V.B.
oak notes accent flavors of melon and green banana. wood aromas and delivers deep blackberry and abv: 14.9% Price: $50
A steady finish confirms the relative high quality of black-cherry flavors. Pleasant concentration and
this oak-aged Chardonnay. Fetzer Vineyards. —M.S. grip help it stand out. —J.G.
WINEMAG.COM | 105
BUYINGGUIDE
90 Jean-Luc Colombo 2019 La Dame du Rouet

Rosé (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). A ripe 90 Maison Gilliard 2018 Sion Fendant les
Murettes Chasselas (Valais). Aromas of
style of rosé from Rhône producer Jean-Luc Colombo,
this is soft, fruity and attractively crisp. Bright red
fruits shine, resulting in a fresh yet rich wine that is
lemon zest, honeysuckle and lemon flan lead to fla-
vors of apple, pear and vanilla custard. It is creamy
in feel, with a pleasing level of minerality and a crisp
90 Roots Run Deep Winery 2016 The Graduate
Cabernet Sauvignon (Howell Mountain).
Spiced plum, cedar and tobacco highlight a gener-
ready to drink. Taub Family Selections. —R.V. finish. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —J.J. ously full-bodied, concentrated wine that’s deeply
abv: 12.5% Price: $22 abv: 12.7% Price: $34 etched in tannin and oak. It was blended with 5%
Merlot and 5% Malbec. —V.B.
abv: 15.5% Price: $150
90 Laguna 2017 Chardonnay (Russian River

Valley). Fleshy, steely and soft, this wine 90 Millbrook 2017 Proprietor’s Special Reserve
Cabernet Franc (Hudson River Region). Aro-
offers a nice contrast of crisp, focused acidity and
opulent fruit. Peach and nectarine are front and
center on the palate, with lasting richness. —V.B.
mas of earth, warm spices and red cherry coulis
form the nose of this Cabernet Franc that sees 15
months in oak. The palate shows a pleasing mix of
90 Rutherford Ranch 2019 Sauvignon Blanc
(Napa Valley). Grassy, herbal and opulent
on the palate, this is a smooth, fruity expression of
abv: 14.2% Price: $35 ripe red-berry flavors wrapped in allspice. Finely melon and peach that works on every level. Light,
knit tannins are fleshed out by juicy acidity, giv- crisp acidity maintains freshness and balance. —V.B.
ing this wine immediate appeal to enjoy in the near abv: 13% Price: $23
term. —A.P.
abv: 13% Price: $40
90 Lucien Albrecht 2019 Réserve Riesling

(Alsace). Aromas of flowers, lemon and
freshly cut apple create an appetizing nose. The
palate reprises these aromatic notions on a slen-
der, fresh and vivid palate that’s pervaded by lemon
zestiness. This has zip and energy, all bundled on a 90 Napa Cellars 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). Red currant and dark cherry
90 San Simeon 2019 Stefano Vineyard Gre-
nache Rosé (Paso Robles). Clean lines of
cantaloupe rind and guava peel show on the nose of
dry, concentrated body. Foley Family Wines. —A.K. highlight a moderately structured, medium-bodied this bottling. The palate hits with a steely tension,
abv: 12.5% Price: $20 palate. It offers plenty of likable approachability offering brisk lemon and pink-fruit flavors. —M.K.
with its soft, rounded richness. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $25
abv: 14.2% Price: $34

90 Tribute 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Monterey
County). Rounded aromas of apple and
ripe pear meet with peach, apple blossoms and a
mix of kiwi and jicama on the dynamic nose of this
90 Scott Harvey 2017 J&S Reserve Barbera

(Amador County). This medium-bodied
wine is aromatic and smooth. Cedar and floral aro-
bottling. The palate’s ripe pear flavor is cut by wet
cement and white pepper. —M.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $17
90 Vinum Cellars 2018 The Insider Pinot Noir
(Sonoma Coast). This is a value-driven
wine that overdelivers on its price point, offering
mas lead to focused, mulled fruit flavors and a silky black cherry, vanilla and dried herb around an oaky
texture that shows light tannins. —J.G. center. Made in a full-bodied, fleshy and lush style,
abv: 14.9% Price: $39 it finishes in earthy varietal character and drops of
cinnamon. —V.B.
abv: 14.6% Price: $20
90 Trione 2019 River Road Ranch Sauvignon

Blanc (Russian River Valley). Picked before
the Kincade fires hit the Alexander Valley, this white
90 Shannon Ridge 2018 High Elevation Collec-

tion Chardonnay (Lake County). Nicely bal-
anced and layered, this medium-bodied wine wraps
is grassy and herbal, with a hint of matchstick on
the nose. It is stony and chalky on the palate, tasting
of candied lemon peel and honeydew melon. —V.B.
good, snappy lemon and tempting vanilla flavors in
lively acidity. It’s nervy and rather rich at the same
time, which is a tasty combination. —J.G.
abv: 13.5% Price: $25
90 Z. Alexander Brown 2018 Uncaged Cabernet
Sauvignon (California). This is a serious,
full-bodied wine from musician Zac Brown that will
abv: 13.8% Price: $23 need some time to grow into its best self. Tight fruit
and spice flavors are wrapped in firm tannins. While
delicious now, it could wait until 2023 to be best
enjoyed. —J.G.
abv: 14.5% Price: $18
90 Trombetta 2019 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Sonoma

Coast). From several sites, including Gap’s
Crown, this refreshing wine tastes of muddled
90 Shannon Ridge 2018 High Elevation Collec-

tion Petite Sirah (Lake County). This full-
bodied wine offers big, ripe flavors and smooth tan-
strawberry, biscotti and freshly cut melon. Full and
fleshy in style, it is a crowd-pleaser, with a creamy
texture and lasting richness. —V.B.
nins. It’s approachable for Petite Sirah, and packed abv: 14.2% Price: $28
with dark chocolate and black pepper notes that
will appeal to many. —J.G.
abv: 14.9% Price: $23
89 Sula NV Brut Tropicale Méthode Tradition-

nelle (Nashik). Pale blush in color, with a
persistent stream of small bubbles, this wine has
aromas of apricot and rose petal. It offers a feel-
ing of effervescence on the backpalate, with flavors
of apple, strawberry and yellow plum that culmi-
nate on the peach-flavored finish. Dreyfus, Ashby
& Co. —M.D.
abv: 12% Price: $17
WINEMAG.COM | 107
BUYINGGUIDE
BEST BUYS BEST BUYS
88 Cramele Recas 2019 Amber Natural Wine

(Romania). This Romanian orange wine is
actually more golden hued in the glass, with aromas
of apple juice, vanilla, apple cider vinegar and rose
petal. In the mouth, it is slightly tart on the mid-
90 Biokult 2019 Made With Organic Grapes
Zweigelt Rosé (Burgenland). Ripe straw-
berry, lemon and pepper make for a most appetizing
90 Noble Vines 2019 515 Rosé (Central Coast).
A pale shade of pink in the glass, this rosé
offers aromas of cotton candy and strawberry set
palate, with flavors of apple cider, vanilla, peach and nose. The light-bodied palate empahsizes the citrus against a chalky backdrop. It’s brisk on the sip, with
nectarine. Tri-Vin Imports. —J.J. freshness as well as the spicy berry roundness and struck stone and a lively strawberry tone. Best Buy.
abv: 13% Price: $25 comes to a fresh, dry finish. Natural Merchants, Inc. —M.K.
Best Buy. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $13
abv: 11% Price: $15
88 Ocnautic 2018 Chardonnay (Monterey

County). Toasty oak and roasted white-fruit
flavors meet with Meyer lemon and orange peel on
the nose of this bottling. There’s a flash of lemon
juice acidity on the sip, which cuts into the toasty
90 Noble Vines 2018 667 Pinot Noir (Monterey).
A solid option for fairly priced Pinot Noir,
this clonal selection starts with aromas of chapar-
oak and seared marshmallow flavors. —M.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $15 90 Identified 2018 Zinfandel (Lodi). Dark and
concentrated but easy on the palate, this
full-bodied wine oozes blackberry jam and warm
ral spice, wet earth and a hint of cranberry. There’s a
strong sense of bay leaf and pine on the palate, along
with boysenberry and bold acidity that washes into
blueberries, while coating the mouth with a layered, the vanilla-kissed finish. Best Buy. —M.K.
BEST BUYS concentrated texture. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $15
abv: 14.8% Price: $15
92 Parducci 2017 Small Lot Petite Sirah (Mendo-

cino County). Sleek, sophisticated and
understated, this full-bodied wine is keeping plenty
of concentrated blackberry and blueberry flavors in 90 Montoya 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mon-
terey). An elegant array of tightly woven
reserve for the future. Fine-grained tannins support
a surprisingly supple mouthfeel. Best through 2027.
Best Buy. —J.G.
black cherry, red flower, olive and loamy soil aromas
make for a compelling entry to this bottling. Tan-
nins grab the palate right away, carrying flavors of
90 Sebastopol Oaks 2018 Pinot Noir (California).
This smooth, well-balanced wine deftly
matches ripe black cherry and mild baking-spice
abv: 14.5% Price: $14 fresh red fruit, light pepper spice and candied boy- flavors on a supple texture that has a melt-in-the-
senberry into a soft finish. Best Buy. —M.K. mouth aspect. It is so easy to like and enjoy. Best
abv: 13.7% Price: $15 Buy. —J.G.
abv: 14.2% Price: $15

BEST BUYS BEST BUYS BEST BUYS
89 Gnarly Head 2018 Old Vine Zin (Lodi). Big,

bold and spicy, this full-bodied wine boasts
beef, black pepper and grilled plum flavors that are
89 Rough Day 2019 Unoaked Chardonnay
(Thracian Valley). This Bulgarian white has
aromas of white peach, honeysuckle and Granny
wrapped in moderate tannins for good grip. Best Smith apple. In the mouth, lively acidity lifts flavors
Buy. —J.G. of apple, lemon curd and lemon zest before the crisp
90 Sula 2019 Shiraz (Nashik). This deep-garnet

colored wine has aromas of blackberry and
anise seed. It is soft on the palate, with flavors of
abv: 14.5% Price: $13 finish. G&B Importers. Best Buy. —J.J.
abv: 13% Price: $12
raspberry, pomegranate, caramel and clove. The

finish is notably spicy. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Best
Buy. —M.D.
abv: 13% Price: $13
89 Oak Grove 2019 Family Reserve Sauvignon

Blanc (California). This is a lively, nervy
wine that nicely matches bright citrus flavors with 89 Rough Day 2018 Pinot Noir (Danube River
Plains). This Bulgarian Pinot Noir has aro-
tasty mineral and white-pepper notes. Subtlety and mas of red cherry, raspberry and dried Mediterra-
complexity in a light-bodied package make it some- nean herbs. It is soft and juicy in the mouth, with
thing special. Best Buy. —J.G. flavors of ripe cherry, rose petal and cranberry. The
90 Verraco Ridge 2017 Chardonnay (Monterey

County). For those who prefer a buttery
style of Chardonnay, this is a cleanly made and
abv: 12% Price: $9 finish is soft and persistent. G&B Importers. Best
Buy. —J.J.
abv: 12.5% Price: $13
affordably priced option. Aromas of white peach, Key
lime, sea salt and browned butter lead into a smooth
palate of caramel, baking spice and more salt. Best
Buy. —M.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $15
89 Cherrycream 2018 Pinot Noir (California).

This is a good, well-made, flavorful wine that
89 Rough Day 2019 Rosé (Thracian Valley).
Light pink in the glass, this Bulgarian rosé
entices in aromas of rose petal, dark cherry and 88 1924 2018 Double Black Limited Edition
Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). Rich, dense
combines savory, earthy aspects of nutmeg and clove vanilla. The palate brings flavors of cranberry, rose and velvety, this full-bodied wine does a good job
with abundant notes of black cherry and cooked hips and pomegranate, with ripe fruit extending on of matching oak inputs like wood smoke and vanilla
plum. It’s full in body yet nicely braced by soft tan- the finish. G&B Importers. Best Buy. —J.J. with ripe, lush flavors of blackberry and blueberry.
nins. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Best Buy. —J.G.
WINEMAG.COM | 109
BUYINGGUIDE
BEST BUYS BEST BUYS BEST BUYS
87 Cline 2018 Old Vine Zinfandel (Lodi). Ripe

and jammy in flavor, this full-bodied wine
87 Oak Grove 2018 Family Reserve Pinot Noir
(California). This well-made, straight-
forward wine offers black cherry flavor and a
verges on sweet, emphasizing vanilla and milk- smooth texture. It’s medium in body, light in tannin
88 Kirkland Signature 2019 Pinot Grigio (Cali-

fornia). Don’t be put off by the box format.
Floral aromas and ripe melon and citrus flavors dom-
chocolate aromas, a rich, plummy flavor and soft
texture that’s low in tannin. Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 14.5% Price: $11
and easy to sip. Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 13% Price: $10
inate this enjoyable, medium- to full-bodied wine.

It feels nicely round and mouthfilling in texture.
Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 12% Price: $13/3 L
87 Veramonte 2019 Reserva Made with Organic

Grapes Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Val-
87 Happy Camper 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon

(California). Aromas of cedar and sawn oak
lead to raspberry and black cherry flavors in this
ley). Haystack and golden apple aromas come with
a whiff of sulfur. On the palate, malic acidity keeps
this fresh and racy. Salty flavors of green apple and
woody and solidly structured wine. Firm tannins gooseberry finish short. Drink now. Gonzalez Byass
88 Montoya 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Monterey).

Tart Persian lime aromas meet with wet
cement and green grass on the precise nose of this
and good acidity give it plenty of grip, and the oak
spices are fun to savor. Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 13% Price: $9
USA. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $12
bottling. The wine hits the palate with a tight texture

and then opens toward riper peach flavors, finishing SPIRITS
with a hint of lawn trimmings. Best Buy. —M.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $12
87 Montoya 2018 Chardonnay (Monterey). A

subdued honeydew aroma meets with tan-
gerine cream and guava on the nose of this bottling.
The palate is quite tropical, with flavors of plume- 94 Dos Maderas Selección Superior Reserve
Rum (Spain; Palm Bay International, Port
88 Oak Grove 2019 Family Reserve Winemak-

er’s Rosé (California). This medium-bodied
wine is smooth and nicely fruity, offering honeydew
ria, mango cream and baked guava. Best Buy. —M.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $12
Washington, NY). Expect a dark brown hue and rich
toffee and espresso aromas. This rich, velvety sip-
per offers plenty of mocha and fudge, finishing with
melon and raspberry flavors on a smooth texture dusty cocoa and a hint of dried fig that belies PX
with a little nip of acidity. Best Buy. —J.G. Sherry is part of the mix. This bottling is made of
abv: 12% Price: $9 rums from Barbados and Guyana that are aged in
the Caribbean for 10 years. It is then transported to
Spain for blending with casks of five-year-old rum
that has been finished in PX Sherry casks.
abv: 42% Price: $60

SPIRITS slender but vivid body. Tinges of yeast and yarrow yeast and ripe peach notes on the nose make for an
add that wonderful spiciness. Terry Theise Estate aromatic, inviting opening. The palate then brims
Selections. —A.K. with peppery freshness, ripe peachness and salty
abv: 12.5% Price: $34 yeast. It’s all in a juicy, rounded, fresh package.
Winemonger. —A.K.
92 Domäne Wachau 2019 Liebenberg Grüner Velt-

liner Federspiel (Wachau). A lovely, pure and
abv: 12% Price: $19
tantalising hint of ripe, fresh peach plays on the nose.

The palate then sweeps in with concentrated fresh-
ness and citric precision, citing lemon and stone. This
92 Josef Bauer 2019 Katharina Grüner Veltliner
(Wagram). Freshly cut pear peel flashes
between richer notions of yeasty generosity on the
is vivid, slender, juicy, taut, bright, dry and utterly nose. The palate comes with a little spritz that serves
refeshing. Gonzalez Byass USA. —A.K. to highlight the beautiful, rich, yeasty nature and the
90 Dos Maderas Double Aged Rum 5+3 (Spain;

Palm Bay International, Port Washington,
abv: 12.5% Price: $25 salty nuances that are revealed in the texture. Smooth
and dry is the verdict. Siema LLC. —A.K.
NY). This was aged for five years in the Caribbean
and three years in Sherry casks in Spain’s Jerez 92 Ebner-Ebenauer 2019 Ebenthal Grüner Velt-
liner (Niederösterreich). Gentle hints of yeast
abv: 12.5% Price: $22
region, hence the name. Look for a golden hue and

vanilla and brown sugar aromas, which are echoed
on the buttery palate. It evolves into a long spiced
and pepper appear on the nose before green pear
aromas take over. The palate has a gentle generosity
despite its slenderness and a savory depth that draws
92 Markus Huber 2019 Terrassen Grüner Veltliner
(Traisental). A subtle tone of yeast on the nose
has a bright edge of lemon zest. The palate also com-
finish that reads almost like a lightly spiced vanilla you in with its salty charm. The body remains slen- bined savory, textured yeast with tingling, zesty lemon,
cake, braced up with a hint of grapefruit peel bitter der, showing a lovely texture and finishing with salty resulting in a lovely combination of richness and tangy
bite. Best Buy. freshness. The Sorting Table. —A.K. freshness. The body is slender, concentrated, dry and
abv: 40% Price: $28 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA vivid. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.K.
abv: 12.5% Price: $18
BEER 92 Eichinger 2019 Strass Grüner Veltliner (Kamp-

tal). Pure and intense notes of freshly cut ripe
pear peel and flesh come with an extra citrus lift and a 92 Stadt Krems 2019 Grüner Veltliner (Krem-
stal). Underneath the vivid green pear and
herbal edge on the nose. The concentrated palate con- lemon notes on the nose there is a real Mirabelle
tinues with this intensity and lets pure lemon forge intensity. The palate adds yeasty creaminess to these
ahead trailing a lovely cloud of pear, moss and yarrow. notions on a slender but concentrated palate, while
The finish is zesty, spicy, racy and long. Weygandt- salty, peppery highlights enliven that yeasty body.
Metzler. Editors’ Choice. —A.K. Craft+Estate–Winebow. Best Buy. —A.K.
92 Georg Frischengruber 2019 Ried Steiger Grüner

Veltliner Federspiel (Wachau). There is some- 92 Türk 2019 vom Urgestein Grüner Veltliner
(Niederösterreich). A touch of moss and wet
96 West Sixth Pennyrile Pale Ale (Juicy/Hazy

Pale Ale; West Sixth Brewing, KY). The cara-
mel malts play a crucial role in this beer, as it gives
thing fragrant and scented that accompanies the
green pear ntoes on the nose, reminiscent of grape-
fruit but also of white blossom. The body comes in
pebble is all that appear on the nose but it is enough
to promise freshness. The concentrated, generous but
toned body duly delivers. There is more of that lemon
a soft and sweet platform for the tropical fruit hop with juicy clarity and precision, adding stony fresh- richness, a lovely texture and echoes of stone, pep-
oils. It offers a smooth hop experience from begin- ness and Mirabelle juiciness. The dry finish brings per, salty yeast and zest. It is impossible not to have
ning to end, never becoming too bitter. It’s the right back the grapefruit zestiness. Schatzi Wines. —A.K. a second sip. Balanced Wine Selections LLC. —A.K.
beer for an afternoon on the lake or a sunset drink abv: 12.5% Price: $25 abv: 12.5% Price: $35
before dinner.
abv: 6% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack
92 Geyerhof 2019 Wild Wux Grüner Veltliner
(Kremstal). Notes of moss, earth and pear
on the nose immediately attain a pithy depth on the
92 Unger 2019 Hintere Point Grüner Veltliner
(Kremstal). Subtle notes of Mirabelle join the
fresher notions of lemon and green pear on the nose.
rounded, concentrated palate. Textured freshness is The palate then combines zesty citrus freshness with
bound up with the mouthfeel and it is on the fin- salty, miso-like, yeasty savoriness on the taut but
ish that zesty lemon shines through while the salty concentrated body. This is lovely, dry and resonant.
yeastiness highlights pith and apple notes. Danch and Vin de Garde Wines. Best Buy. —A.K.
Granger Selection. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $15
abv: 13.5% Price: $32
92 Gruber Röschitz 2019 Grüner Veltliner (Wein-

viertel). Vivid green apple notes pervade the
92 Wutzl 2019 Ried Steinsetz Grüner Veltliner
(Kamptal). Yeast and lemon play along a cer-
tain fragrant creaminess on the nose. It is the vivid
riper pear notes on the nose with total freshness. lemon that takes center stage on the taut, fresh and
92 Anderson Valley Poleeko Pale Ale (American

Pale Ale; Anderson Valley Brewing Co., CA).
This is a brewery that has been making pale ales
The palate holds this freshness and uses it to frame
the savory, yeasty, salty core of this slender, snappy
wine. It delivers tons of flavor in a compact package.
vivid palate, still underpinned by that lovely sense of
creaminess. Consortium & Spirits LLC. —A.K.
abv: 12.5% Price: $17
since the beginning and knows what its custom- Deutsch Family Wine and Spirits. Best Buy. —A.K.
ers want. It has a soft, welcoming sweet-malt body abv: 12.5% Price: $15
that’s accented by scorched sugar. Classic bittering
hops give it a steady stream of fresh pine. It’s a beer
you want after a long hike in the woods.
92 Johann Donabaum 2019 Johann Grüner Velt-
liner Federspiel (Wachau). Green pear, fresh
WINEMAG.COM | 111
BUYINGGUIDE
freshness combine on the nose. The palate also jug- riper fruit like melon and yellow plum to round
RIESLING gles these aromas with aplomb, resulting in a joy- everything out and create an aromatic balance on this
ous, light, dry and wonderfully pure-fruited Ries- zingy, dry summer wine. Vignaioli Selection. —A.K.
94 Markus Huber 2019 Engelsberg Riesling

(Traisental). Notions of both lemon zest
ling. Refreshment is guaranteed. Siema LLC. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $19
abv: 12% Price: $17
and lemon foliage signal freshness and perfume. The

light palate continues with the citrus theme and
presents gorgeous lemon brightness and zesty con- 92 Nigl 2019 Piri Riesling (Kremstal). Floral,
lemony brightness jumps from the glass like
88 Netzl 2019 Muskatina Gelber Muskateller
(Niederösterreich). Elderflower and mint
shoot an aromatic cloud from the nose. The palate
centration. At the heart of this is ripest, sunniest a message from summer itself. The slender palate adds vivid, zesty, ripe lemon notes to this to round it
Amalfi lemon, presented in a beguiling, sylph-like brims with ripe Amalfi lemon and juicy verve on a out and counterbalance the headiness. This is lively,
package. The finish is dry, long and pure. Broadbent bright, light, pure body that enlivens and refreshes. light, vivid and dry. KWSelection.com. —A.K.
Selections, Inc. —A.K. A pithy, spicy element makes for a zesty finish. abv: 11.5% Price: $20
abv: 12.5% Price: $25 Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $37
LOIRE VALLEY
94 Pichler-Krutzler 2019 In der Wand Riesling
(Wachau). A hint of creaminess creeps deli-
ciously into the orange zest notes on the nose. The GELBER MUSKATELLER MUSCADET SÈVRE ET MAINE
palate comes on light feet but is vibrant with zesty
notes of ripe orange and Amalfi lemon. The body is
slender but concentrated, almost fizzing with ripe
and utterly fresh zestiness. The finish is clean, taut
92 Neumeister 2019 Gelber Muskateller (Vul-
kanland Steiermark). Fresh lemon zest,
honeysuckle and a hint of elderflower make for a
93 Lieubeau 2017 Cru Goulaine (Muscadet Sèvre
et Maine). From one of the designated cru
villages, this wine is ripe with maturity. That gives
and dry with lasting, mouthwatering citrus. Drink fresh and appetizing nose. The light palate has a the wine a rich, nutty character as well as hints of
by 2040. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. gentle spritz and presents incredible freshness and yellow fruits and a soft final texture. This concen-
abv: 12.5% Price: $36 aroma for such finesse. Frederick Wildman & Sons, trated wine is ready to drink. Organic. European
Ltd. —A.K. Cellars. —R.V.
94 Pichler-Krutzler 2019 Ried Pfaffenberg Ries-

ling (Kremstal). A lovely hint of potentilla
crushed on sunwarmed stone plays on the nose

before ripe lemon zest kicks in. The palate is concen-
trated and comes with pithy, textured depth from
92 Tement 2019 Gelber Muskateller (Südstei-
ermark). A kind of creamy grapefruit and
white blossom perfume is subtle and intriguing on
92 Lieubeau 2019 Domaine de la Fruitière
Gneiss de Bel Abord Sur Lie (Muscadet Sèvre
et Maine). Intense with acidity and citrus flavors,
which a deep, lemony ripe juiciness springs. This is the nose. The palate is exquisitely light, lemony and this concentrated wine shows freshness and tight
mouthwatering and pure, with a textural complex- bright, softly scented with white summer blossom fruitiness. Lemon dominates the flavors although
ity that suggests that this will evolve and show more and citrus peel. Just like the nose, the body has a the wine has ripeness. This organic wine is ready to
of its herbal side. The finish is dry and impressive. touch of creaminess from its yeasty texture. The fin- drink. European Cellars. —R.V.
Drink now–2035. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. ish is dry, vivid and pure. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $20
93 Geyerhof 2019 Ried Sprinzenberg Riesling

(Kremstal). Fresh notes of lemon and citrus 91 Nigl 2019 Gelber Muskateller (Niederöster-
reich). A touch of freshly cut grass, a hint of
92 Sauvion 2016 Château du Cléray Cru Vallet
(Muscadet Sèvre et Maine). One of the new
wave of cru wines from Muscadet, this has been
zest dance on the nose. That same, sprightly citrus nettle and ripe Amalfi lemon notes combine into aged before bottling, giving it richness beyond a
dance is also apparent on the light, vivid and utterly a fresh, appetizing nose. The lemon juiciness then normal Muscadet. Ripe apple and acidity softened
lemon-scented body. This is dry, vibrant, refreshing takes centre stage on the ripe but light palate, swing- by aging make for a wine that is ripe, fruity and
and gloriusly expressive. The dry finish is mouthwa- ing with freshness, juiciness and verve. The finish still fresh but with extra concentration. Drink now.
tering and long. Danch and Granger Selection. —A.K. is bone dry and scented. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. Advantage International. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $34 abv: 11.5% Price: $23 abv: 12% Price: $20
92 Eichinger 2019 Strass Riesling (Kamptal).

Crushed wild thyme blends in with the vivid
lemon notes on the nose. The palate then presents
91 Wutzl 2019 Ried Spiegel Gelber Muskateller
(Niederösterreich). Scented summer blossom
notes rise gently from the glass. On the palate they
92 Véronique Günther-Chereau 2019 Domaine
de la Bournaire Sur Lie (Muscadet Sèvre et
Maine). From a terroir of black volcanic soil, this
bright, ripe, tart and juicy lemon notes in full flow. are joined by vivid citrus flavors, combining ripe, wine is beautifully balanced, ripe with orange and
This is taut and vivid, concentrated yet slender, bright lemon, zesty and tart tangerine and riper lemon zestiness. Poise comes from intense acidity
mouthwatering and totally refreshing. The dry fin- mandarine. All this happens on a light, dry, vivid allied to the crisp texture. Drink this vibrant organic
ish is lasting and lemony. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. body and is supported by just a little spritz. Consor- wine now. Vintage Wine Marketing. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $21 tium & Spirits LLC. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $21
abv: 12% Price: $20
92 Ingrid Groiss 2019 Braitenpuechtorff Ries-

ling (Niederösterreich). Fresh lemon zest on
the appetizing nose holds a promise of something 89 Gross & Gross 2019 Mitzi Gelber Muskateller
(Südsteiermark). Nettle and elderflower
91 Bedouet 2017 Le Pallet (Muscadet Sèvre et
Maine). This wine comes from Le Pallet, one
of the new cru areas in Muscadet. Aged for three
rounder and riper. The palate duly obliges with ripe aromas on the nose have the most lovely tinge of years, it has a depth and richness that exemplifies
orange zest and juicy Mirabelle plum, still caught on lemon. The palate is light and aromatic, enlivened the new approach in the region. With apple as well
that lemon zestiness bur radiating ripeness and fill. by slight spritz and just made for summer with its as lime flavors, the wine is ready to drink. T. Elen-
The body is slender, the finish is dry, the wine is dry, refreshing finish. Schatzi Wines. —A.K. teny Imports. —R.V.
beyond appetizing. Circo Vino. —A.K. abv: 11% Price: $19 abv: 12% Price: $NA
abv: 12.5% Price: $20
92 Josef Bauer 2019 Feuersbrunn Riesling

(Wagram). Peachy roundness and lemon
89 Kohl 2019 Gelber Muskateller (Weinviertel).
Heady elderflower blossom on the nose is
spiked with zesty citrus. The palate adds rounded,

91 Domaine Salmon 2019 Grande Réserve Sur Lie
(Muscadet Sèvre et Maine). For full review
see page 102.
fruitiness. Drink this attractive wine now. Mon-
taigne Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12% Price: $20
late 2020 or, better, from spring 2021. Wineberry
America LLC. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12% Price: $15
abv: 12% Price: $17
91 Lieubeau 2019 Confluent Château d’Aulnaye

Sur Lie (Muscadet Sèvre et Maine). Named
90 Sauvion 2019 Château du Cléray Haute
Culture Sur Lie (Muscadet Sèvre et Maine).
From a showpiece estate in Muscadet, this wine is
89 Ollivier Frères 2019 Domaine de la Gren-
audière La Grenouille Sur Lie (Muscadet
Sèvre et Maine). Fresh, crisp and bright with cit-
after the confluence of the Sèvre and the Maine riv- crisp while gentle, full of acidity and white fruits. rus and a touch of saltiness, this wine has a bite of
ers, this single-estate organic wine has refreshing The rounded texture contrasts with the final burst acidity. There is some richness in the grapefruit and
green-apple fruits balanced by lemon acidity and a of freshness. Drink now. Advantage International. lime fruits and the mineral aftertaste. Drink now.
tight, mineral edge. The wine is still young, better Best Buy. —R.V. The Wine Source. —R.V.
from late 2020 or 2021. European Cellars. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 abv: 12% Price: $16
abv: 12% Price: $25
91 Véronique Günther-Chereau 2019 Coing de

Sèvre Sur Lie (Muscadet Sèvre et Maine). A
90 Véronique Günther-Chereau 2019 Grand Fief
de la Cormeraie Sur Lie (Muscadet Sèvre et
Maine). A tight, tangy mineral-driven wine, this is
88 Domaine des Tilleuls 2019 Essentielle Sur
Lie (Muscadet Sèvre et Maine). This wine
is fresh, textured while also packed with ripeness.
crisply fruity wine, this also has a zesty mineral still young, packed with zesty fruits. It will develop Bright acidity shines through the mineral edge
texture. Freshness is tempered by the baked-apple richness as well as a depth of ripe apple and lime and touch of salinity. Green and citrus fruits are
ripeness of the fruit that contrasts with the acidity. flavors. Drink this wine from 2021. Organic. Bar- right there in the aftertaste. Drink now. Montaigne
Drink now. Williams Corner Wine. —R.V. rique Imports. —R.V. Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12% Price: $16 abv: 12% Price: $18 abv: 12% Price: $14
90 Domaine des Tilleuls 2019 Les Vénérables

Vieilles Vignes Sur Lie (Muscadet Sèvre et
Maine). Crisp and with a comfortable blend of apple
90 Véronique Günther-Chereau 2019 Les Gre-
niers du Moulin Sur Lie (Muscadet Sèvre et
Maine). Tight, fresh and crisp, this is a strongly
88 Domaine Salmon 2019 Vieilles Vignes Sur Lie
(Muscadet Sèvre et Maine). This beautifully
proportioned wine offers tangy acidity balanced
and citrus flavors, this is a light and poised wine. citrus-driven wine. With its mineral edge and against tight citrus flavors and youthful fruitiness.
The old vines give concentration and a heightened enhanced acidity, it needs further aging. Drink from Light and bright, the wine just needs a month or so
Anthony Beckman
Winemaker since 2007
Jacqueline Balletto
DTC Manager
Estate Grown • Estate Bottle • Sonoma County • ballettovineyards.com
WINEMAG.COM | 113
BUYINGGUIDE
for its intense fruitiness to calm down. Drink from
late 2020. Vinovia Wine Group. —R.V.
abv: 12% Price: $15
89 Jérôme Choblet 2019 Clos de la Fine Sur Lie
(Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu). Muscadet
with this level of alcohol is unheard of and is a result
lent lineup of Tavel bottlings. It’s weighty and
concentrated yet always invigorating, packed with
crisp-tart blackberry and black-cherry flavors
of spring frost’s low yields and a hot summer. Even marked by complexities of bramble, garrigue and
88 Ollivier Frères 2019 Domaine de l’Olivier Sur

Lie (Muscadet Sèvre et Maine). This wine’s
fruitiness has been softened by the ripeness that
so, the wine manages to retain some freshness and
adds a more apricot-fruit flavor to this rich wine.
Drink from late 2020. Fine Vines. —R.V.
earth. A wine worth drinking beyond the summer
months, it should fare beautifully through 2023.
Kobrand. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
gives apple as well as citrus flavors. Acidity brings abv: 14% Price: $16 abv: 14.5% Price: $22
in the essential freshness and gives a bright lift and
a crisp aftertaste. Drink now. Gabriella Fine Wines.
Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12% Price: $13
88 Domaine du Haut Bourg 2019 Pavillon de
Haut Bourg Sur Lie (Muscadet Côtes de
Grandlieu). From vineyards around the Grand-
Rousse (Tavel). For full review see page 97.
Editors’ Choice.
Lieu lake, this wine comes from a single parcel of abv: 14.5% Price: $36
88 Véronique Günther-Chereau 2019 Château

du Coing St Fiacre Sur Lie (Muscadet Sèvre et
Maine). This easy, fruity wine has bright acidity and
40-year-old vines. Crisply textured and with the
freshest acidity, the wine has a touch of pepper
before finishing with bright acidity. Drink now. 91 Alain Jaume et Fils 2019 Le Crétacé Rosé
(Tavel). Freshly picked red cherries and
an open texture. It is crisply full of green-plum and Polaner Selections. —R.V. strawberries are etched by tangs of salt and crushed
white-currant acidity that gives both ripeness and abv: 12% Price: $18 mineral in this vibrant blend of Grenache, Syrah
freshness. Drink now. Gasko & Meyer. —R.V. and Mourvèdre. Full bodied but spirited, it’s a zesty
abv: 12.5% Price: $16
88 Domaine du Haut Bourg 2019 Sur Lie (Mus-
cadet Côtes de Grandlieu). This ripe and
Tavel that’s quaffable by the pool but solid enough
to accompany grilled lamb or beef. Kysela Père et
87 Ollivier Frères 2019 Domaine de la Gren-

audière Sur Lie (Muscadet Sèvre et Maine).
The Ollivier family estate has produced this ripe
warm wine has creamed-apple and pear flavors
allied to a fresh and tangy texture. The crispness
comes through slowly, leaving a bright, perfumed
Fils. —A.I.
abv: 14.5% Price: $20
style of Muscadet. It has crisp, tangy acidity as well

as concentrated lemon and pink-grapefruit flavors.
The wine is ready to drink. Misa Imports. —R.V.
final acidity. Drink now. Polaner Selections. —R.V.
abv: 12% Price: $15 91 Cellier des Chartreux 2019 Domaine Les
Hautes Roches Rosé (Tavel). Mouthwatering
notes of raspberries, wild strawberry and water-
abv: 12% Price: $15
88 Jérôme Choblet 2019 Domaine des
Herbauges La Roche Blanche Sur Lie (Musca-
melon introduce this joyously fruity 70–30 blend
of Grenache and Syrah. It’s a scintillating, primary
87 Véronique Günther-Chereau 2019 Château de

la Gravelle Sur Lie (Muscadet Sèvre et Maine).
This soft, open wine offers ripe red apple and can-
det Côtes de Grandlieu). From a vineyard with schist
and flint soils, this wine expresses a strong min-
eral character. It is unusually rich for a Muscadet,
expression of Tavel that maintains an elegant min-
eral undertow and a fine fringe of tannins that lin-
gers on the finish. At peak now, the wine should hold
teloupe melon flavors. Zesty and full of fruit, it is although the white-fruit flavor retains minerality nicely through 2021. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.I.
ready to drink. Organic. AP Wine Imports. —R.V. and tautness. Drink now. Fine Vines. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $30
MUSCADET CÔTES 88 Jérôme Choblet 2019 Le Chant Baron Sur Lie

(Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu). In a range of
90 Château de Ségriès 2019 Rosé (Tavel). The
mouthwatering perfumes of wild straw-
berry and sour cherry introduce this big blend of
DE GRANDLIEU high-alcohol Muscadets from 2019, this wine has Grenache, Cinsault, Clairette and Syrah. It’s a rich,
kept great freshness to balance its richness. Apples concentrated rosé packed with sunny red-fruit fla-
92 Jérôme Choblet 2019 Fief Guérin Vieilles

Vignes Sur Lie (Muscadet Côtes de Grand-
lieu). From a single parcel of vines that are 50 to 80
and bright citrus sustain the ripe character of this
single-parcel wine. Drink from late 2020. Lanterna
Distributors Inc. —R.V.
vors and warmed by hints of burnt caramel, dried
thyme and cinnamon. Ideal year round with any-
thing from fish to lamb chops, it should drink well
years old, this wine is exotic, ripe and floral. Rich- abv: 14% Price: $18 through 2022. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I.
ness is mitigated by the mineral edge and tight acid- abv: 14.5% Price: $26
ity. Drink this ripe, full wine from 2021. Lanterna
RHÔNE VALLEY
Distributors Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $21 90 Domaine Maby 2019 Prima Donna Rosé
(Tavel). Fiery notes of peppercorn and char
ROSÉS introduce this piquant blend of Cinsault (60%) and
91 Domaine du Haut Bourg 2010 Origine de Haut

Bourg (Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu). After
tasting this remarkable wine, who can doubt that
TAVEL
Grenache (40%). Blackberry and plum flavors are
crisply concentrated on the palate and shaded by
savory plumes of smoke and char. It’s perfect for
Muscadet can age? It is beautifully perfumed, still
with creamed-apple fruit plus touches of nuts and
plenty of tangy acidity. It has no sign of age, just
94 Domaine de la Mordorée 2019 La Reine des
Bois Rosé (Tavel). Intensely fruity yet fas-
cinatingly complex, La Reine des Bois consistently
lovers of spicy red wines or as an accompaniment to
steak or game. DB Wine Selection. —A.I.
abv: 14.5% Price: $20
extra richness. Drink now. Polaner Selections. —R.V. reigns as one of the best wines from Tavel. This vin-
abv: 12% Price: $25 tage offers profound, mouthwatering black-cherry
and cassis flavors accented by strikes of crushed 89 Domaine Maby 2018 Libiamo Rosé (Tavel).
Plumes of char, smoke and singed vanilla
90 Domaine du Haut Bourg 2014 Signature de

Haut Bourg (Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu).
Produced from old vines, this wine is now mature
stone and sizzling black spice. It’s lush and vel-
vety through a long, delicately tannic finish. Lovely
already, the wine will drink beautifully through
bean envelop black cherry and plum in this pro-
foundly oaky blend of red and white Grenache. Full
bodied and almost warming on the palate, it’s a
while certainly not old. With its concentration, the 2023. Kysela Père et Fils. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. spicy year-round rosé that should stand up nicely
wine has depth of flavor as well as touches of spice abv: 14.5% Price: $45 to barbecue or steak, and may actually improve
and almonds coming through the acidity. Drink this through 2023. DB Wine Selection. —A.I.
wine now. Polaner Selections. —R.V.
abv: 12% Price: $20 93 Château d’Aqueria 2019 Rosé (Tavel). Year
after year, this mouthwatering rosé is an
approachably priced, stand-out pick amid an excel-
abv: 14.5% Price: $29

wild strawberry flavors in this wine. Pale pink in aided berry flavors run long on the finish. Drink or
OTHER ROSÉS hue, it’s a silky, full-bodied rosé that drinks smartly hold; this will be best come 2023. Aviva Vino. —M.S.
as an aperitif or an accompaniment to seafood. It’s abv: 15% Price: $50
92 Domaine de la Citadelle 2019 Les Artemes

Rosé (Luberon). A rare Mourvèdre-dom-
inant rosé blended with Grenache and Syrah, this
at peak now. Purple Wine+Spirits. —A.I.
abv: 13.5% Price: $15
92 Portia 2018 Prima (Ribera del Duero). A
warm balsamic essence along with dark
richly concentrated sip offers concentrated rasp- plum and berry scents push the nose on this Tinto
berry and red-plum flavors. More than just a pool- SPAIN Fino. Scrubbing tannins are out front on a healthy
side quaffer, this substantial, mouth-filling rosé palate, while this pops with dark berry flavors and
should appeal to lovers of crisp red wines. Delightful RED WINES toasty oak. A steady finish shows power and youth-
now, it should drink beautifully well past the sum- ful energy, so drink now or hold through 2030.
mer. Aufinity Imports Co. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. RIBERA DEL DUERO Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits. —M.S.

Rousse Rosé (Côtes du Rhône). This
93 Cillar de Silos 2016 Torresilo (Ribera del
Duero). Upfront toasty oak gives this a
lemony aromatic note that transitions to char. A 92 Tr3smano 2016 Ribera del Duero. Grainy oak
aromas lend aged cheese and balsamic notes
intensely plummy, black-fruited rosé offers a fan- pulpy palate is packed with fruit, while this tastes to the nose, while this feels fresh, tough and tight.
tastic, well-priced alternative to this producer’s of blackened oak along with ripe berry fruits and Charred oak and related toast notes back cherry,
increasingly expensive flagship Tavel. A full-bodied, wood spice. Spice notes are maintained on a dry plum and cassis flavors, while this is long and
voluminous blend of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault, finish with lasting oak. Drink through 2030. Torgar steady on a seamless finish. Best 2021–2027. Axial
it’s luminous and concentrated but freshly balanced Group. —M.S. Vinos USA. Cellar Selection. —M.S.
by strikes of cut stone and salt. Drink now through abv: 14% Price: $50 abv: 14.5% Price: $63
2021. Kysela Père et Fils. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 14% Price: $24
92 Dominio de Atauta 2016 Ribera del Duero.
Inviting plum and berry aromas are sup- 91 Valduero 2016 Ribera del Duero. Ripe berry
aromas drift in the direction of prune and
91 Domaine de la Citadelle 2019 Le Chataignier

Rosé (Luberon). Rose petals and wild mint
perfume juicy strawberry and watermelon in this
ported by oak and dusty earth notes, while this is
ripe (15% abv) and generous on the palate, with a
healthy blend of grainy tannins and acidity. Oak-
raisin, while this is hot and slightly edgy on the pal-
ate. Black plum and cassis flavors come with choco-
laty oak before this hollows out on the finish. Drink
full-bodied but zesty blend of Grenache, Cinsault through 2028. Vinaio Imports. —M.S.
and Syrah. A pretty salmon color in the glass, it’s a abv: 14% Price: $36
juicy, pristinely fruity sip that finishes on peppery
hits of spice and tannin. This versatile rosé carries
seamlessly from aperitifs through dinner. Aufinity
Imports Co. —A.I.
abv: 14% Price: $22
90 Cellier des Chartreux 2019 Chevalier

d’Anthelme Rosé (Côtes du Rhône). Invit-
Great wine should
ing whiffs of white peach and watermelon intro-
be celebrated.
4PIEWIIRNS]SYV[MRIWVIWTSRWMFP]ĀþĀþ0YRE2YHE;MRIW
duce this exuberantly fresh, fruity rosé. Full bodied

but briskly balanced, it’s a joyous summer sip best
enjoyed while its plush, perfumed fruit stays intact.
Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 13.5% Price: $18
Visit LunaNuda.com
90 Château Saint Cyrgues 2019 Rosé (Costières

de Nîmes). Perfumed whiffs of white peach,
apricot and raspberry meld into juicy strawberry
and watermelon on the palate of this luscious,
intensely fruity rosé. A richly textured, expansive
sip anchored by a zesty mineral undertow, it’s at
peak now. Shiverick Imports. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 14.1% Price: $13
90 M. Chapoutier 2019 Belleruche Rosé (Côtes

du Rhône). Salty mineral notes and a pleas-
ant tickle of spritz introduce this zesty, full-bodied
blend of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault. Salmon-
pink in hue, it offers juicy sour-cherry and wild
strawberry flavors balanced freshly by a cutting
red-currant lift. An ideal summer aperitif, it’s at
peak now. Terlato Wines International. —A.I.
abv: 13.5% Price: $17
89 Vignobles et Compagnie 2019 Antiquus Rosé

(Costières de Nîmes). Sea spray and cut
stone lend freshness to delicate white peach and
WINEMAG.COM | 115
BUYINGGUIDE
not lost on a finish with mild heat. Drink through flavors go the distance on an energetic finish. Drink
RIOJA 2023. Jorge Ordóñez Selections. —M.S. through 2025. First Growth Brands. —M.S.
98 Bodegas Roda 2016 Cirsion (Rioja). Lush

black fruit aromas push the limits of ripe-
ness but pull back to show additional complexity, 92 Viña Leizaola 2016 Caminos De Sacramento
(Rioja). Pure berry fruit aromas are classy BAROLO
depth and potential for midterm aging. Saucy acid- from the start. On the palate, this is smooth and
ity is perfect for a big-boned red like this. Black easy, not hard, tannic or demanding. Black plum, 2016 VINTAGE
plum, cassis and berry flavors are lightly herbal currant and oaky vanilla flavors finish with mod-
and savory, while this high flyer is impressively bal-
anced to the end. Simply put: This is a spectacu-
lar modern Rioja to enjoy through 2030. Valkyrie
erate acidity, freshness and snap. Drink this tasty
Rioja through 2025. W. Direct. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $48
100 Brovia 2016 Brea Vigna Ca’ Mia (Barolo).
Rose, pine forest, wild berry, new leather
and star anise are just some of the aromas you’ll find
Selections. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. on this drop-dead gorgeous wine. Firmly structured,
abv: 14.5% Price: $330
91 Bodegas Leza García 2016 LG (Rioja). Berry
and cassis aromas are supported by vanilla
elegant and thoroughly delicious, the radiant palate
shows restraint and depth. It delivers juicy Marasca
96 Muga 2011 Prado Enea Gran Reserva (Rioja).

Earthy plum and berry aromas set up a pal-
ate with plush tannins and multiple layers of depth.
and oak grain scents, while this is made lively by
lemony acidity. A full spectrum of flavors ranges
from red plum and currant to wild berry, while oak
cherry, raspberry compote, licorice and tobacco
against tightly knit, noble tannins while fresh acid-
ity keeps it impeccably balanced. It’s focused and
Befitting a hot year like 2011, dark berry and plum comes in later on and controls a finish with vanilla, compelling, but hold for even more complexity.
flavors are a bit gritty, while this exhibits fine shape salt and dill notes. Drink through 2023. Schlos- An absolutely stellar showing. Drink 2026–2056.
on the finish and only gets better the longer it sits. sadler Inc. —M.S. Rosenthal Wine Merchant. Cellar Selection. —K.O.
Doubtless this is a delicious Rioja, maybe not the abv: 14% Price: $45 abv: 14.5% Price: $106
most complex Prado Enea of all time, but still a spe-
cial wine from one of Spain’s best wineries. Decant
if drinking now. Enjoy through 2035. Jorge Ordóñez
Selections. Cellar Selection. —M.S.
91 Finca Valpiedra 2016 Petra de Valpiedra Gar-
nacha (Rioja). Exotic spice aromas add com-
plexity to fresh raspberry and plum scents. This
100 Giovanni Rosso 2016 Ester Canale Rosso
Poderi dell’Antica VignaRionda (Barolo).
For full review see page 91. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14% Price: $95 medium-bodied Garnacha pumps out red berry abv: 14% Price: $450
flavors matched by delicate spice notes. A solid
95 Marqués de Murrieta 2016 Dalmau (Rioja).

A fully ripe nose runs deep with balsamic
black fruit aromas as well as complex notes of
finish exhibits grip and intensity but also a sense
of elegance. This is refined and doesn’t overpower
or bulldoze. Drink through 2022. MundoVino–
99 Brovia 2016 Garblèt Suè (Barolo). Wild
berry, iris, menthol, star anise and new
leather aromas follow over to the precise, full-bod-
graphite and fine oak. A plush palate offers that Winebow. —M.S. ied palate along with juicy cherry, raspberry com-
elusive depth of character that great wines dis- abv: 13.5% Price: $65 pote and tobacco. Boasting elegance and structure
play, while this modern-style Rioja tastes of black in equal measure, it has taut refined tannins and
fruits as well as chocolate. A silky smooth finish
shows barely any grit or bite. Drink now through
2028. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. Editors’
91 Montecillo 2011 Gran Reserva (Rioja). Smooth
plum and berry aromas are easy to appreci-
ate, while this feels really good on the palate due to
fresh acidity that will give this decades of drink-
ing pleasure. Drink 2026–2056. Rosenthal Wine
Merchant. —K.O.
Choice. —M.S. a comfortable interplay between lushness and last- abv: 14.5% Price: $92
abv: 14.5% Price: $90 ing acidity. Plum, berry fruit and oak spice flavors
94 Bodegas Landaluce 2016 Capricho de Lan-

daluce (Rioja). Tight, oaky blackberry and
run long on a healthy finish. Drink through 2029.
Evaton, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $35
99 Brovia 2016 Villero (Barolo). Fragrant,
structured and loaded with finesse, this
radiant red has enticing scents of pressed rose,
black olive aromas include a note of asphalt in front woodland berry, moist earth and camphor. Full
of a thick, dense palate that shows acidic cut and
fine overall balance. Savory oak flavors are grainy on
top of black fruit and coffee flavors. On the finish,
91 Obalo 2015 Reserva (Rioja). Ripe berry aro-
mas come with notes of licorice root, dark
chocolate and baking spices. The palate on this
bodied but boasting a weightless elegance, the chis-
eled palate has depth, focus and tension, delivering
juicy red cherry, strawberry compote, licorice and
this tastes of toast, vanilla and butter. Best 2022– warm-year reserva is packed with jammy weight crushed mint. Firm refined tannins and vibrant
2032. Palette of Wines. Cellar Selection. —M.S. and smooth tannins, while this tastes of blackberry, acidity provide impeccable balance and an age-
abv: 14.5% Price: $38 prune and toasty oak. Apropos for a ripe Tempra- worthy structure. Drink 2026–2046. Rosenthal
nillo, this is full on the finish. Aviva Vino. —M.S. Wine Merchant. Cellar Selection. —K.O.
92 Montecillo 2011 22 Barricas Gran Reserva

(Rioja). Earthy berry and plum aromas come
across as mature but not old, with meaty accents.

The palate on this barrel-selected gran reserva is
layered and filled out by generous tannins. Flavors
90 Marqués de Vargas 2015 Reserva (Rioja).
Deep berry, prune and maple aromas are
warm and balsamic as they border on overripe. A
99 Cavallotto 2016 Bricco Boschis (Barolo).
Aromas of woodland berry, underbrush,
hazelnut and camphor form the nose along with
of prune, raisin, cassis and blueberry are filled out thick, creamy palate reflects a hot vintage, while a whiff of rose petal on this captivating, delicious
well by oak tones, but not overpowered. This warm- this reserva tastes chocolaty, with herbal berry fruit wine. The full-bodied structured palate is still
vintage gran reserva feels smooth on the finish; and spice notes. A round, almost sticky finish is young and primary but already shows raspberry
drink through 2028. Evaton, Inc. —M.S. built on grabby tannins. This is a very full and ripe compote, ripe Marasca cherry, star anise, tobacco
abv: 13.5% Price: $40 Rioja. Torgar Group. —M.S. and the barest hint of game. Tightly knit noble tan-
abv: 14% Price: $25 nins and fresh acidity provide the firm frame and
92 Muga 2015 Reserva Unfiltered (Rioja).

Earthy black fruit aromas are warm and
ripe. Befitting a reserva from a hot year like 2015, 90 Rioja Vega 2011 Reserva 135 Anniversario
(Rioja). A full, ripe nose comes with raisin
impart serious aging potential. Hold for even more
complexity. Drink 2026–2056. Skurnik Wines, Inc.
Cellar Selection. —K.O.
this is big-bodied and flush, with flavors of toasty and berry notes, while this warm-year gran reserva abv: 14.5% Price: $90
oak, chocolate and mixed berry fruits. Ripeness is is braced with high acidity that creates freshness
and rip on the palate. Raspberry, plum and mild oak

99 Comm. G. B. Burlotto 2016 Monvigliero
(Barolo). Aromas of rose, red berry, dark
spice, smoke and wild herb shape the nose on this
tured palate delivers ripe Marasca cherry, crushed
raspberry, licorice and tobacco framed in firm fine-
grained tannins. Fresh acidity provides impeccable
97 Bruna Grimaldi 2016 Badarina (Barolo).
Woodland-berry, eucalyptus, star anise
and new leather aromas are front and center on
structured red. Intense and loaded with finesse, the balance and aging potential. Drink 2024–2036. this radiant red. Firmly structured, the youthfully
radiant, focused palate doles out ripe red cherry, Ionia Atlantic Imports, LLC. Cellar Selection. —K.O. austere palate shows Marasca cherry, strawberry
cranberry, licorice, tobacco and menthol. Vibrant abv: 14.5% Price: $120 compote and licorice accompanied by assertive,
acidity and a mineral vein create youthful tension fine-grained tannins that need a few more years to
while firm polished tannins lend seamless support.
Drink 2024–2046. Bacchanal Wine Imports. Cellar
Selection. —K.O.
98 Sandrone 2016 Le Vigne (Barolo). Fragrant,
full bodied and boasting great finesse, this
delicious Barolo hits all the right buttons. It opens
fully unwind. Fresh acidity keeps it well balanced
and lends great aging potential. Drink 2026–2056.
Massanois Imports. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $100 with enticing aromas of woodland berry, rose, abv: 14.5% Price: $90
camphor, botanical herb and exotic spice while
99 Elvio Cogno 2016 Ravera (Barolo). From the

estate that proved the extraordinary quality
of the Ravera subzone, this compelling wine opens
the elegantly structured palate doles out juicy red
cherry, crushed raspberry, licorice and cinnamon.
Firm, fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity keep it
97 Comm. G. B. Burlotto 2016 Acclivi (Barolo).
Enticingly fragrant, this radiant red opens
with aromas of wild red berry, botanical herb, rose
with heady scents of rose, iris, perfumed berry, new impeccably balanced. It’s already tempting but hold and smoky flint. Vibrant and savory, the chiseled
leather and camphor. Focused and full bodied, the for even more complexity. Drink 2024–2046. Vin- palate delivers strawberry compote, pomegranate,
precise palate is delicious and firmly structured, tus LLC. Cellar Selection. —K.O. thyme and licorice before an energizing orange-
featuring ripe red cherry, crushed raspberry, lico- abv: 14.5% Price: $155 zest close. Taut fine-grained tannins and racy acid-
rice and tobacco framed in tightly knit fine-grained ity lend balance and age-worthy structure. Drink
tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it beautifully balanced
and lends youthful tension. Drink 2024–2056.
Wilson Daniels Ltd. Cellar Selection. —K.O.
97 Brandini 2016 R56 (Barolo). Scents of rose,
menthol, sandalwood and crushed cherry
shape the enticing nose on this focused, fragrant
2026–2046. Bacchanal Wine Imports. Cellar
Selection. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $89
abv: 14.5% Price: $112 wine. Elegantly structured and delicious, the vibrant
99 Gaja 2016 Sperss (Barolo). Rose, iris, red

berry and camphor mingle with a whiff
palate delivers strawberry compote, orange zest and
licorice framed in taut refined tannins. Drink 2024–
2036. USA Wine West. Cellar Selection. —K.O.
97 Elio Grasso 2016 Gaverini (Barolo). This
fantastic, focused red opens with entic-
ing scents of rose, woodland berry, forest floor
of dark spice on this gorgeous, radiant red. Firmly abv: 14.5% Price: $80 and a balsamic whiff of camphor. It’s full bodied
structured but also boasting extraordinary finesse, and elegantly structured, delivering flavors of ripe
the chiseled palate delivers ripe morello cherry, morello cherry, raspberry compote, cinnamon and
crushed raspberry, star anise and tobacco set against
a backbone of taut fine-grained tannins. Vibrant
acidity keeps it well balanced and energized. Drink
2024–2046. Terlato Wines International. Cellar
Selection. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $NA
98 Brovia 2016 Rocche di Castiglione (Barolo).

Camphor, rose, red-berry and star anise
aromas slowly take shape on this compelling, gor-
geous red. Delicious, elegant and structured, the
palate has youthful tension but already shows fan-
tastic depth, delivering juicy Marasca cherry, rasp-
berry compote, licorice and clove before closing on a
hazelnut note. Firm refined tannins keep it perfectly
balanced and give it an age-worthy structure. Drink
2026–2046. Rosenthal Wine Merchant. Cellar
Selection. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $106
98 Comm. G. B. Burlotto 2016 Barolo. Another

fragrant, drop-dead gorgeous wine from
this fantastic estate, this opens with enticing scents
of wild rose, red berry, baking spice and a whiff of
smoke. Showing the hallmark finesse of Verduno,
the smooth, delicious palate features juicy Marasca
cherry, raspberry compote, licorice and flinty min-
eral framed in taut, refined tannins. Bright acidity
keeps it youthfully tense and impeccably balanced.
Drink 2024–2036. Bacchanal Wine Imports. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $60
98 Figli Luigi Oddero 2016 Rocche Rivera

(Barolo). New leather, pressed rose, under-
brush, dark spice and camphor are just some of the
aromas you’ll find on this extraordinary red. Full
bodied, with depth and finesse, the elegant, struc-
WINEMAG.COM | 117
BUYINGGUIDE
licorice before a hazelnut close. Firm fine-grained
tannins and fresh acidity provide the framework.
Drink 2024–2046. Tenzing Wine and Spirits. Cel-
97 Sandrone 2016 Aleste (Barolo). Dark berry,
exotic spice, blue-flower and menthol aro-
mas take shape on this fragrant red. Full bodied and
It’s classically crafted, full bodied and loaded with
finesse, delivering juicy red cherry, crushed rasp-
berry, mint and star anise set against taut refined
lar Selection. —K.O. loaded with finesse, the firm palate doles out juicy tannins. It’s nicely balanced, with bright acidity and
abv: 14.5% Price: $NA morello cherry, raspberry compote, licorice and youthful tension. Drink 2022–2031. Ionia Atlantic
hints of French oak alongside firm fine-grained tan- Imports, LLC. —K.O.
97 Elio Grasso 2016 Ginestra Casa Matè (Barolo).

Menthol, rose, new leather and forest-berry
nins. Drink 2024–2036. Vintus LLC. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $175
abv: 14.5% Price: $58
aromas are front and center on this fragrant red. Full

bodied and still youthfully austere, the tightly knit,
palate shows dried Marasca cherry, spiced cran- 96 Barale Fratelli 2016 Castellero (Barolo).
New leather, camphor, tobacco and fragrant
96 Fratelli Alessandria 2016 Gramolere
(Barolo). Pressed rose, camphor, woodland
berry, dark spice and new leather are just some of
berry, licorice and crushed mint alongside firm fine- purple flower are just some of the aromas you’ll find the aromas you’ll find on this fragrant red. Radi-
grained tannins. Give it time to fully unwind and on this fragrant, focused red. The delicious palate ant, structured and boasting finesse and depth, the
develop even more complexity. Drink 2026–2056. features juicy red cherry, crushed raspberry, baking palate delivers raspberry compote, mature morello
Tenzing Wine and Spirits. Cellar Selection. —K.O. spice and truffle while taut polished tannins pro- cherry, cinnamon and menthol framed in taut
abv: 15% Price: $NA vide seamless support. Fresh acidity keeps it youth- refined tannins. It’s well balanced, with bright acid-
ful and balanced. It’s already showing beautifully ity. Drink 2024–2036. North Berkeley Imports. Cel-
97 Fratelli Alessandria 2016 Monvigliero

(Barolo). For full review see page 91. Cellar
Selection.
but will also offer years of pleasure. Drink through
2031. DJK Imports. —K.O.
abv: 14% Price: $70
lar Selection. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $80
abv: 15% Price: $90
96 Borgogno F.lli Serio e Battista 2016 Can- 96 G D Vajra 2016 Ravera (Barolo). Focused
and vibrant, this chiseled red has enticing
97 Giovanni Rosso 2016 Cerretta (Barolo). Rose,

red-berry, camphor and dark-spice aromas
slowly emerge in the glass. Showing Serralunga’s
nubi (Barolo). Rose-petal, woodland-berry,
clove and wild herb aromas are front and center
on this fragrant red along with a whiff of camphor.
scents of small red berry, rose, menthol and culi-
nary spice. On the taut, youthfully austere palate,
a backbone of firm, fine-grained tannins supports
hallmark of firm structure and finesse, the full- From the heart of this legendary vineyard area, the juicy red cherry, strawberry and licorice while fresh
bodied, youthfully tense palate delivers juicy red focused, elegantly structured palate features pome- acidity keeps it balanced. Give it time to unwind
cherry, raspberry compote, dried mint and licorice granate, crushed raspberry, star anise and a hint of and come together. Drink 2026–2041. Winebow.
set against a backbone of noble tannins. Bright cinnamon framed in tightly knit fine-grained tan- Cellar Selection. —K.O.
acidity keeps it impeccably balanced. Drink 2026– nins. Bright acidity keeps it balanced and lends abv: 14.5% Price: $90
2056. Vias Imports. Cellar Selection. —K.O. enough energy for long cellaring. Drink 2024–2046.
abv: 14% Price: $95 Skurnik Wines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —K.O.
abv: 14% Price: $45 96 Giacomo Fenocchio 2016 Villero (Barolo).
Woodland-berry, new leather, camphor
97 Giovanni Rosso 2016 Serra (Barolo). Under-

brush, wild herb, menthol and dark-spice
aromas mingle with a whiff of fragrant purple flower 96 Brandini 2016 Annunziata (Barolo). Ripe
dark-skinned berry, new leather, tilled
and fragrant blue-flower aromas align in the glass.
Showing youthful tension and depth, the palate is
still immaturely austere but delivers juicy Mar-
on this gorgeous red. It boasts firm structure and earth and camphor aromas are front and center. asca cherry, raspberry and licorice alongside firm,
finesse in equal measure, featuring juicy morello Full bodied and delicious, the chewy, enveloping refined tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it well balanced.
cherry, raspberry compote, licorice and cinnamon palate doles out raspberry compote, juicy Marasca Drink 2024–2041. Skurnik Wines, Inc. Cellar
framed in assertive but refined tannins and fresh cherry, licorice and clove set against taut, seasoned Selection. —K.O.
acidity. A minty note lingers on the finish. Drink tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it fresh and balanced. abv: 14.5% Price: $62
2028–2056. Vias Imports. Cellar Selection. —K.O. Drink 2023–2031. USA Wine West. —K.O.
abv: 14% Price: $95 abv: 14.5% Price: $95
96 Giovanni Rosso 2016 del Comune di Serra-
lunga d’Alba (Barolo). Iris, woodland-berry
97 Massolino 2016 Parafada (Barolo). Wood-

land berry, wild rose, new leather and cam-
phor aromas shape the nose on this fragrant red. It’s
96 Brandini 2016 Cerretta (Barolo). Forest
berry, underbrush, iris, rose and camphor
waft out of the glass. Savory, vibrant and expres-
and pine-forest aromas shape the nose. On the
focused, vibrant palate, mint and star anise notes
accent a core juicy Marasca cherry. Taut polished
structured but also boasts a weightless elegance, sive, the polished, structured palate delivers straw- tannins and bright acidity provide balance and
delivering juicy red cherry, strawberry compote, berry compote, crushed morello cherry, licorice and a firm lithe structure. Drink 2024–2031. Vias
licorice and tobacco set against noble tannins. Fresh tobacco alongside firm, refined tannins. Bright acid- Imports. —K.O.
acidity keeps it well balanced. Drink 2026–2056. ity generates youthful tension. Drink 2024–2036. abv: 14% Price: $66
Vineyard Brands. Cellar Selection. —K.O. USA Wine West. —K.O.
96 Massolino 2016 Margheria (Barolo).
Demonstrating Serralunga’s more elegant
97 Renato Ratti 2016 Conca (Barolo). For full

review see page 92. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14% Price: $75
96 Elvio Cogno 2016 Cascina Nuova (Barolo).
Rose, woodland berry and baking spice
shape the nose along with crushed mint notes on
side thanks to soils that have higher than usual
amounts of sand for the village, this offers enticing
scents of red berry, iris, botanical herb and dark spice.
this fragrant red. The savory, polished palate boasts Vibrant, structured and loaded with finesse, the lin-
97 Renato Ratti 2016 Marcenasco (Barolo). For

full review see page 92. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14% Price: $65
succulent raspberry, ripe strawberry and white pep-
per before taut tannins and bright acidity reveal a
firm, elegant structure. Star anise lingers on the fin-
ear palate offers crushed raspberry, dark cherry and
star anise framed in taut, refined tannins. It’s vibrant
and balanced, with bright acidity. Drink 2026–2041.
ish. Drink 2023–2036. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —K.O. Vineyard Brands. Cellar Selection. —K.O.
97 Renato Ratti 2016 Rocche dell’Annunziata

(Barolo). For full review see page 92. Cellar
Selection.
abv: 14.5% Price: $75 96 Figli Luigi Oddero 2016 Barolo. Perfumed
berry, pine-forest, rose and menthol aro-
mas mingle together on this fragrant, stunning red.
96 Mauro Veglio 2016 Arborina (Barolo). For
full review see page 93. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.5% Price: $60

96
abv: 15%
Mauro Veglio 2016 Paiagallo (Barolo). For
full review see page 93. Cellar Selection.
Price: $90
good candidate for aging. Diamond Importers Inc.
Editors’ Choice. —S.K.
abv: 13% Price: $34
Pair with grilled fish or hard cheeses. Diamond
Importers Inc. —S.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $16
96 Michele Chiarlo 2016 Cannubi (Barolo).

Forest floor, mature plum, new leather and
game mingle with a floral scent of iris. Showing an
92 Argyros 2017 Assyrtiko (Santorini). Elegant
aromas of citrus, smoke and lemongrass
give this benchmark Assyrtiko a stately initial flair.
89 Santo Wines 2018 Volcanic Terroir Assyr-
tiko (Santorini). This wine speaks to its
pedigreed terroir of Santorini, with floral aromas
attractive combination of earthiness and elegance, On the palate, its balance of clean citrus fruit, stone of peach, white fruit and citrus, and focused flavors
the savory, enveloping palate doles out juicy Mar- and a touch of tropical fruit give it excellent food- of minerals, smoke and citrus peel. The wine offers
asca cherry, raspberry compote, truffle and white pairing character. The wine finishes clean and brisk. pronounced texture and mouthfilling flavors, with
pepper alongside chewy, fine-grained tannins. Fresh Athenee Importers. Editors’ Choice. —S.K. a clean brisk finish. Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K.
acidity keeps it balanced and youthfully tense. abv: 14% Price: $32 abv: 13.3% Price: $21
Drink 2024–2036. Kobrand. —K.O.
91 Santo Wines 2016 Grande Reserve Assyrtiko
(Santorini). This regal Assyrtiko from San- 88 Greek Wine Cellars 2018 Kouros Assyrtiko
(Sterea Ellada). This wine is pert and pretty,
96 Michele Chiarlo 2016 Cerequio (Barolo).

Fragrant purple flower, dark-skinned berry,
chopped mint and pipe tobacco are just some of
torini starts with assertive aromas of toasted nut,
vanilla and lemon peel. On the palate, rich flavors
of nuts and white fruit finish with a smoky spicy
with a good balance of salinity and citrus fruit. It’s
a style that sits nicely between overly austere or
fruity. Easy-drinking and affordable, it’s a fantastic
the aromas you’ll find on this captivating red. The finish. It’s a white than can handle more complex summer sip. Nestor Imports. Best Buy. —S.K.
delicious palate combines structure, finesse and flavors (think ripe cheeses, spicy cuisine) and abv: 12.5% Price: $13
earthiness, delivering juicy Marasca cherry, black should be considered for additional aging. Diamond
raspberry, licorice and truffle framed in taut, fine-
grained tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it youthfully
focused and well balanced. Drink 2024–2036.
Importers Inc. —S.K.
abv: 14.5% Price: $51 87 Tsantali 2018 Klima Klima Organic Assyrtiko
(Halkidiki). This organic Assyrtiko starts
with a spicy, mineral-driven nose, and on the palate,
Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —K.O.
abv: 14% Price: $125 89 Alexakis 2018 Assyrtiko (Crete). The
bouquet on this elegant Assyrtiko is packed
with passion fruit, lemon peel and flowers, and on
a creamy mouthfeel. Pear, spice and dried herb fla-
vors are buoyed by a fresh salinity and good struc-
ture. Fantis Imports, Inc. —S.K.
96 Mirafiore 2016 Lazzarito (Barolo). Combin-

ing finesse, structure and fragrance, this
radiant red offers enticing scents of perfumed berry,
the palate, it’s exotic but refined, with tropical-
fruit and citrus flavors and a pronounced miner-
ality. The finish is lingering and mouthwatering.
abv: 12.5% Price: $20
wild herb, clove and a balsamic whiff of camphor.

On the chiseled, well-balanced palate, firm refined
tannins and fresh acidity accompany juicy black
cherry, baking spice, crushed mint and tobacco.
It’s both concentrated yet weightless. Drink 2026–
2046. Domaine Select Wine & Spirits. Cellar
Selection. —K.O.
96 Pio Cesare 2016 Barolo. For full review see

page 93. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.5% Price: $70 The venetian art
96 Poderi Luigi Einaudi 2016 Cannubi (Barolo).
Rose, exotic spice and dark-skinned berry
of winemaking
aromas mingle with whiffs of menthol and new
leather on this radiant Barolo. Firmly structured
and loaded with finesse, the savory palate deliv-
ers ripe morello cherry, orange zest, licorice and
tobacco before a crushed mint finish. Taut fine-
grained tannins and fresh acidity keep it well bal-
anced. Drink 2026–2036. Empson USA Ltd. Cellar
Selection. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $138
GREECE
ASSYRTIKO
92 Alpha Estate 2017 Ecosystem Single Block

Aghia Kiriaki Assyrtiko (Florina). This sin-
gle-block Assyrtiko from Florina offers aromas of
tropical fruit, flowers and citrus peel, and on the MASI Agricola – Via Monteleone 26, 37015 Sant'Ambrogio di Valpolicella (Verona) - Italy
palate, a full-bodied wave of smoke and fruit, with
Imported by SANTA MARGHERITA USA. MADE RESPONSIBLY TO BE ENJOYED RESPONSIBLY
delicious salinity and focus. The wine offers com-
plexity and character, with a lingering finish. It’s a
WINEMAG.COM | 119
BUYINGGUIDE
87 Vassaltis 2017 Barrel Aged Assyrtiko
(Santorini). Vanilla-spice, minerals and
orange aromas give this oak-aged Santorini Assyr-
Merlot offers aromas of violet, black currant and a
touch of cinnamon spice. On the palate, it’s full bod-
ied and fruity, with vanilla, plum and red-cherry
FETEASCA NEAGRA
tiko soul and depth. The wine has a spicy, smoky
character on the palate, with a bright fruit flavor
balancing the earthier elements. A long aftertaste
flavors. This is a wine that will appeal to myriad pal-
ates and has aging potential. Nestor Imports. —S.K.
abv: 14% Price: $14
90 SERVE 2015 Cuvée Guy de Poix Feteasca
Neagra (Dealu Mare). This Feteasca Neagra
is dark garnet, with aromas of black plum, graphite,
adds elegance. Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. bramble and black cherry. In the mouth, it is well
abv: 14.2% Price: $67
88 Karavitakis 2017 The Little Prince Unoaked
Red (Crete). With a little chill on this Cre-
balanced, with flavors of red plum, pomegranate
and black raspberry. The tannins are velvety smooth
87 Zacharias 2017 Assyrtiko (Peloponnese). A

fragrant apricot, lemon-curd and tropical-
fruit nose revels the variety’s more expressive char-
tan blend of indigenous Kotsifali and Mandilari,
you’ve got an intriguing and affordable summer red.
Aromas of black cherry, pepper and crushed herbs
and the finish is pleasantly acidic. Terra Firma
USA Inc. —J.J.
abv: 15.5% Price: $36
acter. The full-bodied flavors of fresh tropical fruit, are followed by waves of earthy spice and red fruit.
vanilla spice and minerals are easy-drinking and
distinctive. Stellar Importing Company, LLC. —S.K.
abv: 14% Price: $13
The wine offers structure and complexity, with a
lingering finish. Impressive for the price. Athenee
Importers. —S.K.
87 Domeniile Sahateni 2017 Artisan Feteasca
Neagra (Dealu Mare). Dark garnet in the
glass, this Feteasca Neagra has aromas of cinnamon,
abv: 13% Price: $17 vanilla and black raspberry. In the mouth, there
are flavors of cassis and brown baking spices. Terra
RED BLENDS Firma USA Inc. —J.J.
ROMANIA abv: 14% Price: $16
91 Domaine Costa Lazaridi 2017 Amethystos

Rouge (Drama). Warming spice, violet and
cherry aromas give this vibrant wine an appealing
PINOT NOIR
87 SERVE 2015 Terra Romana Feteasca Neagra
(Dealu Mare). This Feteasca Neagra is garnet
start. Full bodied, structured and packed with flavors
of smoke, spice and red fruits, it finishes long and
spicy. This is a great wine for the cellar but can be
88 Domeniile Sahateni 2016 Anima Pinot Noir
(Dealu Mare). Light cherry red in the glass,
this Pinot Noir has aromas of brown baking spices,
ruby in the glass, with aromas of red plum, green pep-
per and smoked meats. The tannins are a bit grippy,
with flavors of black raspberry, black plum and black
enjoyed now with game, beef. Nestor Imports. —S.K. red raspberry and ripe red cherry. In the mouth, it pepper on the palate. Terra Firma USA Inc. —J.J.
abv: 14.5% Price: $25 is smooth, with flavors of tart cherry pie and red abv: 14.8% Price: $14
raspberry. Terra Firma USA Inc. —J.J.
91 Domaine Costa Lazaridi 2017 Oenotria Land

(Drama). Earthy herb, olive and spice-box
abv: 13.5% Price: $30
SOUTH AFRICA
aromas are a sexy start to this delicious red blend.
On the palate, complexity and good acidity give its
dark-berry and spice flavors an edge. Elegant but
86 Cramele Recas 2019 Încânta Pinot Noir
(Romania). Aromas of cinnamon, nutmeg,
red raspberry and cherry lead you to flavors of ripe
CABERNET SAUVIGNON
a touch rustic, this is a conversation piece for the
table. Nestor Imports. —S.K.
abv: 14.5% Price: $33
cherry, pomegranate and cranberry. There is good
heft on the palate and a splash of acidity in the finish.
Terra Firma USA Inc. Best Buy. —J.J.
94 Reyneke 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon (Stellen-
bosch). This biodynamic wine opens with a
heady bouquet of potpourri, bramble, cherry pre-
abv: 12.5% Price: $9 serves, blackberry sauce and macerated black cur-
91 Kir-Yianni 2017 Paranga (Macedonia). This

combination of Merlot, Xinomavro and Syrah
offers concentrated aromas of red fruits, rose petal 86 Cramele Recas 2019 Legendary Estate Series
Pinot Noir (Romania). This Pinot Noir is
rants. It’s fruity, floral and spicy all at once, with
waves of each commingling for a complete pack-
age. The palate is suave and velvety in feel, with
and a touch of spice, with elegant flavors of cherry cherry red, with aromas of ripe cherry, brown bak- a smooth, fruity impression at first that yields to
and blackberry. Integrated, elegant and smooth, it ing spices and red raspberry. In the mouth, there structured tannins and lingering notes of sweet
offers a great deal of style for an affordable price. are flavors of pomegranate and black cherry, with a spice and sweet wood on the long finish. Vineyard
Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. juicy finish. Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —J.J. Brands. —L.B.
abv: 13.5% Price: $16 abv: 12.5% Price: $9 abv: 14% Price: $136
89 Domaine Costa Lazaridi 2015 Château Julia

(Drama). This wine offers very appealing
aromas of milk chocolate, black cherry and spice.
86 SERVE 2018 Chevalier de Dyonis Pinot Noir
(Romania). Ruby red in the glass, this wine
has aromas of red raspberry, ripe cherry and baking
93 Boekenhoutskloof 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Stellenbosch). Black currant, licorice root,
cedar and whole tobacco leaf form the nose of this
Its forest-fruit and red-cherry flavors are plush and spices. In the mouth it is pleasantly tart, with fla- dark, suave red. The palate is smooth and seductive
integrated, with a touch of spice and minerals giving vors of cassis and black cherry. Terra Firma USA Inc. in feel, with structured yet plush and pillowy tan-
it appeal. Overall, the style is juicy and tasty, with a Best Buy. —J.J. nins that, combined with the ripe black fruit and
spicy finish. Nestor Imports. —S.K. abv: 13% Price: $10 black berry flavors, lend a textural impression like
abv: 14.5% Price: $27 crushed velvet. The finish is all black fruit and sweet,
89 Wine Art Estate 2016 Techni Alipias

(Drama). Violet, dark berry and cola aro-
85 Cramele Recas 2019 I Am Pinot Noir (Roma-
nia). Ruby red in the glass, this Pinot Noir
has aromas of sour cherry, confectioners’ sugar and
earthy spice, like cedar plank-grilled black plums and
charred fennel bulb. Vineyard Brands. —L.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $69
mas start this exotic but elegant red. Tomato, spices, red raspberry. In the mouth, it has flavors of juicy
pepper and black-currant flavors are finished with a
touch of smoke. Good overall balance and structure
give the wine appeal for serious wine lovers. Cava
ripe cherry and cranberry. It has a persistent yet
slightly tart finish. Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —J.J.
abv: 12.5% Price: $9
93 Keermont 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon (Stel-
lenbosch). Bright and spicy up top, this
leads with notes of kirsch and crème de cassis that
Oinos. —S.K. are complemented by sweet spice, dried purple flo-
abv: 14% Price: $NA rals and raspberry leaf. The palate is smooth and
satiny at first, with rich fruit tones leading the
88 Amalagos 2016 Plóes Cabernet Sauvignon-

Merlot (Drama). This blend of Cabernet and
experience, while firm yet fine tannins enter on the
midpalate and carry through with moderate inten-

sity through the earthy, sweet-spiced finish. Kysela cherry and boysenberry set the stage for a ripe and
Père et Fils. —L.B. fruity pour, with supporting notes of licorice root,
abv: 14.5% Price: $42 cedar and sweet wood spice. The plush texture is
grounded in more rich berry fruitiness, with tones
91 Boekenhoutskloof 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon

(Franschhoek). Pressed violet, black rasp-
berry, cherry and mulberry all form the bouquet
of cherry pit and cocoa lingering on the close. Elek-
tra Wines LLC. —L.B.
abv: 13.5% Price: $60
of this attractive red, with some delicate scents of
church incense and sweet baking spice, like whole
nutmeg and allspice, in the background. It’s smooth
and plush on the palate, with moderate tannins and
90 Edgebaston 2017 David Finlayson Cabernet
Sauvignon (Stellenbosch). This is warm-
ing right off the bat, with intense aromas of high-
ripe berry flavors that produce a crushed-satin tex- toned cherry, macerated berries, crème de cassis
ture and leave an enduring impression. Vineyard and crushed violet. The palate is smooth and sultry
Brands. —L.B. at first, but then reveals a structured grip and an
abv: 14.5% Price: $69 almost iron-like impression that lingers through the
finish alongside pronounced licorice and ripe berry
91 Botanica 2017 Big Flower Cabernet Sauvignon

(Stellenbosch). A pronounced licorice-fueled
warmth leads the nose of this red, with additional
flavors. Southern Starz, Inc. —L.B.
abv: 15% Price: $20
aromas of cigar box, brambly blackberry, cassis and

black plum. The palate is smooth and flush in feel,
with ripe and well-integrated tannins that provide
90 Glenelly 2016 Glass Collection Cabernet
Sauvignon (Stellenbosch). An upfront
minty, herbal character sets the stage on the nose of
a well-balanced structure opposite the black plum, this wine, with supporting aromas of cassis, black-
berry and cherry flavors. Herbal notes of black berry and mentholated black cherry. The palate is
currant leaf and whole tobacco unfold on the lin- smooth and satiny, with fine yet supporting tannins
gering finish. Pascal/Schildt Selections. Editors’ and ample acidity to complement the ripe black-
Choice. —L.B. fruit core. The finish takes you through a ride of
abv: 15% Price: $25 fruity dominance back to herbal sensations on the
close. Cape Classics. —L.B.
91 Edgebaston 2015 GS David Finlayson Cabernet

Sauvignon (Stellenbosch). There’s an asser-
abv: 14% Price: $18
tive, decadently mentholated note at the fore of this

wine’s bouquet, redolent of Thin Mints and cocoa-
dusted brandied cherries, with notes of cassis and
90 Helderberg Winery 2017 Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon (Stellenbosch). Warm, dark and spicy,
this opens with enticing aromas of blackberry paste,
black currant leaf as well. The palate is suave and macerated black cherry and spiced plum, all hit by
attractive, with a texture like crushed satin and lin- solid dustings of cedar, tobacco and turned earth.
gering rich berry flavors that are framed by fine yet The palate is medium in weight and velvety in feel,
structured tannins and a solid dose of sweet spice. with structured yet ripe tannins that well frame
Southern Starz, Inc. —L.B. the ripe fruit flavors and lend endurance, alongside
abv: 15% Price: $50 oodles of sweet-wood and cigar-box spice, to the
finish. Vineyard Brands. Editors’ Choice. —L.B.
91 Noble Hill 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon (Simons-

berg-Paarl). Turned earth, warm cigar-box
abv: 14% Price: $16
spice, cedar and licorice root all ride atop black fruit
tones of cassis, plum and blackberry on the nose
and mouth of this robust wine. The palate is suave
90 Sutherland 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Elgin). The nose of this bold red is redo-
lent of cassis, blackberry, licorice, cigar box and
at first, but then firm and gripping in feel, as bold, turned earth. On the palate, firmly structured tan-
structured tannins show off on the midpalate and nins and a grip of black fruit-skin astringency lead
ride with great intensity and lingering astringency the experience. They soften on the finish with time,
through the long close. Canopy Wine Selections. revealing more black currant and plum flavors that
Editors’ Choice. —L.B. are hit by allspice and licorice root. Canopy Wine
abv: 14% Price: $22 Selections. Editors’ Choice. —L.B.
abv: 13% Price: $19
91 Thelema 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon (Stellen-

bosch). Cassis and blackberry paste mingle
with black currant leaf, fresh wild mint and green RED BLENDS
peppercorn on the nose of this complex red. The
palate is full and plush in feel, with robust black
fruit flavors that mirror the bouquet and are framed
by velvety tannins that lend ample grip through
94 De Toren 2017 Book 17 XVII (Stellenbosch).
There’s a slight warmth upfront on the nose
of this bold wine, with pronounced wood spice and
the enduring close. Hints of cigar box and leathery sweet oak tones that ride atop the plush cassis,
spice add depth to the end. Canopy Wine Selec- blackberry and black plum fruit. The palate is bold
tions. —L.B. and quite firmly structured at present, with oodles
abv: 14% Price: $35 of oak-fueled spice that overlay, but don’t com-
WATCH THE
pletely overwhelm, the just-ripe black currant and BRAND VIDEO
91 Warwick 2015 The Blue Lady Cabernet Sau-

vignon (Stellenbosch). Decadent black
plum flavors. It’s firm and structured, but with good
balance and the promise of great longevity. Drink
WINEMAG.COM | 121
BUYINGGUIDE
after 2025 and through 2035. Cape Classics. Cellar
Selection. —L.B.
abv: 15.5% Price: $110
92 Kanonkop 2016 Paul Sauer (Simonsberg-
Stellenbosch). A spiced cherry aroma leads
the bouquet of this wine, with supporting notes
Cobb, this wine offers a persistence of stone and
lemon peel within a framework of focused acidity. An
underlying unctuousness of green apple and white
of currant, raspberry leaf and forest bramble. The peach complement and adds complexity. —V.B.
94 Kanonkop 2015 Estate Paul Sauer (Simons-

berg-Stellenbosch). A pronounced anise
palate is smooth and satiny at first, with fine-grain
tannins that take over the midpalate and linger well
abv: 13.2% Price: $70
and warm-spice lift carries the bouquet of this red

wine immediately out of the glass. It’s grounded by
abundant notes of blackberry, mulberry and cassis
into the medium-length finish alongside spicy tones
of cocoa-dusted cherry, charred plum and a touch of
blackberry leaf. Cape Classics. —L.B.
94 Hartford Court 2018 Chardonnay (Russian
River Valley). This is an outstanding appel-
lation wine, made in larger quantities at a remark-
on the nose, as well as additional hints of cigar box abv: 14% Price: $62 ably fair price. Grapes come from throughout the
and turned earth. The palate is firm and gripping, diverse valley and the wine barrel fermented and
with intense tannins and robust flavors of black
fruit skin, licorice root and charred oak that linger
long on the finish. Cape Classics. —L.B.
92 Spier 2013 Frans K Smit (Stellenbosch). Cas-
sis, blackberry and plum skin immediately
waft from the glass of this blend of 49% Cabernet
given nine months to rest. Full bodied, layered and
widely appealing, it shows a density of peach, pear,
baking spice and sweet oak, all of the components
abv: 14% Price: $55 Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc and coming together seamlessly at the end. Editors’
4% Shiraz. Aromas of licorice root, turned soil and Choice. —V.B.
94 Mvemve Raats 2016 MR de Compostella

(Stellenbosch). Cassis, blackberry and
green tobacco unfold with more time and consider-
ation. Everything continues to unfurl on the velvety,
abv: 14.2% Price: $30
boysenberry fruit all mingle seamlessly with spicy,

herbal tones of licorice root, Maduro tobacco,
lightly charred cedar and wood spice on the nose
medium-weight palate, with plush tannins framing
it all and a lingering cigar box spice that brings it all
together on the close. Saranty Imports. —L.B.
94 Hartford Court 2018 Four Hearts Vineyards
Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Robust
in oak from barrel fermentation and 10 months of
and mouth of this robust wine. The palate is plush abv: 14.5% Price: $135 aging, this wine is made from four sites within older
and bold in feel, with spicy, well-structured tannins plantings within the appellation—a showcase of
that provide ample support to the ripe black fruit
tones and a lingering grip to the close. It’s well bal-
anced and all in equal measure, suggesting a wine
92 Warwick 2016 Estate Reserve (Stellen-
bosch). A prominent minty, herbal over-
tone introduces the nose of this lush, layered wine,
blending and vine age that delivers fleshy lushness
and texture. A tension of acidity boosts strong fla-
vors of apple, nutmeg and pear. —V.B.
that’s built for the long haul. Drink 2024–2030. expressed in pronounced waves of fresh fynbos, bay abv: 14.1% Price: $50
Cape Classics. Cellar Selection. —L.B. leaf and rooibos. It’s bold and well structured on
abv: 14.5% Price: $85 the palate, with firm yet appropriate tannins that
lend superb structure to the ripe black fruit flavors. 94 Penville 2018 Spear Vineyard Chardonnay
(Sta. Rita Hills). This bottling is very tightly
93 De Toren 2016 Fusion V (Stellenbosch).

Blackberry, plum and currant fruit aromas
form the bouquet of this enticing red, with addi-
The finish provides wonderful evolution, from ripe
fruit to wood spice and finally landing on more of
those initial mentholated herb notes that drew you
spun on the nose, judiciously allowing steely aromas
of light oak, racy lemon peel and mandarin pith to
emerge. It hits the palate with a yuzu freshness, lead-
tional notes of cedar box, pipe tobacco and licorice in from the start. Elektra Wines LLC. —L.B. ing into elegantly exotic flavors of gunpowder green
root. The palate is smooth and velvety in feel, with abv: 13.5% Price: $70 tea and penetratingly linear lemon juice. —M.K.
moderate tannins that frame the plush fruit flavors abv: 14.3% Price: $25
and offer lingering grip and structure through the
CALIFORNIA
close. Final impressions of black plum skin and
cigar box spice carry the finish. Cape Classics. —L.B. 94 Sanford 2017 La Rinconada Vineyard Char-
donnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Smooth and suave
abv: 14.5% Price: $60 CHARDONNAY aromas of lime pith, Meyer lemon peel, underripe
nectarine and acacia blossoms show on the invit-
93 Glenelly 2013 Lady May (Stellenbosch). This

is a beautiful, expressive wine, with loads
of potpourri, dried floral and cinnamon-spice notes
97 Massican 2019 Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay
(Napa Valley). For full review see page 92.
Editors’ Choice.
ing nose of this bottling. It hits the palate with a
brilliantly tactile energy, showing crushed seashell,
buttered toast and lemon-balm flavors that rise into
that lead on the nose and ride atop the decadent abv: 13.4% Price: $50 a caramel-kissed finish. —M.K.
fruit tones of blackberry, boysenberry and black abv: 13.5% Price: $50
plum flesh. The palate is full and smooth, yet not
overdone or overly opulent, with more of those ripe
black fruit flavors that are partnered with tones of
95 Black Kite 2017 Gap’s Crown Chardonnay
(Petaluma Gap). Richly layered, complex
and expressive, this vineyard-designate is beauti- 94 Sanford 2017 Sanford & Benedict Vineyard
Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Tight aromas
tilled earth, licorice, light char and freshly ground fully spiced in nutmeg and clove. Floral aromatics of key lime peel, subdued white flowers and a steely
coffee. The tannins are structuring, yet well inte- add to the intrigue and invitation, with an inten- minerality show on the nose of this bottling. The
grated into the mix, with a long finish to seal the sity of oak adding weight and texture to a balanced palate is wound up and bristling with energy, as its
deal. Cape Classics. —L.B. frame of structure and elegance. —V.B. chalky texture carries flavors of light lime, pastry
abv: 14.5% Price: $55 abv: 13.8% Price: $62 and a hint of oak. —M.K.
abv: 12.5% Price: $55
93 Thelema 2015 Rabelias (Stellenbosch).

Lovely aromas of rich cassis, black cherry,
plum sauce, pressed violet and a touch of sweet
95 Joseph Phelps 2018 Freestone Vineyards
Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). From estate-
grown grapes, this impressively layered, complex 94 Seavey 2018 Estate Grown Chardonnay
(Napa Valley). Celebrating its 30th vintage
cigar tobacco form the bouquet of this hearty yet and cool-climate characteristic white is layered this year, this producer employs both Philippe
alluring red. The palate is plush and velvety in in gravelly texture and crushed rock. Briny ocean Melka and Jim Duane as winemakers, working with
feel, with robust yet ripe tannins that are perfectly influence coats a crisp core of green apple and 40 acres of estate fruit from Conn Valley. Bold and
matched to the bold intensity of the ripe black fruit Meyer lemon, leading to a complete finish. —V.B. full bodied, with tension and generous oak, it livens
flavors. Lasting impressions of black plum and abv: 13.5% Price: $60 on the midpalate to share crisp flavors of apple and
cherry flesh fuel the finish, with notes of cherry pit, pear seasoned in nutmeg and clove. —V.B.
pipe tobacco and sweet licorice on the back. Canopy
Wine Selections. —L.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $62
94 Cobb 2017 Doc’s Ranch JoAnn’s Block Char-
donnay (Sonoma Coast). Steely, lifted and
floral, in keeping with the style of winemaker Ross
abv: 14% Price: $55

94
page 96.
Westwood 2018 Sangiacomo Vineyard Char-
donnay (Sonoma Coast). For full review see
palate as well, where a steely, clean line of yuzu zest
cuts through the crème fraiche. —M.K.
abv: 14% Price: $34
92
page 100.
McKinney 2018 Queen Charlemagne Char-
donnay (Sta. Rita Hills). For full review see
93 Babcock 2018 Dream Field Peake Vineyard

Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Fresh lime
93 Mi Sueño 2017 Chardonnay (Los Carneros).
This is a luxuriously flavorful wine, robust
in pear, green apple and a touch of toffee. With a 92 Melville 2019 Clone 76 Inox Chardonnay
(Sta. Rita Hills). This steel-fermented and
peel, brisk apple flesh and fragrant white-flower great depth of integrated oak and concentrated body steel-aged bottling starts with floral aromas of hon-
blossoms make for an extremely zesty nose on this weight, it finishes in complex acidity and a contrast eysuckle, orange blossom, poached pear and light
single-vineyard expression. There’s a strong citrus of sweet vanilla. —V.B. pastry. There’s a burst of acidity on the sip, where
sizzle to the sip, which cuts into the baked apple, abv: 14.5% Price: $42 tuberose and guava flavors are kept in check by the
white-peach and savory sea-salt flavors. —M.K. crisp texture. —M.K.
abv: 13.8% Price: $55
93 Venge 2018 Brown Ranch Chardonnay (Los
Carneros). From a former cattle ranch once
abv: 12.5% Price: $40
93 Babcock 2018 The Limit Radian Vineyard

Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Aromas of
Meyer lemon-peel-spiked butter, brioche with
associated with Saintsbury Winery and bordering
Hyde Vineyard, this deliciously complex white is
lemony and high toned, with a floral undercurrent
92 Merryvale 2017 Silhouette Chardonnay
(Napa Valley). This is a long-aged white,
given 16 months in 40% new French oak. Reductive
peach cream and crushed chalk make for a very of great appeal. Sharp and bright in acidity, it offers qualities give way over time to rich, dense aspects
engaging nose on this bottling. The palate begins depth and balance, with lasting notes of pear, bak- of caramel, brioche and tropical fruit, with bright
with a toasty kick, then comes waves of yuzu and ing spice and crushed rock. —V.B. underlying acidity providing balance and brightness
exotic citrus before settling back into a browned abv: 14.5% Price: $47 amidst the oak and concentration. —V.B.
butter element, making for a layered and comfort- abv: 14% Price: $70
ing sip. —M.K.
abv: 13.6% Price: $55 92 Balletto 2017 Twin Ridges Chardonnay
(Sonoma Coast). An estate-grown wine
from the coast, this white is floral and light, with 92 Navarro 2018 Premiere Reserve Chardon-
nay (Anderson Valley). This full-bodied but
93 Balletto 2017 Cider Ridge Chardonnay (Rus-

sian River Valley). Salty and briny on entry,
this impressive estate-grown white is warm on the
buzzy energetic acidity. Flinty and fresh, it unfurls
lithe layers of Gravenstein apple, wet stone and a
sparkling hint of brine. —V.B.
well-balanced wine supports luscious vanilla, but-
ter and poached pear flavors with good, racy acidity
so its richness is not at all cloying. —J.G.
midpalate and fruitier components of pear and abv: 13.8% Price: $42 abv: 13.9% Price: $29
Gravenstein apple. Sizzling acidity adds to its length
and sense of expansion, with a finishing touch of
nutmeg and clove. —V.B.
abv: 13.6% Price: $39
92 Brick & Mortar 2018 Chardonnay (Anderson
Valley). This is a flinty, smooth and high-
toned wine, made well and in a light, bright style.
92 Sanford 2016 Founders’ Vines Chardon-
nay (Sta. Rita Hills). Acacia-blossom, light
butter and Meyer lemon-peel aromas show on the
Citrus-driven, it has layers of lemon, grapefruit nose of this bottling from vine planted in the early
93 Fort Ross Vineyard 2017 Mother of Pearl

Chardonnay (Fort Ross-Seaview). Winemaker
Jeff Pisoni works magic in this crisp, floral and
and blood orange that lead to briny oyster shell and
nuanced oak. —V.B.
abv: 13% Price: $24
1970s. Rounded flavors of toast, baked nectarine and
lemon zest are rich yet sliced with acidity. —M.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $70
stony white from the Fort Ross Vineyard estate in
view of the Pacific Ocean. Melon, apricot and pear
flavors present strongly around hints of white tea
and jasmine, the texture elegantly layered and com-
92 Eden Rift 2018 Valliant Chardonnay (Central
Coast). Toasty aromas of fine grained oak join
with Asian pear, yellow rose and grapefruit pith on
92 Tondré 2018 Tondre Grapefield Chardonnay
(Santa Lucia Highlands). Quite light in the
glass, this bottling begins with hints of toast, wet
posed. —V.B. the nose of this bottling. The palate shows plenty of rock, cream and thinly sliced pineapple on the nose.
abv: 13.5% Price: $60 grippy texture, offering tangerine peel, seared apple There’s a great structure to the sip, where a sea-
flesh, a pinch of salt and an oaky tightness. —M.K. shell-like minerality frames the buttery pie-crust,
93 Foxen 2018 Block UU Bien Nacido Vineyard

Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). For full
abv: 14.3% Price: $25 white-flower and citrus-zest flavors. —M.K.
abv: 13.4% Price: $25
review see page 97.
abv: 13.4% Price: $35 92 Joseph Phelps 2018 Pastorale Vineyard Char-
donnay (Sonoma Coast). Estate-grown, this
wine is light and airy, tasting of the fog that lingers so 91 Asuncion Ridge 2018 Chardonnay (Paso
Robles). There’s a compelling degree of
93 Foxen 2018 Dry-Farmed Tinaquaic Vineyard

Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). Dried
lemon peels, waxy peach, crushed seashells and
frequently in this area of Freestone, just miles from
the sea. Lemony and floral, it retains mouthwater-
ing acidity throughout, and a lightness of oak, fully
tightness and texture in this rare Paso Chardon-
nay, starting with taut aromas of Meyer lemon pith
and Pink Lady apple peels. Lime, pomelo-pith and
macadamia-nut paste aroma show on the nose of integrated that adds just enough weight and a hint of slightly rounder kiwi flavors ride a brisk acidity on
this dry-farmed wine. There’ zippy energy to the baking spice. —V.B. the palate. Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
sip, where a seashell minerality dusts the brisk, abv: 13.5% Price: $90 abv: 14.5% Price: $34
high-toned display of lime-pith flavors. —M.K.
abv: 13.4% Price: $40
92 Lombardi 2018 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast).
A reductive, nutty nose leads the way to a 91 Balletto 2019 Teresa’s Unoaked Chardonnay
(Russian River Valley). Estate-grown fruit
93 Les Belles Collines 2018 Chardonnay (Russian

River Valley). For full review see page 98.
abv: 14.1% Price: $42
crisp midpalate of palpable lime and tangerine, the
wine made from Sangiacomo-farmed Roberts Road
Vineyard grapes. Crisp acidity underscores the cit-
presents as light in color and floral on the nose, with
a fleshy flavorful palate of peach, green apple and
pear. Long-lasting freshness and focus support its
rus tones while a midpalate richness of oak fermen- steely, light-bodied frame. —V.B.
93 Melville 2017 Estate Chardonnay (Sta. Rita

Hills). A heady mix of light wood, tart frozen
tation reveals peach and pear. —V.B.
abv: 13.5% Price: $44
abv: 13.3% Price: $20
yogurt, honeysuckle and orange rind hit the nose on

this bottling. The lactic element pops on the fresh 91 Balletto 2017 Sexton Hill Chardonnay (Rus-
sian River Valley). A classic from estate-
grown fruit, this opens in green olive, stone and
WINEMAG.COM | 123
BUYINGGUIDE
flint, leading to a bright light midpalate of height- flavors framing the lemon-tart and pie-crust elements. The palate is zesty with Meyer lemon-peel
ened acidity and texture. Apple and pear flavors fill ments. —M.K. flavors and a slightly nutty quality. —M.K.
out the finish. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $46 abv: 13% Price: $98
abv: 14.1% Price: $39
WHITE BLENDS WASHINGTON

91 Clay Shannon 2018 El Coyote Chardonnay
(Red Hills). For full review see page 101.
SYRAH
abv: 14.5% Price: $30
95 Massican 2019 Annia (Napa Valley). For full
review see page 94. Editors’ Choice.
91 Daou 2018 Chardonnay (Adelaida District).

Splashes of fresh lemon and nectarine start
abv: 12.8% Price: $30
93 Block Wines 2018 Ankleroller Block Stone
Speak Vineyard Syrah (Walla Walla Valley).
the aromas on this bottling before the rich tones of
toasted pecan, oak and ripe pear take over. The pal-
ate is plush with ripe apple, pear and butterscotch
94 Massican 2019 Gemina (California). A rare,
beautifully conceived blend of Napa Valley
Pinot Bianco and Sonoma County Greco, Gemina is
This is a new vineyard for this wine, but still coming
from the Rocks District. The aromas offer exuber-
ant notes of potpourri and tangerine peel along with
flavors, with just enough acidity and structure to refreshing and hugely memorable in crunchy fruit stem, pepper, plum and blueberry. A perfumed, out-
hold the unabashed richness together. —M.K. and freshness. Slatey, with a taste of the ocean, it rageously floral, elegant palate follows, with plen-
abv: 14.7% Price: $100 evolves in the glass to impart a fleshy lushness of tiful smoked meat and blueberry notes in tandem.
fig. —V.B. It shows a lovely sense of deftness. The finish has
91 Daou 2018 Reserve Chardonnay (Paso Robles

Willow Creek District). Strong aromas of
abv: 13% Price: $32 outrageous hang time. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 14.2% Price: $50
toasty oak, lemon cream, white peach, sea salt and
sandalwood are comforting on the nose of this bot-
tling. The boldly flavored palate blends pineapple
94 McPrice Myers 2018 Beautiful Earth (Paso
Robles). For full review see page 96. Edi-
tors’ Choice. 93 W.T. Vintners 2017 Damavian Les Collines
Vineyard Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). Coming
and Meyer lemon flavors on a plush mouthfeel. abv: 14.2% Price: $30 from Blocks 30 and 31 of this esteemed vineyard,
—M.K. this wine has appealing aromas of violet, parsley,
abv: 14.2% Price: $46
93 Benom 2019 Contrast Chardonnay-
Sauvignon Blanc (Paso Robles). Though
purple fruit and fresh herbs that rise up from the
glass. The palate is focused and fresh, starting out
91 Dunstan 2017 Durell Vineyard Chardonnay

(Sonoma Coast). Opening with a crisp, stony
nose of mineral and brine, this wine is also floral
from the Old World, Frenchmen-turned-Califor-
nians Arnaud and Guillaume Fabre buck tradition
with this blend of 64% Chardonnay and 36% Sau-
seeming lighter styled and then filling out over time.
It brings a compelling sense of intensity and fresh-
ness. This wine could only come from this one vine-
and earthy, with demure fruit. From the famous vignon Blanc, aged in 30% new French oak. The yard and also from this one producer. What more
vineyard, it offers classic flavors of apple, pear and result is aromas of crushed red apple, peach and could one ask for from a wine? Put it on the dinner
nutmeg, wrapped within complementary oak. —V.B. green chile followed by a palate that’s both round table to see it at its best. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 13.7% Price: $50 with guava and apple and yet brisk with grass, lime abv: 13.8% Price: $49
pith and a cement-like grip. Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
91 Gainey 2018 Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills).

This is a widely available wine that excels
abv: 13.9% Price: $50
92 Balboa 2016 Reserve Stoney Vine Vineyard
Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). One sniff and
on all fronts. Aromas of peach jam on toast, light
acacia flowers and a touch of oak are smooth on the
nose. The palate is grippy out of the gates, leading
92 Epiphany 2018 Inspiration (Santa Barbara
County). Waxy aromas of paraffin and lemon
peel are lifted by a touch of plumeria on the nose of
there is no question where this wine hails from.
Brooding aromas of wet stone, moist earth, crushed
plum, olive, raspberry, dried herbs and flowers are
through flavors of Meyer lemon cream, pastry crust this bottling. It’s vibrant on the palate, with lively followed by pillowy, soft fruit and savory flavors.
and balanced white peach. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. flavors of lime zest and chalk, making for an engag- It’s a compelling offering from this vineyard, with
abv: 13.9% Price: $22 ing sip whose structure lasts for days. —M.K. an extended finish capping it off. —S.S.
91 JCB 2017 No. 81 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast).

Seamless in oak, this rich full-bodied wine
is golden in color and flavorful in Golden Delicious 91 Carol Shelton 2018 Coquille Blanc (Paso
Robles). Honey and beeswax aromas meet 92 Sightglass 2018 Syrah (Columbia Valley).
This wine is a mixture of StoneTree Vine-
apple, baked pear and nutmeg. With length and with cashew, ambrosia melon and a hint of sea salt yard and Dineen fruit. The aromas pop, with notes
breadth, it will appeal to fans of a voluptuous style. on the dynamic nose of this always excellent white of blueberry pie, plum, coffee and spice. Intensely
—V.B. wine. It starts sharp on the palate, with lemon rich, layered blue fruit and coffee flavors follow. It’s
abv: 14.5% Price: $52 and grapefruit-peel flavors before paraffin and a hedonistic interpretation of this variety, with fruit
macadamia-nut elements add depth. —M.K. and barrel both playing big roles. —S.S.
91 Odonata 2019 Kapoor Vineyard Chardonnay

(Santa Cruz Mountains). Subtle aromas of
citrus and muddled stone fruit lay into brisk honey-

suckle and chalk on the nose of this wine. There is
a great zip to the sip, where a river-stone minerality
91 Folded Hills 2018 August (Santa Ynez Valley).
Brisk melon, jasmine, Asian pear and chalk
aromas cut through the nose of this bottling. The
92 Two Vintners 2017 Some Days Are Stones
Stoney Vine Vineyard Syrah (Walla Walla
Valley). You smell this wine and it could only come
pairs with an underlying guava flavor. —M.K. palate is a touch warmer, with poached pear flavor, from one region of the world. Earth, ember, pot-
abv: 13.3% Price: $25 yet that wet stone and chalk minerality hold true to pourri, fresh parsley, olive and celery aromas are
the finish. —M.K. followed by deft but textured fruit and olive flavors.
91 Potek 2017 Bien Nacido Vineyard Chardon-

nay (Santa Maria Valley). There’s a slightly
abv: 13.7% Price: $32 It brings a lot of freshness for this region. —S.S.
abv: 13.3% Price: $50
yeasty, Champagne-like nose on this bottling, where
hints of sourdough are cut by lemon balm. The pal-
ate is more mineral driven, with crushed seashell
91 Maha 2017 Before Anyone Else (Adelaida
District). From organic grapes, this bottling
shows tangy aromas of tangerine peel and lemon 91 Kerloo 2018 Black Rock Vineyard Syrah
(Yakima Valley). This is a new offering from
zest as well as stony granite and candied melon ele- the winery. The Syrah is blended with 6% Viog-
nier. The aromas announce themselves with notes

of blue fruit, herb and spice. Vibrant, full-feeling
huckleberry and herb flavors follow. Tightly wound
tannins provide support. It needs a bit of time in
90 Kevin White 2018 En Hommage Syrah
(Yakima Valley). The aromas offer appeal-
ing notes of spice, smoked meat, ham hock, flower
93 Kevin White 2018 Pionnier Boushey Vineyard
(Yakima Valley). Grenache makes up 90%
of this wine, but the Mourvèdre that comprises
the cellar to show its stuff, but it’s rare to see this and blue fruit. The palate delivers flavors that show the rest of it almost steals the show. Aromas of pot
kind of quality at this price for the variety. Editors’ elegance and is considerably more restrained than roast, black pepper, raspberry and dark fruit are fol-
Choice. —S.S. the aromas might suggest. —S.S. lowed by palate-coating, outrageous peppery flavors
abv: 14.5% Price: $16 abv: 14.9% Price: $32 that show great depth. It brings as whole lot of tex-
ture, intensity and length. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
91 Kerloo 2017 Les Collines Vineyard Syrah (Walla

Walla Valley). This comes from one of the MOURVÈDRE
abv: 14.9% Price: $40
state’s top Syrah sites. Reserved aromas of rasp-

berry, smoked meat and dried herbs lead to bright,
fresh fruit flavors that bring a sense of elegance. The 95 Kevin White 2018 La Paysanne Mourvèdre
(Yakima Valley). Sourced from a mixture of
92 W.T. Vintners 2017 Rhône Blend Boushey
Vineyard (Yakima Valley). In a change from
recent vintages, this wine is 49% Mourvèdre, fol-
tannins give a gentle squeeze. Allow it some time Boushey, Sugarloaf and Olsen vineyards, the aromas lowed by Grenache (36%) and Syrah. Heaping
to settle in and for the aromas to catch up with the draw you into the glass with notes of peppery spice, amounts of white pepper aromas are followed by
flavors. Pair with grilled lamb with a cherry glaze. bramble, dried herbs and black cherry, showing an notes of herb, orange peel and red fruit. The pal-
Editors’ Choice. —S.S. appealing sense of purity. The palate brings extraor- ate brings elegant but plentiful smoke, white pepper
abv: 14.1% Price: $32 dinary depth, balance, intensity and length to the and bacon fat flavors that show a textured feel. It’s
peppery flavors. It’s nothing short of an accom- a stunner and shows impressive staying power. Edi-
91 Kerloo 2017 Red Willow Vineyard Syrah

(Yakima Valley). This wine comes from
the first vineyard to plant Syrah in Washington.
plishment, with the balance and near endless finish
being what separates it. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 14.8% Price: $38
tors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 14.6% Price: $40
Reserved aromas of fresh herbs, stem and plum are

followed by pure, lip-smacking fruit flavors. There’s
an undeniably appealing sense of freshness and 93 W.T. Vintners 2017 Boushey Vineyard Mourvè-
dre (Yakima Valley). The aromas bring gen-
91 Covington 2016 Lawson May’s Discovery
Vineyard (Horse Heaven Hills). Merlot makes
up half of this wine, with the rest Cabernet Franc
purity. Best after 2023. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. erous notes of freshly ground white pepper, smoked (37%), Cabernet Sauvignon (17%) and Petit Verdot.
abv: 13.9% Price: $57 meat, sauvage, orange peel and raspberry, showing The aromas rise up, with notes of baked raspberry,
complexity and detail. Lithe black pepper and abun- cherry, herb, flower and baking spice. The palate is
91 Two Vintners 2017 Some Days are Diamonds

Discovery Vineyard Syrah (Horse Heaven
Hills). Effusive aromas of plum, flower, purple fruit
dant fruit flavors follow, showing a sense of ele-
gance. The balance is impeccable, the finish lengthy.
It shows great staying power, too, auguring well for
layered and rich with a creamy feel, bringing a lot
of intensity but also keeping it all in balance with
more than enough structure to stand it all up. Edi-
and sagebrush lead to a rich palate, packed to the a good life in the cellar. Pair it with roasted pork loin tors’ Choice. —S.S.
brim with fruit and savory flavors. It shows impres- with a huckleberry compote. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.8% Price: $55
sive intensity and length. —S.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $40
abv: 13.9% Price: $50
91 Kerloo 2018 Lonesome Springs Ranch Mourvè- 91 Full Pull & Friends 2007 CVBDX (Columbia
Valley). This well-aged wine announces
91 Two Vintners 2017 Syrah (Columbia Valley).

This wine is consistently one of the state’s
best Syrah values, and the current vintage does not
dre (Yakima Valley). Mourvèdre is blended
with 7% Grenache. The aromas are restrained, with
notes of raspberry, coffee, dried herbs, smoked meat
itself with aromas of leather, cherry cordial, dried
fruit, mushroom and medicine, showing its age in
a pleasing way. The palate brings a seamless feel to
disappoint. The aromas pop, with notes of huckle- and plum. There’s a sensuous, sumptuous feel to the the cranberry and cherry flavors, supported by the
berry, raspberry compote, orange rind, potpourri palate along with a lovely acidity structure. Purity is impressive acidity of the vintage. It’s in a sweet spot
and red cherry. Pure, palate-coating red fruit flavors put at a premium. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. and an outrageous value for a wine of this age. Edi-
follow, backed by lightly grainy tannins than need a abv: 13.3% Price: $48 tors’ Choice. —S.S.
bit of time to soften. Give it a short decant. Editors’ abv: 14.5% Price: $30
Choice. —S.S.
RED BLENDS
abv: 14.5% Price: $25
91 Pursued by Bear 2016 Bear Cub (Columbia Val-
ley). Barrel notes are upfront, with aromas
91 W.T. Vintners 2017 Gorgeous Destiny Ridge

Vineyard Syrah (Horse Heaven Hills). This
comes from Block 1 at this vineyard. Orange rind,
94 Kevin White 2018 La Fraternite Red (Yakima
Valley). Coming from Upland, Boushey and
Olsen Vineyards, this wine is half Grenache, 41%
of vanilla, cocoa and spice followed by plum and
cherry. A flavorful palate follows, intertwining fruit
and barrel that stay together seamlessly through the
cherry, wet sagebrush, medicine and smoke aromas Mourvèdre and 9% Syrah. The aromas of peppery finish. —S.S.
lead to fresh, tangy cranberry flavors backed by spice, earthy, dried herbs, fresh plum, raspberry, abv: 14.2% Price: $35
grainy, tightly wound tannins. It’s in its shell now smoked meat, black pepper and orange rind rise
and needs time to blossom. Best after 2023. —S.S.
abv: 13.9% Price: $35
up from the glass, showing complexity and a clas-
sic Yakima Valley profile. The flavors explode with
intensity, density, richness and layering along with
90 Kevin White 2017 Heritage DuBrul Vineyard
(Yakima Valley). Cabernet Sauvignon makes
up 57% of this wine, with the rest Merlot. The aro-
91 W.T. Vintners 2017 Grand Côte Boushey Vine-

yard Syrah (Yakima Valley). This is a new
addition to the lineup, coming from a part of this
impressive length. An extended, peppery finish caps
it off. This is a big, broad-shouldered wine that still
maintains a beautiful sense of balance. Editors’
mas are brooding, with notes of cherry, herb, blue-
berry, raspberry, green pepper, smoke and scorched
earth. The palate brings elegant, plentiful, fresh blue
vineyard made famous by McCrea Cellars, the pro- Choice. —S.S. fruit flavors that display a sense of purity and fresh-
ducer that started Washington’s Syrah craze. The abv: 14.9% Price: $32 ness. It’s a pretty, understated wine, showing some
aromas are subdued, with notes of herbs, raspberry, smoke influence that increases over time. —S.S.
citrus and medicine. Smoky, textured flavors follow,
bringing a sense of freshness. It’s part intrigue, part
delivery. —S.S.
93 Eight Bells 2016 David’s Block Red Willow
Vineyard (Yakima Valley). For full review see
page 97. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.1% Price: $40
WINEMAG.COM | 125
BUYINGGUIDE
SPIRITS
93 Appleton Estate 8 Year Old Reserve
(Jamaica; Campari America, New York, NY).
This reserve bottling, released in spring 2020, is
intended to commemorate the 250th anniversary of
the brand. Complex and smooth, look for an amber
hue and mildly funky aroma that mingles banana
Rule-bending rums funk, vanilla and a hint of red fruit. The palate ampli-
fies that fruit, opening with dried cherry, caramel-
O
ized pineapple and vanilla, drifting into a drying fin-
ut of all the spirits categories, rum may rum, and another one-quarter hails from
ish laced with nutmeg, clove and coconut. Best Buy.
have the most Wild West ethos in the Mexico—a pot-stilled 12-year-old aged in used abv: 43% Price: $29
field. That’s proving to be an exciting brandy barrels that adds tones of brown sugar
thing, yielding some wonderful, unusual
bottles to try right now.
and stone fruit. Smaller amounts of rum from
Puerto Rico and Colombia lend complexity. 93 The Rum Cooperative Volume 2 (Carib-
bean; Bully Boy Distillers, Boston, MA). This
delightful tawny sipper opens with aromas of dried
By Wild West, we mean that there seem Another boundary-pushing bottling is a rum
apricot, golden raisin, maple syrup and candied
to be fewer rules, and the regulations that do built using both tropical and continental aging. ginger, finishing long, spiced and a little sticky.
appear seem to be flexible and Until recently, it was generally It almost sips like a spiced rum but it’s not—just
open to a wide range of interpre- understood that spirits aged on a blend of rums from five different rum-making
tation. Rum can be made from There seem to be the continent, namely Scotch or regions, namely Martinique, Panama, Mexico,
Puerto Rico and Colombia, with an age range span-
molasses or sugar cane juice; it fewer rules, and the Cognac, were aged under cooler,
ning eight–12 years and representing various raw
can be made, distilled and aged drier conditions, while spir-
regulations that do materials and distillation methods.
in any number of countries, its aged in tropical conditions, abv: 42% Price: $35
under any number of condi-
appear seem to be usually rum, are aged under
flexible and open
tions; even the interpretation of
age may vary widely depending to a wide range of
hotter, more humid conditions.
While some rum experts
92 Admiral Rodney HMS Princessa (St. Lucia;
Spiribam, Miami, FL). Made with a blend of
rums aged five to nine years in ex-Bourbon and port
on the country of origin. argue that rum should be aged
interpretation. casks. Look for a deep amber hue and creamy, cara-
For example, The Rum Coop- in its country of origin, Cognac melly character from start to finish. Think swirls of
erative Volume 2 stands out as a house Ferrand bends the rules crème brûlée and dulce de leche perked up with a
delicious example of the magic that can happen by transporting tropical-aged rum to France’s bit of ginger on the exhale.
abv: 40% Price: $50
when rules are mutable. It’s a mix-and-match Cognac region for a second aging time. Isle of
triumph. The bulk of the liquid—just over one- Fiji, a nonvintage rum that will become a per-
third—is an eight-year-old rhum agricole from manent part of the Ferrand portfolio, has a car- 91 Saison Rum (France; Romina Foods, Inc., San
Mateo, CA). This light and silky sipper from
Cognac-maker Jerome Tessendier has a pleasing
Martinique, establishing a sturdy base of tropi- amelized fruit profile that should please rum-
cal fruit funk. Roughly one-quarter represents lovers, even though it may agitate lovers of brown sugar and vanilla bean profile. The elongated
finish is laced with cinnamon and nutmeg. Made
a robust molasses-based 12-year-old Panama rules. Cheers! —Kara Newman
with a blend of rums from Barbados, Trinidad and
Jamaica aged up to five years in American white oak,
the blended rum is then finished in Limousin casks
in France’s Cognac region. Best Buy.
abv: 42% Price: $28
96 Admiral Rodney HMS Formidable (St. Lucia;

Spiribam, Miami, FL). Made with rums aged
from nine-12 years, this rich, full-bodied spirit
exploding with juicy grilled pineapple and landing
lightly with vanilla, coconut and cinnamon tones.
Mix into pineapple Daiquiris and Piña Coladas. 90 Dos Maderas Double Aged Rum 5+3 (Spain;
Palm Bay International, Port Washington,
offers brown sugar, caramel and spice aromas. The Distilled and aged two to three years in Fiji, then NY). For full review see page 111. Best Buy.
soft palate balances vanilla sugar and custardy flan another year in the cooler climate of France in ex- abv: 40% Price: $28
with lively citrus, perfect for a dessert pairing. Ferrand Cognac casks. Best Buy.
90 Macorix Gold (Dominican Republic; Vinaio
Imports, Bronx, NY). This rum has a bright
95 Admiral Rodney HMS Royal Oak (St. Lucia;

Spiribam, Miami, FL). This complex sipper
94 Dos Maderas Selección Superior Reserve
Rum (Spain; Palm Bay International, Port
Washington, NY). For full review see page 110.
topaz hue and mild almond aroma. The palate leads
with maple and sticky brown sugar, leading into
an oaky finish accented with a sprinkle of clove.
offers plenty of fruit and spice. Brown butter aro- abv: 42% Price: $60 Best Buy.
mas lead into a concentrated caramel palate framed abv: 40% Price: $15
by hints of dried cherry and orange peel, ending on
clove and smoke. Made with a blend of seven- to
12-year-old rums.
94 Rhum Barbancourt Estate Reserve Aged 15
Years (Haiti; Crillon Importers, Paramus, NJ).
Maple, coconut and honey sweetness, even a hint of 89 Hard Truth Aged Rum (USA; Hard Truth
Distilling, Nashville, IN). This single barrel
abv: 40% Price: $80 cookie dough entice nose and palate, finishing gen- release offers mild honey and allspice aromas, plus
tly with warming baking spice and candied orange a nutty hint. The palate opens with tannic oak and
95 Plantation Isle of Fiji Rum (Fiji; W.J. Deutsch

& Sons, Stamford, CT). The aroma suggests
banana bread drizzled with honey and just a whiff of
peel. Made from fresh sugarcane juice.
abv: 43% Price: $55
shifts into pleasing caramel and brown sugar, fin-
ishing drying with a flurry of cinnamon, clove and
black pepper, plus a toasty hint of pecan.
pineapple. The palate magnifies that tropical note, abv: 41% Price: $40

BEER
94 Maine MO Pale Ale (American Pale Ale; Maine
Beer Co., ME). A pale ale for those with a
sweet tooth. Full of pleasing candied orange, apricot
and peach aromas, there is an overall low bitterness
and a constant caramel- and Pilsner-malt character
that adds a sugary yet crisp note to the overall expe-
Praise for the pale ale rience. Pour into a dimpled mug, pair with a blue
cheese burger from the grill and enjoy the simple
T
things in life.
he American beer renaissance happened has evolved, newer flavors like peach, lemon,
abv: 6% Price: $9/16.9 oz
on the backs of pale ales. As the country’s strawberry and all manner of tropical fruits are
new crops of brewers were founded, they now on the playing field.
turned away from the bland light lagers Perhaps the most famous pale ale in America 93 Great Raft Commotion Pale Ale (American
Pale Ale; Great Raft Brewing, LA). This is
murky yellow in color, but leaves good lacing on the
that had long ruled the shelves, taps and minds is made by Sierra Nevada, which was released
glass. There is a simple elegance to this pale ale that
of beer drinkers across the country. 40 years ago. It was and still is a gateway pint to
relies mostly on orange citrus to carry it from begin-
The brewers found their salvation in hops, craft beer, showing that a little bitterness on the ning to end, but there’s some tropical fruit and a bit
an essential ingredient in beer, but one that finish can be pleasing, and that there is more to of grass in the middle. It shows a good blend of hop
was used sparingly by larger brewers because beer than just easy-drinking lagers. varieties that complement each other.
of the bitterness it lent to reci- Some of the pale ales avail- abv: 5.5% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack
pes. Craft brewers leaned into able today still seem to fol-
The American
hops and began adding more and
more to the recipes. beer renaissance
low the guidelines of the early
style. They pour clear and
93 Surly XTRA Citra Pale Ale (Juicy/Hazy Pale
Ale; Surly Brewing, MN). Bursting with
mango, passion fruit, tangerine, clementine and
Pale ales are typically 6% happened on the amber, with pine and grape- fresh-squeezed guava, this pale ale has enough
alcohol or less and are gener- fruit evident along with cara- prickly carbonation to keep everything fresh. Skip
backs of pale ales. the fruit salad and go for a pint of this.
ally on the lower end of the bit- mel malts—an American style
abv: 4.5% Price: $8/12 oz 6 pack
terness scale. While many have a that can also be called West
pronounced hop character, they should also dis- Coast pale ales.
play a proper use of malts. Toasted and caramel There are more modern versions where the 92 Anderson Valley Poleeko Pale Ale (American
Pale Ale; Anderson Valley Brewing Co., CA).
For full review see page 111.
malts are an obvious choice as the sweetness focus is on the hops but less so on the bitter-
helps balance out some of the hop bitterness. ness. Often unfiltered and usually boasting
In the early days of craft brewing, those pro- fuller fruits, these juicy or hazy pale ales are
ducing pale ales used hop varieties like Cascade, often called New England-style pale ales. 92 Deschutes Wowza! Pale Ale (Juicy/Hazy Pale
Ale; Deschutes Brewery, OR). Craft brew-
ers are looking to broaden appeal to new segments
Chinook, Simcoe, Columbus and others that No matter what you call them, the humble
would impart flavors and aromas of pine, grape- pale ale still remains an excellent starting point of drinkers and several, like Deschutes, are reach-
ing out to the athletic set. This pale ale is bright in
fruit and even earthy hay. As the hop industry for a curious drinker. Cheers! —John Holl
lemon curd and sweet orange tones, balanced by
bready malt. At 100 calories per serving, it’s a not-
too-indulgent reward after a hard workout.
abv: 4% Price: $10/12 oz 6pack
97 Wormtown Rocket Pale Ale (American Pale

Ale; Wormtown Brewing, MA). A miraculous
combination of orange zest, tangerine and apricot is
It is clear that some real care and talent went into
crafting this effervescent pale ale.
91 4 Noses Mountain Wave (Juicy/Hazy Pale Ale;
4 Noses Brewing, CO). This is zesty, savory
and lightly vegetal, with a slight astringency and hop
balanced by a spicy malt note that creates a zippy, burn on the finish. The slightly hazy, golden-colored
refreshing ale. Brewed with specialty rye from a
local maltster, this is the kind of pale ale that locals
are lucky to have access to and beer fans should
95 Wise Man Chosen Vehicle Citra Pale Ale
(Juicy/Hazy Pale Ale; Wise Man Brewing,
TN). Hazy golden in color, this offers soft flavors of
ale has whiffs of tropical fruits and citrus, with just a
little country bread malt to tie it all together.
travel for. lime, clementine, orange, tangerine and a touch of
abv: 5% Price: $11/16 oz 4 pack vanilla sweetness. It’s a modern, juicy beer in all the
best ways, with only a hint of bitterness on the finish. 91 Alaskan Freeride Pale Ale (American Pale Ale;
Alaskan Brewing Co., AK). A prickly carbon-
96 West Sixth Pennyrile Pale Ale (Juicy/Hazy

Pale Ale; West Sixth Brewing, KY). For full
abv: 5.3% Price: $14/16 oz 4 pack ation amps up the combination of caramel malt,
pine, grapefruit and a bit of lemon on the finish.
review see page 111.
abv: 6% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack 94 Cape May Always Ready Pale Ale (Juicy/Hazy
Pale Ale; Cape May Brewing Co., NJ). This
95 Parish Envie Pale Ale (Juicy/Hazy Pale Ale;

Parish Brewing Co., LA). This is hazy and
pale ale has mass appeal and is a welcome respite
from heavier beers that might be hanging about. It’s
refreshing and easy drinking, bright and vibrant,
91 Dustbowl Dirty ’30s Pale Ale (American Pale
Ale; Dustbowl Brewing Co., CA). Loaded with
hops that boast passion fruit aromas and flavors,
bright, with aromas of melon, pineapple and a little with a little bit of grassy pine-hop character that’s this goes down smooth. With very low bitterness on
bit of mango. It offers a good mixture of fruit flavors accented by green onion. The finish brings a pleas- the finish, this is going to please many.
without allowing one to become dominant. That ing bitterness that invites the next sip. abv: 5.3% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack
leads to an enjoyable drinking experience that holds abv: 4.8% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack
the palate’s attention throughout the whole glass.
WINEMAG.COM | 127
A TALE OF TERROIR
THE HEART OF
AUTHENTICITY
Authentic wine is rooted in a place and a time.
T
he special thing about wine is its connection to a particular
place, and to a particular time. Of course, not all wines have
this connection. Some very fine wines are a blend of vintages,
as are some very cheap ones. And some wines are made in such
a way that it’s very hard to know where they came from. But
the important fact here is that for the sorts of wines that I usually like to
drink, and which I enjoy the most, there is a definite connection between
the place and the wine: a local flavor, known widely as terroir.
Much has been written about terroir. All I want to say here, for now, is that
it’s the defining concept in fine wine. If you grow a grape variety (or varieties)
in the appropriate place for these varieties, and your viticulture is good, and
then you don’t mess things up too much in the winery, you will have a wine
that tastes of its place. Some places have more personality than others, of
course: Not all terroirs are created equal. The proof of terroir, though, lies
in the hands of winegrowers who make wines the same way from different
plots, and then the resulting wines show differences that can only be due to
the site. That’s the proof of a concept, and from that starting point we can
keep going, expanding this concept and making it more nuanced. It’s what
makes wine so interesting.
Do all wines have to be terroir wines? No: I think there is a place for
multisite, or multiregion, blends. Vintage Port is the result of skilled blending,
and the top Champagnes are also frequently from multiple vineyards. You
could argue, however, that the skilled blenders are working with good terroirs,
and understand terroir. It creates the components for successful blending.
There’s also the famous example of Penfolds Grange, Australia’s most famous
fine wine and a multisite and multiregion blend. I would argue, though, that
these exceptions don’t call into question my assertion that terroir is at the
heart of fine wine.
And what of time? A wine is not fixed. It is born in a growing season, and
bears the characteristics of the weather of that year. The matrix of vintage
and place is infinite, yet place should be the anchoring point. Vintage, then,
becomes the lens through which we see place, and follow it over time. The
wine develops in the bottle until, eventually, the signature of place is lost
and the wine grows timeless and old. No wine is infinite, and this temporal
quality reflects our own mortality.
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Excerpted from The Goode Guide to Wine: A Manifesto of Sorts by

Jamie Goode, published by the University of California Press. © 2020
by the Regents of the University of California.

Wine Enthusiast September 2020

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RIPE FOR THE DRINKING A

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BITTER FROM THE BEGINNING

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ice to fill glass, and top Amaro Nonino

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 MUSHROOMY  EARTHY  HONEYED  GARLICKY

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chamomile for herbal teas. The third

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FRESCOBALDI TENUTA PERANO,

Submerge onion in bowl of ice water. Let

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