Trichology (Hair science)

Hair is made of protein name keratin. Hair care is an overall term for hygiene and cosmetology involving
the hair which grows from the human scalp. Hair care means taking care and maintaining health of the
hair and scalp. Hair care routines which differ according to an individual's culture and the physical
characteristics of one's hair.

Hair is considered as crown and glory as it enhances ones personality .Care, balanced or nutritious diet,
good health is important for beautiful hair. On an average hair grows 0.5cm every month. Hair grows
faster in summer as compared to winters.

• Diet, Age, Heredity, Genes, Hormones, Stress plays and important part in hair growth

• Hair is an appendage thread like structure outgrowth of skin and scalp

• Hair is known as Crown and glory .Gives pleasing frame for face

Main function or main purpose of hair is protection.

• Scalp hair protects brain ( vital organ) from heat, cold, injury

• Hair helps to maintain or retain moisture on the body ,Eyebrows ,Eyelid

• Hair contains no blood vessel so we can easy chop them without any pain but Hair root is
supplied with rich blood supply

• As man progressed the function of hair as protection reduced

• And hair became part of beauty

• Female hair grows more in length as compared to male

• Scalp hair grow more in length as compared to other hair of the body

• Thick body hair is called androgenic hair because its growth depends on the production of
androgens

• A unisex hormone found in both men and women.

 • Levels of this hormone are significantly higher in men, Male have thicker body hair

• Male have hair on more areas of their body

• While hair styling many factors play different important role like age, caste, religion, family,
profession, hair type, interest and liking

• Good hair builds confidence

• Financial growth ( Profession, education institute, Assessors )

• Style according to gender and profession

How to maintain your hair or follow few tips to have healthy or good hair.
Wash Your Hair Regularly. Washing your hair regularly ensures that your scalp and hair is free of dirt and
excess oil. Hair wash depends on hair type and personal preferences. Dry hair should be washes at least
twice a week. Oily hair should be washed every alternate days. Choose right shampoo (According to hair
type and hair concerns).use shampoo that contains less chemicals. Sulfates and parabens in shampoos
are used for lathering and preserving respectively. But are harsh on hair and can cause skin irritation
over time.

Using conditioner in right way is also very important. Conditioner makes hair manageable. It protects
your hair from environmental aggressors and heat styling. Condition should be applied only on the tips
of the hair and not on your scalp. Also, Make sure to rinse it off thoroughly post application.

Never sleep or go out in wet hair or comb wet hair. Harsh rubbing with a towel can damage the cuticle
of your hair. Handle hair carefully be gentle.

Pre-shampoo treatments like oiling and massaging improve blood circulation on the scalp, relax your
muscles, boost shine and nourish the hair. It also restores moisture content, enables hair growth and
repairs split ends. Coconut oil, almond oil, olive oil, castor oil, argon, morocco oil are beneficial for hair.
Avoid using mineral oil on your hair. Wet hair is fragile and prone to breakage. Let your hair dry and
then use a wide-toothed comb to brush your hair. This kind of a comb prevents damage to your hair

Shampoo and Conditioning

Use right shampoo. Coin size quantity of shampoo should be used. Dilute shampoo apply it on the scalp
and then on the hair shaft.
Rub a small amount of serum through the palm of your hands and then, using two finger.
Gently apply it to the strands using a pressing motion. Do not press the serum directly on the scalp. This
will give hair an oily appearance.

After care

• Use hair caps

• Internal hydration coupled with external hydration is the key to well-balanced and healthy hair.

• The most important component for strong healthy hair is protein.

• Hair is made up of protein so consuming an adequate amount of protein daily is essential

 • Trim your hair every 6-8 week to get rid of split ends

• Split ends form when the hair is damage

• If you don't take care of your hair, it may stop growing after a point. Slowly, you may start
experiencing dandruff, hair fall, dryness and dullness.

• Not washing hair for long periods can cause ingrown hairs.

Reasons of hair damage

Hot Showers

• Hot showers strip off the natural oils from hair scalp leaving it dry and flaky.

Stress

Stress can cause hair fall and unhealthy hair.

Chemicals

• Chemicals from dying, perming and other hair treatments affect your hair follicles, disrupt hair
growth and can also lead to hair fall.

Hair Styling Products

• Heat styling using straighteners, blow dryers and curlers for prolonged period’s changes hair
texture, makes hair dry and prone to breakage.

Salt Water or Hard water Hair Wash

• Salt water damages the hair cuticle, irritates the scalp and makes the hair tangled. Avoid
chlorinated water in swimming pools.

Other reasons of hair damage

• Using wrong hair care products can make you feel itchy and can be reasons od hair damage
 • Hormonal changes

• Atmospheric and climatic change

• Genetic or hereditary

• Lack of vitamins

• Strong antibiotic

• Prolong illness

Hair Type

Oily hair looks slick and greasy. Generally straight and have volume and weight. Sebaceous gland is over
active and secrete more oil making hair look oily. Common causes of oily hair are unhealthy eating
habits, medications, improper hair care, stress, hormonal fluctuations, and change in weather

Use appropriate shampoo which is designed for oily hair .Wash alternate day
Dry hair look dull and brittle, and it's often more prone to damage. No shine, brittle and frizzy. Use a
mild shampoo. Products made specifically to help dry hair will have fewer drying detergents. Use a
conditioner. Choose a moisturizing conditioner. It’ll keep hair cuticles lying flat so they hold in natural
oils. Avoid alcohol. It dries out your hair, so choose hair products without it. Use natural oils. Massage
hair with coconut or jojoba oil. Professional deep conditioning.

Dry and Damage Hair

Damage hair are very delicate and brittle this and be due to loss of moisture. Cuticle layer is destroyed
due to over expose to sun, lots of chemical work, Wrong or more use of harsh products. In such case
cuticle is open which gives ruff texture or feel. If not taken proper care hair break off from middle.
Dry and Damage Hair

Damage hair are very delicate and brittle this and be due to loss of moisture. Cuticle layer is destroyed
due to over expose to sun, more of chemical work, Wrong or more use of harsh products. In such case
cuticle is open which gives ruff texture or feel. If not taken proper care hair break off from middle.

Damage hair

Symptoms- loss of moisture. Excessive dryness or brittleness. Cuticle layer is destroyed or cuticle is open
which gives ruff texture or feel. Excessive use of chemicals .Over washing hair with harsh shampoo.
Wrong use of accessories. Not protecting hair when in sun.

Use hot oil before hair wash. Use shampoo for damage hair. Massage hair with oil before wash use oils
like Argan oil, Moroccan Oil .Use mask after shampoo. Deep conditioning and live on serum to be used
ACTION OF SURFACTANTS IN SHAMPOO

Surfactants gives lather. A surfactant molecule has 2 ends. Hydrophilic – water loving Lipophilic – oil
loving. During the shampoo process the hydrophilic attracts water and lipophilic ends attracts oil. This
creates a pull push action .Oils, dirt and deposits rollup into little balls that is lifted off in the water and
rinsed from the hair.

Chemistry of shampoo

The term surfactant describes organic compound brought together by chemical synthesis to create
wetting, dispersing, emulsifying, foaming or washing agent.

There are 4 types of Surface active agent

• Anionic

• Cationic

• Nonionic

• Ampholyte

Anionic like Sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate are most commonly used surfactants. SLS
is harsh and produces rich foam and works in hard and soft water. SLAS is also strong but is less alkaline.
Other anionic that are commonly used in shampoos are Disodium oleamide sulfosuccinate,Coconut
sulfated monoglycerides.

Cationic the second classification of surfactant. Is made up of Quaternary ammonium compounds. Has
antibacterial properties used in dandruff shampoo as it helps to remove infection. Benazalkonium
chloride is one of the example 0f cationic.
Nonionic is valued as surfactants for their versatility, stability and ability to resist shrinkage, particularly
in cold temperatures. They have a mild action and low incidence of irritation. Mid cleansing action hence
used in daily shampoo. Also in other beauty products Cocamide, Diethanolamide. Cocamidopropyl
betaine.

Ampholyte

The fourth type of surfactant is important commercially because it behave as an anionic or cationic
substance depending on the solution. They have germicidal properties that vary between derivatives.
They are used in baby shampoo as they are non-irritating to skin and eyed.

Cocamidopropyl betaine, Sodium larammopropinonate, TEA Triethanolamine lauraminopropionate.

A familiarity with these 4 classification of surfactant and their use in shampoo products will enable to
make a professional decision when selecting a product to use on a client.

Other shampoo ingredients

Water (Aqua),,Oils, Moisturizers ,Proteins, Preservatives ,foam enhancer, perfumes.

Conditioner

The best conditioner is only temporary remedy for hair problem. It cannot heal damage hair nor can it
improve the quality of new hair growth. However a conditioner is valuable because it can minimize the
damage to the hair during cosmetology service it can restore luster, shine ,manageability and strength
while the damage hair grow long enough to be cut or trimmed .

Function of conditioner is to seal cuticle and to make hair manageable. Gives shine, luster and strength.
It can minimize the damage. Ph of conditioner is 3.5 to 6 .They have ability to restore ph balance.

Instant conditioner

Time 1 to 5 minutes. Instant conditioner contains humectants are chemical compounds that absorbs and
hold moisture from the hair.it locks the moisture. Example Sorbitol, ethylene glycol, butylene glycol and
propylene glycol. Pearlizing agent gives shine, lubricates glossy look example Cetyl alcohol , Stearyl
alcohol. Chemical ingredients of lanolin derivatives such as acetylated lanolin ,lanolin acid or Lanolin oil
is used because of their light molecular weight. Silicone oils such as simethicone and diimeticone are
effective lubricants and emollients.
Moisturizer conditioner

Moisturizers are heavier, creamier formulation than instant conditioners and they have longer
application (To be kept on hair) time.10 min -20.It is a type of deep conditioning. It can penetrates
deeper and have longer staying power. Can give heat after heat application. Steratkonium chloride is
used in moisturizer based conditioners .It counteract the drying effect of harsh shampoo or chemical

Protein conditioners

Proteins are polymers. Setting lotion have protein based conditioners that are part of the hair setting
process. Concentrated protein conditioners can be recognized by their brown liquid appearance. They
help to improve texture, equalize porosity and increase elasticity. Concentrated protein treatments are
generally not given immediately after chemical treatment as this can alter the freshly completed and
desirable rearrangement of protein bonds after chemical treatments.
Packs or SPA cream

They penetrate several cuticle layers and are utilized when an equal degree of moisturizing and
proteinizing is required.

Live on conditioner

Oil or serum base which should be applied on wet hair and leave it

ACIDITY AND ALKALINITY

Potential hydrogen

PH meter ranges from 0 to 14.PH ranging from 1 to 6.9 is acidic.PH ranging from 7.1 to 14 is alkaline.7 is
neutral. Wet hair ph is 4.4 to 5.5

• PH of shampoo is around 8

• PH of neutralizer is 2

• PH of perm lotion is 9

• PH of conditioner is between 3 to 6

Alkaline solution softens and swells hair. Acid solution contracts and hardens hair

Hair type

Hair usually has one of three shape. As it grows out hair assumes the shape, size, and the curve of the
follicle.

Hair type depends on follicle pattern and shape Follicle is like a bag or sack which holds hair. Shape,
structure and position or curve decides the hair type. Each hair has its own follicle. Hair’s curl also
depends on the follicle tunnels into the scalp.

The follicle of curly hair adopts an oval shape. The flatter the oval is, the curlier the hair will
be. Hair's curl also depends n follicle tunnels into the scalp. Follicles of straight hair tunnel vertically
down from the skin's surface into the dermis. If the follicle angles into the dermis then the hair will curve
as it grows causing it wavy.
Straight Hair

• Hair tends to be very soft, thin, shiny, oily, and poor at holding curls, difficult to damage.

• Hair is characterized by volume and body.

• Straight hair develops its structure from the shape of the cortex.

• The fibers of the hair are round, making it drop evenly on all sides of the scalp.

• Straight hair is also determined by its protein structure and the disulfide bonds that occur
between hair proteins.

Wavy hair

Wavy hair has a loose S-shape, but the hair type can share similar qualities to straight hair with a gentle
wave or curly hair with a tight S-shape.
Curly Hair

Curls are of many type .Proper styling and Care is important. Right use of accessories and styling
product makes them look good
Rection of hair

As the hair follicle is set an angel, the hair above the surface of skin slants in one direction or another.
This results in hair stream, whorls and cowlicks.

Hair stream: Hair following in same direction is known as hair stream.it is the result of the follicle sloping
in the same direction. Two such streams, sloping in opposite directions forms a natural parting of hair

Whorl: Hair that forms a circular pattern is known as whorl

Cowlick: A tuft of hair standing up is known as cowlick. It is noticeable at the front hairline.

• Hair is distributed all over the body except on the palms and soles, lips, and eyelid
 • Long hair – Scalp, armpits

• Short hair – Eyebrows, eyelids

• Body hair -Vellus or lanugo – soft – helps in the efficient evaporation of sweat

• Barba – Face

• Cilia - eyelashes

• Super cilia - eyebrows

• Vellus – Body hair

• Cappilli – Scalp hair

.Chemical composition of hair

• Carbon - 50.65%

• Nitrogen – 17.14%

• Sulphur – 5%

• Oxygen – 20.85%

• Hydrogen – 6.36%

Chemical composition of hair varies with its color. Dark hair have more carbon and less oxygen. Light
hair has more oxygen .Chemical composition of hair varies with its color .Dark hair have more carbon
and less oxygen. Light hair has more oxygen
 • Hair shaft - is the part of hair that can be seen above your scalp

• Hair follicle – Bag like structure that holds the hair

• Hair bulb - The hair bulb is the bulb-shaped structure at the base of the hair

• Hair root – it is located s This is where the hair grows

• Hair papilla – cone like structure at the root of follicle. Richly supplied by blood and nerves.
Growth and generation of hair takes place in this part.

• Sebaceous gland - Tiny sack like structure attached to hair follicle

• Arrector pilli muscle - Each hair root is connected to a smooth muscle called the arrector pili
that contracts in response to nerve signals from the sympathetic nervous system

• Arrector pilli muscle is not present on eyelids and eyebrows

Layers of Hair

Cuticle, Cortex, Medulla

Cuticle is the outmost layer of hair it is composed of transparent horny cells which are overlapping
which looks like fish scales and. These cells that point away from the scalp towards the hair ends. This
arrangement is known as imbrications Chemicals raise these scale so that solution enter the cortex
Cuticle protects the inner structure of the hair. There are 5 to 6 layers of cuticles. The thickness of hair
depends on the cuticle layers.

Cortex lies below the cuticle .This portion forms major part of the hair and gives strength and elasticity
to the hair. This part is formed by elongated fibrous tissue and also contains color pigments. Work the
All the chemical work is done in this area.

Medulla is the innermost layer of the hair. This consist of round cells and is like the pithy of the hair.
Medulla is absent in very thin and body hair. Medulla is tighter and stronger in wavy and curly hair
Hair Myth

Shaving, trimming, cutting or singeing have an effect on hair growth

Application of oils

Hair grows after death

Singeing seals the natural oil

Condition of Hair

Sight: Observing the hair gives knowledge about it condition. It contribute 15% of hair analysis

Touch: Feel, touch helps in analysis the exact condition of hair

Hearing: Listening to the hair concerns also helps in understanding the hair condition

Smell: Hygiene condition of client

Quality of hair

Texture: Refers to texture and thickness and feel of the hair. Thickness depends on the diameter of the
hair. Hair can be coarse (thick), Medium, thin or wiry. This depends on the cuticle layer. Feel: Touch or
feel depends on cuticle pattern

Porosity: Is the ability of hair to absorb water. Porosity depends on the condition of cuticle layer. Hair
can have poor, good, or excessive porosity. Excessive porosity is connected with damage hairand

• Elasticity: Is the ability of the hair to stretch and go back to its normal length without breaking

• Hair can stretch up to 1/5 of its length

 • Wet hair can stretch up to 40 to 50%

• Hair have poor, good or normal elasticity

• Each hair goes through hair cycle

• Every hair grows, falls, and is replaced

• Old hair is replaced by new hair

• On an average 60 to 100 hair is loss every day

• Hair rows for 2 to 7 years

• Eyebrows and eyelashes are replaced every 4 to 5 months

Anagen

• Growing stage of hair is known as Anagen

• Hair grows to its full length

• Anagen to Anagen is known as hair cycle

Catagen

• This phase is also known as transitional phase

• Once the hair is ready to replace changes start occurring in the follicle

• The is detached from the base f the follicle

• Hair bulb breaks

• Follicle shrinks

• This phase lasts for 2 weeks

Telogen

This phase is also known as resting phase

• Follicle rest

• This phase last for 4months

• After the resting period is over follicle takes its original place

• Cell growth form new hair bulb

• Hair start growing again the hair goes in Anagen stage

• Old hair is pushed out

 •

Hair color

• The formation of melanin begins before birth.

• Heredity

• Genes

• Pigments present in cortex layer

• Depth of the color depends on the amount of pigments present in cortex layer

• Hair color is the pigmentation of hair follicles due to two types of melanin: eumelanin and
pheomelanin.
 • More eumelanin is present, the color of the hair is darker;

• If less eumelanin is present, the hair is lighter.

Canities – Technical term used for grey hair

• Congenital canities exists before birth

• Acquired canities after birth

• Reasons

• Prolong illness

• Stress, worries, tension

• Age

• Heredity

• Chemical

• Hormonal changes

• Imbalanced diet

• Antibiotic

• Sudden shock, Anxiety

• Nervous break down

• Excessive use of hair color

• Excessive hair growth is known as Hirsuites / Hpypertrichosis

Hormonal changes is the main reason. Depilation, Waxing, Tweezing, Electrolysis is the best solution

Hair loss

On an average every person loses 50 to 100 hairs daily .More than this indicates hair loss.

Reasons of hair loss

• Heredity

• Hard water

• Chemical treatment
 • Hot rollers, Dryer, Tong

• Illness, stress, tension, Antibiotic

• Ponytails

• wrong use of accessories

• Improper balanced diet

• Lack of vitamins

• Poor blood supply

• Improper care

• Chlorinated water

• Infection

Dandruff

Dandruff is an Infection. It is can condition of dryness of scalp. There can be two types of dandruff Flaky
or greasy dandruff

• Dry – Pityriasis capitis simplex

• Oily – Pityriasis steatoids – Scalp is excessive oily, bigger flaky

Reasons of dandruff

• Wrong use or shampoo and conditioner not properly rinsed off

• Lack of nourishment

• Excessive sweating

• Tension

• Climatic changes

• Drugs

• Hyperacidity

• Shampoo containing Selenium sulphide, salicylic acid, resorcinol and precipitated Sulphur are
best

• HBU 150 has antiseptic properties and thus prevent dandruff

 •
Alopecia

Alopecia means balness.it can occur in men and women. But it is most common in men and rare in
women.

Symptoms- Severe hair loss ,thinning

Different types of Alopecia

• Alopecia totalis – Total loss of hair all over body. Is due to metabolic disturbance.Side effects
of medicine or product.

• Alopecia senilis – baldness due to old age

• Alopecia premature – Baldness before forty. Tension, Thyroid, Contraceptive pills, Humid
climatic changes, spicy and oily food, Hormonal changes.

• Alopecia areata is an autoimmune disorder that usually results in unpredictable, patchy hair
loss.
Trichorrhexis nodosa : Nodular swelling along its shaft. Trichorrhexis nodosa is a defect in the hair shaft
characterized by thickening or weak points (nodes) that cause the hair to break off easily.
Monilethrix : Beaded hair. Monilethrix is a rare hereditary hair shaft disorder with beaded hair shafts.

Fragilitas crinium : Brittle hair

Fragilitas crinium is a splitting of the hair shaft, can be the result of prolonged exposure to sunlight,
chemical and physical processes.

TRICHOPTILOSIS
• Loses moisture as cuticle is open

• Severe dryness

• Delicate

• Chemical treatments

• Over exposer in sun