ANIMALS

26.05.2020

BUILDING A BASE PATTERN

IS THE MOST
UNDERSTANDABLE WAY (FOR
BEGINNERS). TECHNICAL
DESIGN AND MODELING
MODELING DESIGN OF
CLOTHING PATTERN

Design is the process of modeling drawings of product

parts and making patterns (cuttings). Patterns are patterns
of clothing details by which materials are cut; they can be
made of paper, cardboard, metal.

The design structure of the product is made of individual

parts, tied into a single harmonious whole.

The problem of forming, which is solved in the design of

clothes, is the creation of a complex volumetric shape of
the product in flat materials - fabrics, knitwear, etc. The
volumetric shape of the product during the development of
the structure should be deployed on the plane, in order to
obtain a reamer, the surface of clothing is pre-cut into the
parts. The lines of division of clothes into parts are located
along the lines of symmetry, the boundaries of areas with
different nature of the surface. Thus, the vertical line of
asymmetry divides the figure into left and right halves, the
lines of the shoulder and side seams separate the chest area
of the body from the dorsal part, the neckline and armrest
from the neck and arms.

Industrially created clothing must have properties that meet

the highest consumer requirements imposed on it as an
object of personal use. At the same time, clothing is
required as an object of mass production - its shape should
be rational in terms of the possibility of using engineering
methods of its design and advanced industrial methods of
its manufacture.

Therefore, the design of clothing proceeds from the

following important requirements for its design.

1. The design should ensure the reproduction of the product

in exact accordance with the primary sample. The
conformity of the model's products in shape, silhouette,
structural lines, Finishing depends on the accuracy of the
patterns, so special attention is paid to their shape and size
when design.

2. The design should contribute to the creation of the most

important functional properties of clothing - compliance
with the shape and size of the human body, ease of use,
ensuring comfortable conditions for the human body,
increasing its wear resistance, increasing service life, etc.

In order for the size of clothing to correspond to the

measurements of people's figures, the size characteristics of
the most common typical figures are used in the
development of the design. The size characteristics of
typical figures of men, women, boys and girls used in
clothing design are given in industry standards. A good fit
of the product on the figure is laid down in the design
drawings and depends on the correctness of the relevant
calculations.

The convenience of use of the product and the creation of

comfortable conditions for the human body depend on the
correct development of clothing designs - taking into
account body measurements, the choice of allowances for
free fit, shape, size and mutual arrangement of parts,
location of the clasp, pockets, taking into account the most
important hygienic properties of clothing materials

When developing the design, external loads acting on

individual components and parts of clothing and causing
distortion of its shape are taken into account. Therefore, in
each case, they choose such a constructive scheme of the
product, such a division of it into parts, under which the
conditions of "work" of parts and materials in all areas of
clothing are most favorable. To increase the wear resistance
of clothes, the designer must provide various additional
parts that take part of the external loads on themselves (on-
board gasket in coat shelves, jackets, jackets, lining of the
front halves of trousers, gasket or braid at the edges of the
products and in the folds of parts - the edges of the sides,
low trousers, etc.).

3. The design of clothing should ensure the economic

feasibility of the product in mass production, the design of
clothing should be economical and technological.

Since the share of materials in the cost of clothing is at least

85-90%, the problem of reducing the material intensity of
products is important. The design of the product is
economical, which provides for both minimal consumption
and minimal waste of materials.

Technological is the design of clothing, which provides for

minimal labor costs for the manufacture of the product due
to the use of the most advanced technology with high
productivity and high quality products. The
manufacturability of the structure depends on the continuity
of models, typing, unification, standardization of structural
elements, improvement of the design, etc. The continuity of
models lies in the use of previously developed part design
options in new models. It is implemented when developing
a "family" of models on one constructive basis. Typing -
replacement of the variety of structural solutions of
products with the minimum required number of standard
structures. The use of standard designs contributes to the
improvement of clothing technology and material savings.
The standard design without compromising the appearance
and quality of the product can be unified, i.e. lead to
uniformity of individual components and parts, such as
pocket parts, gaskets, etc. Normalization and
standardization - establishment of uniform norms for values
for unified parts. The design is usually improved by
eliminating some seams, for example, at the edges of the
sides, collar, front seam of the sleeves.

Currently, there are many clothing design systems. Existing

design methods, which are decisive in the product design
process, are divided into approximate and engineering.

Approximate design methods include calculation, graphic

and other methods. All these methods, based on the use of
anthropological measurements of figure and allowances, do
not provide high accuracy and manufacturability in
accordance with the requirements of modern clothing
production.

Engineering methods of designing the revelations of

clothing parts are more advanced and accurate. They are
based on measuring the surface of the standard of clothing,
as well as taking into account the dressing capacity of
clothing materials. Engineering methods can obtain scans
of clothing parts of complex shape without resorting to a
large number of seams, darts and forced wet and heat
treatment of fabrics.

The most common calculation and graphic methods, the

essence of which is to perform simple calculations to
determine the size of patterns and build drawings of
construction according to the obtained values. Each system
has a certain number of formulas and their structure (the
first group includes formulas that determine the size of the
part taking into account the dimension feature and increase;
the second group includes formulas that determine the
dimensions of parts by dimensions not related to this parcel
by establishing a relationship between the size of this part
section and one or two dimensions of the figure; the third
group includes formulas by which the dimensions of
individual parcels are determined by the dimensions of
other parcels previously found in the drawing).

The Unified Methodology of Clothing Design (EMCO

SEV) was created jointly by specialists from the CEV
member countries. It reflects optimal constructive solutions
from the experience of socialist and advanced capitalist
countries. The scientific basis of this technique is the
results of joint anthropometric studies of computational and
analytical methods of building clothing reamers and a
complex of scientifically based allowances. This technique
is universal, as it can be used to develop the design of
clothes of all types, cuts, purposes, from various materials.

In addition to calculation and graphic, there are row

engineering methods of clothing design, more accurate and
convenient, based on solving the geometric problem of
dressing curved surfaces with flat materials. These
methods, taking into account changes in the geometric
structure of clothing materials while fitting the surface,
contribute to improving the design and automating the
design of clothing using computers.

Improvement of product design methods is impossible

without detailed information about the shape and size of the
surface, both typical figures and clothing. The standards
provide quantitative indicators (dimensional features) of
typical figures. Nooni do not give an idea of plastic
samples of selected typical figures, about the curvature of
individual parts of the body. For example, two figures of
the same sex and age group with the same breast girth may
have different shapes of the body surface in this area,
different posture. And information about the shape of the
surface of the figures is decisive for the development of the
design of high-quality products.

Therefore, the improvement of the quality of products

should be carried out by restructuring the process of their
design, revision, and the principles of shaping. A
comprehensive solution to this problem is possible with the
layout and model method of clothing design. This method is
based on the use of sculptural models of the shape of the
surface of clothing, which excludes the performance of
time-consuming operations on depicting the surface on
paper, the production of a large number of drawings. It
allows you to significantly reduce the time of clothing
design and reveals ample opportunities for the use of
mathematical computer design methods.

The use of computers in clothing design is very effective at

its final stages (drawing and technical reproduction of
patterns, performance of complex engineering calculations,
etc.). In recent years, when designing clothes using
computers, the transition has been made from performing
individual engineering calculations to the creation of
integrated computer-aided design systems (CAD).

The inner form of clothing and its linear measurements are

distinguished by the shape and size of the human body. As
a rule, any dimension of clothing is larger than the
corresponding size of the figure by some amount called a
allowance. The allowance is given for free fit and
decorative design of clothes. The form of clothing,
silhouette, compliance with the sample largely depend on
how correctly the allowances are selected and set when
developing its design.

Corset products (beam, bra, etc.) should fit very tightly to

the body. The shape and size of such products are equal to
the corresponding dimensions of the body, and sometimes
smaller than them, as a result of which these products
deform certain areas of the figure (birth, chest), giving it
greater slimness.

The rest of the products fit the body unevenly: in some

areas it is more or less dense, and in others - freely. Thus,
the shoulder products fit tightly in the upper part, on the so-
called supporting surface of the body (shoulders, upper
chest and back to the most protruding points of the chest
and shoulder blades); on these areas, the walk is most
consistent with the shape and size of the body. Below the
support surface of the clothing is located freely, forming an
air layer necessary for human freedom of movement,
regulation of heat exchange and creation of shape and
silhouette in accordance with the model.

Free fit allowances are provided both in width of the

product (on the lines of the neck, chest, waist, hips,
armhole, neck, etc.) and in length. The values of the free fit
on different areas of clothing are not the same and depend
on the type of clothing, model (siluette, shape, artistic
design), properties of materials (stretching, elasticity,
molding properties), etc. The values of allowances for free
fit on various areas of clothing are given in the design
methods.

The free fit allowance can be conditionally presented

consisting of two parts: the minimum necessary free fit
allowance and decorative and structural. The minimum
allowance for free fit, regardless of the degree of fit, should
ensure freedom of breathing, human movements, minimum
pressure on the body, the presence of an air layer for skin
breathing and heat transfer regulation. The values of this
allowance are established on the basis of studies of
changing the size of the body in dynamics and the study of
the parameters of the microcationclimate of the clothing
layer at different values of air layers. So, this breastline
allowance for a dress, jacket and jacket is 2.5 cm, for a coat
- at least 5-6 cm. With the help of a decorative and
constructive allowance, a certain silhouette and the
necessary volumetric and spatial uniform are created.

When developing the design, it is mandatory to provide for

a allowance for the thickness of clothing materials: basic,
gasket, heat protection. Allowances for free fit along the
lines of the chest, waist, hips are summed up with the
allowance for the thickness of materials and receive
composite allowances. The amounts of composite
allowances installed for each type of clothing depending on
fashion.

In addition to composite allowances, the design of clothing

provides for seam allowances, bending the edges of clothes.
When developing the design of products, it is necessary to
take into account the possible shrinkage of the material in
the process of making clothes. To this end, the length of the
product and individual parts of the structure are increased
by the size of the allowance for the production of the fabric
equal to 50% of the total shrinkage of the material. So, if
the total shrinkage of the fabric is 2%, the fabric production
allowance is 1% of the length of this section of the
structure.

The overall dimensions of the product and the dimensions

of its parts in different areas (on the lines of the chest,
waist, hips, bottom) are laid in the basic grid of the base
drawing. The most important lines of the mesh are:
horizontal - the lines of the neck of the back, chest (depth
of the armhole); waist, hips, bottom of the product; vertical
- the line of the middle of the back, lines that determine the
width of the back, shelf, and the half-zanos line that
coincides with the axis of symmetry of the torso of the
human figure. The distances between these lines in the
drawing are determined depending on the measurements of
the figure and the corresponding allowances. When posting
the drawing of the base, contour lines of parts, lines of
darts, cuts, pockets, etc. are applied to the resulting grid.

The upper contour lines are the neck of the back (the line of
connection of the collar with the back of the product), the
shoulder cuts of the back and shelf, the armhole (line of
connection of the sleeve with the product), the neck of the
shelf (the line of connection of the collar with the shelf).
The inability of building these lines depends on the fit of
the product on the figure. The shape and size of the upper
contour lines should correspond to the shape and size of the
human body, since the upper part of the product should fit
tightly to the supporting surface.

The parameters of the back neckline are calculated based

on the measurement of neck circumference. For a good fit
of the figure, the upper part of the back of the product
should have a shape corresponding to the bulge of the
shoulder blades. Therefore, in the shoulder cut of the
backrest, it is envisaged to create a convexity by dart or
planting the fabric by forced ironing.

The quality of the fit of the product on the figure is directly

affected by the mutual arrangement of the upper contours
of the back and shelf. The ratio of the back level at the neck
point and the level of the shelf at the top of the neck is the
most important element of the structure and is called
balanction, which characterizes the balance of the front and
back parts of the product. The balance is calculated
according to the formulas depending on the measurements
of the figure: chest girth, neck, distances from the base
point of the neck to the waist of the speredi and at the back.
The balance can be both positive and negative, and
according to this, the point of the top of the neck can be
located higher or lower. If the balance is correctly
calculated and provided for in the drawing, the product is
placed on the figure, its backrest does not tighten each
other in front.

The convex shape of the shelf in the chest area is given

with the help of darts and wet-thermal treatment. In
women's clothing, the dart can be provided in the shoulder,
side cuts, armhole, and its inner end (top) is located at the
protruding point of the chest. In men's clothing, the dart is
located in the neckline and provides for the ironing of the
shelf on the edge of the product.

The armhole line, its shape, size and location in many way
determine the quality of the clothing design. The correct
construction of this line ensures freedom of movement of
hands, ease of putting on and removing clothes, as well as
beautiful sleeve tension with the product.

The half-sanos line in the shelves of women's clothing is as

a rule, vertical. In men's clothing, the shape of this line is
different and depends on the provided wet-heat treatment to
form the necessary bulge in the chest area, on the size and
completeness of the figure. In the upper part, above the line
of the depth of the armhole, the half-snos line is deflected
towards the armhole due to the curvature of the thoracic
contour of the figure and the projected ironing of the shelf.

The shape of the middle back line is designed depending on

the type of clothing and the presence of a seam in the
middle of the back. If the back of the product is intact, the
middle back line is vertical and straight, as it must match
the thread of the fabric base. In products that should fit the
figure in the area of the blades, waist and ibeder, the middle
back line is built with a bevel (decend) along the waistline.

The shape and location of the side seams in clothes are

determined by its appearance, silhouette, the presence of
darts, sleeve cover. Regardless of these factors, the side
seams should be located sheerly in the finished product. In
products with adjacent and semi-adjacent silhouettes, the
shape of the side cuts of the shelf and back is curved,
corresponds to the contours of the figure, and in the
products of straight and loose silhouettes the side cuts are
straight.

In the clothes of the adjacent and semi-adjacent silhouettes,

the difference in the width of the product along the chest
and waist lines is evenly distributed into the side seams and
darts on the waist line, the width of the product along the
hip and bottom lines is determined depending on the
silhouette.

The shape of the sleeve in the finished form should

correspond to the forma of the hand, and it is determined by
the shape of the concave line of the front bend and the
convex line of the elbow fold. The same sleeve shape can
be obtained from one, two or three parts that make up it.
Single-seam sleeves (consisting of one part) are
characteristic of linen, light clothes; they design one seam -
front or elbow. The double-seam sleeve consists of the
upper and bottom or front and back parts and has front and
elbow or upper and bottom seams, respectively. This sleeve
is most common in outerwear. Both parts of the sleeves are
built on a 6-day drawing so that they match each other in
shape in size. The three-seam sleeve has three seams -
upper, lower and elbow. The most important thing in the
drawing of the sleeve is its upper part - roll. The roll must
correspond to the shape and size of the armpit. For a good
fit with the sleeve, the place of articulation of the arm with
the torso along its rim, the material is provided, for which
the perimeter should be larger than the perimeter of the
armhole. The difference in the perimeters of the roll and
armpit (cloth fit) depends on the forma of the roll and
model, as well as on the properties of the material.

The connection line of the collar with the product is called

the cut-off line of the collar stand. It is taken as the basis
for drawing the lower collar; its perimeter should be equal
to the sum of the lengths of the neck of the back and shelf.
The position of the collar in the product depends on the
shape of the rack cut line: the straighter it is, the more
adjacent the collar (stand-up collar) fits to the neck. If the
shape of the rack cut coincides with the shape of the neck,
the collar will be flat (recumbent). The widths of the collar
and the shape of its ends depend on the model. The shape
and line of the jacket collar must correspond to the shape of
the neck and the lapel fold line.

The patterns of the main parts are made according to their

drawings, providing seam allowances, bending in
accordance with the requirements of regulatory and
technical documentation and the requirements of the model.
In areas where wet-heat treatment of fabric (pulling,
ironing, etc.) is necessary or creases, assemblies are
provided, appropriate signs are placed. Control signs are
placed on the sections of parts at the places where they are
connected, which must be combined when connected.
According to the obtained patterns of the main parts, the
patterns of derived parts (top collar, chin, pocket parts,
linings, etc.) are made, taking into account the allowances
for processing.

The developed design is checked by manufacturing

according to the obtained patterns of the control sample of
the product. In the process of manufacturing the sample,
the necessary clarifications are made to the design in
accordance with the progressive methods of technological
processing of the product and the figure of the mannequin.
Then, according to the specified patterns of medium size
and height (length), patterns of all other sizes and lengths
of products (technical reproduction of patterns) are made.
Patterns of all sizes and heights are obtained in proportion
to reduce or increase the size of patterns of medium size
and height. In technical reproduction, the patterns for the
transition of size to size or from height to height to cuts of
patterns of medium-sized and growth parts give certain
interdimensional and intergrowth increments.

The design of clothes is completed with the development of

technical descriptions (technical conditions) for the model.
Technical descriptions include the following sections:
sketch and description of the appearance of the product;
recommended dimensions and lengths; list of
recommended materials, including finishing and fittings
(specification and confection map); table of measurements
of the ready-made product, which contains the absolute
values for the main places of measurement of the finished
product and tolerance deviations from them; recommended
methods of processing individual complex components of
the product; technical requirements for the quality of
manufacture of the product; tables characterizing the
complexity of processing; rules for checking the quality,
determining the grade of the product, packaging and
transportation of the product (list of technical
documentation). In addition, the technical descriptions
provide: the rate of waste of materials on a medium-sized
and length product; specialization of parts and patterns;
table of measurements of patterns; area of patterns of
medium-sized and length products.

Technical descriptions together with a set of patterns and a

sample colon of the product are sent to the enterprise for
circulation.

The methods used in the industry of designing knitwear are

mainly similar to the methods of designing fabric products.
The main distinctive properties of knitwear are not only
stretchability, but also great opportunities for forming.
Thanks to the movable loop structure, the fabric easily
takes a complex spacious shape in the product. The change
in linear dimensions (longitudinal and transverse) of knitted
fabrics (sluffocation) is due to many factors related to the
characteristics of the fabric itself (composition and quality
of raw materials, structure of the fabric), with the technical
regimes of its production, finishing and storage, with the
technological processes of preparation of the fabric for
production and directly with the cutting and manufacture of
products. All these features should be taken into account
when developing designs of knitwear products.

In the conditions of mass production, the solution of issues

related to the specifics of the properties of knitted fabrics is
carried out mainly on the basis of extensive practical
experience. On the other hand, the knowledge accumulated
as a result of scientific research and the extensive
capabilities of CAD create prerequisites for the
development of the process and methods of standard
multivariate design of upper knitwear.

Defects in the design of clothing primarily affect the

appearance of the product and the quality of its fit on the
figure. It is extremely difficult to eliminate such defects,
sometimes it is redesigned into a product of smaller sizes or
other types.

All possible defects in the design can be grouped as

follows: non-compliance of the product with the approved
sample; defects in the fit of the product on the figure;
violation of the economy and manufacturability of the
product.

The discrepancy between the design of the product and the

approved sample is manifested in the design and decorative
lines (location, direction, configuration, etc.), the
discrepancy between the linear dimensions of the product
as a whole and its details with the technical descriptions of
the model.

The causes of defects in the fit of the product on the figure

are the non-compliance of the shape of the product with the
shape of the human body. The product forms wrinkles,
creases - transverse, longitudinal, inclined.

Transverse folds occur with excessive length, as well as

insufficient width of parts. For example, transverse folds on
the back of the product, on the swiring of the sleeve, on the
clasp and side seam of the trousers - due to excessive
length and insufficient width of these parts.

With excessive width or insufficient length of clothing

parts, longitudinal folds are formed. They most often
appear on the back along the middle seam, at the armhole
of the back and shelves, in the sleeves of raglan, in the rear
halves of trousers at the side seams, in the area of the clasp
of trousers, etc.

Inclined folds (halls) can occur at the side seams, in the

annium of products due to the excessive length of the
corresponding cuts of parts. The creases are also formed by
the pellet, elbow seams of the sleeves, the step seams of the
trousers, etc. The cause of the saloms may also be
insufficient ironing of volumetric parts (shells, backrests).

Defects in the fit of clothes on the figure occur when the

balance of the product is disturbed. When the balance is
reduced, the back of the product "weighs" in front, while
the side seams are shifted forward, the collar behind the
neck lags behind, the shelves go one by another, larger than
provided for in the model. When the balance increases, it
"pulls" in front of the product, the side seams are shifted
back, the collar fits excessively to the neck at the back, the
product at the front fits the legs, the shelves at the bottom
diverge.

The non-equilibrium position of the sleeves in the product,

i.e. their deviation forward or backward, may be the result
of the incorrect location of the control signs (slashes) along
the armhole and skewing of the sleeves in the development
of the design of the product.

Balance disorders in trousers appear by increasing the

length of some parts relative to others. This creates
transverse folds on the front and rear polo backs of the
trousers.

The development of uneconomical and non-technological

designs leads to serious losses in mass production of
clothing. The uneconomical design causes high material
consumption and significant inter-theque losses due to
inconvenience in the layout of patterns, as a result of which
the cost of products increases. In case of violation of the
manufacturability of the structure, the labor intensity of
processing the product increases, labor productivity
decreases, which leads to an increase in the cost of
processing the product.

Hardworking - bright light burns through life, lazy - dim

candle

Building a base pattern is the

MOST UNDERSTANDABLE
WAY (for beginners)
Good Afternoon! I would even say a beautiful day. Because
we are finally starting a series of articles on tailoring for
adults. We have already sewed a lot of things for little girls
- and the dress and bodysuits are different - now we will
sew for big girls. That is, for yourself. And since you and I
have already trained sewing, the pioneer's fear has passed.

SO IT'S TIME TO TAKE A NEW LINE. And to master

the wisdom of sewing according to real adult patterns with
your own hands and with your brains. We will draw the
base pattern ourselves - in a new easy way (I spent more
than one week to create this lightweight method of building
a base pattern). And then we'll sew a bunch of dresses, tops
and tunics.

NO, I WON'T GIVE YOU A SINGLE

FINISHED PATTERN!

I'm not Madame Burda. I'm Madame Klishevskaya.))) And

the main harm of my character is... That I will make your
head work and give birth to bright and clear discoveries in
the field of sewing. The easiest and most understandable of
all kinds of arts. Believe me, that's right.

YES, IT'S VERY EASY AND SIMPLE TO

SEW YOURSELF!

Right from scratch, you will get more and more beautiful
and well-sewn things.

And you will do everything yourself, without a state of

hypnosis, but in a sober mind and bright memory. YOU
will DO it - moreover, you will UNDERSTAND exactly
what you are doing.

I'll tell you the secrets I know. Moreover, I will teach you
how to discover more and more secrets of the world of
sewing and modeling clothes.

I will not lead you (blind and stupid) by the pen in the
chaos of letters and numbers indicating the intricacy of
numerous lines of the drawing. NO, I WON'T LEAD
YOU HERE:

Well, you will agree, one such picture can catch up with
fear and make doubt her own abilities of a girl who really,
really wants to sew a dress - but was very unfriendly in
her school years with geometry and drawing. Even I -
who adore both of these school subjects - walked around
the bush for several years - not daring to start delving into
the construction of such a drawing: "How long it will take
to draw this and after all, you need to calculate everything
correctly and not get confused in letters..."

And yet, today we will draw a pattern.

We will draw a base pattern (you can see a piece from it

from above.))))

But - do not rush to be scared - we will create our pattern a

little differently. Away from the engineering method - and
closer to human understanding.

We will draw with you one - only one - pattern.

And then we will create more and more models of dresses

from it. And it will be very easy and simple.

No incomprehensible formulas
No confusing calculations.
And without a letter-cipheral web.