PATTERN MAKING

INTRODUCTION

Patterns are the component of the garment that would be put together with seams to produce the

style. Pattern drafting and cutting is an exciting craft when students become aware of basic

principles and learn to apply these principles to generate garment component or the unlimited

design ideas in the field of fashion. The instructions in this manual will give students practical

experience of working with the actual reality of the 3D form through drafting.

Methods of pattern making

Drafting and flat pattern making techniques are basically the two main methods of obtaining

patterns for garment construction. Draping is an artistic approach in which the designer makes

her pattern by fitting cloth to the curves of a form. Drafting is an engineering type method based

on a set of body measurements. In drafting, block patterns are used as basis for cutting a number

of different garments whose construction is similar, but in which there are possibilities of a

number of styles features. Drafting is using the body measurement to construct the garment

patterns. This is widely used for fitting garments as well as garments with complicated designs.

Pattern types used in apparel industry

Types of Pattern Used in Apparel Industry:

There are mainly two types of patterns used in readymade apparel sector which are mentioned

below:

1. Basic block or block pattern used in apparel industry,

2. Working pattern or apparel pattern.

1. Basic block or block pattern:

Basic block or block pattern is an individual component of apparel without any design or style. It

can be made into two ways such as modeling and flat method.

a. Modeling:

Modeling is a primary and first method. Still it is widely used in apparel industry. In modeling

method, block is made with standard body measurement of dummy which is known as toile.

Toile is worn on the body of dummy to check fittings. After that, toile is worn out from the body

of dummy and individual parts of toile are drawn on board paper or hard paper. This method is

most efficient but needs more time.

b. Flat method:

In case of flat method, the pattern of different parts of apparel especially body and sleeve are

made by technical drawing. Actually, this method comes from modeling method and by this

method fast pattern making is possible.

2. Working pattern or apparel pattern:

Apparel pattern is made on the basis of basic block or block pattern. Individual block pattern is

drawn on board paper or hard paper. Different types of allowances i.e. trimmings allowance,

sewing allowance, bottom line, center front line, pleat, drat is considered in this type of pattern.
Pattern Cutting

The first stage in the manufacture of garments is the cutting of the materials into the necessary

pattern shapes. This can be achieved by adopting suitable method that pattern cutters have to

analyse very carefully, especially, the working style and decide which method is best for creating

a pattern for the particular style. The pattern cutter can choose either to work from block pattern

or to use calico and create the pattern directly unto the dress stand, i.e. draping or modelling. The

pattern cutting techniques are not exclusive to one style, and different methods may be employed

in different section of the garment.

Pattern cutting is a means of achieving a shape around the body so that although the body

remains constant, the outlines of clothes often change dramatically in different period of fashion.

Though designs were made by draping fabric around a dress stand, drafting pattern is now

widely used by the garment producers because of its accuracy of sizing and the speed with which

complicated designs can be constructed. Today many designers and pattern cutters use a mixture

of techniques to achieve the final pattern. The most essential for the pattern cutter is to

understand thoroughly not only the techniques of creating a pattern but also must have thorough

knowledge of how the garment is assembled by the machinist.

Block Patterns

Patterns of all garments in most general wear can have their basic block patterns using standard

measurements. The basic blocks will be constructed in such a way as will render them adaptable

to various style changes and modifications. On these patterns certain construction lines should be

marked clearly. There are some lines that are important to the cutter when marking out on the

cloth. They act as guides and give the scope for checking balance, fit, and style. Block pattern is
a foundation pattern constructed to fit an average figure. The designer uses a foundation pattern

(block) as a basic for making the pattern for a design. She may introduce style lines, tuck,

gathers, pleats or drapes but still the basic fit of the pattern will conform to the block used.

Pattern Making skills

Pattern drafting skills start from acquiring knowledge of the required measurements and the

sizing system. Students should have knowledge of the procedures of taking body measurement of

women, children and men. The vital measurements should include chest/bust, waist hip, sleeve

length and neck size.

Learners should have knowledge of the materials tools and equipment required for drafting. The

basic materials include plain papers, pen and pencils, measuring tools, straight edge, curves,

mathematical set and calculators. Students can now learn the drafting of blocks for simple

children’s wear, women and men’s wear. The basic blocks are bodice, skirt and sleeve.
Students on pattern making and design programme should work through about 10 exercises at

their own pace. The teacher is required to demonstrate and explain each lesson and then help as

questions come up or when further demonstration is needed. This allows each student to proceed

to the next exercise when they are ready and fully comprehend the previous work. The

techniques learned can be applied to women, men, and children’s wear. It is a good practice to let

students sew exercises in muslin at their own time homework. The students should know the

basic starting point to learn the fundamentals of pattern making.

DEFINITION OF TERMS

BLOCK PATTERN: it is a foundation pattern consisting of two or more parts, constructed to fit

an average figure.

BASIC BLOCK: is the foundation block on which the styles of the garment are built. This block

contains the front and the back bodice.

BODICE: is the part of the pattern from the shoulder to the waist line

BUNDLE: of materials (patterns and trimmings) tied together for sewing.

CAD: Computer Aided Design or Computer Aided Drafting

DEPTH OF SCYE OR ARMHOLE DEPTH: is the distance from nape of neck to the armpit

level measured in the center back. This can also be obtained by dividing the bust into 4 and

deduct 2cm i.e (1/4 bust/chest minus 2cm)

FLOUNCE: Strip of cloth varied in width, cut straight or bias, shirred or pleated, applied to a

garment with the lower edge left free to flare.

GODET, GORE/ GUSSET: a tapering or triangular piece of cloth inserted for extra width or

flare.

LAY: it is the plan of the pieces as they are placed on the fabric for cutting.

MARKER: plan of the pattern pieces as they are placed on the broad sheet. It is placed on the of

the ply. The marker is used in bulk cutting of garment in mass production.

NETT PATTERN: finish patterns without seam allowance.

PANEL: introduction of sections vertically into the garment

SCYE: is the armhole on the block pattern,

SKIRT: the part of the dress from the waist to the bottom or hem

SQUARE: drawing lines at 90 to the point

TAILORED SKIRT: the skirt that would not be attached to the bodice

KABA: a jacket or blouse type made of African textiles print

SLIT: a type of long skirt made by the folding and stitching methods without cutting the fabric

SASH: a wide piece of fabric joined to one end of garment and cross to other side to be fastened

or cross over one shoulder and drape.

PATTERN PAPER: Pattern paper comes in a variety of weights and colors. Each serves a

special purpose. Each paper supplier uses a code system to indicate the range of paper weights

available. The manufacturer’s preference based on personal choice and the using to which it is

put. The heavy pattern papers are commonly referred to as tag board, manila or hard paper

whereas the lighter weights are called marking paper.

PATTERN DRAFTING: Pattern drafting is a method which totally depends on measurements

taken from a form or model to make basic, foundation or design patterns.

WORKING PATTERN: Working pattern is that which is used as a base for manipulation when

generating design patterns.

FIRST PATTERNS: The original pattern developed for each design. This pattern is generally

made from marking paper and usually requires fitting and adjustments. Half a pattern is

developed unless the design is asymmetrical.

PRODUCTION PATTERN: It is one kinds of pattern set that has been perfected and corrected

and contains every pattern piece require to complete the garment. Production pattern is normally

used by the grader for grading sizes and by the marker maker for a preparing fabric layout.

PATTERN GRADER: The grader proportionately increases and decreases the size of an

original pattern with in a size range. Here, the grade is in the circumference, length and width.

PATTERN MARKER MAKER: A marker is length of paper containing a copy of all pattern

pieces to be cut at one time. All patterns are interlocked and aligned on the marker papers so that

when cut the grain lines will lie parallel to the selvage of the fabric. The completed marker is

placed on top of layers of fabric as a guide for the cutter.

PATTERN CUTTER: After the marker is made and laid on top of the layers of fabric, the

garments are cut by the cutter or by a computerized cutting machine.

HIGH PLY CUTTER: Up to three inches of compressed fabric can be consistently and

accurately cut using a high efficiency vacuum hold down system.

USING COMMERCIAL PATTERNS

Front Cover of the Pattern Envelope

There are four key bits of information on the front of the pattern envelope: the pattern number,

the pattern size, the pattern description and the design variations.

Pattern Number

The pattern number is the code that the pattern company uses to identify which pattern it is – it

is, in essence, the name of the pattern.

Pattern Size

The pattern size lets you know the range of 'ready to wear' clothing sizes that it can be made to

fit.
Pattern Description

The pattern description tells you the name of the collection that it is from, or the figure type it is

best suited to. This could be the name of the designer, the style of the pattern, its difficulty rating,

or its figure type, such as Misses' or Women's fit.

Pattern Variations

Most patterns come with multiple design variations, so on the front cover you will find images of

the different styles of the garment that you have the option to create – this could be different

hemlines or necklines, different types of sleeves, or even a different type of clothing entirely.

Back Cover of the Pattern Envelope

Wash and iron your fabric to make sure there are no wrinkles to potentially affect the size of

your finished garment. Not only do patterns offer you fabric advice, but they also list the notions

required to complete each project, such as buttons and zippers. Lists for several designs may be
included on the envelope, so ensure you're reading the list displaying the letter that corresponds

with your chosen image.

Another important thing to consider is how much fabric you will actually require for your chosen

project – the pattern helps you decipher this with size charts. Simply match up your body

measurements with a pattern size, then use that information to identify how much fabric you

should purchase.

Sometimes you will come across patterns with different measurements for fabric with nap, or

alternatively with asterisks confirming that the amount specified works for fabrics with nap.

Fabrics with nap have raised fibres (or pile) that all lie in a certain direction, such as velvet,

fleece, suede or corduroy. This fabric type generally requires more material to complete a project

as you'll need to ensure the fibres are all laying in the same direction, so it is important to take

note of that sizing information if you decide to use fabric with nap.

Inside the Pattern Envelope

You will find several items inside your pattern envelope: pattern pieces, a pattern layout and

instructions.

Pattern Pieces

Your pattern pieces display all the shapes, symbols and markings you require to complete your

project. To reuse your pattern pieces, it is suggested that you trace the pattern through onto a

large piece of tracing paper before creating the garment.

Pattern Layout

The pattern layout illustrates how you should lay out the pattern pieces onto your fabric, usually

displaying several views.

Pattern Instructions

The instruction sheet is a step-by-step walkthrough, explaining how to create your garment. This

useful reference supplies you with the important information you may need throughout the

process, such as cutting directions, marking guidance, or advice regarding seam allowances for

that specific project.

Before you choose the design of your pattern, you should fully understand what size you require

– and how to figure this out. Sewing patterns generally differ from retail sizes as they are based

on figure types, shapes and proportions, rather than standard sizing increments, ensuring there

are no creasing, wrinkling or tightness.

PATTERN AND SYMBOLS

Common symbols marked on paper pattern pieces and their meanings are

 Cutting Lines

The outer edge of the pattern is where it is supposed to be cut. It is usually marked with a solid

black line. If the pattern is multi-sized, each size will have its own type of line—usually dashes

of varying lengths. This line can differentiate depending on the pattern company, however the

two most popular forms are either a broken, dotted line or a solid line accompanied by an image
of scissors. As the name suggests, the Cutting Line marks the exact place where you should cut

the pattern piece – directly along the line.

 Stitching line / Dashed Lines

This is the line to stitch along when joining fabric together. It is rare for commercial patterns

to mark the stitching line or seam allowance, but you will sometimes find this on vintage or

independent patterns. The line will be narrow and dashed, always running parallel to the edge

of the pattern. It tells you exactly where to sew, when you are stitching two pieces together.

 Seam Allowance:

This is the width of the fabric that extends between the stitching line and edge of the fabric or

cutting line. The normal seam allowance is 1.5cm but check the pattern seam allowances
 before stitching. Marking is often represented by a squiggly bracket with a fraction – usually

5/8 inches.

 Dashed-and-Dotted Lines

To mark the center front and center back of a garment, the pattern may have a dashed-and-dotted

line. This is helpful when you are fitting a pattern, as you will know exactly where the center

front or back is meant to be. It may be labeled with “CB” for center back and “CF” for center

front.

Dashed & Dotted Lines

Double Lines /Adjustment lines /Lengthen or shorten lines

These are double lines which are normally accompanied by the words lengthen or shorten here.

These are quite common where length matters. Many patterns have a set of double lines running
across the width of the piece, usually marked, “Lengthen or Shorten Here.” If you need to

shorten the pattern (for a petite size), or lengthen it (for a taller size), these lines mark the best

place to do so. Fold along the lines to shorten the pattern, or cut between them and add extra

tissue to lengthen the pattern.

Whether shortening or lengthening, one needs to redraw the outer cutting line, just to make sure

it is straight and accurate.

 Dashed & Solid Lines

When a pattern shows a short-dashed line beside a short solid line (or two short solid lines) with

an arrow pointing from one to the other, it is indicating where to fold pleats. Pinch and fold the

fabric in the direction of the arrow, then pin or baste it in place.

Pleat Folds
  Barred Lines/ Button and Buttonholes

The sewing pattern symbols of a long bar with vertical ends and looks like extra-long capital I’s

represents the size and position of the buttonhole. Their purpose is to mark the placement of

buttonholes.

Buttonhole Lines

 X’s

A small X marks or a cross is common for the button sewing position or where to place buttons.

Button Placement

 Grain line:

This is a long straight line with double-headed arrow running down the middle of the pattern. It

is known as the grainline arrow. It shows which direction the pattern should be oriented. The
grain of the fabric should always run parallel to the grainline arrow. Measure from the top and

bottom of the arrow and ensure they are equal distances from the selvage. For example, if the top

of the arrow is 4 inches (10cm) from the selvage, the bottom of the arrow should also be 4 inches

from the selvage. Grain arrow- a straight line carrying an arrow at each end, used to position

pattern on the fabric. This line is placed parallel to the selvage or lengthwise grain.

The strong or warp threads run parallel to the selvedge. The selvedge is the woven edge of the

fabric. The weaker or weft threads run from selvedge to selvedge. The arrow at each end of the

grain line must be the same distance from the fold or selvedge. There are also lines on fold on the

bias (45) and on the weft threads.

Grainline Arrow

Tip

Make sure all the pattern pieces face the same way. This is especially vital if

your fabric has stripes, plaids, or a directional print, where it would be

obvious if one pattern piece was cut in a different direction. It is also

important if your fabric is stretchy, or if it is napped, such as satin or velvet,

where the fabric looks different depending on which way it is facing.

If you are trying to match stripes or large prints, you will need to cut each

piece as a single layer, instead of folding the fabric in half and cutting both
 layers at the same time.

 Bent Double-Headed Arrows/ Place on fold

Fold lines: this is a double-headed arrow that is bent at the ends, with the arrowheads pointing

sideways. These arrows always point toward the edge of the pattern, which means that edge goes

on the fold. Place your pattern piece on the folded edge of the fabric, making sure the selvages

are even on the other side. If you are adding seam allowances, you do not add any to fold lines.

Instead of placing the pattern piece somewhere in the middle of the fabric, place it right up

against the folded edge. When the fabric is opened up, you will have one large piece.

Cutting on the fold ensures your pieces are completely symmetrical and is often a good way to

minimize the fabric consumption.

Place on fold line: a grain line that indicates the edge of the pattern which is to be placed on

fold.

Fold line: indicates the line on which the fabric is turned for hem and lay.

Fold Arrow
  Notches /Small Triangles (or Diamonds)

Most patterns have small triangles (or diamonds) placed every so often along the outer edges.

Their appearance can vary—they might be solid or outlined, thick or thin, etc. Either way, they

are called notches, and they are meant to be matched up. In other words, when you pin two

pattern pieces together, the notches on each piece should line up with each other. If they do not,

you have a problem. There are four possible explanations:

 #1. You are trying to match up the wrong pattern pieces.

 #2. Your pattern pieces simply are not aligned properly.

 #3. Your fabric has stretched or distorted.

 #4. You did not copy the notches accurately.

Sometimes, there are clusters of two or three notches, or in very complex garments, four or more.

The number of notches usually increases as you move toward the back of the garment. If a

pattern has a triple-notch, that seam probably goes in the back, while the double-notches go on

the sides, and the single notches go in front. Knowing this can help you tell the front from the

back, which is useful if your pieces look similar and you forgot to label them.

So long as you always match corresponding notches together, it always works out.
Notches

 Darts/ Diamonds or Giant Triangles

Darts are stitched folds of fabric tapering to a point and are used to shape the garment to fit the

curves of the body. When you see a large triangle that stretches from the bust to the waist, or a

diamond that extends from the bust to the hips, it is a dart. (Usually, the lines are dashed, but

occasionally you will see one that is drawn with solid lines.) Darts are sewn to add three-

dimensionality to a garment, so it will fit the curves of your body.

Many darts are marked with dots at the tip and at the seam allowances. Some also have a thin,

solid line running down the center, which shows you where to fold the fabric prior to sewing the

dart. If there is no fold-line, fold the dart so the seam allowance dots line up, and then sewn

along the dashed lines.

Darts

Dart placement: transfers shape markings onto fabric at the dart position; make a fold in the

middle and stitch on the dart sewing line.

  Dots, Squares, Etc.

Dots, squares, and other small shapes are used as match points, much like notches, or they are

used to indicate where to start and stop sewing. They are also marks that you match with their

identical shapes, or a line of change (such as seam, sleeve cap, or beginning or ending of gathers)

in the adjoining piece. For example, a dot halfway up the center back of a skirt pattern probably

indicates where you should stop sewing to leave room for the zipper. The square on a sleeve

head is going to line up with a corresponding square on the armscye, so you can attach the sleeve

properly. Dots on the side of a pants pattern will indicate where the in-seam pockets go.

Dots & Squares

Pattern Piece Name: indicates the name of each pattern piece. Please get in the habit of having

the pattern piece name facing upwards as you pin the pattern onto the fabric.

The Number: this indicates how many pieces to cut out, e.g. Sleeve Cut 2

Gathering lines: these are usually broken lines beginning and ending with a notch. Gather

between the notches.