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A new tool to test active ingredient using acid lactic in vitro, a help to understand cellular mechanism
involved in stinging test: an example using a bacterial polysaccharide (Fucogel®).
Mehdi Sakka1, Raphael Leschiera1, Christelle Le Gall1, Olivier Gouin1, Killian L’herondelle1,
Paul Buscaglia2, Olivier Mignen2, Jean-Luc Philbé3, Thibaut Saguet3, Jean-Luc Carré1,
Abstract
The stinging test is an in vivo protocol that evaluates sensitive skin using lactic acid (LA). A
stinging score. To predict the soothing sensation of a product before in vivo testing, we
developed a model based on an LA test and substance P (SP) release using a co-culture of
polysaccharide present in Fucogel® was evaluated as the soothing molecule in the in vivo
This article has been accepted for publication and undergone full peer review but has not
been through the copyediting, typesetting, pagination and proofreading process, which may
lead to differences between this version and the Version of Record. Please cite this article as
doi: 10.1111/exd.13489
This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved.
stinging test and our in vitro model. Excluding toxic concentrations, the release of SP was
Accepted Article significant from 0.2% of lactic acid for the PC12 cells and from 0.1% of lactic acid for the
keratinocytes. When the pH was adjusted to approximately 7.4, LA did not provoke SP
in SP release from the two cellular types and in co-cultures without modifying the pH of the
medium. In vivo, a stinging test using the polysaccharide showed a 30% decrease of prickling
intensity versus the placebo in 19 women between the ages of 21 and 69. Our in vitro model
is ethically interesting and is adapted for cosmetic ingredients screening because it does not
use animal experimentation and limits human volunteers. Moreover, Fucogel® reduced
prickling sensation as revealed by the in vivo stinging test and inhibits the neurogenic
Keywords
Introduction
The stinging test is an in vivo test to determine the severity of sensitive skin. Frosh et al.
described and recommended guidelines for using the stinging test (1–4). First, lactic acid
(LA) at 10 or 5 percent is applied on the skin of the individuals, precisely on the nasolabial
receptors, which may explain the effect on the skin by an acidic effect or by the specific
action of the ligand on a receptor. If the individuals have itching or unpleasant sensations, the
test is considered positive for sensitive skin. Therefore, cosmetic substances are applied on
“stingers” for testing an inhibition of sensation. This methodology is regularly used in the
by many authors and may distinguish biophysical parameters of the skin, including the
inflammation (CNI) on the skin, as recently shown in sensitive skins (8,9). In the stinging test
as well as in sensitive skins, keratinocytes and the nerve fibres of the sensory neurons of the
epidermis are the two major cells involved (10). With regard to CNI, proteases, cytokines and
neuropeptides are implicated in the dialogue between skin cells (11). Among all these
molecules, the neuropeptide substance P (SP), which is released after a cytosolic calcium
influx, is a good marker of CNI in vitro and in vivo (8,12–17). Consequently, it is probably
strongly associated with to the unpleasant sensation present in the stinging test.
trisaccharide, fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid (18). Fucose-mannose receptors are
described in skin cells, keratinocytes and fibroblasts (19,20). Péterszegy et al. showed that in
and decreased ascorbate-induced cytotoxicity (21). Many studies in different models showed
However, there is no data on the fucose-rich anti-inflammatory effect on the skin, especially
concerning CNI. We propose that this polysaccharide, due to its composition, could be a
good candidate to have an effect act on the CNI process and a soothing activity in the
stinging test.
To mimic in vitro the in vivo stinging test and understand the effect of LA on the skin, we
developed a model that included neuronal-like cells and human keratinocytes exposed to LA
based on SP release. This model is based on previously published models studying CNI,
using primary animal sensory neurons or cell lines (13,25–30). To facilitate the study or the
screening of industrial or natural compounds the NGF-differentiated PC12 cell line, which
possess sensory-like characteristics, were used. Equally, we would like to propose a pre-
determine the effects of LA on CNI by analyzing the SP release and the cytosolic calcium
Methods
Cell culture
suspended in KSFM and were cultured at 37°C with 5% CO2. The PC12 cells (DSMZ,
ACC159 lot12) were cultured in DMEM/F12 10% FBS (Foetal Bovine Serum). The medium
Before the LA assay in monoculture, the keratinocytes were trypsinized, centrifugated and
plated at 29 000 cell/cm2 in KSFM on poly-L-Lysine. The keratinocytes were used the next
day for the assay. After EDTA (0.7mM in PBS, 5 minutes), PC12 cells were centrifugated
and plated at 23000 cells/cm2 on collagen I in a 96-well plate in their proliferation medium.
For LA and polysaccharide assay the PC12 cells were differentiated using NGF. After 24 h,
the supernatants were removed and replaced by DMEM with 50 ng/ml of NGF for 3 days.
For the co-culture, PC12 cells were prepared as previously described, and at the end of 3
For the assay, LA or Fucogel® were used. Fucogel® was supplied as a solution of purified
fermentation and is composed of repeated L-fucose, D-galactose and galacturonic acid. The
supernatants from the PC12 cells and the keratinocytes were replaced by a solution of
0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 1%, 5%, and 10%) and/or the polysaccharide at 0.01%, 0.1%
or 1%. After 15 minutes, the supernatants were kept and stocked at -80°C until use for the SP
release analysis by ELISA test (Interchim Montluçon, France). The remaining seeded cells
were assessed for viability using MTS according to the manufacture’s protocol.
The NHEK were loaded with 4 µM Fura 2-AM (Molecular Devices, Sunnyvale, CA, USA)
and 2 µM pluronic acid (Thermo Scientific, Waltham, MA, USA) in the dark for 45 min at
37°C and 5% CO2. The cells were washed to remove the excess dye, and intracellular Ca2+
measurements were done according to the protocol described in (31). For the data analysis,
the F340/F380 intensity ratio was obtained for each time point after having defined the region
of interest and subtracted the background. The amplitude of the Ca2+ responses was measured
Saint Louis, MO, USA). The RNA was reverse transcribed to cDNA with the High Capacity
cDNA Reverse Transcription Kit (Applied Biosystems, Waltham, MA, USA). The
quantitative PCR for the analysis of TRPV1, HCA1, 2 and 3, and ASIC1, 2, 3 and 4 was
performed by using specific probes for human (keratinocytes) and rattus (NGF-Differentiated
PC12 cells) and the Power SYBR® Green PCR Master Mix (Applied Biosystems, Waltham,
MA, USA) on the Step One Real-Time PCR System (Applied Biosystems, Waltham, MA,
USA). The sequences for each probe are indicated in Table S1 and were purchased from
Eurogentec (Seraing, Liège, BEL). Results were expressed in Ct (threshold cycle). A control
For the study, a group of 19 healthy volunteer women (from 18 to 70 years old) were
included after consent. All the volunteers presented with sensitive skin, including five with a
history of an atopy but no current atopic dermatitis. The stinging test was performed as
previously described (2,3), with the application of 10% LA on naso-labial folds. After the
stinging sensation appeared, the volunteers were auto-evaluated by using a scale from 0 to 9
preservatives) was applied on one of the two naso-labial folds (right or left). On the other
naso-labial fold (left or right) the other product (placebo or polysaccharide) was applied at the
same time. The determination of the sides was randomized. After five minutes, a new auto-
evaluation for each side was performed. The study was double blinded.
to the control. Graph represents the mean of “n” independent experiment +/- standard
deviation for each condition. Data were analysed using non-parametric Mann-Whitney test.
For calcium imaging analysis, the graph represents the mean of 20-40 cells +/- standard error
of the mean of a representative experiment. PCR results represent the mean of n independent
experiment +/- standard deviation for each condition. Graph of in vivo results represent the
mean of stinging test score of 19 volunteers +/- standard error of the mean. Data were
analysed using Wilcoxon two-tail test. All Results were considered as significant for a
p<0.05.
Results
The levels of SP released were significantly increased in the NGF-differentiated PC12 cells
or keratinocytes treated by LA (10%, 5%, 1%, 0.5%, 0.4%, 0.3%, 0.2%, 0.1%, 0.07%, and
0.04%) than without LA exposure (Figure 1A). The release of SP increased in a dose-
dependent manner until it levelled off as a function of the concentration of LA. The cytotoxic
effect of lactic acid was demonstrated in the NGF-differentiated PC12 cells and keratinocytes
(Figure 1B). For the keratinocytes, the results were significant for the concentrations 10%,
5%, 1%, 05%, 04% and 0.3%. A tendency for cytotoxicity was observed at 0.2% lactic acid.
For the NGF-differentiated PC12 cells, the results were significant for the concentrations
between the cytotoxicity and the intensity of the response of the cells. These concentrations
were of 0.1% lactic acid for keratinocytes, corresponding to an increased release that was 10-
fold compared to the basal level, with no toxicity and 0.2% or 0.1% for the NGF-
differentiated PC12 cells, corresponding to an increased release that was 5-fold compared to
Lactic acid induces eCa and the release of Substance P by an acidic mechanism
In DMEM (the PC12 medium), we found a pH of 6.95 (+/- 0.16, n=5), 6.22 (+/- 0.17, n=3)
and 5.63 (+/- 0.05, n=3) for 0.1%, 0.2% and 0.3% LA, respectively. In KSFM medium (the
keratinocyte medium), we found a pH of 6.66 (+/-0.17, n=3) for 0.1% lactic acid. When
polysaccharide was added at 0.1%, we did not observe a difference (a difference of 0.11 for
DMEM with 0.1% lactic acid and 0.03 for KSFM with 0.1% lactic acid, n=2). When the pH
was neutralised (approximately 7.4) before the addition of lactic acid to the cells, no SP
release was observed neither in keratinocytes nor in NGF-differentiated PC12 cells (Figure
2).
In the calcium imagery, we showed that LA at 0.1% and 0.2% induced a cytosolic calcium
entry in the keratinocytes or NGF-differentiated PC12 cells, respectively (Figure 3A). This
entry was abolished for both when the pH was 7.4 (Figure 3B).
(Ct 29.3 +/- 1.6), 2 (Ct 27.6 +/- 0.8) and 3 (Ct 27.9 +/- 0.8), ASIC1 (Ct 28.8 +/- 1.1), 2a (Ct
28.2 +/- 0.4), 3 (Ct 27.5 +/- 0.7) and 4 (Ct 33.3 +/- 2.9) were expressed (n=3). In the NGF-
differentiated PC12 cells, we showed that TRPV1 (Ct 27 +/- 0.8), HCA1 (Ct 30.8 +/-1.3), 2
(Ct 28.1 +/-1.7), ASIC1 (Ct 22 +/-2.4), 2a (Ct 30.8 +/-2.4), 3 (Ct 29.8+/-3.1) and 4 (Ct 24.3
The polysaccharide decreases the level of SP release induced by lactic acid in the PC12
cells and Keratinocytes and diminishes the prickling intensity in vivo without a pH
modification
concentration of LA on the cells. With LA, SP release was induced on the keratinocytes or
parallel, Fucogel® was used at 0.1% and 0.01% and was added into the culture medium at
the same time as LA. The results showed a significant decrease of 50% in the release of SP
when polysaccharide was applied to the keratinocytes or PC12 cells (Figure 4A).
In the co-culture model, the release of SP was significantly decreased by 25% (n=3) when
The polysaccharide was evaluated, in vivo, using classical stinging test on study of 19 women
volunteers. After the stinging appeared, the volunteers were auto-evaluated on a scale from 0
to 9 based on the intensity of the sting. Afterwards, polysaccharide or placebo was applied on
one of the two naso-labial folds in blind. After five minutes, a new auto evaluation for each
applied the score after five minutes were of 3.68 (+/- 0.64) for placebo group and of 2.42 (+/-
0.56) for polysaccharide group. The results showed a significant decrease of 50% of prickling
intensity at five minutes for polysaccharide versus T0 and 30% at five minutes for
Discussion
To understand the implication of LA used in a stinging test and to screen molecules or active
compounds before in vivo testing, we developed an in vitro model based on the monoculture
and co-culture of human primary keratinocytes and NGF-differentiated PC12 cells that were
subjected to LA. The substance P dosed in the supernatant was used as a marker of LA–
induced CNI. The polysaccharide contained in Fucogel® was used as a soothing molecule,
and it was evaluated in our cellular model and in an in vivo stinging test.
toxic concentrations of LA with the maximum release of SP, which corresponded to 0.1
at similar concentrations to our observed cytotoxic effect was previously shown (32). SP
release is correlated with CNI and is regularly used as a neuro-inflammatory marker (12,17).
results, other studies demonstrate that LA increases intra-cellular calcium and is an initiator
LA uses a variety of a potent family of receptors, which may explain its effect on the skin by
acid function or by the specific action of a ligand on a receptor. The channels activated by an
acidic effect are numerous, but the two main families include the transient receptor potential
vanilloid 1 (TRPV1) and Asic-sensing ion channels (ASIC)(35). The Asic-sensing ion
channel family is composed of 6 members (ASIC1a, ASIC1b, ASIC2a, ASIC2b, ASIC3 and
ASIC4), and they are proton receptors that are activated by LA (36). The activation of ASIC
with LA at 0.1% increases intracellular calcium in DRG neurons (33). TRPV1 is expressed
on keratinocytes and sensory neurons and is stimulated by many effectors, such as heat,
capsaicin, UV, and endovanilloids. Moreover, protons at a pH less than 5.9 activate TRPV1.
The activation of TRPV1 increases intracellular calcium and participates in SP release and
CNI (8,17). The receptors activated by the ligand lactic acid are hydroxycarboxylic acid
receptors (HCA). HCA are a family of three G protein coupled receptors, including HCA1,
HCA2 and HCA3. LA is their main agonist. Most of these receptors are expressed in skin
cells and are implicated at different levels in CNI, pain, itching or other affiliated unpleasant
sensations (8,15–17,37).
To identify the dependent or independent acidic effects of LA, we used the same conditions
of LA, but we modified the pH, which was initially between 6 and 7, to 7.4. In these
These data excluded, in our conditions, the participation of the HCA receptor in SP release
and calcium entry. Interestingly, in an in vitro model of sciatic nerve acidification, the
authors showed a release of CGRP, which is often correlated with SP release (38). Peng et al.
showed the participation of TRPV1 at a pH of 5.2 but not at 6.1. Treatment with acetic acid
using extracellular acidosis in central neurons (40). The pH determinated in our culture
conditions is compatible with the activation of the ASICs receptors (35), which were also
expressed in our cells. However, the pH was too basic for an activation of TRPV1 (pH 5.9),
performed on CNI. Interestingly, the fucose-manose receptors exist in the skin, and fucose
binds on keratinocytes and fibroblasts (Figure S1)(21). To identify the soothing effect of this
polysaccharide and its action on CNI, we evaluated a classical stinging test in vivo. Our data
showed a significant decrease in the prickling sensation by 50% when the polysaccharide was
applied versus T0, and the decreased sensation was 30% versus the placebo. Interestingly, in
our in vitro model, we demonstrated that polysaccharide significantly decreased the release of
SP by 25% in co-culture (NGF-differentiated PC12 cells with keratinocytes) and until 50% in
and PC12 in co-culture, that is absent in monoculture, probably through other inflammatory
molecules that will stimulate the cells to produce SP by another way that is not blocked by
because the polysaccharide does not provoke a significant modification of the pH of the
which we confirmed here by the decreased SP release (an inflammatory mediator) in vitro
and which was correlated by the diminution of a soothing sensation in the 19 volunteer
Because our in vivo and in vitro results went in the same direction, this in vitro model appears
as a valuable tool to predict or maybe replace the stinging test. Moreover, it is ethically
interesting and is adapted for cosmetic ingredients screening because it does not use animal
PC12 cells. Control of the pH and mechanistic evaluation are easier in this model than in
vivo, and hence, this model permits the investigation of lactic acid on skin cells in vitro.
Acknowledgements
We thank Dr Etienne Camel of the Institut d’Exprertise Clinique for providing the stinging
test expertise. We thank Dr. S. Valentin and Pr Weigo Hu for providing skin samples.
MS, RL, NL, PB, KL performed the research. NL, CLG designed the research study. OG,
KL, OM, PB, JLP, TB contributed essential reagents or tools. NL, MS, JLP, TS analysed the
data. NL, MS wrote the paper. MS, NL, LM, TS, JLC, CLG revised the paper critically and
The experiments were realized in conformity with ethical consideration, in accordance with
declaration of Helsinski, European Union rules and French law. Sample of skin and stinging
test was realized after obtain the consent of patient and volunteers.
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Substance P released (A) and cytotoxicity (B) after lactic acid treatment on NGF-
differentiated PC12 cells (left) or keratinocytes (right). The results was normalised and
expressed in fold change +/- standard deviation compared to the control without lactic acid
Substance P released by lactic acid treatment at 0.2% and at 0.1% in the NGF-differentiated
PC12 cells or keratinocytes, respectively, after 15 minutes. The pH of the lactic acid solution
was neutralized by NaOH solution (1 M) to have a pH at 7.4. The results was normalised and
expressed in fold change +/- standard deviation compared to the control without lactic acid
Calcium entry was analysed using calcium imaging. After record for 50ms of control signal,
the NGF-differentiated PC12 cells or keratinocytes were treated with lactic acid at 0.2%
(n=3) and at 0.1% (n=3), respectively or with neutralized lactic acid (ph7.4) at 0.2% (n=2)
and at 0.1% (n=3), for 200ms. The graphics represent the mean of 20-40 cells in the
representative experiment.
PC12 cells (left) or keratinocytes (right), respectively, after 15 minutes, with or without
B Substance P released by lactic acid treatment at 0.1% after 15 minutes in the co-cultured
model (left) containing together the NGF-differentiated PC12 cells and keratinocytes, with or
without Fucogel® at 0.1%. The results are normalised and expressed in fold change +/-
standard deviation compared to the control with lactic acid (*, Mann-Whitney, p< 0.05, n=3).
In in vivo conditions (right), a stinging test (with 10% lactic acid) was performed on 19
volunteer women with hypersensitivity of the skin. A solution, using 2 mg/cm² on 15 cm² of
Fucogel® 3% or placebo (water and preservatives), was applied after the lactic acid
beginning (0 minutes) and at 5 minutes (*, Wilcoxon test, p< 0.05, n=19).
Figure S1: Fucosyl-BSA fluoresceine binding assay (green) on a slice of human skin
explants. The cell nuclei are labelled by a Hoechst solution. Scale bar: 50 µm.