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pH in Skin Pathophysiology

Surber C, Abels C, Maibach H (eds): pH of the Skin: Issues and Challenges.


Curr Probl Dermatol. Basel, Karger, 2018, vol 54, pp 115–122 (DOI: 10.1159/000489525)

pH and Acne
Nanna Schürer
Department of Dermatology, Environmental Medicine and Health Theory, University of Osnabrück, Osnabrück, Germany

What Is Already Known? Abstract


■ Acne vulgaris seems to correlate with impaired epi- Acne is based on a complex, multifactorial pathophysiol-
dermal barrier function within the follicular epithe- ogy beginning with a microcomedo. Comedogenesis in-
lium. volves follicular hyperproliferation and disturbed kerati-
■ Epidermal barrier function improves through skin nization, hyperseborrhea and hyperplasia of sebaceous
surface acidification. Superficial acidic peels accom- glands as well as disturbances in skin microbiome. Acne
panied by an acidic (pH <5.0) homecare are thera- is treated with antibiotics, retinoids, keratolytics, hor-
peutic strategies of treating papulo-pustular and monal and anti-inflammatory agents. Efficacy and side
comedonal acne. effects of given medications are well known. The upper-
most layer of the stratum corneum is acidic. The low pH
What Does This Text Add? provides protection by slowing down the growth of some
bacteria. Increase of skin surface pH leads to impaired
■ While the link “skin surface acidification and epi-
barrier function, disturbances in skin microbiome and in-
dermal barrier function” is well documented, there
flammation. Acne-predisposed skin is in a constant state
seems to be a lack of studies on skin surface pH and
of subclinical inflammation. Subclinical inflammation
barrier function in acne. This text offers an intersec-
may be linked to changes in skin surface pH and distur-
tion of the following research subjects: (I) barrier
bances of the stratum corneum, allowing microorgan-
function, (II) skin surface pH, (III) superficial chemi-
isms to stimulate the production of pro-inflammatory cy-
cal peels and (IV) acne vulgaris. Controlled clinical
tokines. Here, based on the current literature, the possible
and functional studies are required to support a
link between the skin surface pH, epidermal barrier func-
possible context.
tion and acne is reviewed.
© 2018 S. Karger AG, Basel
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Skin Surface pH Acne with and without Propionibacterium
acnes
The acidic skin surface pH is the end product of
the pH gradient located within the stratum cor- An acidic pH allows the resident flora to grow. As
neum [1, 2]. Integrity and cohesion of the stratum the pH increases, the resident flora changes [13].
corneum [3, 4] as well as the balance of the micro- In particular, Propionibacterium acnes grows well
bial flora [5] depend on the acidic skin surface in an environment with a pH range of 6.0–6.5;
pH. however, when pH drops to 5.5, its growth notice-
Numerous endogenous pathways contribute ably decreases [14]. P. acnes stimulate keratino-
to the acidic skin surface pH: cytes to express and secrete IGF-1 and IGF-1R,
(I) Proton-donating free fatty acids (FFA) gen- inducing proliferation and differentiation in ke-
erated from the hydrolysis of epidermal phospho- ratinocytes and sebocytes. P. acnes play a signifi-
lipids and other complex lipids in the late stages cant role in the formation of comedones [15]. P.
of differentiation play an important role in acidi- acnes, secreting lipases, proteases, hyaluronidases
fication [6]. and chemotactic factors induce monocytes, sebo-
(II) Lipase activities of resident bacterial flora cytes and keratinocytes to produce pro-inflam-
and sebaceous glands produce FFA accumulating matory cytokines, such as interleukin (IL)-1α [16,
on the skin surface [7]. 17]. Further studies reveal no clear evidence of P.
(III) Energy-requiring pathways like the Na+/ acnes involvement in comedones and inflamed
+-antiporter system influence the skin pH by
H lesions [18]: Even though 97% of comedones con-
regulating the H+-concentration [8] . tain microorganisms, there is no significant cor-
(IV) Urocanic acid generated from the histi- relation between levels of IL-1α and the numbers
dine metabolism might also add to the acidic pool of microorganisms. Shaheen and Gonzalez [18]
[9]. suggest an imbalance between the pro- and anti-
inflammatory pathways for the initiation of in-
flamed acne lesions. Hypercornification of the in-
Barrier Function fundibulum has been initiated by IL-1α in vitro
[19]. An increase in epidermal IL-1α was ob-
Formation and processing of lamellar structures served in mice after experimental barrier distur-
within the intercellular space of the stratum bances via tape stripping [20]. IL-1α produced af-
corneum occur in an acidic environment [10]. ter barrier disruption may initiate a cytokine cas-
Acidification improves stratum corneum struc- cade, which could regulate cytokines and cytokine
ture and function. Therefore, skin surface acid- receptor production and/or inflammatory re-
ification has been hypothesized as a therapeutic sponses. Thus, IL-1α seems to initiate inflamma-
strategy for inflammatory dermatoses [10]. In tion in acne independent of the presence of P.
contrast, an increased skin surface pH activates acnes.
serine proteases, involved in the degradation of P. acnes possess lipolytic activities, liberating
corneodesmosomes [3, 11]. Disturbances of the FFA from sebaceous lipids, although genuine
epidermal barrier in acne vulgaris is accompa- FFA production by human sebocytes is also pos-
nied by hyperkeratosis of the follicular epithe- sible [21, 22]. Some middle- to long-chain FFAs
lium [12]. Compared to normal controls, pa- (C8–C18) reveal antibacterial activity against
tients with acne vulgaris reveal not only an im- gram-positive bacteria. These FFAs may direct
paired skin barrier function but also a reduction antimicrobial activity against pathogen coloniza-
of ceramides. tion and infection and stimulate the expression of
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Surber C, Abels C, Maibach H (eds): pH of the Skin: Issues and Challenges.


Curr Probl Dermatol. Basel, Karger, 2018, vol 54, pp 115–122 (DOI: 10.1159/000489525)
the antimicrobial peptide (AMP) hBD-2 in sebo- accordance to these studies, an average pH >5 is
cytes [7]. AMPs in turn have pH-dependent anti- not within the normal range. To answer the ques-
microbial characteristics. Some of these mole- tion about a possible correlation between the stra-
cules exhibit high pH optima for their antimicro- tum corneum (follicular) pH and acne, a consen-
bial activity, but most AMPs show activity against sus on the applied methodology is as necessary as
microbes in acidic environment, which reflects a clear definition of the normal skin surface pH.
the importance of an acidic pH [23]. P. acnes met-
abolic activity linked to follicular stratum corne-
um pH may provide the reason why one follicle Acne and Skin Surface pH Influences
may develop into an acne lesion, while adjacent
follicles do not. Influences on the skin surface pH may take an en-
dogenous and/or exogenous pathway. Further,
the skin surface pH may be altered depending
Skin Surface pH and Acne upon the disease status of the skin.
Endogenous influences include
It is still unclear if the incidence of acne is higher 1. Age
in patients revealing an increased skin surface 2. Gender
pH. There is only one study showing a positive 3. Fitzpatrick skin type
correlation: Prakash et al. [24] measured facial 4. Sebum activity
skin pH in 200 patients with acne and in 200 age- 5. Anatomical site
and sex-matched healthy controls: the mean pH 6. Skin moisture and sweat gland activity
value in the healthy control group was within the (1) Under physiological conditions, skin
normal range. Compared to the control group, surface pH is maintained in the acidic range
the skin surface pH was significantly increased in throughout adult life, until old age when it rises
patients with acne. again [28–31]. Acne occurs during adolescence
Other studies did not reveal such clear correla- (about 4/5) and in adult life (about 1/5) [32], that
tion between acne and the skin surface pH. Hol- is, during a life time when the skin surface pH is
land and Cunliffe [25] suggested that the pH of constantly low.
comedones and normal skin surface is similar. (2) The majority of studies reveal a higher
Youn et al. [26] measured the skin surface pH of facial skin surface pH in women compared to
the face in 540 patients with facial acne. In most men [26, 27, 33, 34]. Moreover, adult acne is more
facial areas, the skin surface pH did not correlate common in women than in men [32]. Contrary to
with the number of acne lesions in both genders. the above-mentioned studies, a lower skin surface
A similar study had been performed by Kim et al. pH has been found in females compared to males
[27] measuring the facial skin surface pH of 37 in a study on 11 subjects [35]. Exogenous factors
acne patients compared to 47 healthy individuals. influencing the skin surface pH as well as meth-
No difference  in skin surface pH could be re- odological differences must be taken into account
trieved in both groups. when studies are compared.
However, the authors state that the pH level (3) Humans with darkly pigmented skin dis-
was within normal range on the face from 5.4 to play superior permeability barrier function com-
5.9 [26]. According to a multicenter study, the pared to humans with lightly pigmented skin [36,
natural skin surface pH on the volar forearm is on 37]. Superior permeability barrier function is
average below 5 [5] and the pH range on the fore- linked to the acidity of skin pH. Regardless of the
head is comparable to that of the forearm [28]. In degree of pigmentation, acne vulgaris is one of the
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pH and Acne 117


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Surber C, Abels C, Maibach H (eds): pH of the Skin: Issues and Challenges.


Curr Probl Dermatol. Basel, Karger, 2018, vol 54, pp 115–122 (DOI: 10.1159/000489525)
most common cutaneous diseases, affecting up to lead to an increase in skin surface pH and even-
85% of adolescents. Prevalence data are available tually to barrier disturbances. Therefore, alka-
from Australia, Brazil, China, Europe, India, USA line soaps are not the recommended cleansers
and Nigeria. All reveal comparable data with high in acne.
prevalence of acne in adolescents independent of (2) Although evidence is mounting for the
pigmentation skin type [38–43]. benefits of acidic emollients in maintaining bar-
(4) Sebum secretion affects the skins surface rier homeostasis [10, 53], very little is known
acidity. Facial sebum secretion and the skin sur- about the pH of most available OTC leave-on
face pH correlate [27]. This correlation however products. In a murine model, Hachem et al. [10]
does not apply to the back, most likely due to low- showed positive influences of polyhydroxyl acids
er sebum secretion at this body site. Sebum pro- on skin barrier function. The results are in accor-
duction is higher in men than that in women [44]. dance with human studies [37, 54]. Furthermore,
(5) The skin surface pH was measured on repeated superficial chemical peels aligned with
the forehead, temple and forearm of female sub- home care products low in pH ≈3.8 have been
jects [28]: no difference in skin surface pH was shown to be effective in reducing inflammatory
retrieved. In the intertriginous areas and regions lesions of acne [55].
supplied by apocrine glands in the normal adult (3) It has been shown that exposure to solar
skin, the pH is found to be less acidic or even neu- UV light compromises the skin’s barrier function
tral [45]. The question arises whether there exists [56]. UV exposure has an additive effect to air-
a correlation between the “physiologic holes of borne pollutants and ozone. Exposure to some air
the acid mantle” in this region and the incidence pollutants may also aggravate acne vulgaris [57].
of hidradenitis suppurativa. (4) Nutritional optimization may not only
(6) The hydration values of the epidermis prevent skin disorders but may also improve skin
depend on the anatomical area [46, 47]. Excessive condition. The relationship between nutrition
perspiration influences skin surface pH [48]. and acne via high glycemic load diets has gained
Sportive activity has been shown to increase the interest [58]. Boelsma et al. [59] have shown in
skin surface pH with highest pH values measured 302 subjects that an increase in serum vitamin A
in armpits (pH 5.64–5.98) [49]. The effect of ex- is associated with a decrease in sebum content and
ercise-induced sweat on truncal acne was assessed a decrease in surface pH. Melnik [60] correlates
in a rather small, single-blinded, controlled, clin- the prevalence of adolescent acne with milk con-
ical trial with 7, respectively 8 males per group sumption. The consumption of milk raises IGF-1
[50]. No significant differences in truncal acne serum levels. IGF-1 is a potent mitogen, inducing
were noted in the exercising compared to the cell proliferation. The prevalence of acne in milk-
non-exercising group. consuming societies can be explained by the IGF-
Exogenous influences include 1-stimulation of sebaceous glands. Nutrition may
1. Rinse of products influence skin surface pH and/or acne.
2. Leave-on products
3. Environmental conditions
4. Nutritional factors. Acne Treatment with Respect to Skin Surface
(1) Rinse of products is classified according pH
to the type of surfactant used. The change in
skin pH is directly proportional to the pH of the Topical acne therapies can have a negative im-
cleanser, and the effect is reversible [51, 52]. Re- pact on the epidermal barrier [61, 62]. These
peated washes of acne using alkaline soaps will studies as well as appropriate humectants and
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Surber C, Abels C, Maibach H (eds): pH of the Skin: Issues and Challenges.


Curr Probl Dermatol. Basel, Karger, 2018, vol 54, pp 115–122 (DOI: 10.1159/000489525)
emollients to mitigate this problem have been re- A review on the efficacy of glycolic acid (30–
viewed in [63]. Epidermal barrier repair is sup- 70%) compared to salicylic acid (30%) peels on
ported in an acid environment; therefore, it is not inflammatory acne lesions has been recently pub-
surprising that the extent of acne lesions can be lished [55]. Superficial chemical peels employing
improved by acidification of the skin  surface. glycolic acid (30–70%) and salicylic acid (30%)
Schurer and Bock [64] reported on a skin surface are effective in reducing inflammatory lesions of
pH-lowering devise: decreasing the pH of inflam- acne.
matory acne lesions  correlated  with the clinical The use of a series of superficial chemical peels
extent of acne. along with homecare products adjusted to an
A series of superficial chemical peels can im- acidic pH seems to be a convenient, affordable
prove acne over a short period of time, leading to treatment for acne. However, most published
patient satisfaction and maintenance of clinical clinical trials (1) include only small numbers of
results. The most commonly used chemical peels volunteers and (2) are open label and uncon-
in treating acne include salicylic acid and trolled studies [69].
α-hydroxy acids.
Glycolic acid is an α-hydroxy acid widely
used as a superficial peeling agent [55]. Expo- Conclusion
sure of skin to glycolic acid leads to reduced cor-
neocyte adhesion, correction of abnormal infun- The literature reveals many studies on skin sur-
dibular keratinization, decreased keratinocyte face acidification and epidermal barrier function.
plugging and ultimately decreased follicular oc- Results are uniform: an acidic pH improves epi-
clusion [65]. Chemical peels with 35% glycolic dermal barrier structure and function.
acid (pH 1.2) decreased the number of propioni- Acne is an inflammatory disease. Inflamma-
bacteria on the cheeks of patients significantly tion is initiated by IL-1α, perhaps due to the pres-
[65]. ence of P. acnes. There are few studies on the epi-
The mode of action of a 4% glycolic acid for- dermal barrier function in acne patients. Howev-
mulation (pH 3.8) on the stratum corneum was er, based on the current literature, acne vulgaris
investigated by electron microscopy [66]. Com- may be associated with impaired water barrier
pared to normal human stratum corneum, en- function, contributing to comedogenesis and in-
hanced desmosomal breakdown was restricted to flammation. More controlled clinical and func-
the stratum disjunctum in the treated skin sites. A tional studies are required.
more compact stratum corneum correlated with Skin surface acidification may be a therapeu-
unchanged TEWL in glycolic acid- versus vehi- tic strategy for the treatment of acne. Skin care
cle-treated skin [66]. However, glycolic acid peels with glycolic acid formulation (pH 3.8) does not
(30, 50, and 70%) on the volar forearm revealed disrupt barrier structures. In contrast to acidic
disturbances in barrier function, which recovered skin care formulations, glycolic acid peels lead
within 24 h after the peel [67]. temporarily to disturbances in barrier function,
Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid. Due to its recovering within 24 h after the peel. Even
lipophilicity, it penetrates well into the piloseba- though all clinical studies underline the efficacy
ceous unit. This property of salicylic acid ac- of superficial peels in mild-moderate acne, con-
counts for its comedolytic effect and its utility in trolled and larger studies are required. Is there a
the treatment of acne. The safety and efficacy of correlation between the stratum corneum pH
30% salicylic acid for the treatment of acne has and acne? This question remains unanswered as
been demonstrated [68]. yet. Published data are contradictory, possibly
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pH and Acne 119


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Surber C, Abels C, Maibach H (eds): pH of the Skin: Issues and Challenges.


Curr Probl Dermatol. Basel, Karger, 2018, vol 54, pp 115–122 (DOI: 10.1159/000489525)
because the following influences on acne and Last but not least, an acne patient should be
skin surface pH need more attention: gender, able to access not only the INCI (Internation-
pigmentation, sebum gland activity, hydration, al  Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients)
anatomical region, nutrition, UV light and/or of  a  given leave-on product but also its pH
airborne pollutants. range.

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Prof. Dr. Nanna Schürer


Department of Dermatology, Environmental Medicine and Health Theory
Faculty of Human Sciences, University of Osnabrück
Am Finkenhügel 7a
DE–49076 Osnabrück (Germany)
E-Mail nschuere@uos.de
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Univ.-Bibliothek der TU München

122 Schürer
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Surber C, Abels C, Maibach H (eds): pH of the Skin: Issues and Challenges.


Curr Probl Dermatol. Basel, Karger, 2018, vol 54, pp 115–122 (DOI: 10.1159/000489525)

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