eS Foot? Steps EDUCATIONAL SERVICE VOL. 1, NO. 3 JANUARY, 1988 REEHAND EMBROIDERY FOOT Clip on the Freehand Embroidery Foot and turn out creatively embellished accents on wearing apparel. Typical applications of foot #24 include cutwork, monograms, quilting, smocking, trapunto and corded scallop edges. Filled cutwork and hot filigree are decorative techniques made possible with this uniquely (C designed presser foot ‘A 3/8-inch metal circle with the front 1/3 cut away for clear vision describes presser foot #24. In combination with Bernina sewing machines’ unique hopper mechanism, this spring loaded foot makes it easy to glide work smoothly and freely. As the needle pierces the fabric, the frechand embroidery foot, gently touches the work. This simultaneous action prevents “flagging”. Flagging is caused when the fabric moves up as the needle is raised resulting in a flapping or flagging motion. With the feed dogs lowered, this complete freedom of movement allows you to literally paint with your Bernina Filled or Renaissance cutwork combines two techniques into one new fashionable design. Open areas created by cutwork methods are filled in with satin stitch bars. Bars hold the cutwork designs together and add beauty to the embroidery making it possible to embellish collars, cuffs, pockets, bodices and scarves. Hot filigree is a new method of melting away the synthetic fibers within an enclosed design to create a look similar to cutwork. The Freehand Embroidery Foot surrounds the needle providing safety for the sewer while guiding around the design initially and at the final finishing with a satin stitch edge. A preheated electric stencil cutter is carefully drawn alongside the row of stitching to melt away the synthetic fibers and create open spaces. Presser Foot #24 is just the key to adding designer touches to simply constructed wearing apparel. Test the techniques on sample fabrics first and then plan the applications to future wardrobe additions. And, don’t forget to sign your work by writing your name on ribbon under the Freehand Embroidery Foot and. then sewing the signed ribbon label into a seam! 1130, 1030, and 930 Freehand Embroidery Foot #24ILLED CUTWORK Cutwork is an embroidery technique in which part of the fabric is cut away. The raw edges of cut away designs are finished with the satin stitch. Firmly woven natural fibers are the traditional choice for cutwork. The following technique can also be applied to synthetic fabrics for a softer look. Cutwork is often used for table linens because the open designs dramatically highlight the wood beneath. Cutwork also adds a distinctive touch to blouses, collars, cuffs and scarves. Fill the cut away areas with Bars t0 soften the contrast of open areas with the fabric. These Bars also add strength and help hold the spaces together. There are numerous combinations of Bars and Bars ‘may be formed in many ways—straight, y’s or even combined with eyelets. For the more advanced sewer, simple picots add beauty t0 basic cutwork. A single layer collar and cuffs combined with filled cutwork creates exciting design accents to simply designed rnecklines and sleeves. SUPPLIES NEEDED _ Freehand embroidery foot #24 Water soluble stabilizer Tightly woven fabric that doesn’t fray Tear away stabilizer Machine embroidery thread in needle; fine machine embroidery thread in bobbin Embroidery hoop Water soluble marking pen MACHINE SETTING Cutwork first run: stitch: Zig zag Stitch width: 1 Needle position: Center Feed Dogs: Down Bobbin case threaded DIRECTIONS STEP Trace desired pattern on water soluble stabilizer with marking pen. Layer water soluble stabilizer, fabric and tear away stabilizer in hoop. Zig zag edges of entire design with narrow stitch width. Trim away the desired inside areas of fabric and tear away stabilizer being careful not to remove water soluble stabilizer. MACHINE SETTINGS Bars first run: Stitch: Straight Down Bobbin case threaded Bars second run: Stitch: Zig Zag Stiteh width: 1-1/2 Feed dogs: Down Bobbin case threaded DIRECTIONS ——__ STEP 2: Straight stitch across cut away area 3 or 4 times being careful to anchor threads at each side into the finished cut edge. Set machine for second run and loosely oversew the straight stitches with the zig zag.c MACHINE SETTIN DIRECTIONS Cutwork second run: Stiteh: Zig zag Stitch width: 1-1/2 to 2 Needle position: Center Feed dogs: Down Bobbin case threaded DIRECTIONS STEP 3: Tie on and begin to free motion satin stitch the edge of the cut away design, being careful to oversew all raw edges. Go over cutwork twice if needed. Remove water soluble stabilizer with water. Press between two. layers of paper towel to remove remaining film [Picors Small loops of fine perle cotton stitched into the Bars ‘add beautiful design variations for the advanced sewer, SUPPLIES NEEDED ‘Same as above plus perle cotton #8 or #10 MACHINE SETTING ‘Same as Bars first and second run above Prepare bars as directed above in step 2 first run, Cut lengths of perle cotton twice the length of bars. Secure perle cotton in place on the edge with sewn out zig zag stitch and dropped feed dogs. Satin stitch over, the cord and thread bar to the center point of where picot is to be placed. Make a small loop with perle cotton and lay the loop along the bar. Take 2 to 3 stitches to secure the loop. Being careful not to stitch into the loop continue sewing to end of bar. Secure perle cotton into the edge as at opposite end. Continue with Directions Step 3 TIPS Spacing between Bars for smaller designs is best at 1/4 to 1/2 inch intervals. Use the throat plate markings as a guide for straight rows. Always bring up the bobbin thread and tie on before beginning filled cutwork directions Keep threads clipped to prevent tangles. Cut all loose threads before washing away soluble stabilizer, ‘Cut away larger areas of water soluble stabilizer leaving only the smaller areas to dissolve and rinse Use fine needles #60 or #70 for best stitch appearance. Running machine at an even speed and an even ‘movement of work is very important,(APs FILIGREE An open lacelike design achieved by combining basic ‘cutwork techniques with an electric stencil cutter adds instant embroidery beauty to collars, cuffs, bodices| ‘and scarves. Synthetic fabrics only are permitted for this technique because the fibers must be melted and not burned to form straight, smooth edges. The ‘melted synthetic fibers form a firm and slightly brittle ridge along the line of stitching. For this reason, apply this technique to areas not directly touching the skin for best wearing comfort. SUPPLIES NEEDED Freehand embroidery foot #24 Synthetic Fabric Alll purpose polyester thread Water soluble marking pen Electrie stencil cutter MACHINE SETTI First run: Stitch: Zig zag Stitch width: 1 Needle position: Center Feed dogs: Down Bobbin case threaded DIRECTIONS STEP 1: Trace desired pattern on fabric with marking pen; insert fabric into hoop. Zig zag entire design with narrow stitch width. Melt away inside of stitched areas by carefully drawing tip of preheated stencil cutter alongside the inside line of stitching. EFS288 MACHINE SETTING Second run: Stitch: Zig zag Stitch width: 1-1/2 to 2 Needle position: Center Feed dogs: Down Bobbin case threaded DIRECTIONS STEP 2: Tie on and begin to free motion satin stitch the edge of the melted away design areas, being careful to oversew all raw or beaded edges. \ BERNINA Ei @ Bernina of America, Inc. 594 W. Chestnut Hinsdale, linois 60521 312/654-4136