let's make Explore Publish Login | Sign Up

share what you make Featured: Intel IoT Life Hacks Beauty Woodworking

Super Silent Compressor Built Out Of An Old Fridge/Water Cooler by

antagonizer

Download 6 Steps Collection I Made it! Favorite Share

Web page converted to PDF with the PDFmyURL PDF creation API!
 About This Instructable

28,116 views License:

242 favorites

antagonizer
Tom

Follow 1018

When you're working indoors, an ordinary compressor can be pretty loud and Bio: I'm the kind of person who's mind
distracting. The only other option is to invest in a silent compressor which can, doesn't stop. Literally, I take medication to
easily, cost 3-4 times as much. More than that, unless you're ready to spend an fix that just so I can sleep at night. I have
an unhealthy obsession with making
obscene amount, they are rarely able to put out the same psi as a standard things and believe, firmly, in sharing
compressor. ...read more »

To the do-it-yourself type, this isn't a problem. Using a standard fridge/water More by antagonizer
cooler compressor, an old pancake air compressor, and a bit of soldering skill, you
can build your own SUPER silent compressor that is barely audible when running,
and is capable of putting out, up to 120 psi safely. It operates a bit more slowly
Web page converted to PDF with the PDFmyURL PDF creation API!
 than it's mechanical counterpart, but not by much. This model can pressure up in
under 4 minutes.
Tags: air compressor hack fridge
This project should take you, no more, than an hour to build in it's simplest form, silent quiet
however there's plenty of room to improve the design. Simple upgrades such as a
custom mount for the fridge comp, a wire box to clean up the harness, etc. will go
a long way to making your build prettier, but aren't necessary to it's function.
There is almost zero vibration and as much noise as your refrigerator has when Related
it's running.
How to modify a fridge
compressor into a silent
air compressor
by kerimil

Reanimating Grandpas old

Step 1: Tools and Equipment DIY WWII Compressor
by uncle_molotov
Equipment:
How to make the simplest
pancake compressor with separate pressure switch compression fitting for a
fridge or water cooler compressor, (either will work fine. The one in this silent air compressor /
instructable is from a water cooler) vacuum pump
1/4" copper line by kerimil
Hacking your air
compression fittings compressor for fast fill up
various wire connectors/marettes by bensmith8302
tie wraps
Home Made Freezer Box
Important note: When locating your fridge/cooler compressor, it's a good idea to Fridge/Air con .
have it drained by a professional. Simply cutting the tubes and letting the gasses by Redstormx1
out is just plain bad for the environment, and a hazard to you if inhaled directly. If
having it drained isn't an option, locate a unit that has been sent for recycling.
More often than not they end up there simply because they've leaked all of their See More
coolant and no longer provide refridgeration, however the compressor itself should
still be operational. Nevertheless, you should still take precautions, when cutting
the lines, by using a ventilator.
Web page converted to PDF with the PDFmyURL PDF creation API!
 the lines, by using a ventilator.

Tools:

Soldering torch w/ solder and flux paste

teflon tape
monkey wrenchs
drivers
wire stripper/cutter

Step 2: Identifying The Tubes/electrical On The Fridge

Compressor

Web page converted to PDF with the PDFmyURL PDF creation API!
 Electrical:

On the side of the unit, you'll find the thermal overload/power connection. In the
second picture you can see the connections. You should make note of how it's
connected when you remove it from the fridge/cooler and wire using the same
colors, with the ground wire connected to the body of the unit itself. There is a
thermal overload built into every unit that protects it. One flaw with a fridge
compressor is that if you shut it off, then turn it on right away, the thermal
overload will kick in. Don't worry if this happens. Just wait a few seconds and try
Web page converted to PDF with the PDFmyURL PDF creation API!
 again. The thermal overload should reset itself. It'll also protect the unit from
power spikes, in case you fudge the wiring like I did on the first unit I built.

Identifying The Tubes:

More often than not you'll find three 1/4" tubes exiting the unit with one by itself on
one side and the other two side by side on the other. An easy way to figure out
what is what is to connect the comp to power then feel the end of each line for
suction or discharge. On 'most' models, the suction tube is the one that's by itself,
and the discharge tube is the lower of the two on the opposite side. The third tube
is unused. It's called the process tube, and is generally only used at the factory for
testing. This tube should be crimped and/or soldered closed.

Step 3: Important Choices On What Type Of Air Compressor

To Canibalize

Web page converted to PDF with the PDFmyURL PDF creation API!
 The choice of air compressor you plan to use for this project is extremely
important. I've built a few of these, for other people, and have found that the
pancake models with the separate pressure switch tend to work the best. The
larger models that incorporate the pressure switch into the power have a unique
issue. There is usually a bleed valve, incorporated into these, that release the
pressure going from the compressor to the tank. Unfortunately, this switch needs
a strong pulse of air to activate, that the fridge compressor just can't provide, so it
will leak incessantly, causing your tank to fill more slowly. You can disable the
switch, however it's part of the pressure regulator in the unit, so you will also be
disabling your compressor's ability to shut off when it's full, making it unsafe, or in
Web page converted to PDF with the PDFmyURL PDF creation API!
 the very least, annoying since you'll end up having to keep a constant eye on it.

Suffice it to say, having an air compressor with a separate pressure switch will
make the job a whole lot easier.

Step 4: Installing The Fridge/cooler Compressor

Web page converted to PDF with the PDFmyURL PDF creation API!
 Attaching the Fridge Comp. to the Tank:

For the sake of cost and simplicity, I simply zip tied the unit onto the tank. There
is virtually no vibration and no worry about it working itself loose over time. You
can choose to create a mounting bracket, for cosmetic reasons, however, if you're
like me, it doesn't have to be pretty. It just has to work.

Soldering and shaping the Line:

You may need to solder new line and add fittings to make your connection,
however more often than not, you can just recycle what came with the air comp,
and the fridge. The line you see in the pic was existing from the air comp and was
1/4" I.D. (internal diameter). The line exiting the comp was 1/4" O.D. (outer
diameter, so it was simply a matter of a bit of sanding to make the connection.
The rest is simply soldering pipe together much as you would if you were working
with plumbing. Just lay some flux paste in the joint, apply heat from the torch then
let the solder fill the gap, and presto...you have a connection. You may need to
make some dramatic curves in your line in order to get it to line up with the intake
on the tank. I like to keep a piece of flexi-shaft from an old weed trimmer on hand
for just such issues. You can feed it through the pipe, bend to the desired shape
and then draw it out again. It's a great way to prevent kinks in the line that could
otherwise interrupt the air flow.

Fixing Leaks:

I can't express, enough, how important it is to make sure you don't have any
leaks. This is where the teflon tape comes in. Fridge comps. don't put out a lot of
volume, so any leak, no matter how small can seriously impede it's fill time.
Simply put, check every connection, and tape everything.

Web page converted to PDF with the PDFmyURL PDF creation API!
 Step 5: Wiring The Power And Pressure Switch

This is just a simple diagram I made up for a friend that wanted to build his own
unit. Should make the set up easier.

Step 6: Finished
You're done. Everything else on the unit should stay the same and you can
connect up to it as you normally would if it had a conventional compressor
attached.

Web page converted to PDF with the PDFmyURL PDF creation API!
 Hope you enjoyed the instructable.

Web page converted to PDF with the PDFmyURL PDF creation API!
 We have a be nice comment policy.
Please be positive and constructive.

I Made it! Add Images Make Comment

jonestation 2 months ago Reply

hi, may i know if it is possible for a 1/5 hp fridge compressor to fill up 30

Liter tank, or 50 Liter tank up to 115psi ? Will the compressor burn out
for running too long?

Web page converted to PDF with the PDFmyURL PDF creation API! 2 months ago
 antagonizer (author) jonestation 2 months ago Reply

A fridge compressor will work with a 50L tank but the fill is pretty
slow. Fridge compressors are designed to work for long periods
and can attain pressures as high as 250psi.
You should beware of some large tanks as their pressure switch
is part of the on/off assembly which won't work for you. It should
be mounted directly to the tank as you see in the pic "Installing
the fridge/cooler compressor", otherwise you'll be manually
shutting it off when it reaches pressure which can be
dangerous.

jonestation antagonizer 2 months ago Reply

Thanks for reminding. Is there a specific name for that type of

pressure switch? Most of the compressor tank i saw here are
using typical black box with either a red button on top or a pin
on the right of the pressure switch box. Can i change the
pressure switch to the type you recommend?

antagonizer (author) jonestation 2 months ago Reply

You would have to find one that fits inline with the tanks air inlet.
I haven't seen one in stores anywhere but it doesn't mean they
exist. It's basically a switch that's wired inline with the input
voltage. When the tank reaches a designated pressure, it cuts
off power to the pump.

vectorization 2 months ago Reply

I'm using a NLY7F compressor. Though I'm having trouble figuring out
which wire should I connect to a switch. Could you help me out?
Web page converted to PDF with the PDFmyURL PDF creation API!
 Thanks :)

antagonizer (author) vectorization 2 months ago Reply

I'm not familiar with your model of compressor, but your

switches should be on the hot (black) side and the neutral
(white) should be wired directly. Looks like that's position 'e' on
your diagram. Everything else is redundant and are just line out
for things like the fan and light. You can terminate those and
marette them. The green wire should be grounded directly to the
chassis or tank. Sometimes a compressor will use another color
for neutral, like red, but black generally is always black.

Msinks 5 months ago Reply

Am planning on using this compressor on a small packaging machine

as a school project to extend and retract about four cylinders in a
certain sequence...
What effect on the compressor will this have over time, since its been
modified to work has an air compressor? Will it shorten its life span?

mark.andersen.1293 10 months ago Reply

I repurposed the compressor from a badly damaged fridge many years

Web page converted to PDF with the PDFmyURL PDF creation API!
 ago to run my air brushes I used to paint my models, but I never thought
about hooking it up to a tank. Great Idea. :-)

lov2teach 11 months ago Reply

I'm passing this instructable to my husband. It's a bit beyond my skill

but am sure he can make this.
Thank you so much for giving of your time to make this instructable as
well as the video!

geoalcai17 1 year ago Reply

using water tanks instead of pancake comp. is it possible?

antagonizer (author) geoalcai17 1 year ago Reply

Depends on their working pressure. It should exceed what you

expect to pump your tanks to by at least +50% If you're not
installing a pressure cut off switch, I wouldn't recommend it tho.

FN64 1 year ago Reply

Now that's pretty innovative! Could one of these fill a larger tank?? I
realize it would take more time to fill but would it run for the required
time without over heating?
I have a 10 gallon compressor that's noisy as heck for running an air
nailer (brads) This mod would be most welcomed if it's do-able.
Great 'ible..clear & easy to understand
Thanks..FN

Web page converted to PDF with the PDFmyURL PDF creation API!
 antagonizer (author) FN64 1 year ago Reply

I've build one using a 10 gallon tank, and wasn't impressed at

the fill time. Takes about 15 minutes to compress to 100psi. If
you're willing to suffer the wait, then it'll do the job for you.

tcsinstructables antagonizer 1 year ago Reply

Ive seen a larger tank on youtube that uses 2 fridge

compressors,, Im thinking on trying this myself, but for now, I am
intersted in trying to make one, and ensure that it runs at least
45 psi, which shouldnt be a problem,,,, my issue is, I dont know
anything about compressor,,, I have one in my garage that I
think has a leak in the tank, not sure,, and dont know how to find
the leak if it does,,, now,, I need at least 1.2 cfm at 45 psi to run
my high speed etching machine,,, how would I tell what cfm its
running? after my first attemp at this, with a single compressor, I
will try the double compressor....

sparhawk7 tcsinstructables 1 year ago Reply

take a sponge and soapy water. apply liberally. look for

bubbles. idk how to fix the leak itself though. sorry.

zappenfusen 1 year ago Reply

What exactly is inside the sealed compressor case? A compressor,

right? I've often wondered how the refrigerant compressors worked but
have yet to take a sawzall to one. Neat idea and one I'll try as I've a
wealth of old r.t.u. compressors that lost pressure years ago pre freon
ban. The cheap pancake I use now I put in the yard and run a line into
the garage due to the 110 db. noise.
Web page converted to PDF with the PDFmyURL PDF creation API!
 antagonizer (author) zappenfusen 1 year ago Reply

Basically yes, and a lot of oil as well that it uses to muffle the
sound. I got curious once too.

DavidFerAndersson antagonizer 1 year ago Reply

Hi, thank you for a good 'ible!

I've been looking to do this for my airbrush setup since the tiny
piston compressor Im using it making enough noise to resonate
to the downstairs neighbours..
But, I've read elsewere that these compressors let the oil travel
through the lines, is this an issue you've noticed? If this is the
case, I guess it would dry eventually..

Thanks again!

antagonizer (author) DavidFerAndersson 1 year ago Reply

I wouldn't worry. I've never had that happen and I've built 6. Btw,
oil is good for air tools, tho for an airbrush, you should use a
moisture trap regardless. That way, if it did happen, you
wouldn't even notice.

DavidFerAndersson antagonizer 1 year ago Reply

Cool, thanks!
How often do you need to refill the oil in the compressors?

Im using a tiny moisture trap close to the gun at the moment, but
Web page converted to PDF with the PDFmyURL PDF creation API!
 I need to get a new manometer, so Im probably gonna get a
combined separator / manometer.

antagonizer (author) DavidFerAndersson 1 year ago Reply

Never. The oil in the compressor is, essentially, there to baffle

sound, and tho it does act as part of it's operation, it doesn't use
any of it up. As long as you didn't spill any during the build by
flipping it upside down, you won't need to top it up, which you
can do with some 10w30, btw. The more moisture separation,
the better. I'd recommend getting a filter/regulator with a built in
water trap on the tank end, and an inline hose moisture trap.
Both can be acquired from airbrush shops. Water in your lines is
the biggest enemy with the air eraser.

DavidFerAndersson antagonizer 1 year ago Reply

Thank you for your exellent replies!

Im just getting started with airbrushing, so theres quite a bit to
figure out.
Thanks again!

antagonizer (author) DavidFerAndersson 1 year ago Reply

Just remember, if you build one get a tank that has the pressure
switch in the tank, like most pancake tanks have. If you see a
switch like this one, it won't regulate properly for you.

Web page converted to PDF with the PDFmyURL PDF creation API!
 kevohill 1 year ago Reply

I've been looking into upgrading my pancake for a while, but I'm not
sure WHOM I should talk to in order to get a fridge drained. My
recycling center has plenty of ACs and fridges, but I haven't taken any
since I've had no luck finding "professionals" on Google. I imagine I'm
just not searching for the right things. Can anyone help guide my
search? (I'm located in Massachusetts, USA)

antagonizer (author) kevohill 1 year ago Reply

You can try appliance repair companies. They should have the
equipment to drain, and recycle the gas. If you find one of the
small water coolers, they have a great little condenser in them
for this project. That way you don't have to cart away a heavy
fridge or ac unit.

zappenfusen 1 year ago Reply

Would the use of the compressor from a 3 ton roof top unit cause any
specific problems as compared to a refrigerator compressor?

Web page converted to PDF with the PDFmyURL PDF creation API! 1 year ago
 antagonizer (author) zappenfusen 1 year ago Reply

If it runs off of 110 and you can pipe it in, I don't see why not.
Pressure is regulated through the switch, so there's no risk of
over overloading the tank. With that criteria any refrigerant
compressor would work.

stechi 1 year ago Reply

Very interesting ible.

From the video I gather you re planning to use this to supply air for an
air brush. I t might be good to say that in the instructions, in case
anyone thinks they can use this for their scuba diving tanks or
something.
What happened to the refrigerant? Old fridges contain nasty Freon that
is illegal to discharge and newer ones contain methane etc, which is a
bit explosive, you might want to warn people about that.

antagonizer (author) stechi 1 year ago Reply

Scuba, btw requires upwards of 3000psi to fill, and any

fridge/standard compressor is unlikely to exceed 130-140 so no
worries. Also, a scuba compressor pumps 'food grade' air which
is different that what comes out of a standard compressor. Folks
with a diving permit would likely be aware of that.

antagonizer (author) stechi 1 year ago Reply

Great point. I'm not big on caveats since I figure people will
figure those things out by themselves, but in this case it would
make sense. I would hope, tho that people would take their old
units to the nearest recycling depot to be drained first, and not
just start cutting lines haphazardly.

Web page converted to PDF with the PDFmyURL PDF creation API!
 boatingman 1 year ago Reply

This is a great idea and I'm going to start on one today. Thank you.

We have a be nice comment policy.

Please be positive and constructive.

I Made it! Add Images Make Comment

FEATURED CHANNELS

Intel IoT Life Hacks Beauty Woodworking Minecraft Breakfast Laser Cut Organizing Arduino

Web page converted to PDF with the PDFmyURL PDF creation API!
 Newsletter Mobile About Us Find Us Resources
Join 2 million + to receive instant Download our apps! Who We Are Facebook For Teachers
inspiration in your inbox. Advertise Youtube Artists in Residence
Android »
iOS » Contact Twitter Gift Pro Account
enter email I'm in!
Windows » Jobs Forums
Pinterest
Help Answers
Google+
Sitemap
Tumblr

© 2015 Autodesk, Inc. Terms of Service | Privacy Statement | Legal Notices & Trademarks | Mobile Site

Web page converted to PDF with the PDFmyURL PDF creation API!