‘TECHNOLOGY OF TEXTILE PRINTING ?RACTICAL TECHNOLOGY OF TEXTILE PRINTING ~ PRACTICAL SUBJECT CODE: 36155 S.No] Date List of Experiments Marks | Signature T Direct style of printing on cotton with hot brand reactive dyes by steaming method 2 ‘ect style of printing using pigments on cotton, PIC blends using water base substitute paste 3 fect style of printing on polyester using disperses dyes. (Print - Dry — HTHP steaming method) q Printing with white and color khadi pastes (Print ~Dry ~ eure) 3 Printing with Metallic powder pastes (Silver and gold) 6 Tie & dye — resist style of Coloration using reactive dyes. (white & multi color effect) 7 Batik style of printing (white & color resist) using cold brand reactive dyes / Azoic dyes. 8 White and Vat color discharge printing on reactive dyed / padded cotton fabric 9 White and pigment discharge printing on reactive dyed / padded cotton fabric 10 White and pigment resist printing on reactive ground i Burt out style of printing on P/C blend (white 7 pastel dyed) 12 Analysis of printed design for number of colors, style of printing, method of printing, repeat and colour estimation for given meterage Prepared by K. Ramamurthi, Lecturer (Sr.Gr),‘TECHNOLOGY OF TEXTILE PRINTING PRACTICAL, Ex.No:1 Date:.. DIRECT STYLE OF PRINTING ON COTTON USING HOT BRAND REACTIVE DYES BY STEAMING METHOD AIM To print the cotton fabric with reactive hot brand dyes using direct style by steaming method. RECIPE Reactive dyes -2-5% Urea -5-10% Resist salt -1-15% Sodium bi-carbonate -1-2.5% Sodium alginate thickener - 2-5% Defoamer 0.5% Water - balance Total = 100 parts PROCEDURE Esesesrannaal The fabric is printed using screen printing method ~ above recipe is used for preparation of print paste. PASTE PREPARATION Hot water at 80° c is taken. Resist salt and sodium bi-carbonate ee dissolved with stirring followed by sprinkling alginate powder. The paste is kept for 8 - 12 hrs. After cooling urea and reactive colours (pre dissolved with 40° water) are added. In this process the printing paste containing sodium alginate as a thickener to act as a vehicle for carrying the dye on to the cloth. To prevent the spreading of colour on the cloth by capillary action beyond the limits of define dportion in tle pattern. Sodium-bi-carbonate [a mild alkali] preferred for which decompos:s during steaming to release alkali. Resist salt [sodium meta nitro benzere sulphonate] act as mild oxidizing agent protecting reactive colours from ary Prepared by K. Ramamurthi, Lecturer (Sr.Gr), 2~ ‘TECHNOLOGY OF TEXTILE PRINTING PRACTICAL, $ reducing atmosphere in steamers. Resist salt improves the better colour yield and brightness of print. Urea is used for dye dissolution and as a hygroscopic agent which absorbs moisture from steam and help better diffusion of colour in the fibre during steaming. PROCESS Print — dry-fixation is carried out by steaming Print t Dry at 100-120°C for 5 mins 4 Steaming with saturated steam at 102°e for 5-12mins (using star ager or loop ager) t Cold wash z Hot wash at 60° Hot soaping at 60-90 ° ¢ with 1-2 gpl non-ionic detergent ~ t Hot wash at 80° 4 Cold wash ‘ Dye fixing treatment with cationic dye fixing agent 1-3gh! ‘ Dry RESULT The cotton fabric is printed with reactive hot brand dyes using direct sty by print — dry ~ steam method perfectly Prepared by K. Ramamurthi, Lecturer (Sr.Gr),‘TECHNOLOGY OF TEXTILE PRINTING PRACTICAL, Ex. No.: 2 Date:, DIRECT STYLE OF PRINTING USING PIGMENTS ON COTTON & P/C BLENDS USING WATER BAASE SUBSTITUTE PASTE AIM To print the cotton und p/c blend fabric by using pigment colours. PRINCIPLE ‘The binder polymer binds are pigment on the fabric and good fastness obtained SEQUENCE OF PROCESS 1. Fabric preparation 2. Printing paste preparation 3. printing 4. Drying 5. Curing RECIPE Pigment dyes -2-5% Binder -8-12% Water base thickener -3-4% Urea -2-5% Fixcer resin - 1.0% Liquor ammonia -0.5-1% Acid liberating agent 0.51% Water - Balance - 100 parts Prepared by K, Ramamurthi, Lecturer (Sr.Gr), 4‘TECHNOLOGY OF TEXTILE PRINTING PRACTICAL PROCESS Print Dry : 100° Cure / polymerization . for 4-5 minutes PROCEDURE ‘The fabric is printed with above recipe. After printed the fabric is dried at 100% and then cure at 150% for 4-5 minutes — given a washing ~ mild soaping treatment then dry the fabric. RESULT ‘The given cotton and p/c blended fabric is printed using pigment colours perfectly. Prepared by K. Ramamurthi, Lecturer (Sr.Gr), 5‘TECHNOLOGY OF TEXTILE PRINTING PRACTICAL, Ex, No.: 3 Date DIRECT STYLE OF PRINTING ON POLYESTER FABRIC WITH DISPERSE DYES USING DIRECT STYLE BY HTHP STEAMING METHOD AIM To print the polyester fabric with disperse dyes using direct style by HTHP steaming method. PROCEDURE The fabric is printed using screen printing method. The following recipe is used for preparation of paste are RECIPE Disperse dyes = 596 Citric acid/tartaric acid = 12% Defoamer = 05-10% Leveling agent (Lyogen DFT) = 12% Sodium chlorate (mild oxidizing Agent) = 0.50% Acid resisting thickener or Indalka / CMC/ Modified guar gum } = balance Total = 100 parts PASTE PREPARATION Disperse dye is pasted with dispersing agent using warm water followed by the addition of citric acid (or) tartaric acid, defoamer, leveling agent, sodium chlorate, acid resistant thickening and stirred well continuously to get clean paste. Prepared by K. Ramamurthi, Lecturer (Sr.Gr), 6‘TECHNOLOGY OF TEXTILE PRINTING PRACTICAL, PROCESS [HTHP STEAMING METHOD] Print Y Dry at 100% for 3-5 minus Steaming at 130°e for 10 mins ’ (HTHP stamer is used to steaming the sample at 30PSI pressure) ’ Wash Reduction clearing removal of unfixed dyes 2 gpl sodium hydro sulphite 2 gpl - caustic soda 2 gpl = nonionic soap at 60°e for 5-10 minutes Hot wash at 80° ¥ Cold wash + Dry RESULT The given polyester sample is printed with disperse dyes using direct style and fixed by HTHP steaming method. Prepared by K. Ramamurthi, Lecturer (Sr.Gr), 7‘TECHNOLOGY OF TEXTILE PRINTING PRACTICAL, Ex. No. 4 Dater. PRINTING WITH WHITE AND COLOUR KHADI PASTES (PRINT - DRY - CURE) AIM To print the given hosiery fabrics by using white and colour khadi pastes. PRINCIPLE It is one of the special types of printing most widely used. This is sharp and small design which is difficult to produce in discharge printing. It is possible by this method. So it is popular. The dyed cloth is printed with a paste contains a white opaque pigment like TiO, (Titanium di oxide). Thus produces a white effect on a coloured ground. TiO; pigments are mostly used because of their following advantages. 1. High opacity Covering power x e Inertngss to organic binder S Excellent whiteness ‘There are two types of khadi printing namely 1. White khadi printing ' 2. Colour khadi printing PROCEDURE WHITE KHADI PRINTING In this process TiO, is mixed with binder, urea, fixer CCL, Diammoniun phosphate with emulsion thickener without colouring pigment. This printing past thoroughly mixed and printed on the fabric in general printing method. It produces white design on colour ground. COLOUR KHADI PRINTING In this printing the above mentioned additions are mixed with colow pigment and the fabric is printed with general printing method, It produces colow- Khadi on white (or) coloured ground. After printing the material is dry at 100°c and Prepared by K. Ramamurthi, Lecturer (Sr.Gr), 8‘TECHNOLOGY OF TEXTILE PRINTING PRACTICAL it is cured at 130 - 150° for 3 - 5 minutes - cold water — hot water at 60° — hot soap at 80 — 90°c with 1 — 2 gpl non-ionic detergent - hot wash at 80% — cold wash ~ dry. RECIPE COLOUR KHADI WHITE KHADI Pigment dyes- 2 to 5% TiO, - 30% White pigment TiO, - 30% Binder - 30% film forming polymer Binder - 30% Fixer CCL - 1- 2% (Cross linking Agent) Fixer CCL -1-2% Glycerine - 2- 3% (Anti choking Agent) Glycerine -2-3% Urea - 2~5% (Hygroscopic agent Urea -2-5% DAP - 0.5 ~ 1.0% Catalyst DAP = 0.5 ~1.0% Kerosene emulsion paste - balance Kerosene Emulsion paste - balance 100 paris 100 paris RESULT ‘The given fabric is printing with white and colour khadi printing by direct style. Prepared by K. Ramamurthi, Lecturer (Sr.Gr), 9‘TECHNOLOGY OF TEXTILE PRINTING PRACTICAL, Ex. No.: 5-A Datetssssssseessen PRINTING WITH METALLIC POWDER PASTE (SILVER) AIM To obtain the silver prints efféct on the given fabric. RECIPE Aluminium powder - 15% Silver binder - 80% Fixer CCL - 2.0% Glycerine - 3.0% -100 parts SEQUENCE OF PROCESS Print . Dry at 80° ’ Cure at 130 — 150°e for 3 ~5 mins. PROCEDURE ‘These prints are usually produced on dark grounds. Metallic powder used to obtain silver printing. This is also one of the special types of printing. This is a metallic printing. Since we are using metailic powders like aluminium powder. This is something like khadi printing. While a company introduced such as special binder for the same to effective prints. It may be printed by any one of the method. In the print portion since the presence of aluminum powder which is produced silver like prints. RESULT ‘The given fabric is developed by using silver printing. Prepared by K, Ramamurthi, Lecturer (Sr.Gr), 10‘TECHNOLOGY OF TEXTILE PRINTING PRACTICAL, Ex, No. 5-B Date: PRINTING WITH METALLIC POWDER PASTE (GOLD) AIM To develop the gold prints effect on the given fabric. RECIPE Bronze powder - 15% Gold binder - 80% Fixer CCL -2.0% Glycerine -3.0% -100 parts SEQUENCE OF PROCESS Print ’ Dry at 80° Cure at 130 - 150° ¢ for 3 ~ 5 mins. PROCEDURE ‘These prints are usually produced on dark grounds. Metallic powder used to obtain gold effect printing. : This is a metallic printing also one of the special types of printing using metallic powder like bronze powder. This is same like khadi printing such as special binder for the same to get effective printing, 15% of bronze powder is pasted with 80% of gold binder, 2% of fixer CCL is added to produce better fastness. In printed portion since the presence of bronze powder which is produced gold like prints. RESULT The given sample of hosiery fabric is developed by using gold printing. Prepared by K. Ramamurthi, Lecturer (Sr.Gr), i‘TECHNOLOGY UF TEXTILE PRINTING PRACTICAL Ex. No.: 6 Date: TIE AND DYE RESIST STYLE OF COLOURATION USING REACTIVE DYES (WHITE & MULTI COLOUR EFFECT) AIM To obtain the tie and dye style effect on the given cotton fabric using reactive dyes (white and multi colour effect). PROCEDURE Tie and dye style is basically a resist process. The portions to be resisted are tied using a waxed thread or hydrophobic thread will prevent the penetration of dye liquor into the tied area. Yarn hanks (or) fabric to be tie and dyed as per required pattern before dyeing, A dye bath is set with the required conditions and required dye class (reactive dyes). The tied material is entered and waxed in the bath. After required colour is picked up the material is given fixation treatment and washed, squeezed and dried. On opening the tie knot the residual portions are revealed. This gives a white resist pattern on a coloured back ground. Multi colour, resist are also possible by repeated tying and dyeing. This style is very simple and requires less equipment. RESULT The given cotton fabric is printed using reactive dyes under tie and dye style white and multi colour effect. Prepared by K. Ramamurthi, Lecturer (Sr.Gr), 2‘TECHNOLOGY OF TEXTILE PRINTING PRACTICAL, Ex. No.: 7 Date: BATIK STYLE OF PRINTING (WHITE AND COLOUR RESIST) USING COLD BRAND REACTIVE DYES /AZOIC DYES AIM To obtain the batik effect on the given fabric. PROCESS Waxing — (apply molten wax with brush) — dyeing — washing (cold water) ~ de-waxing (waxed material into the boiled water and wooden spoon used. Take out the molten wax) — Washing — dry. PROCEDURE This is a mechanical resist process. In which the resist design is applied with hydrophobic wax. Mixture of paraffin wax and beeswax are (1:1 to 1:3) used to get good crackling and adhesion effect. The well prepared fabric is applied with molten wax by brush on special tool (or) blocks as per desired pattem preferably on both side of the fabric. The, wax is solidified on drying. The fabric is crushed by hand to form cracks in the waxed area. The cracks will give way for colour diffusion during subsequent dyeing. After crackling, the fabric is dyed using azoic or cold brand reactive dyes to the required ground shade and cold wash. The wax is removed by treating in hot water bath 70 — 80° followed by hot soap and cold wash. The dewaxed areas produce a white resist pattern with fine hairline cracks, which are not reproducible. Multicoloured resist effects are also possible repeated waxing and dyeing operation. RESULT The given cotton fabric is developed with white and colour batik style effect. Prepared by K. Ramamurthi, Lecturer (Sr.Gr), 13‘TECHNOLOGY OF TEXTILE PRINTING PRACTICAL, Ex. No: 8-A Date: WHITE AND VAT COLOUR DISCHARGE PRINTING ON REACTIVE DYED / PADDED COTTON FABRIC AIM To produce the white discharge effects on reactive dyed / padded cotton fabric. PRINCIPLE ‘The fabric is uniformly dyed with dischargeable reactive dyes (Remazol dyes). Print with thickened solution of discharging agent (Rongalite C) and steaming which destroyed the dye present in the printed area. So that white design is produced on colour ground. Thi RECIPE is known as discharge printing. Rongalite C 12 ~ 18% Discharging agent Potassium carbonate 8— 10% alkali Glycerin 2. -5% Hygroscopic agent Sodium hydroxide 0.5 — 1% strong alkali TiO2 (1:1 paste) 1 ~2% whitening agent Optical brightener 0.5% to improve whitenéss Thickening paste remaining 100 parts PROCESS Fabric preparation — preparation of printing paste ~ printing - drying - steaming ~ washing. Print with above recipe and dry then steam at 102% for 8-12 mins and then washed and dried. RESULT: — The given fabric is printed with white discharge on reactive ground. Prepared by K. Ramamurthi, Lecturer (Sr.Gr), 14‘TECHNOLOGY OF TEXTILE PRINTING PRACTICAL, Ex. No.: 8-B Date:., WHITE AND VAT COLOUR DISCHARGE PRINTING ON REACTIVE DYED / PADDED COTTON FABRIC AIM To obtain the vat colour discharge printing effect on reactive dyed / padded on cotton fabric. PROCEDURE ‘The fabric is uniformly dyed with dischargeable reactive dyes (Remazol dyes). Print with thickener solution at non-dischargeable vat dye and steaming which destroyed the dye present in the printed area (i.e.) the ground and deposit the vat dye on the printed area. So that the coloured design is produced. PADDING RECIPE Discharge reactive dye - 10 gpl Urea -2gpl Sodium bicarbonate - 10 —20gpl Sodium alginate (3%) - 50 gpl Resist salt - 10-20 gpl 100 parts Pad — dry — print with non ~ dischargeable vat dyes. PRINTING PASTE Vat dye (non dischargeable vat colour) - 5% Rongolite C (Discharging agent) - 15% Potassium carbonate -8-10% Glycerine (penetrant) -2-5% Sodium alginate - Balance 100 parts Print with above recipe dye and then steam at 100 ~ 102% for 8 — 12 minutes and then washed. Prepared by K. Ramamurthi, Lecturer (Sr.Gr), 15‘TECHNOLOGY OF TEXTILE PRINTING PRACTICAL, PROCESS Print ¥ Dry — temperature not exceeding 60 ~ 80° Y Cool upto 25°e for better colour yield Y Immediately steaming 8 — 12 minutes at 102% (Remove air from steamer before steaming) 7 Cold wash ~ oxidation bath 1 - 2 gpl HO, at 60° ¢ + Hot wash 60 ~ 80° ¢ > cold wash — dry RESULT ‘The given cotton fabric is printed by using vat dyes under discharge style (vat colour discharge printing). Prepared by K. Ramamurthi, Lecturer (Sr.Gr),, 16‘TECHNOLOGY OF TEXTILE PRINT.NG PRACTICAL Ex. No.: 9 Date: WHITE AND PIGMENT DISCHARGE PRINITNG ON REACTIVE DYED / PADDED COTTON FABRIC AIM To obtain the pigment discharge prints on reactive dyed / padded cotton fabric. PROCEDURE Dye the fabric uniformly with dischargeable reactive dyes (Remazol). Print with printing paste containing discharging agent (Rongalite C) and pigment dyes. Steam at 100 ~ 102% for 10 minutes which destroys the ground colour and deposit the pigment dyes on printed portion. So the coloured design produced on the coloured ground. This is known as colour discharge printing on reactive dyes ground with pigment dyes. PADDING RECIPE Dischargeable reactive dyes - 10 gpl Urea -2 gpl Sodium bicarbonate - 10-20 gpl Sodium alginate (3% paste) ~ - 50 gpl Resist salt. - 10-20 gpl - 100 parts Padding with above recipe dry and then print with pigment dyes. PRINTING RECIPE (COLOUR DISCHARGE) Pigment paste = 80% Pigment dyes - 3.0% Fixer CCL. = 2.0% Rongalite C = 15.0% ~ 100 parts Prepared by K, Ramamurthi, Lecturer (Sr.Gr), 7‘TECHNOLOGY OF TEXTILE PRINTING PRACTICAL WHITE DISCHARGE Pigment paste -- 85% et Rongalite C = 15.0% ee - 100 parts Print with the above recipe, dry, steam at 100 ~ 102° ¢ for 10 minutes and then wash. ‘The steps are as follows Fabre preparation Dye with dischargeable reactive dyes Preparation * print paste Print with printing pate (reducing agent ~ RongaliteC) Dry at 100° aaa 5 minutes Steam at 100 — ing cc for 10 minutes Washing and then drying = RESULT : The given cotton fabric is printed by using pigment dyes under dischargeable style (white and colour pigment discharge printing). . Prepared by K. Ramamurthi, Lecturer (Sr.Gr), 18TECHNOLOGY OF TEXTILE PRINTING PRACTICAL. Ex. No.: 10 Date WHITE AND PIGMENT RESIST PRINTING ON REACTIVE GROUND AIM To obtain the resist styles of printing effects on reactive ground. RECIPE (COLOUR RESIST) Citric acid -5- 6% Pigment dyes -2-5% Binder - 10-12% Fixer - 1.0% Kerosene Emulsion paste = remaining - 100 parts. RECIPE (WHITE RESIST) Citric acid - 6% Kerosene Emulsion paste - remaining - 100 parts. PREPARATION OF PRINTING PASTE Take water to this add citric acid and mix with thickening with constant stirring to get paste. PROCEDURE In this method the fabric is printed with printing paste containing resisting agent with pigment dye. Then it is padded with remazol dye solution. Print above with paste, dry and nip pad with following dye solution. Prepared by K. Ramamurthi, Lecturer (Sr.Gr), 19TECHNOLOGY OF TEXTILE PRINTING PRACTICAL PADDING RECIPE Dye (Remazol) -5-10 gpl Urea -S gpl Resist salt - 10-20 gpl Sodium bicarbonate - 10-0 gpl Sodium alginate (3%) - 50 gpl Water - remaining = 100 parts. After padding - dry ~ steam at 102° for 8 - 10 minutes. To fix the dyes then washing, soaping, wash and then dry. ‘After padding — dry in float dryer at 100°c. neutral steaming for 8 — 10 minutes at 102°e — cold wash — hot wash at 60 - 80°c — hot soap 1 ~ 2 gpl non ionic soap at 70 — 80° — hot wash — cold wash ~ dry. RESULT ‘The given cotton fabric is printed with white and pigment colour resist style of printing on reactive ground. Prepared by K. Ramamurthi, Lecturer (Sr.Gr), 20‘TECHNOLOGY OF TEXTILE PRINTING PRACTICAL Ex. No. 11 Date:, BURNT OUT STYLE OF PRINTING ON P/C BLEND (WHITE / PASTEL DYED) AIM To obtain the bumt out style on the given white / pastel dyed p/c blended fabric. PRINCIPLE Burt out style involve localized dissolution of cellulosi¢ component in a ple or plv blended fabric. This effect gives transparent, soft and airy feel to the fabric. Imitations of tappet or embossed effect are achieved. The base fabric is made up of polyester or silk base weave. The float surface is of satin weave or velvet piles with cotton or viscose. ACID LIBERATING SALTS 1, Sodium bi sulphate - 12% 2. Aluminium sulphate (or). 3, Sodium hydrogen phosphate = 15-20% Direct addition of acid to the paste will not be stable. PRINT RECIPE Aluminium sulphate - 12-20% Glycerine -5-8% Wetting agent -2.0% Modified guar gum (or) CMC (or) British gum, - remaining - 100 parts Prepared by K. Ramamurthi, Lecturer (Sr.Gr), 21e ‘TECHNOLOGY OF TEXTILE PRINTING PRACHICAL, PROCESS . Print ¥ * Drying at moderate temperature Curing at 120 - 140° c for 2-3 minutes . Washing ¥ Neutralizing Y ‘Hot wash Y Cold wash Incase of white goods final bleach with H,0,, Naocl, Cave! gives better whiteness, Incase of p/c blended dye only with disperse dyes. The carbonized printed area gives a deeper and brighter look compared to de-lustered blend dyed area. ve RESULT - ‘The burnout style is obtained in the given the p/c blended fabric, s Prepared by K. Ramamurthi, Lecturer (Sr.Gr), 22 TECHNOLOGY OF TEXTILE PRINTING PRACTICAL Ex. No. 12 Date:. ANALYSIS OF PRINTED DESIGN FOR NUMBER OF COLOURS, STYLE OF PRINTING, METHOD OF PRINTING, REPEAT AND COLOUR ESTIMATION FOR GIVEN METERAGE AIM ‘Yo analyze the printed design for number of colours, style of printing, method of printing, repeat and colour estimation for given meterage. PROCEDURE I. ANALYSIS OF PRINTED DESIGN FOR NUMBER OF COLOURS Jt is done by visual method. By watching the given printed sample carefully, we can observe the number of colours used for printing. Il. STYLE OF PRINTING There are three different style of printings are used. Style of print for the given for finding the printed sample, We have followed the following ideas. i, Direct style ii, Discharge style ili, Resist style *IIL. METHOD OF PRINT i. Soreen print ii, Rotary print iii, Flat bed iv. Repeat IV. COLOUR ESTIMATION FOR GIVEN METERAGE RESULT We analyzed the printed design for number of colours, style of printing, method of printing, repeat and colour estimation for given meterage perfectly. Prepared by K. Ramamurthi, Lecturer (Sr.Gr), 23