TOWER

BOOKCASE

© 2014 August Home Publishing Co.

 r
Designe
Project
Tower
Bookcase
Featuring a classic look
with plenty of style and
storage, this two-tone
finished bookcase is sure
to look at home in almost
any room in the house.
Many years ago, one of the first woodwork-
ing projects I ever attempted was a bookcase.
Thinking I knew a thing or two about style,
I designed it myself. Surprisingly, I ended up
using some of the same techniques shown
here — a plywood case with adjustable
shelves, shelf standards recessed in grooves
in the case sides, and a solid-wood face frame
to cover the exposed plywood edges. But that
is where the similarities end.
Sure, my bookcase worked for its intended
purpose. I mean, it held books. But it was
completely utilitarian in appearance. Fast-
forward to this beautifully designed book-
case, and you can see how some small details
and the right molding treatments can take an
ordinary bookcase and make it look special.
The first thing that catches your eye on this
project is the two-tone finish. While the top
cap and back panel have a cherry finish, the
rest of the bookcase is painted. This allowed
me to use inexpensive poplar lumber on the
face frame and moldings.
The stiles on the front of the case have
evenly spaced stopped flutes. While these
may look complicated, I’ll show you how to
make them in the shop with a handheld router
and a simple-to-build jig.
Finally, moldings are applied to the base
and top of the bookcase. But don’t worry if
these moldings look difficult to make; I used
some standard moldings purchased from a
home center to speed up the build process.
With simple construction and eye-catching
details, this project is sure to be a favorite.

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Construction Overview / OVERALL DIMENSIONS: 273⁄4"W x 72”H x 155⁄8"D

Three-piece cap assembled

from solid cherry stock

NOTE: Case should be Recessed standards

anchored to wall give flexibility to
shelf spacing

Crown molding can be

shop-made or purchased

NOTE: Top panel

attached to case
sides with a
rabbet joint
Hardwood edging covers
plywood edges of shelves

Face frame is
attached to
case using
tongue and NOTE: Case
groove joints and shelves
are made from
inexpensive
plywood

{ The contrasting cherry cap and

painted case assembly combine for
an elegant look.

NOTE: Dadoes
in the case
sides hold
the bottom
shelf

NOTE: Face frame Pocket hole joinery

and moldings is used to assemble
constructed from face frame
solid poplar
{ The stopped flutes in the face
frame stiles are simple to make
using an easy-to-build router jig.

2 WoodsmithPlans.com WS21422 ©2014 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
 TOP 17!/4
PANEL
11#/4 B 21!/2
a. b.
!/4
11!/4
17!/4 #/4 B
FRONT
SECTION
17!/4 A VIEW

TOP #/4 C
CORNER
A A FRONT
E VIEW
BACK CASE !/4
PANEL SIDE

c. A

71!/4 67!/4 C 4
A
NOTE: Case sides,
top panel, and
bottom shelf D
are #/4" plywood.
Back panel is !/4"
plywood Front of
edging is
flush with
bottom
17!/4 of side
BOTTOM SHELF rabbet
EDGING
Typical Plywood D
endgrain 22 d. D
(#/4" shown) C
11 1!/4 1!/4
#/16 %/8 %/8
C
Typical Plywood !/4
endgrain A
BOTTOM (#/4" shown)
SHELF 21!/2 !/4
NOTE: Bottom shelf edging
Typical Plywood is !/4"-thick hardwood

Build the CASE

endgrain !/4
(#/4" shown) !/4 TOP SECTION VIEW

The bookcase starts off as a plywood
case, with dadoes and rabbets in the
case sides to house the bottom shelf and
top panel.17!/4
Rabbets are also cut along the
front and back edges of the case sides.
The rabbet on the back edge supports
the back panel later on. The rabbet on
the front edge forms a tongue that the
face frame will eventually fit over. A
couple of grooves on the inside face of
the case sides allow a pair of metal shelf
standards to sit flush with the surface.
MATERIAL. Just a quick note about the
material. With the exception of the
back panel and the top cap, I painted
the entire bookcase. If you choose the
same finishing method, it’s not neces-
sary to use the highest quality plywood
available. A smooth plywood that will

How-To: ROUT DADOES & RABBETS take paint well, like birch or maple, is
all that is needed. For my case, I used
some less expensive maple plywood.
1 2 a.
THE CASE. The case is made up of two
Typical Plywood sides, a top panel, bottom shelf, and
endgrain
!/4
back panel. The bottom shelf is slightly
(#/4" shown)
17!/4 !/2"
#/4 narrower than the top panel to allow
dado
A clean-out for the edging you’ll add later. The
bit Edge guide
Make one pass,
back panel is used to keep the case
END SECTION VIEW
then reset guide and square during assembly, but don’t cut
make second pass
it to size just yet. You’ll do that after the
Edge guide
a. case is dry assembled later on.
rides on bottom A DADOES & RABBETS. After cutting the ply-
end of
case side
!/4 wood panels for the sides, top, and bot-
#/4
tom shelf to size, I decided to tackle the
END SECTION VIEW dadoes and rabbets in the case sides first.
Since the case sides are each six feet long,
Rout Dado for Bottom Shelf. An Rout Rabbet for Top Panel. Adjust it would be difficult to form these with
edge guide attached to the router the edge guide to cut the rabbets on a dado blade at the table saw. Instead, I
makesPlywood
Typical quick work of these dadoes. the top inside face of each case side. opted to cut them using a router and an
endgrain
(#/4" shown) edge guide as shown at left.

3 3 WoodsmithPlans.com
WoodsmithPlans.com
WS21422
WS21316 ©2014©2014
AugustAugust
Home Home
Publishing
Publishing
Co. AllCo.
Rights
All Rights
Reserved.
Reserved.
 17!/4

17!/4
GROOVES. Next I turned to the table How-To: GROOVES, RABBETS & EDGING
saw equipped with a dado blade to cut
the grooves for the shelf standards (Fig- 1 2
ure 1 at right). It’s a good idea to have
A
the shelf standards you’re going to use Rip Aux. rip A
fence fence
on hand before making these cuts. This
allows you 17!/4to size the grooves so the 17!/4
%/8" dado
standards fit snug. A few test cuts in a blade a. END VIEW Dado a. END VIEW
blade
scrap piece are a good idea before mak- 1!/4 %/8
!/4
ing the final cuts in the case sides.
RABBETS. With the dado blade still
MORE17!/4 #/16
Outfeed
in the table saw, it’s simply a matter of support !/2

adding an auxiliary rip fence to make

the rabbets on the front and back edges
(Figure 2). Since these rabbets are mir-
ror images of one another (detail ‘d’
previous page), you can use the same
setup for both cuts. After making the
Cut the Grooves. Use a dado blade in Rabbets. Bury the dado blade in an
the table saw to cut the grooves that auxiliary rip fence to cut the rabbets
house the shelf standards. on the front and back edge.
17!/4

first cut, just flip the board to the other

17!/4 3 Rip
fence Stop
4 Rabbeted
support
face and make the second pass. block
SHELF EDGING. When the bookcase is Workpiece
Typical Plywood D

assembled, a small portion of the bot- endgrain

17!/4 !/2" flush-
(#/4" shown) Zero-clearance trim bit
tom shelf’s
Typical Plywood
front edge will be exposed insert with
above the cove molding. Because of
endgrain splitter C
(#/4" shown) END
this, a hardwood strip is used to cover a. !/4 SECTION a.
the plywood edge. To safely rip this NOTE: Push sled VIEW
is 6" x 24"- #/4" Stop
edge strip to size, I used the method plywood D
shown in Figure 3, at right. Sled D END
VIEW
This technique consists of a wide sled C

with a stop
Typical tacked on the end.Typical
Plywood Set the
Plywood
endgrain endgrain
sled(#/4"
against
shown)the rip fence with the(#/4" shown) Cut the Panel & Shelf Edging. This
other Flush Trim the Edging. A flush
edge positioned 1⁄4" from the blade and setup allows the thin edging strips to be trim bit in the router leaves a
lock the fence in position. Now it’s easy cut at the table saw safely. clean edge on the bottom.
to Plywood
Typical safely rip the thin strip from a wider
endgrain
workpiece.
(#/4" shown) While I had this setup in 5 NOTE: Case back not permanently
attached to case until later
place, I ripped the edging strips for the Back laid in place to keep
case square during
five adjustable shelves at the same time glue up E
and then set them aside. 17!/4 A
The hardwood strip is glued to the
bottom shelf and tacked in17!/4 place with C Slightly curved a. A
Typical Plywood cauls apply D
a pin nailer. The last step is to trim the endgrain
Case face rests on pressure across !/4
edging flush with the face of the shelf. (#/4" shown)
blocks while case side
Typical Plywood gluing
The quickest way to do this is to use a
endgrain
(#/4" shown) D
router and flush-trim bit (Figure 4). The
flush-trim bit leaves a nice, clean edge. Typical Plywood
endgrain
To keep the router from tipping on the (#/4" shown)
narrow edge, I clamped a wide board to
the shelf for more support. Assemble the Case. A pair of riser blocks gives clearance for the clamps. Use
DRY RUN. Assembling the case isn’t a pair of cauls to apply even pressure across the case side at the bottom shelf’s
complicated. But it does require a large, position. The back panel works great to keep the whole assembly square.
flat worksurface and a little patience.
A couple support boards placed under
the case sides allow plenty of room for panel and bottom shelf are oriented cor- GLUE IT UP. Glue the bottom shelf and
the clamps to slide underneath. And rectly, and they line up with the rabbet top panel in place and drop the back
two cauls at the bottom provide ade- on the front edge, as shown in detail ‘c’ panel in position to keep the whole
quate pressure on the shelf. on the opposite page. You can now mea- assembly square. (Don’t fasten it down
Start by dry assembling the sides, top sure the opening in the back and cut the yet.) Add the cauls and clamps, and the
panel, and bottom shelf. Be sure the top back panel to size. basic case is completed.

4 WoodsmithPlans.com WS21422 ©2014 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
Typical Plywood
 TOP RAIL H
J TOP FILLER
16!/2

a. b. 3 c.
I
8#/4 J
1!/2 H 3!/4

H F
16!/2 2
I 7 #/4
F 10&/16 UPPER
2 SIDE
1!/2" pocket STILE
17!/4 SECTION
17!/4 hole screw BLOCK VIEW
F
17!/4 #/4 SIDE
!/2 SECTION #/4 I
VIEW !/2" -rad.
Cove
#/4 molding

71!/4 G 4

F K 4
#/4 3!/2
STILE G
!/2
BACK VIEW !/2
(face frame) #/4 1

17!/4
Case d. e.
17!/4 Cove side FRONT
F
molding VIEW
8#/16 Cove Cove
BASE BOTTOM L molding
SIDE molding
RAIL 3 G
TRIM G
L F
!/4
!/2
L
16!/2 #/4
FRONT K
VIEW
13!/4 !/2
Cove K !/2" -rad.
Cove BASE molding
NOTE: Base trim made from 24!/2 K
1"-thick hardwood. Other molding FRONT TOP SECTION VIEW 4!/2
pieces are #/4"-thick hardwood TRIM
Typical Plywood
endgrain

Add the FACE FRAME & BASE MOLDING

Typical Plywood
Plywood
grain
hown)
With the case built, you can turn your
attention to making the face frame pieces
and adding some trim and molding.
Rather than installing the face frame
parts one at a time, pocket hole screws
are used to hold the entire assembly
endgrain (#/4" shown)
(#/4" shown)
together (detail ‘b’) before it’s attached FLUTED STILES. Each of the face frame
to the case. Three upper trim parts are stiles has four decorative stopped
glued to the face frame. They add some flutes on its face. These flutes are
depth to the frame, as well as provide a formed using a core box bit and a
place to mount the crown molding later plunge router. In order to keep the
on. But first, start with the stiles. spacing between each of the flutes con-
sistent, I built a simple jig that attaches

How-To: CUT STILE FLUTES Typical Plywood

endgrain
to my router. Shop Notebook on page 9
shows how to build this jig.
Typical Plywood USING THE JIG. After making the jig
(#/4" shown)
endgrain Fluting
Flutingjig,
jig, and cutting the stiles to finished
(#/4" shown)refer Stop
Stop
referto
topage
page99 block
block size, clamp one of the stiles to a flat
44 of
ofbit
bit NOTE:
NOTE:With
Withjig
jigagainst
againststart
start
surface. Position the start and stop
6&/16
6&/16 Start
Start block,
block,plunge
plungebitbitinto
intostile
stileand
and blocks as shown at left. Use a square
block
block rout
routto
tostop
stopblock
block of
ofbit
bit
44 4#/16
4#/16
to ensure they are 90° to the edge.
a. #/8"-dia. To rout the first flute, position the
core
box bit
b. jig’s spacers as shown in detail ‘a,’
at left. Set the bit to the depth of the
17!/4 flutes and make the first pass, mov-
#/16
ing from one stop block to the other.
Waste
Spacers F F Spacers
Now it’s just a matter of moving the
END SECTION VIEW END SECTION VIEW next spacer in line to the other side of
the jig, locking it in place, and making
Using Fluting Jig. After initial set up is complete (detail ‘a’), the fluting jig another pass. Do this for the final two
allows you to rout all of the flutes by moving one spacer after each pass. flutes. The setup for the last flute is
shown in detail ‘b.’ I found it beneficial

5 WoodsmithPlans.com WS21422 ©2014 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
 to use a test piece the same width as the How-To: MAKE FACE FRAME & TRIM
17!/4
stile to get a feel for using the jig.
There is just one last thing to do to each 1 2
of the stiles, and that’s to cut a groove on
F
the back face to fit over the tongue on
the front edge of the case. Since plywood Rip H
fence
thickness can vary, it may be necessary to Cut to waste
adjust the location of this groove so the side of layout
!/4" dado line, then sand
edge of the stile ends up flush with the blade smooth
outside of the case. This allows you to
avoid trimming the edge of the stile and a. END VIEW
making the flutes appear off-center. #/4 17!/4
RAILS. The bottom and top rails can a. TOP SECTION VIEW
now be cut to size. To ensure a perfect !/4
fit, I set the stiles in position on the case 1!/8
17!/4
and measured between them. Figure 2 !/4
at right shows the layout for the gentle
curve on the bottom edge of the top
Typical Plywood
rail. This endgrain
is easy to cut at the band saw. Cut Grooves. Locate grooves on Create the Curve. The top rail of the
ASSEMBLY. The
(#/4" shown)face frame is held back of stiles so outside edge is flush face frame has a gentle curve formed
together with pocket hole screws. with the outside face of the sides. on the bottom edge at the band saw.
Drill the holes for the screws and then
Backer
assemble the face frame as shown in 3
Typical Plywood
4 board
Figure 3. (Note that the bottom rail is endgrain 17!/4
not flush with the bottom edge of the (#/4" shown) I
stile.) The face frame now gets glued
and17!/4
clamped to the case.
Clamp holds F
FILLER & STILE BLOCKS. Next, I built up the parts flush !/2" cove
bit
top of the case with two stile blocks
and a filler. The stile blocks receive a a. END VIEW
cove profile on their bottom edges.
G
These are easy to make at the router
17!/4
table using a cove bit as shown in Fig-
ure 4 at right. Glue and clamp these !/2
three parts to the face frame, flush with Typical Plywood
!/2
17!/4 the top edge of the case. endgrain
(#/4" shown)
BASE TRIM. To give the bookcase a more
substantial-looking base, I added some
Typical Plywood Assemble the Face Frame. Some Stile Blocks. A cove profile on the
endgrain
base trim pieces cut from thicker stock. pocket hole screws on the back face bottom edge of the stile blocks is
(#/4" shown)
The front piece gets a decorative profile of the frame hold it together. simple to make at the router table.
cut on the bottom edge. I formed this
profile in two steps. 5 6 !/2" flush
trim bit
First, I clamped a scrap piece of wood
17!/4 1"-dia. Straight-
to the bottom of the trim (Figure 5) and Forstner bit
17!/4 using edge taped to
drilled the corners of the profile workpiece
a Forstner bit. Then it’s just a matter of
END VIEW
using a straight bit in the router table Typical Plywood K a.
endgrain
to remove the waste between the edges (#/4" shown)
(Figure 6). Since this is thick material, I NOTE: Make
Typical Plywood
made several passes to complete the cut.
endgrain several light
(#/4" shown) passes
Now simply miter the corners and attach Backer board Waste
clamped to
the base trim with glue and clamps. workpiece
COVE MOLDING. Since the cove moldings
on the base of the bookcase are painted,
I opted to use molding purchased from BasePlywood
Typical Profile.
Form the ends of the Clean Up the Waste. A straight bit
the home center (see Sources on page profile with a
endgrain Forstner bit, using a in the router table takes care of the
(#/4" shown)
10). After mitering the ends, the cove backer board for support. remaining waste. Take light cuts.
pieces are glued and tacked in place.
ywood
ain
wn) 6 WoodsmithPlans.com WS21422 ©2014 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
 Side crown molding
NOTE: Trim parts are P
CAP
Pocket hole FRONT
planed down to #/8" screw reinforces Q
a. 3!/2
from !/2"-thick hardwood 1!/4" Fh
miter joint N &/16 woodscrew
CAP SIDE
P P O
/4
Front crown
molding Front
27#/4 crown
15%/8 molding
M 3 2!/4
17!/4 25#/4 UPPER M
FRONT SIDE
14%/8 TRIM
N Top SECTION
23!/4 filler VIEW
UPPER 13#/8
Shelf standards
SIDE TRIM Side crown molding (%/8" x #/16"- 65#/4")

b.
Crown c. TOP d.
molding SECTION
VIEW &/16
NOTE: Front
P and side P
Top 17!/4
panel caps are
#/4"-thick Shelf Front
Case hardwood Case standard crown
side side molding
Back edge NOTE: Crown Case
of parts flush molding is 2!/4 side
with tongue 17!/4
purchased
on side N
FRONT
N
SECTION
VIEW
BACK VIEW

d
Completing the BOOKCASE
With the base molding complete, there MAKE THE TRIM. The three trim parts can ripped to final width. The left box
are just a few more components to add to be planed down from thicker mate- below shows the setup to rout the bull-
the bookcase. The adjustable shelves are rial. Rip the pieces to final width, but nose profile on the front edge of these
cut to size and banded with a hardwood Typicalleave them a little long. The corners
Plywood pieces. I opted to rout the bullnose
endgrain
strip on the front edge. The back panel(#/4"of shown) parts will need to be mitered
these before assembling the cap to avoid any
gets finished and installed. And like where they meet at the front edges. I tearout issues at the corners.
the bottom of the case, the top receives let the side pieces run long at the back With the bullnose routed, miter
a built-up treatment also. It consists of and then cut them to length once I had the front corners and screw the parts
some trim pieces, cove molding, and an a good fit at the corners. Then it’s just a together using pocket hole screws (cen-
assembled cap with a bullnose profile matter of gluing them in place. ter drawing below). Be careful to keep
that wraps around the entire top edge of
Typical Plywood
CAP IT OFF. The parts for the cap should the screwholes well back from the front
the case. I started with the trim.
endgrain also be left a little long after they are edge so they aren’t visible from below.
17!/4 (#/4" shown)

How-To: MAKE THE UPPER MOLDING 17!/4

Typical Plywood
endgrain
(#/4" shown)
NOTE:
O P
Set miter
NOTE: Screws to 45° Cove
!/2" installed on
roundover 17!/4 bottom side
bit of cap Miter sled
P
!%/16
a.
Sled
a. END VIEW SECT.
back Aux.
Bearing is VIEW
flush with fence O fence miter
Front fence
stop
#/4
#/8 Size to cove
Hardboard base

Bullnose. Position the bottom edge Assemble Cap. Pocket hole screws Miter Cut Sled. This simple sled is
of a roundover bit bearing as shown. secure the cap pieces. Be sure to used to make the compound miter
Rout both faces to make the profile. keep holes back from the edges. cuts on the crown molding.

7 WoodsmithPlans.com WS21422 ©2014 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
 1" brads used
17!/4 to install back panel
Since the cap is a stained and the a. SIDE SECTION
crown molding below it is painted, I VIEW

didn’t install the assembled cap just yet. Top

panel
CROWN MOLDING. Like the cove molding
E
on the base of the bookcase, I purchased BACK Brads
17!/4 PANEL
the crown molding for the top, as well.
17!/4
The right hand box at the bottom of the Shelf
previous page shows the simple sled I E supports
used to make the mitered cuts on the BACK b. Shelf
PANEL 11
corners of the molding. standard

Without the cap in place, I needed Q

another flat surface for the crown mold- Q SHELF 20!%/16
Side Shelf
ing to butt against while I installed it. support
I found that a piece of plywood with R
FRONT
the same outside dimensions as the NOTE: Shelves are SHELF SECTION
assembled cap worked perfectly. With #/4" plywood EDGING VIEW
the plywood clamped across the top, I
could then use some brads to nail the
bottom edge of the crown molding to FINISH. I opted to paint the shelf stan- ASSEMBLE. With the finishes applied,
the trim and face frame. dards the same color as the bookcase. I nailed the back panel in place with
SHELVES. The five adjustable shelves So now is a good time to install them. I some brads. I then screwed the cap to
are made in the same manner as the then applied three coats of a water-based the face frame and case sides through
bottom shelf. The poplar edge strips paint to the entire bookcase. The back
Typical Plywood predrilled holes. All that’s left is to
endgrain
are glued and pinned in position and panel and assembled cap are stained and
(#/4" shown) install the shelf support clips in the
then trimmed flush with a router. Set finished. To see more about the finishing standards and position the adjustable
the shelves aside for finishing. process, refer to Sources on page 10. shelves to your liking.

Materials, Supplies & Cutting Diagram Typical Plywood

endgrain
Typical Plywood
A Case Sides (2) 3 ⁄ ply. - 113endgrain
⁄4 x 711⁄4 J Top Filler (1) 1 (#/4" shown)
3⁄ x 3 ⁄ - 16 ⁄ 1 • (12) 11⁄2" Pocket Hole Screws
4 4 4 2
3 (#/4"
1 shown)
1
B Top Panel (1) ⁄4 ply. - 11 ⁄4 x 21 ⁄2 K Base Front Trim (1) 1 x 31⁄2 - 241⁄4 • (5 lin. ft.) 3⁄4" Cove Molding
C Bottom Shelf (1) 3 ⁄ ply. - 11 x 211⁄ L Base Side Trim (2) 1 x 31⁄2 - 131⁄4
4 2 • (44) 1" Brads
D Bottom Shelf Edging (1) 1⁄4 x 1 rgh. - 211⁄2 M Upper Front Trim (1) 3 ⁄ x 3 - 231⁄
8 4 • (5 lin. ft.) 11⁄4" Crown Molding
1⁄ ply. - 22 x 671⁄ 3⁄ x 3 - 133 ⁄
E Back Panel (1) 4 4 N Upper Side Trim (2) 8 8 • (4) 5⁄8" x 72" Shelf Standards w/Screws
F Stiles (2) 3 ⁄ x 3 - 711⁄ O Cap Front (1) 3⁄ x 31⁄ - 273 ⁄
4 4 4 2 4 • (16) Shelf Supports
3 ⁄ x 4 - 161⁄ 3⁄4 x 31⁄2 - 155 ⁄8
G Bottom Rail (1) 4 2 P Cap Sides (2) • (9) 11⁄4" Fh Woodscrews
H Top Rail (1) 3 ⁄ x 7 - 161⁄ Q Shelves (4) 3 ⁄ ply. - 11 x 2015 ⁄
4 2 4 16
I Upper Stile Blocks (2) 3 ⁄ x 3 - 83 ⁄ R Shelf Edging (4) 1⁄ x 1 rgh. - 2015 ⁄
4 4 4 16

#/4" x 7!/4"- 96" Poplar (4.8 Bd. Ft.)

F
H
17!/4 F

#/4" x 5!/2"- 60" Poplar (2.3 Bd. Ft.)

G I I J

1" x 5!/2"- 60" Poplar (2.9 Bd. Ft.)

L L K

ALSO NEEDED:
R D One - 48" x 96" sheet #/4" Maple Plywood
One - 24" x 96" sheet !/4" Cherry Plywood
!/2" x 3!/2"- 60" Poplar (1.5 Sq. Ft.)
N N M

#/4" x 5!/2"- 60" Cherry (2.3 Bd. Ft.)

P P O

8 WoodsmithPlans.com WS21422 ©2014 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
Shop
Notebook
Fluting Jig
The bookcase has evenly spaced flutes between flutes would have been a real BUILDING THE FLUTING JIG. The construction
on the face of each of the face frame stiles. struggle. Not to mention the possibility of the jig is fairly simple. It consists of a
A core box bit in a router is the quickest of the edge guide losing contact with the base and five guide bars all cut from 1⁄2"
way to form these flutes. I considered stile and spoiling the cut. Instead, I built Baltic birch plywood. Two slots along
using an edge guide attached to my this simple fluting jig to take care of both each side of the base allow the guide
router, but keeping consistent spacing those issues. bars to slide along the bottom of the
jig once the hardware is added. These
slots are easy to make with a straight
bit in the router table.
GUIDE BARS. If there’s one critical com-
NOTE: Jig base and guide ponent to the fluting jig, it’s the guide
bars made from !/2" Baltic
birch plywood bars. The width of the bars needs to be
exactly the same as the center-to-center
11 Router bit 8
centered on spacing of the flutes on your project
hole in base — in this case, 1⁄2"-wide. After they’re
1!/2
Workpiece
cut to size, drill the through holes and
BASE
1!/2" dia. countersink for the machine screws.
Locate holes GUIDE BARS ADD THE ROUTER. All that’s left is to drill
to fit router
base the hole in the base for the bit to pass
through and then mount your router
1!/2 %/8 to the base. I simply used the baseplate
from my router to mark the mounting
#/16"-wide holes on the jig base. Details ‘a’ and ‘b’
through slot
below show how to set up the jig.
Mounting
screw a. Core box bit b.
holes are
countersunk
in bottom
of base
Workpiece Workpiece
17!/4 !/2 17!/4
10 Position one guide Fifth guide bar
bar for routing remains in position
first flute to rout final flute
#10-24 x 1!/4"
Fh machine screw Slide second guide Slide one guide bar next to
w/nut & washer GUIDE BAR bar next to first bar to the previous bar to rout each
rout second flute subsequent flute

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Typical Plywood Typical Plywood
endgrain endgrain
 MAIL Project Sources
ORDER
SOURCES
The bookcase was painted with three
Woodsmith Store
800-444-7527 coats of Benjamin Moore Advance Fossil
(AF-65) with a satin finish. The cap and
Benjamin Moore back panel were stained with a mixture
855-724-6802 of three parts ZAR Cherry Stain and one
benjaminmoore.com
part Wood Kote Jel’d Cherry Stain, fol-
Woodkote lowed by two coats of spray lacquer.
800-843-7666 Manufacturers and retailers will
woodkote.com periodically redesign or discontinue
Zar some of their items. So you’ll want to
zar.com gather all the hardware, supplies, and
tools you need before you get started.
It’s easy to adjust dimensions or drill
different-sized holes to suit your hard-
ware.

10 WoodsmithPlans.com WS21422 ©2014 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.