86m Engineers Handbook V.2 Main Engines - Issue 1 2005

Engineers Handbook – Volume 2 – Main Engine- Issue 1 - 2005
Engineers
Handbook
Volume 2 – Main Engine
86 meter Vessels
1
ENGINEERS HANDBOOK REVISION RECORD
DATE CHAPTER PAGE AUTHORISATION
Handbook re-issued – Issue 1

Jan 2005 Full Manual MJL
A COPY OF THIS DOCUMENT MUST BE INSERTED IN THE FRONT OF EVERY

COMPANY MANUAL
2
MANUAL VERIFICATION FORM

I hereby certify that I have an awareness of the contents of this manual .
NAME RANK DATE SIGNATURE
3
CONTENTS
1 CHAPTER 1............................................................................................................................................5
1.1MAIN ENGINE – GENERAL VIEW ..................................................................................................5
Ruston RK270 Mk.II - 20 Cylinder ..........................................................................................................5
1.2MAIN ENGINE POWER GRAPH.......................................................................................................6
1.3MAIN ENGINE – TORQUES & SETTINGS......................................................................................7
1.4MAIN ENGINE FIRING ORDER.......................................................................................................8
2 CHAPTER 2............................................................................................................................................9
2.1‘Recommended’ Operating Conditions under certain scenarios ........................................................9
2.2ENGINE OPERATING CONDITIONS.............................................................................................11
2.3SHUT DOWN OF AN ENGINE AT SEA ........................................................................................13
2.4MAIN ENGINE – FUEL SYSTEM................................................................................................... 14
2.5MAIN ENGINE - CLUTCHING AN ENGINE IN AT SEA ............................................................16
2.6MAIN ENGINE – INHIBITS (as engine revs increase) .....................................................................17
3 CHAPTER 3.........................................................................................................................................20
3.1MAIN ENGINE - OIL MIST DETECTOR........................................................................................20
3.2MAIN ENGINE – GOVERNOR ACTUATOR .................................................................................24
3.3MAIN ENGINE – ‘VIKING’ REGULATEURS EUROPA ............................................................. 26
3.4Governor Actuator Change .................................................................................................................28
3.5MAIN ENGINE – SHUTDOWNS AND ALARMS ..........................................................................31
4 CHAPTER 4 – cam shafts...................................................................................................................32
4.1CAMSHAFT INSPECTIONS…..WHAT TO LOOK FOR............................................................... 32
4.2CAMSHAFT ELEMENT CHANGE ..................................................................................................33
4.3Main Engine – Fuel Pump Follower Guide Blank ..............................................................................39
5 CHAPTER 5 – CYLINDER HEAD & RUNNING GEAR .................................................................40
5.1Cylinder Head Valve Gear – GENERAL Information & SETTING UP ........................................... 40
5.2REMOVING PISTON & CYLINDER LINER ..................................................................................41
5.3Main Engine - Spring Drive – GENERAL PICTURES ..................................................................... 44
6 CHAPTER 6 – PROPRIETARY EQUIPMENT.................................................................................46
6.1mAIN ENGINE – RENEWING ‘CHRISTIE GREY’ MOUNTS ......................................................46
6.2AIR COOLER STUD DIAGRAM .....................................................................................................48
7 CHAPTER 7 – NOT assigned ............................................................................................................49
8 CHAPTER 8 – GEARBOX & CLUTCH............................................................................................50
8.1MAIN ENGINE – GEARBOX (RENK)............................................................................................ 50
8.2CLUTCHING IN’ MANUALLY .......................................................................................................50
8.3FAULTS .............................................................................................................................................52
8.4GEARBOX PRESSURE SWITCH INDENTIFICATION................................................................ 55
8.5Gearbox & Clutch setting pressures ....................................................................................................56
8.6MAIN ENGINE GEARBOX – internal views (during overhaul) ...................................................... 58
9 CHAPTER 9 - PIPEWORK SYSTEMS ..............................................................................................60
9.1MAIN ENGINE -LUB OIL SYSTEM............................................................................................... 60
IN..............................................................................................................................................................60
9.2MAIN ENGINE – H.T.W. & L.T.W. SYTEMS.................................................................................61
AMOT......................................................................................................................................................61
MAIN ENGINE - FUEL SYSTEM.........................................................................................................62
9.4MAIN ENGINE – STARTING AIR SYSTEM..................................................................................63
10 CHAPTER 10 – MISC........................................................................................................................64
10.1ROTA BOLTS..................................................................................................................................64
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1 CHAPTER 1
1.1 MAIN ENGINE – GENERAL VIEW
Ruston RK270 Mk.II - 20 Cyli
1. Turbochargers
2. Intercoolers
3. Exhaust Manifold
4. Exhaust Pyrometry
5. Cylinder Head Cover
6. High Pressure Fuel Pipe Covers
7. Starter Motor
8. Crankcase Pressure Relief Valve
9. Camshaft Housing
10. Anti Vibration Mounting Brackets
5
1.2 MAIN ENGINE POWER GRAPH
6
1.3 MAIN ENGINE – TORQUES & SETTINGS
18500 psi 1275 Bar

CYLINDER HEAD NUT TENSION HYD. PRESS
0.40mm (inlet & exhaust)

TAPPET CLEARANCES
Lb/ft Nm
INJECTOR CLAMP 120 163
FUEL PUMP FLANGE 85 115
INJECTOR H/P PIPE NUT 80 108
INJECTOR NOZZLE NUT 180 244
ROCKER CAP SCREWS 90 122
BRIDGE PIECE LOCKNUT 50 68
TAPPET ADJUSTING LOCKNUT 110 149
TOP COVER 35 47
CAMSHAFT GEAR 103 140
CAMSHAFT BEARING HOUSING 133 180
CAM ELEMENTS 59 80
CAMSHAFT VIBRATION DAMPER 135

VIBRATION BOLTS 135
GEISLINGER ASSEMBLY BOLTS 127
LARGE END BOLT STRETCH:
LONG 0.0322 / 0.034” 0.81 / 0.86mm

(Any long bolt stretched over 0.036” / 0.91mm – SCRAP)
SHORT 0.027 / 0.029” 0.69 / 0.74mm

(Any short bolt stretched over 0.031” / 0.79mm – SCRAP)
MAIN BEARING STUD BOLT STRETCH:
NARROW BEARING 0.038” / 0.040” 0.965 / 1.016mm

THRUST / WIDE 0.038” / 0.040” 0.965 / 1.016mm
OUTRIGGER 0.018” / 0.020” 0.457 / 0.508mm
7
1.4 MAIN ENGINE FIRING ORDER
REAR (A Bank) 8 – 5 – 2 – 4 – 1 – 3 – 6 – 9 – 7 – 10
FRONT (B Bank) 1 – 3 – 6 – 9 – 7 – 10 – 8 – 5 – 2 – 4
COMBINED FIRING ORDER (In direction of Rotation)
8F-6R-5F-9R-2F-7R-4F-10R-1F-8R-3F-5R-6F-2R-9F-4R-7F-1R-10F-3R
Direction of rotation for all engines – looking aft
270
290
240
215
4&7F
315
4&7R
2&9F
1 &10 R
180
1 & 10 F
360 2&9R 170
5&6F
3&8R
30 3&8F 5&6R
145
90
70
Did You Know 100
• The speed of the exhaust gas from the cylinder to the turbo charger is
700 m/sec
• The engines emit 125,000 m3 / engine / hour of exhaust gas
• Each main engine turbo charger produces 1 MW of power
8
2 CHAPTER 2
2.1 ‘RECOMMENDED’ OPERATING CONDITIONS UNDER CERTAIN SCENARIOS
‘Recommended’ Operating Conditions under certain scenarios
2.1.1 Turbo Charger Inlet Temps
The maximum turbo charger inlet temperature should not exceed 650oC – reduce engine revs to
clear alarm
Causes;
• Excessive exhausts leaks
• Excessive charge air leaks
• Choked air coolers
• Faulty T/C
• Engine overload
• Faulty alarm
2.1.2Running engine on 19 legs
There are two scenarios concerning running engine an engine on 19 legs – ‘with’ or ‘without’ the
inlet/exhaust rocker gear.
When disabling a unit by removing the fuel pump follower the following MUST be done;
• The Fuel pump follower & plunger must be removed (it has been found in the past that by just
removing the plunger and leaving the follower in situ can result in damage due to the ‘push fit’
insert disc coming out and causing damage to the follower guide & cam section)
• If available fit the ‘BLANK’ follower guide (distinguished by the

orange painted collar) as this has the oil hole blanked off which
reduces any loss of oil pressure to the inlet / exhaust valve guides. If
the BLANK is not available it has not been known to cause any
damage to the other followers by just having the original guide in
place, even for extended periods.
• it is sometimes advisable to remove the fuel pump rack linkage as having it connected has been
known to result in loss of fuel pressure (although have not experienced it myself MJL)
• It should be noted that it is only possible to disable ONE fuel pump – no attempt should be made
to run on 18 legs
9
Note 1: The official line from Rustons is that the engine should be run at 19/20 th of full speed.
But what is full speed? 1030 rpm is the designed max or 985 rpm which is a figure set by Condor.
Therefore running the engine at 960 rpm is a compromise by reducing the engine load whilst still
maintaining a decent vessel speed.
Note 2: Also it should be noted that Rustons recommend that this is a “get you home”
procedure only and that 19 leg running should not be sustained for long periods
Note 3: Sometimes running on 19 legs can cause the turbochargers to surge at certain RPM’s
and not much more that 900 RPM is achievable without out this happening
A) With rocker gear (fuel pump disabled – worn cam)

Run the engine at a max speed of 960 RPM to reduce the load on the engine (even taking off
just these few revs reduces the load considerably)
B) Without rocker gear (faulty, badly worn inlet/exhaust valves)

It will be difficult to get any significant speed out of the engine above the point at which the turbo
chargers cut in (800 / 850 RPM) and start to surge or ‘bark’. Increase speed until this happens, pull it
back a little & monitor.
It should be noted that the relevant indicator plug should be opened to disperse any build up of hot
gases within the cylinder.
2.1.3 Leaking Charge Air Cooler

Monitor charge air pressure against jacket / LTW pressure and try and keep the air pressure below
that of the water pressure to prevent excessive ‘gassing-up’ and possible overheating.
Approx. 0.5 bar is sufficient.
2.1.4 In Addition
Under abnormal operating conditions thought has to be given to what the component you are trying
to preserve will benefit from, having less mechanical wear ie less revs or reduced physical engine
load.
10
2.2 ENGINE OPERATING CONDITIONS
2.2.1 FIRST START OF THE DAY
Reasons for having a gradual slow start departure from Weymouth

• Excessive pressure of cold lub oil has in the past has caused damage to the main engine lub oil
pumps.
• High engine revs combined with low oil temperature provides insufficient liner/piston
lubrication due to it’s high viscosity and it’s inability to ‘wet’ the running surfaces.
• The possibility of ‘four point seizure’ of the first three units (A & B banks) – caused by rapid
acceleration with cold lub oil – this not an uncommon occurrence according to Rustons.
• Exhaust manifold joints unable to withstand rapid heating – any dampness within the joint
expands too quick blowing the joint.
• Exhaust manifolds are made from large quantities of metal which require gradual warmer up.
Slower warm up means changing less exhaust joints.
• Turbo charger have known to have had their turbine blades dislodged axially in the first few
hundred hours of operation (ie when new turbo chargers are fitted ) due to excessive thrust being
applied on speed up.
• Speeding up slowly also gives you time to access the engines operating conditions without
relying solely on the Isis alarms. It is better to predict what might happen rather than being told
it’s just occurred.
2.2.2 DEPART WEYMOUTH
Ensure that the Lub Oil pressure does not exceed 5.30 bar
Increase to 450 RPM for approx. 5 minutes

Increase to 800 RPM when oil temperature reaches 55 to 60oC ie. normally when vessel is at
Alfa Head but can be somewhat different depending on the starting oil temperature, adjust
accordingly.
Increase to 850 to 870 RPM when oil temperature reaches 70 to75oC
Increase to 930 RPM then 985 RPM full speed as the oil thermostats open – the vessel should
now normally be approaching the mid point position between Groove Point & the West Shambles
Buoy (just past the prison on Portland).
Departing Poole the long Pilotage passage is sufficient to allow the engines to warm up but again
care must be taken in accessing the engine conditions as the speed increases.
11
2.2.3 SLOWING DOWN
• On approaching each port taking into account the weather, tidal conditions and traffic at a
distance of approx. 1.5 miles it is advisable to reduces the engine revs from full speed to around
950 - 930 RPM. This reduces the thermal shocking of the engine, the exhaust system & turbo
charger (rapid de-acceleration also causes the turbo to surge).
• The vessel will still be traveling in excess of 33-35 knots even though the engines are now only
operating at approx. 75% power. This overcomes the wake problem & reduces the load on the
engines.
• Prior to stopping reduce further to 900 RPM for a few moments.
• The throttles can now be brought back to zero with approx. half a mile to go.
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2.3 SHUT DOWN OF AN ENGINE AT SEA
There was an incident in the past on one of the company’s high speed vessels where after an engine
was shutdown during rough sea conditions, water got into the engine through the exhaust system.
The result of this was a catastrophic engine failure resulting in it’s removal from the vessel for
repair. It is therefore paramount that the correct shutdown procedure is carried out immediately the
engine is stopped – particularly in rough sea conditions.
The following should be carried out when an engine is stopped at sea;
REMOVE ‘DIAMOND’ REMOVE CRANKCASE SHUT CRANKCASE

SHAPED BLANKS ON EXTRACTION FAN EXTRACTION VALVE ON
BOTH TURBO CHARGERS RETURN DRAIN AFT OF ENGINE
2 OFF (A & B bank) (in between vee of engine)
ENSURE THAT THE AIR COOLER

DRAINS ARE CLEAR
• Once the blanks are removed – monitor for any ingress of water into engine.
• If water has thought to have entered the engine – inspect the scavenge manifold (remove plate
between A10 & B10) and look up in between the cylinder banks for any water.
• Make sure the engine is properly blown over to reduce the risk of any damage.
FAILURE TO CARRY OUT THE ABOVE
CHECKS COULD LEAD TO A
CATASTROPHIC ENGINE FAILURE
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2.4 MAIN ENGINE – FUEL SYSTEM
 The engines can loose their fuel very quickly when running at full speed
 When at full speed and there is a loss of fuel pressure – before the alarm goes off (the fuel
‘snubber’ and alarm delay) you may notice that the exhaust temperatures start to have greater
than normal differential between each other – REDUCE speed immediately as this will
prevent totally fuel starvation.
 Sometimes it is best trying to keep the engine going rather than stopping it whilst sorting out
the fuel problems because it will be harder to start again if stopped.
 But if the engine is not even sustaining idle speed it is best to stop the engine otherwise it
may completely starve itself before you get the chance to do anything.
 The remote STOP of the fuel transfer pump is to be used when the engine is stopped
remotely or on an automatic shutdown – this will prevent over pressuring of the system ( it is
also a way of stopping the pump in the event of a fire whilst the engine is running on the
transfer pump)
 The loss of fuel pressure could at times be attributed to either the ‘snubber’ by the main
engine governor actuator or the ‘pressure sustaining valve’ – both these have been known to
have caused faults in the past.
2.4.1PRIMING AN ENGINE
 Open main engine fuel pump by-pass valve

 Ensure that the automatic fuel shut off valve is open (shutting off of air opens the valve)
 Open main fuel supply valve on engine ( by B-Bank turbo charger)
 Make sure the correct valves on the fuel tanks, meter by-pass, transfer pump, & Racol filters
are open
 Close transfer pump by-pass valve so that it is HALF open ( by shutting the valve in too
much will result in over-pressuring and damage of the fuel pressure gauge & transmitter) and
start the transfer pump
 Open the two ‘bleed’ valves (pressure & return) by B1 unit to bleed the system
 Crack off the fuel inlet & outlet banjo bolt connections on the fuel pumps to test for aerated
fuel.
 When after a while the bled off fuel becomes clear try starting the engine.
14
2.4.2 IF IT DOES NOT START TRY THE FOLLOWING;

 Remove the fuel HP fuel pipe covers on the engine and slacken off both ends of the HP fuel
pipe.
 Blow over the engine until fuel can be seen ‘spurting’ out of the fuel pumps discharge
connections – as each one does so nip up the connections. When at least 10 of the units have
had fuel bled through to them, attempt another engine start. It may be benifical to even try
blowing the engine over with the indicator cocks open to allow the engine top turn faster.
 Open both air bottles via the cross connection to allow longer blowing over of the engines.
 Once about ten of the units have been bled through to the fuel pumps the engine should start
 THIS ALL TAKES A LONG TIME, SO THE BEST THING IS TO BE AWARE OF
WHAT’S HAPPENING AND TRY TO STOP THE ENGINE RUNNING
COMPELETY DRY IN THE FIRST INSTANCE.
2.4.3 PLACES TO LOOK FOR PROBLEMS IN THE FUEL SYSTEM ARE;
 Check Racol filters – take top off filters – fuel should be at top of casing. (This is the most
common cause of low fuel pressure)
 The Racol filters (10 microns) are a lot finer than the Vokes filters (25 microns) – it is
therefore always worth changing the Racols first and then look at other possible faults rather
than change the Vokes filters next
 Fuel ‘snubber’
 Pressure sustaining valve
 Leaks in system – particularly around the engine driven pump
 Main engine driven fuel pump drive
The fuel ‘snubber’ has Loss of fuel pressure caused by

in the past caused the the ‘back pressure sustaining
fuel pressure to be low valve’ – after a time these valves
or zero but the engine can become badly worn due to the
still runs O.K. (situated constant hammering and pulsing
by the governor of the fuel pressure – also check
actuator) that it is the right way round
(arrow pointing for’d)
To bleed off the pump – crack To bleed off the pump – crack
banjo bolt connection here banjo bolt connection here
15
2.5 MAIN ENGINE - CLUTCHING AN ENGINE IN AT SEA
• Run engine up and check all is o.k. (check any valves shut ref. ‘Shutdown At Sea’)
• On Ride Control System panel select ‘ALARMS’
• Scroll through to ‘Trim Tab’ and select ‘ STOW INHIBIT’
• Move bucket to ‘zero’ bucket (observe green light on ‘start’ panel)
• Press ‘CLUTCH INHIBIT’ button (second green light should come on ‘start’ panel)
• Observe shaft revs increase – move bucket to ahead position and remove ‘STOW INHIBIT’
placing the Trim Tabs alarms back to ‘NORMAL’
DISPLAY UNIT use

‘MENU’ then ‘ALARMS’
followed by ‘STOW
INHIBIT’ on the Trim Tabs
STOW button used to stow

trim tabs (this produces a
controlled ascent of the flaps
without banging)
CLUTCH - BLOCK this EMERGENCY FLAPS UP only

button is used to fool the LIPS use in emergency or to test periodically,
into thinking that the flaps are BACK – UP this button is to the ‘UP’ movement is very rapid and
raised so that an engine can be prevent the Trim Tabs from stowing continuous operation of this button may
clutched in at sea when a jet is placed in ‘back – up’ cause damage to the trim tab linkage.
2.5.1 START BLOCK

• Lub Oil Priming – priming pump must be running (ie oil through flow switch) for 300 seconds (5
mins).
• Throttle lever not up (making micro switch)
2.5.2 CLUTCH BLOCK

• Engine running
• Engine revs below 400 rpm
• Hydraulic pressure must be available with at least one pressure indicator available for that hull
• ‘Lips-stick Test’ switched off
• Engineers ‘Over-ride’ in (the engineers over-ride is used for test purposes to increase the engine
revs through the Viking & LIPS from the bridge)
• Zero bucket (indicator light on panel)
• Flaps raised (indicator light on panel)
16
2.6 MAIN ENGINE – INHIBITS (AS ENGINE REVS INCREASE)
ENGINE ISIS / ALARMS & SHUTDOWNS IN

SPEED VIKING
Engine Stopped Isis  Lube oil ‘low speed’ oil pressure alarm (1.45 bar) Engine spe
 Lube oil ‘high speed’ oil pressure alarm (3.60 bar) Engine spe
 Lube oil filter diff pressure Engine spe
 Jacket water pressure alarm Engine spe
 LTW pressure alarm Engine spe
 LTW to intercooler Engine spe
 Sea water pressure Engine spe
 Sea water to / from cooler Engine spe
 Fuel pressure Engine spe
 Gearbox oil pressure ‘low speed’ Engine spe
 Gearbox oil pressure ‘high speed’ 800rpm inh
 Gearbox control oil pressure Engine spe
 Engine speed No.1 (250 rpm) Triggered
 Engine speed No.2 (350 rpm) Triggered
 800rpm inhibit Triggered
Viking  Lub oil priming (300 seconds) START BL
 Throttle lever NOT up START BL
 Lube oil ‘low speed’ shutdowns 10 psi lube
 Lube oil ‘high speed’ shutdowns 30 psi lube
20 rpm Viking  speed at which perception head signal is recognised
(signal must be recognised within 5 secs of start signal)
150 rpm Viking  Starter motor unlatched when speed above 150 rpm
17
250 rpm Isis  Lube oil ‘low speed’ oil pressure alarm (1.45 bar) Activated
 Lube oil filter diff. pressure inhibit afte
 Jacket water pressure alarm
 LTW pressure alarm
 LTW to intercooler temperature
 Sea water pressure
 Sea water to / from cooler temperature
 Fuel pressure
 Gearbox oil pressure ‘low speed’
 Gearbox control oil pressure
290 rpm  Lube oil pressure ‘low speed’ shutdown 10 psi lube
Viking  10 sec delay before alarms are active
 15 sec delay before low gearbox oil pressure is active
 10 sec delay before HTW shutdown is active
 Gearbox ‘low speed’ lube oil pressure & control oil
Clutch In Viking pressure alarms active after 15 sec delay
 Cathodic protection becomes inhibited
350 rpm Isis  Lube oil ‘high speed’ alarm (3.60 bar) is active Engine spe
Viking  Lube oil ‘high speed’ shutdown (30 psi) is active
400 rpm Viking  Speed at which ‘Clutch In’ will inhibit – prevent clutching
in when engine rpm too high
Exhaust temperature alarms active above 350 o C
800 rpm Isis  Gearbox ‘high speed’ low pressure alarm is active (2.5 bar)
800 rpm
 Charge air pressure limiter (if there is no air pressure the
Viking engine revs will not increase above this speed)
 Gearbox high speed lube oil shutdown is active
 Engine room fans start automatically
18
 Independent over-speed alarm & shutdown – trips at 1150

Full speed Isis rpm
 Gov. actuator position which will cause alarm ‘9.4’
Viking  Over-speed – trips at 1150 rpm
Viking  Stop latched in for 20 secs
STOP  If priming pump not run for 900 secs alarm and start block
initiated
 If still clutched in the clutch trips 0.5 sec after STOP
initiated
Rates of rise of Engine RPM
0 to 570 rpm Revs increase at a rate of 11.0 rpm per second

570 to full speed Revs increase at a rate of 3 rpm per second
Decrease of rpm Revs decrease at a rate of 30 rpm per second
.
19
3 CHAPTER 3
3.1 MAIN ENGINE - OIL MIST DETECTOR
FAULT NUMBER OIL MIST DENSITY

(OMD SHOW IN ‘NORMAL’ CONDITION) INDICATOR SCALE INDICATOR SCALE
‘FLASHING LIGHT’ OPACITY IN 0%
‘STEADY LIGHT’
ALARM
INDICATOR LED
TEST INDICATOR
LED
‘READY’
INDICATOR LED
ALARM LEVEL SETTING

SCREW SHOULD BE SET TO ‘7’
REMOVAL SCREW 4 OFF AT TOP 4

OFF AT BOOTOM OF UNIT THERE IS AN INTERNAL FUSE INSIDE
UNIT – UNDO 8 OFF SCREWS. FUSE
LOCATED AT BOTTOM RIGHT HAND
CORNER
3.1.1FITTING OF A NEW UNIT
• The unit comes with the alarm level set at ‘4’ – reset to ‘7’ or the engine will shut down on
oil mist high on start up. Remove PCB from back of unit and turn the small setting screw
clockwise to level ’7’
3.1.2INDICATION OF ALARMS
• When the red, right hand row has a flashing red light look at the left of the scale and observe
the number it is flashing against ( 1 to 14 ). The number corresponds to a fault which are
listed on the adjacent blue panel on the unit or in the makers manual.
• If the red row has a steady red light it is indicating the level of oil mist density present in the
engine. The engine should STOP when it reaches the alarm level – approx. at the top.
• When a ‘shutdown’ condition is reached the left hand top red light will illuminate and the
green ready light will go out.
20
3.1.3 BACK OF O.M.D
On a new unit ensure that this Undo screws to remove

setting is correctly set to ‘0’ PCB to gain access to
Alarm Level adjustment
Internal Fuse
Mounting screws
21
3.1.4 OMD – DISPLAY UNIT
LEFT SIDE: LED No. = RIGHT SIDE: OPACITY IN %

ERROR CODE ‘STEADY BURNING LIGHT’
‘FLASHING LIGHT’
No. %
ALARM 14 7
10
1
TEST 7
0.6
4
0.3
READY
1 0
AlarmLevel 4
7
1 9
LED No.
Cause of failure
14 Negative pressure in the measuring compartment too low
13 Infrared filter dirty
12 Not assigned
11 Ambient temperature < 0o C
10 Ambient temperature > 70o C
9 Electronics temperature < 0 o C
8 Electronic temperature > 75 o C
7 Reset button defective
6 Not assigned
5 Switch for adjusting sensitivity defective
4 Infrared light track defective
3 Flow control defective
2 Electronic module defective
1 Blinking for 30 seconds after the oil mist detector has been switched on (warm
up phase)
22
3.1.5 NORMAL OPERATION

• ‘READY’ LED – Green
• ‘ALARM’ LED - Out
• ‘TEST’ LED- Out
• SCALE LED’s - Red LED - lit at bottom of scale rising to approx. half
way on speed up
3.1.6 FAULT CONDITION

• ‘READY’ LED – Out
• ‘ALARM’ LED - Out
• SCALE LED’s - Red LED – flashing light corresponds to left hand
scale – read off fault number
3.1.7 ALARM (HIGH OIL MIST DENSITY) CONDITION

• ‘READY’ LED– Out
• ‘ALARM’ LED - Red
• SCALE LED’s - Red LED – steady light corresponds to right hand
Scale – alarm condition at top of scale 13 / 14
ENGINE SHOULD STOP IMMEDIATELY – IF NOT, STOP ENGINE MANUALLY

INSPECT ENGINE THROUGHLY AS PER CHECK LIST BEFORE RESTARTING THE
ENGINE
3.1.8 NOTES ON OIL MIST DETECTORS;
• Care must be taken when inspecting an engine after an OMD shutdown, because the red
‘flags’ on the unit maybe showing one particular unit is the cause of the problem it does not
necessarily mean it is correct – one instance on a previous vessel had the OMD indicating
that No. 1 unit was faulty when in fact the gear train at the opposite end of the engine was the
cause – BE CAREFUL!
• The OMD should be tested at the start of each day – before the first start. It is not necessary
to re-test an OMD if the air has been shut off during an extended ‘stop-over’
• When testing an OMD make sure that it triggers an ‘ISIS SHUTDOWN’ – the main engine
pump panel switches over to so that only the crankcase extraction fan is operating and the
Isis alarm sounds.
• A common fault is No.14 – negative air pressure in measuring compartment too low.
Normally changing the sintered bronze filters require changing, especially if there are a lot of
bad exhaust leaks on the engine.
23
3.2 MAIN ENGINE – GOVERNOR ACTUATOR
REMOVE TOP COVER AND

CHECK TIGHTNESS OF COIL &
WHEN FITTING A NEW GOV. OIL SUPPLY TO DIODE
ACTUATOR – PUMP LEVER A FEW
TIMES TO BUILD UP OIL PRESSURE
ACTUATOR COIL
TERMINALS SHOULD
MEASURE 12.5Ω, UNIT
U/S IF READS +25Ω
COIL TERMINALS A & C
(see above)
VIKING SPEED
CONTROL INPUT
MANUAL STOP GOV. INDEX

BUTTON ‘2’ – IDLE
‘8’ – MAX SPEED
‘STOP’ SIGNAL
FROM VIKING
COMPENSATION OIL LEVEL – DO NOT

SCREW-APPROX. OVER FILL!
1/8TH TURN OPEN
(REMOVE PLUG
FIRST)
STARTING AIR BOOSTER –

PERCEPTION HEADS PROVIDES GOV. OIL
(SPEED PICK-UPS) ‘BALL HEAD’ PRESSURE ON START UP
GOOD = 340 Ω ± 10% MANUAL SPEED (the start air pushes a piston up
(ie 310 TO 390 Ω ) CONTROL which supplies oil pressure to the
governor to allow it to control the
GAP = 1.5mm engine whilst it is speeding up
3.2.1MANUAL OPERATION
• Sometimes the engine will run erratic due to pick-up feedback problems so it is best to
operate on the ‘ball head’ until cured.
• The engine will run just below idle (approx 290 r.p.m.) if there is a Viking failure
• Remove Viking input to gov. actuator (top plug)
• Release knurled knob and slowly move ‘ball head’ lever anti-clockwise – keep an eye on the
engine speed
• Once at required speed lock the knurled knob.
• Care must be taken when entering port as the bridge has no speed control over the engine
• All the main engine shut downs will still operate including the remote stops
24
3.2.1 View of top of actuator – with top removed
ADJUSTING SCREW
FOR SETTING ISIS
LOAD INDICATOR
ENSURE THAT COIL IS SECURE – IF

LOOSE THE ENGINE RUNS ERRATIC
AND THE SPEED HUNTS
3.2.2 KNOWN FAULTS – Erratic running & uncontrollable engine speed
 Breakdown of pick-up resistance – renew.

 Too much oil around the flywheel effecting the pick-up (give it a wipe with a cloth).
 Pick-up bracket vibrating – loose or part fractured.
 After fitting a new governor actuator – ‘pump’ up the fuel rack arm to ‘prime’ the unit.
 Loose plugs, leads and connections – check all (if have had bad exhaust leaks in the past
check for breakdown of cable insulation).
 Actuator coil loose – see above.
 Viking cabinet door left open can cause ‘noise’ interference.
 Fluorescent lights too close or flickering too Viking.
 Compensation screw mis-adjusted (1/8th turn open) – see picture.
 Stiff or sticking fuel pump linkages and racks.
 Governor actuator failure (engine runs at approx. 290 rpm).
 Too much oil (& wrong type) in actuator.
 Stop buttons ‘stuck in’ on bridge or stop circuit faulty.
 Engine stopping for an unknown reason – check CO 2 system ‘machinery shutdown’ circuit –
faulty relays, connections etc.
 The drive bevel gear has also been known to have fallen off causing ‘over-speed shutdown’
25
3.3 MAIN ENGINE – ‘VIKING’ REGULATEURS EUROPA
WHEN DISPLAY SHOWING

‘local’ OR ‘Remote’ PRESS
RIGHT BUTTON TO SHOW
ENGINE START BLOCKS
In Local Mode
POWER ON
SET UP
‘PROCESSOR HEALTHY’ ENTER

SHOULD FLASH
CONTINUOUSLY.
PROCESSOR
HEALTHY DISPLAY ALARMS
SET
SPEED LOAD RESET ACCEPT
‘SET SPEED’ WILL SHOW

THE SPEED SET BY THE
BRIDGE OR LOCALLY ON
THE VIKING REMOTE LOCAL
‘LOAD’ WILL SHOW THE
AMOUNT OF FUEL RACK
START STOP
THE ENGINE IS RUNNING
WITH.
Regulateurs Europa
2200 DIGITAL CONTROL UNIT
‘START’ WILL ‘STOP’ WILL WORK IN

ONLY WORK WHEN ANY MODE TO STOP THE
IN ‘local’ CONTROL ENGINE
‘PICK-UP CHANGE’ WILL

FLASH ON THE DISPLAY IF
THE VIKING FAILS TO
DETECT A SIGNAL. IT WILL
THEREFORE CHANGE-OVER VIKING EARTH LIGHTS –
TO THE OTHER PICK-UP. CHECK FOR EARTHS ON
WIRING – WATCH OUT FOR
TO TEST THAT THEY LOOSE WIRES HANGING IN
CHANGE OVER OR TO THE BILGE.
CHECK THAT A PICK-UP IS CENTER PLUG IS FOR A
WORKING CORRECTLY VOLTS METER CONNECTION
SWAP OVER THEM OVER
AND SEE IF THE ENGINE
STILL RUNS SMOOTHLY.
‘LOCAL’ & ‘REMOTE’ SWITCH
JACKET WATER SHUTDOWN

TEST BUTTON – TESTS CIRCUIT
ONLY
26
3.3.1 MAIN ENGINE – VIKING SETTINGS
NOTE – the Viking should NOT normally require any adjustment but
care must be used if doing so. It is possible to start the engine and
disable shutdowns by operating components within the menu’s –
so be careful! ANY ALTERATIONS TO DATA MUST BE
WRITTEN DOWN AND THE SHIP MANAGER INFORMED.
To check the parameters and settings of the Viking unit switch over the ‘SET-UP’ switch
inside the right hand side of the Viking panel.
MAIN MENU will be displayed used the to scroll through the menu’s when in the
section required press ‘ENTER’
MAIN MENU
ENGINE STATUS Engine speed & Load
SPEED SETTING Ramp up speeds, barred ranges, max rpm, change over
speed, min rpm, max/min mA setting, idle speed.
SPEED Droop, proportional gain, derivative gain etc.
CONTROL
FUEL LIMIT Fuel, boost & torque limits
SYSTEMS SETUP L.O. priming alarm, start times, speed switches, lub oil
shutdown, over-speed, time delays etc.
BASE SET UP Rated full speed, No. of fly wheel teeth, Act. output
position
TEMPERATURE Displays jacket water & charge air temps, min & max
settings
I/O CALIB/TEST Analog, input & output status etc.
MEMORY Memory test – engine must be non-operational
GLOBAL RESET Don’t do it! All data returns to factory presets
MAIN MENU
The above table shows a quick reference to the type of inputs & outputs that are available in
the Viking unit, for more info look at the instruction manual
3.3.2TO CHANGE DATA
To change a piece of data in a particular section use the ‘up’ arrow and a small cursor will
appear on the left hand side of the display, move it under the required figure you want
changed by pressing the ‘left’ or ‘right’ keys and use the ‘up’ or ‘down’ keys to adjust the
setting. Once finished move the cursor to the far left of the display and press the ‘down’
key it will then disappear. Use the ‘right’ key to scroll through the rest of that particular
section of the menu.
At the end of each section as you scroll through it will indicate LOAD NEW DATA,
RETAIN OLD DATA or LOAD RESET DATA
So if changing data use the LOAD NEW DATA or if unsure about what you have done use
RETAIN OLD DATA.
27
3.4 GOVERNOR ACTUATOR CHANGE
Object:
To ensure that the Output arm from the Actuator is giving the correct rack movement and
the actuator is correctly calibrated to Viking.
Preamble:
All Actuators are calibrated at the factory and require sychronising with Viking to ensure
that the Viking Input and Outputs operate the actuator correctly.
3.4.1 Actuator Change
Removal Actuator
1. Measure and record the fuel rack collar to fuel pump at the following actuator settings.
2. Actuator ZERO
3. Actuator TWO
4. Actuator EIGHT
5. Actuator OVERLOAD, this is obtained by pushing the Actuator output arm against the
spring link pressure.
6. These setting are required to ensure the actuator is operating over the same range once it
has been changed.
7. Remove the bolt holding the spring link to the actuator output arm and move spring link
out of the way.
8. Disconnect the Stop cable, the lower of the two electrical connections on the front of
the actuator.
9. Disconnect the Input Output cable, the upper of the two electrical connections on the
front of the actuator
10.Remove the two oil pipes from the boost cylinder to the actuator, on the after end of the
engine.
11.Remove the four nuts from the base.
12.It is possible to screw two M8 bolts into the actuator casing in way of the output arm
and ball head assembly, this will aid lifting of the actuator.
13.Lift the actuator and place on a suitable stand.
28
3.4.2 Removal/ Replacement of the Actuator output arm.

1. It is essential that the arm is replaced on the new actuator as near to its original position
as possible.
2. Before removing the arm from the original arm move it to position ZERO. (It is
possible to get a relative position from a tapped hole in the face of the actuator)
3. Loosly place the arm on the new actuator and move the actuator to the ZERO position.
4. Reposition the arm to your datum point (from item 2 above).
5. If it is not possible to position exactly it is best to move the arm to the nearest spline
clockwise.
6. Re-tighten the arm in the new position.
3.4.3 Replacement of the Actuator.

1. Change over the elbows and pipes required for the boost cylinder.
2. Remount the actuator on the engine, this is the reverse procedure to removal.
3. Attach the spring link on to the actuator arm.
4. Check the fuel pump rack measurements as in the above section.
5. Refer to the Rustons Maintenance and Repair manual for details on adjusting the Spring
link to adjust the rack settings as required.
6. Fill the unit with oil via the filling plug. On the rectangular plate at the front of the
unit, the bottom center bolt can be removed to allow the oil to drain, as it is on the
normal operating level for the unit. This can also be removed when the engine is
running to drain any excess oil from the unit
7. Reconnect the two electrical connections.
8. Remove air from the system by moving the output arm full range a few of times.
9. On the front of the Actuator near the center of the base is the COMPENSATING
adjustment. This must be checked and adjusted in until resistance is felt and then
backed of 1/8 turn. This will prevent the actuator reacting too quickly to load changes.
29
3.4.4 Calibration of Actuator to Viking

1. Switch off the Viking.
2. Remove wire 58, actuator connection.
3. Connect a digital volt meter DVM (must be able to read to 3 decimal places) between
the removed wire 58 and its terminal. You need to measure the output current.
4. Power up the Viking.
5. Switch to SETUP mode
6. From the MAIN MENU screen press ENTER
7. Select I/O CALB TEST screen press ENTER
8. Select ACTUATOR TEST screen press ENTER
9. Enter the pass code 123.4
10.Select OP TEST and drive the value from –0.1 to 1.1, this is used to heat up the test coil
with in the actuator. WAIT 10 MINUTES.
11.Leave the ‘OP TEST’.
12.Scroll through to ‘.75A CALIB’, select this option. You should have a reading of
750mA on the DVM. If this reading is not correct drive the output up or down as
required to achieve 750mA.
13.Leave ‘.75A CALIB’.
14.Scroll through to .25A CALIB, select this option. You should have a reading of 250mA
on the DVM. As before if this is incorrect drive the output up or down as required to
achieve 250mA.
15.Leave ‘.25A CALIB’.
16.Scroll through to ‘OP TEST’, select this option. Driving the value up should give the
values indicated below, on the DVM. These values should be with in 2mA ideally,
however there is nothing we can do to alter them.
17.Once this test has been completed return the value to –0.1. Or the actuator will try to
drive its output to the figure you left it at, ie 0.9 is over-speed be warned.
18.Having returned to –0.1 scroll to ‘EXIT’ and press ENTER to leave the ‘I/O CALB
TEST’ menu this will store any changes you have made.
19.DO NOT ADJUST THE SCREW UNDER THE FILLING PLUG. THIS IS
DIRECTLY RELATED TO THE ACTUATOR OUTPUT AND THEREFORE
ADJUSTMENTS JUST MADE TO ALIGN THE ACTUATOR TO THE VIKING.
O/P TEST O/P CURRENT
-0.1 <15
0 83
0.1 166
0.2 250
0.3 333
0.4 416
0.5 500
0.6 583
0.7 666
0.8 750
0.9 833
1.0 916
1.1 >950
30
3.5 MAIN ENGINE – SHUTDOWNS AND ALARMS
‘HIGH SPEED’ LUB E

OIL SHUTDOWN
HIGH’LUBE OIL SHUTDOWN TEST
BUTTON - MUST BE TESTED AT
ABOVE 360-380 RPM ‘LOW SPEED’ LUBE ISIS FUEL
OIL SHUTDOWN PRESS SENSOR
ISIS LUB OIL

PRESSURE SENSOR
‘LOW’LUBE OIL SHUTDOWN
TEST BUTTON - CAN BE
TESTED AT IDLE SPEED
LOCAL PANEL
PRESSURE GAUGE
SHUT OFF VALVES
VIKING CHARGE AIR PRESS. SENSOR ISIS BOOST PRESSURE SENSOR ISIS JACKET WATER SENSOR
- VIKING MUST SENSE THAT THERE IS (MAY FIND THAT THIS UNIT
SUFFICIENT BOOST PRESSURE BEFORE HAS HAD IT’S PLUG SWOPPED
ALLOWING ENGINE RPM TO INCREASE OVER WITH THE VIKING
ABOVE APPROX. 800 RPM BOOST PRESSURE SENSOR)
• Isis alarms just monitor various temperatures & pressures on the engine.
• Viking alarms provide the engine protection & shutdown devices.
 ‘Low speed’ low lube oil pressure shutdown – 10 psi
 ‘High speed’ low lube oil pressure shutdown – 30 psi
 Overspeed (speed set by Viking & independent unit)
 High Jacket temp
 Oil mist high
 Main bearing temp (these Isis readings trip the engine at 90 oC)
 Low gearbox pressure
31
4 CHAPTER 4 – CAM SHAFTS

4.1 CAMSHAFT INSPECTIONS…..WHAT TO LOOK FOR
With the lube oil priming pump running check Check inlet /
for flow of oil, loose pipe connections, loose for wear. Exc
banjo bolts as well as any chaffed or damaged due to stickin
pipework etc.
Turn the engine using the

turning gear and ensure all
the follower go up & down
without sticking and the
rollers turn freely
The fuel cam lobe is where the most commonly found defects are – small Check the fuel pump follower guide f
defects in the case hardening can be lived with and may not get any bigger but possible to see cracks looking undern
if anything over approx. 10mm dia is found consideration must be given to uncertain to whether it’s a crack or no
changing the cam section. Will it last another 500 hrs until the next and light tap the it with a hard object
inspection? present the oil will show it up.
Scuff marks are quite common and should not cause concern. Cracked guide should be changed – i
32
4.2 CAMSHAFT ELEMENT CHANGE
All fuel pumps are factory calibrated to start injections at 5mm lift of the plunger.
Our aim is to ensure that we have 5mm of cam lift at the correct point of injection for a specific
engine – 17o BTDC on Condor Express / Vitesse
4.2.1 CHECK THAT THE FLYWHEEL INDICATOR IS ACCURATE
1. Remove the injector from the unit you are changing the Cam Element
2. Insert the TDC indicating bar into the injector pocket
3. Mark the flywheel 10 o BTDC & 10 o ATDC
4. Move the flywheel to 10 o BTDC and set the dial gauge on the TDC indicator bar to zero
5. Turn the engine through TDC to 10 o ATDC checking the dial gauge returns to zero. (It’s
worth checking that the dial gauge stops and reverses direction as you go through TDC)
6. Adjust the flywheel indicator as required to give flywheel indicated TDC as actual TDC
4.2.3 CAM ELEMENT REPLACEMENT CAM THRUST PLATE HOUSING

REMOVED - USE 2 OFF JACKING
SCREWS TO MOVE CAMSHAFT
1 Remove the rocker gear, fuel pump cam followers and
. cam door from the effected unit
2 Remove the cam thrust plate from the relevant bank

. and insert the 2 off jacking bolts (M10 x 70mm) into
the thrust plate but leave slack
In the case of B-bank remove the governor actuator &

pedestal and also the strong back if required
3 Remove all the bolts from the cam element with the
. exception of 2 off in each flange, this will ensure the
whole camshaft will move when the crank is turned. It
is advised to ensure that these remaining bolts are
easily accessible when the engine is turned to the
injection position.
FOUR REMAINING BOLTS TO
BE IN THIS POSITION
WHEN………..
……..FUEL LOBE IS
POINTING UPWARDS AT
APPROX. 45O
33
4 With the effected unit at 17 o BTDC, mark with a fine

. paint marker (or a light scribe mark – DO NOT use a
center pop mark) the relative position of the next cam
element down (going forward) to the bearing block.
PAINT
MARK
NOTE; picture shows bolts removed – this is not

necessary, just an example of marking!
REMOVE LARGE ALLEN

BOLTS AND MOVE
BEARING HOUSING AFT
5 The 4 off remaining bolts must be left slack enough for
. the camshaft to be moved axially to remove the
element from it’s spigots.
6 Slacken off the bearing housing AFT of the cam

. element to be changed by removing the two large Allen
bolts. Move it aft by approx. 25mm (this provides
enough room for the cam elements removal)
7 Move the drive end of the camshaft aft from the rest of
. the camshaft using jacking screws in the camshaft
thrust plate (a suitable lever may also be used by
placing it between the drive gear & entablature)
JACK APART CAM SECTION UNTIL CLEAR OF SPIGOTS

EACH END – BY ONLY UNDOING BOLTS BY APPROX.
10mm THE CAM WILL SPLIT EQUALLY AT BOTH ENDS
8 Once the spigots have been separated, remove the

. remaining 4 off bolts and withdraw the cam element
TAKE CARE TO ENSURE THAT THE NEITHER

THE CRANKSHAFT OR CAMSHAFTS HAVE
MOVED
CAM ELEMENT READY FOR REMOVAL – TRY
WEARING A PAIR OF HEAVY DUTY
WELDING GLOVES……IT’S HEAVY & HOT !
34
4.2.4 RE-FITTING OF A NEW CAM ELEMENT
1. Each new cam element is marked with a radial

groove on the exhaust valve side, this should
therefore be fitted to the right hand side no matter
which bank cam is being fitted.
Each flange also has a small scallop indicating the

position of the original dowel pin
RADIAL GROOVE - TO BE
FITTED TO RIGHT HAND SIDE
2. The old dowel pin if fitted should be removed. Use

mole grips or pliers – to loosen it use a modified
chisel with a ‘V’ cut out of the blade. Hitting the
dowel towards the middle of the cam will cause the
hole to elongate, thus loosening it and aid it’s
removal. This may deform the internal circumference
of the spigot hole in which case it must be dressed up
with a file before fitting the new cam element.
It’s removal allows the new cam element to be
rotated slightly so that the timing can be accurately
set. DOWEL PIN
Ensure that new cam element is degreased and all

mating surfaces are clean & flat. ALIGN SCALLOPS WITH
POSITION OF OLD DOWEL
3. Insert the new cam element so that the scallop aligns

with the dowel hole in the journal
4. Replace two bolts (using new bolts) in the driven

flange and push the camshaft back to ensure both
spigots are engaged. It is advised to ensure that these
bolts are easily accessible when the engine is turned
to the injection position.
Reposition bearing block fitting cap screws & re-

torque to 180 Nm.
5. Replace two bolts in the free flange. These bolts can TWO BOLTS IN FUEL LOBE IN
be nipped – not fully tight EACH FLANGE ALMOST INJECTION
POSITION
6. Replace the fuel pump tappets and guides, without

the spring and o-ring fitted to the fuel pump plunger
DTI BASE FITTED TO

FUEL PUMP STUDS
35
7. With the fuel cam on the base circle set the dial
gauge to ZERO on top of the fuel pump plunger
8. Turn the crankshaft in the direction of rotation until

17o BTDC on the flywheel, watch the dial gauge and
note how much lift occurs
9. Slacken all four bolts on the cam section – the

element should now be free to move FUEL PUMP
TAPPET PLUNGER
10. Rotate the element as required to give 5mm (+/-

0.25mm) on the dial gauge. Sometimes it is not SLACKEN OFF THE BOLTS TO MOVED
CAM TO CORRECT TIMED POSITION
possible to obtain this due to there being insufficient
play in the bolt holes.
If timing is ADVANCED (ie reaches 5mm lift before

17o) move cam element back down away from the
engine. If RETARDED (ie does not reach 5mm lift at
17o) move cam towards the engine.
Tighten the two driven flange bolts
11. Replace the two free flange bolts and nips the bolts.
It is best to reverse the engine clockwise until the

timing mark is at the 3 o’clock position to ensure the
backlash has been taken out and recheck the lift again
using the DTI gauge.
36
ENSURE THAT GAUGE IS

FLAT AGAINST
FOLLOWER SHIMS
12. Check the fuel pump shim pack using the stepped
gauge (the shorter one of the legs). This should be
just touching (use a 0.05mm feeler gauge) the
plunger at 5mm lift. Adjust the shim pack as
required.
NOTE; If there is no more adjustment in rotating

the cam due to the bolt holes interfering with the
bolts further adjustment can be made by
adding/removing the shims.
USE LONGER ‘LEG’

TO CHECK BUMP
13. Reverse the engine until the cam is on the flat – CLEARANCE.
TIMING - CHECK
check the BUMP clearance using the timing gauge. SHIM PACK HEIGHT
There should be clearance between the tappet USING GAUGE AT 17 O
BTDC
plunger and the gauge. If there is no clearance and
the plunger is pushing the gauge off the shim pack
by more than 0.23mm there is a risk of damage as a
result of the pump over-running it’s stroke
14. To check that the rest of the camshaft has not

moved set the new cam element to 17 o BTDC again
on the flywheel pointer and check your marks on
the next lower cam element still line up with those
on the bearing block.
15. Replace all the element bolts and torque to 80 Nm.

Cam bearing bolts torque – 180 Nm
Replace fuel pump tappet spring and o-ring,
reassemble all valve gear and fuel pump as per
Ruston instructions
Use new nuts on the fuel pump studs.
37
4.2.5 SPECIALIST TOOLS REQUIRED

DTI dial gauge and magnetic base
Dial gauge platform – secure to fuel pump studs
Cam element cap bolt wrench
TIMING / BUMP gauge
Fuel pump follower guide securing nuts
Cam thrust plate jacking screws – for jacking across

camshaft
M10 x 70mm
38
4.3 MAIN ENGINE – FUEL PUMP FOLLOWER GUIDE BLANK
WARNING
This guide has a blanked off oil hole and is only to be used
when running on 19 cylinders with the follower removed. This
will prevent any loss of oil pressure to the inlet & exhaust valve
followers & running gear.
The top part has been painted orange for easy identification
39
5 CHAPTER 5 – CYLINDER HEAD & RUNNING GEAR

5.1 CYLINDER HEAD VALVE GEAR – GENERAL INFORMATION & SETTING UP
When tightening up the rocker

arm pillar supports hold them
together as you nip the cap
screw – this keeps them tight
up against the rocker arm &
prevents any sideways
movement that has been
known to cause excessive
stress on the cap screws.
A light tap with a hammer on
the side when the bolts are
nipped ensures any gaps are
closed up.
Measure the exhaust valve heights from

the top of the valve spring retaining plate
to the machined part of the cylinder head
When setting tappets A
The valve height on a new head is bridge piece is adjusted
approx. 97mm. When the height exceeds
99mm the cylinder head should be Slacken off the adjustin
changed. down the rocker arm &
down the adjusting scre
When checking tappets and they are top of the upper valve s
found to be tight ALWAYS check the
valve height, as excessive wear maybe
the cause.
40
5.2 REMOVING PISTON & CYLINDER LINER

5.2.1 LINER LIFTING GEAR – TOOLS REQUIRED
2 3 4 5
Tools Required:
Normal gear for lifting cylinder head plus.

1. Piston lifting beam
2. Strongback for jacking out liner
3. Top & Bottom Liner Lifting Plates, the meatier plate goes at the bottom, plus (not shown) long
stud bar with nuts, distance tube & washers
4. Strongback for jacking liner back into entablature.
5. Long and short stretch gauges for bottom end bolts.
6. Rocol ASP anti scuff paste
7. Long and short retaining clamps for holding shell in con rod half of bottom end.
8. Heavy duty ratchet (Sid Chrome etc.), ¾” extension x approx. 400mm. Long, heavy duty ¾”
U/J, and 32mm. Impact Socket. (Do not use standard type socket as this will damage the nut
hexagon).
9. Supporting rod for removing & refitting the bottom end half cap.
Additional items required and not shown:
Silicon grease or soft soap or vaseline, for liner O rings.

Guide for inserting piston into liner
Steel tube, 45/50mm. Bore x approx. 1m.83cms long (6 foot), for releasing the bottom end bolts.
Steel Tube 45/50 mm. Bore x 1m. long, for stretching the bottom end bolts.
Liner “glaze buster”, which we havn’t got , or sheets of medium emery cloth & diesel..
41
5.2.2 PROCEDURE FOR REMOVAL
1. With cylinder head removed remove the cutting ring and clean away any carbon deposit on liner
wall at top of piston ring travel.
2. Turn engine to access upper bottom end bolts with socket and extension, and slack off the nuts.
( It took 2 men with 6ft. tube on ratchet to crack off the nuts.)
3. Turn engine to access lower two nuts and crack off .
4. Turn engine to bring piston to top centre. Attach piston lifting beam and hook up to chain block.
5. Remove one of upper bottom end bolts and insert bearing half cap support rod into the bolt hole.
6. Remove other three bottom end bolts and slide bearing half cap out of crankcase, the bearing
shell should come out with it.
7. Take the half cap support rod out and turn the crankpin away from the connecting rod then
protect the crankpin surface and oil hole.
8. Wrap rags around bottom of con rod, to revent scoring of liner wall, and lift piston and con rod
out of liner. A steadying chain block from opposite side of engine is required to maintain the
lifting line on the liner axis.
9. Remove the bottom end shells from respective halves.
10.Fit liner lifting gear, the heavier plate at the bottom.
11.Using the jacking out beam, item 2, supported on steel blocks, jack out the liner till free then lift
out of entablature.
5.2.3 PROCEDURE FOR REFITTING

1. Clean all sealing surfaces, and de-glaze liner bore. Fit new liner O rings lubricated with
silicon grease, soft soap, or vaseline.
2. Refit liner in entablature, using jacking beam item 4, to press the liner home.
3. Ensure all surfaces of bottom end halves and bolt holes are clean and undamaged and fit
respective bearing shells in position. Use the bearing retaining clamps, one long, one short, to
hold the con rod half shell in position in the con.rod half of the bottom end. Do not lubricate
the backs of the shells, but lubricate the shell bearing surfaces, and also the piston skirt and
rings.
4. Lower the piston & con.rod into the liner, using the “cauldron” guide, until in approx top
dead centre position. Use two chain blocks as before and remember to wrap the bottom end to
protect the liner walls.
5. Remove protection from crankpin.
6. Turn the engine until the crankpin mates into the con rod half bearing shell.
7. If refitting the bottom end bolts clean and inspect to ensure all mating/landing faces are good
and ensure the nuts and bolts appearance is good. Apply a light coat of Rocol ASP anti-scuff
paste to the bolt threads.
8. Insert the bearing cap support rod into one of the con rod half bolt holes and slide the bearing
cap half complete with bearing shell into position. Insert one upper and one lower bolt and
nip the nuts up finger tight.
42
9. Remove cap support rod and fit the other two bolts. Note that the bolts should be refitted in
their original bolt holes, as per their numbers, 1 to 4. If new bolts are being fitted these should
be number stamped on their heads and fitted in the same order.
10.Remove piston lifting beam from piston
11.Nip all four nuts with a socket and then slacken off. Now nip the nuts up finger tight
12.Fit the stretch gauge to no.1 bolt, ensuring that measuring points of gauge are clean, and also
the depressions in the bolts into which the stretch gauge fits. Align the scale 0 mark with the
needle and lock the bezel.
13.Remove the gauge and stretch the bolt to approx 50% of the total stretch. This is very much a
matter of “feel”, so you will just have to nip a bit at a time and keep checking the stretch until
you get there. As a rough guide, it requires two men giving a good heave on a 3 foot long
tube on the ratchet handle to achieve full stretch of the bolts. Note the dial reading when you
have reached approx 50% stretch.
14.Repeat on the other three bolts (in numerical order) till all are at approx 50% stretch, noting
the stretch each time.
15.Refit the gauge to no.1 bolt and align the scale 0 with the needle, lock the bezel.
16.Stretch the bolt further until the total of this stretch plus the first stretch falls within the
permissible stretch range.
17.Repeat on bolts 2,3 & 4.
1 2 4 3
OR
3 4 2 1
18. Check the con rod for side float.

19. On completion of re-assembly of the remainder of the unit, start the lub.oil priming pump and
check oil supply to bottom end and piston.
20. Give the engine a couple of turns.
43
5.3 MAIN ENGINE - SPRING DRIVE – GENERAL PICTURES
End view of Spring Drive

Assembly complete with
wrapper plate
Close-up of spring pack and

retaining plates. These can be
replaced one at a time by
levering out with a
screwdriver.
Main drive gear removed from

spring drive unit
44
General view of spring

drive without the main
drive gear
General view of spring drive

with the main drive gear
45
6 CHAPTER 6 – PROPRIETARY EQUIPMENT

6.1 MAIN ENGINE – RENEWING ‘CHRISTIE GREY’ MOUNTS
1. Before dismantling the mount, measure the height
from the underside of the bracket to the aluminium
frame. The correct distance is stamped on the bracket
of each engine mount
Ideally an inside calliper should
be used from inside the small
welded pipe to the underside of
the bracket.
2. Undo the four large & four small holding down bolts.
And then support the weight of the engine with a jack
(will probably also require a spacer)
Note the use of a spacer –
just jack the mount until the
weight is supported
3. Undo & remove the top four securing bolts before

using the jacking bolts (M20 x 80mm) to compress
the mount spring
Mount securing bolts
Jacking bolts
4. Once the jacking bolts have compressed the mount

enough remove the 20mm thick aluminium spacer and
shims.
5. Undo the jacking bolts to release the tension in the

mount spring, remove the mount.
Caution – it’s very heavy!
Release the jacking screws
6. Fit the new mount (told you it was heavy!) making

sure to align all the bolts before doing them up tight.
Leave the top securing bolts loose whilst the jacking
screws are being used to compress the mount when
fitting the spacer & shims.
46
7. Making sure that the spacer & shims are clean refit
them into place. Release the jacking screws and do up
the top securing bolts.
Top securing bolts still
loose whilst refitting
the spacer & shims
8. Make sure all the bolts are tight. Measure again the
height of the mount. The height can be approx.
0.6mm higher than the original but will settle to the
correct height after a few days – recheck again. If it
requires adjustment remove or add shims to the
correct height taking into account that it will
eventually settle down.
9. The ‘Rebound Height’ should now be checked –
make sure the adjustment screw is loose before you
start.
Rebound Height
adjustment screw
& locknut
10 Using the special tool (as shown) and a spanner adjust

. the Rebound Height and tighten the lock nut on
completion.
Feeler gauge
11 The Rebound Heights are different on each side of the

. engine due to its rotational forces. Measure the
distance using feeler gauges between the top rubber
washer & the underside of the aperture.
PORT SIDE - 8.9mm Rebound height

Rebound washer
distance
STB’D SIDE - 4.1mm
NOTE – UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCE SHOULD YOU ATTEMPT TO DISMATLE

THE MOUNT FOR FURTHER INSPECTION AS SPECIAL TOOLS ARE
REQUIRED TO UNDO THE HEAVY SPRING
BASE MOUNT TO FRAME BOLTS – 200Nm
47
6.2 AIR COOLER STUD DIAGRAM

‘Cold Side’
B B A B
A A A A A A A B A
B B B A A A
B B
B B B
B B B
B B B
B B B
B B A A A A A A A A B B B B A A A
E E C C C C H H H H G G D D C C H H H H H H
G G G
G
A - Bank
G
G
G
G
B - Bank
G G G
G G H F F F H H H H G G G G H F F F H H H H
‘Hot Side’
PART No. DESCRIPTION QTY POSITION PART No. DESCRIPTION QTY

11406A28 Set Bolt – M12 x 30mm 4 1140712A40 M12 x 60mm 14
1140064A25 Set Bolt M16 x 25mm 8 1140712A42 M12 x 65mm 3
1140712A32 M12 x 40mm 14 G 1140712A44 M12 x 70mm 16
1140712A34 M12 x 45mm 2 E 1140712A198 M12 x 80mm 4
1140712A36 M12 x 50mm 18 B&D
48
7 CHAPTER 7 – NOT ASSIGNED
49
8 CHAPTER 8 – GEARBOX & CLUTCH

8.1 MAIN ENGINE – GEARBOX (RENK)
8.1.1 MANUAL CLUTCH-IN

• Engine running
• Press in valve 21
• After 3 secs press in valve 20
• Release valve 21 after a further 10 secs
• Release valve 20 after another 5 secs
This is the correct operation for a ‘soft’ clutch in
8.1.2 MANUAL CLUTCH-OUT

• Press valve 20
___________________________________________________________________________
8.2 CLUTCHING IN’ MANUALLY

8.2.1
VALVE No. 21 – Press in first for 3

secs before valve 20 is pressed and hold
in for a further 10 seconds
VALVE No.20 (M2)

De-clutch valve – watch
LED indicator change
8.2.2
VALVE No. 20 (M1)
After first pressing valve 21
press in this valve for
approx 10 secs
AFT FOR’D
50
8.2.3
CLUTCH-IN & CLUTCH-OUT

indicators – a small LED lights up
to indicate if the clutch is in or out
Top Pressure Adjusting Screw

Sets 28 – 30 bar pressure
8.2.4
Lower adjusting screw set
‘soft’ clutch pressure
ie 7 bar
It has been known for the piston to stick

in the housing (hence the hammer
marks !!!) – removing the piston with
the shaft turning and hence the internal
lubrication pump running may result in
oil being pumped out of the housing
Small ‘in-line’ pencil filter
51
8.3 FAULTS
8.3.1 CASING FAULTS
INTERNAL INSPECTION
look for any cracking on this lip
(it is only approx 5mm thick and
supports the thrust bearing) it is a
known weak point & failures have
been known
8.3.2 PRESSURE SWITCH FAULTS
VALVE No. 95 – ISIS

PRESSURE SENSOR –
SWOP SENSOR PLUG WITH
VALVE No. 93
VALVE No. 93 –FROM

VIKING - ‘SHUT DOWN’
FOR’D
VIEW OF TOP OF GEARBOX
8.3.3 START BLOCK FAULTS
• If the engine is stopped without first de-clutching the engine it can sometimes develop a
‘Start Block’ as it thinks that the clutch is still engaged this can prevent the engine from
being started.
Go into Viking and switch over to ‘SET-UP’
• Main Menu will appear on the display
• Scroll through using the > key until ‘I / O CALIB / TEST’ appears.
• Press enter ‘I / O TEST MENU / CAUTION’ flashes
• Scroll through until ‘INPUT STATUS’ appears
• ‘IP’ followed by 12 off ‘1’ or ‘0’ will appear – each digit means a different thing as
follows
52
IP No. ENERGISE DE-ENERGISE

IP(0) EXT. OSPEED
IP(1) RETURN TO IDLE BY ISIS
IP(2) CLUTCH DISENGAGED CLUTCH ENGAGED
IP(3) PRIME FLOW OK
IP(4) STOP
IP(5) EMERG. STOP
IP(6) LOW GEARBOX OIL PRESSURE
IP(7) SHUTDOWN BY ISIS
IP(8) THROTTLE OK
IP(9) START
IP(10) REMOTE LOCAL
IP(11) SET – UP NORMAL
• Select the third digit from the left and change from a ‘1’ to a’0’ – this is done by pressing
the
so that the small cursor appears, press until the cursor is under the correct digit,
press or until the digit changes from a ‘1’ to a ‘0’, press until the cursor is
back where it started from then press it will now disappear.
• Scroll through end return to main menu
CAUTION – WHEN USING THE VIKING IN THIS WAY EXTREME

CAUTION MUST BE USED AS IT IS POSSIBLE TO START THE
ENGINE JUST BY CHANGING A’0’ TO A ‘1’
8.3.4 FAULT FINDING
• Engine stops a few seconds after clutching in, but the oil pressures (7 bar and 28 bar)
seem normal – it maybe a fault of the pressure switch. Swop the plug leads over on
switches 93 & 95 (alarm & shutdown switches)– this may be used as a ‘get me home’
solution. (see picture)
• Difficulty clutching in (engine shuts down on low gear oil pressure) – control oil pressure
valve No. 21 maybe sticking.
• Clean small in-line pencil filter
• Remove valve / piston and inspect for freeness of parts etc.
• Small piece of metal stuck under valve seat – can be a sign that the bearings are
starting to fail and this is a piece of case hardening
• If the gearbox fails to clutch at all – even when clutched in locally the clutch drops out
straight away –
• Clutch in button ‘stuck in’ on bridge centre or LIPS panels
• Earth fault with LIPS panels buttons – sea water ingress
• Shaft still turns after the gearbox has been de-clutched – Oil temp too low.
(note; that clutch should not be engaged if oil temp is below 10 oC)
53
8.3.5 PRESSURE SWITCH INDENTIFICATION

Item Control
No. point Remark
90 21.0 Operating indication multi disc clutch ON
increase (Viking governor)
91 21.0 Operating indication multi disc clutch ON
increase (LIPS)
92 15.0 Valve item 21 locked
increase
93 22.0 Operating oil pressure min. for opening multi disc clutch
decrease (Viking governor)
94 0.4 Lubrication oil pressure for emergency stop diesel engine
decrease (Viking)
95 24.0 Operating oil pressure alarm, multi disc clutch
decrease (Isis)
97 2.5 Differential pressure installed at the Oil Filter
(Isis)
110 60oC Lube Oil temperature, inlet.
(Isis)
54
8.4 GEARBOX PRESSURE SWITCH INDENTIFICATION
VALVE No. 100 VALVE No. 95 VALVE No.93 VALVE No.90

LUBE OIL PRESSURE OPERATING OIL OPERATING OIL PRESSURE OPERATING INDICATION
ALARM,2 STAGE PRESSURE MULTI MIN FOR OPENING MULTI DISC MULTI DISC CLUTCH
(ISIS) DISC CLUTCH (isis) CLUTCH (VIKING SHUT DOWN) ‘ON’ (VIKING
24.0 bar decreasing 22.0 BAR DECREASING GOVERNOR)
21 BAR INCREASE
VALVE No.94 VALVE No.92 VALVE No.91

LUB OIL PRESSURE FOR VALVE ITEM 21 LOCKED OPERATING INDICATION
EMERGENCY STOP DIESEL MULTI DISC CLUTCH ‘ON’
ENGINE (VIKING GOVERNOR) (LIPS)
0.4 BAR DECREASE 21.0 BAR INCREASE
55
8.5 Gearbox & Clutch setting pressures
8.5.1 DIAGRAM
0-40 bar PRESSURE GAUGE
FOR SETTING CONTROL
OIL PRESSURE
THIS OIL PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE SETS
THE LUBRICATING OIL PRESSURE,
AT IDLE IT IS TYPICALLY 0.5 bar AND AT
FULL SPEED IT IS 5.5 bar AT 40 OC
TO ADJUST - REMOVE CAP AND SCREW 0-10 bar PRESSURE GAUGE
ANTI-CLOCKWISE TO INCREASE THE FOR ADJUSTING LUB OIL
PRESSURE PRESSURE
SET PRESSURE TO 27-29
bar WHEN FULLY
CLUTCHED IN ON THE
0-40 bar PRESSURE
GAUGE. OIL TEMP TO
BE 40-50OC
OIL CONTROL VALVE ‘SOFT’ CLUTCH IN CONTROL OIL PRESSURE REGULATOR

ie SET TO 7 bar WHEN FIRST PART OF CLUTCHING IN IS
TAKING PLACE OR WHEN PRESSING SOLENOID VALVE
SOLENOID VALVE No.21 WHEN ENGINE RUNNING BUT NOT CLUTCHED IN.
No. 21 – operates SET PRESSURE ON 0-40 BAR GAUGE – MOVE GAUGE LINE
‘soft’ clutch in part of TO APPROPRIATE SENSOR POINT DOWN BY OUTPUT
operation SHAFT
8.5.2 LUB OIL PRESSURE – using 0-10 bar pressure gauge

• At idle speed oil pressure should be approx. 0.5 bar
• At full speed oil pressure should be 5.5 bar
• Oil temp 40 – 50oC
• Adjust pressure using relief valve next to the oil filter – remove cap & turn anti-clockwise
to increase pressure.
56
8.5.3 CONTROL OIL PRESSURE – using 0-40 bar pressure gauge

• At idle speed with clutch out pressure should be 0 bar
• As clutch engages the pressure will rise slowly to 7 bar and stay there for 10 seconds (this
can be set up by manually pressing in the solenoid valve on the oil control valve when the
engine is at idle & not yet clutched in – the control oil pressure should rise to 7 bar but
will not turn the shaft) – adjust the pressure using the lower adjusting screw on the oil
control valve.
• After 10 seconds the pressure will rise to 27 to 29 bar – adjust the pressure using the
upper adjusting screw on the oil control valve – again the oil temp should be 40-50 oC
NOTE – according to RENK the engine should not be clutched in if the oil temp is below
10oC – run the engine for a while with the sea water overboard closed until the temperature
rises.
• Oil temp alarm 60oC

• Oil temp shutdown 70oC
57
8.6 MAIN ENGINE GEARBOX – internal views (during overhaul)
Clutch pack plates
Alternate plates have gear teeth on

inner or outer edges that mesh with the
inner or outer shafts / casing on the
input shaft
Clutch pack plates
Stack of alternate clutch plates
Outer casing of clutch housing
Clutch plates fit into longitudinal groves

providing the drive once the clutch is
engaged
Clutch pack fully assembled
58
Input shaft clutch pack – removal

of bearing requiring heat
Input & output shafts in

gearbox housing
Thrust bearing – notice damage to case

hardening. This is normally picked up
during vibration analysis testing or oil
control valve failure (pieces of metal
getting stuck under the valve seat)
Thrust bearing – load bearers!
End cover for thrust bearing –

there are some very small
lubrication holes in the gearbox
8 and it’s imperative that ALL
the components are cleaned
thoroughly.
59
9 CHAPTER 9 - PIPEWORK SYSTEMS
Oil relief valve

Lub oil pump – main engine
driven
Crankcase
extraction valve
Lub oil priming pump
MAIN ENGINE Turbo
Flow switch (flow NOTE: ‘Grid S

must be present for Flow Alarm’ sh
5 mins before
starting engine)
Main supply to gallery
Grid switch
Plate cool
Diff pressure relief valv
Glacier Filter psi)
sensor
(clean every
500 hours)
9.1 MAIN ENGINE -LUB OIL SYSTEM
MAIN
VOKES
FILTERS
(3 OFF)
60 AMOT valve Sea w

(opens at 82 oC
9.2 MAIN ENGINE – H.T.W. & L.T.W. SYTEMS

SENSORS & SHUTDOWNS
Header tank (ISIS, SHUTDOWN & KINETROL)
MAIN ENGINE H.T.W. PUMP

(engine driven)
TURBO CHARGER
Temp Probes AMOT
AIR COOLER
non return valve
L.T.W. PUMP
(engine driven) L.T. CIRC
PUMP & K
HEATER op
ge
JC
air
61
9.3 MAIN ENGINE - FUEL SYSTEM
From lon
tanks
P P P P
U U U U
M M M M
P P P P
Pressure sustaining
non-return valve
Fuel
‘snubber
’
START- l
Fuel leakage drains to STOP- loc
alarmed tank ante room
Double bridge
Skin
Pipes
P P P P
U U U U Vokes Filters
M M M M
P P P P
25
Micron
FUEL
s PUMP
Engine driven p/p

with relief & by-
pass v/v’s
62
FUEL
LEAK
TANK
ISOLATION VALVES
NO = Normally Open
NC = Normally Closed
`
To Bilge Tank
9.4 MAIN ENGINE – STARTING AIR SYSTEM

RESTRICTOR
PILOT
VALVE
RECEIVER
MOTOR
LUBRICATOR
START SOLENOI
Main engine FLYWHEEL

VE
GOV’R
ACTUATO
R
OIL
BOOSTER
MOTOR
63
PILOT
VALVE RESTRICORS
Relief v/v
RECEIVER
8 Bar 24 Bar
REDUCER
10 CHAPTER 10 – MISC. Main Supply
10.1 ROTA BOLTS
64
65

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Engineers Handbook – Volume 2 – Main Engine- Issue 1 - 2005

ENGINEERS HANDBOOK REVISION RECORD

DATE CHAPTER PAGE AUTHORISATION

Handbook re-issued – Issue 1

A COPY OF THIS DOCUMENT MUST BE INSERTED IN THE FRONT OF EVERY

MANUAL VERIFICATION FORM

NAME RANK DATE SIGNATURE

Ruston RK270 Mk.II - 20 Cyli

1.2 MAIN ENGINE POWER GRAPH

1.3 MAIN ENGINE – TORQUES & SETTINGS

18500 psi 1275 Bar

0.40mm (inlet & exhaust)

INJECTOR CLAMP 120 163

FUEL PUMP FLANGE 85 115

INJECTOR H/P PIPE NUT 80 108

INJECTOR NOZZLE NUT 180 244

ROCKER CAP SCREWS 90 122

BRIDGE PIECE LOCKNUT 50 68

TAPPET ADJUSTING LOCKNUT 110 149

CAMSHAFT GEAR 103 140

CAMSHAFT BEARING HOUSING 133 180

CAMSHAFT VIBRATION DAMPER 135

LARGE END BOLT STRETCH:

LONG 0.0322 / 0.034” 0.81 / 0.86mm

SHORT 0.027 / 0.029” 0.69 / 0.74mm

MAIN BEARING STUD BOLT STRETCH:

NARROW BEARING 0.038” / 0.040” 0.965 / 1.016mm

1.4 MAIN ENGINE FIRING ORDER

COMBINED FIRING ORDER (In direction of Rotation)

Direction of rotation for all engines – looking aft

• The engines emit 125,000 m3 / engine / hour of exhaust gas

• Each main engine turbo charger produces 1 MW of power

‘Recommended’ Operating Conditions under certain scenarios

2.1.1 Turbo Charger Inlet Temps

2.1.2Running engine on 19 legs

• If available fit the ‘BLANK’ follower guide (distinguished by the

A) With rocker gear (fuel pump disabled – worn cam)

B) Without rocker gear (faulty, badly worn inlet/exhaust valves)

2.1.3 Leaking Charge Air Cooler

2.2 ENGINE OPERATING CONDITIONS

2.2.1 FIRST START OF THE DAY

Reasons for having a gradual slow start departure from Weymouth

2.2.2 DEPART WEYMOUTH

Increase to 450 RPM for approx. 5 minutes

Increase to 850 to 870 RPM when oil temperature reaches 70 to75oC

2.2.3 SLOWING DOWN

2.3 SHUT DOWN OF AN ENGINE AT SEA

The following should be carried out when an engine is stopped at sea;

REMOVE ‘DIAMOND’ REMOVE CRANKCASE SHUT CRANKCASE

ENSURE THAT THE AIR COOLER

FAILURE TO CARRY OUT THE ABOVE

CHECKS COULD LEAD TO A

CATASTROPHIC ENGINE FAILURE

2.4 MAIN ENGINE – FUEL SYSTEM

 Open main engine fuel pump by-pass valve

2.4.2 IF IT DOES NOT START TRY THE FOLLOWING;

2.4.3 PLACES TO LOOK FOR PROBLEMS IN THE FUEL SYSTEM ARE;

The fuel ‘snubber’ has Loss of fuel pressure caused by

2.5 MAIN ENGINE - CLUTCHING AN ENGINE IN AT SEA

DISPLAY UNIT use

STOW button used to stow

CLUTCH - BLOCK this EMERGENCY FLAPS UP only

2.5.1 START BLOCK

2.5.2 CLUTCH BLOCK