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MAINTENANCE MANUAL
FOR THE
Royal
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Enfield
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CONSTELLATION 1958 on
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MAN11
Contents
SECTION A4 ENGINE DATA (SUPER METEOR)
SECTION H5 FRAME
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Cubic Capacity ... ...... ... ...... ... ......... 692 c.c. Valve Spring Free Length
Stroke ................. ... ................... ........ 90 m.m. Inner 2.1/32 (early) 1.1/2 in. (late)
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Bore ......... ... ...... ... .. Nominal 70 m.m. Outer 2.3/32 (early) 1.11/16 in. (late)
Actual 69.874 m.m./2.751 in. (Renew when reduced by 3/16 in. early or 1/16 in. late)
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(Rebore to .020 in. when wear exceeds .0065 in. Valve Timing with .012 in. clearance--
and again to .040 in. after further .0065 in. wear). Exhaust Opens ... ... 75° before B.D.C.
Exhaust Closes ... 35° after T.D.C.
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Compression Ratio ... ... ... 7.1/4 to 1 Inlet Opens ... ... ... 30° before T.D.C.
Piston Diameter- Inlet Closes ... ... ... 60° after B.D.C.
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Bottom of Skirt-
Fore and Aft. 69.811 m.m. Camshaft Bearing External Diameter .9095/.9085 in.
Top Lands 69.40/69.35 m.m. Camshaft Bearing Internal Diameter .7505/.7495 in.
Skirt is tapered and oval-turned.
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Clearance in grooves .001/ .003 in. Timing Chain-Type Single No. 110038 endless
Renew Piston Rings when gap exceeds 1/16 in. Length ... ..... ... ... 66 pitches
Various oversize Pistons and Rings available. Width ... ..... ... .225 in.
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ConRod Small End Internal Diameter .7507/.7505 in. Magneto Chain-Type Duplex No. 114500 endless
Big End Internal Diameter ........... 2.0190/2.0185 in. Length ........ ... ... 44 pitches
Bearing Shell Internal Diameter 1.8760/1.8755in. Width ... ..... ... ... 8.64 m.m.
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Crank Pin Diameter ............... ... 1.8750/1.8745in. Pitch ... ..... ... ... 8 m.m.
Roller ... ..... ... ... 5 m.m.
Driving Side Main Ball Bearing
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Type ............ ... ..... ... ...... ... ....... S.K.F.6209 Magneto Speed ... ......... ..... Half Engine Speed
Outside Diameter ... ...... ... ......... 85 m.m. Points ... ......... ..... 015 in.
Inside Diameter ... ...... ... ......... 45 m.m. Timing Advanced 3/8 in.-7/16 in. before T.D.C.
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Width ........... ... ..... ... ...... ... ......... 19 m.m. Timing Retarded 1/32 in. before T.D.C.
Timing Side Main Roller Bearing-
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Type ............ ... ..... ... ...... ... ...... S.K.F. N209 Engine Sprocket (33t Early) 29 Teeth
Outside Diameter .. ... ...... ... ......... 85 m.m. Clutch Sprocket ........... ......... ... ... 56 Teeth
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Inside Diameter .... ... ...... ... ......... 45 m.m. Final Drive Sprocket (Solo) ... ...... ... 18 Teeth
Width ........... ... ..... ... ...... ... ......... 19 m.m. Final Drive Sprocket (Sidecar) ..... .. 16 Teeth
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Cubic Capacity ... ...... ... ...... ... ......... 692 c.c. Valve Spring Free Length
Stroke ................. ... ................... ........ 90 m.m. Inner ............ ... ...... ... 1.1/2 in.
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Bore ......... ... ...... ... .. Nominal 70 m.m. Outer ..................................... 1.11/16 in.
Actual 69.877 m.m./2.752 in. (Renew when reduced by 1/16 in.)
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(Rebore to .020 in. when wear exceeds .0065 in. Valve Timing with .012 in. clearance--
and again to .040 in. after further .0065 in. wear). Exhaust Opens ... ... 83° before B.D.C.
Exhaust Closes ... 35° after T.D.C.
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Compression Ratio ... ... ... 8 to 1 Inlet Opens ... ... ... 24° before T.D.C.
Piston Diameter- Inlet Closes ... ... ... 73° after B.D.C.
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Bottom of Skirt-
Fore and Aft. 69.811 m.m. Camshaft Bearing External Diameter .9095/.9085 in.
Top Lands (later type) 69.31/69.26 m.m. Camshaft Bearing Internal Diameter .7505/.7495 in.
Top Lands (early type) 69.40/69.35 m.m.
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Scraper Ring ......................... ... .1550/.1560 in. Inlet (approx.) ...... .3440 in.
Timing Sprocket ............. ..... ... ...... 12 Teeth
Radial Thickness .................. 2.883/3.085 m.m. Camshaft Sprocket ......... ..... ... ...... 24 Teeth
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Gap when in unworn Cylinder .011 / .015 in. Magneto Sprocket ........... ..... ......... 19 Teeth
Clearance in grooves .001/ .003 in. Timing Chain-Type Single No. 110038 endless
Renew Piston Rings when gap exceeds 1/16 in. Length ... ..... ... ... 66 pitches
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Various oversize Pistons and Rings available. Width ... ..... ... .225 in.
Pitch ... ..... ... .375 in.
Piston Boss Internal Diameter ....... .7499/.7501 in. Roller ... ..... ... .250 in.
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Bearing Shell Internal Diameter 1.8760/1.8755in. Width ... ..... ... ... 8.64 m.m.
Crank Pin Diameter ............... ... 1.8750/1.8745in. Pitch ... ..... ... ... 8 m.m.
Roller ... ..... ... ... 5 m.m.
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Inside Diameter ... ...... ... ......... 45 m.m. Timing Advanced 3/8 in.-7/16 in. before T.D.C.
Width ........... ... ..... ... ...... ... ......... 19 m.m. Timing Retarded 1/32 in. before T.D.C.
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Outside Diameter .. ... ...... ... ......... 85 m.m. Clutch Sprocket ........... ......... ... ... 56 Teeth
Inside Diameter .... ... ...... ... ......... 45 m.m. Final Drive Sprocket (Solo) ... ...... ... 20 Teeth
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Width ........... ... ..... ... ...... ... ......... 19 m.m. Primary Chain Type Duplex No. 114038 endless
Length ......... ......... ... ...... ... .. 92 pitches
Rocker Inside Diameter ... ...... ... .5627/.5622 in. Width .......... ......... ... ...... ... .628 in.
Rocker Bearing Inside Diameter .5622/.5617 in. Pitch ............ ......... ... ...... .… 375 in.
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Rocker Spindle Diameter ...... ... .5617/.5615 in. Roller .......... ......... ... ...... ... ......... .250 in.
Inlet Valve Stem Diameter .... ... .3430/.3425 in. Feed Oil Pump-Speed .. ....... ... . 1/6 Engine Speed
Exhaust Valve Stem Diameter ... .3410/.3405 in. Piston Diameter .24975/.24950 in.
Valve Guide Internal Diameter .3437/.3447 in. Stroke ... ... .5 in.
Valve Guide External Diameter .6275/.6270 in.
Valve Guide Hole in Cylinder Head Dia. .625/.626 in. Return Oil Pump-Speed .. 1/6 Engine Speed.
Piston Diameter .375.3755 in.
Stroke ... ... .5 in.
Tappet Stem Diameter ........... ... .3743/.3740 in.
Tappet Guide Internal Diameter .3755/.3745 in. Spark Plug: Engine numbers SMSA 6751 - 6795
Tappet Guide External Diameter 1.0125/1.0130 in. (short reach) Champion L5 or L11S
Tappet Guide Hole in Crankcase Dia 1.011/1.010 in.
Tappet Clearance with cold engine: Engine numbers SMSA 6796 onwards
Inlet .............. ... ..... ... ...... ... ............. Nil
Exhaust ................. ... ....................... Nil (long reach) Champion N3 or NA10
For continuous high speed running set
Exhaust tappet to .005 in. clearance
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SECTION B4
Engine Specification
" Super Meteor "
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gear. It has dry sump lubrication with the oil The combined crankcase and oil tank is
tank integral with the crankcase and a massive die-cast from light alloy in two halves, being
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adequate cooling. The exhaust pipe inserts are quality meehanite cast iron. The total weight is
cast in and the valve inserts are of austenitic 26lbs. and it is carefully balanced.
iron and are shrunk in so that they are The main journals are ground and the big end
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replaceable. Steel wire thread inserts which are journals are ground and hand-lapped.
easily renewable are provided for the sparking
plugs to prevent damage to the threads in the 8. Main Bearings
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heads. The large capacity induction ports are Heavy duty bearings are provided for the
streamlined and blended to the valve seatings. crankshaft, the driving side being ball and the
timing side roller.
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3. Cylinders
The separate cast iron cylinders have a 9. Camshafts
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nominal bore of 70 m.m., the stroke being 90 The camshafts are machined from drop
m.m. The cubic capacity of the engine is 692 forged steel stampings with the cams and
c.c. The cylinder heads are located on the
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expansion aluminium alloy, heat treated and stampings of special Silicon-Chrome Valve
form-turned oval and having split skirts. The Steel and the exhaust valves are of austenitic
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compression rings. Both are taper ground and 11. Valve Gear
the top one is chromium plated. The third ring is The valves are operated from the camshafts
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for oil control and is slotted. by means of large flat based guided tappets,
tubular alloy push rods and overhead rockers.
Two compression springs are fitted to each
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Section B4 Page 1
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timing chest. The tension of this chain is gauze dry filter, 5 in. diameter and housed in a
adjusted by moving the magneto fixing bolts in compartment of the toolbox.
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Separate systems are provided for ignition Lubrication is by the Royal Enfield Dry
and lighting. The former is by the latest type of Sump system which is entirely automatic and
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Lucas brushless Magneto with rotating magnet positive in action. The oil tank is integral with
and stationary contact breaker. The magneto the crankcase, ensuring the full rate of
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runs at half engine speed and has a built-in circulation immediately the engine is started and
distributor and double cam. rapid heating of the oil in cold weather.
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Lighting current is supplied by the battery There are two positively driven piston type
which is charged through a rectifier from an oil pumps running at engine speed, one at the
alternator consisting of a rotating magnet rear of the timing cover for pumping oil to the
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mounted on the crankshaft and running in a bearings under pressure and the other at the
six-coil stator in the primary chaincase. front for returning the oil from the crankcase to
14. Carburettor. (See Section F2) the tank. The return pump has a capacity
Amal Monobloc Type 376/41 Bore 1 1/16in. approximately double that of the feed pump
Main Jet ... ... 240 which ensures that oil does not accumulate in
Needle Jet ... ... Standard the crankcase.
Pilot Jet ... ... 30 c.c. The oil from the big ends drains into the
Throttle Valve ...... No. 3½ bottom of the crankcase and is prevented by a
Needle Position ...... No. 3 baffle from being drawn up by the flywheel.
Pilot Outlet ... ... .025 in. The oil from the rocker bearings is squirted
through a small hole in the rocker on to the top
Section B4 Page 2
end of the pushrod. It flows down the push rod The breather is located on the driving side of
into the cam tunnel where it lubricates the cams the crankcase and consists of a small housing
and tappets and thence into the timing chest, attached to the crankcase by three screws and
lubricating the timing chains. There are small having a short rubber tube with flattened end,
holes from the cam tunnels through the cylinder which acts as a non-return valve.
walls for the purpose of lubricating the skirts of On some models the housing contains two
the pistons. pen-steel discs covering two holes drilled in the
Both pumps are double acting, one side of crankcase. Accurate seating of the discs is
the feed pump supplying the big ends only and ensured by a pen-steel plate held between the
the other side the rockers and valve gear. In a breather body and the crankcase.
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crankcase and the other side the valve gear oil The gearbox is bolted on to the back of the
back to the tank from the timing chest. crankcase and has four speeds, which are foot
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A spring loaded relief valve controls the controlled, and a patented neutral finder. All
pressure of the oil to the valve rocker gear gears are in constant mesh, changes being
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which is through external pipes. effected by robust dog clutches. (See Section
A gauze strainer is provided for the feed oil E).
leaving the tank and there is a large capacity felt
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filter in the feed to the big ends. An aluminium The standard gear ratios are as follows :-
cylinder is fitted over the fixing stud inside the ...... Solo Sidecar
filter element to reduce the volume of oil Bottom Gear ...... 12.05 13.55
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required to fill the filter after it has been Second Gear ........ ...... 7.87 8.85
dismantled for cleaning and to ensure the rapid Third Gear ........... ...... 5.63 6.34
flow of oil to the big ends. Top Gear .............. ...... 4.33 4.88
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17. Breather
19. Clutch
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the crankcase and the outside atmosphere, lined on both sides with friction material. The
causing a partial vacuum in the crankcase and other friction plates have Klinger inserts which
rocker boxes which prevents the passage of oil give smooth operation and freedom from
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into the cylinders and consequent smoking and slipping in the presence of oil.
oiling of the plugs.
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Section B4 Page 3
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Position 1. The plunger A is being drawn out of Position 2. The plunger A is being pushed into the
the cylinder hole in the disc C by the action of the peg cylinder hole in the disc C. The port T in the disc
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B on the shaft D. The port T in the disc C registers now registers with the delivery port X in the housing,
with the suction port Y in the housing, so that oil is so that oil is forced out of the cylinder to the big
drawn into the cylinder from the oil tank. At the same ends. At the same time the suction port Z in the
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time the delivery port W in the housing is uncovered housing is uncovered and oil is drawn into the
and oil below the disc in the housing is forced through housing below the disc from the oil tank.
W to the rocker gear.
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6. Crankcase
The combined crankcase and oil tank are
2. Cylinder Heads
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adequate cooling. The exhaust pipe inserts are 7. Crankshaft and Flywheel
cast in and the valve inserts are of austenitic iron The crankshaft is cast in one piece, integral
and are shrunk in so that they are replaceable. with the massive central flywheel, from high
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Steel wire thread inserts which are easily quality spheroidal graphitic cast iron. The total
renewable are provided for the sparking plugs to weight is 24 lbs. and except in some earlier
prevent damage to the threads in the heads. The engines the crankshafts are dynamically
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9. Camshafts
The pistons are of low expansion aluminium The camshafts are machined from
alloy, heat-treated and form-turned oval. The drop-forged steel stampings with the cams and
compression ratio is 8 to 1.
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of lighter weight than earlier types, and whilst The camshafts are located in the crankcase
retaining similar compression rings, the bottom and run in bronze bushes. The bushes on the
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piston ring groove contains 2 separate oil near side are pressed into detachable housings
control rings (see Fig. 7, section C). All which are bolted to the driving side crankcase.
compression rings are taper ground, the top one This enables the camshafts to be changed, if so
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Timinium collars. The springs are specially magneto and the lighting and other electrical
designed to give a variable rate on compression. circuits from a 6-volt battery which is charged
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running in bronze bushes. They are driven by a chaincase, the permanent magnet rotor being
common endless chain from the timing sprocket mounted on the end of the crankshaft and the six
on the crankshaft and the tightness of the chain coil stator fixed to the back of the chaincase.
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can be adjusted by means of the chain tensioner The magneto is chain-driven from the inlet
in the timing chest. camshaft at half engine speed and the timing is
The magneto is driven by a separate endless hand controlled from a lever on the handlebar.
chain from the rear camshaft sprocket in the 14. Single Carburettor (see Section F)
timing chest. The tension of this chain is The carburettor is an Amal Type Tl0.TT9,
adjusted by moving the magneto fixing bolts in with a bore of 1.3/16 inches.
their slotted holes. For very high speeds it is essential to have an
A special slotted bolt securing the front independent float chamber flexibly mounted as
camshaft sprocket provides a drive to a near the centre-line of the machine as possible.
Carburettor type 376/242 supplies the the other side the rockers and valve gear. In a
left-hand cylinder, and has an integral float similar manner one side of the return pump
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chamber which also controls the fuel supply via pumps the big end oil back to the tank from the
a connecting pipe to the right hand instrument crankcase and the other side the valve gear oil
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type 376/243. This does not have a float back to the tank from the timing chest.
chamber in unit with it. A spring loaded relief valve controls the
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Main Jet ........................ ... ... 320 pressure of the oil to the valve rocker gear
Needle Jet ..................... ... ... 106 which is through external pipes.
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Throttle Valve .......... ... ... 376/4 A gauze strainer is provided for the feed oil
Pilot Jet ......................... ... ... 25 c.c. leaving the tank and there is a large capacity felt
Needle Position .......... ... ... 3 filter in the feed to the big ends. An aluminium
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diameter Vokes Micre-Vee felt and gauze dry dismantled for cleaning and to ensure the rapid
filter in a compartment of the toolbox, but the flow of oil to the big ends.
use of this may reduce the maximum speed A small circular magnet is also fitted over
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slightly. the fixing stud inside the oil filter for the
Owing to the positions of the twin purpose of collecting any ferrous particles
carburettors in relation to the toolbox, it is not which may be suspended in the oil.
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circulation immediately the engine is started and partial vacuum in the crankcase and rocker
rapid heating of the oil in cold weather. boxes which prevents the passage of oil into the
There are two positively driven piston type cylinders and consequent smoking and oiling of
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the bearings under pressure and the other at the the crankcase and consists of a small housing
attached to the crankcase by three screws. This
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which ensures that oil does not accumulate in Accurate seating of the discs is ensured by a
the crankcase. pen-steel plate held between the breather body
The oil from the big ends drains into the and the crankcase.
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bottom of the crankcase and is prevented by a The Neoprene pipe, found on early models,
baffle from being drawn up by the flywheel. which breathes directly into the atmosphere
The oil from the rocker bearings is squirted from the breather housing, has been replaced on
through a small hole in the rocker on to the top later models by a metal pipe running from the
end of the push rod. It flows down the push rod breather housing to the top of the oil tank.
into the cam tunnel where it lubricates the cams In addition a breather, in the form of a pen-
and tappets and thence into the timing chest, steel disc, is situated in a recess in the head of
lubricating the timing chains. There are small the special bolt, which secures the alternator
holes from the inlet cam tunnel through the rotor on to the end of the crankshaft. This bolt is
cylinder walls for the purpose of lubricating the drilled throughout its length, and communicates
skirts of the pistons and a hole from the inlet cam
The gearbox is bolted on to the back of the This assembly gives smooth operation, and
crankcase and has four speeds, which are foot eliminates clutch slip under the most arduous
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effected by robust dog clutches. (See Section the latest Enfield design, which enables stronger
E). clutch springs to be used without increasing the
The standard gear ratios are as follows :- force required to operate it, thus giving
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Bottom Gear .......... ... ...... ... .. 12.35 increased load carrying capacity to the clutch.
Second Gear .......... ... ...... ... .. 8.16 A description of the operating mechanism is
Third Gear .......... ... ...... ... .. 6.04 given in Section E, Sub-section 1.
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Position 1. The plunger A is being drawn out of Position 2. The plunger A is being pushed into the
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the cylinder hole in the disc C by the action of the peg cylinder hole in the disc C. The port T in the disc
B on the shaft D. The port T in the disc C registers now registers with the delivery port X in the housing,
with the suction port Y in the housing, so that oil is so that oil is forced out of the cylinder to the big
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drawn into the cylinder from the oil tank. At the same ends. At the same time the suction port Z in the
time the delivery port W in the housing is uncovered housing is uncovered and oil is drawn into the
and oil below the disc in the housing is forced through housing below the disc from the oil tank.
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removed. Remove the timing side exhaust pipe Exhaust closes 35° after top dead centre.
and the oil filler neck, by taking out the three Inlet opens 30° before top dead centre.
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screws fixing it to the crankcase. Remove the Inlet closes 60° after bottom dead centre.
timing cover fixing screws. Draw off the timing
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screws through the cover to locate the gasket. a screw in the outer end of the rocker. Access to
See that the thrust washer is on the chain the adjusting screws is obtained by removing
tensioner sprocket spindle and that the neoprene the covers of the rocker boxes.
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seal is in position on the oil feed plug. If the seal The clearance between the end of the screw
is split or otherwise damaged, a new one should and the valve stem cap should be nil or as little
be fitted, of the latest type, which is captive on as possible with the engine COLD.
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the feed plug. The feed plug is Part No. 42113 To adjust the clearance, loosen the locknut
and the seal is Part No. 42114. If the plug is beneath the rocker arm, turn the screw with a
damaged it should be renewed to ensure oil small spanner and re-tighten the locknut.
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pressure to the big end bearings. The adjustment for each valve should be
The refitting of the cover will be facilitated if made with the corresponding valve of the other
the engine is turned gently forwards while the cylinder fully open. This ensures that the tappet
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cover is being put into place. This will help the is well clear of the ramp which is located on
engagement of the pump worm with the pump either side of the cam to reduce valve noise.
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spindle and prevent damage to the gears. If, after long service, the valve stem cap or
Always fill the filter with clean oil before the rocker adjusting screw are found to be worn,
refitting the timing cover and always take great they should be renewed, as uneven thrust due to
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care not to damage the gasket where the section the screw being in a different position after
is narrow. adjustment may cause lateral movement of the
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To verify that the oil pumps are working rocker giving rise to a sharp tapping noise.
after replacing the timing cover, start the engine
and remove the oil filler cap so that the oil 4. Ignition Timing
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return pipe can be seen. It may take several The setting of the ignition depends upon the
minutes for all the oil passages to fill and the oil position of the sprocket relative to the magneto
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The camshaft sprockets are keyed to the The sprocket is built into the automatic
camshafts so that the valve timing can only be advance device and is mounted on a smooth
incorrect if the timing chain is incorrectly fitted. taper on the magneto shaft. It is held in position
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The correct setting is obtained with the by a nut. (Right Hand Thread.)
marks stamped on the camshaft sprockets To remove the sprocket and auto-advance
facing each other inwards on the centre line and device, unscrew the nut and this will draw the
the mark on the crankshaft sprockets pointing sprocket off.
vertically downwards. If it is necessary to Before setting the timing remove the rotor
remove the sprockets see Subsections 23 and arm of the distributor and adjust the contact
24. breaker points to a clearance of .015 in. when
Remember that all three timing sprocket fully opened.
fixing bolts have Left Hand Threads. While Because of the auto-advance mechanism,
tightening the camshaft bolts, the sprockets the timing is normally in the "retard" position
should be held. when the engine is stationary. Rotate the two
Section C4 Page 1
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Section C4 Page 2
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removing the chain case cover, which is held in
position by a single nut. Before removing the
nut, place a tray under the engine to catch the oil
from the chaincase.
Beneath the bottom run of the chain is a
curved slipper on which the chain rests and
which may be raised or lowered by turning the
adjusting screw after having first slackened the
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locknut.
A rubber button is fitted to the end of the
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pistons are 3/8 to 7/16 in. before top dead centre the engine shaft.
on the compression stroke of the left hand
cylinder, i.e. with both valves closed.
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advance mechanism.
The timing can be checked by removing the
cap from the magneto and holding the rotor arm
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Section C4 Page 3
tool box.
Remove the two nuts on either side of the
seat attaching it to the frame and lift the seat
and mudguard off.
9. Removal of Petrol Tank
Turn off the petrol tap.
The petrol tank is attached to the frame by a
rubber mounted stud at the front, and is clipped
at the rear to a rubber sleeve surrounding the
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(Subsection 9.)
The dual seat may also be removed if
desired (Subsection 8.)
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The tension of the timing chain is altered by Disconnect the head steady link.
moving the quadrant after slackening the nut A Disconnect the oil pipes and plug lead.
which secures it (see Fig. 3). This rotates the Remove the exhaust pipes and carburettor
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fitted correctly in the quadrant fork. If the chain in position in the cylinder barrel and that the
tightens when the quadrant is moved to the push rods are the right way up (shallow cups
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In making the adjustment, care must be taken Lower the cylinder head over the push rods,
to see that any backlash in the quadrant is taken making sure that the rockers locate in the push
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progressively until the correct tension is When both heads have reached this stage, fit
obtained and then lock the quadrant. If the chain the induction pipe and tighten the nuts. The
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becomes too tight during adjustment, slacken it cylinder head nuts can now be finally tightened
right back and make the adjustment again. down progressively and diagonally from one
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If the chain is maladjusted, it may give rise side to the other to prevent distortion. After the
to a loud noise which can be mistaken for a engine has been run long enough to get
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faulty bearing. If such a noise is heard, thoroughly hot, the tightness of the nuts should
therefore, first check the adjustment of the be re-checked.
timing chain.
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Section C4 Page 4
should be fitted in order to maintain the
interference. It is necessary to re-cut the valve
seat and grind in the valve after a guide has been
replaced. (See Subsection 18.)
A worn exhaust valve guide may give rise to
slight smoking from the exhaust pipe due to oil
passing down the valve stem on to the hot valve
head. This may also be caused or increased by
faulty operation of the breather.
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order that they may be re-assembled with the with a pair of pliers and a new one fitted.
valve from which they were removed. To fit a new insert a special tool T.2142,
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Deal similarly with the other valves in the consisting of a piece of 7/16 in. diameter tube
heads. or rod with a slot cut in the end is required.
If the valve will not slide easily through the
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The first is a piece of tube with an internal The new insert is placed over the tool with
bore of not less than 7/8 in. the tag engaging in the slot and it is screwed into
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The second is a mandrel about 4 in. long the plug hole in the cylinder head from the
made from 9/16 in. diameter bar with the end outside until the last coil is 1 to 1.1/2 threads
turned down to about 5/16 in. diameter for 1/2 below the top face. A reverse twist of the tool
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Section C4 Page 5
way round and so that the pistons go back into
the same barrels the same way round.
Take care not to drop the gudgeon pin circlip
into the crankcase. A clean cloth should be put
over the mouths of the crankcase to prevent
this.
17. Decarbonising
Having removed the cylinder heads as
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gaskets.
Do not, in any circumstances, use caustic
soda or potash for the removal of carbon from
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aluminium alloy.
Scrape away all carbon from the valve heads
and beneath the head, being very careful not to
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With a tang of a file remove one of the wire little grinding-in compound, place a light, short
circlips retaining the gudgeon pins. If necessary coil spring over the valve stem and beneath the
rotate the engine slightly until the pistons are in head, insert the valve into its appropriate guide,
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such a position that the gudgeon pins will clear press it on to the seat using a tool with a suction
the long cylinder studs when being withdrawn. cup and with a backwards and forwards rotary
Use Special Tool No. E.5477 to extract the motion, grind it on to its seat. Alternatively, a
gudgeon pin or using a rod about 1/4 in. in tool which pulls on the valve stem can be used.
diameter insert this right through one gudgeon Frequently lift the valve and move it round so
pin and drive the other pin out of its piston, that an even and true seating is obtained. If no
supporting the connecting rod substantially light spring is available, the lifting will have to
meanwhile to prevent distortion. be done by hand. Continue grinding until a
Having lifted the first piston away, the other bright ring is visible on both valve and seating.
one may be readily removed in the same The faces and seats of the exhaust valves are
manner. Mark the pistons and gudgeon pins so cut at 45 degrees but the profiles of the inlet
that they go back into the same pistons the same valves are of a special streamlined design which
Section C4 Page 6
cylinder base and cylinder head. Two paper
gaskets are fitted to the base of each cylinder.
Smear clean oil over the pistons, having
replaced the rings if these have been removed,
lower the piston over the connecting rod and
insert the gudgeon pin from the outer side. Fit
the circlip and then fit the second piston in a
similar manner.
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Subsection 17).
Oil the cylinder bores and lower the barrels
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are tight.
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tool consisting of an arbor No. T 2053 and cutter before oil reaches the big ends. After emptying
No. T 2054 is available. Great care must be the filter chamber it is essential to run the
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exercised in using this tool, as it is located off engine slowly for about five minutes to ensure
the valve guides and these may be damaged if that oil is reaching the big ends.
suitable apparatus is not employed. The felt element should be taken out and
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The inlet valve faces and seats can be cut at washed in petrol after the first 500 miles and
45 degrees in cases of expediency but this may after every subsequent 2,000 miles. Fit a new
have a deleterious effect on the performance of element every 5,000 miles.
the engine.
19. Re-Assembly after Decarbonising 21. Overhaul of Oil Pumps
Before building up the engine, see that all Remove the timing cover as described in
parts are scrupulously clean and place them Subsection 1.
conveniently to hand on a clean sheet of brown Remove the end plates from both pumps.
paper. Remove the pump discs and plungers.
It is advisable to fit new gaskets to the Remove the pump spindle which can be
pulled out from the front or return pump end.
Section C4 Page 7
Check the fit of the plungers in the pump 23. Removal of Pump Worm and Timing
discs which should have a minimum of Sprocket
clearance but should be able to be moved in and Remove the timing chains (Subsection 22).
out by hand. Unscrew the oil pump worm by means of the
If, when fitting a new disc or plunger, the hexagon head behind it. This is a Left Hand
plunger is found to be too tight a fit, carefully Thread.
lap with metal polish until it is just free. If the Withdraw the timing sprocket using Special
pump disc is not seating properly or if a new Tool No. E.4869. Do not attempt to withdraw
pump disc is being fitted, it should be lapped to the sprocket by tapping the worm as this will
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the seating with Special Tool No. E.5425, using dislodge the locking nut in the crankshaft. (See
Carborundum 360 Fine Paste or liquid metal Section D, Subsection 6.)
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petrol after lapping to remove all traces of Remove the timing chains (Subsection 22).
grinding paste. Unscrew the camshaft sprocket fixing bolt,
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The feed pump spring is stronger than that in which has a Left Hand Thread, at the same time
the return pump and care must be taken to see holding the sprocket.
that they are not interchanged. The feed pump is Withdraw the sprocket by means of a
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driver in a clockwise direction looking on the off, taking care not to lose the key.
front and it can then be seen whether the pumps Unscrew the engine sprocket nut using
are operating correctly.
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in the timing cover between the oil pumps. The driving and driven clutch plates. The clutch
oil return to the tank can be checked by sprocket can then be withdrawn from the centre
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removing the oil filler cap. The feed to the after removal of the large circlip which secures
rockers can be observed by removing the it.
rocker-box covers, when oil will be seen When replacing the engine sprocket, take
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flowing down the surface of the push rods. care that the felt washer is not nipped behind
the sprocket. This would make the engine very
22. Removal of Timing Chains stiff to turn over and would damage the washer
Loosen the magneto fixing bolts. and allow leakage from the crankcase.
Remove the magneto sprocket (Subsection 4).
Lift the magneto chain off the cam sprocket. 27. Removal of Tappets and Guides
Loosen the chain tensioner locknut and stud. It is only necessary to remove the tappets
Lift the adjusting plate clear of the chain and guides if they have become worn.
tensioner spindle. Remove the cylinder heads and barrels.
Remove the chain tensioner spindle and (Subsections 10 and 15).
sprocket.
Lift the chain off the sprockets.
Section C4 Page 8
Extract the tappet guides, using Special Tool Great care must be taken not to nip the felt
No. E.5790, having heated the case first. washer behind the sprocket on re-assembly as
The guides are made from Nickel Chrome this would make the engine very stiff to turn
Alloy Iron and if a guide should break while over and would damage the washer and allow
removing it, it can be withdrawn with a pair of leakage from the crankcase.
pliers if the crankcase is heated locally with a
blowlamp. Otherwise it is necessary to 32. Oil Pipe Unions
dismantle the crankcase and drive the tappet and The oil feed to the rocker gear is through
guide out from underneath using a heavy bar in pipes from unions at the back of the crankcase
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0.015 to 0.025 in. in the crankcase and can be wire thread inserts to prevent the threads in the
driven in with a bronze drift, care being taken aluminium from stripping.
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when the guide is nearly home to avoid breaking The method of fitting the thread inserts is
the collar. the same as that used for the sparking plug
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If the breather is not operating efficiently, it prevent excessive pressure and whose setting is
may cause pressure in the crankcase, instead of not critical.
a partial vacuum, giving rise to smoking or over The valve is located in the crankcase face
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steel plate taking great care to keep it away from can be reset by screwing the plug in until it is
the discs or their seatings. flush with the face of the crankcase, which will
cause the pressure to be relieved at
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Remove the engine sprocket and clutch aluminium into the screwdriver slot with a small
sprocket together as described in Subsection 26. centre punch.
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shaft with Special Tool No. E.5414. held in position by three studs and distance
pieces. The rotor, which contains the permanent
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case by taking out three socket screws. positions and care must be taken when re-fitting
Remove the grub screw locking the final to see that it is not less than .010 in. at any
drive sprocket nut. point.
Hold the sprocket and remove the nut (Right Fit the rotor first, making sure that it is
Hand Thread). The sprocket can then be located concentrically on the end of the
withdrawn. crankshaft. Attention must be given to the
seating of the key because a badly-fitting key
31. Removal of Bearing Housing Felt Washer may cause the rotor to run unevenly. The nut
Remove the engine sprocket, clutch and rear holding the rotor in position is secured by a tab
half of the primary chain case. washer.
The felt washer is located in the steel Having fitted the rotor, place the three
housing at the back of the chain case. distance collars over the three studs in the
Section C4 Page 9
primary chaincase and put the stator in position This is a gauge .015 in. greater in radius than
with the coil connections facing outwards. the rotor and fits over the adaptor on the end of
Replace the nuts and shakeproof washers the crankshaft in the rotor's place.
only finger tight and insert six strips (preferably The stator is then put in position on the stud
of non-magnetic material) .015 in. thick and in the chaincase and the nuts tightened up.
about 1/8 in. wide between the rotor and each Remove the gauge and fit the rotor, then
pole piece. check the air gap.
Tighten the stator nuts and withdraw the
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less than .010 in. at any point, remove the stator crankcase by the hexagon-headed screws.
and file or grind the pole piece carefully until the Access to these is obtained by removing the
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Section C4 Page 10
SECTION C11
Service Operations with Engine in Frame
Constellation
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1. Removal of the Timing Cover Remember that all three timing sprocket fixing
First place a tray under the engine to catch bolts have Left Hand Threads. While
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the oil which will escape when the cover is tightening the camshaft bolts the sprockets
removed. Remove the timing side exhaust pipe. should be held.
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Remove the oil filler neck by taking out the The correct valve timing at -012 in. tappet
three screws fixing it to the crankcase. Remove clearance is as follows:-
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the timing cover fixing screws. Draw off the Exhaust opens 83° before bottom dead centre.
timing cover, tapping it lightly if necessary. Exhaust closes 35° after top dead centre.
In refitting the cover, insert the two long Inlet opens 24° before top dead centre.
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screws through the cover to locate the gasket. Inlet closes 73° after bottom dead centre.
See that the thrust washer is on the chain
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should be fitted. The seal is Part No. 42114 and the adjusting screws is obtained by removing
the plug is Part No. 42113. (This seal can get the covers of the rocker boxes.
damaged due to poor alignment of the The clearance between the end of the screw
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crankshaft and oil feed plug. There is a and the valve stem should be nil or as little as
modification available to alleviate this possible with the engine COLD.
problem). To adjust the clearance, loosen the locknut
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The refitting of the cover will be facilitated beneath the rocker arm, turn the screw with a
if the engine is turned gently forwards while the small spanner and re-tighten the locknut.
cover is being put into place. This will help the The adjustment of each valve should be
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engagement of the pump worm with the pump made with the corresponding valve of the other
spindle and prevent damage to the gears. cylinder fully open. This ensures that the tappet
or
Always fill the filter with clean oil before is well clear of the cam.
refitting the timing cover and always take great If, after long service, the rocker adjusting
care not to damage the gasket where the section
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after replacing the timing cover, start the engine may cause lateral movement of the rocker,
and slacken the feed plug between the oil giving rise to a sharp tapping noise.
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pipe can be seen. It may take several minutes Remove the timing cover (Subsection 1).
for all the oil passages to fill and the oil to Remove the cam sprockets (Subsection 24).
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commence circulating. The feed to the rockers Remove the three screws holding each of the
can be observed by removing the rocker-box camshaft bearing housings.
covers, when oil will be seen flowing down the Compress the valve springs and withdraw
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nut.
Replace the timing cover.
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curved slipper on which the chain rests and It is imperative that the quadrant is fitted the
which may be raised or lowered by turning the right way round and that the eccentric spindle is
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adjusting screw after having first slackened the fitted correctly in the quadrant fork. If the chain
locknut. tightens when the quadrant is moved to the
A rubber button is fitted to the end of the
or
rotate the engine slowly and, while doing so, taken up in the "tightening" direction, i.e., do
test the tension of the top run of the chain by not make the chain too tight and then move the
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pressing it up and down with the fingers. Adjust quadrant back slightly, but tighten the chain
the tension so that there is 1/4 in. up and down
s.
screw, replace the chain cover and replenish slacken it right back and make the adjustment
with oil. again.
If the chain is too slack it may give rise to a
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6. Timing Chain Adjustment loud noise which can be mistaken for a faulty
Before adjusting the tension of the timing bearing. If it is too tight the result will be a high
chain, turn the engine until the chain is in its pitched howl. If such noises are heard, therefore,
tightest position, checking the chain between all first check the adjustment of the timing chain.
sprockets.
Adjust the tension so that there is 1/4 in.
movement of the chain. 7. Magneto Chain Adjustment
The tension of the timing chain is altered by To adjust the magneto chain tension, remove
moving the quadrant after slackening the nut A the timing cover (see Subsection 1), slacken the
which secures it (see Fig. 2). This rotates the three magneto fixing nuts, slide the magneto
eccentric spindle on which the chain tensioner back until the chain has about 3/16 in. up and
jockey sprocket is mounted. Tightening of the down movement, then tighten the fixing nuts.
chain is effected by moving the quadrant to the
Section C11 Page 2
8. Removal of the Dual Seat and Rear
Mudguard
Disconnect the leads to the rear lamp by
pulling out the plugs in the connectors near the
tool box.
Loosen the two nuts on either side of the seat
attaching the mudguard carrier to the frame and
lift the seat, mudguard and carrier off together.
9. Removal of the Petrol Tank
Remove the petrol tank by detaching the
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tighten down.
s.
is loose) and split collets together in order that Special tools are available for tapping and
they may be re-assembled with the valve from inserting the steel wire inserts. The latter tool
which they were removed. consists of a piece of 7/16 in. diameter tube or
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Deal similarly with the other valves in the rod with a slot cut in the end.
heads. The insert is placed over the tool with the tag
If the valve will not slide easily through the engaging in the slot and it is screwed into the
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valve guide, remove any slight burrs on the end plug hole in the cylinder head from the outside
of the valve stem with a carborundum stone. If until the last coil is 1 to 1.1/2 threads below the
the burrs are not removed and the valve is forced top face. A reverse twist of the tool will then
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inner side, and the rocker spindle may be drawn If the cylinder head has not been removed,
out by means of a bolt screwed into the rocker care must be taken not to drop the end of the tag
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spindle, which is tapped 5/16" B.S.F. into the cylinder and in such a case it is better to
On re-assembling make sure that the spring break off the tag with a pair of long-nosed
washers are fitted on the sides of the rockers pliers.
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nearest the centre of the engine and the plain Note: Engines with a Number prior to
thrust washers on the outer sides. SMSA 6800 have short reach plugs, in which
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To remove the valve guides from the heads 15. Removal of the Cylinders
two special tools are required which can easily When the cylinder heads have been removed
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The second is a mandrel about 4 in. long It is advisable to put a clean cloth over the
made from 9/16 in. diameter bar with the end mouth of the crankcase to prevent anything,
turned down to about 5/16. diameter for 1/2 in. such as a piece of broken piston ring, from
Support the cylinder head on the tube which falling in.
fits over the collar of the valve guide. Using the When replacing the cylinders, clean off the
mandrel force the guide out of the head with a joint faces and fit new paper joints, two to each
hand press or by using a hammer. cylinder.
To fit a new guide, support the head at the
correct angle and use a hand press and the same 16. Removal of Pistons
mandrel. If a hand press is not available and the Remove the cylinder heads and cylinders.
guide is replaced by a hammer, use a piece of With a tang of a file remove the two outer
circlips retaining the gudgeon pins. Remove the
17. Decarbonising
Having removed the cylinder heads as
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aluminium alloy.
Scrape away all carbon from the valve heads
and beneath the heads, being very careful not to
or
cause any damage to the valve faces. cup and with a backwards and forwards rotary
If the piston rings are removed the grooves motion, grind it on to its seat. Alternatively, a
tool which pulls on the valve stem can be used.
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should be cleaned out and new rings fitted. For Frequently lift the valve and move it round so
cleaning the grooves, a piece of discarded ring that an even and true seating is obtained. If no
thrust into a wooden handle and filed to a chisel
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point is a useful tool. light spring is available, the lifting will have to
If the piston ring gaps exceed 1/16 in. when be done by hand. Continue grinding until a
bright ring is visible on both valve and seating.
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is .011-.015 in. The gap should be measured in The faces and seats of the exhaust valves are
the least worn part of the cylinder, which will be cut at 45 degrees but the profiles of the inlet
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found to be the extreme top or bottom of the valves are of a special streamlined design which
bore. eliminates pockets and sharp edges and allows a
While the cylinders and pistons are not in smooth flow of gas without eddies.
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position on the engine, cover the crankcase with If the inlet valves or their seats are pitted and
a clean cloth to prevent the ingress of dust and require recutting, care must be taken to
dirt of all kinds. Do not, of course, attempt to reproduce the correct profile as shown in Fig. 6.
scrape the carbon from the pistons when the
mouths of the crankcase are open. The cylinder heads should preferably be
returned to the Works for the inlet valve seats to
18. Grinding-in Valves be re-cut, but, if this is not possible, a special
To grind a valve, smear the seating with a tool consisting of an arbor No. T 2053 and cutter
little grinding in compound, place a light, short No. T2054 is available. Great care must be
coil spring over the valve stem and beneath the exercised in using this tool as it is located off the
head, insert the valve into its appropriate guide,
press it on to the seat using a tool with a suction
parts are scrupulously clean and place them After the engine has been assembled, run it
conveniently to hand on a clean sheet of brown for a brief period at a speed which will ensure
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whether excessive wear has taken place (see "blueing" of the exhaust pipes may take place.
Subsection 17). After the engine has been run for some time
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It is advisable to fit new gaskets to the and has become thoroughly hot, go over all the
cylinder base and cylinder head. Two paper cylinder head and other nuts to ensure that they
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similar manner.
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or
plunger is found to be too tight a fit, carefully 24. Removal of the Camshaft Sprockets
lap with metal polish until it is just free. If the
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the seating with Special Tool No. E.5425, using time holding the sprocket.
Carborundum 360 Fine Paste or liquid metal Withdraw the sprocket by means of a
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petrol after lapping to remove all traces of 25. Removal of the Magneto
grinding paste. Remove the timing cover (Subsection 1).
Check the pump disc springs for fatigue by Remove three fixing nuts.
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assembling in the timing cover and placing the Lift the chain off the sprocket and withdraw
pump covers in position. If the springs are the magneto and sprocket complete.
correct, the pump cover should be held 1/4 in.
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off the timing cover by the feed pump spring and 26. Removal of the Engine and Clutch
1/8 in. off by the return pump spring. Sprockets
The pump spindle should be renewed if The primary chain is endless so that it is
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excessive wear has taken place on the teeth. necessary to remove both the engine and clutch
Re-assemble the oil pumps, replacing the sprockets simultaneously.
paper cover gaskets if necessary. Before fitting On early models the alternator stator is
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each cover fill the pump chamber with clean oil. removed by undoing the three fixing screws, but
Having assembled the pumps, lay the timing in the case of later types, the smaller diameter
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cover flat and fill the oil ports by means of an stator must be withdrawn from the adaptor ring
oilcan. Turn the pump spindle with a screw after removing three nuts. The adaptor ring can
driver in a clockwise direction looking on the
or
Fill the filter chamber with clean oil and alternator rotor, which can then be drawn off,
replace the timing cover, taking great care not to taking care not to lose the key.
damage the gasket where the section is narrow. Unscrew the engine sprocket nut using
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When the timing cover has been refitted on Special Tool No. E.4877. The engine sprocket is
the engine, the oil feed to the big ends can be mounted on splines and can then be removed
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checked by partially unscrewing the feed plug in with the clutch sprocket.
the timing cover between the oil pumps. The oil
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removing it, it can be withdrawn with a pair of compound away from the discs and seatings.
pliers if the crankcase is heated locally with a Where fitted, the breather which operates
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blowlamp. Otherwise it is necessary to dismantle through the end of the crankshaft, may be
the crankcase and drive the tappet and guide out inspected by removing the slotted plug from the
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from underneath using a heavy bar in the cam head of the rotor retaining bolt. (See Fig. 8.)
tunnel. 29. Removal of the Clutch
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The guide should have an interference of Remove the engine sprocket and clutch
.0015 to .0025 in. in the crankcase and can be sprocket together as described in Subsection 26.
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driven in with a bronze drift, care being taken To remove the clutch hub, hold the clutch
when the guide is nearly home to avoid breaking with Special Tool No. E 4871 and remove the
the collar. centre retaining nut and washer with a box
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28. Dismantling the Breathers case by taking out three socket screws.
If the breathers are not operating efficiently, Remove the grub screw locking the final
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not critical. secure the rotor with the appropriate bolt or nut
The valve is located in the crankcase face and washer.
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behind the timing cover and consists of a 3/16 Having fitted the rotor, secure the adaptor
in. diameter steel ball held in position by a ring of 1960 models with the three
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should not normally require to be disturbed but, distance pieces over the three chaincase studs.
if it is found necessary to dismantle it, it can be The stator may then be fitted, with the coil
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reset by screwing the plug in until it is flush with connections facing outwards.
the face of the crankcase, which will cause the Replace the nuts and shakeproof washers
pressure to be relieved at approximately 10 lbs. only fingertight, and insert six strips (preferably
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per square inch. The plug is prevented from of nonmagnetic material) .015 in. thick and
moving by peening over the aluminium into the about 1/8 in. wide between the rotor and each
screwdriver slot with a small centre punch. pole piece.
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stator and the rotor. The stator of 1960 models less than .010 in. at any point, remove the stator
is mounted on to the three studs of the adaptor and file or grind the pole piece carefully until
ring, which in turn is secured to the back half of the correct gap is obtained.
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diameter and mounted on to the primary use of Special Tool No. T2055.
chaincase with three studs and distance pieces. This is a gauge .015 in. greater in radius than
the rotor and fits over the adaptor on the end of
or
bolt and spring washer on 1960 models, and by in the chaincase and the nuts tightened up.
a nut and tab washer on earlier models. Remove the gauge and fit the rotor, then
check the air gap.
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Remove the dual seat and petrol tank. Support the engine on a suitable box or
Remove the engine steady. wood block.
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Remove the tool box cover and slide the Raise the centre stand and remove the
flexible connection to the air cleaner off the spring.
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induction pipe (where fitted). Loosen the bottom gearbox nuts and swing
Remove the exhaust pipe. the lower engine plates down.
Disconnect the electric horn leads. Remove the front engine plates, horn and
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cylinder base.
s.
driving side is a tight fit on the shaft and can be crankcase and the inner roller race on the crank-
removed with Special Tool No. E.5121. If this is shaft as described in Subsection 4.
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not available, the shaft can be driven out with a Be sure that the inner race is driven on just
hide mallet or a soft metal drift. flush with the end of the crankshaft and no
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degrees C. by immersion in hot water or in an of the rollers into the crankcase and cause
oven after which the bearing can be driven out serious damage to the engine.
using a drift which applies pressure to the
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drift taking great care to keep the bearing square Lay the crankcase flat on the bench and
with the bore. insert the shaft, with the inner roller race in
To remove the outer roller race from the position, arranging the connecting rods so that
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timing side crankcase, first heat the crankcase they do not foul the crankcase.
then drive the race out using a small punch Insert the camshafts in their correct position
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To remove the connecting rods from the Bolt the two halves of the crankcase
crankshaft, first take out the cotter pins securing together. The crankshaft should now be drawn
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the socket screws in the connecting rods and into its correct position by fitting the engine
sprocket temporarily and tightening the nut
s.
sure that the caps are refitted the same way (b) Driving-side First. Support the
round on the same rods and that the rods crankshaft with the driving end pointing
themselves are refitted the same way round on upwards and place the distance piece in
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crankcase driven on to it (without heating) by wire insert can be fitted. The crankshaft should
means of a tubular drift applied to the inner race preferably be returned to the Works for this to be
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of the bearing or the crankcase may be drawn on done or, alternatively, the hole can be drilled out
to the shaft by means of the sprocket nut with a 7/16 in. in dia., using the timing sprocket as a
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temporary distance piece in place of the drill bush and new threads tapped with a special
sprocket. tool. Note that the thread is left-hand.
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The oil passage through the big ends is sealed for the sparking plugs.
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or
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and washer.
Remove the main shaft nut (Left Hand Thread).
The gearbox inner cover can then be removed
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Section E4 Page 1
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es.
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Section E4 Page 2
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(See Section C1 or C2.) The top gear pinion and If the main shaft top gear pinion and dog
dog will come away with the mainshaft. have been removed, make sure that the dog is
The layshaft can then be removed and the replaced the right way round or third and top
2nd and 3rd gears drawn off the final drive gears can be engaged simultaneously.
sleeve together with the operator fork. Make sure that the trunnions on the operator
To take out the final drive sleeve, the final fork engage with the slots in the inside operator.
drive sprocket must be removed and this is See that the main shaft is pushed right home
preferably done before removing the inner (It may tighten in the felt washer inside the final
cover. (See Section C1 or C2.) drive shaft nut.)
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The mainshaft ball bearings can be removed kickstarter shaft and ratchet assembled on to it
by using a stepped drift 1.7/16 in.–1.11/64 in. before fitting the end cover. Do not forget the
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diameter for the bearing in the box and 13/16 washer on the layshaft between the kickstarter
in.-39/64 in. diameter for the bearing in the pinion and the kickstarter shaft.
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39/64 in. diameter must be used for the bearings Make sure that all parts are clean before
in the box and cover respectively. commencing assembly. In normal climates the
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Note the felt washer in the recess behind the recesses in the gearbox should be packed with
larger main shaft bearing and the dished soft grease and the box should be filled up to the
pen-steel washer between the bearing and the correct level with gear oil. (See Subsection 9.)
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felt washer. The second dished pen-steel On no account must heavy yellow grease be
washer, if fitted, has a smaller central hole and used.
is on the other side of the main shaft bearing and
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is nipped between the inner face of the bearing 6. Dismantling and Re-assembly of the Clutch
and the shoulder on the final drive sleeve. See The method of removing the clutch is
that both of the dished pen-steel washers have described in Section C1 or C2.
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their raised portions facing towards the clutch When re-assembling, note that two of the
and final drive sprocket. steel plates are dished and that the other(s) are
flat. The correct order of assembly is shown on
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ratchet mechanism are slackened, the adjuster retaining cover before fitting the pressure plate.
plate can be set in the correct position. In this Make sure that the distance tubes inside three
position the movement of the gear lever of the springs pass through the holes in the
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necessary to engage the ratchet teeth will be pressure plate. The other three springs are
approximately the same in each direction. located by means of bosses on the clutch cap.
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If the plate is incorrectly adjusted, it may be Tighten the spring pins as far as they will go
found that, after moving from top to third or If the clutch lifts unevenly it is probable that one
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from bottom to second gear, the outer ratchets of the springs has taken a set, in which case new
do not engage the teeth on the inner ratchets springs should be fitted.
s.
correctly.
If, when fitting new parts, it is found that the 7. Adjustment of the Clutch Control
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gears do not engage properly, ascertain whether It is essential that there should be about 1/16
a little more movement is required or whether in. free movement in the clutch cable, to ensure
there is too much movement so that the gear that all the spring pressure is exerted on the
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made if necessary.
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pedal is obtained.
9. Gearbox Oil Level
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Section E4 Page 4
SECTION E7
Gearbox and Clutch
1958 – 1960 Constellation
1. Description of the Clutch KL engages with two pinions M and N which
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The clutch is built into the clutch sprocket are free to rotate or slide on the layshaft G.
and is mounted on the gearbox mainshaft which The double pinion KL has dogs at each end
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projects through into the primary chaincase. which can engage with dogs on the pinion E or
There are five driven plates which are plain on the pinion J.
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and four driving plates, giving eight friction The pinions M and N have internal dogs
surfaces. which can engage or slide over projecting dogs
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The driven plates comprise the clutch centre P and Q on the layshaft G.
backplate, three plain plates on splines on the The double pinion KL and the pinions M and
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clutch centre and the clutch cover plate. N all slide together and are moved by the
The driving plates comprise the clutch operator fork R and are located by a spring
sprocket itself, which has a ring of friction plunger S which engages with a notched plate
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material riveted to each side, and three plates which is part of the operator arm R.
which rotate with it. Early models have all three The kickstart lever is connected to the pinion
plates pierced and fitted with Klingerite inserts, F on the layshaft by a ratchet mechanism which
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but later models use a pierced plate with friction automatically disengages when the lever is
material inserts only on the plate nearest the released.
clutch sprocket. The other two plates employ a
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operating mechanism.
The clutch operating mechanism consists of a
torque arm which is held stationary by a stud in
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Section E7 Page 1
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3. Removal of the Gearbox Note the felt washer in the recess behind the
This is described in Section D, Subsection 2. larger mainshaft bearing and the dished
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The gearbox can, however, be completely pen-steel washer between the bearing and the
dismantled with the engine in the frame except felt washer. (Later gearboxes use a neoprene
seal with a flat washer). The second dished
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4. To Dismantle the Gearbox bearing and is nipped between the inner face of
First remove the kickstart crank, the the bearing and the shoulder on the final drive
changegear lever and the neutral finder and sleeve. However this is ommited from later
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attached by two screws. plate can be set in the correct position. In this
Remove four cheese-headed screws and one position the movement of the gear lever
hexagon bolt. necessary to engage the ratchet teeth will be
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Remove the spring box locating plunger nut approximately the same in each direction.
and washer. If the plate is incorrectly adjusted, it may be
or
Remove the mainshaft nut (left-hand found that, after moving from top to third or
thread). from bottom to second gear, the outer ratchets
The gearbox inner cover can then be do not engage the teeth on the inner ratchets
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removed. correctly.
The mainshaft can be drawn straight out if If, when fitting new parts, it is found that the
the clutch has been removed, which, however, gears do not engage properly, ascertain whether
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should be done before taking off the gearbox a little more movement is required or whether
inner cover. (See Section C.) The top gear there is too much movement so that the gear
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pinion and dog will come away with the slips right through second or third gear into
s.
Section E7 Page 2
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over so that the dogs on K engage with the dogs on the pinion J. This
causes the double pinion KL, the mainshaft sleeve C and the sprocket D
to rotate with the pinion J which is being driven from the mainshaft
through the layshaft G. The dogs P and Q are not engaged.
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Fig. 3C-Second Gear. The sliding pinions have moved so that the
dogs on J are disengaged but the dogs P on the layshaft engage with the
pinion M. The drive from the mainshaft and layshaft then passes
through pinions M and K to the splines on the mainshaft sleeve and the
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OPERATION OF GEARS
Fig. 3
Section E7 Page 3
See that the mainshaft is pushed right home. The joint between the gearbox and the inner
It may tighten in the felt washer inside the final cover should be made with gold size, shellac or
drive shaft nut. a similar jointing compound.
The layshaft top gear and kickstarter pinion Make sure that all parts are clean before
should be assembled on the layshaft and the commencing assembly. In normal climates the
kickstarter shaft and ratchet assembled on to it recesses in the gearbox should be packed with
before fitting the end cover. Do not forget the soft grease and the box should be filled up to the
washer on the layshaft between the kickstarter correct level with engine oil. (See Subsection
pinion and the kickstarter shaft. 11.) On no account must heavy yellow grease
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Section E7 Page 4
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Section E7 Page 5
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8. Dismantling and Reassembling the Clutch that there is still clearance in the operating
The method of removing the clutch is mechanism. This can conveniently be done by
described in Section C. means of a screwdriver in the slot in the end of
When reassembling the clutch, the following the pressure plate withdrawing pin.
sequence must be adhered to, after first securing Surplus slack in the control cable can now be
the clutch sprocket with the large circlip. taken up by means of a mid cable adjuster which
Fit the cush rubbers, retaining plates and should be adjusted so that there is about 1/16 in.
three distance tubes, and follow with the free movement on the cable and securely locked
pressure plate assembly as follows: in this position.
Plain dished plate (dish projecting outwards). (1) If the adjustment in the clutch
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Friction plate.
When reassembling the pressure and outer (2) If excessive clearance is given either in
plates, see that the three distance tubes are fitted the operating mechanism or in the control cable
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over the pins securing the outer plate to the the clutch will drag when lifted.
clutch centre and that the six springs are (3) If excessive clearance is given in the
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correctly positioned between the two plates. operating mechanism and this is taken up by
Tighten the three pressure plate pins as far as adjusting the control cable, it will be found that
they will go. the top of the clutch operating lever knuckle will
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If the clutch lifts unevenly it is probably that bear against the underside of the cable stop
one of the springs has taken a set, in which case formed on the torque arm before the handlebar
new springs should be fitted. lever comes against the rubber grip. This will
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clutch control cable. The adjustment in the clutch The neutral finder is adjusted by means of an
control mechanism must be adjusted so that the eccentric stop secured to the front of the gearbox
or
end of the operating lever has about 1/32 in. free cover by a bolt which limits the travel of the
movement. To do this first make sure that there operating pedal. Slacken the bolt and turn the
is plenty of slack in the control cable (or eccentric stop until the correct movement of the
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slot in its end. Turning this pin clockwise will The gearbox is filled with oil by removing a
increase the clearance in the operating plug in the top and the correct level can be
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mechanism; turning it anti-clockwise will take checked by removing a second plug lower down
s.
up the clearance. Lock up the locknut and check on the left-hand side looking at the cover.
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Section E7 Page 6
SECTION F3
Amal 10TT9 Carburetter
1. General Description If you look up into the bottom of the mixing
This carburetter comprises two main parts, chamber when the jet holder has been removed,
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the mixing chamber and the float chamber. They the jet choke tube will be seen. This is slotted to
are held together by the jet holder, which houses facilitate its removal, which should not be
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the main jet and the needle jet. Above these, and necessary, however, neither should it be
inside the mixing chamber, is the choke adaptor necessary to remove the choke adaptor, but if it
into which, from below, is screwed the jet choke is removed, take note of the washer beneath it.
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tube. Sliding in the mixing chamber and Take note, also, of the two washers, one above
surrounding the choke adaptor is the throttle and the other below the float chamber
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valve (No. 5) and into this is clipped the jet connection to the mixing chamber.
needle by means of a sliding clip which will fit To dismantle the float chamber (it is
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into any one of seven grooves. A tapered spring assumed that the petrol feed connection has
fits between the throttle valve and the mixing been broken), remove the float chamber banjo
chamber top, which is secured by a screwed ring nut and the banjo, taking care of the washers on
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lower end. Into the top of this boss a narrow release the float needle and give access to the
slide is fitted, spring controlled and connected, float in the float chamber. The float guide may
through a cable, to the air lever on the be removed by unscrewing it from below
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handlebar.
Screwed into the mixing chamber body just 3. Carburation
below the inlet to the engine is the pilot jet
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The mixing chamber is mounted on the maximum volume of air may flow through to
cylinder head by a two-bolt flange and the air charge the cylinder, also causing the maximum
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intake tube is screwed to the outer face of the depression or suction on the jet to supply the
mixing chamber. A spring clip embracing this fuel and atomise it.
tube is used to lock the top cap in position. Needle Control to the Jet. Perfect carburation
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Screwed into the base of the float chamber is throughout the range of the opening of the
a base plug embodying a guide for the float. The throttle means acceleration clean and snappy.
float operates a needle valve seating in the float
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petrol feed, is secured by a large banjo nut. throttle openings -bad for acceleration and plugs.
The needle reduces the flow of petrol above the
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Section F3 Page 1
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Section F3 Page 2
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mixing chamber. The standard needle jet bore is mixture as it passes through the primary choke
numbered. can be handlebar regulated by the air control at
The Throttle Valve surrounds the choke the side of the carburetter, less air being
block in the carburetter, and when it is open admitted to enrich the mixture for starting or
leaves a perfectly shaped passage. Apart from atmosphere conditions demanding more liquid
controlling the main jet outlet, it is also used to fuel to give the correct mixture strength. As the
control the supply of air to the main jet supply at engine speed increases at a given throttle
low throttle openings-this actual control is by opening so the mixture would tend to get rich,
means of the cut-away on the lower edge of the but as the air flow through the primary choke
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intake side of the throttle valve - a smaller above the main jet also increases, there is a
cut-away increasing the mixture strength at damping effect on the flow of liquid and a
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Throttles with different cut-aways can be confirm that the correct size needle jet is fitted.
supplied, the number of the cut-away being the
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height of the cutaway from the bottom edge Standard Carburetter Settings
measured in sixteenths of an inch. Carburetter Type : Amal 10TT9.
Jets. The pilot jet, for starting off with, is Main Jet : 480.
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unlike the standard Amal touring pilot jet Needle Jet : - 109.
because the adjustment regulates the fuel flow Choke Bore : 13/16 in.
and not the air. This adjustment gives a wider Throttle Valve : 5.
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range for any fuel which is mixed with air Needle Position : No. 3 Groove.
coming through a small hole under the Float Chamber : 302/10 Single Banjo.
Carburetter-this mixture for idling and "starting
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bore. the engine and the correct needle jet for the fuel
The main jet can be got at easily without to be used, the procedure is simple. Start off
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disturbing the float chamber by removing the with an assumed setting, and then tune as
hexagon cap under the bolt that holds the float follows. There are four phases
chamber to the mixing chamber. Main jets are (i) Main jet for power at full throttle.
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numbered, the higher the number the larger the (ii) Pilot jet for idling.
flow; various numbered main jets are available (iii) Throttle cut-away for "take-off" from
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chamber has removed the necessity for a double Sequence of tuning. (i) Main jet size. (ii)
float chamber as fitted previously. Pilot jet adjustment. (iii) Throttle valve
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spring which is anchored on to the air funnel greatest maximum speed should be selected,
and engages the knurled mixing chamber cap, keeping in mind the safety factor for cooling.
and a drilled boss for wiring up to hold the float (The air lever should be fully open during these
chamber holding screw to prevent it from tests.)
vibrating loose. For the petrol pipe union we (ii) Pilot Jet Adjustment. Before attempting
leave you to make your own device. to set the pilot adjuster the engine should be at
Compensation and Air Control. The main jet its normal running temperature, otherwise a
does not spray directly into the choke bore of the faulty adjustment is possible, which will upset
mixing chamber. It first passes through the the correct selection of the throttle valve. The
needle jet and is there partially atomised by a pilot adjuster, which controls the amount of fuel
blast of primary air, which can be seen at the passed, is rotated clockwise, to weaken the
base of the main choke. The richness of the
Section F3 Page 3
mixture, and anti-clockwise to enrich it. Adjust With more cut-away on the air intake side (or
this very gradually until a satisfactory tick-over vice versa if weak).
is obtained, but take care that the achievement of (iv) Jet Needle Position.Tuning sequence
too slow a tick-over - that is, slower than is (ii) and (iii) will affect carburation up to some-
actually necessary-does not lead to a "spot" where over one-quarter throttle, after which the
which may cause stalling when the throttle is needle (which is suspended from the throttle
very slightly open. valve comes into action and when the throttle is
(iii) Throttle Cut-away. Having set the pilot opened, further and tests are again made for rich
adjuster, open up the throttle progressively and or weak spots (as previously outlined) the
note positions where, if at all, the exhaust note needle can be raised to enrich or lowered to
becomes irregular. If this is noticed, leave the weaken the mixture whichever may be found
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throttle open at this position and close the air necessary. With these adjustments correctly
lever slightly; this will indicate whether the spot made, and the main jet size settled, a perfectly
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is rich or weak. If it is a rich spot, fit a throttle progressive mixture will be obtainable from
valve tick-over to full throttle.
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Section F3 Page 4
Amal Monobloc Carburetter
1. General Description The supply of air to the engine is controlled by a
The Amal Monobloc Carburetter has been throttle slide which carries a taper needle operating
introduced as an improvement on the earlier in the needle jet. The needle is secured to the
standard needle type. In general it gives better throttle slide by a spring clip fitting in one of five
petrol consumption, combined with improved grooves and the mixture strength throughout a large
proportion of the throttle range is controlled by the
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considerable leverage ratio between the float and the largest throttle openings. At very small throttle
the needle and, in consequence, flooding is rare openings petrol and air are fed to the engine
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unless there is dirt on the needle seating. through a separate pilot system, which has an outlet
at the engine side of the throttle. The air supply to
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Section F4 Page 1
any point will have some effect on the setting then undesirably fast it can be slowed down by
required at other points; for instance, a change of unscrewing the throttle stop a fraction of a turn.
main jet will have some effect on the mixture It will be noted that of the four points at which
strength at half throttle which, however, is mainly adjustments are normally made, i.e., pilot air
controlled by the needle position. Similarly an screw, throttle cut-away, needle position and main
alteration to the throttle cut-away may affect both jet size, the first and third do not require changing
the needle position required and the adjustment of of any parts of the carburetter. Assuming that the
the pilot air screw. For this reason it is necessary to carburetter has the standard setting to suit the
tune the carburetter in a definite sequence, which particular type of engine any small adjustments
is as follows: occasioned by atmospheric conditions, changes in
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First-Main Jet. The size should be chosen quality of fuel, etc., can usually be covered by
which gives maximum speed at full throttle with adjustment of the pilot air screw and raising or
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the air control wide open. If two different sizes of lowering the taper needle one notch. If, however,
jet give the same speed the larger should be the machine is used at very high altitudes or with a
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chosen for safety as it is dangerous to run with too very restricted air cleaner a smaller main jet will be
weak a mixture at full throttle. necessary. The following table gives the reduction
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Second-The pilot air screw should be set to give in main jet size required at different altitudes:
good idling. Note that the pilot jet is detachable Altitude, ft. Reduction, %
3,000 5
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the largest amount of cut-away which will prevent some cases larger size pilot outlets are used. Since
spitting or misfiring when opening the throttle the pilot outlet is actually drilled in the body of
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with the air slide wide open. The accompanying table shows the standard
Fifth-The pilot air screw should be checked to settings for Amal Monobloc Carburetters used on
improve the idling if possible. When setting the Royal Enfield motor cycles.
adjustment of the pilot air screw this should be Both instruments used for the twin carburetter
done in conjunction with the throttle stop. Note models are identical in all respects but for the float
that the correct setting of the air screw is the one chamber arrangement, which is as follows:
which gives the fastest idling speed for a given The carburetter which supplies the left-hand
position of the throttle stop. If the idling speed is cylinder has an integral float chamber which
Section F4 Page 2
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Section F4 Page 3
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also controls the fuel supply via a connecting pipe dirt is present or, of course, the float is punctured.
to the right-hand instrument which does not have If it is necessary to remove the jet block note
a float chamber in unit with it. that this is withdrawn from the upper end of the
It is important that the pilot air screws of both mixing chamber after unscrewing the jet holder.
carburetters are in identical positions, relative to Be careful not to damage the jet block when re-
one another, the same applying to the throttle moving or refitting it. Note that the large
valves when seated on their stops. This is essential diameter of the jet block pulls down on to a thin
for an even smooth tickover and low-speed washer.
running. The speed of the tickover is regulated by A single strand of an inner control cable is
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these four adjuster screws. For an instant pick-up, useful for clearing the small passages in the jet
both throttle valves must commence to rise from block and care must be taken not to enlarge these
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their stops simultaneously, when the twist grip is by forcing the wire through them. Compressed air
rotated. This is obtained by adjusting the twin from a pipe line or a tyre pump is preferable. A
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control cables. Each main jet needle must be in choked main jet should be cleared only by
the third groove. blowing through it.
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as failure to do this may result in one slide not If the petrol consumption is excessive first
opening fully, with a resultant loss of power. look for leaks either from the carburetter, petrol
It is most important that all of these pipe, petrol tap(s) or tank. If coloured petrol is in
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adjustments are carried out in a thorough and use this will readily indicate the presence of any
careful manner if the maximum power and small leaks which otherwise might pass unnoticed.
smoothness is to be obtained. If the petrol system is free from leaks, carefully set
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The "ears" to be found on the leading edges of the pilot adjusting screw as described in
the battery and toolbox lids are to shield the Subsection 2 to give the correct mixture when
carburetter air intakes and so prevent misfiring at idling. Running with the pilot adjusting screw too
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The construction of the carburetter is clearly throttle slide by one notch. Do not fit a smaller
shown in Fig. 3. main jet as this will not affect consumption except
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If the float chamber floods, first make sure when driving on nearly full throttle and may make
that there is no dirt on the fuel needle seating. the mixture too weak at large throttle openings,
Owing to the use of a nylon needle and the thus causing overheating. Remember that faults in
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leverage ratio between float and needle, flooding other parts of the machine can have a marked
is very unlikely with this type of carburetter unless effect on petrol consumption. Examples of this
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Section F4 Page 4
Setting of Amal Monobloc carburetters on Royal Enfield Motorcycles
Carburetter Choke
Type Bore Needle Needle Throttle
Machine Number inches Main Jet Jet Position Valve Pilot Jet
250 Clipper
1955 (late) -
1958 (early) 375/10 25/32 120 105 3 4 25
250 Crusader
1957 - 1962
250 Clipper
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Crusader Sports
1959 onwards
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Super 5
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1962 on and
Continental (all) 376/283 1.1/16 180 106 4 3.1/2 25
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Continental GT
1965 on 389/217 1 1/8 270 106 3 3.1/2 25
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350 Bullet
1955 (late) -
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350 Bullet
or
350 Bullet
1963 on 376/297 1.1/16 180 106 3 3.1/2 25
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500 Bullet
1956 - 1958 389/9 1.1/8 200 106 2 3.1/2 30
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220
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Meteor Minor
1958 - 1963 376/92 1.1/16 250 106 2 3.1/2 30
Super Meteor
1956 - 1962
Constellation
1963 376/41 1.1/16 240 106 3 3.1/2 30
Constellation LH 376/242
1960 - 1962 RH 376/243 1.1/16 320 106 3 4 25
Section F4 Page 5
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SECTION G1D
Lucas Rotating Magnet Magneto Model SR2
Used on 1956-59 Super Meter
1. General (i) After every 150 running hours (say 5,000
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The magneto rotor comprises a permanent miles) remove the moulded cover and add a
magnet fitted with two laminated pole shoes. FEW drops of thin machine oil to the visible
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The stator consists of laminated pole pieces end of the contact breaker pivot post.
bridged by a laminated coil core. The coil has (ii) After 1,000 running hours (say 30,000
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concentrically wound primary and secondary miles) remove the moulded cover and withdraw
windings. the rotating electrode. Slacken the fixed-contact
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The rotor is driven by the engine through an plate securing screws and pivot the assembly to
automatic advance coupling and induces an the fullest extent of the adjusting slots. Slacken
alternating magnetic field in the laminated iron the nut securing the end of the contact breaker
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core of the coil. This field in turn induces spring and lift off the moving-contact assembly.
alternating voltages in the primary and Smear the pivot pin with a small quantity of
secondary windings of the coil. Magnetic flux Mobilgrease No. 2 or its equivalent. Replace the
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due to current flowing in the primary winding components in the reverse order of dismantling.
tends to oppose any change in direction of the (iii) The magneto rotor is mounted on ball
magnetic field in the laminated iron core. In this
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voltage to be induced in the secondary winding. or Agent and the bearings repacked with high
The body of the magneto is formed of a melting point GREASE
single casting enclosed at the contact breaker (b) Cleaning
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end by a moulded cover. The cover is designed (i) Occasionally remove the moulded cover
with the high tension cable outlets in a and wipe the inside of the cover with a soft dry
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The contact breaker gap should, therefore, be produced the sparking plugs should be cleaned
checked and, if necessary, reset as described and adjusted.
above. (ii) If no sparking is produced, examine the
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(d) Replacement of High Tension Cables high tension cable and if necessary renew it as
Use 7 mm. P.V.C. or neoprene-covered described in Sub-section 2(d).
or
rubber insulated ignition cable for the high (iii) Disconnect the cable to the cut-out
tension leads. When connecting a new cable to switch at the magneto and re-test. If the magneto
the magneto do not bare the cable but cut it off
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and pull out the old cable. Push the new cable NOTE.-In no circumstances must the contact
fully home and secure by tightening the screw. breaker cam be removed from or turned on the
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The pointed end of this will pierce the insulation, spindle. The cam is correctly positioned when
make contact with the cable core and lock the the magneto is built and the performance of the
s.
cable in place. After fitting a high tension cable a instrument depends on this position being
continuity test should be made between the maintained.
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To locate cause of misfiring or failure of no attention beyond making sure that it operates
ignition, check as follows:- freely and the springs are securely fastened. For
timing instructions see Section C4, Subsection
4.
Plugs not sparking. Detach the high tension cables from the plugs.
Hold the cables 1/8” (3.17 mm.) from the engine
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substitution.
(ii) If no spark is produced, check the cables by
substitution. Clean and check inside of cable
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cover.
Defect in cut-out circuit. Disconnect the remote cut-out switch and crank
the engine. If the engine now starts, renew the
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ENGINE MISFIRES. Defective fuel supply. Inspect the carburetter, petrol supply, etc.
Sparking plugs need cleaning and Remove plugs from engine. Clean off soot or
adjusting. carbon and check plug "points" for correct gap
width (.018 in.).
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Contacts need cleaning and adjusting. Clean and adjust the contact breaker.
If, after making the above checks, a fault in the magneto is suspected but cannot be located, the nearest Lucas
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Service Depot or Agent should be consulted. When communicating with a Service Depot, it is necessary, in
addition to describing the trouble, and the type and year of engine, to state the Model, Type and Service Number
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of the magneto.
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armature and a high-energy permanent magnet Refit the contact breaker. This can be made
field system, this latter being cast integral with easier if the contact breaker heel is away from
the body. The unit is designed for 3-point flange
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fixing.
Small breathing holes are provided in the
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2. Routine Maintenance
2 (a). Lubrication
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the cam lobe; turn the engine until this is so. The
breaker arm retaining spring of the K2F (42369) key on the projecting part of the contact breaker
type unit, and in the case of the later K2F base must engage with the keyway in the
(42369B) model, prise off the special locking armature shaft. Refit the hexagon-headed screw
plate from the contact breaker arm pivot pin, and tighten with care. It must not be slack, nor
taking care not to lose the insulating washer must undue force be used.
beneath it. (ii) Bearings. The main bearings of the
Slacken the screw which retains the contact magneto are packed with grease during
breaker arm spring. The contact breaker arm manufacture and need no attention until a
may then be lifted from its pivot. general overhaul is undertaken.
by its hexagon head until a feeler gauge of sealing washer and restoring spring. Solder the
appropriate thickness is a sliding fit in the gap. nipple to the end of the cable. Engage the nipple
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Tighten the locknut and recheck the gap. On with the slot in the plunger and screw the
K2F (42369B) type magnetos the cheese-headed control barrel into the body, ensuring that the
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screw which locates the spring anchor plate is sealing washer is correctly fitted between the
slackened; the plate on which the contact is barrel and the body. Take up any slackness in
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mounted may then be moved away from or the cable by means of the adjuster before
towards the contact breaker arm, to give the refitting the rubber shroud in position.
required clearance.
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(ii) Adjusting the Timing Control Cable. 2 (f). Contact Breaker Springs
Slackness in the manual control timing can be Correct contact breaker spring pressure
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taken up by sliding the waterproofing rubber measured at the contacts is 18-24 oz.
shroud up the cable and turning the
hexagon-headed cable adjuster. After adjusting, 3. Servicing
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return the rubber shroud to its original position 3 (a). Testing Magneto in Position on Engine
over the adjuster and control barrel. To locate cause of misfiring or failure of
2 (c). Cleaning ignition, check as follows
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To be carried out every 6,000 miles. (i) Remove the sparking plugs from the
Check the contact breaker contacts and, if engine. Hold the end of the H.T. cable about 1/8
necessary, clean them as described in Subsection in. from the cylinder block and crank the engine.
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2(a). Wipe the outside of the magneto to remove If strong and regular sparking is produced the
dirt or grease. Check the cable adjuster and fault lies with the sparking plug or plugs which
control barrel for signs of water ingress. must be cleaned and adjusted or renewed.
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Remove the high tension pick-ups and polish (ii) If no sparking is produced, examine the
with a soft dry cloth. Each carbon brush must H.T. cable and, if necessary, renew it as
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move freely in its holder and, if necessary, clean described above in Subsection 2 (d).
it with a petrol-moistened cloth. Should a brush (iii) Very occasionally, the fault may be due
be worn to within 1/8 in. of the shoulder it must to a cracked or punctured pick-up moulding.
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clean the slip ring track and flanges by holding a made-by substitution.
soft dry cloth against them with a suitably (iv) If the ignition cut out switch is
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shaped piece of wood while the engine is slowly suspected, disconnect the cable at the magneto
turned. and retest. If the magneto now functions
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The high tension cables must be kept clean normally, the fault is in either the cable or the
and dry. cut out switch. Correct by replacement.
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2 (d). Renewing High Tension Cables (v) If the magneto has recently been replaced
If, on inspection, the high tension cable or removed, it may be incorrectly timed. Refer
shows signs of deterioration, it must be to the engine makers' instructions, and check.
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replaced, using 7mm. rubber, P.V.C. or (vi) Check the contact breaker for cleanliness
neoprene covered ignition cable. To fit a new and correct contact setting as described under
high tension cable, bare the end for about 3/8 in., Maintenance.
thread the knurled moulded nut over the cable, If the cause of faulty operation cannot be
and thread the bared cable through the washer traced from the foregoing checks, the cause may
removed from the old cable. be an internal defect in the magneto. The
Bend back the strands radially, and screw the magneto should therefore be removed from the
nut into the pick-up moulding. engine for dismantling.
2 (e). Renewing Timing Control Cable Further ignition particulars are given in a
The timing control cable should be renewed booklet issued by the makers, a copy of which
if it becomes frayed, otherwise moisture may we shall be pleased to forward upon request.
enter the contact breaker housing.
(a) Constructional Notes The nuts that clamp the rectifier plates together
The alternator consists of a spigot mounted must never under any circumstances be
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6-coil laminated iron stator with a rotor carried slackened, as the clamping pressure has been
on and driven by an extension of the crankshaft. carefully adjusted during manufacture to obtain
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The rotor has a hexagonal steel core, each face the correct performance characteristics. A
of which carries a high energy permanent separate nut is used for securing the unit to the
magnet keyed to a laminated pole tip. The pole machine and this nut should be checked
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tips are riveted circumferentially to brass side occasionally to see that it is tight.
plates, the assembly being cast in aluminium and
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RECTIFIER
Fig. 2
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(c) Operation
The alternator stator is wound with three
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STATOR AND ROTOR OF ALTERNATOR RM15 are in use, the coils are short-circuited and the
Fig. 1 alternator output is regulated to its minimum
value by interaction of the rotor flux with the
(b) Rectifier flux set up by the current flowing in the shorted
A bridge-connected rectifier is fitted to coils. In the "Pilot" or parking lights position,
convert the alternator output to a uni-directional the shorting link is disconnected and, the
battery charging current. The rectifier requires regulating fluxes being consequently reduced,
no maintenance apart from an occasional check the alternator output increases and compensates
2. Maintenance
(a) Check wiring occasionally to see that
all connections are clean and tight.
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Fig. 3
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The Lucas A.C. Lighting-Ignition System The pole tips are riveted circumferentially to
comprises seven main components brass side plates, the assembly being cast in
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(1) Alternator with magnet rotor. aluminium and machined to give a smooth
(2) Bridge-connected rectifier. external finish. The stator and rotor can be
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Under normal running conditions, electrical induce alternating voltages in that coil. External
energy in the form of rectified A.C. passes connections are taken to these coils from a
through the battery from the alternator, the rate bridge connected rectifier (see Fig. 2).
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charge the battery. When the lighting switch is permanently connected across the rectifier bridge
turned to the "Pilot" or "Head" positions the network. The purpose of this latter pair is to
current increases proportionately. provide some degree of charging current for the
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alternator, which has an outside diameter of 5.7/8 Connections to the remaining coils vary
in. Later models are fitted with type RM15 (see according to the position of the lighting and
Fig. 1) with an outside diameter of 5 in. They ignition switch controls, as shown schematically
give a high output at low r.p.m. The alternator in Fig. 3.
comprises two main components, a stator and a When no lights are in use the alternator
rotor. The stator is built up from iron laminations output is regulated to its minimum value by
and carries three pairs of series-connected coils interaction of the rotor flux and the flux set up
insulated from the laminations. The rotor has a by current flowing in the short-circuited coils.
hexagonal steel core, each face of which carries a
To ensure easy starting in the "EMG" position
of the switch, the stator and rotor poles of the
A.C. generator must be correctly positioned. This
is ensured by: (a) fitting the rotor sleeve so that
the keyway is at the top when the engine is at
T.D.C.; (b) seeing that the key is correctly fitted;
(c) fitting the stator so that the leads enter it at
the top, at the back of the stator, and (d) timing
the contact breaker correctly, i.e., so that the
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Fig. 3
Short journeys without the battery can be
made with the switch in the "EMG" position. To
do this, the cable normally connected to the
or
disconnected and the regulating fluxes are required when the battery is disconnected, use
consequently reduced. The alternator output only the headlights and keep the engine speed
therefore increases and compensates for the low to prevent excessive voltage rise.
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An emergency starting position is provided If the rotor, stator, engine crankshaft or rear
on the ignition switch. This is for use if the half of the chaincase have been disturbed, the air
battery has become discharged and a normal start gap between the rotor and stator should be
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cannot be made. In the switch position "EMG" checked. If a feeler gauge of at least .008 in.
four coils of the alternator are connected through thick cannot be passed between the rotor and
one arm of the rectifier to the primary winding of each of the stator poles the alignment should be
the ignition coil, with the contact breaker in checked.
series. The nuts which clamp together the rectifier
This system, which on a single cylinder plate assembly must not under any
machine could cause trouble through unwanted circumstances be slackened. They have been
sparks on the compression stroke of the engine, carefully set during manufacture to give correct
does not do so on the twin, owing to the fact that rectifier performance. A separate nut is used to
the distributor permits the passage of a spark secure the rectifier to the frame of the
only when the engine is near the firing position. motorcycle.
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7. Ignition Coil Model Q6 or MA6 Examine the contact breaker, the contacts
The ignition coil should be kept clean and the must be free from grease or oil. If they are burnt
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contacts when carrying out the following breaker setting should be checked after the first
procedure. 500 miles running and subsequently every 6,000
miles. To check the gap, turn the engine over
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clean engine oil. open and insert a 0.014-0.016 in. feeler gauge
Place a spot of Ragosine oil or clean engine between the contacts.
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oil on the contact breaker pivot. If the gap width is correct the gauge will be a
Automatic Timing Control. To obtain sliding fit. To adjust the setting, set the engine in
access to this lift off the rotor arm and unscrew the position giving maximum contact opening
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the two screws securing the contact breaker base and slacken the two screws securing the fixed
plate to the distributor. Lubricate the automatic contact plate. Adjust the position of the plate
timing control, thus exposed, with Ragosine until the gap is the thickness of the gauge and
Molybdenised non-creep oil, or clean engine oil, tighten the two screws.
paying particular attention to the pivots. Refit the 9. Renewing High Tension Cables
base plate and rotor arm. If any of the high tension cables show signs
Cleaning every 6,000 miles. Remove and of perishing or cracking they must be replaced,
clean the cover paying particular attention to the using 7mm. Neoprene covered rubber ignition
spaces between the metal electrodes and check cable. To connect the cable to the distributor or
that the small carbon brush moves freely in its to ignition coil model Q6, remove the metal
holder. washer
and moulded terminal nut from the defective To connect the cable to ignition coil model
cable. Thread the new cable through the moulded MA6, pass the cable through the rubber
terminal nut and cut back the insulation for about grommet, push the metal clip into the end of the
¼ in. Pass the exposed strands through the metal cable (which should be cut off square), insert the
washer and bend them back radially. Screw the cable and clip into the socket in the end of the
terminal into the pick-up moulding. coil, and slide the grommet into place to exclude
water.
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Battery Model PUZ7E
1. General
The model PUZ7E (see Fig. 1) is a
"drycharged" battery and is supplied without
electrolyte but with its plates in a charged
condition. When the battery is required for service
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reference temperature.
The method of correction is as follows :
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3. Routine Maintenance
2. Preparation for Service Fortnightly (or more frequently in hot
The electrolyte is prepared by mixing together climates) examine the level of electrolyte in the
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distilled water and concentrated sulphuric acid, cells and if necessary add distilled water to bring
using lead-lined tanks or suitable glass or the level up to the tops of the separators. The use
earthenware vessels. Slowly add the acid to the of a Lucas Battery Filler will be found helpful, as
water, stirring with a glass rod. Never add water to it ensures that the correct electrolyte level is
the acid, as this causes dangerous spurting of the automatically maintained and also prevents
concentrated acid. The specific gravity of the distilled water from being spilled on the top of the
filling electrolyte depends on the climate in which battery (see Fig. 2).
the battery is to be used. Occasionally examine the terminals, clean and
coat them with petroleum jelly. Wipe away all
4. Servicing
If the battery is subjected to long periods of
or
Lucas Light Unit MCF 700 built into the headlamp rim. Remove the front rim and Light
Casquette fork head which also contains twin Unit assembly.
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parking lamps as well as the ammeter and Withdraw the adaptor from the Light Unit by
headlight switch. twisting it in an anti-clockwise direction and
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of the headlamp.
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4. Parking Lights
Access to the parking bulbs is obtained by
removing the parking lamp rim (see Fig. 2). This is
or
5. Tail Light
The Lucas lamp, Type 564 (Fig. 3) is a
combined stop and tail light and also incorporates
a reflector.
Access to the bulb is obtained by removing the
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movement of the brake pedal. from excessive heat affecting the plastic cover. At
Care must be taken that the leads to the stop the same time, the 6 watt filament, if used as a
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tail lamp are correctly connected, as the use of the stop-tail light, will be ineffective in bright sunlight
18 watt filament on the normal tail light will not or at night when the tail light filament is
only discharge the battery but could cause trouble illuminated.
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Section H5 Page 1
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1. Description of Frame
The frame is built throughout of cold
drawn weldless steel tubing with brazed or
welded joints, liners being fitted where
necessary for extra strength. All the main
frame members are made of
chromemolybdenum alloy steel tubing which
retains its strength and resistance to fatigue
after brazing or welding.
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suspension.
2. Steering Head Races
The steering head races, 34085, are the
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The proprietary units fitted are sealed and compress these by hand. Heavier springs
servicing of the internal mechanism can be having a rate of 130 lb. per inch are available
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carried out only by the manufacturers. which may require the use of a spring
The rubber bushes in the top and bottom compressor, as shown in Fig. 2.
eyes can easily be renewed and the spring can 5. Removal of Swinging Arm Chain Stays
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be removed by pushing down on the top spring First remove one of the pivot pin nuts and
cover so as to release the split collar above it. pull the pivot pin out from the other end. To
After removal of the split collar the top cover release the pivot bearing it is necessary to spread
and spring can be lifted off. When the rear portion of the frame, using the frame
reassembling, the spring should be greased to expander E.5431, which will spread the frame
prevent rust and squeaking if it should come sufficiently to enable the spigots on the thrust
into contact with either of the covers. washers to clear the recesses in the pivot lugs
The standard solo springs have a rate of forming part of the frame.
100 - 105 lb. per inch and it is not difficult to
Section H5 Page 2
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Fig. 3
Section H5 Page 3
If it is necessary to remove the bronze bushes as experience has shown that the provision of
these can be driven out by means of a hammer nipples at this point causes trouble through
and a suitable drift and new bushes can be fitted chafing and cutting of control and lighting cables.
under a press without difficulty. After fitting the If the steering head bearings are well packed they
bushes they must be reamed to .844/.843 in. will last for several years or many thousands of
miles.
6. Centre Stand Recommended greases are Castrolease
To remove the centre stand unscrew the nut (Heavy), Mobilgrease (No. 4), Esso Grease
from one end of the stand spindle, knock out the Energrease C. I or Shell Retinax A.
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therefore not sufficient to count the notches and wire at the junctions. The lifting handles are next
use the same position on both sides of the pulled out, after undoing the two 5/16 in. nuts on
machine. The only way to guarantee that the
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ground but, if the alignment is checked also hing the rear of the mudguard to the carrier. Note
towards the top of the wheels, it will be possible the large plain washer, this must be under the bolt
to ascertain whether or not the frame is twisted head, and bear against the top of the mudguard on
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so as to cause one wheel to be leaning while the assembly. Also the shakeproof washer and metal
other is vertical. To do this it is always necessary plate on the underside.
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to remove the mudguards and, unless a straight Lastly, the two 1/4 in. bolts attaching the
edge cut away in its centre portion is available, it front of the carrier to the mudguard, and the two
will be necessary also to remove the cylinder, 5/16 in. bolts in the carrier bridge piece, can be
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toolboxes, battery, etc., in order to allow an undone. They fit into tapped holes in the dual
unbroken straight edge or a piece of taut string to seat
contact the front and rear tyres.
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bearing and stand pivot bearing should be well this mudguard is made from glass-fibre and in
greased on assembly. The swinging arm pivot the event of damage small repair kits, consisting
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and stand pivot are provided with grease nipples of a quantity of resin, catalyst and glass fibre,
but no nipples are provided for the steering head are available from our Service Department.
Instructions for carrying out minor repairs are
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Section H5 Page 4
SECTION J1
Front Fork
With Casquette and Aluminium Alloy Bottom Tubes
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1. Description
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Section J1 Page 1
full of oil. Upward movement of the wheel 3. Dismantling the Fork to Replace Spring,
spindle forces oil from the lower chamber "A" Oil Seal or Bearing Bushes
through the annular space between the spring Place the machine on the centre stand,
stud (38067) and the bore of the main tube valve disconnect the front brake control and remove the
port (38138) into the damper chamber "B." front wheel and mudguard complete with stays.
During this stroke the pressure on the underside Unscrew the bottom spring stud nut (38080)
of the valve plate (38073) causes this to lift so which will allow oil to run out of the fork down
that oil can also pass from "A" to "B" through
the eight holes in the valve body. Since,
however, the diameter of chamber "B" is less
than that of chamber "A" there is not room in
"B" to receive all the oil which must be displaced
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Section J1 Page 2
removal of the main tube bush the bottom tube up sharply against the spring until two or three
bush, oil seal housing and oil seal can be threads on the stud project beneath the end of
removed.In case of difficulty in removing the main the bottom tube. Now fit the nut and washer and
tube bush it is possible to withdraw the oil seal pull the stud into position by tightening the nut.
housingafter loosening the crown clip bolt 39038, If necessary fit the nut first without the washer
removing the plug screw 38968 and unscrewing until sufficient thread is projecting to enable the
the main tube from the fork-head by means of a washer to be fitted.
hexagon bar .500 in. across flats (Unbrako wrench
W. 11) or the special tool shown in Fig. 2.
4. Spring
Solo and Sidecar springs are available. The free
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5. Reassembly of Parts
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Section J1 Page 3
The leads to the lighting switch and ammeter
should be disconnected from the battery, medium. All that is necessary is to keep sufficient
regulator, tail lamp, etc. at their lower ends or by oil in the fork to ensure that the top end of the
means of the plug and socket connectors when bottom spring stud is never uncovered even in the
these are provided. The switch and ammeter are full rebound position. The level of oil in the fork
push fits into the rubber bushes (LU/365408) in can be gauged by removing the top plug screw
the fork head. and inserting a long rod about 3/8 in. diameter. If
Disconnect the speedometer drive from the slightly tilted this will ledge against the nut at the
speedometer head and unscrew the steering upper end of the bottom spring stud and indicate
damper knob and rod (if fitted) after removal of the level of oil above the stud. If the fork is empty
to start with the quantity required is
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Now unscrew the fork main tubes from the The earlier forks of this type were provided
fork head and the steering stem locknut from the with holes at the upper end of each main tube
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top of the steering stem, turning each tube and the communicating with small vent holes in the
nut a turn or two at a time. When the nut has been Casquette head. Experience has shown that on
removed from the steering stem and the main rough roads oil may escape through these air vents
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tubes have been completely unscrewed from the which in consequence are now omitted. Escape of
fork head the complete fork and wheel with oil from the earlier forks can be largely eliminated
steering stem can be lifted out of the head lug of by fitting specially long plug screws, which are
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The lubrication of the fork bearings is effected Fitting the special plug screws alone is sufficient in
by the oil which forms the hydraulic damping most instances.
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Section J1 Page 4
SECTION K6
Front Wheel
With Dual 6in. Brake
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1. Removal from Fork and unscrew the cover plate nuts 31347. The
To remove the front wheel from the fork right and left hand cover plate assemblies can
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place the machine on the centre stand and front then be withdrawn from the respective brake
stand, if fitted, or alternatively with sufficient drums.
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packing (about 2 in.) beneath each side of the 3. Removal of Brake Shoes and Springs
stand to lift the wheel clear of the ground when This is best done by unscrewing the pivot pin
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tilted back on to the rear wheel. Slacken brake locknuts, 28715, and the operating lever nuts,
cable adjustments and disconnect cables from 10314, after which the assembly of brake shoes,
handlebar lever and from operating cam levers return springs, pivot pin and operating cam can
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on hub. Unscrew the four nuts securing the fork be removed from the cover plate by light blows
bottom tube lug caps (Part No. 38593) and allow with a hammer and drift on the ends of the pivot
the wheel to drop forwards out of the front fork.
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Lock the brake "on" by pressure on the ready drilled complete with rivets or ready
operating lever, 38905 (R.H.) or 38906 (L.H.), fitted to service replacement brake shoes.
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Section K6 Page 1
the inner edge of the outer race of the bearing
When riveting linings to shoes secure the two and the back of the recess in either end of the
centre rivets first so as to ensure that the lining hub barrel. To prevent any possibility of
lies flat against the shoe. Standard linings are sideways movement of the hub barrel on the
Ferodo MR41, which are drilled to receive bearings it is, therefore, necessary for the
cheese headed rivets. bearings to be a tight fit in the barrel but this fit
must not be so tight as to close down the outer
race of the bearing and thus overload the balls.
The following are the manufacturing tolerances
which control the fit of the bearings. The figures
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To remove the hub spindle and bearings there is clearance between the inner faces of the
having already removed the brake cover plate outer bearing races and the bottom of the
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assemblies, lift out the felt washers, Part No. recesses, fit the distance washer 30538, and the
21466, and distance washers, Part No. 30538. cover plate nuts, 31347, with either the cover
Now hit one end of the wheel spindle with a
or
the other in position in the hub. Drive the spindle can be turned. If tightening the nuts
bearing off the spindle and insert the latter once makes the spindle hard to turn this may be taken
more in the hub at the end from which it was as proof that the bearings are bottoming in the
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removed. Now drive the spindle through the hub recesses in the hub barrel before they are solid
the other way, when it will bring out the against the shoulders on the spindle. In this cage
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Section K6 Page 2
9. Reassembly of Brake Shoes to Cover Plates opposite positions. Floating cam brakes are
Assemble each pair of shoes with their return self-centering and there is no need to take any
springs on to the pivot pin and operating cam, special precautions to see that the two linings
putting a smear of grease in the grooves of the are of equal thickness or that the brake shoe
pivot pin and on the operating faces of the cam. assembly is centred in the drum.
Now fit the assembly into the cover plate,
putting a smear of grease on to the cylindrical 11. Refitting Brake Cover Plates
bearing surface of the operating cam and secure After assembling the brake shoe pivot pins
with the pivot pin locknut, 28715, and washer, and operating cams into the cover plates repack
17551. Fit the operating lever, 38905 or 38906, the hub bearings with grease. The recommended
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on its splines in a position to suit the extent of greases are Castrolease (Heavy), Mobilgrease
wear on the linings and secure with the nut, (No. 4), Esso Grease, Energrease C3 or Shell
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10314, and washer, 14613. Note that the Retinax A. These are all medium heavy lime
position of the operating levers may have to be soap or aluminium soap greases. The use of
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corrected when adjusting the brake after refitting H.M.P. greases which have a soda soap base is
the wheel. The range of adjustment can be not recommended as these tend to be slightly
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extended by moving these levers on to different corrosive if any damp finds its way into the
splines. Limit of wear is reached when the cam hubs.
is turned through nearly 90° with the brake hard Before fitting the distance washers and felt
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on so that there is a danger that the operating washers make sure that the inside of the brake
springs cannot return the brake to the off drums are quite clean and free from oil or
position.
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Note that the cam housings, Part No. 26836, 12. Wheel Rim
are intended to be left free to float. The bolt The rim is Type WM2-19 in. plunged and
holes in the cam housings are slotted and the
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to enable them to be tightened sufficiently to diameter after building is 19.062 in., tolerances
prevent the cam housings moving under the on the circumference of the rim shoulders where
influence of road shocks, while at the same time the tyre fits being 59.930/59.870 in. The
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they can be, and should be, left free enough to standard steel measuring tape for checking rims
be capable of being moved by hand in the is 5/16in. wide, .011 in. thick and its length is
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direction of the slots. The pins, 252, are secured 59.964/ 59.904 in.
by locknuts, 7916, which are centre punched as
an additional precaution. 13. Spokes
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The leading shoes (i.e., those towards the rear The spokes are of the single butted type 8-10
of the machine) have a servo action which gauge with 90° countersunk heads, angle of
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renders them more effective than the trailing bend 95°-100°, length 65/8 in., thread diameter
shoes. This servo action causes the linings on the .144 in., 40 threads per inch, thread form British
leading shoes to wear more quickly than those on
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Standard Cycle.
the trailing shoes and at the same time tends to
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lift the leading shoes off the cams and press the 14. Wheel Building and Truing
trailing shoes harder on to the cams. With a fixed The spokes are laced one over two and the
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cam housing the result is that the majority of the wheel rim must be built central in relation to the
cam pressure is applied to the less efficient nuts which secure the brake cover plates. The
trailing shoe. By leaving the housing free to float rim should be trued as accurately as possible, the
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the cam can follow up the leading shoe thus maximum permissible run-out both sideways
maintaining equal pressure between the cam and and radially being plus or minus 1/32in.
the two shoes and so making full use of the more
efficient leading shoe. Owing to the servo action 15. Tyre
the wear on the leading shoe with a floating cam The standard tyre is Dunlop 3.25-19in.
housing is greater than that of the trailing shoe Ribbed tread.
and in time the limit of float of the cam housing When removing the tyre always start close to
will be reached, after which the brake will the valve and see that the edge of the cover at
continue to function as a fixed cam brake with the other side of the wheel is pushed down into
some loss of efficiency. This can be restored by the well in the rim.
removing the shoes and fitting them in the
Section K6 Page 3
When replacing the tyre fit the part by the 17. Lubrication
valve last, also with the edge of the cover at the No grease nipple is provided on later hubs.
other side of the wheel pushed down into the due to the tendency to over-grease, resulting in
well. grease finding its way past the felt seal; on to the
If the correct method of fitting and removal of brake linings.
the tyre is adopted it will be found that the The correct method of lubrication is to pack
covers can be manipulated quite easily with the the bearings with grease after dismantling the
small levers supplied in the toolkit. The use of hub, as described above.
long levers and/or excessive force is liable to
damage the walls of the tyre. After inflation Note that the brake cams are drilled for
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make sure that the tyre is fitting evenly all the grease passages but the ends of these are
way round the rim. A line moulded on the wall stopped up with countersunk screws instead of
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of the tyre indicates whether or not the tyre is being fitted with grease nipples. This is done to
correctly fitted. If the tyre has a white mark, prevent excessive greasing by over-enthusiastic
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indicating a balance point, this should be fitted owners. If the cams are smeared with grease on
near the valve. assembly they should require no further
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Section K6 Page 4
SECTION L9
Rear Wheel
(Quickly Detachable Type with 7 in. diameter
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Fig. 1
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Section L9 Page 1
adjuster cam, preferably marking it to ensure Make sure also that the speedometer drive
that it is replaced in the same position. Now gearbox is correctly positioned so that there is
slide the distance collar out of the fork end and no sudden bend in the driving cable. When
lift away the speedometer drive gearbox, which replacing the connecting link in the driving
can be left attached to the driving cable. The chain, make sure that the closed end of the
spacing collar and the felt washer behind it may spring link points in the direction of travel of the
now be removed to prevent risk of them falling chain. Replace the chain adjuster cams in their
out when manipulating the tyre. If, however, original positions or, if necessary, turn each of
these are too tight a fit in the hub to come out them the same number of notches to tension the
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easily they may be left in place. The main body chain and maintain correct wheel alignment. If
of the wheel can now be pulled across to the the chain is adjusted, it will be necessary to
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right-hand side of the machine, thus disengaging reposition the front part of the chaincase. This is
the six driving pins from the cush drive shell and easily done by slackening the two screws
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enabling the wheel to be removed from the fastening it to the swinging arm chainstay before
machine. re-assembling the chaincase to the brake cover
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When replacing the main portion of the plate, then re-tightening the screws. Do not
wheel, reverse the foregoing procedure. The forget to refit the brake rod and adjust the brake
cush drive shell can be prevented from rotating so that the wheel turns freely when the brake is
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when turning the wheel to engage the six driving off, while at the same time only a small travel of
pins, if the machine is placed in gear or the rear the brake pedal is necessary to put the brake on.
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the end of the hub barrel. Before tightening the Remove the complete wheel as described
centre spindle make sure that the speedometer above, then remove the spindle nut, chain
drive gearbox is correctly positioned so that adjuster and the distance collar, thus permitting
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there is no sharp bend in the driving cable. the complete brake cover plate assembly, with
operating cam, pivot pin, shoes and return
springs, to be lifted off the hub spindle. The
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3. Removal and Replacement of Complete brake shoes can then be removed after detaching
Wheel for Access to Brake the return springs. Brake linings for alloy shoes,
are supplied either in pairs ready drilled
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top end of the chain over the tag provided at the (Part No. 41342SR). When riveting linings to
top of the fixed portion of the chaincase. Pull on shoes, secure the two centre rivets first so as to
ensure that the lining lies flat against the shoe.
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anchor nut and remove this together with the 5. Removal of Brake Operating Cam
washer behind it. Unscrew the loose section of To remove the operating cam unscrew the nut
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the spindle two or three turns and the spindle nut which secures the operating lever to the splines
by a similar amount. Mark the chain adjuster on the cam. A sharp tap on the end of the cam
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cams to ensure replacing in the same position.* spindle will now free the lever, after which the
Disconnect the speedometer driving cable and cam can be withdrawn from its housing.
slide the wheel out of the fork ends, tilting it so Do not try to remove the brake shoe pivot pin
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as to disengage the end of the brake shoe pivot and nut, as these are brazed to the cover plate.
pin from the slot in the fork end.
When replacing the wheel make sure that the
dogs on the gear in the speedometer drive 6. Cush Drive
gearbox are engaged with the slots in the end of The sprocket brake drum is free to rotate on
the hub barrel. the hub barrel. Three radial vanes are formed on
the back of the brake drum and three similar
* Note that the wheel is not necessarily correctly lined vanes are formed on the cush drive shell. Six
up when the same notch position is used on both adjuster rubber blocks are fitted between the vanes on the
cams. Once the position of the cams which gives correct brake drum and those on the cush drive shell,
alignment has been found this alignment will, however, be thus permitting only a small amount of angular
maintained if both cams are moved the same number of movement of the sprocket/brake drum relative
notches.
Section L9 Page 2
liberally with grease where it fits over the hub
barrel.
7. Removal of Ball Bearings
To remove the ball bearings take the
complete wheel out of the machine and separate
the main portion of the wheel from the
sprocket/brake drum, cush drive shell assembly,
as described above. To remove the bearing from
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Fig. 2
and the felt washer. Remove the bearing
retaining circlip from the driving sprocket end of
to the hub barrel and transmitting both driving the barrel. Between the two bearings is a spacer,
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and braking torques and smoothing out slotted at one end to enable a drift to be used on
harshness and irregularity in the former. the bearing at that end. Remove this bearing
If the cush drive rubbers become worn so that first, then enter the loose section of the spindle
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the amount of free movement measured at the into the spacer and drive out the remaining
tyre exceeds ½ in. to 1 in., the rubbers should be bearing by means of a hammer and drift applied
replaced. To obtain access to them remove the to the hexagon headed end of the spindle.
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from the assembly consisting of the fixed portion These are deep-groove Single-row journal
ball bearings. The sprocket/brake drum bearing
of the spindle, sprocket/brake drum complete is a Skefko RLS7, 7/8 in. i/d, by 2 in. o/d, by
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with brake and the cush drive shell. Now remove 9/16 in. wide. Equivalent bearings of other
the brake cover plate complete with brake shoes makes are Hoffmann LS9, Ransome & Marles
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as described above, and unscrew the three nuts at LJ 7/8 in., and Fischer LS9. The two bearings in
the back of the cush drive shell after bending the hub barrel are Skefko RLS5, 5/8 in. i/d, by
back the locking washers. The three studs are 1.9/16 in. o/d, by 7/16 in. wide. Equivalent
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brazed to the lockring and should be driven out bearings of other makes are Hoffmann LS7,
of the cush drive shell, each a little at a time to Ransome & Marles LJ 5/8 in., and Fischer LS7.
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from the cush drive shell, and the six cush drive 9. Removal of Hub Driving Pins
rubbers lifted out. To remove the six driving pins from the
aluminium full width hub, first remove the hub
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When reassembling the cush drive the entry cap after unscrewing the three screws attaching it
of the vanes between the rubbers will be to the hub. Unscrew the six Simmonds nuts and
facilitated if the latter are fitted into the driving drive out the pins.
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Section L9 Page 3
assemble the bearing into the circlip grooved end the trailing or leading shoe first makes contact
of the barrel and fit the circlip. Replace the with the drum. With the brake assembly
bearing spacer, the slot in the spacer can be at correctly centred and the screws securing the
either end of the hubs, and assemble the second cam housing correctly tightened wear on both
bearing, supporting the hub on the inner race of linings should be approximately equal.
13. Final Reassembly of Hub Before
Replacing Wheel
Before replacing the felt washers which form
the grease seals, pack all bearings with grease.
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quite free from oil or grease, damp, etc. Replace
the felt washers, distance collars, the brake cover
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the other bearing. If the drift part of E.4823 is plate assembly, speedometer drive gearbox,
not available it is essential that the last bearing is distance collars, chain adjuster cams, the loose
assembled by applying pressure to both inner section of the spindle and the spindle nut. The
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and outer races simultaneously to avoid wheel is then ready for reassembly into the
pre-loading the two hub barrel bearings. machine.
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No difficulty should be experienced in The spoke holes are symmetrical, i.e., the rim
carrying out these operations. Put a smear of can be assembled to the hub either way round.
grease in the grooves of the pivot pin and on the The rim diameter after building is 19.062 in.,
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operating face of the cam; also on to the the tolerances on the circumference of the rim
cylindrical bearing surface of the operating cam shoulders where the tyre fits being
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if this has been removed. Fit the operating lever 59.930/59.870 in. The standard steel measuring
and trunnion on its splines in a position to suit tape for checking rims is 5/16 in. wide, .011 in.
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the extent of wear on the linings and secure with thick, and its length is 59.964 59.904 in.
the nut. The range of adjustment can be extended
by moving the lever on to a different spline. 15. Spoke
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12. Centering Cam Housing diameter .144 in., 40 threads per inch, thread
Note that the bolt holes in the cam housing form British Standard Cycle. The inner spokes
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are slotted, thus enabling the brake shoe are 6.5/8 in. long with an angle of bend 100o,
assembly to be centred in the drum. It is not and the outer spokes 6.3/4 in. long with an angle
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intended that on rear brakes the cam housing of bend 80o. One security bolt is fitted. There is
should be left free to float but the shoes should also a balance weight clipped to a spoke by
be centred by leaving the screws just short of means of a small screw.
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Section L9 Page 4
17. Tyre indicating a balance point, this should be fitted
The standard tyre is Dunlop 3.50-19 in. near the valve.
studded tread.
When removing the tyre always start close to 18. Tyre Pressures
the valve and see that the edge of the cover at The recommended pressures for the rear tyre
the other side of the wheel is pushed down into are 20 lb. per sq. in. for a solo rider and 32 lb.
the well in the rim. per sq. in when a pillion passenger is carried.
When replacing the tyre fit the part by the
valve last, also with the edge of the cover at the 19. Lubrication
other side of the wheel pushed down into the Grease the bearings by packing them with
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of the tyre is adopted it will be found that the Note that the brake cam is drilled for a grease
covers can be manipulated quite easily with the passage but the end of this is stopped up with a
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small levers supplied in the tool-kit. The use of countersunk screw instead of being fitted with a
long levers and/or excessive force is liable to grease nipple. This is done to prevent excessive
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damage the walls of the tyre. After inflation greasing by over-enthusiastic owners. If the cam
make sure that the tyre is fitting evenly all the is smeared with grease on assembly it should
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way round the rim. A line moulded on the wall require no further attention but in case of
of the tyre indicates whether or not the tyre is necessity it is possible to remove the screw, fit a
correctly fitted. If the tyre has a white mark grease nipple in its place and grease the cam by
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this means.
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Section L9 Page 5
SECTION M6
Special Tools
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Section M6 Page 2
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Section M6 Page 3
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Section M6 Page 4
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Section M6 Page 5
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SECTION Pl
"Airflow" Fairing
1. Description of the Fairing bridge piece from the bottom of the speedometer,
The "Airflow" fairing and front mudguard it may be removed.
are fibre glass units and therefore very light, To remove the ammeter it is only necessary to
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rigid and tough. The fairing, with the take off the rubber band from the body of the
windscreen, provides full weather protection. It ammeter, after disconnecting the leads, and press
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has two cubby holes and incorporates the down the small metal tabs which will be found
headlamp, speedometer, ammeter and lighting turned outwards. The ammeter will then pull out
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necessary to remove the mudguard and fairing 5. Removal of the Front Wheel and Fork Legs
from the machine, it will be found to present no To remove the front wheel from the fork,
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difficulty if the following sequence is adopted: place the machine on the centre stand with
sufficient packing (about 2 in.) beneath each side
of the stand to lift the wheel clear off the ground
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2. Removal of the windscreen when tilted back on to the rear wheel. Slacken
Remove the two screws which attach the the brake cable adjustment and disconnect the
number plate to the fairing. Removal of the cable from the handlebar lever and from the
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number plate will expose a screw in the centre operating cam lever on the hub. Unscrew the
of the fairing which may now be taken out, four nuts securing the fork leg caps and allow the
together with the screws at each corner of the wheel to drop forward out of the front fork.
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screen. The screen and metal back plate may Make sure that the machine stands securely on
now be lifted clear, taking care not to lose the the rear wheel and centre stand-if necessary
five female screws with their plain steel and place a weight on the saddle or a strut beneath
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and remove. Next take off the rubber ring from 6. Removal of the Front Mudguard
the light unit. By slackening the three light unit From the top of the fairing the two clamp
adjuster screws and rotating the light unit in an bolts holding the mudguard to the fork crown
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anti-clockwise direction, the unit may then be can be reached. Unscrew the nuts and push out
withdrawn sufficiently to disconnect the four the bolts.
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body shell this may be done by unscrewing the the steering stem. The mudguard may now be
four screws spaced round its flange. This also withdrawn.
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Section P1 Page 1
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8. Repairs lamp wire, through the hole in the lamp body
In the event of damage to the fairing, small shell. Fit the body shell rubber washer between
repair kits consisting of a quantity of resin, the fairing and the lamp body shell rim, and line
catalyst and glass fibre are available from our up the holes in the shell rim, the washer and the
Service Department. Instructions for carrying fairing aperture rim. Secure with the four screws
out minor repairs are issued with this kit. and locking plates, keeping the threaded plate at
the bottom.
9. Reassembly of the Connect the blue and red and the blue and
Fairing white wires to the main bulb wires in the back of
If these have been removed replace the two the light unit. Push the green and brown lead
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bottom fairing attachment studs, also fit the into the pilot lamp socket and the single red
rubber sleeve to the down tube. Next raise the earth wire from the main harness into the socket
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fairing over the fork cover tubes, locating the on the main bulb fitting.
bottom attachment plates on each leg shield The light unit may now be pushed over the
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over the attachment studs. three adjusters, after first slackening them. Turn
Incline the fairing outwards and thread the the light unit in a clockwise direction to secure.
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light and switch leads through the strut tube Afterwards tighten all the adjusters as far as
aperture, and the speedometer cable through the possible.
smaller hole below it. The fairing can then be Place the rubber ring over the light unit, with
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pushed towards the forks until the strut tube, the face marked "BACK" facing the light unit
complete with buffer assembly, has entered the rim. Locate the spigot plate, situated on the top
aperture and is positioned between the strut tube underside of the rim, with the slot in the lamp
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attachment plates. Fit the stud through the buffer body shell. Press the rim downwards and screw
assembly and attachment plates and secure in the pin at the bottom of the rim.
washers and nuts to either end. Finally, adjust the aim of the light beam by
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Complete the fairing assembly to the turning the adjuster screws in a clockwise
machine by fixing the attachment cap over the direction from the rear as neccessary. Do not
attachment stud rubber. Compress these parts turn them further than required, not more than
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together and secure with the attachment clip. two screws will need adjusting.
The exhaust system may now be fitted.
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Fit the two sealing washers to the fork cover Insert the ammeter into the off-side hole in
tubes, not forgetting the small sealing washer for the fairing, turn up under the fairing the small
or
the fork crown extension tube on Early Models. tabs on the ammeter, and fit the rubber ring,
Raise the mudguard, and thread the cover tubes pushing it up as far as possible. Connect up the
(and the fork crown extension when fitted) two wires with the tab washer type connections
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bolt holes and fit the bolts, washers and nuts fairing, place in position the switch plate and
finger tight. (On Early Models fit the fork crown secure with the nut. Finally, put on the small
extension stud and washer.) washer and the switch knob, and secure with the
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Centralise the fork leg top with the cover tube, Push the speedometer into the fairing from
and push up to the full extent. Fit and tighten the above, and secure the bracket with the nuts and
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plug screws in the fork head. washers from below. Fit the speedometer drive
The fork crown clip bolts may now be and lamp.
tightened.
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Section P1 Page 4
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HITCHCOCK’S MOTORCYCLES
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ROSEMARY COURT
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CHADWICK END
SOLIHULL
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E-MAIL: info@hitchcocksmotorcycles.com
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WEB: hitchcocksmotorcycles.com
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