MARKS & NEW PERFORMANCE STANDARDS

SPENCER
COLOUR FASTNESS PERFORMANCE STANDARDS and TECHNICAL NOTES FOR CLOTHING
January 2009

Recipe Evaluation Tests (RE) and Production Tests (PT)

• It is impossible to achieve a high level of performance from poor quality dyes.
• However it is possible to achieve a poor level of performance from high quality dyes if they are not applied correctly.
• Recipe Evaluation Tests check that the dyes themselves are not prone to destruction or irreversible change when subjected to normal wash and wear conditions.
• Suppliers must be able to demonstrate compliance with Recipe Evaluation Tests at first bulk stage. In order to avoid cancellation of orders following failures at first bulk stage, it is
strongly recommended that recipes are evaluated at lab dye stage. However dyers are advised to wait until orders are confirmed before testing in order to reduce costs.
• Dyers who consistently demonstrate an ability to select high quality recipes will be given written dispensation to a) defer recipe evaluation testing to first bulk and b) use existing recipe
and process knowledge to omit recipe evaluation tests that are deemed to be low risk.
• Production Tests check that a dyer has selected good quality dyes and applied them correctly.
• To demonstrate that fabric is production viable in a particular shade, production tests must be done at lab dye stage.
• It is unacceptable to present major colour fastness failures to garment makers and/or Marks and Spencer Technologists at first bulk stage where it is clear to the dyer that the recipe
and/or process is incapable of meeting Marks and Spencer Performance Standards.

General Testing Requirements

• If the published standards are met, customer satisfaction is guaranteed for most product areas. However for certain products, concessions or more stringent standards may be agreed
by M&S technologists - these should be noted on relevant contract documentation.
• All dyers, Printers and Finishers must be made aware that production is for M&S, and also know the product end use.
• All dyes, chemicals and finished articles must conform to relevant legislation, and M&S environmental and chemical safety policies.

• The published Performance Standards relate to products in the finished state, as they go into Marks and Spencer stores :–
o If casual garments are washed in a laundry, they should be tested after wash.
o Tests should be carried out after resination, fixing etc. as these processes can have significant negative effects on performance.
o If components are fused, pleated, or subjected to other heat treatments, they should be tested after these processes.
o For contrast effects, higher standards of colour fastness are required – see Production Tests (PT) on page 5.

• The frequency of colour fastness testing must be agreed at pre-production. It is impossible to issue an all inclusive recommendation, and frequency will be determined by familiarity of
the dyer with M&S standards, the complexity of the product, the method of coloration, and colour in question.
o New suppliers must carry out Production Tests on every batch, unless otherwise agreed by the M&S technologist.
o Established suppliers should carry out Production Tests on each batch, until they can demonstrate that the likelihood of failure is minimal, before reducing the frequency of
testing (likely to be 3-5 batches for pastels, and 5-10 batches for darker shades).
o Better quality dyers will normally carry out internal Quality Control tests on each batch as best practice.
o Continuously dyed production should be tested every 2000 to 3000 metres.
o All re-dyed, topped up, or refinished batches must be tested for Production Tests (and Recipe Evaluation tests as appropriate)

ƒ Digi Eye® digital grading is now recommended for grading test results. Suppliers should request that independent labs use this method for grading M&S merchandise, and should
seriously consider investing in this equipment for their own use

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 Recipe Evaluation (RE) Tests - Production Tests (PT) – must also be done at the lab dye stage
Additional tests to these may be specified by departmental technologists for certain product C – Shade Change S – Staining
C11 and C19 are not necessary for all merchandise but can be requested if considered necessary by the technologist.

C9a C10a C11 C13 C14

C19 Key
C9 Wet C10 Oxidative Hydrolysis Shade change Shade C37 Chlorinated
Code Product Burnt Gas Production
Light Fastness Alkali Perborate bleach of reactive due to hot change due Water for Swimwear
Fumes Tests
Light Fade damage dyes pressing to pleating
C4A
Grade 4 at Standard 4
Washable fast dyed products containing C6
No Test 3-4
RE/001 cellulosics (includes Cotton, Viscose, 4-5 C 4C 4S 5C 5C 4C 4C C7
Suits only Grade 5 at Required On tone
Cupro, Tencel, Lyocell, and Linen) C8
Standard 5 No off tone fade
C5
C4A
Other Fibres And Blends Grade 4 at Standard 4
C6
No Test No Test
RE/002 4-5C 4-5C 5C 5C 4C 4C C7
Washable fast dyed products with no Suits only Grade 5 at Required Required
C8
cellulosic content (see notes above) Standard 5 No off tone fade
C5
Grade 4 at Standard 4 C6
Products labelled No Test No Test No Test No Test C7
RE/003 5C 5C 4C No Test Required
Dry Clean only Suits only Grade 5 at Required Required Required Required C8
Standard 5 No off tone fade C5
No Test No Test No Test No Test No Test No Test No Test
RE/004 Indigo Denim No Test Required No Test Required C8
Required Required Required Required Required Required Required
Grade 4 at Standard 4
Pigment dye and print (including care No Test No Test No Test No Test
RE/005 4-5 C 5C 5C 4C C8
labels) Required Required Required Required
Not required for Care Labels
C4A
No Test No Test No Test C6
RE/006 Sulphur wash down Grade 4 at Standard 4 4-5 C Required 2-3 On tone Required 5C 5C Required 4C C7
C8
C5

C13 C14
C9a C11 C37 Chlorinated
C9 C10 C10a Shade change Shade C19
Wet Alkali Hydrolysis of Water for
Light Fastness Perborate Oxidative bleach damage due to hot change due Burnt Gas Fumes
Light Fade reactive dyes Swimwear
pressing to pleating
There is no need to Reactive dyed Cellulosic and cellulosic blends only (to imitate the effect of 20 washes in oxygen The problem is Certain blue dyes are
report an on- cellulosics bleach-containing detergent.) only evident susceptible to fading in Passing the 100ppm
Pleated
tone/off-tone for and blends with a small, the presence of burnt gas test guarantees
Garments
grades of 4 and only – to The major areas of concern are blacks that fade to grey, navies that fade to blues, known selection fumes during production customer
Only
above imitate the and neutral shades that go badly off-tone. On tone/off tone fading can be difficult of dyes. The dye resulting in patchy fading satisfaction.
Fabrics with
effect of to judge. As guidance, shade changes that are greater than the change due to fibre bond is – provided that robust QC
no cellulosic In addition to
Performance can be customer line optical brightener pick up from a label wash are unacceptable. broken during systems are in place, this For certain shades
content only checking
severely affected drying the first wash/dry should not be an issue in on certain fibres, it
(to imitate the shade change
by: washed Failures can be further assessed by a 20 label wash test in activated bleach- cycle and colour Pressed M&S Stores. is impossible to
effect of on pleating,
a) the wrong product. containing detergent. runs in the Garments Only pass the 100ppm
poorly all other
selection of dye second wash Reputable dye suppliers test. Passing a
dissolved colour
fixing agents. There is no For heavily washed down casual wear or garments that are labelled ‘designed to can advise which dyes to 50ppm test gives a
washing fastness tests
b) poor penetration need to report wash down’, the degree of fade is less important but it should still be on tone. False failures are avoid, but this issue is reasonable degree
detergent) should be
of dye into fibres. an on- sometimes becoming more of confidence that
carried out
tone/off-tone Ecru (natural fibre colour) garments often fail the C10a test. These should be registered significant. It advisable to levels of customer
after pleating.
Whites will always for grades of 4 labelled as ‘use colours care detergent’ and tested for C10 perborate. because of check recipes at lab dye dissatisfaction will
fade off-tone. Grade and above poorly washed stage to prevent delivery be at acceptably
4 represents a pass. There is no need to report an on tone / off tone for grades of 4 and above. off fabric. problems. low levels.
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 Colour Fastness Production Tests (PT) - These tests also required as part of Recipe Evaluation process

Concessions for tests graded by digi eye are shown in brackets in italic type
Additional tests to these may be specified by departmental technologists for certain products C – Shade Change S – Staining

C4a C5
C7
Detergent Wash Dry Cleaning C6 C8
Code Product Type Perspiration
Fastness Must be tested or labelled “Do not dry Water at 37°C Dry Rub Fastness
-see notes
at 50°C clean”
Washable fast dyed:
4C 4S
• 100% Cellulosics and Cellulosic 4C 4S 4C 4S
(DIGI EYE 3.75)
/elastanes (DIGI EYE 3.75) (DIGI EYE 3.75) 4S
PT/001 4C 4S
• 100% Nylon
Contrast effects
• 100% Wool and Wool/elastane Contrast effects Contrast effects Nightwear only
4C 4-5S
• 100% Silk and Silk/elastane 4C 4-5S 4C 4-5S 4-5 S

All other fast dyed product including: 3-4 S 4C 4S 4C 4S

• Polyester (DIGI EYE 3.25) (DIGI EYE 3.75) (DIGI EYE 3.75) 4S
PT/002 • Acrylic 4C 4S
• Acetate and Triacetate Contrast effects Contrast effects Contrast effects Nightwear only
• Synthetics/elastane 4C 4-5S 4C 4-5S 4C 4-5S 4-5 S

4C 4S 4C 4S
(DIGI EYE 3.75) (DIGI EYE 3.75)
PT/003 Dry Clean only No Test Required 4C 4S 4S
Contrast effects Contrast effects
4C 4-5S 4C 4-5S
PT/004 Indigo Denim No Test Required No Test Required No Test Required No Test Required 4S
4S
Pigment dye and print (including care labels) 4C 4S
PT/005 C15 Print Durability additionally required 4C Labels Only 4C 4S (DIGI EYE 3.75)
Nightwear only
(Negligible change or loss of print)
4-5 S
4C 4S 4C 4S 4C 4S
PT/006 Sulphur wash down 4C 4S 4S
(DIGI EYE 3.75) (DIGI EYE 3.75) (DIGI EYE 3.75)

C4a C5 C6 C7 C8
C15 Print Durability
Detergent Wash Fastness @ 50°C Dry Clean Water at 37oC Perspiration Dry Rub Fastness
Pay strong attention to the shade Recipe Evaluation Recipe Evaluation: Water at 37°C, Acid
Product must be checked for Fastness to Poor dry rub fastness is guaranteed to The twin tub test is an
change requirement - notably on pale Testing: Water at Perspiration and Alkali Perspiration to be carried
Dry Cleaning, or labelled as “Do not Dry result in customer complaints. extremely aggressive
to medium nylon based products as 37°C, Acid out (see above).
Clean”. Both the face and back of the fabric test – passing this
these are prone to washing down. Perspiration and Production Test: whichever one of the above
Certain binders used for pigment dyeing should be tested to check for rubbing off virtually guarantees
More stringent standards are set for Alkali Perspiration to three tests delivers the worst result needs to be
and printing are dissolved by dry cleaning onto undergarments and upholstery. customer satisfaction.
contrast effect garments – as a further be carried out. done as a quality control check.
fluid, resulting in major print breakdown Where the best available technology Five consecutive
check, a C26 test may be done by the Exceptions: It is extremely rare that human sweat
and customer complaint. cannot consistently meet a grade 4, a garment ‘label washes’
garment maker, plus a complete Production Testing: is alkaline, but acid perspiration can be broken
“Dry Clean only” is often used as a “hiding concession of 3-4 minimum may be in a UK or European
garment should be ‘label’ washed to Whichever one of the down to the alkaline form. There are certain
place” for technically inferior products. It is agreed by the M&S technologist. design front load
check for cross staining. above three tests product types e.g. linings, sportswear, socks etc,
important to note that these products must For high risk merchandise (e.g. dark domestic washing
The use of cationic fixatives for pale delivers the worst where alkaline perspiration may cause a dye
also pass perspiration, water at 37°C, rub denim, pigment dye, emerised fabrics) machine will give a
shades is not recommended as they result needs to be fastness issue, due to prolonged fabric exposure
fastness, and relevant Recipe Evaluation every individual production batch must good guidance to the
will pick up loose colour from a wash done as a quality to human sweat. In these instances, the alkaline
tests. be tested. durability of the print.
load and discolour the garment. control check. perspiration test should be carried out.

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