March

2023

HELLO
SPRING!
(well, almost)
DARING DENIM
PRETTY in PINK
DOTS & STRIPES
TAROT-INSPIRED
JEWELLERY

HACKS
for EVERY
HAIR TYPE

JODIE
TURNER-SMITH
HOLLYWOOD’S NEWEST FASHION ICON
MARCH 2023

Discover...
78 VOILA!
24 NEWS
Fendi’s first home collection,
Hunter goes goth, the latest
from Wuxly and more.

26 DETAILS
Indigenous elders inspire a
Montreal milliner to add
embroidery to her berets.

27 DNA
Jenia Kim explains how her
Soviet-Korean heritage impacts
her creative process.

28 GET TO KNOW
Brooke Wall is the Canadian
powerhouse behind many of the
red carpet’s most viral moments.

30 JEWELLERY 101
Talismans, lucky charms

PHOTOGRAPHY BY LAWRENCE CORTEZ. STYLING BY CHAD BURTON FOR CADRE ARTIST MANAGEMENT.
and tarot motifs are having a
mystical moment this spring.

32 MY WATCH TOP, $2,320, PANTS, $1,910, JACKET, $3,400, AND EYEWEAR, $610, LOUIS VUITTON.

Nolan Bryant shares the stories

behind his pair of beloved
Cartier timepieces.

34 ASK ANNIKA
Opera gloves are no longer
just for night. Annika Lautens
offers advice on how to work
them 24/7.

36 MERCH
The Barbie effect continues,
racer looks go from track to
trend and boardroom pinstripes
bring preppy style to the streets.
 FENDI BOUTIQUES 888 291 0163 FE N D I .CO M

ROMA
What’s
Inside
CANVAS
44 SHELFIE
A new Boss scent, bold hair
colour, playful press-on nails
and more.

46 REGIMENS
Race-car driver Samantha
Tan on why hair and makeup
matter to her performance.

48 HAIR CARE
Ingrie Williams rounds up
the latest hair hacks for every
annoying challenge.

52 MY MAKEUP
Eyeliner and symbolic

30
shades of red, orange and
turquoise have special
meaning for Kairyn Potts.

54 TEXTURE TALK
Four Canadians chat with
Natasha Boateng about
how locs are central to their PHOTOGRAPHY: PENDANT COURTESY OF SORELLINA; BACKGROUND VIA ISTOCK.

Black identity.
INSPO
58 TREND
Fefe Dobson rocks
the season’s most
daring denim.
68 COVER STORY
Jodie Turner-Smith took a
chance on modelling and
then segued into acting. Her
choices have proven to be
more than worthwhile.
78 SPOTLIGHT On the
Louis Vuitton and Japanese
contemporary artist Yayoi Kusama
Cover
Dress and bag,
come together for a collection that
prices upon request,
captures the spirit of spring. Victoria Beckham.
86 COLLECTING
Regan Vasquez’s platform-shoe
collection elevates foot fun to a
whole new level.
90 Ƅ IT FOREVER
A temptation with till-death-
do-us-part potential.
MCM Toronto
85 Bloor St W

MCM Yorkdale
3401 Dufferin St www.mcmworldwide.com
 EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Bernadette Morra
CREATIVE & FASHION DIRECTOR
George Antonopoulos

FASHION NEWS DIRECTOR DIGITAL DIRECTOR BEAUTY DIRECTOR

Annika Lautens Jennifer Berry Natasha Boateng

MARKET & SOCIAL MEDIA EDITOR DIGITAL WRITER ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR
Ivy Tang Natalie Michie Danielle Campbell (on leave)

PRODUCTION EDITOR COPY EDITORS/PROOFREADERS ACTING ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR

Lindsay Cooper Marjorie Dunham-Landry Leo Tapel
Jane Fielding
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT JUNIOR DESIGNER/PHOTO EDITOR
Sarah Mariotti Kayleen Dicuangco

CONTRIBUTORS Bernicia Boateng, Laurie Brookins, Chad Burton, Karen Clarkson, Alex Cornes, Lawrence Cortez,
Maggie Curwin, Molly Ellison, Nicolas Emas Varone, Jalen Fairclough, Ashley Galang, Royal Gilbert, Bailey Goss,
Judy Gu, Kristjan Hayden, Lauren Knowles, Marcia Lee, Kai Luk-Laughton, Ryan L. McGovern, Joshua Onabowu,
Odessa Paloma Parker, Ellen Reinerstedt, Sabrina Rinaldi, Lucy Tucker, Randi Vasquez, Ingrie Williams,
Michael O Williams, Alice Yamagishi, Clara Young

SPECIAL PROJECTS
Charlotte Herrold

SALES MANAGER, FASHION Deidre Marinelli (deidre.marinelli@stjoseph.com)

PRODUCTION MANAGER Judy Strader

ST. JOSEPH COMMUNICATIONS

CHAIRMAN & CEO Tony Gagliano
VICE-CHAIRMAN John Gagliano
SENIOR VICE-PRESIDENT, CONTENT & CREATIVE Maryam Sanati
SENIOR VICE-PRESIDENT, REVENUE FOR SJC MEDIA James McNab
EXECUTIVE VICE-PRESIDENT, ENTERPRISE OPERATIONS David McGrath
EXECUTIVE VICE-PRESIDENT, SALES Ray D’Antonio
EXECUTIVE VICE-PRESIDENT, SOCIAL & EMERGING PLATFORMS Jacqueline Loch
VICE-PRESIDENT, BRANDED CONTENT & MARKETING Sasha Emmons
VICE-PRESIDENT, DIGITAL SOLUTIONS & BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Jason Maghanoy
VICE-PRESIDENT, PRINT OPERATION Maria Mendes
GENERAL MANAGER, AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT & COMMERCE Michael Gagliano
DIRECTOR, CIRCULATION Lisa Rivers

FA S H I O N M AG A Z I N E 1 5 B E N TO N R OA D, TO R O N TO, O N M 6 M 3 G 2 P H O N E 41 6 - 2 4 8 - 4 8 6 8
M O N T R E A L O F F I C E 3 P L AC E V I L L E M A R I E , S U I T E 4 0 0, M O N T R E A L , Q C H 3 B 2 E 3 P H O N E 5 1 4 - 2 8 4 - 2 5 5 2 FA X 5 1 4 - 2 8 4 - 4 4 9 2
FA S H I O N M A G A Z I N E M A R C H 2 0 2 3 · V O L U M E 5 8 I S S U E 2 · P R I N T I N G : S T. J O S E P H P R I N T I N G · D AT E O F I S S U E : F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3
SUBSCRIP TION INQUIRIES: 8 3 3-6 32-08 3 3

FASH I ON M AG A ZI NE AN NUA L SUBSCR I P T I ON PR I CE: $ 2 9.9 9 P LUS HST (7 I SSUES, PUB LI SHED W I NTER , M ARCH , APR I L , SU M M ER , SEP TEM B ER , OCTOB ER AN D NOVEM B ER). S I NG LE
C O P I E S : $ 7. 9 9 . U N I T E D S TAT E S , O N E Y E A R : $ 6 0 . A L L O T H E R C O U N T R I E S : $ 1 0 0 . T O C H A N G E Y O U R S U B S C R I P T I O N A D D R E S S , P L E A S E S E N D Y O U R N E W A N D O L D A D D R E S S E S
T O : S U B S C R I P T I O N D E P A R T M E N T, F A S H I O N M A G A Z I N E , P. O . B O X 1 1 9 , S T N . M A I N , A L L I S T O N , O N L 9 R 1 T 9 , AT L E A S T S I X W E E K S I N A D V A N C E . T H E P U B L I S H E R A C C E P T S N O
R E S P O N S I B I L I T Y F O R A D V E R T I S E R C L A I M S O R U N S O L I C I T E D M A N U S C R I P T S , T R A N S P A R E N C I E S O R O T H E R M AT E R I A L S . N O P A R T O F T H I S M A G A Z I N E M AY B E R E P R O D U C E D
I N A N Y F O R M W I T H O U T T H E W R I T T E N P E R M I S S I O N O F T H E P U B L I S H E R . C O P Y R I G H T 2 0 2 3 S T. J O S E P H M E D I A I N C . A L L R I G H T S R E S E R V E D . W E A C K N O W L E D G E T H E F I N A N C I A L
S U P P O R T O F T H E G O V E R N M E N T O F C A N A D A . C I R C U L AT I O N A U D I T E D B Y A L L I A N C E F O R A U D I T E D M E D I A . P U B L I C AT I O N S M A I L A G R E E M E N T N O . 4 2 4 9 4 5 1 2 . R E T U R N U N D E L I V E R A B L E
C A N A D I A N A D D R E S S E S T O P. O . B O X 1 1 9 , S T N . M A I N , A L L I S T O N , O N L 9 R 1 T 9 . F A S H I O N M A G A Z I N E I S D I S T R I B U T E D B Y C O M A G M A R K E T I N G G R O U P. I S S N 1 4 9 6 - 5 7 8 X .

For every ton of paper used on FASHION’s behalf,

St. Joseph Communications will contribute to the
planting of a tree through GrandTrees.
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TO PLUMPER
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with
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New Hydra-Essentiel [HA2]

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*Consumer test - Day cream 107 women after 60 seconds - Night cream
CLARINS.COM 110 women after 60 seconds.
FASHION EDITOR'S LETTER

IF ANYONE HAS BEEN ABLE to demon-

strate the power of clothing, it’s our cover star,
Brit actor Jodie Turner-Smith. Her career was
FOLFNLQJDORQJMXVWQHDǟHU3KDUUHOO:LOOLDPV
during a chance meeting, suggested she give
modelling a try. That move led her to acting,
and roles in the Anne Boleyn miniseries and
OPVQueen & Slim and White Noise followed.
But as fashion news director Annika Lautens
ZULWHVLQŝ6RQLF%ORRPŞSDJH ʛLWZDVWKH
daring and dazzling looks Turner-Smith served
up last August at the Venice International
Film Festival that grabbed global headlines.
From her bedazzled black Gucci to her curve-
cruising denim Balmain to her sheer organza
Casablanca, Turner-Smith had cemented her
status as a red-carpet icon by the end of the
festival. The stylists who helped her dress
for the event were the Los Angeles team of
:D\PDQ0LFDKWKRXJKZHOHDUQHGDWRXU
cover shoot in London that she has no short-
age of her own opinions. The enthusiasm with
which Turner-Smith rocked the most out-there
ORRNVřLQFOXGLQJDEXEEOHIULQJHG*XFFLKHDG-
SLHFHřZDVFOHDUIURPWKHUVWVKXWWHUFOLFN
One of the biggest forces behind today’s
viral red-carpet moments is a Canadian named
%URRNH:DOO%RUQLQ7RURQWRDQGUDLVHGLQ
9DQFRXYHU:DOOPRYHGWR(QJODQGEHIRUHVHW-
tling in New York, where she helped grow the career of include a look at one watch lover’s relationship with their
KDLUOHJHQG2ULEH7KDWZDVKHUUVWVWHSWRZDUGHYHQWX- IDYRXULWHWLPHSLHFH)RUWKHUVW0\:DWFKSDJHʖʕGlobe
DOO\FUHDWLQJ7KH:DOO*URXSDQDJHQF\WKDWKDVRƫFHVLQ and Mail columnist Nolan Bryant details his love for two
1HZ<RUN/RQGRQ/RV$QJHOHVDQG3DULVDQGUHSUHVHQWV very special Cartiers, one of which belonged to his late friend,

FOR CADRE ARTIST MANAGEMENT. MAKEUP, SABRINA RINALDI FOR P1M.CA. BLAZER AND PANTS, PRICES UPON
VRPHRIWKHPRVWLQXHQWLDOKDLUVW\OLVWVPDNHXSDUWLVWVDQG society hairdresser Robert Gage.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY LAWRENCE CORTEZ. STYLING BY GEORGE ANTONOPOULOS. HAIR, KRISTJAN HAYDEN

manicurists. She speaks to Lautens about what propelled 2IFRXUVH\RXśOOVWLOOQGVRPHRI\RXUDQGP\IDYRXULWH
KHUVXFFHVVLQŝ*HWWR.QRZŞSDJHʕʛ FROXPQVLQWKHVHSDJHV:KLOH,GRQśWKDYHVXSHUFXUO\KDLU
:HKDYHWKUHHQHZFROXPQVGHEXWLQJWKLVLVVXH,Q$VN ,KDYHOHDUQHGVRPXFKIURPUHDGLQJ7H[WXUH7DONSDJHʘʗ

REQUEST, SHOES, $1,790, AND NECKLACE, $1,930, LOUIS VUITTON. RINGS, MORRA’S OWN.
$QQLNDSDJHʖʗ/DXWHQVVSRWOLJKWVRQHRIWKHVHDVRQśV since it was created by beauty director Natasha Boateng back
must-have pieces and breaks down ways to wear it. First LQʕʓʕʓ,QWKLVLVVXHVKHVSHDNVWRIRXU&DQDGLDQVDERXW
on her agenda is a key accessory for spring: opera gloves. their locs (which, I discovered, should never be referred to
,Q'1$SDJHʕʚZHGLYHLQWR-HQLD.LPśV6RYLHW.RUHDQ DVŝGUHDGVŞRUŝGUHDGORFNVŞ$QG,DPDOZD\VIDVFLQDWHG
background and how it melds with her life in Tashkent, E\WKHFROOHFWRUVZHSUROHřIRXUIRRWWDOOSODWIRUPVKRH
Uzbekistan, to inspire her label, J.Kim. Stay tuned for DGGLFW5HJDQ9DVTXH]LQFOXGHGŝ/Rǟ\/LYLQJŞSDJHʛ 
more such explorations on how heritage impacts creativity +HUSRVLWLYLW\LVDEVROXWHO\LQIHFWLRXVřOHWśVKRSHWKDWthat’s
in future issues. And our regular watch coverage will now DYLUXVWKDWVSUHDGV

Bernadette Morra, Editor-in-Chief

@bernadettemorra
letters@fashionmagazine.com

20 MARCH 2023
 PEOPLE • PIECES • PERSPECTIVES

HOOP
TEXT BY ANNIKA LAUTENS. PHOTOGRAPHY VIA IMAXTREE.COM. EARRINGS, $990, TOM FORD.

DREAMS
Are your ears burning? You’d think
Bella Hadid’s certainly would be,
given the surreal size of these
hoops from Tom Ford’s Spring
2023 collection. But hidden
behind these enormous earrings
are hooks that rest on the top of
your ears to reduce the impact of
the weight. Their base is made
from soft polymer and sequins,
though, so despite the fact they’re
the size of a croissant, they’re as
light as puff pastry. Music to
our ears, indeed.
VOILA! NEWS

A Fendi Affair
Fb
URPWKHFUHDWLYHJHQLXVRI6LOYLD9HQWXULQL)HQGLFRPHV)HQGLśVUVWHYHUFROOHFWLRQ
of home decor and lifestyle accessories. Gather your loved ones for an evening of
luxe dining with neutral homeware items enlivened by vibrant yellows, powdery
pinks, leafy greens and reimagined Roman motifs in galvanic gold. Then release your
inner competitive spirit and elevate family game nights with the crème de la crème of table
JDPHVřIURPEDFNJDPPRQWRGRPLQRHVřIXOORI)HQGLGHVLJQ'1$

24 MARCH 2023
 NEWS VOILA!

PURPLE RAIN
If you’re looking to embrace a
new hue (or a new you!) this
year, may we suggest pastel
purple, as seen here on Wuxly’s
newest outerwear offering, the
TEXT BY LAUREN KNOWLES. PHOTOGRAPHY: (THIS PAGE) WUXLY COURTESY OF WUXLY; HUNTER COURTESY OF COMME DES GARÇONS;

“Riverside Trench”? Besides

being a lesson in dopamine
dressing, the Canadian brand’s
rain jacket is made from post-
consumer plastic bottles and
promises to keep you dry well Dark and Stormy
into the spring season. Expect Instead of running from the rain this spring, embrace it with the
to be singing Taylor Swift’s new collaboration between Kei Ninomiya and Hunter. In honour of
“Lavender Haze” in no time. the Noir Kei Ninomiya Spring 2023 collection, the Japanese designer
(and protégé of Comme des Garçons’s Rei Kawakubo) gave a goth
OLIVE VIA INSTAGRAM/@THEBIONICBABE; (OPPOSITE PAGE) FENDI COURTESY OF FENDI.

transformation to the British brand by dousing its signature wellies in

black and accenting them with BDSM-inspired chains. These boots
are perfect for anyone looking to participate in the goth-aissance; we
won’t blame you if you don’t save them for a rainy day.

IO N ICBAB E
EB
TH
:@

Fusing functionality with fashion, TikTok’s Laiken Olive (@thebionicbabe) is the multi-
K H OT TA K E

hyphenate amputee going viral for their prosthetic-arm artwork and eclectic style.
Whether they’re pairing their Strawberry Shortcake cosplay with a pink-frosted-cake-
inspired bionic-arm cover or styling pre-loved clothing with matching arm covers in
their Second Hand Fashion series (pun intended, they assure their 291K followers!),
creativity and humour abound on this TikToker’s profile—but not without important
O
KT

commentary and education on limb-difference awareness woven throughout.

I

MARCH 2023 25
VOILA! DETAILS
Thread
Counts
Heirloom Hats founder
Samantha-Tara Mainville on the
emotive energy of embroidery.
By ODESSA PALOMA PARKER
NORTHERN EXPOSURE When she first
launched her millinery brand, Heirloom Hats, in
2015, Montreal’s Samantha-Tara Mainville was
also working as a pharmacy assistant—a job
she’d held for over a decade. Throughout this
experience, she’d often travel to remote
locales to provide medical care, and it was
during a trip to a Cree community called
Mistissini that Mainville picked up a creative
skill during her downtime. “I learned how to
embroider at a community centre with local
elders,” she says, adding that “when it’s –50º
outdoors, you’re looking for activities to do
inside.” But from this wintry-isolation activity,
Les Madeleines—Mainville’s collection of one-
off embroidered berets—was born. Each
design finds its graceful form on a head-
shaped wooden hat block, dozens of which
are on display in the brand’s peppy boutique
in Montreal’s Mile-Ex neighbourhood.
IT’S JUST AN EXPRESSION Mainville says it
took time to “take this medium and figure out
how [she] would use it,” adding that she wanted
to ensure that her handiwork wasn’t derivative
of, or appropriating, Indigenous designs.
In addition to being a way for the designer to
add bright pops to her hat repertoire (“My lan-
guage is colour,” she notes), Les Madeleines is
a barometer for the #currentmood. “While I was
making the first pieces, I was pondering how I
was feeling,” she recalls. “It was during Trump’s
26 MARCH 2023
run for the presidency, and everything was kind
of negative.” The name of the collection is
derived from the French expression “pleurer
comme une madeleine,” which means “to cry
like Mary Magdalene.” Mainville says the sorrow-
ful moniker sprang from “the state of things and
the disbelief people had about Trump becoming
president; it just felt like gloom.” But the latest
PHOTOGRAPHY: MAIN BY MARIE-HELENE GAGNÉ; MAINVILLE BY PASCAL FERRARIS.
batches of Les Madeleines are decidedly more
upbeat, she says, pointing to cheerful motifs
like stars and flowers.
FINDING HERSELF IN STITCHES “My starting DESIGNER
point is colour,” Mainville divulges about how she Samantha-Tara
crafts her characters from a cache of vintage Mainville
embroidery threads. “I group the colours together (Heirloom Hats)
and pick four or five per hat. The colours ‘speak’ HOME BASE
to me and are translated in the faces.” Montreal
After a beret is hand-blocked to give it its ITEMS
sculptural shape and the 24-hour drying period One-of-a-kind
is complete, it takes Mainville a day to finish the hand-blocked
embroidery. The pieces are sold with an elastic and hand-embroid-
so wearers can position them anywhere on their ered berets
head with confidence. „

Jenia Kim
J.Kim Spring 2023
The Koryo-saram Connection
Jenia Kim breaks down how her family ties impact her designs.
Ab
contemporary spin on folk
PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF JENIA KIM; KIM BY SASHA MUNAEV.
costumes envisioned from her
Soviet-Korean background is
the defining idea behind designer
Jenia Kim’s brand, J.Kim. “I imagine
that when Koreans arrived in
Uzbekistan, they might have had a
chance to create such costumes but
only had Uzbek fabrics at hand,”
writes Kim in a press kit, referring to
a migration that happened between
WKHODWHʔ WKDQGHDUO\ʕʓWKFHQWXULHV
And while this wasn’t the case for her
PEARLY KINGS & QUEENS
“While they’re not directly part of my
heritage, England’s ‘Pearlies’—people
who wear clothes with pearl buttons to
support charitable causes—inspire me as
a way to give noble purpose to clothing.”
UZBEK STREET STYLE
“Women in Uzbekistan
dress to impress. They
make every outfit a sight to
behold, layering as many
cuts, patterns, colours and
materials as possible.”
By ANNIKA LAUTENS
Korean grandparents, whose exact
date of arrival is still unknown, the
Tashkent-based talent has made it her
personal mission to reimagine this his-
tory through her work.
.LP LV RQH RI ʘʓʓʓʓʓ .RU\R
sarams, a group of Korean immigrants
who live in former Soviet Union states.
“The Korean is something innate that
I have in my DNA, and the Uzbek is
something I learned,” she shares. As
such, every collection Kim has worked
RQVLQFHODXQFKLQJ-.LPLQʕʓʔʗKDV
DNA VOILA!
TRADITIONAL CRAFTS
“These artisans create art for art’s sake, not
to make a living. I can’t help thinking that
in today’s automated world, the soul is lost
when the process is mechanized.”
TASHKENT MARKETS
“Knots are a major visual reference in my
work, so I love seeing the way store owners
tie large bundles of goods. I’m also inspired
by Soviet-era clothing and people-watching.
Everybody there is a character.”
been dedicated to exploring her
unusual heritage. The result is a fash-
ionable fusion of two opposing visual
languages expertly blended in street-
wear silhouettes with artisanal touches,
which can be seen on It girls like Kylie
Jenner and Spanish singer Rosalía.
But with such a rich history to pull
from, how does Kim curate this under-
represented culture? Here, she takes
us inside her inspiration and spotlights
WKHJXUHVZKRKDYHVKDSHGKHUVHQVH
of style. „
MARCH 2023 27
VOILA! PROFILE

K N OW
TO
T
GE

Brooke
Wall
Trust the founder and CEO of The Wall
Group to know the secret to a viral red-carpet
moment. After all, Brooke Wall represents the
artists responsible for putting Florence Pugh
in her “revenge dress” for the 2022 Venice
International Film Festival and for Kristen
Stewart wearing shorts to the 2022 Oscars.
Below, the Canadian-born creative talks about
her roster of international hair and makeup
artists and stylists and how Vancouver trained
her eye to see beauty everywhere.

CONGRATULATIONS ON WINNING THE VANGUARD

AWARD AT LAST YEAR’S CANADIAN ARTS & FASHION
AWARDS [CAFA]! WHAT DOES THIS ACHIEVEMENT
MEAN TO YOU? “It means a lot. I’m Canadian, so being
recognized in my place of birth and homeland is such
an honour.”
LET’S START AT THE BEGINNING. YOU WERE BORN IN
TORONTO AND RAISED IN VANCOUVER, AND NOW
YOU LIVE IN NEW YORK. HOW HAVE THOSE TWO
CANADIAN CITIES INFLUENCED YOUR FASHION AND
BEAUTY JOURNEY? “I’ve always loved pretty things,
whether they’re in nature, fashion or beauty. And when
\RXśUHVXUURXQGHGE\EHDXW\řOLNH,ZDVJURZLQJXSLQ
%ULWLVK&ROXPELDř\RXUH\HEHFRPHVYHU\GHYHORSHGŞ
YOU STARTED YOUR CAREER WORKING WITH
FAMOUS HAIRSTYLISTS LIKE ORIBE CANALES AND
JOHN FRIEDA. WHAT SPARKED THE IDEA FOR THE
WALL GROUP? “I saw a demand for another level of
representation for that type of talent. There needed to
be more people surrounding these artists with a vision
of how far they could go. The most famous hair and
PDNHXSVW\OLVWVZHUHUHSUHVHQWHGE\SKRWRDJHQFLHVRU
something similar at the time. But they required legal
representation and good business people around them to
better understand the arc of their careers if they wanted
to develop their own beauty lines. And those resources
GLGQśWH[LVWLQWKHśʓVŞ
DID YOU ANTICIPATE HOW BIG THE STYLING, HAIR
AND MAKEUP INDUSTRY WOULD BECOME? “I did,
EHFDXVHZKHQ,VWDUWHGZRUNLQJZLWKSHRSOHOLNH-RKQ
Frieda, Oribe Canales, Laura Mercier and Kevyn Aucoin,
WKHUHZRXOGEHOLNHʕʘGLƨHUHQWMREVDYDLODEOHEXWYHU\
few individuals who could perform at such a high level.
So I could see that they would become a more valuable
commodity in the future.”
HOW DO YOU DECIDE WHICH ARTISTS TO TAKE
ON, AND HAVE THE CRITERIA CHANGED SINCE
2000, WHEN YOU FOUNDED THE WALL GROUP?

28 MARCH 2023

PHOTOGRAPHY: MAIN COURTESY OF BROOKE WALL; PUGH AND STEWART VIA GETTY.
“They have changed slightly with the advent of social
media. You must now be good in front of the camera and
draw an audience. But certain things haven’t changed.
When we interview artists, we’re looking at their ability
DQGSHUVRQDOLW\řZKHUHGLGWKH\OHDUQWKHLUFUDǟKDYH
they studied the history of beauty and can they create
ORRNVIURPGLƨHUHQWJHQUHV"7KHOLVWJRHVRQŞ
HAS SOCIAL MEDIA CHANGED THE WAY THESE
CREATIVES APPROACH THEIR PROFESSION? “I
don’t think it’s changed this; there’s just more pressure
to perform, because, through social media, more people
will see their work. Everyone wants to develop their
brand, so they’re more cognizant of consistency and
ZKLFKORRNVZLOOEHFRPHUHFRJQL]DEOHŞ
SO WHAT SEPARATES A GOOD RED-CARPET LOOK
FROM A GREAT ONE? “It’s almost like a perfect storm.
PROFILE VOILA!
ar t
Kristen Stew
Florence Pugh
>/DXJKV@0DQ\GLƨHUHQWHOHPHQWVKDYHWRFRPHWRJHWKHU
for it to be a great moment. Our stylists are keenly aware
of who they’re working with and the story that that indi-
vidual needs to tell on the red carpet. If you can do that
consistently, you can win frequently. Just don’t ask me to
SLFNIDYRXULWHVŞ
YOU WORE ERDEM TO THE CAFA AWARDS CERE-
MONY. HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR STYLE
WHEN YOU’RE NOT ON A RED CARPET? “I would
describe my style as casual formal with a twist of
&DQDGLDQřEHFDXVH,GRORYHDDQQHOVKLUW>/DXJKV@,
think that when you’re in the industry and you deal with
red carpets and events daily, you don’t have an interest in
VSHQGLQJWLPHGLJJLQJWKURXJKDPLOOLRQGLƨHUHQWORRNV
You know who you are, what you’re comfortable with and
KRZWRSUHVHQWWKHEHVWYHUVLRQRI\RXUVHOIŞ„
MARCH 2023 29
VOILA! MASTER CLASS

By CLARA YOUNG

18 karat gold, mother-

of-pearl, colour-change
garnet, sapphire and
diamond necklace,
MYSTICISM

$26,700, Sorellina

Gold plated
brass necklace,
$80, BaubleBar

T
he first sign that something was up happened to me a week
ago, when a close friend of mine, let’s call him Jean, cornered
J E W E L L E RY 101

me early on at a party, well before the cocktails had kicked

18 karat yellow and white gold,
diamond, mother-of-pearl and
onyx earrings, $27,100, Dior
in, and whispered, “I just had my cards read.”
My eyebrows must have moonshot. Jean is no New Ager;
he’s an Ivy League-educated neurologist and rigorously rational in every
decision he makes. “You had a tarot card reading?”
He cringed. “I know, I know… But she was, well, so incredibly spot-on!”
And on the strength of that spot-on-ness, Jean is leaving his well-paid
job and fabulous Paris apartment and moving to Ohio.
Ohio. With a woman he only met two months ago.
“Well, why not?” I thought. People make crazy choices all the time, for
even crazier reasons. Me, for example. Too often, in fact. And too embar-
rassing to get into here.
The next morning, a copy of The Tarot of Leonora Carrington (Fulgur
Press) showed up in my mailbox. Just the book—not wrapped, not in
an envelope and without an accompanying letter or card, just a pink
Post-it fixed to the page on which Carrington’s phantasmagorical painting
of the sun tarot card had been reproduced. Carrington (1917–2011), a
celebrated British-Mexican painter and novelist, a lover of Max Ernst, an
asylum inmate, an early proponent of women’s liberation and the last of
the surrealists, painted her tarot deck in the 1950s but kept it a secret. It
was only discovered about five years ago. The images are astonishingly
beautiful. But where did the book come from?
I called Jean. He swore it wasn’t from him. But he did find its sudden
appearance portentous.

30 MARCH 2023
 MASTER CLASS VOILA!

Then, that afternoon, walking in the Marais, lucky charms, icons, miracle medallions, worry
I ducked into Dover Street Little Market to beads—humans have always associated
get out of a sudden downpour and found adornment with fate and divination.
myself face to face with a display of “magical SO, LET’S GET SOME ON Tarot-inspired
cards” and zines from Fiddler’s Green (“Art & works abound. At the head of the pack is
Magic for Tea-Drinking Anarchists, Convivial the aforementioned Sorellina, a jewellery
Conjurors & Closeted Optimists”). The zines design house founded by sisters Nicole and
had titles like “Exploding the Tangerine: A Shy Kim Carosella in NYC. Their colourful tarot
Person’s Guide to Battle Magic” and “The pendants with diamonds are among their hot-
Sterling silver and white
Riddle of the Sphinx: The Artist’s Path and rhodium plated necklace,
test—and most expensive—items. For those,
the Secrets of Immortality.” And perusing them $390, Tom Wood like myself, less fortunate (or less fortuned),
closely was, of all people, Violaine, an old friend websites like Etsy have more affordable ver-
whom I hadn’t seen in years. Like Jean, Violaine sions. A couple of my favourites are the tarot
is a scientist, steadfastly sensible and—judging amulets by Selenichast and The Empress Tarot
by the stunning rectangular pendant swinging Card by BaubleBar—they’re lovely to look at
from her neck, on which a yellow-gold dog and pack just as much cartomancy power
and a wolf howled at a gold, sapphire and but at 1/100th of the price. Just as powerful:
black-diamond moon in a mother-of-pearl Sterling Forever’s very reasonably priced evil-
sky—a recent convert to the power of tarot. eye amulet necklace in 14-karat gold.
“It’s La Luna, the moon card, from Sorellina,” Montreal label Sofia Zakia’s High Priestess
she said, blushing. “You see the little gold lob- Tarot Card Necklace features engraved tiles
ster? Coming out of the water? It symbolizes mixing original drawings by designer Sofia
the early stages of unfolding consciousness.” Ajram with classical decks by Jean Francois
Again, my brows launched moonward. Violaine Alliette and Brian Williams. The reverse side
laughed. “It was a gift and I love it; it’s sup- Gold plated brass, of each card portrays the sun and waxing and
abalone and cubic zirconia
posed to help guide me on my journey,” she waning moons. They are pricier than those
necklace, $145, Tai
said, air quoting the last word. “And I need all mentioned in the last paragraph but still well
the help I can get.” within the range of “reasonable.” Besides, as
Who doesn’t? The world is decidedly it says on the website, the High Priestess
difficult to fathom at the best of times, but “encourages wisdom, intuition, and a con-
especially these days, right? Misinformed, nection to a Higher Power which guards the
disinformed, over-informed, wary, worried, unconscious. She is a kind, merciful teacher,
wearied—it’s no wonder people like Jean and here to connect you with your intuition and
Violaine are looking for a little more magic in Higher Self to lead you on the journey of your
their lives. For a world filled with secret con- life.” That stuff doesn’t come cheap.
nections and resonances. A world that is, in If money is less of an object, go big.
the words of Max Weber—the sociologist who Christian Dior famously consulted tarot
coined the term “disenchantment” (German: cards before each runway show, and the
Entzauberung) to describe the defining char- cards continue to inspire the house. Dior
acter of our modern, secular and bureaucratic creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri has been
14 karat gold necklace,
society—“a great enchanted garden.” $1,090, Sofia Zakia
incorporating tarot into her creations since
And, it turns out, believing in the non-rational her first collection for Spring 2017. Meanwhile,
isn’t always non-rational. Luck-enhancing Victoire de Castellane for Dior Joaillerie has
superstitions have been shown to relieve long drawn inspiration from astrology for many
anxieties about the unknown. They give people of her designs and especially from the divina-
a sense of control and empowerment. They improve performance and tory charms so dear to the late couturier himself, especially his lucky
increase self-confidence—think of the rituals you see professional star, golden sun and shining crescent moon. The eight-pointed wind
athletes and actors go through. Just saying “Break a leg,” crossing one’s rose, part of the Rose des Vents haute-joaillerie collection, does triple
fingers or knocking on wood can apparently increase your motor dexter- protection duty for its bearer by combining three of Monsieur Dior’s
ity, strengthen your memory or help you master upcoming tasks—in favourite lucky charms: the number eight, the rose and the star. The
short, give you that extra little magic boost you need. fact that his luck ran out when he died suddenly at age 52 of a heart
This explains why esoterica is everywhere—and nowhere more so attack might call into doubt the efficacy of those charms, but I’ll leave
than in the jewellery world. Which makes perfect sense: talismans, that to you to judge.

MARCH 2023 31
VOILA! MY WATCH

Two
Timing
Nolan Bryant, society
columnist for The Globe and
Mail, discusses his treasured
pair of timepieces.
As told to LAURIE BROOKINS

W
hen people think about collecting watches,
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WKHSLHFHHYHU\WLPH,SODFHLWRQP\ZULVW
PHOTOGRAPHY: (THIS PAGE) COURTESY OF NOLAN BRYANT.

Love at First Sight
Nolan Bryant’s long-coveted watches, the
Cartier Vendôme (left) and Tank Louis Cartier
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\RXśUHDPDQZKRORYHVFODVVLFVW\OHDQG\RXGRQśWKDYHWKDW

32 MARCH 2023
 MY WATCH VOILA!

many jewellery pieces to wear, a watch can elevate your look.
The piece I’d been seeking was in his collection. The moment
I put it on, I knew it was the exact watch I’d been thinking
about all those years. It also has a gold deployant buckle, which
LVWKHPRVWZRQGHUIXOLQYHQWLRQř\RXFDQVOLSWKHZDWFKRQ
DQGRƨRUDGMXVWLWVVL]HZLWKRXWIXOO\XQIDVWHQLQJWKHVWUDS
You have to pay a bit extra for it, but you’ll never regret it.
)URPWKHUVWPRPHQW,PHW5REHUW,DGPLUHGKLV&DUWLHU
D\HOORZJROG9HQG³PHDOVRIURPWKHʔʚʓV+HZDVDYHU\
special person and had a remarkable career travelling around
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and had a view of the world that I connected with, and he
was excited by a young person who cared about the past and
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LVODQGDQG,ZRXOGSLFNLWXSDQGDGPLUHLW+LV&DUWLHU
Vendôme was an unusual watch: an automatic with a round
stepped case, a Paris dial and a sweeping second hand, which
is rarely seen in that style. But he was an unusual person, so
LWVHHPHGWWLQJ$ǟHU,śGERXJKWP\7DQNKHVDLGŝ1RZ
you have your Tank, and then you’ll have mine one day, too.”
I considered him both a close friend and a mentor, and he
VDLGLWLQMXVWWKLVORYHO\ZD\$QGWKHQLQʕʓʔʚ5REHUWGLHG
very suddenly of a massive heart attack.
I later reached out to the person who was handling his
estate and mentioned that he’d said I could have his watch.
8QIRUWXQDWHO\5REHUWZDVQRWRQHIRUHVWDWHSODQQLQJDQG
that’s when I learned the watch was going to auction with
many of his other possessions the following week. It was too
late to pull it, of course, and I had to scramble a little, but I
was successful in acquiring it at that auction.
Today, these two watches are part of my everyday life. My
Tank is currently on a glossy-black alligator strap, though it’s
also been on dark-green and ruddy-brown crocodile straps. I
KDYHDOOP\VWUDSVPDGHDW6FDUOHWWD3DULVUPWKDWVSHFLDOL]HV
LQZRQGHUIXOFRORXUVDQGEHDXWLIXOOHDWKHUV$QGEHFDXVH,
wear a suit or a tuxedo for work most evenings, both watches
are perfect for that. Ultimately, two feels like enough; I’m their
guardian, and I like to have them with me because they’re so
special to me. I never tire of looking at them. „

Four Ultra-Classic Timepieces

to Put on Your Wish List
Seeking a timeless watch? This quartet blends precision with eternally elegant details.

BREGUET CARTIER GRAND SEIKO PATEK PHILIPPE

The self-winding Classique
Calendrier ($51,900, at
breguet.com) by Breguet
highlights the day, date and
phases and age of the moon
above an off-centre chapter
ring on a hand-engraved dial
in a 39-millimetre case of
18-karat red gold.
The latest Tank Louis Cartier
($16,400, at Cartier, Toronto)
has been updated with a
larger rose-gold case, measur-
ing 33.7 millimetres by 25.5
millimetres, a graphic dial treat-
ment in grey with golden-finish
steel hands and a signature
sapphire cabochon crown.
From Grand Seiko’s aptly
named Elegance Collection, the
three-hand SBGW283 (price
upon request, at grand-seiko.
com) showcases a pale-blue
dial inspired by the sky above
Japan’s Mount Iwate in the early
days of summer and is housed
in a 37.3-millimetre steel case.
The newest Twenty~4
(price upon request, at patek.
com) from Patek Philippe
features an olive-green sun-
burst dial under gold applied
numerals in a stainless-steel
case that’s embellished
with 160 diamonds
totalling .77 carats.

MARCH 2023 33
VOILA! ASK ANNIKA

GLOVES ARE
ALL OVER THE
RUNWAYS, RED
CARPETS AND I CONFESS THAT I’M A FORMER GLOVES HATER. Every mor-
SOCIAL MEDIA, ning before school, my mother would beg and plead with me to put them
BUT HOW DO YOU on, and every morning, I’d meet her with a resounding “No!” It took
\HDUVRIP\QJHUVYHUJLQJRQEHLQJIURVWELWWHQEHIRUH,JDYHLQDQGUHDO-
WEAR THEM IRL? ized she might be onto something.
Fast-forward a few years (OK, more than a few!) and long gloves have
KDGDJURZQXSPDNHRYHU'HPQDUVWGUHDPHGXSPLWWPDQLDDWWKH
9HWHPHQWV)DOOʕʓʔʛVKRZEHIRUHPDNLQJWKHDFFHVVRU\DPDLQVWD\DW
%DOHQFLDJDZKHUHKHśVEHHQWKHFUHDWLYHGLUHFWRUVLQFHʕʓʔʘ+HZRUNHG

Glove IRUERWKEUDQGVXQWLOʕʓʔ7ZR\HDUVODWHUWKHSDQGHPLFSURPRWHG

JORYHVřDOEHLWODWH[QRWOHDWKHURQHVřDVSHUVRQDOSURWHFWLYHHTXLSPHQW
which sparked a brightly-coloured-hand-covering trend on the runways
WKDWZDVNQRZQDVŝVXUJLFDOJORYHFRXWXUHŞ$QGVRRQDǟHUBridgerton

Affair
In a new column,
broke the internet and the renaissance of Regency-era looks commenced.
But despite the countless celebs (Kim Kardashian, Dua Lipa, Lizzo,
etc.) who have since rocked gloves on the red carpet and the designer
brands (Chanel, Dior, Louis Vuitton Men’s, etc.) that have promoted
them on the runway, it’s taken a while for the general public to embrace
fashion news director the accessory as a fashion statement. Why? Admittedly, this is a hard
ORRNWRSXOORƨ:KHQLWśVGRQHZHOO\RXORRNOLNHDFKDUDFWHUIURP
Annika Lautens solves
Euphoria, but when it’s done wrong, you look like a discount debutante.
your clothing conundrums 6RIRUDQ\RQHORRNLQJWRDYRLGDPDMRUIDVKLRQIDX[SDV,śYHEURNHQ
and suggests a few styling GRZQKRZWRPDNHWKLVRSHUDDFFHVVRU\PRUHDFFHVVLEOH7UXVWPH\RXř
tricks along the way. OLNHP\IRUPHUDQGVWXEERUQVHOIřZLOOWKDQNPHODWHU

34 MARCH 2023

SHORT SUPPLY
I love a good short sleeve, but since
I live in Canada, most of my arm-
exposing clothing hibernates until
June. So, to get the most out of your
closet, marry one of your pieces
with a pair of neutral long gloves.
You’ll be warm enough to survive
the early days of spring but cool
enough (pun intended!) to blend
in with the chicest of crowds.
Get your glove game on with these playful picks.
(OPPOSITE PAGE) MAIN BY BJARNE X TAKATA/VIA TRUNK ARCHIVE.
PHOTOGRAPHY: (THIS PAGE) STREET STYLE VIA IMAXTREE.COM;
Dries Van Noten at
Ssense, $410
COLD SHOULDER
Does anything ever truly go out
of style? Not according to Gen Z
TikTok creators who are bringing
<ʕ.DQGʕʓʔʓWUHQGVEDFNWROLIH
If it helps, think of over-the-elbow
opera gloves worn with sleeveless tops
DVʕʓʕʖśVYHUVLRQRIWKHFROGVKRXOGHU
FXWRXWřMXVWPRUHUHQHG%RQXV
points if your arm accoutrements
match the rest of your ensemble.
ARM CANDY
Collina Strada, Simone Rocha at
$175 Net-a-Porter, $1,120
ASK ANNIKA VOILA!
COLOUR POP
I know how easy it is to wear
only black (hello, I work in the
fashion industry!), but to be
honest, it’s a little basic. So,
if you’d like to elevate your
midnight-hour attire, try a pop
of colour. I recommend choosing
a warmer hue, like pink, red
or orange, to add some oomph
WR\RXURXWW „
Uncuffed Leather,
$265
MARCH 2023 35
VOILA! MERCH

STYLE
TIP
Whether new
or vintage, a great
racer jacket can
make an outfit with
minimal effort.

On
Your
Mark
Get up to speed with
fashion’s latest obsession.
 MERCH VOILA!
Dior, $1,085

House of Sunny,

Louis Vuitton Men’s

$340

TAG Heuer,
$8,800 Stella McCartney,
$3,745

Theophilio,
$1,675 Rhude
at Farfetch,
EDITOR: IVY TANG. PHOTOGRAPHY: MAIN AND RUNWAY VIA IMAXTREE.COM.

$1,180

Tarin Thomas,
$510
Ferrari

A Better Mistake at Diesel, $1,395

Farfetch, $295

MARCH 2023 37
VOILA! MERCH

Doll
Check
Live your best Barbie life by
thinking pink and pretty.

STYLE
TIP
Keep the light and
lively vibe going by
mixing pink with
pastels and other
light hues.
Brandon Maxwell Pre-Spring 2023
 MERCH VOILA!

Chanel, price upon request Celine by Hedi Slimane, $620 Aldo, $200

Moschino, $865 Kate Spade, $265 Emmanuelle Khanh, $625

EDITOR: IVY TANG. PHOTOGRAPHY: MAIN VIA IMAXTREE.COM.

Acne Studios, $290 Dior Men, $2,700 Louis Vuitton Men’s, $14,200

MARCH 2023 39
VOILA! MERCH

PIN STRAIGHT

The classic pattern

is back in the
limelight—this time
with an edge.

40 MARCH 2023
 MERCH VOILA!

STYLE
TIP
Silver accessories
add a cool factor Black & Brown
to the traditionally London, $150
preppy look.
The Frankie Shop,
$270

Agmes, $1,940 The Frankie

Shop, $185

Versace,
$2,900
Poppy Lissiman, $95

By Far,
$600
EDITOR: IVY TANG. PHOTOGRAPHY: MAIN BY CHRISTIAN VIERIG VIA GETTY; RUNWAY VIA IMAXTREE.COM.

Dries Van Noten Menswear

Mowalola

Coperni
Monse

Luar

MARCH 2023 41
 HAIR • SKIN • EYES • LIPS • NAILS • ETC.

Tom Ford Spring 2023

MANE
TEXT BY NATASHA BOATENG. PHOTOGRAPHY VIA IMAXTREE.COM.

ATTRACTION
We asked two stylists for their best
tips when it comes to addressing
common challenges—from
boosting fine, limp hair to repairing
chemically scorched strands—
across the hair-type spectrum.

(SEE PAGE 48.)

CANVAS SHELFIE

New
& Now
A roundup of the latest
beauty buys to consider.

Body Boost
Exfoliating is key when it comes to
ridding the outer layer of the skin of
buildup and dead skin cells, reveal-
ing the softer, brighter, healthier skin
beneath. But it’s not just great for
your face—your body deserves the
same love. Powered by a sloughing
cocktail of alpha-hydroxy acids (think
mandelic, lactic and glycolic) as well
as antioxidant-rich hibiscus extract and
hydrating macadamia and avocado oils,
Beautycounter’s no-rinse Overnight
Resurfacing Body Peel ($77) is your
answer to next-level limb smoothness.

TEXT BY NATASHA BOATENG. PHOTOGRAPHY: BACKSTAGE VIA IMAXTREE.COM.

BASE HITS
Deeper woods like sandalwood might be
mainstays in the drydown of men’s fragrances,
but don’t sleep on sensual vanilla. Boss The
Scent Magnetic for Him ($105) is a rich eau
de parfum with top notes of pink pepper and
maninka fruit (a Boss exclusive), middle notes
of lavender and bran and base notes of vetiver
and sweet black vanilla bean extract.

44 MARCH 2023
 SHELFIE CANVAS

MANI CHEAT
Star-adorned square nails today? Tortoiseshell coffin talons tomorrow? Right this
way. Press-on nails truly are the unsung heroes of quick manicures, and we’re
totally here for their comeback. Available in four shapes (square, oval, almond
and coffin) and an array of 24 different nail art designs and colours, Sally Hansen
Salon Effects Perfect Manicure ($12) falsies come with everything you need (glue,
adhesive tabs, prep pad, cuticle stick and nail file) to create flawless looks in the
comfort of your own home, your hotel room or maybe even on-the-go.

Ester Manas Spring 2023

FACIAL FUEL
Launched in 1926, Weleda Skin
Food now sells at the rate of one
tube every 11 seconds around the
world. The iconic do-it-all moisturizer
has become hugely popular among
makeup artists (we see you, Pati
Dubroff), celebrities (hello, Hailey
Bieber, Victoria Beckham and
Rebel Wilson), aestheticians and
dermatologists. The year 2019 saw
the Swiss-German brand expand on
its hero product with a lighter version
of the cult cream, a body butter and
a lip balm, and this year it welcomes
an entirely new face range consisting
of a Nourishing Day Cream ($31),
Nourishing Night Cream ($31) and
Nourishing Oil-to-Milk Cleanser ($28).
Diehards will notice that the facial
lineup is enriched with the same
old-school plant-centric ingredients
that Weleda is known for (calendula, DIY Dye Clairol’s Natural Instincts Bold
ammonia-free colour kits ($13) are specifically
chamomile, rosemary, pansy and
sunflower extracts) as well as some created for textured hair and naturally dark strands.
new signatures, like olive leaf extract, Infused with a conditioning blend of argan oil and
squalane, lacquer tree berry and açaí and guarana-plant extracts to help protect your
sacha inchi oil. fragile mane during processing, these full-coverage
permanent dyes (in six super-pigmented shades,
like rich auburn and deep fuchsia) promise to last
for up to eight weeks.

MARCH 2023 45
CANVAS REGIMENS

MOTOR
CONTROL
For pro race-car driver Samantha Tan,
makeup and skincare are power tools
that help support her badass attitude
on the track.
By NATASHA BOATENG

One of my many creative outlets is drawing on my

face,” reads an Instagram caption on Samantha
Tan’s feed. The description, which is followed
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WHUIDX[ODVKHVDQGDZOHVVOOHGLQEURZV,WśVDWRWDOOHZN
sandwiched between shots of her suited up to drive and her
BMW race car.
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of the car enthusiast’s, even under her helmet. For Tan,
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ŝ,GHQLWHO\SXWRQDIXOOIDFHRIPDNHXSEHIRUH,JRIRUD
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feel confident and badass.” And her passion for beauty
GRHVQśWVWRSDWPDNHXSŝ,KDYHVWUXJJOHGZLWKHF]HPDP\ HQGXUDQFHUDFLQJFKDPSLRQVKLSřWKHUHQRZQHGʕʗ+'XEDL

PHOTOGRAPHY: MAIN COURTESY OF SAMANTHA TAN; CC CREAM SWATCH COURTESY OF IT COSMETICS;

HQWLUHOLIHVR,śPXVHGWRKDYLQJDYHU\VSHFLFVNLQFDUHURX-
WLQH$WQLJKWP\URXWLQHLVW\SLFDOO\IRXUWRYHVWHSVDQG
in the morning it’s three.”
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DOZD\VNHHSVFORVHLVUDWKHUUHIUHVKLQJHVSHFLDOO\VLQFHVKHśV
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ŝ,WIHHOVVRJRRGWREHWKHUVWEXW,DOVRGRQśWZDQWWREHWKH
last,” she says of the milestone. “I hope to continue paving
WKHZD\IRURWKHUJLUOVZKRZDQWWRSDUWDNHLQWKLVVSRUWŞ
Her deep love of beauty products also started when she
was in her teens; in the early aughts, she used to watch
Michelle Phan, an OG Asian American beauty vlogger.
“Growing up in a small town, I was the only Asian person
EYESHADOW, BLUSH, EYELINER AND OIL SWATCHES VIA ISTOCK.

ŝ,IHHOOLNHLI\RXVKRZDQ\NLQGRIIHPLQLQLW\SHRSOHGRQśW in my class in high school, so I ran to YouTube to find

WDNH\RXVHULRXVO\ŞVKHVD\Vŝ,ZDQWWRVKRZWKDW\RXFDQ
HPEUDFH\RXUIHPLQLQHVLGHřEHZKRHYHU\RXDUHřDQGVWLOO
be successful.”
2ULJLQDOO\IURP6WRXƨYLOOH2QW7DQZKRLVEDVHGLQ
Southern California, started her professional career as a solo
UDFHUZKHQVKHZDVʔ EXWWRGD\URXWLQHO\SDUWLFLSDWHVLQ
people I could relate to,” she recounts. “Michelle Phan
TXLFNO\EHFDPHRQHRIP\UROHPRGHOVDQG,IHOOLQORYH
ZLWKPDNHXS6KHśVDOVRDELJVNLQFDUHMXQNLHŞ
+RSLQJWRFRQWLQXHWREUHDNEDUULHUVLQKHUHOG7DQQRZ
KDVKHUVLJKWVVHWRQWKHʕʗ+RXUV/H0DQVLQ)UDQFHřWKH
pinnacle of competitive endurance racing. “My ultimate
WHDPHQGXUDQFHVSULQWVVRPHODVWLQJDIXOOʕʗKRXUV$QG
DWMXVWʕʘ\HDUVROGVKHKDVTXLFNO\FOLPEHGWKHUDQNVLQ
PRWRUVSRUW,QʕʓʕʔVKHQRWRQO\ZDONHGDZD\ZLWKVL[
championship titles but also made history by becom-
LQJ WKH ILUVW $VLDQZRPDQ WRZLQ D PDMRU LQWHUQDWLRQDO
46 MARCH 2023
JRDOLVWRJRWR/H0DQVDQGEHWKHUVW$VLDQZRPDQWR
ZLQWKDWŞVKHVD\Vŝ$QGLIřZKHQř,KLWWKDWPLOHVWRQHLW
would be so monumental for not only me but young girls.
My whole thing is to become the role model I never had in
the industry.” „
 REGIMENS CANVAS

Top Shelf SKIN & HAIR

Samantha Tan’s tried-and-true beauty essentials. 1. “I’m big on double cleansing in
the evenings to break down any
makeup and dirt from the day.”
Farmacy Clearly Clean makeup
cleansing balm, $46; CeraVe
11 Hydrating Cleanser, $21
2. “I typically use an essence at
night after cleansing.” SK-II Facial
Treatment Essence, $241
3. “I’ll do a face mask at night
for a little self-care. It sets the
tone for race day.” Innisfree
9 My Real Squeeze Mask in
“Cucumber,” $2.50
4. “I’m an Aveeno stan.” Aveeno
Daily Moisturizing Face Cream, $14
1 5. “I really like serums by Paula’s
Choice. I use the brand’s vitamin
12 1 C formula in the morning and a
retinol one in the evening.” Paula’s
5 Choice C15 Super Booster, $77,
and Super Antioxidant Concentrate
Serum With Retinol, $55
6. “Hair-care-wise, I like to do a
treatment mask the night before a
race.” Ouai Fine to Medium Hair
6
Treatment Masque, $50

MAKEUP
7. “This CC cream comes with
built-in SPF 50.” It Cosmetics
10 Your Skin But Better CC+ in
“Medium,” $55
8. “I’ve been loving this bronzer
7 stick for contouring.” Milk Makeup
Matte Cream Bronzer Stick in
“Baked,” $29
3
9. “This blush has a really
pretty shimmer.” Nars Blush
5 in “Orgasm,” $40
8 10. “I love the sparkly vibe of
2 Fenty Beauty’s highlighters.” Fenty
Beauty Diamond Bomb All-Over
Diamond Veil in “How Many
Carats?!,” $54
11. “I started using this
Anastasia pomade on my brows
in high school and have stuck with
it ever since.” Anastasia Dipbrow
Pomade in “Dark Brown,” $28
12. “You’ll almost never catch me
outside the house without liquid
eyeliner on. This long-wearing
formula has lasted throughout all
of my 24-hour races.” Tarte Double
Take eyeliner, $33
13. “This is my go-to palette for
my eyeshadow looks.” Morphe
4 13 350 Supernatural Glow Artistry
Palette, $38

MARCH 2023 47
CANVAS HAIR CARE

HEAD
STRONG Greasy scalp? Lack of volume?
Try these hair hacks for help with
common issues.
By INGRIE WILLIAMS

T
he hair on your head is beautifully unique, but you are
not alone in experiencing its most frequent challenges.
:HDVNHGWZRSURVWRVSLOOWKHLUEHVWDGYLFHřIURP
getting frizz-free curls that last for days to nipping
EUHDNDJHRIFRORXUWUHDWHGVWUDQGVLQWKHEXGřIRUGHDOLQJ
with common hair concerns. Add these tips to your routine
today and your best hair days will unfold before your eyes.
Zimmermann

THE BIG BOOST

Dealing with droopy, limp hair? The art to amplifying fine, flat
strands with volume that lasts includes layering the proper
products and finessing your styling techniques. “Fine hair
needs something to adhere to,” says Greg Gilmore, global
colour ambassador for Moroccanoil and an L.A.-based celeb-
rity colourist who’s worked with Toni Braxton, Tiffany Haddish
and Storm Reid. The road to big things begins in the shower.
“A volumizing shampoo will give you a good base to start
with,” says Jennifer Dubois, hairstylist and owner of Miyosiwin
Salon Spa in Regina, which offers services that are sensitive
to Indigenous culture. She recommends traditional conditioner
for all hair types, to help reduce frizz and ease tangles, but
hold. A volumizing mousse and a two-in-one dryer brush can
add amazing volume, Dubois explains. “Those tools are easy
to use,” she says, noting that elevation can make or break fuller
results. “At the crown, you want to pull the brush straight up,
pushing the hair forward.” To create voluminous curls that last,
Gilmore uses a curling iron with an extra-hold hairspray. “Spray
a little bit on each section before you curl it; then allow the
section to sit there or pin it up,” he says. “And don’t touch it
until you’re ready to comb out the whole style.” Whichever hot

PHOTOGRAPHY: BACKSTAGE AND RUNWAY VIA IMAXTREE.COM; SWATCHES VIA ISTOCK.

those with superfine hair can pivot to a lightweight leave-in
conditioning mist. “Spray it on your hands and rub it into the
ends first, and then work your way up,” she says. Using a hot
tool helps build structure for fine strands; just be sure to use
a thermal protectant before layering in a styling product with
HERO SKUS
tool you choose, adjust the setting to below 400ºF. “High heat
closes the cuticle, which makes hair sleeker and smoother,”
says Gilmore. “But that doesn’t give fine hair the opportunity
to have curls that last. They will have a hard time standing up
against gravity.”

Dove Hair Therapy Amika Hydro Rush Authentic Beauty Conair 3Q Ionic
Strength & Fullness Intense Moisture Leave- Concept Amplify Hot Brush, $95
Boost Shampoo, $9 In Conditioner, $34 Mousse, $31

48 MARCH 2023
 HAIR CARE CANVAS

OILER ALERT

Stella McCartney
If your hair seems set on being perpetually greasy, here’s how to course-correct. To help a client
with an oily scalp, Dubois switches up the basics. “It could be your shampoo that’s causing the
problem, so you need to change it and find one that works better,” she says. “But you also need
to give the new formula a sufficient trial period. You can’t just try it for a couple of weeks; it’s going
to take a few months for your scalp to adjust.” Phasing out daily shampoos is another part of her
protocol. “Using dry shampoo in between washes will help combat oiliness while also giving your
scalp a break,” she says. “Some formulas have a gritty feeling, which is good for fine hair but not for
coarse strands, while others have a clean feeling.” Different varieties address different hair types, so
find your “fit” by experimenting. For best results with dry shampoo, product placement counts, too.
Gilmore suggests parting the hair, holding the can several inches away from your head and spraying
directly toward the scalp area, not necessarily on the hair itself. “Let it sit for a second and then start
to comb through the hair,” he says. “The product will start to distribute; you will see how it’s moving
and can then determine if you want to add a bit more.” Where you put other stylers can also help or
hinder the issue. Sprays with a dry matte texture can diminish the look of stringy strands overall, but
Dubois suggests avoiding a concentration of thermal protectants on the roots and warns against
using too much hairspray. “It might add to the greasiness,” she says. The quickest foolproof fix?
Work with what you’ve got and lean into a fashion-forward updo. “Any extra grease gives you an
opportunity to have a really nice slicked-back ponytail or a sculpted chignon or bun,” says Gilmore. »

HERO SKUS
Chanel

Batiste Naturally Green Tea &

Chamomile Dry Shampoo, $13

KMS Dry Texture

Spray, $18

Neutrogena Healthy Scalp

Clarify & Shine Shampoo, $15

MARCH 2023 49
CANVAS HAIR CARE

HERO SKUS

Kazmaleje KurlsPlus Maui Moisture Curl Quench + Shaeri

Comb, $30 Coconut Oil Curl Smoothie, $13 Co-Wash, $47

Missoni
CURL TALK
Do you dream of having frizz-free, ultra-springy
curls that can withstand multi-day appearances?
A few key steps can make that dream a reality.
Infusing your texture with hydration at every
stage is an ideal strategy, and Dubois considers
cleansing products made exclusively for curls
to be game-changers. “Conditioner makes the
big difference,” she says. “It smooths the cuticle
down so it’s not frizzy and helps the curl form
better.” Applying a leave-in conditioner as soon
as you finish your cleansing routine, followed
promptly by a styling product that suits your
texture, is also a must. Light creams or gels are
best for finer curls, while thicker creams and
balms tend to be a good match for coarser ones.
Either way, be generous with product application
and diligent with distribution. Gilmore creates
definition by going section by section using a
wide-toothed comb. “Then I’ll go through each
section using my fingers like a rake to separate

PHOTOGRAPHY: BACKSTAGE AND RUNWAY VIA IMAXTREE.COM; SWATCHES VIA ISTOCK.

the curls that are saturated with product,” he
says. From there, air-drying or gently blow-drying
using a diffuser will lock curls in. “Air-drying is
the longest way to dry, but it will give you the
best curls afterwards,” says Gilmore. If you’re
diffusing, reduce excess moisture only around
the roots and use low heat and a low airflow to
avoid disrupting curls, says Dubois. And at night,
protecting your curls while you sleep is crucial for
style longevity. Gilmore recommends wrapping a
silky scarf around the hairline, to protect edges,
and then putting a satin bonnet on top. “The
headband pushes the curls back, so when you’re
lying on your side, you’re not necessarily on your
curls,” he says. For a quick morning refresh, mix
a bit of leave-in conditioner with a bottle of water
and lightly mist to reactivate the curling product.

50 MARCH 2023
 HAIR CARE CANVAS

Blumarine
BREAKING
POINT
The biggest pitfall for colour-treated strands is break-
age, but with a few pro tips, you can navigate through
the fragile phase and regain strength. “You will always
be compromising your hair by using colour, but this
shouldn’t deter you,” says Gilmore. “Hair colour comes
with so many great benefits, like the opportunity to
have freedom of expression.” Preventive measures are
best. “If you’re investing in a colour service, you need
to be investing in your home routine with colour-treated
products as well,” advises Dubois. Should breakage
occur, consider it a sign that something is missing. “All
colour-treated clients need a [professional] protein
treatment every six to eight weeks for strengthening,”
says Gilmore. “Protein helps build up the hair strand
and make it sturdy.” In between salon treatments,
which offer more potent formulas that help restore hair
integrity, an at-home routine focused on moisture will
help, too. You need to find a balance between strength
and softness, says Dubois. Her go-to SOS lineup for
breakage includes shampoo, conditioner and leave-in
conditioner for brittle hair and a biweekly reparative
mask or treatment. For blonds experiencing breakage,
Dubois suggests alternating between shampoos that
neutralize brassiness and more moisturizing formulas.
Purple shampoo keeps blond tones bright, but it can
also be very drying, she says. And excessive exposure
to hot tools is another drying factor to watch out for.
“Limit the amount of heat styling, and always use a
leave-in conditioner and thermal protectant on colour-
treated hair before blow-drying,” says Gilmore. For
those using at-home hair colour, he also recommends
watching out for breakage caused by overprocessing.
If you start by applying dye in the same spot on your
head every time, it will always be sitting there the long-
est while you finish the rest of your hair, he explains. „
HERO SKUS

L’Oréal Professionnel Serie Moroccanoil Moisture Redken Acidic

Expert Metal Detox Professional Repair Shampoo & Conditioner, Bonding Concentrate
Concentrated Oil, $43 $30 each Intensive Treatment, $34

MARCH 2023 51
CANVAS MY MAKEUP

Amazing Gaze
Content creator Kairyn Potts’s bold eye makeup
is intrinsically linked to his Indigenous roots.
As told to NATASHA BOATENG

In His Kit “This Xicana and Indigenous-owned

The content creator’s
makeup staples are like
an ode to Indigenous-
owned beauty brands.
makeup company has really beautiful
“Cheekbone Beauty is the first
Indigenous-owned makeup
palettes. This is my favourite one company to be carried by
because it has two of my go-to colours: Sephora Canada.” Cheekbone
orange and turquoise.” Prados Beauty Beauty Sustain Blush/Bronzer
The Matriarch Palette, $66 in “Medium,” $24

52 MARCH 2023
 MY MAKEUP CANVAS

K 
airyn Potts’s TikTok videos are heavily nuanced. ŝEHDXW\ŞWRPHřEXWXQLTXHEHDXW\WKDW\RXZRXOGRQO\VHH
By mixing comedy, real-life experiences and if you were on the powwow trail along Treaty Six Territory.
education, the Toronto-based Two-Spirit youth 7KHFRORXUV,FKRRVHWRZHDUKROGGHHSVLJQLFDQFHIRU
advocate and former social worker has amassed a me as well. When the Nakota, Dakota and Lakota peoples
IROORZLQJKRYHULQJQHDUWKHʕʛʓʓʓʓPDUN+LVHQWHUWDLQLQJ went to war, they painted their faces, and red was a colour
content shines a light on important Indigenous topics and they used to signify blood and power. In a more contem-
issues, like Two-Spirit/gender identity, mental-health aware- porary sense, red has been associated with the Missing
ness, sexual health and child welfare, to name a few. It’s a and Murdered Indigenous Women, Girls and Two-Spirit
ZLQQLQJIRUPXODWKDWKDVODQGHGKLPRQ7LN7RNśVʕʓʕʕHGL- People movement, which is something I speak a lot about
WLRQRI7KH'LVFRYHU/LVWDFRPSLODWLRQRIʘʓFUHDWRUVIURP in my online content. So when you see me wearing red, I’m
across the globe who are making a tremendous impact on the paying respect to and raising awareness for that movement
SODWIRUP$QRWKHUNH\HOHPHQWWKDWśVRǟHQZRYHQWKURXJK- in particular. Orange is also an incredibly important colour
RXWKLVYLGHRV"&RORXUIXOJUDSKLFH\HORRNV+HUH3RWWV because it represents Orange Shirt Day and the Every Child
VKDUHVKRZPDNHXSSOD\VDGHQLQJUROHLQKLVPHVVDJLQJ 0DWWHUVPRYHPHQWřFDOOVRIMXVWLFHIRU,QGLJHQRXVFKLOGUHQ
ZKRZHUHWDNHQWRUHVLGHQWLDOVFKRROV$QG,ORYHWXUTXRLVH
I’m a Nakota Sioux from Alexis Nakota Sioux Nation near VRPXFK7XUTXRLVHVWRQHVDUHOLNHGLDPRQGVIRU,QGLJHQRXV
Edmonton in Treaty Six Territory, and I grew up going people. They represent wealth, power and luxury and have
to powwows. Powwow makeup can be many things, but DYHU\UHJDODLUDERXWWKHP7XUTXRLVHMHZHOOHU\SLHFHVDUH
one of the main looks I would see women in my com- usually handmade, and a lot of them come from the Navajo
munity do as fancy-shawl and jingle-dress dancers is really 1DWLRQ:KHQ,ZHDUWXUTXRLVHLWśVOLNHWKHHTXLYDOHQWRI
JUDSKLFOLQHUDORQJWKHLUH\HVXVLQJDORWRIGRWVLQGLƨHU- wearing canary diamonds.
ent colours and sizes. That makeup was the pinnacle of I also really like to match my makeup to my beadwork. I’ll
beauty to me, like the upper echelon of what it meant to build an entire look around a piece, whether it’s beaded ear-
be pretty. rings, rope, a choker, a headband or a jacket. Beadwork from
I was a powwow dancer myself 7UHDW\6L[7HUULWRU\LVUHDOO\XQLTXH
when I was young, except I was LWRǟHQUHSUHVHQWVWKHZLOGRUDOV
a men’s traditional dancer and that grow in the prairies there), and
I wasn’t being me. I was really a lot of my pieces, most of which my
scared of what people would think, husband creates, incorporate materi-
VR,VWLHGP\VHOIDORWDQGZRXOG als like abalone and dentalium shells,
always say to myself, “Damn, when ERQHKRUVHKDLUDQGTXLOOZRUN
PHOTOGRAPHY: POTTS COURTESY OF KAIRYN POTTS; BINNY COSMETICS VIA INSTAGRAM/@BINNY_COSMETICS.

I grow up, I’m going to try that It took a long time for me to think
kind of makeup.” Now that I’m I was beautiful; I was always teased
older and not ashamed of who I and beaten up for my femininity. But
DFWXDOO\ DPř,śYH FRPH LQWR P\ now that I’m older and I’ve come
Two-Spirit identity holistically, into my body and how I look, my
and I’m really self-actualized as makeup really helps me package
D SHUVRQř, GRQśW SODFH WKRVH that all together and express myself
restrictions on myself anymore. in a way that pays homage to my
I allow myself to have a ton of roots and my upbringing. No matter
fun recreating all of the looks that where I go, I feel like, in a way, I’m
I saw as a kid and that screamed bringing home with me. „

“RezGal Lashes founder Brandi Woodhouse is
from Pinaymootang First Nation, and she cre-
ates really beautiful premium mink lashes with
the coolest names. These ones are fluffy and
dramatic—they’re perfect for drag.” RezGal
Lashes in “Auntie,” $10
“My good friend Brittany David is an up-and-
coming Indigenous makeup and special-
effects artist. She creates really vibrant
pigments and beautiful glitters, which I’ve
used so many times in my content.” Binny
Cosmetics Pride Palette, $40

MARCH 2023 53
CANVAS TEXTURE TALK

Locs Tales Four Canadians unpack the

relationship they have with
their signature locked hairstyle.
By NATASHA BOATENG

 Ab
n incredibly empowering thing about afro-textured
KDLULVKRZYHUVDWLOHLWLV/RFVřDSURWHFWLYHKDLU-
style where strands of hair are twisted around
WKHPVHOYHVLQWRSHUPDQHQWIXVHGXQLWVřDUHKHDY-
ily associated with Black identity and have rich and complex
origins. From Africa to Asia to the Americas, the hairstyle has
been worn continuously by people of colour from various
regions around the world, dating from ancient times until now.
But despite their long history, locs were only really thrust into
:HVWHUQFXOWXUHLQWKHʔ ʚʓVWKDQNVWRWKHVXFFHVVRIUHJJDH
artist Bob Marley, who wore them as a part of his connection
WR5DVWDIDULDQLVPřDUHOLJLRXVPRYHPHQWERUQLQ-DPDLFD
For decades, the term “dreadlocks” has been used to
describe the style, but today it’s considered problematic due
to its deep entanglement in colonialism and the establishment
of Eurocentric beauty standards, which have caused natural
hair and protective styles to be unfairly judged and policed.
Thus, there’s been a push to drop “dread” altogether to create
a healthier narrative.
Sure, locs continue to be symbolic of spiritual or religious
beliefs for many who sport them, but for a multitude of others,
WKHKDLUVW\OHKROGVGLƨHUHQWPHDQLQJV,WFDQUHSUHVHQWFXOWXUDO
or ethnic pride, a step in determining one’s own beauty ideal
or making a hairstyle choice that simply feels convenient
(though it does come with its own unique maintenance rou-
tine, including regular washing). Here, four creatives share
their locs journey and the experiences they’ve encountered
along the way.

SHAQUONE BLAKE MODEL TORONTO @onceaking__

I grew up admiring locs. (My dad has had them for as long as I can remember.) To me, they represent power. I started growing
my own when I was around 14, and five years into my locs journey, I began dabbling with different hues—blond, blue, red and
green. But grey has always been my favourite hair colour; it reminds me of wisdom. I went through a series of boxed dyes to
achieve my desired grey shade, but the process was really damaging to my hair so I eventually went to a hairdresser to try faux
locs. My own locs get braided; then extensions (mine are handmade in Poland) are added in using a crochet technique. I’ve
spent the majority of my life trying to fit in, but now I’m all about standing out. A locs mullet (bangs at the front, long in the back,
shaved sides) has been my signature look for the past three years. My hair makes me feel magical, unique and exclusively me.

54 MARCH 2023
 TEXTURE TALK CANVAS

NASKADEMINI
PHOTOGRAPHER MONTREAL @naskademini

My parents and my brothers all have locs. Even my aunt has beautiful
locs flowing almost all the way down to her ankles. I got mine done
in Trinidad and Tobago, where my family is from, and it’s been quite a
few years now that I’ve been growing them out. There are unpleasant
stigmas associated with locs due to a lack of knowledge and the
ways people can see you. A common question I get asked is if I
wash my hair. A lot of people also mistake locs for braids or continue
to refer to them as “dreadlocks,” not realizing that the traditional term
now has a negative connotation attached to it. People have also
randomly asked me if I have weed, assuming I’m a stoner or that I
sell it. There’s a larger conversation that needs to be had about how
people view the hairstyle and think you’re living a certain way based
on your appearance.

ROXANNE DE NOBREGA
MAKEUP ARTIST TORONTO @roxannedenobrega

My locs journey started in the late ’90s. People would ask me why I was
growing them out, commenting that I wouldn’t be able to find work. Maybe
I wouldn’t have been able to get an office job—especially back then—but
because I’m a makeup artist, I felt like I had creative licence to do what I
wanted. Also, my image of locs was Angela Davis, an educated activist and
university professor who had them at the time. Seeing her really gave me
confidence and made me not worry about others’ opinions. Since the ’90s,
I’ve had my locs really long and short, I’ve coloured them many times and I’ve
even shaved them off, grown an afro and then eventually retwisted my hair.
I’ve never stuck to just one style. I just love how in control I feel with my locs.
PHOTOGRAPHY: BLAKE BY DOMENIC CARMINE FOR VITALY; NASKADEMINI COURTESY OF NASKADEMINI;
DE NOBREGA BY GEORGE PANAYOTOU; WHITE COURTESY OF MAC COSMETICS.

DAMARIS WHITE
MODEL BARRIE, ONT. @queen.albino

I’ve been growing my locs for eight years. I was

tired of the process of getting my hair chemically
relaxed (which was often painful) every few weeks or
having to get extensions redone. To me, locs felt like
something that would be easier to maintain and that I
could take on myself. And they’re very versatile: I’ll do
updos or half-up styles and curl them or braid them.
Common stereotypes I experience about my locs are
people assuming I’m Rastafarian or spiritual or that
I’m either vegan or vegetarian. And as a model, I’ve
been on-set with hairstylists who think they can’t do
much with my hair so they just leave it down. „

MARCH 2023 55
TODAY TOMORROW

LAST WEEK LAST WEEK

CHECK IN DAILY for THE RELEASES YOU NEED TO KNOW

FASHIONMAGAZINE.COM/THE-DROP

@FASHIONCanada / @FASHIONMagazine
 TEXT BY BERNADETTE MORRA. PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROYAL GILBERT. STYLING BY KAREN CLARKSON. DRESS, $8,455,
SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO. BRACELET, $8,750, CARTIER.

DRESSING • DREAMING • DISCOVERING

for more.
Draping is just

Turn to page 68
one of the season’s
top looks modelled
by (former banker!)
Jodie Turner-Smith.
WRAP PARTY
JEAN

Dress, $225,
Meesh.to. Boots,
$1,215, Paris
Texas. Earrings,
$525, Ottolinger at
Archives Toronto.
Necklace, $100,
COS. Bracelet,
$115, Biko. Ring
(left, top), $270, ring
(left, bottom), $380,
and rings (right,
middle and bottom),
$380 each, Steff
Eleoff. Ring (worn
throughout) (right,
top), Dobson’s own.
MACHINE
Fefe Dobson is
back and bolder
than ever in this
season’s most daring
denim looks.
Words by
NATALIE MICHIE

Photography by
LAWRENCE CORTEZ

Styling by
ASHLEY GALANG

Creative direction by
GEORGE ANTONOPOULOS
Jacket, $980,
Unttld. Top, $235,
Gabriella Meyer
at Denimcratic.
Earrings, $1,810,
and necklace, $700,
Dolce & Gabbana.
 Jacket, $295, U3
Select. Top, $395,
and skirt, $275,
Diesel. Rings, $100
each, Vitaly. Earrings,
$540, Steff Eleoff.
Legwear, $8, Ardene.
Jacket, $4,640,
Junya Watanabe
x Comme des
Garçons at The
Room at Hudson’s
Bay. Top, $580,
Gabriella Meyer at
Denimcratic. Pants,
$520, Alexandra
Armata. Shoes,
$350, Jeffrey
Campbell. Earcuff,
$120, Vitaly.
Earrings, $70,
COS. Necklace,
$145, Gahm.

62 MARCH 2023
F
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ZHOLNHZKDWVKHKDVWRVD\RUQRW„

READ THE FULL INTERVIEW AT FASHIONMAGAZINE.COM.

MARCH 2023 63
Top, $215, Levi’s x
Naomi Osaka. Jeans,
$1,325, shoes, $1,575,
earrings, $525, and
scarf and necklace,
prices upon request,
Versace. Ring
(left), $90, Vitaly.
Ring (right), $610,
Panconesi at
Archives Toronto.
 Jacket, $2,290,
pants, $1,190, boots,
$1,490, earrings,
$590, and ring,
$490, Alexander
McQueen.
Vest, $495, and pants,
$445, Ganni. Earrings,
$215, and necklace,
$160, GCDS at Archives
Toronto. Bracelets, $600
each, Steff Eleoff.
Dress, $2,310,
Et Ochs. Boots,
$1,215, Paris
Texas. Earrings,
$780, Panconesi
at Archives Toronto.
Gloves, $335,
Gabriella Meyer
at Denimcratic.

Hair, Ryan L.
McGovern for P1M.
ca. Makeup, Sabrina
Rinaldi for P1M.ca.
Fashion assistant,
Jalen Fairclough.
Photo assistants,
Nicolas Emas
Varone and Judy Gu.
Shot on location
at El Mocambo
in Toronto.
 Top, price
upon request,
and skirt,
$2,750, Loewe.
Shoes, $1,250,
Gina. Earring
(worn throughout),
Turner-Smith’s own.
 COVER STORY INSPO

From her iconic red-carpet reveals to her hearty laughter,

Jodie Turner-Smith proves she’s no wallflower.

Words by ANNIKA LAUTENS Photography by ROYAL GILBERT

Styling by KAREN CLARKSON Creative direction by GEORGE ANTONOPOULOS

W
HEN JODIE TURNER-SMITH pops onto
my screen in January, she’s running down
the stairs of her London, England, home,
trying to escape the clutches of her almost
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cries followed by the soothing voice of her husband, Dawson’s
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,śYH FDXJKW WKH PRGHO WXUQHG DFWRU LQ PRP PRGH ŝ6KHśV
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to start the year laughing, so she did. Enter :KLWH1RLVH, a
dark comedy by Noah Baumbach (0DUULDJH6WRU\) about a
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%DG 0RQNH\, Vince Vaughn’s detective series for Apple
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chat, her hair is berry blue and she’s wearing gigantic gold-
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best friend. »

MARCH 2023 69
 Dress, jumpsuit
and bikini, prices
upon request,
Burberry. Earring
(worn throughout),
Turner-Smith’s own.
Top, $14,215,
skirt, $74,940,
and headpiece,
$7,495, Gucci.
Top, skirt and
boots, prices
upon request,
Louis Vuitton.
Top, skirt, shorts,
socks, shoes,
necklace, earrings,
bracelet and
ring, prices upon
request, Dior.
INSPO COVER STORY
EVERYTHING I WEAR IS ABOUT BRINGING
MY PERSONALITY TO THE FOREFRONT OF THINGS.
,WZRXOGEHHDV\WREHOLHYHWKDWWKHDFWRUśVHQYLDEOHFRQ-
dence is innate. But, she reveals, it took some time to build.
Turner-Smith was born and raised by Jamaican parents in
Peterborough, England, but moved to Maryland when she
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6PLWKSXUVXHGDFDUHHULQEDQNLQJŝ$VDQLPPLJUDQWIDPLO\
we weren’t wealthy by any means,” she explains. “When I
was in school, I did theatre. But when it came to choosing a
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FNVDERXW\RXUGLVGDLQIRUSUHJQDQW
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IRUH7XUQHU6PLWKIHOWXQIXOOOHGDQGOHǟKHUMREWREHFRPHD
writer. “I got this crazy idea that I should be happy,” she says
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ZLWK3KDUUHOO:LOOLDPVřZKRPVKHPHWDWD1(5'FRQ-
FHUWLQʕʓʓ řFKDQJHGWKHWUDMHFWRU\RIKHUOLIHŝ,ZRXOGQśW
say that he discovered me, but he encouraged me to try to be
a model,” she begins very nonchalantly, glossing over how
LQFUHGLEO\VXUUHDODQGIUDQNO\FRROWKDWVWDWHPHQWLVŝ7KDW
was a big moment that made me decide to take a chance on
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IDQVZLOOEHTXLFNWRFORFNKHUIRUKHUDSSHDUDQFHDORQJVLGH
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ZDVEHFDXVHRISURMHFWVOLNHWKHVHWKDWVKHGHFLGHGWRWU\DFW-
ing. Even so, Turner-Smith admits that she’s always been a
storyteller, animatedly describing how, when she was young-
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continued the tradition with her daughter.
Turner-Smith takes a similar approach to red-carpet dress-
LQJŝ,DOZD\VORRNDWFORWKHVDQGWKLQNWRP\VHOIŚ:KRLV
VKH":KDWśVKHUHQHUJ\"śŞVKHVD\V$FFRUGLQJWRWKHLQWHU-
QHWVKHśVDERQDGHIDVKLRQLFRQ7KHVWDURIThe Independent
PDGHJOREDOKHDGOLQHVWKLVSDVW$XJXVWIRUVHUYLQJGDULQJDQG
ZLWKKHUGDXJKWHULQʕʓʔ 7XUQHU6PLWKUHJXODUO\UHEHOOHG
DJDLQVWWUDGLWLRQDOPDWHUQLW\ZHDUE\URFNLQJWWHGVLOKRXHWWHV
DQGWUHQG\VHSDUDWHV8QIRUWXQDWHO\QRWHYHU\RQHZDVVXS-
SRUWLYH$ǟHUVKHDSSHDUHGRQThe Graham Norton Show in
ʕʓʕʓZHDULQJDFURSWRSWKHDFWRUZDVVHYHUHO\ERG\VKDPHG
E\8.IDQVDQGPHGLDRXWOHWVIRUGDULQJWREDUHKHUSUHJQDQW
EHOO\ 1HYHU RQH WR QRW VSHDN KHU PLQG 7XUQHU6PLWK
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women’s bodies in British television.”
Three years later, Turner-Smith reiterates that she’s never
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RIKRZVKHśVSHUFHLYHGŝ(YHU\WKLQJ,VD\DQGGREHFRPHVD
political statement because I’m a dark-skinned Black woman
OLYLQJLQ$PHULFDDQGPDUULHGWRDZKLWHPDQŞVKHVKDUHV
UHIHUHQFLQJKHUDQGKHUKXVEDQGśVKRPHEDVHLQ/$ŝ7KHUHśV
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VKHGRHVQśWGZHOORQLWIRUORQJŝ,GRQśWKDYHFRQWURORYHUKRZ
the world sees me,” she says. “I’m going to make mistakes, but
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WREHWKHKLJKHVWYHUVLRQRIP\VHOIŞ:KLFKLVKRZVKHJRWLQ-
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ŝ$Q\ DQG HYHU\ GD\ WKDW , KDYH DQRSSRUWXQLW\ WR KHOS
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or a billionaire, but I am someone in the public eye who can
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WKDWFDQKRSHIXOO\PRYHWKHQHHGOHŞ
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in the hotly anticipated new Star Wars series The Acolyte (re-
dazzling looks on the Venice International Film Festival red
FDUSHW $QG WKDQNV WR WKH KHOS RI KHU VW\OLVWV :D\PDQ 
0LFDKKHURXWWVKDYHRQO\JRWWHQELJJHUDQGEROGHU
“Babe, I’m a Virgo, so I’m constantly sending my stylists
SKRWRVRIWKLQJV,OLNHŞVKHVKDUHVWDONLQJDERXWKHUFROODE-
RUDWLYHSURFHVV7KRVHLWHPVMXVWGRQśWQHFHVVDULO\DOOORRNWKH
same. “Everything I wear is about bringing my personality to
WKHIRUHIURQWRIWKLQJVDQGWKHUHśVDOHJLRQRIZRPHQZKROLYH
LQVLGHPHŞVKHODXJKVŝ,WśVDERXWIHHOLQJFRPIRUWDEOHLQP\
VNLQřQRWDFWXDOFRPIRUWřDQGWHOOLQJWKHLUVWRU\$QGVRPH
VWRULHVDUHMDJJHGDQGSDLQIXOŞ
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74 MARCH 2023
OHDVHGDWHVWLOO7%'UXOLQJWKHUHGFDUSHWDQGJKWLQJIRU
ZRPHQśVULJKWV7XUQHU6PLWKGRHVQśWFRQVLGHUKHUVHOIDUROH
model. “I’m a human being, and I think that everyone should
ZDQWWREHDJRRGKXPDQEHLQJŞVKHVD\VWKRXJKWIXOO\
Her priority right now, however, is getting back to her
daughter, whose patience has clearly run out as she can once
DJDLQEHKHDUGFDOOLQJIRUKHUPRPLQWKHEDFNJURXQG$IHZ
VLOO\FRPPHQWVDQGODXJKVODWHU7XUQHU6PLWKKDVORJJHGRƨ
but I realize that I’m still looking at my computer screen and
VPLOLQJ,UHFDOODQHDUOLHUSRLQWLQRXUFRQYHUVDWLRQZKHQVKH
VKDUHG ŝ, WKLQN ZKHQ \RX VHH VRPHRQH ZKR LV JHQXLQHO\
KDYLQJDJRRGWLPHLWśVLQIHFWLRXV7KHUHśVVRPHWKLQJYHU\
SRZHUIXODERXWHQMR\LQJOLIHŞ,QGHHGWKHUHLV„
Top, $10,000,
skirt, $8,900,
bra, $775, and
briefs, $595,
Miu Miu.
Dress, $4,205,
and chest
plate, $22,365,
LaQuan Smith.
 Top and skirt,
prices upon
request, Feben.
Boots, $1,870,
Bottega Veneta.

Hair, Marcia
Lee for One
Represents/Wella
Professionals.
Makeup, Bernicia
Boateng for AGM.
Nails, Lucy Tucker
for Louella Belle.
Fashion assistants,
Maggie Curwin,
Molly Ellison and
Ellen Reinerstedt.
Production
assistant, Joshua
Onabowu. Digital
tech, Alex Cornes.
Lighting, Michael
O Williams.
Earrings, $725 for
a pair, necklace,
$1,930, and bag,
$1,410, Louis Vuitton.

dot matrix Louis Vuitton and Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama combine
their creative signatures for a collab that sparks pure joy.

Photography by LAWRENCE CORTEZ Styling by CHAD BURTON

Creative direction by GEORGE ANTONOPOULOS

 Top, $515,
pants, $1,090,
boots, $2,040,
and bag, $5,100,
Louis Vuitton.
Jacket, $3,550,
and bag, $6,400,
Louis Vuitton.
 Jacket and pants,
prices upon request,
and shoes, $1,540,
Louis Vuitton Men’s.
Left: Coat, shirt
and pants, prices
upon request, and
shoes, $1,540,
Louis Vuitton
Men’s. Hat, $880,
Louis Vuitton.
Right: Top, $1,910,
skirt, $2,180,
shoes, $1,500, and
bag, $8,100, Louis
Vuitton. Legwear,
stylist’s own.
Shirt, price upon
request, and tie,
$325, Louis Vuitton
Men’s. Earring,
$565 for a pair,
Louis Vuitton.
Top and pants,
prices upon request,
shoes, $1,120, and
bag, $4,500, Louis
Vuitton Men’s.
Earring, $725 for a
pair, Louis Vuitton.
Dress and
shoes, prices
upon request,
and bag,
$8,100, Louis
Vuitton. Socks,
stylist’s own.

Hair, Kristjan
Hayden for Cadre
Artist Management.
Makeup, Sabrina
Rinaldi for P1M.ca.
Prop styling, Chad
Burton for Cadre
Artist Management.
Photo assistants,
Nicolas Emas
Varone and Judy
Gu. Models, Alice
Yamagishi for
Ciotti Models
Toronto and Kai
Luk-Laughton for
Elite Toronto.
INSPO COLLECTING

Lofty
Living
Videographer and content
creator Regan Vasquez’s
punchy platforms reflect her
uplifting personality.
By ODESSA PALOMA PARKER

T
he style in Chattanooga,
Tenn., might be outdoorsy
and granola, but Regan
Vasquez is anything but. “My
best friend, whom I live with, and
I are both very maximalist when it
comes to fashion,” Vasquez explains
over a video call from her colourful
bedroom. “We know when we walk
into a place that we’re going to be the
craziest-dressed people there. But we
NLQGRIIHHGRƨRILWŞ
Foremost in Vasquez’s OTT
wardrobe is her collection of around
ʓSDLUVRISODWIRUPVKRHV+HUWKUHH
everyday go-tos are solid black, white
and blue, but it’s the novelty designs
that excite her the most. Standouts
include a barnyard-themed style
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purchase with see-through bottoms
WKDWFDQEHOOHGZLWK6NLWWOHVRUDQ\
other amusing assortment of items).
POWER MOVES
“I’ve always loved shoes, even
“I loved the Spice Girls
when I was a young girl,” Vasquez
and also designer Betsey
says. “But I hated kids shoes because
Johnson,” says Vasquez
they weren’t ‘cool’ to me.” Platforms
of a few of her early style
LQWULJXHKHUEHFDXVHŝWKH\DUHGLƨHU-
ent,” she explains. “They’re a style inspirations, all well known
with wacky colourways and patterns. for their attention-getting
You can do things with a platform garments—and attitudes
that you can’t do with a stiletto.” to match. Given these
Vasquez’s impeccably dressed references, it’s no surprise
JUDQGPRWKHUERXJKWKHUKHUUVW that there’s also a pair
pair of high heels when Vasquez of nostalgia-inducing
ZDVDSUHWHHQ+LODU\'XƨDQGKHU Powerpuff Girls-themed
DWIRUPZHDULQJ/L]]LH0F*XLUH platforms in her closet.
character and the Tumblr-centric rise

86 MARCH 2023
 COLLECTING INSPO

WITH THE GANG

“Some people are really impressed,
while others look at me like I’m an alien
or something,” says Vasquez about
her collection. “But I don’t care how
people react.”

TAKING IT
IN STRIDE
“Don’t get so caught
up in trends,” Vasquez
advises. “They are
always coming and
going. Try to find
what you like simply
because you like it.
People are always
going to have some-
thing negative to say,
but your own opinion
is really the only one
that matters.”
PHOTOGRAPHY BY RANDI VASQUEZ. MAKEUP, BAILEY GOSS.

STACKED UP
A penchant for shoes
that pop means that
Vasquez has not one but
two “if money were no
SWEET SURRENDER object” shoe purchases
No look is too bold for Vasquez, who says her she’d like to make: the
colleagues love it when she shows up at the infamous Chanel boots
office wearing her novelty wardrobe items. from The Devil Wears
Major crowd-pleasers include Sugar Thrillz’s Prada and Elle Woods’s
watermelon-design platforms and a watermelon pink platforms from
bag by New York-based brand Susan Alexandra. Legally Blonde.

MARCH 2023 87
INSPO COLLECTING

RISE AND SHINE

“I actually use what I collect,” Vasquez says
of her array of whimsical accessories. She’s
even been known to buy two of the same
pair—one to wear out to clubs and the other
to keep nicer for daywear and display. She’s
also mindful of maintaining her pieces, noting
that makeup-remover wipes have been useful
for getting rid of scuffs after a night out.

SUGAR HIGH
Vasquez says
the possibilities
are endless in
terms of what
she can fill these
clear-soled shoes
from YRU with.
She purchased
them as part of
her Willy Wonka
Halloween costume.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY RANDI VASQUEZ. MAKEUP, BAILEY GOSS.

ASSEMBLY LINE
RIDING HIGH Vasquez shops
Vasquez recalls wearing these pasture-printed platforms mostly online
from a Delia’s by Dolls Kill collection to a bachelorette party because bricks-
with a cowgirl theme. “The people in my life expect me to and-mortar stores
have a shoe for every occasion,” she notes. don’t always stock
her size 5.

88 MARCH 2023

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COLLECTING INSPO
PLATFORM PARTY
“Two questions that I get
asked the most are ‘How
do you walk in them?’
and ‘Where did you find
those?’” says Vasquez
about how others react
to her droll footwear.
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MARCH 2023 89
INSPO Ƅ IT FOREVER

TEXT BY ODESSA PALOMA PARKER. CORSET, $5,375, MOYO BY BIBI.

Cinching Along
Weighing in at nearly 1.5 kilograms and taking “weeks of painstaking fine-motor work” to finish, the Dream Corset by artisanal brand
Moyo by Bibi was made to be fantasized about. The curvaceous piece features a mix of beads and Swarovski crystals decadently
arranged in a manner similar to that of traditional African accessories. It was inspired by designer Bibi Ahmed’s desire to capture the
regal essence of the bodices worn by “Greek goddesses and European royalty” while giving a nod to her Kenyan background. “I was
dreaming of a piece for my Royal Goddesses,” says the Mombasa-born, U.K.-based Ahmed, who creates jobs in Africa and Britain
to help women rise out of poverty. “Using traditional Maasai beading is the perfect way to make this dream come true.”

90 MARCH 2023
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