Cruise International - AugustSeptember 2023

& TRAVEL
Win!
A MED CRUISE
WITH VIRGIN
VOYAGES
WORT H £3,500
Adventure in
£5.25
cruiseandtravel.co.uk
AUG/SEPT 2023
Croatia by yacht Caribbean for foodies Antwerp Best solo river cruises
Simon Weston interview Guernsey Northern Europe capitals Reviews
The sense of warmth and camaraderie from dedicated staff. E X Q U I S I T E LY C R A F T E D C U I S I N E .
The thrill of becoming awestruck as you arrive at a fabled destination for the first time. C U R AT E D T R AV E L E X P E R I E N C E S .
The joy of celebrating life, with indulgent cuisine. S M A L L S H I P L U X U R Y.
It’s the personal experiences that will last a lifetime.
C A L L 0 3 4 5 5 0 5 19 2 0 | V I S I T O C E A N I AC R U I S E S .C O M
C O N TAC T YO U R T R AV E L A DV I S O R
ED I T O R ’ S LE T T ER
42
66 60
IT WAS A BLINK-AND-YOU’LL-MISS-IT MOMENT, and I very F O LL OW U S
nearly did! On a visit to Alaska some years ago, I was on Stay up to date with the latest
deck scanning the water for the slightest sign of a whale from Cruise & Travel
sighting, when I turned to chat to a fellow guest. Of course,
that was the second a humpback arched out of the water, Subscribe to our weekly emails
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cuing ‘oohs’ and ‘ahs’ from everyone around. Luckily, I turned
back just in time to catch a glimpse, even better because there was no Like us on Facebook
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There were no such near-misses for our Alaskan adventurer, who Like us on Instagram
explores the wild beauty of America’s final frontier (page 42). We stay
PICTURES: ALAMY STOCK PHOTO/SINA ETTMER; CHRIS GEORGE PHOTOGRAPHY; PRINCESS
instagram.com/cruiseandtraveluk
close to nature with bee-keeping and rum-tasting in the Caribbean
Follow us on Twitter
(page 36) followed by some wheely good fun in Guernsey (page 60). twitter.com/cruisetraveluk
If you’re more of a city slicker, read about the revamped museum
scene in under-the-radar Antwerp (page 78) and northern Europe’s
The Chelsea Magazine Company,
coolest capitals (page 66), then start plotting your next adventure. Jubilee House, 2 Jubilee Place,
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CRUISE ANDTR AVEL.CO.UK AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2023 | CRUISE & TR AVEL 3

Ultra-Luxury
Mediterranean
Voyages 2024
The Seabourn experience is unlike any other form of travel. It is luxurious, yet
relaxed … elegant, yet casual … sumptuous, yet understated. A concept designed
around an intimate boutique hotel, which happens to be at sea. In summer 2024, Book by 6 Sep 2023 and
why not plan to explore great cities, UNESCO World Heritage Sites, quintessential save up to 10%* on
riviera resorts and timeless island villages - all in ultra-luxury.
Seabourn Cruises
Seabourn Encore - offering 300 all-veranda suites hidden harbours, yet features amenities rivalling
- will sail week-long eastern Mediterranean voyages much larger ships, including sumptuously furnished
from Athens (Piraeus), Istanbul and Venice. The living areas and restaurants, elegant settings for
JUST A FEW
ship’s visit to Kuşadasi will feature Seabourn’s meals created under the guidance of multi-Michelin
MEDITERRANEAN HIGHLIGHTS IN 2024
signature complimentary “Evening at Ephesus”, a starred chef Thomas Keller. To extend the culinary
private classical concert which takes place within experience, guests may shop a bustling Sicilian market 7-night Greek Isles & Ephesus
the spectacular UNESCO site at sunset. On select with an expert Seabourn chef as their guide, enjoying Seabourn Encore
itineraries, guests may also enjoy a Marina Day with an insider’s look into unique regional produce. Or they 19 May, 7 Jul, 18 Aug, 20 Oct 2024
watersports when the ship is anchored off breath- may explore the local wines of Tuscany and Provence Athens (Piraeus) to Istanbul
taking spots such as Spetsai, Nydri and Monemvasia. with a local wine expert. Visits: Gythion (Sparta, Greece); Chania (Crete); Mykonos;
Kusadasi (Ephesus, Turkey); Cesme
Seabourn Ovation will sail the breath-taking French From the luxury of all-suite accommodations to • Seabourn’s Complimentary ‘Evening at Ephesus’
• Marina day with complimentary watersports
and Italian rivieras, as well as the cities of the Iberian complimentary fine wines and spirits, and a no tipping
• Inclusive Air
coast, venturing as far west as Casablanca and Tangier policy, Seabourn exemplifies the definition
in Morocco. She slips into picturesque ports and of travelling well. 7-night Adriatic & Greek Treasures
Seabourn Encore | 28 Apr, 28 Jul, 13 Oct 2024
Venice to Athens (Piraeus)
Visits: Vodice (Sibenik, Croatia); Kotor (Montenegro);
Kerkira (Corfu); Cephalonia (Greece); Nafplion (Mycenae
& Epidaurus)
• Sail into Kotor Fjord
• Inclusive Air
10-night Tyrrhenian Treasures & Malta

Seabourn Ovation | 2 Jul 2024
Monte Carlo to Barcelona
Visits: Porto Santo Stefano (Italy); Giardini Naxos (Taormina,
Sicily); Mgarr (Victoria, Malta); Valletta (overnight); Ajaccio
(Corsica); St Tropez (France); Palamos (Spain).
• Overnight stay in Valletta
• Inclusive Air
THE SEABOURN ALL-INCLUSIVE DIFFERENCE
● All luxuriously appointed ocean-front suites, most ● Complimentary premium spirits and fine wines 10-night Spain & Moroccan Gems
with private veranda Seabourn Ovation l 1 Aug, 10 Oct 2024
● Tipping neither required, nor expected Roundtrip Barcelona
● Intuitive, personalised service provided by staff
● World-class dining, enhanced through a partnership Visits: Port-Vendres (France); Malaga (Granada, Spain);
passionate about exceeding guests expectations Gibraltar; Casablanca (Morocco, overnight);
with Chef Thomas Keller
Cartagena (Spain); Valencia.
● Welcome Champagne and complimentary
in-suite bar stocked with your preferences
● All dining venues complimentary, dine where, when • Overnight stay in Casablanca
• Inclusive Air
and with whom you wish
CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL PROFESSIONAL, CALL 0344 338 8615 OR VISIT WWW.SEABOURN.COM
Terms & Conditions: Featured prices are per guest based on double occupancy and are inclusive of Cruise Fare, Taxes, Fees & Port Expenses. Fares are in GBP with all savings included. Discount amounts vary: up
to 10%, are based on promo code N**/JE* and are valid on select 2023 - 2024 sailings. Discounts apply to the cruise-only fare and Taxes, Fees or Port Expenses (TF&PE) or, in the event that Inclusive Air is provided,
discount applies to the Inclusive Air package price including TF&PE. Discounts are not valid on any optional packages including but not limited to: air (when not included in the package price), private car transfers,
or pre/post packages. The Inclusive Air (IA) offer includes Economy Class Air (ECA). IA is subject to availability, valid only for guests residing in the UK and applicable to the first and second guests sharing a Suite only. In the event that
promotional ECA is not available (at the sole discretion of Seabourn), or for guests not wishing to utilise the promotional air offer, a cruise credit will be applied to the booking amount. Promotional Inclusive Business Class Air (BCA) may
also be available for an additional charge. IA offers include complimentary transfers between the airport and ship and in case of an airline delay or cancellation when enroute, next port protection. If promotional air flight(s) and/or cruise schedule(s)
force an overnight, a complimentary hotel night is also included. Inclusive ECA offer is based on promo code JE, Inclusive BCA offer is based on promo code JB. Offer is subject to availability and may be capacity controlled and may be modified or
withdrawn at any time without prior notice. Ports of call may vary according to departure date. Other restrictions may apply. Seabourn reserves the right to correct errors. Ships’ registry: Bahamas. ©2023 Seabourn
CONTENTS AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2023
28
CROATIA
Enjoy a slower sailing with a small-scale yacht
cruise along the shores of the Adriatic Sea
36
PICTURE: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/DREAMER4787
CARIBBEAN Spice up an island-

hopping adventure with a little local
flavour on this food-focused cruise
78
ANTWERP Europe’s diamond capital
is entering a new golden age thanks to a
modern fashion scene and new museums

CONTENTS
F E AT U R E S
28 53
CROATIA SOLO RIVER CRUISING
Forget early all-aboard times Which lines offer the best deals
on a relaxed yacht escape for solo travellers? We find out
36 60
CARIBBEAN GUERNSEY
Get the inside track on how to Enjoy an arty escape on the
rev up your rum cake with a island that inspired Renoir
tasty trip around the islands
66
42 NORTHERN EUROPE
ALASKA Compare the highlights of Oslo,
From whales to wilderness, Copenhagen and Amsterdam
explore untouched natural
beauty on an Alaska voyage 78
Win!
CITY GUIDE
Flemish food and first-class
culture await in Antwerp 36
A MED CRUISE
72
WITH VIRGIN
VOYAGES
WORTH £3,500 60
53
78
© The Chelsea Magazine
Company Ltd 2023, part of the
COV ER REGULARS Telegraph Media Group
All rights reserved. Text and
pictures are copyright restricted and
CRUISE 8 HOT SPOTS 72 COMPETITION 88 REVIEWS must not be reproduced without
PICTURES: ALBERTO OVIEDO; CHRIS GEORGE PHOTOGRAPHY; WIM HADERMAN:
permission of the publishers. The

& TRAVEL Dream about golden sands in Win a Med cruise for two Our verdict on Ambassador’s
information in CRUISE & TRAVEL
Win! Spain or glaciers in Greenland courtesy of Virgin Voyages Ambition, Marella Voyager and
A MED CRUISE
WITH VIRGIN
VOYAGES
has been published in good faith
WORTH £3,500
‘discovery yacht’ Scenic Eclipse II and every effort has been made
13 NEWS 74 INSIDER’S GUIDE to ensure its accuracy. However,
where appropriate, you are strongly
All your must-read cruise news, Don’t get confused by cruise 97 ASK THE EXPERTS advised to check prices, opening
Adventure in style tips and top foodie trends apps with our tech-savvy tips Industry insiders answer your times, dates etc, before making
ALASKA burning questions about cruise
final arrangements. All liability for
loss, disappointment, negligence or
Croatia by yacht Caribbean for foodies Antwerp Best solo river cruises
Simon Weston interview Guernsey Northern Europe capitals Reviews
22 POSTCARDS 85 BEHIND THE SCENES damage caused by reliance on the
GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK PHOTO/WILDROZE
GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/
GERALD AND BUFF CORSI/
Take on tango in Buenos Aires, Dog walkers, groundskeepers 98 CELEBRITY TRAVELS information contained within this
publication is hereby excluded. The
FOCUS ON NATURE fine food in Quebec City, and and surf instructors – on a ship? Falklands War veteran Simon opinions expressed by contributors
quirky culture in Aomori, Japan Find out more in our crew Q&A Weston on why he loves cruise to CRUISE & TRAVEL are not
necessarily those of the publisher. For
up-to-date travel advice, check gov.uk/
foreign-travel-advice before you go.
EDITORIAL Acting Editor Katie McGonagle Art Director Petra Manley-Leach Sub-Editor Laura Sutherland DIGITAL Digital Editor Beth Erskine Digital Marketing Assistant Olivia Printed in England by
Matthew ADVERTISING Group Director of Sales Catherine Chapman Sales Manager Warren Wilkinson PUBLISHING Publisher Simon Temlett Managing Director James Dobson William Gibbons, West Midlands.
Chief Financial Officer Vicki Gavin NEWS DISTRIBUTION News Trade (UK and Rest of World): Seymour International Ltd., 2 East Poultry Avenue, London, EC1A 9PT Origination by All Points Media
CRUISE & TRAVEL (Print ISSN 2753-6807) (Online ISSN 2976-8020) is published bi-monthly by The Chelsea Magazine Company, part of the Telegraph Media Group. www.allpointsmedia.co.uk
6 CRUISE & TR AVEL | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2023 CRUISE ANDTR AVEL.CO.UK

BO VI
AT
O KIN
K G
O .C
N O
LI M
N
E
The Viking Polaris, Antarctica
V I K I N G I N C L U S I V E VA L U E
IT’S ALL INCLUDED
• International return fights from London

• One complimentary shore excursion or landing
at each site
• All onboard meals, including alternative
2024 E XPEDITION JOURNEYS
restaurant dining at no extra charge
• Beer, wine & soft drinks with onboard lunch A N TA R C T I C A X PATA G O N I A & C H I L E A N F J O R D S
& dinner
• Viking expedition jacket (polar itineraries only)
With the introduction of our new journeys to the
• All Viking excursion gear needed for any
relevant excursions ends of the earth, we are perfecting expedition
• 24-hour room service and speciality coffees, journeys and offering the opportunity to visit some
teas and bottled water
of the world’s most pristine destinations in the most
• Access to The Nordic Spa and state-of-the-art
fitness centre responsible way possible.
• Onboard gratuities
ORDER YOUR FREE 2024 EXPEDITION BROCHURE NOW

ON VIKING.COM OR CALL 020 8780 8701
For departures up to and including the 31st October 2023 our cruises are only available to guests who will have received both COVID-19 vaccinations a minimum of 2 weeks
prior to departure. Some countries may require a negative COVID-19 test to enter. You must have travel insurance that includes COVID-19 cover. For the latest updates on
our Health & Safety programme please visit viking.com. The UK Government list of countries where travel is permitted to can change on a regular basis and at short notice,
Viking cannot be held responsible if at any point before or during travel the advice changes which then requires guests to quarantine on their return. The Department of
Transport and The Foreign and Commonwealth Office have also issued advice which applies to cruises. If UK Government regulations or guidance prohibit or further restrict
travel either within the UK or abroad, then we may similarly have to cancel planned cruises, or amend itineraries or other conditions for travel at short or no notice. Please
refer to paragraph H.1 [and B2] in our Booking Terms and Conditions on our website viking.com for further information as to our cancellation policies in these circumstances.
TRENDING / HOT SPOT
PICTURE: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/ZIBA PHOTO MEDIA

ILULISSAT,
GREENLAND
Set on the west coast of Greenland and more
than 150 miles north of the Arctic Circle, Ilulissat
icefjord is not only one of the most awe-inspiring
highlights on an Arctic adventure, but also
one of the most scientifically important. The
name comes from the local Kalaallisut word for
‘icebergs’, apt as it is fed by the Sermeq Kujalleq
glacier, which produces a tenth of Greenland’s
calf ice – more than any glacier outside the
Antarctic – earning it a place on Unesco’s list of
protected World Heritage Sites. But unlike the
White Continent, this natural beauty spot is just
a few miles from a thriving town set on Disko
Bay, where rainbow-bright houses cluster along
the shore and whales and seals can be seen
gliding through the iceberg-strewn waters. It’s
also one of the highlights on Viking’s roster of
Arctic expeditions for summer 2025, with three
new itineraries exploring Greenland and the
Canadian High Arctic on expedition ships Viking
Octantis and Polaris, complete with onboard
experts and a fully equipped laboratory to
understand the scientific significance of the site.
+ Turn to page 42 to read more about glaciers

and whale spotting on a scenic cruise in Alaska

CADIZ,
SPAIN
Remember the famous scene in James Bond’s
Die Another Day, when a bright orange bikini-
clad Halle Berry emerges from the waves like a
modern-day Aphrodite? What claimed to be the
shores of Cuba was in fact filmed on Playa de
la Caleta in Cadiz, the ancient Andalusian city
and popular cruise port on the southwest coast
of Spain. It’s just been voted the top ‘hidden
gem’ destination for cruise travellers in a survey
by travel agency cruise.co.uk, which polled 700
customers about their favourite under-the-radar
spots. Within an easy walk of Cadiz cruise port,
you’ll find lofty viewpoints – the Tavira Tower
and Cadiz Cathedral tower offer panoramic
vistas across city and sea – historic landmarks
including an ancient Roman theatre and
18th-century castles that flank its golden-sand
PICTURE: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK PHOTO/HORSTGERLACH
beaches, plus plenty of places to explore, from

the peaceful Parque Genovés to the buzzing fish
stalls of local Mercado Central. Tony Andrews,
managing director of cruise.co.uk, says: “Cadiz
is an ideal cruise call as it has something for every
visitor, from stunning architecture to beautiful
gardens to a bustling central market. It also has
great food, including tapas bars and seafood
restaurants, with warm welcoming weather.”
+ Turn to page 28 for more European

cruise highlights

TRENDING / HOT SPOT

Discover the
Mediterranean Gems
Island Princess 12 Nights 30 Oct 2023

Itinerary
DAY 1 SOUTHAMPTON
Embark on a cruise from Southampton to the glorious
Make your way to Southampton and embark Island Princess. Set sail.
Mediterranean, including Cartagena, Palma, Palermo and ending with
two nights in the ancient city of Rome. Enjoy picturesque harbour’s, DAY 3 LA CORUNA
ancient ruins, stunning architecture, beautiful beaches, and famous
DAY 5 GIBRALTAR
landmarks. This promises to be a truly unforgettable experience.
DAY 6 CARTAGENA
What’s Included DAY 7 PALMA
10-night Mediterranean cruise on Island Princess DAY 9 PALERMO
Private transfers DAY 10 SALERNO
2-night stay at a 4 hotel in Rome (B&B) DAY 11 CIVITAVECCHIA (ROME)
Return flight to the UK
Disembark in Civitavecchia. Two-night stay at a four-star
hotel in Rome.
DAY 13 CIVITAVECCHIA (ROME)
Take your private transfer from the hotel to the airport for your flight
back to the UK.
Intermittent cruise days are at sea.
Cruise & Stay fares from

£1,099pp
Add Princess Plus - Includes drinks, Wi-Fi & crew appreciation
on your cruise from £50pp a day
Palermo
Date Quote ID Inside Oceanview Balcony
30 Oct 2023 36179 £1,019 £1,099 £1,279
Flight departing 11 Nov 2023 U26570 Rome/Gatwick 19:45/21:30. Operated by EasyJet.
Other airports may be available at a supplement.
Resort fees may apply, payable locally.
The Cruise Centre

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QUOTE: BCC REF 8176. ISSUED 28.06.23. Please see our website HYPERLINK “http://www.bolsovercruiseclub.com” www.bolsovercruiseclub.com for the most up to date offers and availability. A copy of Bolsover Cruise Club’s Terms year when you join
of Business is available on request or by visiting our website. The Bolsover Cruise Club package is booked under ATOL 11481 and ABTA Y6603. Advertised package price is based on 11 Nov 23 FIUMICINO/GATWICK 19:45/21:30. All
flights are operated by Easyjet. Ôther local airports may be availableat a supplement. Prices shown are subject to availability based upon 2 adults sharing the lowest available grade within the stateroom type specified. Prices and the Cruise Club
availability are correct at time of publishing and may go up or down. *BB: Hotel stay is on a bed and breakfast basis, resort fees may apply and are payable locally. Flights are financially protected by the ATOL scheme. When payment
is made an ATOL Certificate will be issued. Please see our booking conditions for further information about financial protection and the ATOL Certificate go to: HYPERLINK “http://www.atol.org.uk/ATOLCertificate” www.atol.org.uk/
ATOLCertificate. Travel insurance, visas & vaccinations are at an additional cost. Further terms conditions apply, please call for details. E&OE.
www.bolsovercruiseclub.com/into-the-blue
ECO ESCAPE
The Dominican Republic might be known for its sandy
beaches and crystal-clear waters, but look beyond its
coast, and you’ll find one of the most geographically
diverse countries in the Caribbean, where tropical
rainforests and mangrove-filled wetlands sit side by
side with desert dunes and alpine-style woodlands.
Los Haitises National Park (pictured) – which means
‘hilly land’ in the local Taino language – is a captivating
combination of towering rock formations jutting out of
the water and mangrove forests lining its shores, where
PICTURE: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK PHOTO/JOANNA GOLENIEWSKA
pelicans, frigate birds, herons, Antillean piculets, the

Hispaniolan woodpecker and the critically endangered
Ridgway’s hawk can be spotted. It’s one of the eco hot
spots that can be explored with new luxury cruise line
Explora Journeys on its maiden season in the Caribbean,
following the debut of first ship Explora I in July. Guests
stopping off in the Dominican Republic can choose from
cigar-making and culinary adventures in the port city of
Samaná or exploring the petroglyph-filled caves and
wildlife-rich mangroves of the national park.
explorajourneys.com

MI5 & APPLE
CHIEFS WILL
BE AMONG
SEABOURN’S
NEW LINE-UP
Luxury cruise line Seabourn has unveiled a
roster of guest speakers for its summer and
autumn cruises, including the co-founder of
tech giant Apple, Steve Wozniak; former head
of MI5, Dame Stella Rimington; and butler to
the British royal family, Grant Harrold. The Clockwise from main image: Former MI5 head
series will also include award-winning chefs, Dame Stella Rimington; Michelin-starred chef Robert
wine experts, polar explorers, Nasa astronauts Thompson; Heidemarie Stefanyshyn-Piper is a former
and celebrity photographers, each offering Nasa astronaut; Mike DeSimone and Jeff Jenssen are the
unique insight into their areas of expertise. World Wine Guys; mountain climber and polar explorer
The onboard enrichment programme is Alison Levine; Apple co-founder Steve Wozniak
running across various ships until November
2023, featuring lectures, hosted meals, onboard
sessions, shore excursions and social activities
with guests. It includes voyages themed around
wine, exploration and royal life.
Robert Thompson, the UK’s youngest
Michelin-starred chef and recipient of an MBE
in the King’s 2023 birthday honours; and
Alison Levine, pioneer of polar exploration and
leader of the first American Women’s Everest
Expedition are also among the starry line-up.
seabourn.com
+ Turn to page 21 for a Q&A with chef
Robert Thompson
GOING
F O R G O LD
Olympic fever is already taking
hold ahead of next year’s Paris
games, with spaces filling up
fast in advance of the flagship
sporting event. With hotel
accommodation already
booking up, luxury barge
cruise operator European
Waterways has seen an uptick Tick two trips off your travel bucket list with a new India
in demand over the Olympic rail-and-sail itinerary that pairs the Palace on Wheels
summer games period, from luxury train with a voyage on the Brahmaputra River.
July 25 to August 11, 2024, when Visit the glistening domes of the Taj Mahal in Agra,
15 million visitors are expected to admire the Palace of the Winds in Jaipur and see tigers
descend upon the country to enjoy on safari in Ranthambore, before going back to your
the fixtures. “We still have availability in personal butler and deluxe suite on board the train.
the weeks surrounding the Olympics,” says Keep up that level of luxury with a river cruise on the
managing director Derek Banks. “We are, however, Kindat Pandaw to explore tea gardens, tiny villages
advising guests to secure places now to avoid disappointment.” The and spot one-horned rhinos and Asian elephants in
company offers free chauffeur-driven Paris pick-ups for holidays on the national parks of Assam. The 21-night journey is
hotel barges Renaissance, L’Art de Vivre and La Belle Epoque. on sale with Fred Holidays, from £9,895 per person.
europeanwaterways.com fredholidays.co.uk

NEWS / TRENDING
R E A D Y , S E T, M E D !
A Greek Isles cruise and a tour of the Italian coast are
among new routes on offer from CroisiEurope as part
of its 2024 programme, with discounts of up to 15 per
cent for bookings before the end of September.
The French-owned line has branched out with seven-
night sailings around the Cyclades and Dodecanese
islands on board La Belle de l’Adriatique, calling at Syros,
Rhodes, Santorini, Milos and Amorgos. (April, May and
June, from £1,938 per person).
A cruise departing from Nice on La Belle des Oceans
also takes in the highlights of the Italian Riviera, Elba
and Sardinia, with visits to Livorno, Portoferraio,
Alghero, Porto Cervo and La Spezia (May-September,
from £2,555 per person). croisieurope.co.uk
YEARS
since San Francisco’s iconic cable cars
began operation, marked with a special
$5 day pass until the end of 2023
A fun-packed family zone, Park19,

is being developed for Princess
Cruises’ newest ship, Sun Princess,
when it launches next February.
Kids big and small can have a go on
the first ‘rollglider’ at sea – an
electric ride that can reach up to
11mph – plus a climbing wall, splash
F R ES H F RO N T I ER S zone and obstacle course, The Net.
The Lofoten Islands in Norway, Malmo in Sweden, Siglufjordur in Set across the three top decks of the
Iceland, Frederiksted in St Croix and three ports in Madagascar ship – the first in the new Sphere
are among the new destinations featured by Regent Seven Seas class – it’s a response to feedback
PICTURES: AEROPIX; CROISIEUROPE/FRANTISEK ZVARDON
Cruises in its latest range of sailings. requesting more activity spaces.

The 2025-26 Voyage Collection features 29 maiden ports of Alongside the outdoor area, there
call – the first time the company has visited that destination – and will also be Firefly Park for little ones
164 new routes all over the world. These include more journeys from six months to seven years old;
around Africa and Arabia than ever before, plus the ultra-luxury Neon Grove for tweens and The
line’s first sailings departing from Port Louis in Mauritius and from Underground for teenage movie
Doha in Qatar. rssc.com nights and parties. princess.com
NEWS / TRENDING
3 of
the
Best S AV I N G O U R S E A S
Marine biodiversity is the focus of a new partnership
between MSC Cruises and environmental DNA
specialist, NatureMetrics, announced as the line
HISTORICAL RIVER launched its latest ship, MSC Euribia.
CRUISES The partnership, in conjunction with the MSC
Foundation and the International Union for
Conservation of Nature, will collect biodiversity
data using DNA sampling of seawater to record
marine life in the oceans around MSC’s routes.
This will contribute to the eBioAtlas, a global
record aiming to reduce the loss of biodiversity.
1 / D-DAY ANNIVERSARY Dr Kat Bruce, founder of NatureMetrics,
Mark 2024’s 80th anniversary said: “Collaboration is crucial in our quest to halt
of D-Day by learning about and reverse the loss of biodiversity by 2030. MSC’s
northern France’s history on a pioneering work will unlock insights that allow us to
river cruise. Scenic has eight make informed decisions on marine conservation globally.
and 11-day trips to Normandy The time for action is now.”
and the Seine, with excursions MSC Euribia, which set sail in June, was the first to collect data,
to the Museum of the Battle followed by sister ships MSC Poesia and Preziosa. msccruises.co.uk
of Normandy, Juno Beach,
the Landing Museum at
Arromanches and the Bayeux
War Cemetery. scenic.co.uk
2 / NILE NEWS
With the long-awaited
opening of the Grand Egyptian
Museum, interest in the Nile
is growing. Hot on the heels
of its Egypt debut last year,
Viking has announced more
Nile departures on its new ship
Viking Hathor in 2024, sailing
a 12-day Pharaohs & Pyramids
itinerary. vikingcruises.co.uk
FIVE-STAR ADVENT URES

Who says adventure cruising means roughing it? Certainly not the
3 / FAIRYTALE CASTLES team behind the new suites on National Geographic Explorer, taking a
PICTURE: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK PHOTO/OLIVER RAULT;
Experience the medieval magic

of the Middle Rhine on a river new level of luxury to the world’s remotest destinations.
cruise that visits the fairytale- Eight refurbed suites feature Scandi-inspired design with light oak,
style castle of Drachensfels in
bronze and pops of aqua and blackcurrant, alongside high-tech tools,
SAIKO3P; DOUGLAS SCALETTA 2022
Königswinter, the inspiration

for Disney’s Sleeping Beauty
castle. Great Rail Journeys’
a National Geographic atlas, espresso maker and original artwork.
rail-cruise tour also includes Guests can also book a new Suite Exclusives package, offering
the Drachenfelsbahn railway.
greatrail.com
extras including a welcome gift, priority booking in the spa and
complimentary laundry. world.expeditions.com
ON A PREMIUM V LUE CRUISE
THE BEST V LU E AT S E A
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ambassadorcruiseline.com
Best Value for Best UK Mid-Size
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HEALTHY
HEBRIDES
Yoga, wellness and wildlife are
set to come together on a new
Hebrides Islands retreat this
summer. Hebrides Cruises’
Serenity at Sea holiday will take
guests to secluded spots around
the archipelago to practise yoga
under the watchful eye of expert
instructors from Beyond Asana.
In between meditation, reiki and
other wellness activities, go
whale-watching in the Sound of
Mull, view the colourful houses
of Tobermory and enjoy healthy
dishes from MasterChef: The
Professionals quarter-finalist
William Rocks. The six-night
cruise departs August 26, 2023,
and April 16, 2024.
hebridescruises.co.uk
Style on board
Update your packing
list with our pick of
must-have items
EL CAMINO PÉROLA SET POCKETALK

Treasure your travel memories Add a pop of colour to your Forget phrase books – this
– or carry your wish list with you – cover-up thanks to this summer handheld translator takes the hard
with bespoke bracelets (£26.99, set from Mabi Swimwear (£210, work out of learning the language
elcaminobracelets.com). mabiswimwear.com). (£209, available on Amazon).

TRENDING / LIFE & STYLE
BUYING 3 of
the
TIME
Keeping track of time is key on a cruise holiday
– no one wants to be that unlucky passenger
running to make it back before the ship sets sail –
Best
and now there’s no excuse with the luxury watch COCKTAI LS
boutiques being rolled out on new cruise ship
Explora I. Not only will you be able to pick up a Regent Seven Seas Cruises shares
Rolex – the first time the Swiss brand has been on recipes for some of its signature drinks
sale at sea – but you can also browse timepieces
from the likes of Cartier, Italian brand Panerai
and Swiss jeweller and watchmaker Piaget.
explorajourneys.com
ANIMAL
AT T R AC T I O N
If you’re anywhere near the British Library this
summer, be sure to check out new exhibition 1 / SPLENDOR
Animals: Art, Science and Sound, which is Take 45ml of Crown Royal whisky, 25ml
open until August 28. It features more than each of fresh lemon juice and ginger puree,
100 artworks, manuscripts, audio record- 15ml of honey syrup and three to five drops
ings and rare books – some of which are of citrus bitters to create this signature drink,
on display for the first time – exploring how named after Seven Seas Splendor.
people have recorded and documented
wildlife around the world over the past two
millennia. Stuart Boxall, head of corporate
relations at the British Library, says: “Animals
have fascinated people for as long as records
exist, and the desire to study, understand and
document the natural world has resulted in some
of humankind’s most awe-inspiring art, science and
sound recordings, which can be seen first-hand.” The
exhibition is supported by Ponant. bl.uk/events/animals
T R EN D WAT C H 2 / NAVIGATOR
This one is for gin fans, combining 60ml of
ART AND ARCHITECTURE AMONG TOP TRAVEL DRAWS Tanqueray (or your favourite equivalent)
were a bigger draw than wildlife, with a dash of St Germain elderflower
sunbathing spots or good exchange liqueur and around 45ml of sweet and sour
rates, according to the OnePoll mix for a refreshing cocktail with a twist.
survey of 2,000 UK adults.
The most sought-after sights
were the Parthenon in Athens, Trevi
Fountain in Rome, Michelangelo’s
PICTURES: WILL SMITH; BRITISH LIBRARY; RSSC/STEPHEN BEAUDET
David in Florence, the Mona Lisa

in Paris and Van Gogh Museum in
Amsterdam.
With new ship Norwegian Viva
launching in August on a series of
Do you come home with more photos of the Mediterranean sailings, NCL has commissioned
places you’ve seen than the people you were with? British artist Dominic Harris to create a digital
You’re not alone, according to research from artwork using his favourite motif of butterflies.
Norwegian Cruise Line, which found more than The piece, dubbed Every Wing has a Silver Lining, 3 / REGENT SEVEN SEAS
a fifth of people take more pictures of art and responds to movement so it comes to life as guests Mix 60ml of Absolut raspberry vodka, 30ml
architecture abroad than the friends or family go past. It will join six other sculptures dotted of apricot brandy liqueur and 30ml of sweet
they were travelling with. around The Concourse on the ship’s Ocean and sour mix to produce this signature
In fact, landmark buildings and art galleries Boulevard. ncl.com tipple, topped with red grapes for an extra
dash of sour-sweetness.

FOOD&DRINK
B I E N V EN IDOS
A MIA MI!
It’s home to the world’s busiest passenger-cruise port and a
perennially popular departure point for jaunts to the Caribbean,
but now Miami can add another claim to fame. The Florida hot
spot was named Food City of the Year 2023 by US magazine Bon different types of herbs are grown
Appétit, after dominating the rankings of the Michelin guide for
the second year in a row. With 11 restaurants given one-star status
onboard Scenic’s expedition ships, using
– including new addition Tambourine Room by Tristan Brandt – hydroponic farming methods, as regular
and L’Atelier by Joel Robuchon maintaining its two-star billing,
along with 18 Bib Gourmand honours highlighting good-value
soil is not allowed on cruise ships
dining, it’s worth flying out a few days before your cruise to get a
taste of the city’s culinary scene. guide.michelin.com

TRENDING / FOOD & DRINK
E AT U P O N
RO YA L’ S
N EW I CO N
Q
A new street-food hall, surf-and-turf taco joint
and private VIP dining room with sweeping
ocean views are among more than 20 new
food-and-drink venues set to debut on Royal
Caribbean’s Icon of the Seas when it launches
at the end of this year. Gourmet guests can try
everything from caviar to wagyu beef on the
eight-course, drink-paired menu at the Empire Robert Thompson MBE
Supper Club, with a three-piece band playing in the
background. Or opt for something more casual with a is the youngest chef to
choice of mac and cheese, fresh pittas and Korean beef at
the AquaDome Market food hall; taiyaki ice cream at the new
receive a Michelin star
Izumi in the Park and Insta-worthy shakes at milkshake bar
Desserted. royalcaribbean.com Q. What inspired your love of food?
A. From an early age, Mum and Dad cooked
all the time at home. My brother, Patrick,
SI P SI P HO ORAY! started catering college when I was 10 years
If you’re partial to a tipple or two as old, and that lit the fire for me – it wasn’t long
you watch the scenery go by, then the after that I was washing up in the sinks I could
next round’s on Riviera Travel, thanks have probably bathed in!
CHEERS TO THAT to the free drinks package on its 2024 Soon I progressed to making and serving
P&O Cruises has revamped its European river cruises. Worth £400
per person per week, it covers house
desserts, and from then on I was completely
infatuated with the kitchen. I watched
drinks packages for summer and wines, draught beer and soft drinks cooking programmes – Floyd, Marco, Blanc,
beyond, with discounts to be found at lunch, then from 6pm to midnight,
enjoy cocktails, spirits, aperitifs and
Rhodes, Stein – all the time.
for booking before you board. local wines with dinner. Don’t worry Q. Do you have a favourite ingredient?
if you’ve already booked – the offer A. One is rock samphire grass. I was unaware
Choose from four options, ranging applies to new and existing bookings of it before coming to the Isle of Wight, but
from soft drinks only up to across 13 itineraries. rivieratravel.co.uk now it’s a staple in my menus. I walk to the
south side of the island to gather it; 99 per
cocktails, spirits and wines in the cent of the time I’m on my own with just the
top-tier deluxe package, with prices sounds of the waves and seagulls.
ranging from £9.85 up to £49.45 Q. What can guests expect from your
per day when booked in advance. sailing as part of the Seabourn
Conversations programme?
pocruises.com A. My next voyage is in August, so the menu
is packed with all things summer. Guests
dining at the Colonnade can order my lightly
set parmesan cream, just baked in a dish and
topped with Isle of Wight tomatoes – some
fresh, some slightly dehydrated, which
turbocharges the flavour even more. I finish
SEADREAM YACHT this with a fresh tomato-water dressing,
CLUB TO RING IN 2025 slightly salty anchovy palmiers, herbs and
flowers. Then it’s cod fillet poached in beurre
Fancy seeing in the new year with some festive noisette and to finish, a rum baba with a
foodie flair? SeaDream Yacht Club has opened strawberry daiquiri twist.
bookings already for its Christmas and New
Year 2025 sailings in the Caribbean, where Q. Any favourite things about cruising?
PICTURES: LE JARDINIER/KATIE JUNE BURTON
culinary highlights will include a fine-dining A. It’s an absolute joy to cook in the stunning
experience in South Friar’s Bay, St Kitts; French kitchens aboard, and with a hard-working,
Caribbean fare in St Barts and Guadeloupe; and friendly team of individuals. I love just
a Champagne & Caviar Splash experience watching the world go by on the deck, and
(pictured) in the British Virgin Islands’ Jost van sunrise and sunset when there’s just ocean as
Dyke. Expect plenty of late nights in port so far as you can see – awesome!
you can head ashore and compare the cuisines of
each Caribbean island or enjoy alfresco dining + Read the full interview with chef Robert
with a view back onboard. seadream.com Thompson at cruiseandtravel.co.uk

POSTCARDS

From the fairytale charm of Quebec City to Aomori’s fusion of future and heritage,
via the vibrant passion of Buenos Aires, read on for top cultural cruise destinations
PICTURES: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK PHOTO/RUDOLF ERNST; TEMPURA/ELCASANELLES; MURA;
TODAMO; COWARD_LION; L’ORYGINE; DESTINATION QUEBEC CITE; VILLE DE QUEBEC

POSTCARDS
QUEBEC CIT Y
Get your fill of French-Canadian cuisine on a foodie
tour around the city on the banks of the St Lawrence
WORDS CLAIRE DODD
A s you might expect from somewhere

that so proudly celebrates its links
to France, Quebecers know great
food. In fact, the only problem with spending
a day in this striking city, topped by the
Built in 1884, it’s still up and running, with
plucky riders able to hit top speeds of up to
40 miles an hour.
Fine dining is plentiful too. With the
city surrounded by vast boreal forests, it’s
fairytale towers of the Fairmont Le Château no wonder many of its top chefs take both
Frontenac, is narrowing down where to eat. inspiration and ingredients from it. Among
Thankfully, numerous foodie tours – either them is L’Orygine in the Lower Town.
Clockwise from opposite, top: Petit-Champlain; organised via your cruise line or self-guided – Focused entirely on only local produce, chefs
tobogganing at the Château; Québécoise dining at make the job of finding the best a little easier. here use all parts of the animal or plant. A
L’Orygine; the city walls’ Saint-Louis Gate; fresh local If history’s your thing, costumed guides five-course, wine-matched discovery menu
produce; Fairmont Le Château Frontenac at sunset can walk you through 400 years of life in the of beef carpaccio, gnocchi, seared fish and
first city in New France – the only remaining mushroom tacos leaves me contentedly
walled city in North America, outside Mexico drifting into a post-meal food coma.
PICTURES: MARC GIGNAC; MELANIE JEAN/DESTINATION QUEBEC CITE; L’ORYGINE; MATHIEU
– whose fortified ramparts, towers and gates But arguably no one knows this land
are now a Unesco World Heritage Site. better than its Indigenous communities,
Stop at locally-loved dining spots along who have long used ingredients like sea
the way, like year-round sugar shack La buckthorn, balsam fir and game in their
Bûche, where I sample some rustic pea soup cooking. In the Old Town, the Indigenous-
DUPUIS; FRANCIS GAGNON; QUEBECREGIONGOURMANDE.COM
– a Quebec staple – made with yellow split owned Sagamité celebrates Huron-Wendat
peas. The cosy cabin-like restaurant prides culture. Order the namesake Sagamité soup,
itself on offering traditional fare with a which includes bison, elk and ground venison
modern twist. And though you’d usually have alongside the Wendat’s cherished “three
to wait until spring to sample maple taffy, sisters” staples. This combination of squash,
rolled on fresh snow, you can get it here any corn and red beans have been grown by the
time of year – but be warned, it’s sticky stuff! Wendat people for centuries in a tradition
For more sweet treats, try ice cream at the that still survives, against all odds.
▲
Château Frontenac, where I tread the boards

of its elegant promenade perched high above Lines that stop in Quebec City include NCL, Viking,
the twisting St Lawrence River. In winter, Oceania, Royal Caribbean, P&O Cruises, Princess, Fred
this is also where you’ll find the city’s famous Olsen, Ambassador, Silversea, Cunard, Celebrity, MSC,
– and slightly terrifying – toboggan run. Windstar, Seabourn, Ponant and Explora Journeys.

BUENOS L eaving behind the grand tombs of
Recoleta Cemetery for the bright
bustle of La Boca neighbourhood is
AIRES
like flipping from black-and-white to colour
TV. Rainbow shades aren’t in short supply
in vivacious Buenos Aires, but the cemetery
provides a bubble of solemnity, and an
Vibrant colour and rich culture opportunity to admire some post-life posing
courtesy of the city’s wealthiest deceased.
combine in Buenos Aires, set to “Where’s Evita’s tomb?” tourists repeatedly
welcome nearly half a million ask their guides. The modest final resting
cruise visitors this season place of Argentina’s former first lady is
the most popular in Recoleta’s network of
WORDS OLLY BECKETT avenues (her life is commemorated by a
simple plaque and endless floral offerings).
Many who visit Buenos Aires find a
distinctly European flavour, but it’s the
Clockwise, from top left: Tango dancers in excellent Argentinian food, eclectic
La Boca; La Plata Cathedral and Plaza Moreno architecture and buzzing South American
fountain; Caminito street; Recoleta Cemetery street scenes that are expected to draw
around 435,000 cruise visitors this 2023-24
season, on journeys hugging the coastline
of the continent or carrying on south to
Antarctica. And then, of course, there’s tango.
Only the intense passion of tango
dancers could distract me from the vibrant
blues, greens, reds and yellows of La Boca’s
buildings on pedestrianised ‘museum street’
Caminito. Once a dockyard area populated
by impoverished immigrants, in the 1950s
artist Quinquela Martín (after whom the
cruise terminal is named) transformed
Caminito into the vivid scene it is now.
I wasn’t alone in admiring the free tango
performances here (alfresco dancing seems to
be a theme here), as La Boca hummed with
happy tourists. It’s an apt place to watch, as
the dance was invented in these very streets –
I dare you to recreate it when back on board.
Norwegian Cruise Line offers a five-hour Buenos Aires

Highlights tour taking in Recoleta, Plaza de Mayo
square, La Boca and lunch on the Puerto Madero
waterfront, priced at £96, including airport transfer.
Other cruise lines visiting Buenos Aires include MSC
Cruises, Silversea, Princess and Hurtigruten.

POSTCARDS
AOMORI, JAPAN
Wooden temples, concrete dogs, the world’s juiciest apples and
one of the most colourful festivals in Japan – that’s Aomori
WORDS RUSSELL HIGHAM
A omori’s futuristic skyline, dominated

by a pyramid-shaped skyscraper,
seems to lean out as we approach on
Silversea’s Silver Muse, inviting us to explore
the streets beyond the cruise terminal.
Temple, site of the 70ft-high bronze Showa
Daibutsu, Japan’s largest seated Buddha
statue. In the Kondo (the temple’s main hall),
after watching the monks perform a short
concert using traditional instruments, I’m
The angular architecture of this vibrant served jasmine tea. Clockwise from above: Aomori’s distinctive waterside
city – set on the northern tip of Honshu, I take it outside and admire the karesansui skyline; Showa Daibutsu at Seiryu-ji Temple; Yoshimoto
Japan’s main island – is crowned by the (Zen rock garden), enjoying the fragrant tea Nara’s Aomori-Ken; an illuminated Nebuta Festival float
rugged Hakkōda mountains, which lie and the sense of calm as my eyes wander
13 miles southeast and are popular with over the smooth sand and stone sculptures. It
climbers, skiers and snowboarders. The two neighbours an exquisite five-storey pagoda,
landscapes somehow complement each other, one of Japan’s tallest, each level representing,
a reflection of this highly urbanised country’s according to Buddhist tradition, the sacred
harmonious relationship with nature. elements of earth, water, fire, wind and sky.
The Japanese love Aomori for its juicy red Contrastingly, the sleek, low-slung, secular
apples (the climate’s extreme temperature architecture of Aomori Museum of Art,
differences help cultivate the world’s designed by Jun Aoki – better known for
finest, apparently) and for its 300-year-old his Tokyo temple to the god of retail: Louis
Nebuta Festival, held each August, when Vuitton – almost commits the sacrilege of
a population of 300,000 swells to nearly upstaging the collection inside. Salvation is
3 million. They flock here to admire the at hand, though, from selfies taken between
ornately decorated floats, each brightly lit the paws of giant concrete dog, Aomori-Ken,
and painted with historical kabuki figures by local-born artist Yoshimoto Nara. C T &
from Japanese folklore, then paraded through

the city to music and Haneto dancing. Cruise lines calling at Aomori include Silversea
I’m too early for the festivities, so instead Cruises, Seabourn, Princess, Celebrity, Holland
visit Nebuta Wa-Rasse Museum, where America Line, Cunard and Azamara.
some of these floats, and the stories behind
them, are displayed to dramatic effect. + For more tips on your favourite cruise
Aomori is also home to Seiryu-ji destinations, go to cruiseandtravel.co.uk
PICTURES: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK PHOTO/TODAMO; DIEGOGRANDI; NATALIA SO; SEANPAVONEPHOTO;
PIXHOUND/CHISANU LIENGPAN; COWARD_LION; ALAMY STOCK PHOTO/COWARD_LION

PICTURES: ALAMY STOCK PHOTO/ TUUL AND BRUNO MORANDI

CROATIA
ADRIATIC DREAMS
Get up close to the Croatian coast on a yacht cruise that spends more time ashore
WORDS REBECCA BARNES

he yacht slips into the harbour in Zadar, and we
step ashore to the sounds of the Sea Organ, an art
installation that uses the ebb and flow of the ocean
to create a soothing melody.
As we’re docking overnight in this ancient port Clockwise from above: The harbour at Zadar; the People’s Square;
city, which at one stage rivalled Venice as the most with its rugged shores and azure waters, the Dalmatian riviera offers
influential on the Adriatic coast, there’s plenty of time to explore. spectacular vistas; Zadar’s Church of St Donatus and Roman Forum
Our 36-passenger yacht, Princess Eleganza, is moored close to
myriad restaurants and bars, so after wandering the streets, we
dine in a buzzy restaurant before enjoying late-night drinks in an
old town bar.
It’s a treat not to have to clock-watch and rush back for a
departure before midnight, as this APT Travelmarvel cruise is all
about the slow-travel experience and allowing guests to make the
most of each and every port of call.
In the new age of travel, many of us are looking for authentic,
experiential holidays with flexibility to explore at our own pace.
This makes a small-ship cruise an obvious choice, with fewer
passengers, more space, calls into smaller ports – often those that
bigger ships cannot access – plus more time ashore to soak up the
local culture.
It feels indulgent to be staying longer than other cruise ships,
PICTURES: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK PHOTO/XBRCHX; BELIEVE_IN_ME
and the next morning we start the day with breakfast and a good
view across the historic city, before an included walking tour with
a local guide. Our route includes the circular Church of St Donat
and the 13th century Romanesque cathedral, heading back to set
sail just in time for lunch.
The itinerary is half-board, with breakfast and either lunch or
▲
In the new age of travel, many of us are looking for authentic,

experiential holidays with flexibility to explore at our own pace
CROATIA
PRINCESS
ELEGANZA
The 36-guest yacht was built in 2015 and refurbished

in 2022 to make over its exterior, restaurant and public
areas. The atmosphere is relaxed, informal and friendly,
and although my en-suite cabin only has two small
portholes, it doesn’t feel cramped; plus the bathrooms are
surprisingly spacious with good storage. Expect overnight
stops along the way, and when you’re not sampling
the local cuisine ashore, menus onboard feature fresh
Mediterranean fare. You’ll get the chance to take a dip in
the sea straight from the yacht’s swimming platform, but
the real star of the show is the scenery, and the spacious
sun and promenade decks provide a great vantage point
for frontline views of the beautiful coastline and islands.

C R O A T I A’ S
TOP SPOTS
RAB is often lauded as the best tourist destination in the
Adriatic – visit for the pristine old town, stunning medieval
architecture and long, slender coastline. When visiting in
the summer months, make the most of the early evening
warmth to enjoy sundowners before heading back to the
Princess Eleganza.
KRKA NATIONAL PARK in Sibenik features the multi-

tiered Skradinski Buk waterfall – the longest waterfall on
the Krka River – and many shady trails. Try and spot one of
the 19 species of resident reptiles and look out for the many
endemic plants en route that brighten up the walk.
VIS, closed to foreigners until 1991, was a major player in

the Second World War. Croatia’s greenest island is also
home to Komiža, a bohemian harbour town with narrow
back-streets and chilled-out cafes.

CROATIA
dinner on the yacht. This gives you the freedom to explore and Clockwise from above: Historic Korcula’s waterfront views; while
discover the destinations – and their top-rated restaurants – at sailing, the Princess Eleganza’s sun deck is the place to be; the island of
your leisure. Vis is home to lots of traditional rustic Dalmatian architecture, including
With time on our hands in breezy Korčula, we climb a steep ancient city walls; with a bohemian, laid-back vibe, coastal town Komiža
ladder to the rooftop of Massimo cocktail bar, where the drinks on Vis looks out over a sparkling blue bay
are delivered to customers via a pulley system – and it pays not to
overindulge when the time comes to descend back to terra firma.
Sailing at a leisurely pace from one destination to the next, I
relish relaxing on the sun deck and soaking up the ever-changing
Dalamatian-coast views. The Adriatic Sea is generally calm,
although the Bura wind can be pretty strong at times.
Croatia has a fascinating history, so it’s a real bonus to have
shore excursions included. I enjoy wandering picturesque streets
in the bohemian coastal resort of Komiža in Vis, and discovering
a faded airstrip in the centre of the island which was once used by
Second World War aircraft in distress.
Nature also features heavily in this sailing and we indulge in
PICTURES: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK PHOTO/GERIBODY; ALEX KOTLOV; DREAMER4787; XBRCHX;
some forest bathing at the fertile Krka National Park in Sibenik

and witness a spectacular sunset in Zadar – the place filmmaker
Alfred Hitchcock once proclaimed to have the very best sunsets
in the world.
This intimate itinerary is perfect for those looking to experience
the charm of smaller port towns, while enjoying the freedom and
ALAMY STOCK PHOTO/JOANA KRUSE; PANTHER MEDIA GMBH
flexibility of a voyage with few restrictions and plenty of leisurely

time ashore. C T
&
GETTING THERE
APT Travelmarvel’s eight-day Adriatic Coast & Dalmatian
Islands itinerary from Dubrovnik to Zagreb, starts from £2,195
per person, including return flights from the UK, transfers, tea,
coffee, soft drinks, beer and local wine during lunch and dinner.
aptouring.co.uk

DISCOVER A NEW DESTINATION TODAY,
THEN ANOTHER ONE TOMORROW!
Experience the best of Europe on the most port-rich itineraries with NCL
When you cruise Europe with NCL, you’ll unpack once and wake up to a new, iconic destination nearly every
day. With the most port-rich itineraries and overnight stays, you’ll have plenty of time to explore. Soak in a
stunning sunset. Or stroll through a vineyard in Tuscany — with a glass of wine in hand! Want to feel like
a local? Our Go Local shore excursions let you immerse yourself in the sights, sounds and culture with a
small, intimate group. Back on board, recount your incredible day over dinner at one of our many speciality
restaurants, catch a Broadway show or simply relax in our spa. The world is waiting. All you need to do is
spin the globe and go.
EUROPE’S LEADING
CRUISE LINE
15 Years in a Row
World Travel Awards
2022 worldtravelawards.com
10-DAY MEDITERRANEAN: 11-DAY MEDITERRANEAN: 12-DAY EUROPE:

ITALY, FRANCE & SPAIN TO LISBON ITALY, SPAIN & CROATIA TO ITALY, FRANCE, SPAIN & PORTUGAL TO
FROM ROME (CIVITAVECCHIA) PROVENCE (MARSEILLE) FROM VENICE (TRIESTE) ROME (CIVITAVECCHIA) FROM BILBAO
NORWEGIAN GETAWAY | 27 AUG 2023 NORWEGIAN EPIC | 28 AUG 2023 NORWEGIAN GEM | 19 SEP 2023
Barcelona, Spain Cavtat, Croatia Saint-Tropez, France
INSIDE FROM BALCONY FROM INSIDE FROM BALCONY FROM INSIDE FROM BALCONY FROM
£ 665 PP **
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£ 1,390 PP**
*Terms and conditions apply, see ncl.com for full details and promotion validity dates, lead prices correct at time of going to print. Lead prices are shown in £GBP and based on cruise only and
dual occupancy including government taxes, port expenses and fees. NCL reserves the right to correct any errors, inaccuracies or omissions and to change or update fares, fees and surcharges
at any time without prior notice. General excise tax (GET), discretionary onboard service charges and gratuities additional. Offers non-transferable, non-refundable, have no monetary value and
SCAN ME TO
LEARN MORE
14-DAY ICELAND:
REYKJAVIK, BELFAST & PARIS (LE HAVRE)
ROUND-TRIP SOUTHAMPTON
NORWEGIAN PRIMA | 17 SEP 2023
ALWAYS INCLUDED
Unpack once and experience Private stateroom Complimentary meals,

multiple destinations of your choice snacks and treats
Isafjordur, Iceland
Evening entertainment, Daytime activities such as Youth programmes

including award-winning aqua parks, sports deck, and kids clubs
Broadway-style shows! games & more
FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO BOOK

CALL: 0333 336 1472, SEE YOUR TRAVEL AGENT
INSIDE FROM BALCONY FROM
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Grosvenor Square, Southampton, SO15 2JU. ©2023 NCL Corporation Ltd. Ships’ Registry: Bahamas and USA. 1113550 08/23
CARIBBEAN
TROPICAL
TASTES
Go beyond the beaches with a culinary cruise
that offers a flavour of the Caribbean
WORDS JULIE PEASGOOD
PICTURE: OCEANIA CRUISES/ADOBE STOCK/NAPA74

38
CARIBBEAN
CRUISE & TR AVEL | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2023

CRUISE ANDTR AVEL.CO.UK
PICTURES: NICOLE’S TABLE; GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK PHOTO/PEETER VIISIMAA; WILDROZE; NAPA74
can’t believe I’m wandering the aisles of a Caribbean
supermarket searching for Angel Delight – yes, the wobbly
dessert I begged my mum for when I was a kid – or at least its
American equivalent, Jell-O.
Having relinquished the delights of the palm-fringed,
icing-sugar beaches of Antigua, foregone my daily round of
putting on the sports deck and sacrificed my favourite Maguro
burger in the Waves Grill (mouthwatering soy-ginger marinated
ahi tuna, laced with wasabi-garlic mayonnaise), instead I’m
shopping for several packets of instant vanilla pudding.
It will be worth it to replicate the world’s best-ever rum
cake. Apparently, vanilla Jell-O is the crucial secret ingredient
guaranteeing the lightest of creations fit for a Paul Hollywood
handshake. While I can’t bake it in my stateroom on Oceania
Cruises’ ship, Sirena – which although large and wonderfully
well-equipped, doesn’t contain an oven – I’ll be donning my
From her home in the hills of Antigua, commanding stunning views of St

John’s Harbour, chef Nicole offers expert tuition in delicious local dishes
pinny the minute I’m home. “As a small country, it punches way above its weight when it
I blame chef Nicole Arthurton Dennis for my newfound comes to athletes, music and, of course, rum,” says Adam. And
patisserie-chef zeal, after her cooking class – Nicole’s Table, at 63 per cent proof, this Jamaica-made sugar-cane elixir also
Cooking with Rum – turned me and my husband, Patrick, into knocks your socks off !
rum aficionados for evermore. Our food arrives just in time and it’s amazing, even if we say
From her home in the hills of Antigua, commanding stunning it ourselves, ending with a delicious rum syrup to pour over what
views of St John’s Harbour, chef Nicole offers expert tuition is our finest moment – the cake. With a recipe that has even
in delicious local dishes, such as sweet potato soup with rum, inspired Ainsley Harriott, a past visitor and fan of Nicole’s, it’s a
plantain crisps with a zesty sour cream dip and rum and brown superb ending to a fun and inspirational experience.
sugar chicken with onion jam. Cooking at home with Nicole is a prime example of the
While we wait for our rum-infused concoctions to emerge tempting, one-of-a-kind excursions in Oceania’s Caribbean
from the oven, Nicole’s husband, Adam, gives an enlightening programme. We choose between a gentle hike through the
mini-masterclass on the delights of this aromatic spirit. rainforest in St Vincent, visiting a rum distillery and lush
“Rum is an expression of culture,” he enthuses. We learn that botanical gardens in Martinique, a fire limbo show in Trinidad,
toasty, aged dark rum can be served neat on the rocks or with a an adventurous treetop walk in Guadeloupe and even swimming
splash of water and sipped just like whisky. For white, gold and with stingrays in Antigua.
spiced rum, think tropical cocktails, while VSOP denotes Very In the exclusive isle of St Barts, one of the most refined resorts
Special Old Pale. we visit while on our Caribbean sailing, larger vessels aren’t
There are just 10 in our excursion group, and having already allowed to access the port, but Sirena’s smaller size fortunately
bonded over our joint culinary endeavours, the generous shots qualifies for entry.
from the myriad rums our host dispenses ensure that there’s The capital, Gustavia, is an arresting architectural mix of
even more laughter to come. I’m rather taken with a white, Caribbean and French with a dash of Swedish, boasting good
award-winning variety from Jamaica. beaches (though they can get crowded), duty-free shops and
▲
Left, top row: Hands-on cooking classes at Nicole’s Table; the postcard-perfect Carlisle Bay in Antigua; one of Nicole’s recipes includes plantain crisps with sour cream dip
Middle row: St Lucia’s twin pitons; Caribbean rum cake; hibiscus is used in local cuisine; Bottom row: Learn to make Caribbean seafood at Nicole’s Table; relaxing with
the group to enjoy the view; Nicole’s classes include rum tasting Above: St John’s is the colourful and vibrant port capital of Antigua and Barbuda

CARIBBEAN
3 OF THE BEST
OCEANIA FOODIE FAVOURITES
RED GINGER
The vibrant green sesame wakame salad in this speciality
restaurant is so delicious I couldn’t help going back for
more. Even the chopsticks have their own menu.
Back on board Sirena, we unwind in the

HUMPHRY SLOCOMBE ICE CREAM sanctuary of our stateroom, with its
huge, downy bed and Bulgari toiletries
Known as gourmet ice cream for adults, the array of
unconventional flavours of this sweet onboard treat range
from ‘Toast and Jam’ to ‘Elvis, the Fat Years’, namely
roasted banana ice cream with bacon peanut brittle.
upmarket boutiques, ideal for exploring on your own.
When we arrive in St Lucia, we opt for something a little
more sedate than our last visit – joining fellow thrillseekers on
an adrenaline-charged zipline excursion – and instead opt to
make our own beeswax candles.
Sandwiched by a short talk at the Iyanola Apiculture
Collective about the history of beekeeping (who knew bees had
five eyes?), a demonstration of gathering honeycomb from the
hives and even a taste of fresh, raw honeycomb, we get to the
heart of the experience: experimenting with adding our own
combinations of essential oils to make unique scented candles.
I’m not sure I could bring myself to light my first lemongrass,
bergamot and ylang ylang creation (plus it smells lovely just as it
TOSCANA is) but it has fired me up to learn more.
The bread basket alone is a work of art here, with the Back on board Sirena, we unwind in the sanctuary of our
accompanying oils afforded as much importance as the stateroom with its huge, downy bed and high-end Bulgari
PICTURES: MICHEL VERDURE; OCEANIA CRUISES; GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK PHOTO/MJL PHOTOGRAPHY

wine list, not to mention the rest of the delectable menu in toiletries. The good food continues, not least at breakfast, with
this Italian-inspired speciality restaurant. the best scrambled eggs I’ve ever tasted – as a veteran of 92
cruises, I’ve sampled my fair share of onboard eggs, and these
take some beating.
And near the Grand Dining Room, with its spectacular
centrepiece light feature, is Baristas, one of our favourite haunts
where the coffee is consistently good and always served in style.
Now I just need a slice of that rum cake... C T &
GETTING THERE
Oceania Cruises offers a 12-night Caribbean Splendour
Miami round-trip cruise onboard Sirena, visiting Puerto Rico,
Antigua, Dominica, Barbados, St Lucia, St Kitts and the British
Clockwise from top left: Learn about the history of beekeeping on Virgin Islands, starting from £6,119 per person for a Veranda
an Oceania Cruises excursion in St Lucia; Sirena’s Grand Dining Room Stateroom, including flights and airport transfers.
is a spectacular spot to enjoy dinner, with a daily-changing menu that oceaniacruises.com
includes a range of healthy options and plant-based dishes

Best of Jamaica. On Repeat.
Montego Bay | Falmouth | Ocho Rios | Port Antonio | Port Royal @cruisejamaica
@portauthorityja
ALASKA
THE CALL OF
THE WILD
Glimpsing whales off a windswept coast,
hiking through a rainforest and coming up
close to towering glaciers – an Alaska cruise
entices those in search of a thrilling escape
WORDS LAURA FRENCH

“ t’s the wildness, the vastness and the total remoteness that first
drew me to Alaska,” says hiking guide Riley, a hardy Arizonian
who’s spent every summer here for the past 12 years. “This
is a place unlike anywhere else I’ve ever been – there’s just
something special about it.”
It’s not hard to see what he means. We’re kayaking on a
lake so still it feels ethereal, and the scene is made all the
more serene by the faint hum of birdsong and the calming swish
of paddles as they glide gently through the water. To my left, a
carpet of Christmas-green spruce trees covers the banks, perfectly
reflected in the lake below; up ahead, snow-dusted mountains rise
like something from a pop-up picture book, shining bright and
dazzling white beneath a dizzying sun.
I stop and float for several minutes, drinking in the cool, crisp
air as I take in the full power of my surroundings, then paddle
back to shore to toast marshmallows on an open fire, with the
smell of burning wood and sound of crackling embers completing
this dreamlike vision.
Afterwards, we hike along a bed of squishy green moss under
the cover of fragrant cedar trees, air cold and damp as we glimpse
a huge waterfall crashing down the cliffs. Then hop on a boat back
to Sitka – the postcard-pretty town with a population of less than
9,000 – where we docked earlier that morning, once the Russian
capital of Alaska and now reachable only by sea or air.
RAINFOREST ROAMING
I’m exploring the Tongass rainforest – the largest temperate
rainforest on the planet, sprawling across 17 million acres – on an
excursion with Princess Cruises.
It’s one of the standouts on a seven-day cruise through southern
Alaska on Discovery Princess, which takes us from the cherry
blossom-filled streets of Vancouver to the towering skyline of
Seattle, via Juneau, Sitka and Ketchikan. By now I’ve started to get
Clockwise from left: Princess guests can hike through Alaska’s forests
to see waterfalls; immerse yourself in nature by kayaking the state’s
tranquil lakes; befriend a grizzly bear – from a safe distance; bald
eagles soar over the snow-capped mountains; a humpback whale
breaches out of the water in Frederick Sound, Alaska

ALASK A
Then the magic happens, and the

inky silhouette of a humpback arches
out of the water, a jet of spray
spluttering majestically in the air
PICTURES: PRINCESS; GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK PHOTO/WANDERLUSTER; MSCORNELIUS; DAVID HOFFMANN PHOTOGRAPHY
used to these vast, extraordinary landscapes, as rich in culture and

history as they are in natural beauty.
In Juneau, the state capital, we head out on a whale-watching
trip to learn more about the animals’ annual 3,000-mile migration
from Hawaii, when several thousand humpbacks come to feast
before returning to the tropics to give birth.
Along the way, we witness a huddle of sea lions camouflaged
against the rocks and watch as snow-faced bald eagles soar
proudly overhead.
After an hour of scanning the calm sea, we spot a black blob in
the distance and approach. Then the magic happens and the inky
silhouette of a humpback arches out of the water, a jet of spray
spluttering majestically into the air.
A few minutes later we get closer still, and watch as its sleek,
▲

ALASKA
Clockwise from opposite page: Keep your camera ready for wildlife
sightings from deck and on land; get the authentic Alaskan experience
at the Red Dog Saloon in Juneau; take in the awe-inspiring views of the
Glacier Bay from Discovery Princess; witness timber-chopping contests
at the Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show while in Ketchikan
In Juneau, we visit the Red Dog Saloon to see Alaskan memorabilia on

wood-covered walls as a folk guitarist entertains the crowd; then tuck into
fresh sockeye salmon cooked on an open flame at the Alaska Salmon Bake
slippery body ducks into the ripples just a few metres from the
boat. Seconds later, it has disappeared, an extraordinary moment
made all the more special by its fleetingness.
EXPLORING ALASKA
There are plenty more adventures to be had. From Ketchikan, we
head out on an adventure-karting excursion, driving a four-wheel
buggy through pot-holed, forested dirt tracks as deer dart in and
PICTURES: PRINCESS; GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK PHOTO/RUBEN RAMOS;ALAMY STOCK PHOTO/RON NIEBRUGGE
out of the trees and mud covers our visors.

We stop at various places along the way as our guide tells us
about the local surroundings and wildlife – including more black
bears than humans, alongside a decent population of moose and
wolves – before pointing out a remote island in the distance where
children from the local school are sent to camp out for three days
in a test of shipwreck survival.
In between excursions, we have time to explore the towns at
leisure. In Juneau, we visit the famous Red Dog Saloon to see
Alaskan memorabilia hanging on wood-covered walls as a folk
guitarist entertains the crowd; then tuck into fresh sockeye salmon
cooked on an open flame at the Alaska Salmon Bake, where
outdoor tables sit beneath fairy-lit canopies.
In Sitka, we browse local craft stores and Alaskan gold jewellery
shops set against a backdrop of snow-capped mountains; and
in Ketchikan we catch the Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show,
where teams battle it out in a series of humorous wood-chopping
contests, while the audience whoops and cheers them on.
It’s not just about the shoreside experience, of course. On board,
we’re kept entertained with a roster of activities, most memorably
an enrichment session on life in the Alaskan wilderness, plus a
▲

S E AT T L E ’ S
TOP SIGHTS
THE SPACE NEEDLE
This 160m-high tower
pierces the city’s skyline
offering 360-degree
views from its floor-to-
ceiling observation deck,
with a rotating glass
floor that provides a
dizzying perspective
on the world below.
spaceneedle.com
CHIHULY GARDEN AND GLASS Showcasing work

by famous glassblower and Washington-state native Dale
Chihuly, this gallery features colourful installations amid
plants and flowers. chihulygardenandglass.com
When I’m not watching the world pass by

PIKE PLACE MARKET Seattle is famous for its food
scene, and at its heart is this legendary market, opened in
from a Jacuzzi on deck, I try line dancing
1907 and home to the world’s oldest Starbucks alongside
more than 200 craft and food vendors. Opt for a tour with
and catch a live ice-sculpting demonstration
chef Traci, owner of Atrium Kitchen, followed by a home-
cooked meal in her restaurant. atriumkitchenpikeplace.com talk from local dog musher Libby Riddles, the first woman to win
the 1,100-mile Iditarod sled dog race.
Other activities on the line’s Alaska cruises include meet-and-
greets with park rangers, onboard lumberjack demonstrations and,
for cruises that stop in Skagway, the chance to pet husky puppies
and meet their dog mushers.
When I’m not watching the world pass by from a Jacuzzi on
deck, I try my hand at line dancing, take part in a scavenger hunt
and catch a live ice-sculpting demonstration – in between eating
and drinking my way round the ship’s 19 bars and restaurants.
Favourites include speciality Italian restaurant Sabatini’s, all-day
buffet World Fresh Marketplace, and the Crown Grill, where
we indulge in a new Winemaker Dinner featuring five elegantly
SNOQUALMIE FALLS Head out of the city to these presented courses, paired with top-class tipples.
impressive falls, where a mass of white water tumbles Evenings, meanwhile, bring an impressive line-up of shows
82m down the rocks, with evergreen trees all around. First including Rock Opera, featuring skin-tingling performances from
Nature Tours can arrange bespoke tours pairing the falls The Greatest Showman and other musicals, and a mind-bending
with local winery visits. firstnaturetours.com show by illusionist David Gatti.
But the most significant onboard experience comes when
we pass the Hubbard Glacier – the largest tidewater glacier in
North America at an impressive 76 miles long. As we approach,
mountains surround us at every turn, capped with clouds and
blanketed in snow. The water glimmers, calm and flat, as blocks
of ice scatter its surface.
Eventually we get close enough to see a long, towering wall
▲
Clockwise from top left: Take in some Indigenous history at the

Totem Bight State Historical Park near Ketchikan; while onboard,
sample the menu at Sabatini’s Italian trattoria; Portage Glacier is on
the Kenai Peninsula; Ketchikan’s historic Creek Street boardwalk

PICTURES: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK PHOTO/AIISHA5; EGEXPLORER; PEETERV; LITOTA; CLAUDINEVM; ALAMY STOCK PHOTO/MARC HAYDON; PRINCESS

C
AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2023 | CRUISE & TR AVEL

49
ALASKA
ALASKA
We get close enough to see a long, towering wall of ultramarine

ice, floating like a block of polystyrene above the milky blue
of ultramarine ice, floating like a block of polystyrene above the
milky blue water.
It’s a surreal scene – a backdrop that looks like it’s been
photoshopped against the outline of the ship – and a reminder
that the real star of the show here is nature.
As we sail around this otherworldly landscape, Riley’s words are
in my head – Alaska’s wildness, vastness and total remoteness. It’s
the type of place that warrants more than just one visit – and after
just a week here, I can already see why so many find themselves
coming for one season and staying for decades. Something tells
me I’ll be back again. C T
PICTURES: FILIPPO VINARDI; GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK PHOTO/DON MENNIG
&
+ For more Alaska cruise inspiration, go to cruiseandtravel.co.uk

GETTING THERE
A seven-night Inside Passage Vancouver-Seattle voyage on
Discovery Princess starts from £799 per person for a Standard
Interior stateroom (cruise-only). An all-inclusive Princess Plus
package costs an extra £50 per person per day, including select
alcoholic drinks, unlimited juices and smoothies, two fitness
classes and Wi-Fi, or upgrade to Princess Premier (£65 per day)
Clockwise from above: The Discovery Princess takes adventurous for a wider selection of drinks, two speciality dinners, unlimited
travellers from Vancouver to Seattle via southern Alaska; the Hubbard fitness classes and more. princess.com
Glacier is the largest tidewater glacier in North America

Drinks Wi-Fi Gratuities
Add Princess Plus†

from £50pp per day
When you don’t need to worry about anything, you can fall in love with everything. With every Princess Cruises holiday,
you'll have the opportunity to create unforgettable memories, connect with the world around you, spend quality time
with loved ones, and enjoy some much-needed relaxation. Let Princess Cruises take care of everything, so you can
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Sun 19 Naples (Capri & Pompeii) Wed 29 Messina (Sicily) Tue 4 Copenhagen Tue 11 Visby
Tue 21 Santorini Thu 30 Naples (Capri & Pompeii) Wed 5 Warnemunde (Berlin) Thu 13 Kristiansand
Thu 23 Istanbul Fri 7 Stockholm (overnight in port) Sat 15 Southampton
Fri 24 Mykonos JUNE 2024
Sat 25 Piraeus (Athens) Sat 1 Barcelona, fly to London*
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available grade within the stateroom type specified and include taxes, fees and port expenses. †Princess Plus includes the Plus Beverage Package, single device Wi-Fi plan and daily crew appreciation, two premium crafted desserts,
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2024
The River Cruising Difference

for Solo Travellers
With 35 unique itineraries to choose from on the Rhine, Danube, Rhône, Seine and Douro rivers,
Tauck river cruises offer ample opportunities for meaningful connections with like-minded
guests aboard our intimately sized ships – the perfect choice for solo travellers.
Distinctively Inclusive Uniquely Tauck

Solo travellers enjoy great inclusive value with special pricing in Destination inspired, Tauck’s cultural discoveries and private
select cabins. Guided shore excursions, exclusive experiences, experiences are unique to the places you explore with us.
fine dining, complimentary beverages, wine and spirits aboard Think royal palace dinners, wine tastings, early opening and
ship, plus all gratuities are included in one upfront price. after-hours visits to landmark sites and more, Tauck guests only.
Fewer Guests & More Tauck Staff Onboard No Single Supplement on European River Cruises
Our custom riverboats offer the most space per guest on The single price in our Category 1 cabins is the same as the
Europe’s rivers. With no more than 98 or 130 guests aboard, a double price for savings of up to 50% on every river cruise
Tauck Director for every 35 guests plus a Tauck Cruise Director, departure. We also offer special savings for guests booking a
you can indulge in attentive personal service onboard and ashore. single cabin in different categories on select itineraries.
For more information or to book, contact your preferred travel advisor or contact Tauck at 0800 810 8020
Please visit tauck.co.uk for complete details on our 150+ worldwide journeys
Landtours Ltd t/as Tauck, 301 Watling Street, Radlett WD7 7LA
10 of
the
SOLO RIVER CRUISES
Best
CRUISES
With small ships and a friendly
atmosphere, river cruises are a
great choice for solo travellers
WORDS JEANNINE WILLIAMSON
1 ASIAN ADVENTURE
While many mainstream lines sail on the Lower Mekong
through Vietnam and Cambodia, small-ship specialist
Pandaw offers expedition voyages on the lesser-known upper
reaches of the river in Laos. Venture into the heart of south-
east Asia’s smallest country on a charming 28-passenger vessel
with gleaming teak decks and brass fittings. There’s no single
supplement on this fascinating cruise from the Thai border to
Vientiane, the capital of Laos. You’ll sail past a backdrop of
jungle-clad peaks, gorges, temples and Buddha statues and even
navigate some thrilling rapids. Authentic shore tours feature
unscripted walks through remote villages where western visitors
are a rarity, so you’ll be warmly welcomed and may even be
invited inside local homes. You’ll also see a display of traditional
Laotian dancing, known for its graceful hand movements; have
lessons in the local language; visit an elephant rescue sanctuary;
and spend time at Ock Pop Tok, a social enterprise that provides
employment and opportunities for women from nearby villages.
PICTURE: PANDAW
The nine-night Laos Mekong: Chiang Khong to Vientiane itinerary

on Sabaidee Pandaw, departing December 11, starts from £3,492.
pandaw.com
▲

2 FLOAT THROUGH FRANCE
Enjoy an exclusive taste of the Burgundy wine region
on one of Riviera Travel’s dedicated cruises for single
travellers, which offer value for money and an opportunity to sail
with like-minded shipmates. None of the cabins carry a premium,
which means you can treat yourself to a balcony suite for the same
price as two people sharing it. Excursions include Avignon, where
the Unesco-listed Palace of the Popes is one of Europe’s largest
medieval gothic buildings, and a visit to the cellars of a leading
winemaker for a tour and tasting. It’s also worth noting that on
every Riviera cruise, a number of double cabins are set aside for
single occupancy with no single supplement.
The seven-night Burgundy, River Rhône and Provence sailing on
Lord Byron departing April 3, 2024, starts from £2,349, including
flights. rivieratravel.co.uk
3 ANCIENT TREASURES
Sail back in time on Saga’s Nile cruise, created especially
for solo travellers aged 50-plus, with perks including
chauffeur-driven airport transfers. After three relaxing nights
at a five-star Luxor hotel, you’ll board your comfortable river
vessel and embark on a fascinating journey through antiquity.
Knowledgeable private guides accompany shore tours to
incredible sights including the Valley of the Kings, dug deep into
desert mountains and containing the tombs of pharaohs, most
famously Tutankhamun. Sailing to Aswan and back, you’ll also
visit the Colossi of Memnon, two massive statues that still stand
guard at the entrance to the ruined Amenhotep Temple. Another
day you’ll board a felucca, a traditional wooden sailing boat, to
visit the lush green oasis of Kitchener’s Island botanical garden.
The 10-night Magic of the Nile cruise on Livingstone, departing
September 9, 2024, starts from £2,965, including door-to-door
transfers, flights and travel insurance. travel.saga.co.uk

SOLO RIVER CRUISES
4 KEEP FIT, HAVE FUN

See a different side of the Danube and keep fit along
the way with Avalon Waterways. This line spearheaded
Active & Discovery cruises, so you can opt for energetic shore
tours or choose more relaxing options on rivers across Europe,
including the Rhine, Rhone, Moselle, Seine and Danube. Single
supplements have been waived on a journey through the quieter
reaches of the Lower Danube. Starting from Bucharest in
Romania and ending in the Croatian city of Zagreb, there are
PICTURES: SCYLLA AG; INDIGO PRODUCTIONS; GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK PHOTO/
cycling and hiking tours, such as an off-the-beaten-path bike

ride in Serbia’s lakeside Donji Milanovac and a walk to Bulgaria’s
spectacular Krushuna waterfalls. Back on board, try fitness classes
on the sun deck. Avalon offers a range of European and Asian
KRITSADA PHRUETTHIPHUNPHISUT; AVALON WATERWAYS
sailings with no solo supplement, and you’ll be in good company

since 10 per cent of the line’s passengers are solo travellers.
The eight-night Active & Discovery on the Lower Danube cruise on
Avalon Impression departing September 2, 2023, starts from £2,402.
avalonwaterways.co.uk
▲

5 SAIL IN STYLE
Uniworld’s fleet of boutique river ships are all
individually decorated and resemble luxury floating
hotels with warm and friendly staff – including liveried butlers
serving suite guests – plus original artwork, antiques, crisp table
linen and an abundance of fresh flowers. This Danube itinerary
PICTURES: UNIWORLD; TM STUDIOS VISUELLE MEDIEN GMBH; TERRY VINE; TAUCK; STEPHANE PFLEGER
is among the sailings with no supplement, so solos can combine

opulence with value for money. One of the line’s ‘super ships’,
Beatrice boasts a mirrored lobby with marble floors, Murano
glass chandelier and a grand staircase. Paintings around the ship
include works by Pablo Picasso and there are four dining options,
so solo travellers can choose to eat in a quiet corner or a busier
spot. The cruise from Budapest to Nuremberg includes fun and
convivial activities such as a bike ride, food-tasting walking tour,
strudel-making demonstration and craft-beer tasting.
The seven-night Delightful Danube cruise on Beatrice, departing
October 18, starts from £2,699, including flights. uniworld.com

SOLO RIVER CRUISES
6 NO SEINE, NO GAIN
If you want a round-trip sailing from Paris, why not
meander down to the Normandy coastline with luxury
line Tauck? Its ships carry fewer passengers than other similar-
sized vessels and have three cruise directors instead of one, so
it’s easy to get to know people and enjoy personal service. On
this immersive, all-inclusive Seine cruise, standout shore tours
include a sumptuous private dinner at a Normandy chateau
with musical entertainment, and an exclusive out-of-hours visit
to Impressionist artist Claude Monet’s house and gardens at
Giverny. You’ll also go to the opulent Palace of Versailles, as well
as the poignant D-Day landing beaches ahead of 2024’s 80th
anniversary. On every Tauck ship there are cabins for solos that
are supplement-free, and throughout 2023 single supplements
have been reduced by up to £750 on certain sailings.
The nine-night Rendezvous on the Seine sailing on Sapphire,
departing October 5, starts from £5,180. tauck.co.uk
7 STEP OUT IN ITALY

Hiking is a sociable activity where you’ll quickly fall into
step – and into conversation – with fellow passengers.
CroisiEurope’s Cruise & Walk range includes a scenic sailing
from Venice to Mantua, with guided treks through some of the
most beautiful landscapes in the Veneto and Lombardy regions.
Visit postcard-perfect spots including the Venetian Lagoon and
Verona – the setting for Romeo and Juliet – and indulge in mouth-
watering cuisine with the knowledge that you can walk it off.
Highlights include full-day hikes on the banks of Lake Garda
and a high-altitude trail in the Lessinia Regional Nature Park.
Afterwards, relax with a cocktail and wine with meals, as all drinks
are included in the fare. Also keep an eye out for CroisiEurope’s
no-single-supplement sailings on selected European cruises.
The six-night From Venice to Mantua itinerary on Michelangelo
departs September 18, with fares from £2,000. croisieurope.co.uk.
▲

8 DISCOVER THE DOURO
If you’re feeling nervous about travelling alone, the solo
travel specialist Just You offers a variety of river cruises
specifically geared for single travellers. Discovered by the Romans
who named it the River of Gold, sailings on Portugal’s Douro
begin and end in the historic maritime city of Porto. Flanked by
the vineyards that make the country’s famous port wine, you’ll
sail through the rugged green countryside on Nicko Cruises’
recently refurbished Douro Queen. There’ll be plenty of chances to
sample port and wine along the way and excursions include a trip
to Mateus Palace, which you might recognise from the labels of
its namesake rosé wine. There’s also the chance to head over the
Spanish border to the wonderful city of Salamanca, where you can
enjoy a lunchtime flamenco show.
The seven-night Cruising the Douro Valley itinerary on Douro Queen,
departing July 18, 2024, from £3,499 including flights. justyou.co.uk
9 COLOURFUL COLOMBIA
Embark on a pioneering cruise with AmaWaterways,
which is the first river cruise line to offer sailings on
Colombia’s Magdalena river. Soak up the soul, spirit and culture
of South America on this exciting itinerary from Barranquilla
to Cartagena aboard a new eco-friendly ship. The cruise is
accompanied by an expert team, including nature and wildlife
experts, and activities on the itinerary will include kayaking,
hiking and birdwatching; listening for the calls of birds that are
only native to Colombia. You’ll also watch a vibrant carnival
performance, set against the captivating rhythms of cumbia and
vallenato music, which provides a colourful taste of the country’s
biggest annual festival. Closer to home, AmaWaterways regularly
has offers for single travellers and there are solo staterooms with
no supplement on the European ships AmaDante, AmaLyra,
AmaCello and AmaDolce.
The seven-night Magic of Colombia cruise on AmaMelodia departing
October 2, 2024, starts from £4,015. amawaterways.co.uk

PICTURES: NICKO CRUISES; GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK PHOTO/THEPALMER; GARYTOG; LEONID ANDRONOV; AMADEUS RIVER CRUISES
SOLO RIVER CRUISES
10 CHRISTMAS CHEER
Soak up the magical atmosphere of some of Europe’s
most famous Christmas markets on a yuletide sailing.
This short-break Rhine itinerary with Amadeus River Cruises
still allows plenty of time to stock up on traditional gifts, such
as spicy gingerbread and local crafts. Setting sail from Cologne,
you’ll visit the pretty wine town of Rudesheim and travel through
the Unesco-listed Middle Rhine Valley past the legendary Lorelei
Rock. This festive extravaganza ends in Strasbourg, which is home
to the oldest Christmas market in France. Founded in 1570, it’s
set against the atmospheric backdrop of the city’s distinctive
twin-spired cathedral. On all sailings, Amadeus has a low single
supplement of 15 per cent on selected cabins and cruise directors
are on hand to introduce solo travellers to each other.
The four-night Magic of Advent on the Rhine itinerary on Amadeus
Riva, departing December 9, 2024, starts from £699.
amadeus-rivercruises.co.uk C T
&

CHANNEL PICTURES: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK PHOTO/VFKA; CHRIS GEORGE PHOTOGRAPHY
HOPPING
Small but mighty, the Channel Island of Guernsey
is packed with plenty of activity and intrigue
WORDS EMMA O’REILLY

s soon as we enter St Peter Port, Guernsey’s diminutive
capital, we’re spellbound. A simple walk along the High
Street offers tempting glimpses – in between equally
tempting shops and cafes – down steep little venelles
(alleyways) towards the sea.
Our guide, Gill, regales us with tales of former
residents including Victor Hugo, who wrote Les Misérables and
other famous works here. He described the Channel Islands as
“fragments of France which fell into the sea and were gathered
up by England”.
Indeed, it’s closer to France than to England, with a local
Guernsey patois that has its roots in French, though it remains a
self-governing Crown Dependency loyal to the British monarch.
The islands also bear the scars of the Second World War, when
occupying Nazi forces built hundreds of concrete fortifications that
still stand today, an echo of earlier Napoleonic forts and neolithic
burial chambers that are older than the pyramids.
But what of modern-day Guernsey? One thing we learn is that
it’s best not to rush it – and you’d be hard-pressed to anyway, with
a speed limit of 35mph on its roads.
We take to two wheels, skimming on bikes past the big, blousy
west-coast beaches, then onto its Ruettes Tranquilles, where an
even lazier 15mph speed limit is recommended.
We pass by fields of rare orchids and wild radishes with one
emergency stop – to try some velvety Guernsey ice cream.
Then it’s onto three wheels – in a tuk-tuk. These cute open-top
vehicles provide an unusual new form of guided sightseeing to visit
highlights off the beaten track, such as the Little Chapel, thought
to be the world’s smallest consecrated church, which lies in Les
Vauxbelets valley. It’s decorated inside and out with fragments of
china and colourful shells.
Close by is a photo stop at Icart Point, with a coastal view so
good it inspired Pierre-August Renoir to paint it, alongside many
more scenes from the island’s shores during his month-long stay
here in September 1883, creating a series of landscapes that had
a significant influence on his style in later years. A marked-out
Renoir Walk showcases some of the key spots around the island,
and a major exhibition of his work starts in September, also
▲
Above: The nearby island of Sark is home to spectacular scenery

Main image: Stretching from La Valette to Pleinmont, the island’s
south coast cliff paths offer breathtaking coastal panoramas

GUERNSEY
W H AT ’ S N E W I N
GUERNSEY
STAY A STEP AHEAD WITH
THE LATEST EVENTS AND
EXHIBITIONS TO ENJOY
SOUNDS OF SILENCE Sit down to dinner under the
starry night sky with a new foodie experience on Herm.
Amble from the harbour to Shell Beach, where drinks and
dinner are served as dusk falls and an astronomer points
out the constellations lighting up the moonlit heavens.
Herm Island, September 1-2. herm.com
HAVELET REGATTA Join locals for this new celebration

of sailing, featuring activities on and off the water and a
must-see ‘office-chair race’, a fitting encore to the better-
known Rocquaine Regatta, which takes place in summer.
St Peter Port, September 3. visitguernsey.com
PICTURES: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK PHOTO/UWE MOSER; ALAN_LAGADU; CHRIS GEORGE PHOTOGRAPHY; ART FOR GUERNSEY
RENOIR IN GUERNSEY, 1883 To mark the 140th
anniversary of Renoir’s landmark stay on the island, Art for
Guernsey has curated a one-off exhibition of the artist’s
landscapes, which will go on display for the first time in
the place where they were painted. Candie Museum and
locations around the island, September 30-December 15.
artforguernsey.com

featuring paintings by Claude Monet and Paul Gauguin.
Next comes no wheels, as we set off on the water. High winds
scupper plans for a kayak tour and a cruise around Herm Island
to search for puffins, seals and dolphins, but no matter as the ferry
to Herm is still running. This pocket-sized paradise doesn’t allow
cars to spoil the enjoyment of its surprisingly varied landscapes and
knockout beaches.
Back in St Peter Port, roads stuffed with old merchants’ houses
and those oh-so-tempting shops (mostly made up of independent,
local brands) beckon. As does Hauteville House, former home of
Victor Hugo. The dreamy garden is free to the public, but we want
to see the interiors, too. They’re incredibly lavish, quirky and rather
dark, both literally and metaphorically. Hugo was forced into exile
from France when Napoleon came to power. He created a glass
belvedere on top of the house, where he worked and could see his
beloved homeland across the sea.
St Peter Port is quaint but there’s nothing old-fashioned about its
food scene. Brunch with mimosas at Fat Rascal, Thai street food on
the rooftop at The Terrace Cafe and the freshest of fish with sea
views at Octopus are among many culinary highlights here.
We also walk just out of town to La Valette, where a new cafe
with terrace overlooks refurbished sea swimming pools.
If you have time to explore further, delve into 20th-century
history at Guernsey’s German occupation sites, pick up a souvenir
to bring home from Le Tricoteur, famous for its traditional
fishermen’s sweaters, or simply sit back on its golden-sand beaches
and watch the island’s slow pace of life unfold.
GETTING HERE
Guernsey is a popular port of call on British Isles cruises and those
departing from UK ports. If your visit inspires you to return for a
longer stay, you can fly from airports around the country in as little
Clockwise from above: Victor Hugo’s home, Hauteville House; the as half an hour, plus there are ferry routes from Poole (three hours)
shell and china-encrusted interior of the Little Chapel; Guernsey cattle and Portsmouth (seven hours). C T &
grazing near the Little Chapel; the quaint High Street in St Peter Port
Opposite: Herm Island is home to a sizeable puffin colony + For more destination guides, go to cruiseandtravel.co.uk
GUERNSEY
CRUISE CALLS
Guernsey welcomes cruise ships between April and
October, with tenders bringing guests into the heart of St
Peter Port to explore the capital or to join an arranged tour.
The Islands of Guernsey are set to receive 95 cruise-ship
calls by the end of 2023, with 23 inaugural calls from ships
including the new MSC Euribia, Ambassador Cruise Line’s
second ship Ambition, Silversea Cruises’ Silver Dawn and
Silver Endeavour, Princess Cruises’ Regal Princess, Ponant’s
Le Bellot and Le Champlain, Oceania Cruises’ Riviera and
Regent’s Seven Seas Splendor. There will also be return visits
from the likes of Swan Hellenic, Hapag-Lloyd Cruises,
PICTURES: CHRIS GEORGE PHOTOGRAPHY; NICK DESPRES; ETIENNE LAINE; GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK PHOTO/33KAREN33
Celebrity, Azamara and many more.
If you fancy a taster of island life, cruise lines calling at
Guernsey on short sailings include P&O Cruises, which
has a three-night Southampton-Guernsey departure in
June 2024, and Fred Olsen Cruise Lines, which offers a
Discovering Honfleur and the Channel Islands mini-cruise
for five nights in August 2024. The latter includes stops in
the Isles of Scilly, Guernsey and Normandy.
pocruises.com; fredolsencruises.com
Back in St Peter
Port, roads stuffed with
old merchants’ houses and
those oh-so-tempting
shops beckon
PICTURE: ALAMY STOCK PHOTO/SINA ETTMER

NORTHERN EUROPE
CAPITAL CULTURE
Explore Northern Europe’s coolest cities on a journey packed
with art, architecture, heritage and music at sea and ashore
WORDS JANE ARCHER

’m having a real pinch-me moment. The room is packed, a rock
band is playing live on stage and beer and wine is flowing. But
hang on a minute – I’m cruising with Holland America Line, a
brand that has a reputation (in the UK at least) for being rather
old-fashioned.
Yet here’s the band, looking the part with their long
hair, shades and ripped jeans, getting the line’s newest ship, pioneers, great inventions and a behind-the-scenes ship tour are
Rotterdam, rocking every night with a repertoire covering interspersed with recordings of interviewees, and enhanced with
everything from Bryan Adams and Bon Jovi to Janis Joplin and maps and pictures. To say it’s more interesting than professor so-
the Rolling Stones. and-so lecturing from a podium is an understatement.
Welcome to the Music Walk, where you can literally stroll from
one musical genre to another. There’s Billboard Onboard, a piano DUTCH DELIGHTS
bar dedicated to chart-toppers across the decades, with KG and Rotterdam is the seventh Holland America ship to be named
Melissa at the keys and Leonard Cohen, Billy Joel and Queen after the city where the line was founded exactly 150 years ago
standards to sing along to. And just along the corridor, BB King’s – an anniversary celebrated earlier this year during a themed
Blues Band is firing on all cylinders, with disco and soul on the transatlantic crossing.
playlist as well. I’ve managed to join the last few days of the voyage to watch
There’s nothing old-fashioned here – and that’s just the Music a special ceremony in the company’s original HQ at Hotel New
Walk. Rotterdam’s walls are adorned with eye-catching art York in the Dutch city of Rotterdam, attended by Princess
works – I’ve spotted pictures of pop heroes made from scrunched Margriet of the Netherlands, and am now on a short cruise
up cassette tapes (remember them?) and Beethoven depicted visiting Oslo in Norway, Copenhagen in Denmark and – fittingly
using porcelain shards, while the stairwells are lined with quirky – returning to Amsterdam.
sculptures. There’s one made from bent vinyl records, another is a Sailing with me are almost 2,600 other passengers, nearly 1,100
disassembled cello. of them Americans who have stayed on after the transatlantic,
In the theatre, floor-to-ceiling LED screens are used to great and more than 900 Dutch nationals – including quite a few first-
effect by cruise and travel director Karlijn, whose talks on Nordic timers and families getting their sea legs on this quick Nordic spin.
While most of my fellow guests opt for slow-paced sightseeing
excursions, I prefer something more active, which is how I find
Opening spread: Copenhagen’s colourful Nyhavn waterfront myself pedalling up a steep incline, muscles screaming, towards
Clockwise from above: The Royal Palace in Oslo; red wooden Oslo’s Royal Palace, then dodging in and out of the crowds in
houses in Oslo’s old town; BB King’s Blues Club on Rotterdam Vigeland, a sculpture park like none you’ve ever seen, in the
▲

NORTHERN EUROPE
OSLO
NORWAY’S CAPITAL RARELY
RANKS IN SCANDINAVIA’S TOP
CITIES, BUT HAS ITS SHARE OF
MUST-SEE ATTRACTIONS
CITY HALL
Find out where the Nobel Peace Prize is awarded then
stroll less than 10 minutes to the medieval Akershus
Fortress, which houses a museum dedicated to Norwegian
resistance fighters in the Second World War.
Rotterdam is the seventh Holland America

ship to be named after the city where the
line was founded exactly 150 years ago
VIGELAND
A free-to-enter park created by artist Gustav Vigeland
with more than 200 sculptures, some in granite, some in
bronze, but all depicting naked men, women and children.
At the centre, a massive monolith has 121 intertwined
human figures reaching up to the heavens.
PICTURES: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK PHOTO/MLENNY; FOTOVOYAGER; VLADACANON;
MICHEL VERDURE; ALAMY STOCK PHOTO/JEREMY GRAHAM; HEMIS
KON-TIKI AND FRAM MUSEUMS

Set on the Bygdøy Peninsula (take a boat from near
the cruise dock or the city’s hop-on, hop-off bus), these
museums pay tribute to Norwegian explorers Thor
Heyerdahl and Roald Amundsen. Nearby, an open-air
folk museum houses buildings from Norway’s past.

COP ENHAGEN
NAMED WORLD CAPITAL OF
ARCHITECTURE 2023, THE
DANISH CITY HAS PLENTY TO
EXPLORE ON SHORE
THE LITTLE MERMAID

Copenhagen’s crowd-pulling landmark – she of Hans
Christian Andersen fame – sits on a rock by the Langelinie
Park, an area that comes alive with festivals in spring when
the cherry blossom is in full bloom.
company of cycling guides Josh and Patrick.

In Copenhagen, I take a shuttle bus from the port to The Little
NYHAVN Mermaid statue (so small she’s easy to miss!) and walk along the
This picturesque part of town is packed with colourful seafront into the city, where canal cruises, designer shops and the
gabled houses, wall-to-wall restaurants and people. It’s Tivoli Gardens theme park await. It’s a long walk but I feel very
the departure point for canal cruise boats that go close to virtuous, having indulged in the ship’s Pinnacle steakhouse and
The Little Mermaid statue, before navigating the pretty Tamarind Asian restaurant.
waterways in the old part of the city.
DESIGNER DINING
Those are my favourite restaurants on Rotterdam, but there are
plenty of other places to eat, including a Dutch cafe that serves
yummy bacon and apple pancakes; Sel de Mer, which specialises
in fish; and the main dining room, which has a bright, modern
feel split over two decks, with a design that is inspired by either
the inside of a harp or of a whale – take your pick.
Tables down below are for walk-ins, with the upper level for
those who prefer fixed seating. This is one of the last nods to
cruising traditions that Holland America retains to cater for its
older clientele. However, where once most would have gone for
fixed, on Rotterdam it looked to be the other way around.
Formal nights also linger, but are now called ‘dressy’, which
TIVOLI GARDENS sounds less prescriptive, meaning that those who want to glam
Visit one of the world’s oldest amusement parks, where up have an excuse for donning suits and sparkles while others can
thrill-seekers can have a go on rollercoasters and daring go with something more relaxed. That’s definitely me, though I’m
rides. If that’s a bit too much excitement, take a stroll leaving the ripped jeans to the rock band – for now anyway! C T &
through the city’s landmark buildings instead, including a

stunning waterside opera house with a huge cantilevered Clockwise from top: Amalienborg Palace is the official residence of
roof, which hosts an annual cliff-diving contest. the Danish royal family; Copenhagen’s opera house; eating alfresco in
Oslo; the ship arriving in Rotterdam; Rotterdam’s main dining room

NORTHERN EUROPE
Formal nights also linger, but are now called ‘dressy’, which sounds less
prescriptive, meaning that those who want to glam up have an excuse
PICTURES: ALAMY STOCK PHOTO/ART KOWALSKY; GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK PHOTO/LISA STRACHAN; SCANRAIL;
FOTOVOYAGER; KATRINE HØST KJAERGAARD; HOLLAND AMERICA LINE
GETTING THERE
A seven-day Scandinavian fjords and capitals cruise round-trip
from Rotterdam onboard Holland America Line’s latest ship,
Rotterdam, departing May 4, 2024, costs from £1,429 per
person including selected drinks, tips, Wi-Fi, one free dinner in a
speciality restaurant and $100 shore excursion credit.
hollandamerica.com

A MEDITERRANEAN CRUISE
Take your pick of any seven-night Med itinerary setting sail this autumn
S ummer is well and truly underway – but there’s still

time to squeeze in a sumptuous sailing through the
sun-kissed waters of the Mediterranean before the year
is out. That’s why Virgin Voyages is giving you the chance to
win a seven-night cruise for two on any of its Mediterranean
The options don’t end there: once you’re onboard Valiant
Lady or Resilient Lady, the two adult-only ships based in the
Med this year, you’ll have your pick of drinks and dining,
too. Transport yourself to the streets of Mexico City at Pink
Agave, where the tequila and mezcal menu is as extensive as
itineraries, worth up to £3,500, so you can take your pick of the food; decide whether you want to go health-conscious or
trips to keep that summer vibe going a little bit longer. just throw the diet rulebook out with the array of ‘naughty or
With incredible ports of call and late-night departures nice’ options at Razzle Dazzle; dig into Korean barbecue at
or overnight stays on almost every itinerary, you could be Gunbae; or enjoy upscale Italian at Extra Virgin.
kicking back in Corfu, sampling the nightlife in Split, eating These are just some of more than 20 food-and-drink
out in Ibiza or mixing with the rich and famous in Mykonos. options, along with incredible shows and entertainment,
Choose whether you would rather depart from Barcelona DJ vibes in The Manor nightclub, group fitness classes and
or Athens – Virgin Voyages’ two home ports in the region, inspiring outdoor workout spaces on deck, plus a spa with
offering easy access to Europe’s most exciting cities and salt and mud rooms, hammam, sauna and hot and cold
stunning isles – then simply sit back, relax and prepare to plunge pools to relax after a day’s sightseeing.
enjoy the onboard experience. Some of the sailings you can For your chance to win this luxury cruise for two, simply
choose from include: French Daze & Ibiza Nights, Greek answer the question opposite before the competition closes
Island Glow and Adriatic Sea & Greek Gems. on September 10, 2023. C T&

COMPETITION
Clockwise from far left: Take in Med views over

the wake; sample Korean cuisine at Gunbae; Sea
Terrace cabins include a hammock; enjoy the
adult-only atmosphere; Valiant Lady
WITH VIRGIN VOYAGES

HOW TO ENTER
For your chance to win a seven-night Med or Greek Isles cruise
of your choice with Virgin Voyages, simply answer the question
below before 11.59pm on September 10, 2023:
Which of these cities is one of Virgin Voyages’ European

home ports?
■ BRUSSELS ■ BARCELONA ■ BUDAPEST

PICTURES: VIRGIN VOYAGES - CONTENT STUDIOS; ALBERTO OVIEDO
Go to cruiseandtravel.co.uk/win-with-virgin-voyages to
submit your entry
TERMS AND CONDITIONS

The winner will receive a unique Access Key which can be redeemed against one double-occupancy Sea
Terrace cabin for the winner and one guest on an applicable Virgin Voyages sailing in the Mediterranean.
Travel must commence by October 31, 2023. Access Keys offer a 100% discount on the voyage fare,
including taxes, but excluding upgrades, transfers, applicable fuel surcharges and insurance; flights are not
included. Prize is non-refundable and has no cash value.Winner must be 18 years or over; UK residents only.
Read the full terms and conditions at cruiseandtravel.co.uk/win-with-virgin-voyages

INSIDER’S GUIDE
MIND THE APP

Cruise lines are encouraging guests to turn to smartphone apps and
other technology to ensure a smooth sailing – but how do they work?
WORDS MARC SHOFFMAN
M uch of our daily lives is now managed using a mobile

phone and an internet connection – and cruise travel
is no different.
Many cruise brands have been investing in high-tech ways
to improve the onboard experience and now offer apps that
let you arrange your boarding, speciality restaurant bookings,
shore excursions and even drinks orders from the palm of your
hand with just the click of a smartphone.
This may create a challenge for less tech-savvy sailors, but
the aim is to get passengers onboard faster and to ensure a
smooth sailing from start to finish.
GETTING ONBOARD
Main image: Organise onboard reservations You may be used to using a travel agent or browsing online for
with your smartphone Above: With most cruise cruise deals, but your smartphone can now help. New app My
lines investing in apps, passengers can upload Kind of Cruise sends notifications about special offers and lets
their details before embarkation and book dining you compare and book sailings across different cruise lines.
or excursions with just a few taps of a screen Regardless of how you book, once your sailing is

INSIDER’S GUIDE
to control your room’s TV, lighting, blinds and temperature.

Similarly, the MSC for Me wristband lets guests open their
cabins and make payments.
Princess Cruises’ Medallion is more than just an app – it’s
a wearable device that automatically unlocks your room as
you approach. It can be used to pay for food, drinks and
other items and acts as your digital identity on board, so staff
know where to deliver your orders. Plus, it’s been rolled out to
participating shoreside shops in the Caribbean and Mexican
Riviera, so you can buy gifts using the contactless technology.
Rather than an app, some companies such as P&O Cruises
also let you view menus, schedules and ship maps through its
onboard network without an internet connection.
CRUISE CHATS
Beyond bookings, many apps, such as those from Carnival
Cruise Line, Celebrity, MSC, Princess and Royal Caribbean
will let you connect and chat with fellow guests, so you don’t
have to worry about roaming charges for texting or WhatsApp.
The Disney Cruise app even includes Mickey Mouse and
other character-related icons and emojis in its chat feature.
DO YOU HAVE TO BE A TECH GENIUS?

Most apps require users to sign in with their booking, room
Princess Cruises’ Medallion is more than details or email. That’s simple enough for most, as long as your
phone is charged and the app is compatible, but it may still
just an app – it’s a wearable device that be tricky for people who struggle with technology or want to
switch off from screens while on holiday.
unlocks your room as you approach

Elisa Ball of Total Travel Experts says some older clients
don’t have smartphones or aren’t adept at using them. “This
creates much anxiety and everything must be done manually,”
confirmed, most cruise company apps will encourage you to she adds. “Some ships don’t have enough staff dedicated to
take a photo and scan your passport so most of your check-in app usage, so wait times to resolve issues can be very long.”
details are complete before you even arrive at the port. A smartphone isn’t the only option though – it’s still possible
If you can’t wait to get started, some brands such as to use a paper planner and talk to a real person onboard. Plus,
Ambassador Cruise Line and Azamara offer 3D virtual tours adds Panache Cruises’ James Cole, those who don’t use apps
of their ships, so you can get your bearings before you board. will still benefit from shorter queues created by others who
Many will even feature a countdown to build the excitement are happy using their device – so tech-savvy or not, there are
for your forthcoming trip. upsides for all. C T
&
ONBOARD EXPERIENCE
+ For more insider tips on cruises, go to cruiseandtravel.co.uk
Rather than carrying a paper daily planner around to find out
about food timings and events each day, your smartphone can IN THE KNOW
now help digitise your schedule.
App features will vary depending on the brand and the ship. HOW TO CONNECT TO
For example, the MSC for Me app lets users build their own A CRUISE APP
itinerary, make entertainment and food reservations, watch a
digital safety drill and find out about ship arrival times.
Virgin Voyages guests can book restaurants and shows and
get reminders so you aren’t late for dinner, while the Royal
Caribbean, Holland America Line and NCL onboard apps let
guests book speciality dining and shore excursions.
Princess Cruises’ MedallionClass app lets guests check
the schedule, make reservations, play games, watch films and
navigate around the ship. You can also order food, drink and
essentials such as suncream to be delivered to your sunlounger,
wherever you are onboard. Kids will enjoy the app’s Tagalong
character that appears on screen when you’re near a lift.
“Holiday time is extremely precious, so anything that helps ■ Cruise apps let you check in, book shows and dining
with planning, avoiding queues and making the most of time reservations, and some may let you order food, drinks,
PICTURES: PRINCESS : VIRGIN VOYAGES
away is going to be popular,” says James Cole, founder and browse shore excursions and even buy photos
managing director at luxury travel agency Panache Cruises. ■ You don’t need a Wi-Fi package to download or use a
cruise app while on board

THE PRACTICALITIES ■ Guests can connect to the internet hotspot onboard in
There’s more to many of these apps than just booking food and airplane mode so there’s no mobile data used
fun though. Celebrity Cruises lets guests download a digital ■ Features vary depending on the cruise line and ship
key to unlock their rooms, and you can use your smartphone

10%
‡ †
DOUBLE
ON-BOARD
DEPOSIT spending
money
MEDITERRANEAN
MEDLEY
MAKE YOUR DREAM 2024 Mediterranean cruise holiday a reality with P&O Cruises. From stunning coastlines, fascinating history,
and vibrant cultures, the Mediterranean is the perfect destination for an unforgettable cruise holiday. And with a range of itineraries
to choose from, you can explore the best of this beautiful region while enjoying world-class dining, entertainment, and amenities
on board. What’s more, if you book a selected 2024 Mediterranean cruise by 31 July 2023, you’ll receive double on-board spending
money†. So why wait? Call our Cruise Experts today on 0800 028 2177.
Valencia Florence
ARVIA (K407) | 31 MAR 2024 | 14 NIGHTS ARVIA (K409) | 28 APR 2024 | 14 NIGHTS
Southampton, La Coruna, Valencia, Marseille, Barcelona, Alicante, Southampton, La Coruna, Mallorca, La Spezia (Florence/Pisa), Marseille,
Cadiz (Seville), Southampton Barcelona, Cadiz (Seville), Southampton
Cruise Club Fares From PP◊ Cruise Club Fares From PP◊
Inside:
£1,138 £ 180
per person to spend
on-board
†
Inside:
£1,118 £ 180 †
per person to spend
on-board
£1,464 320 £1,484 320

† †
Sea View: £per person to spend
on-board on-board
Balcony:
£1,613
£ 360 †
per person to spend
on-board
Balcony:
£1,633
£ 360 †
per person to spend
on-board
Expert advice 7 days a week The Cruise Centre
0800 028 2177

Chesterfield S43 4XE
Mon-Fri: 9am-9pm, Sat: 9am-7pm, Sun: 10am-5pm www.bolsovercruiseclub.com

Seville Marseille Mallorca
ARVIA (K410) | 12 MAY 2024 | 14 NIGHTS ARVIA (K413) | 23 JUN 2024 | 14 NIGHTS BRITANNIA (B419) | 2 AUG 2024 | 14 NIGHTS
Southampton, La Coruna, Valencia, Marseille, Southampton, La Coruna, Mallorca, Southampton, Cadiz (Seville), Mallorca, Cagliari, Ibiza,
Barcelona, Alicante, Cadiz (Seville), Southampton La Spezia (Florence/Pisa), Marseille, Barcelona, Cartagena, Gibraltar, Southampton
Cadiz (Seville), Southampton
Cruise Club Fares From PP◊ Cruise Club Fares From PP◊ Cruise Club Fares From PP◊
Inside:
£1,187 £ 180
per person to spend
on-board
†
Inside:
£1,336 £ 180
per person to spend
on-board
†
Inside:
£1,494 £ 180 †
per person to spend
on-board
£1,583 320 £1,880 320 £1,979 360

† † †
Balcony (obs^): £
per person to spend
on-board on-board on-board
Balcony:
£1,712
£ 360
per person to spend
on-board
†
Balcony:
£2,078
£ 360
per person to spend
on-board
†
Balcony:
£2,157
£ 360 †
per person to spend
on-board
Gibraltar Barcelona La Coruna
BRITANNIA (B420) | 16 AUG 2024 | 14 NIGHTS ARVIA (K418) | 1 SEP 2024 | 14 NIGHTS ARVIA (K419) | 15 SEP 2024 | 14 NIGHTS
Southampton, Cadiz (Seville), Ibiza, Southampton, La Coruna, Mallorca, Southampton, La Coruna, Valencia, Marseille,
Mallorca (overnight in port), Cartagena, Gibraltar, La Spezia (Florence/Pisa), Marseille, Barcelona, Barcelona, Alicante, Cadiz (Seville), Southampton
Southampton Cadiz (Seville), Southampton
Cruise Club Fares From PP◊ Cruise Club Fares From PP◊ Cruise Club Fares From PP◊
Inside:
£1,445 £ 180
per person to spend
on-board
†
Inside:
£1,237 £ 180
per person to spend
on-board
†
Inside:
£1,237 £ 180 †
per person to spend
on-board
£1,979 360 £1,880 320 £1,633 320

† † †
Balcony (obs^): £ per person to spend
Sea View: £
per person to spend
on-board on-board on-board
Balcony:
£2,157
£ 360
per person to spend
on-board
†
Balcony:
£1,979
£ 360
per person to spend
on-board
†
Balcony:
£1,781
£ 360 †
per person to spend
on-board
PLEASE QUOTE: BCC REF 8171. ISSUED 28.06.23. The process of producing/distributing this advert takes several days and could therefore limit the availability of prices and accommodation as advertised, or they could not be available at all. Please see our website www.
bolsovercruiseclub.com for the most up to date offers and availability. These offers apply to new bookings only and may be withdrawn by P&O Cruises without notice. They are not combinable with any other promotion and are subject to the booking conditions of P&O
Cruises. A copy of Bolsover Cruise Club’s Terms of Business is available on request or by visiting our website. This mailing contains an outline description of the cruises featured, which are solely organised by P&O Cruises. It should be read in conjunction with P&O Cruises
current brochure which contains full information about the cruise itineraries, accommodation details, booking conditions that apply, passport and health requirements, what’s included in the fare and other general information. Prices shown are per person, based on twin
occupancy and already include current fuel surcharges at the time of going to print. ◊Select Price gives you the most choice and flexibility. You’ll get the choice of cabin location and first priority for upgrades (subject to availability), first priority for dining style on ships offering
both freedom and Club Dining, and first priority for seating time and table size for Club Dining, a choice of on-board spending money, car parking in Southampton or return coach travel to Southampton, shuttle buses in port (where they are provided by P&O Cruises) and
flexibility to change your booking. †Book a select price cabin between 1 July and 31 July 2023 on 35 applicable 13 and 14 night Mediterranean holidays on Arvia and Britannia departing 31 March to 29 September 2024 inclusive of the Select Price benefit of on-board spending
money and receive up to double the amount of on-board spending money. On-board spending money is at least double that previously available for three weeks prior to 1 July 2023 on all selected departures. Amount varies by cabin, cruise duration and date. Applicable
to guests 1 and 2 in a cabin only. Offer is combinable with 10% deposit. Double on-board spending money offer is not applicable to Early Saver and on-board spending money cannot be exchanged for a cash alternative. On-board credit amounts shown already include this
offer. ‡10% deposit applicable to new Select Price or Early Saver bookings made by 4 September 2023 on applicable departures from 9 June 2023 to 26 October 2025. Applicable to the first two guests in a cabin only. For bookings made after the balance due date the full
amount will be due at time of booking. Offer is combinable with P&O Cruises current on-board spending money offer on qualifying departures. P&O Cruises reserve the right to withdraw this offer in whole or on individual cruises at any time. P&O Cruises reserve the right
to withdraw the offer in whole or on individual cruises at any time. The terms (obs^) when relating to fare grades means your cabin will have an obstructed view. Further terms and conditions apply, please call for details. Fares shown are inclusive of Cruise Club Cashback.
Travel insurance, visas and any required vaccinations are additional. E&OE.
CITY GUIDE
ANTWERP
It’s a magnet for fashion lovers and diamond
dealers, but this Flemish city also offers
fantastic food and a rejuvenated museum scene
WORDS RICHARD MELLOR
A fter a topsy-turvy history, Belgium’s second city – and

main Flemish stronghold – might just be entering
another golden age. Restocked with museums and
powered by its super-port, modern-day Antwerp is also a
magnet for fashionistas, foodies and free-thinkers.
In the late 1400s, a boom in westwards trade allied with
Antwerp’s straightforward sea access up the Scheldt River
saw this small, fortified settlement reborn as a powerful
trading post. Glorious mansions sprung up, the ruling
Habsburgs visited often and one of Europe’s major cities
quickly took form; befittingly, it also boasted one of the
continent’s A-list artists in Pieter Paul Rubens.
The ensuing centuries were less kind, bringing a war-
ridden Spanish occupation culminating in the Spanish Fury,
PICTURES: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK PHOTO/QUERBEET
a sacking that saw 17,000 locals lose their lives; economic

suppression by Dutch overseers; and, following a revival
under Napoleon, severe damage during both world wars.
Subsequently, however, a post-war rebuild and a recent
clean-up, involving the restoration or even unveiling of
▲
Above: The city is renowned for restaurants serving traditional

Flemish seafood Right: Antwerp’s central square, Grote Markt,
City Hall and Brabo fountain make for a pretty scene at dusk

CITY GUIDE

W H E R E T O S TA Y
On a happily quiet street just off Sint-Jansvliet, luxurious

HOTEL ’T SANDT occupies what was once a warehouse
where Europe’s first-ever bananas were stored. Today the
space hosts 29 stylish, distinctly decorated – but always with
flair – bedrooms rich in space. Good breakfast spreads are
served downstairs or on a leafy terrace. hotel-sandt.be
glorious old buildings – a department in which Antwerp

hardly lacked, anyway – has given the city a boost of energy.
As well as being a hub of the world’s diamond-trade dealers
– who dominate a secretive tangle of streets next to the graceful
Central Station – the city has earned international fanfare for
its trend-setting fashion designers ever since the Antwerp Six
rose to prominence three decades ago. Factor in cute cobbled
lanes, an especially glorious cathedral and that rebooted
gallery scene, and you really should be hurrying off that ship…
WHERE TO GO
Although some riverboats dock slightly further north at
Kattendijkdok or Willemdok, most Antwerp-bound cruises
drop anchor at Wandelteras Zuid. Opened in 2020, this
still-shiny terminal is fabulously located with no shuttle bus
required for urban exploration.
Indeed, within a five-minute walk, you can be learning
about Antwerp’s history in Het Steen, a 13th-century fortress;
or rummaging around shops in the medieval centre, where
sinuous alleys spread eastwards from the Scheldt.
The best Antwerp advice? To simply wander around, taking
in the beauty and bustling atmosphere. Perhaps visit the Lego
brick-like Museum aan de Stroom (MAS), if only for the
terrific port views on offer from its rooftop, then snake your
way south towards Sint-Jansvliet. Filled with locals and
adjoining a Scheldt subway accessed via clanking, oh-so-
photogenic wooden elevators, this bar-flanked square hosts a
superb Sunday flea market.
Immediately west is the fashion district, while to the
south, you'll find hip Het Zuid, a bougie neighbourhood
characterised by leafy streets, cool cafes, independent local
restaurants and vintage stores.
WHAT TO SEE
The 15th-century Cathedral of Our Lady is a true gothic
fantasia. After snapping its spires – freed from four years of
scaffolding last December – venture inside to admire the
stunning seven-aisled nave and a quartet of early Rubens
paintings. Their presence is especially welcome, given that
the city’s Rubens House mansion, where the artist lived and
worked, will remain closed until 2027. Steps away is the city’s
▲
Main images, clockwise from top left: The gothic Cathedral of

Our Lady; inside, you'll find Rubens' Descent from the Cross triptych; go
shopping on Nationalestraat; Fiera is set in the former stock exchange

CITY GUIDE
3 R E V I TA L I S E D
MUSEUMS
EXPLORE ANTWERP'S FASHION,
ART, HISTORY AND CULTURE
ROYAL MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS
This Zuid gallery returned to action in 2023 after an 11-year
restoration. A glossy, white-walled courtyard wing has been
added and exhibitions are now thematic, not chronological.
Choral music plays beside an instrument-strewn altarpiece;
a Rembrandt portrait abuts a colourful contemporary work;
one boozy tavern painting is purposefully slanted – all typify
a thought-provoking sense of play. Tickets €20. kmska.be
MODEMUSEUM
Digestible and fashion-focused, ‘MoMu’ uses its bigger
room to detail the origins of modish staples such as
trenchcoats and hoodies, while a second space shows
temporary exhibitions based around Belgian designers or
sartorial trends. Tickets €12. momu.be
PICTURES: HOTEL ‘T SANDT; LEBAK PHOTOGRAPHY/ALAN LEBACQ; PBYM; GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK PHOTO/MANX_IN_THE_WORLD; WIM HADERMAN;
DIVA
Jewellery, especially diamonds, is the focus here, as several
sparkling floors show you how precious stones move from
mines to sparkle on the fingers and necks of the world’s well-
heeled. Some incredible specimens are on show. Booking
ahead is advisable; tickets €12. divaantwerp.be
KARIN BORGHOUTS; MATTHIAS DEBOECK; FREDERIK BEYENS

CITY GUIDE
W H E R E T O E AT
■ Among plenty of Michelin-feted restaurants, one stands
out: HERTOG JAN at the new, five-star Botanic Hotel

has an Asian influence via plates such as wagyu A5 beef
alongside smoked eel and rich cherries. hertog-jan.com
■ Less acclaimed but equally memorable is unmarked
FIERA, a fine-dining establishment in the Handelsbeurs.

Antwerp’s glorious old stock exchange retains its stained
glass as chillwave electro plays to a cool young crowd. fiera.be
focal Grote Markt plaza, framed by gabled guild houses and a

grand City Hall line. For fantastic views without the price tag,
local tour guide Carolien Krijnen (antwerpconnection.com) has
a tip worth trying. She says: “There’s a small tower on top of
the tourist information office at Het Steen, open until 10pm,
from which you can see the whole city – for free!”
To visit a farther-flung quarter, use the tram network. In
revitalised Het Eilandje, buzzy brasseries occupy repurposed
warehouses next to MAS and the moving Red Star Line
Museum, which tells the story of early European migrants to
America. Architecture buffs are directed just north to the Port
House, an old fire station on whose roof the late Zaha Hadid
has dramatically plopped a diamond-like glass extension.
Or go south to Zurenborg where, replete with ostentatious
curves, gables and murals, residential streets such as Cogels-
Osylei serve as an art nouveau showroom.
WHAT TO EAT
Restaurants abound around the old town and in repurposed
buildings along the Scheldt. The more traditional will serve
Flemish seafood dishes such as shrimp croquettes or paling
in’t groen (eels in a herby green sauce).
French fries (frites) are another staple, with the original
Frituur no1 counter a particular institution. Open until the
early hours opposite the cathedral (Hoogstraat 1), it serves
generous portions with numerous sauces.
This being Belgium, beer is a big thing. A good place for
fans to start is the southerly De Koninck brewery. Typically
consumed in namesake, goblet-like glasses, Antwerp’s beloved
bolleke beer is produced here.
GETTING THERE
Antwerp is served by both ocean and river cruises, with lines
stopping overnight including Viking, A-Rosa, Fred Olsen and
Oceania Cruises, while CroisiEurope and Regent Seven Seas
have voyages that finish here. Ambassador, Scenic and, from
2024, Tauck also sail to the city. C T&
Clockwise from top left: Visit Museum aan de Stroom; Central

Station sits in the diamond district; the Port House boasts a striking
Zaha Hadid extension; sample bolleke beer before you leave
+ For more city guides, go to cruiseandtravel.co.uk

PICTURES: MATTHIAS DE BOECK; GIANNI CAMILLERI; CHANTAL ARNTS; GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK PHOTO/ONLY_FABRIZIO; F9PHOTOS

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BEHIND THE SCENES
BEHIND THE SCENES
CREATIVE CAREERS
Life at sea isn’t all about waiting on guests or serving drinks – some crew
members find themselves looking after four-legged guests, teaching budding
surfers how to ride the waves or even tending real grass lawns on deck
WORDS SARA MACEFIELD
ALDRIN MATEO
KENNEL MASTER
CUNARD’S QUEEN MARY 2
I’ve worked for Cunard for a number of
years in various roles, and have been a
kennel master on Queen Mary 2 for the
past year. It’s one of the best jobs, especially
when there’s free time and we can play
with the dogs. I really love animals and it’s
extremely rewarding when the owners are thankful for the care
we’ve given their pets when they disembark.
We sometimes even take part in photo shoots with the pets
during the voyage and some guests give us these photos or take
them home to put in frames.
Before embarkation, we prepare for new arrivals by putting
the pets’ names on each kennel – there are 24 on QM2. Upon
embarkation, we greet the guests and their pets in the terminal and
bring them to the kennels to show them their home for the voyage.
We ensure we have all the information necessary, such as food
preparation and portion sizes, and every day we look after the pets
by ensuring that they’re comfortable and clean.
We prepare meals, play and take them for short walks outside on
deck. Owners are welcome to come and see their pets throughout
the day and we’re happy to chat with them whenever we can.
The hardest thing is making sure we cater for the variety of
PICTURES: CHRISTOPHER ISON;
different needs. While some pets enjoy visits and playtime together,
others want to be visited and exercised on their own – and some
simply enjoy watching the ocean.
▲
From top right: Some dogs like to be exercised alone; kennel

masters walk canine guests; cats cruise too; pups enjoy playtime

EDLYN BUSTILLO
LAWNKEEPER
CELEBRITY CRUISES’
CELEBRITY SILHOUETTE
I’ve been with Celebrity for 13 years,
entrusted with the task of tending to
the grass lawns on the ship, a unique
element that guests absolutely love.
But maintaining greenery on a ship presents its own set of
challenges, especially when exposed to the corrosive effects
of the sea.
The salt can have a detrimental impact on the grass,
causing it to appear dry, and depleting essential nutrients
from the soil. The constant sea breeze exacerbates the
issue, with the prolonged exposure meaning that it needs
continual care and maintenance.
Regular inspections are carried out to ensure the lawns
keep their appearance for guests and to counter these
challenges, I regularly rinse the grass to remove excess salt.
For areas requiring special treatment, I take the precaution
of fencing them off to protect them from the harsh breeze.
I routinely mow the grass, apply anti-fungal and fertiliser
treatments and carry out regular tests to maintain the
health of the lawns.
I take immense pride in my work, particularly when
guests approach me in disbelief, asking whether the grass is
real. They’re usually astonished by how immaculate it looks
and its vibrant colour, and they often need to touch and
smell it to confirm that it’s genuine.
From top: Celebrity Silhouette’s Lawn Club; Edlyn mows the lawn
regularly; cruise guests enjoy alfresco entertainment on the grass;
lawn bowls can be played on the Lawn Club’s real grass

BEHIND THE SCENES
RIO WILL
SURFING INSTRUCTOR
ROYAL CARIBBEAN INTERNATIONAL’S
SYMPHONY OF THE SEAS
After graduating from university with
a sports degree, I wanted to work
and travel aboard, so applied for a
sports staff role with Royal Caribbean,
which includes being a FlowRider surf simulator instructor.
We teach guests how to boogie board, while stand-up
surfing is for guests who have previous experience or have
tried other board sports. We monitor their safety while they
ride, ensuring they wipe out correctly and stay within the
PICTURES: MICHEL VERDURE; TIM BIEBER; STEVE BEAUDET; ZBUSH; DANA NEIBERT; JORDAN LUTES AND DANI GILLCHRIST
limits of their skill level. We also offer private coaching.

Teaching guests how to stand up on the board is relatively
easy and it’s possible to do it in one hour. To move, change
direction, or learn skills like carving or completing tricks
takes daily practice over several months.
The most difficult thing is teaching guests who have no
previous experience, have not done board sports or simply
aren’t athletic – though that’s also the best challenge!
Sometimes guests don’t speak English and if no staff
members speak their language, that can also be a challenge,
so we use body language to teach them.
We can give guests once-in-a-lifetime experiences on
FlowRider and I’ve been able to help and coach several
guests who are blind or have a disability. We go into the
water with them and hold them to keep them safe, but they
get to experience the thrill of the rushing water.
We frequently host groups of people with autism and
have private sessions where we have two staff or more to
ensure they have a great time, while keeping them safe. It’s
often something they’ve never done before. C T &
From top: A Symphony of the Seas guest enjoys the FlowRider

experience; there’s plenty for adrenaline junkies to enjoy; the ship
boasts lots of sporting facilities; children can learn to boogie board

PICTURES: LAUREN MUSTOE;

REVIEWS
REVIEWS
Our verdict on the latest ships to set sail, offering everything from
classic British vibes to luxury adventures with Bond-style extras

AMBITION
The second ship from UK company Ambassador Cruise Line is a mix of timeless
style and contemporary touches, meaning there’s no need for gimmicks
WORDS NICK DALTON
A mbassador Cruise Line, which has filled the

space left by the closure of Cruise & Maritime
Voyages, operates with the same mission: to provide
‘premium value’ no-fly voyages from London Tilbury and
seven other ports around the UK.
Holyrood, which requires reservations. Borough Market
is the buffet, playfully decorated with stage set-style trees
and offering wide-ranging lunches, from fish and chips
to the graze and grain station with its nuts and nibbles
– and there’s a tucked-away rear terrace. For an extra
The ship was named Ambition by sailing champion charge, Saffron serves Indian dishes and Lupino’s offers
Shirley Robertson OBE, the first British woman to win Mediterranean cuisine. On deck, there are lunchtime pizzas.
gold at consecutive Olympics (in 2000 and 2004), at a A cheering selection of bars include the Purple
ceremony in Newcastle in May. Turtle wine bar, rich in gold and red furnishings; Angel,
overlooking the cool white and wood atrium; and the
ESSENTIALS Clifton Lounge with a small stage for musical acts.
Ambition was built in 1999 and has just undergone a major
revamp. It’s comfortably mid-sized, carrying 1,200 guests EXTRAS
(200 fewer than sister ship, Ambience), so easy to negotiate. The Cavern, a big bar and entertainment venue, is a major
Of the 680 rooms, 133 are suites, while 125 cabins come social hub onboard, whether for a pre-dinner drink or later
with balconies. fun such as an Abba tribute act or the late-night DJs. The
theatre features all-singing all-dancing shows, such as A
EXPERIENCE Night In Nashville.
A ‘classic’ ship – that means no go-karts or climbing walls A collaboration with whale charity Orca brings experts
– Ambition has an elegant interior that mixes classic wood on board for talks on many cruises. The smart Green Sea
tones with colourful, rich shades including the company’s Spa comes with sauna, steam room and treatments, while
distinctive purple insignia. It’s for adults only, aside from the sizeable gym has panoramic views.
occasional multi-generational cruises on certain dates.
The main deck – a lawn setting complete with artificial HOW TO BOOK
grass, polished wooden booths and a bar – boasts two pools, Ambassador Cruise Line’s seven-night Summertime
plus hot tubs. Fjordland, departing from Dundee on August 22, 2024, on
There are two main restaurants with a shared menu: Ambition, costs from £679 per person, including all meals.
Buckingham and the slightly smaller, white-tablecloth ambassadorcruiseline.com
▲
Right, top row: Ambition’s godmother, Shirley Robertson OBE named the ship; Lupino’s serves up refined Mediterranean fare
Middle row: As the ship’s main social hub, the Cavern is a place to meet for drinks and take in a variety of evening shows
Bottom row: One of the 133 suites onboard Ambition; A Night in Nashville is one of the performances passengers can enjoy

PICTURES: AMBASSADOR CRUISE LINE
REVIEWS

PICTURES: SCENIC

REVIEWS
SCENIC ECLIPSE II
The sequel to Scenic’s expedition ship offers a bit of superyacht-style
luxury, even in the most remote of environments
WORDS SUE BRYANT
S cenic Eclipse II, the second ‘discovery yacht’ for

Australian-owned cruise line Scenic, is an expedition
ship for travellers who don’t want to compromise
on luxury. With the sleek lines of a superyacht, and the
high-ceilinged interiors and glossy decor of a boutique
more than 100 whiskies in the chic Scenic Lounge, where
a palette of silver, black and stone is accentuated by banks of
mauve bougainvillea – artificial but effective. There are seven
restaurants for dinner. All activities are included on expedition
cruises and on regular itineraries, there’s an impressive range
hotel, it doesn’t even look like an expedition ship. But with of excursions, which are also covered. Our Spanish sailing
a Polar Class 6 hull for nudging through Antarctic ice, two included a cycling tour of Seville, kayaking along the rugged
helicopters, a six-passenger submarine, a fleet of Zodiacs and coast near Cartagena and making goat’s cheese at an organic
an expedition team of up to 24, Scenic Eclipse II can reach the Ibizan farm. All you pay for are the helicopter and submarine.
furthest extremes of the planet.
EXTRAS
ESSENTIALS The speciality restaurants are next level. The teppanyaki-style
Scenic Eclipse II carries 228, limited to 200 in Antarctica. Night Market @ Koko’s, which rotates through different
The ship is all-inclusive, all-suite and all-balcony, with butler Asian and Middle Eastern cuisines, is the best food I’ve had
service throughout. As well as all the Bond-style toys, there’s at sea; while Lumiere offers a French tasting menu. Book
a water-sports marina for launching kayaks and paddleboards early for both and try to go more than once. The Chef ’s Table
and a beautiful spa, in which the thermal areas – separate for offers molecular cuisine and is the most coveted spot on the
men and women – are free to access with heated loungers, ship – but it’s invitation-only for VIPs.
sauna, steam, a salt therapy room, infrared sauna chairs Scenic likes to surprise its guests and often masterminds
(great for aching backs) and a whirlpool. There’s no pool for extra treats. On my cruise, this included a wonderful opera
swimming but instead a plunge pool with jets on deck 10, as recital on the helipad, with champagne, and in Seville, a
well as six cabanas and a big ‘bunny pad’ – those oversized dazzling equestrian and flamenco show in a private venue.
padded sunbathing areas you find on superyachts. Not for
polar regions, of course, but they might prove popular when HOW TO BOOK
this ship sails Australia’s wild Kimberley coast in 2024. A 10-night voyage from Broome to Darwin, departing
on August 28, 2024 (not including flight time) costs from
EXPERIENCE £9,140 per person. The price includes economy-class flights
Scenic Eclipse II offers a luxurious yachting experience, from the UK, a veranda suite, all drinks, all dining, Wi-Fi,
regardless of where you sail. All drinks are covered, including gratuities, excursions and activities. scenic.co.uk
▲
Right, top row: The Sky Bar offers indoor, outdoor and private cabana seating for guests who want drinks with a view
Middle row: There’s a vitality pool with swim jets on the Sky Deck; Chef’s Garden @ Epicure offers an immersive dining experience
Bottom row: The Sky Deck offers spectacular panoramas; Scenic Eclipse II is perfectly designed for Antarctic expeditions

MARELLA VOYAGER
From buttons that summon champagne to a speakeasy bar, the quirky
fifth addition to Marella’s fleet offers five-star hospitality in spades
WORDS SARA MACEFIELD
M arella Cruises is as reassuringly British as the fish

and chips served on its ships, with innovative twists
that give it a distinctive flavour – and these are
perfectly embodied in its newest debutante, Voyager.
shop scallops and a Marathon bar dessert.
Mexican diner Abuela’s and Platter, which serves cheese,
meat and vegetable sharing boards, also make their debut.
EXTRAS
ESSENTIALS Leading the entertainment line-up is The Exchange, a
The 1,912-passenger newcomer, originally built for speakeasy bar styled in opulent scarlet velvet that serves as
Celebrity Cruises in the 1990s, set off on its maiden voyage a backdrop for immersive skits led by professional actors.
in June, becoming the line’s fifth ship. Marella’s fleet shares The conservatory-style Summer House bar with its
the fun, resort-style feel of its parent company, package- retractable roof makes another enjoyable addition, along
holiday giant Tui, and Voyager adds to this with vibrant with the Electric Rooms bar, lounge and casino where late-
decor and fun features, personified by life-sized statues of night music rules the airwaves.
neon-bright zebras dotted across the decks. When it’s time to go to bed, Voyager comes up trumps
with two new plush one-bedroom suites that can
EXPERIENCE accommodate up to four people and are themed on popular
There are numerous quirky touches, from lazy hammocks cruise destinations St Lucia and Santorini.
strung across cabin balconies to the Bring me Bubbles But one of the strongest and most enduring features of
button in Flutes Champagne bar to summon waiters. this new ship is the warmth and efficiency of the crew that
These can also be found on Marella’s other ships, but makes the perfect complement to its roll call of amenities.
Voyager has its own clutch of first-time draws, one of the Marella Voyager will spend this summer travelling the
most impressive being The Kitchen food hall, replacing a Mediterranean, sailing from Palma, before relocating to the
traditional buffet with eight eateries serving various cuisines. Caribbean for winter.
Guests can opt for noodles from BamBoo, Greek pittas
from Athena’s or curries from The Banyan Leaf. The Pastry HOW TO BOOK
Crust is a pie-lover’s heaven offering the unusual option of A one-week Taste of the Tropics round-trip Caribbean
the fish and chip pie, while the Gravy Boat, for traditional cruise from Barbados, including Tobago, Grenada and St
roasts, serves a novel Yorkshire pudding wrap. Lucia, departing on December 3, 2023, starts at £1,423 per
Meanwhile, the Silver Fork speciality restaurant serves person, based on two people sharing an interior cabin on
British favourites with a modern twist: dishes include chip all-inclusive. Flights are included. tui.co.uk/cruise C T
&
Right, top row: Marella Voyager’s spa offers a range of treatments; fireworks at the christening ceremony
Middle row: Speciality restaurant Silver Fork plates up modern takes on British heritage cuisine
Bottom row: Abuela’s Mexican diner is a new addition; the new one-bedroom suites sleeps four

PICTURES: TOM FALLON; LAUREN MUSTOE
REVIEWS

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ASK THE
EXPERTS NEXT
Got a question about your next cruise
holiday? Get advice from our experts
by emailing info@cruiseandtravel.co.uk ISSUE…
ON SALE SEPTEMBER 1
We’re keen for late summer sun but the

price of hotels in the Med is insane! Is it
worth looking for a cruise deal instead?
Katie Wilson, head of cruise and stay,
Bolsover Cruise Club
Yes – if you compare a land-based holiday to a
cruise, the latter is often more cost-effective and premium.
For instance, a Royal Caribbean cruise has a plethora of
amenities such as kids’ clubs, water sports, and Broadway-style
shows, to name just a few. The value-added experiences surpass
any hotel in terms of opportunities and entertainment.
On the other hand, luxury cruise lines like Silversea provide
an unmatched level of service, often outshining even the most
opulent hotels. Exquisite cuisine and fine wines are included in the
package, while allowing you to sail the world in style.
For anyone seeking a last-minute holiday, a cruise deal is worth
considering, as it offers a premium trip at significantly better value.
My husband and I want to go away for our

ruby wedding anniversary next July, but
we don’t want to be on a ship with lots of
families. What would you recommend?
James Cole, founder and managing director,
PICTURES: ROYAL CARIBBEAN; GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK PHOTO/DIMAMORGAN12
Panache Cruises
When it comes to cruises that offer a more sophisticated, relaxed
atmosphere, several lines are strictly adult-only, including Saga,
Viking and Virgin Voyages. Others will have specific ships that are
adult-only such as P&O Cruises’ Arcadia and Aurora.
Many popular destinations will be crowded with people of all
ages in summer, so if you crave peace and tranquillity, the places
RETURN TO JAPAN
you visit are just as important as your choice of line and ship.
Scandinavia is hard to beat in the summer, for instance. SUSTAINABLE
CENTRAL AMERICA
As a general rule, you won’t find many young children on river
or expedition cruises, and although luxury cruise lines operate
smaller ships, there are fewer people onboard. The intimate ships
of lines like Regent Seven Seas, Silversea, Seabourn and Oceania
would be a great place to start. You might also want to consider
a sail-powered vessel, like Windstar Cruises. All offer a refined
NORTHERN LIGHTS
experience that will be perfect for your anniversary celebration.

CELEBRITY TRAVELS
SI M ON W ESTON
C ruising is a great adventure because you travel to so

many different places and I enjoy meeting lots of
people on board – it’s a whole community at sea.
I’ve been on quite a few cruises – with Cunard, Fred Olsen,
Saga and more – and I’ve enjoyed them all, even though I’m
a lousy sailor. I get seasick running a bath!
We did one cruise to the Antarctic with Fred Olsen, and
thankfully the Drake Passage was very calm but I still had
moments where I needed to take medication. We joined
the ship at Punta Arenas in Chile, then went to Ushuaia in
southern Argentina and down to the Antarctic peninsula,
which was absolutely magical. There were whales, sea lions,
penguins everywhere – it was spectacular.
Then we went up to the Falklands, which is the first
time I’d been since I went there 41 years ago. They did
a memorial service and sailaway with the whole of the
Falkland Islands backlit by the sun. It was unbelievably
emotional – I must admit to having a lump in the throat.
My parents were in the forces so I grew up around the
world. I was brought up in Singapore for a few years and I’d
love to go back; it’s changed dramatically since I was a child.
I want to go to China – I’m fascinated by Chinese history
and culture – and go back to Japan, Australia, New Zealand
and maybe even visit Tasmania for the first time. There’s
loads left to do!
I’m looking forward to going back to the Norwegian
fjords [with Princess Cruises]. I don’t think you can ever get
over seeing how beautiful the landscape is – the coastline,
the small islands and isolated communities where they jump
The Falklands War veteran and frequent in a boat like we jump in our cars. Norwegians have such a
fantastic lifestyle, except you’d have to take out a mortgage
cruise traveller is returning to the scenic just to have a pint!
Norwegian fjords this summer I love the great entertainers, comedians and the crew
onboard – they’re always so kind and helpful on all the
cruise lines we’ve been on. I’m very grateful and fortunate
to be allowed to lecture on these ships, and that my stories
continue to resonate with people.
I hope they take away that yes, I’ve been through
something quite tragic and very dramatic, but that wasn’t
the point of my life. I’m defined by what I did about it, not
PICTURE: DEBORAH TITHERINGTON; VISIT NORWAY
what happened to me. We all face tragic moments in our

lives that we’d prefer not to face, but there’s so much joy in
life too – it’s what you do about it that counts. C T
&
Simon Weston joins Princess Cruises’ 14-night Land of the

Above: Simon is looking Midnight Sun cruise, departing August 19 on Sky Princess,
forward to sharing his inspiring with Princess Standard fares from £1,749 per person, based on
stories with Princess guests two sharing a balcony stateroom. princess.com
Right: This cruise will take in
the beautiful Nærøyfjord + For more celebrity interviews, go to cruiseandtravel.co.uk
THINKING CRUISE? THINK NCL.
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& TRAVEL

The joy of celebrating life, with indulgent cuisine. S M A L L S H I P L U X U R Y.

It’s the personal experiences that will last a lifetime.

CRUISE ANDTR AVEL.CO.UK AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2023 | CRUISE & TR AVEL 3

10-night Tyrrhenian Treasures & Malta

CARIBBEAN Spice up an island-

CRUISE ANDTR AVEL.CO.UK AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2023 | CRUISE & TR AVEL 5

permission of the publishers. The

6 CRUISE & TR AVEL | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2023 CRUISE ANDTR AVEL.CO.UK

• International return fights from London

ORDER YOUR FREE 2024 EXPEDITION BROCHURE NOW

PICTURE: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/ZIBA PHOTO MEDIA

8 CRUISE & TR AVEL | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2023 CRUISE ANDTR AVEL.CO.UK

+ Turn to page 42 to read more about glaciers

CRUISE ANDTR AVEL.CO.UK AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2023 | CRUISE & TR AVEL 9

beaches, plus plenty of places to explore, from

+ Turn to page 28 for more European

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CRUISE ANDTR AVEL.CO.UK AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2023 | CRUISE & TR AVEL 11

Island Princess 12 Nights 30 Oct 2023

Cruise & Stay fares from

The Cruise Centre

pelicans, frigate birds, herons, Antillean piculets, the

CRUISE ANDTR AVEL.CO.UK AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2023 | CRUISE & TR AVEL 13

14 CRUISE & TR AVEL | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2023 CRUISE ANDTR AVEL.CO.UK

A fun-packed family zone, Park19,

Cruises in its latest range of sailings. requesting more activity spaces.

FIVE-STAR ADVENT URES

Experience the medieval magic

Königswinter, the inspiration

EL CAMINO PÉROLA SET POCKETALK

18 CRUISE & TR AVEL | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2023 CRUISE ANDTR AVEL.CO.UK

David in Florence, the Mona Lisa

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20 CRUISE & TR AVEL | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2023 CRUISE ANDTR AVEL.CO.UK

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22 CRUISE & TR AVEL | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2023 CRUISE ANDTR AVEL.CO.UK

CRUISE ANDTR AVEL.CO.UK AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2023 | CRUISE & TR AVEL 23

A s you might expect from somewhere

Château Frontenac, where I tread the boards

CRUISE ANDTR AVEL.CO.UK AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2023 | CRUISE & TR AVEL 25

Norwegian Cruise Line offers a five-hour Buenos Aires

26 CRUISE & TR AVEL | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2023 CRUISE ANDTR AVEL.CO.UK

A omori’s futuristic skyline, dominated

from Japanese folklore, then paraded through

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28 CRUISE & TR AVEL | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2023 CRUISE ANDTR AVEL.CO.UK

CRUISE ANDTR AVEL.CO.UK AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2023 | CRUISE & TR AVEL 29

In the new age of travel, many of us are looking for authentic,

The 36-guest yacht was built in 2015 and refurbished

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KRKA NATIONAL PARK in Sibenik features the multi-

VIS, closed to foreigners until 1991, was a major player in

32 CRUISE & TR AVEL | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2023 CRUISE ANDTR AVEL.CO.UK

some forest bathing at the fertile Krka National Park in Sibenik

flexibility of a voyage with few restrictions and plenty of leisurely

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10-DAY MEDITERRANEAN: 11-DAY MEDITERRANEAN: 12-DAY EUROPE:

Barcelona, Spain Cavtat, Croatia Saint-Tropez, France

Unpack once and experience Private stateroom Complimentary meals,

Evening entertainment, Daytime activities such as Youth programmes

FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO BOOK

CRUISE ANDTR AVEL.CO.UK AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2023 | CRUISE & TR AVEL 37