Toyota 3.

4 Swap Guide
97 4RUNNER 5SPD DONOR + 93 P/U 5SPD V6
RECIPIENT
BY: NUTTYNU ( Instagram @nuttynu_4x4 )
Disclaimer: This is to be used as a guide only. These guide are base off of my particular swap.
Your set-up may vary depending on your vehicle etc.

GETTING YOUR DONOR ENGINE: OPTION 1: Buy engine/ search for random
parts, ecu misc etc.
Option #2: BUY WHOLE RIG/ PART OUT THE REST AND MAKE MONEY TO
FUND SWAP
ALSO GOOD SINCE YOU GET TO LEARN HOW RO REMOVE THE MOTOR
OUT & HOW IT GOES TOGETHER. LOOK INTO AUCTIONS

DONOR PARTS NEEDED:

INSIDE CAB : OBD2 WIRE / (pass side kick panel) BIG latch PLUG+ ONE SMALL
ATTACH / ONE ECU PLUG FROM DASHBOARD HARNESS
ECU HAS 4 PLUG/ 3 IS FROM THE ENGINE HARNESS, ONE IS DASHBOARD
MOTOR: EVERYTHING ATTACH TO MOTOR
AIRBOX MAF/ FAN ETC
CAT CONVERTER + TWO O2 SENSOR + FLANGE AFTER CAT CONVERTER

PARTS TO KEEP ON 3.0: OIL PAN & OIL PICK-UP TUBE

DIP STICK (OPTIONAL)
ENGINE MOUNTS (CHECK BUSHING IF THEY’RE STILL GOOD)
RADIATOR & RAD SHROUD, & FAN
CUT ENGINE HARNESS AT THE POWER STEERING AND KEEP FROM THERE
TO ECU AND T-CASE
REVERSE & 4X4 SWITCH WILL BE USED.
ECU PLUGS AND SPEED SENSOR PLUGS ARE DONOR TO BE SENT IT

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 3.0 RUBBER GROMMET FOR ENGINE WIRE HARNESS
A/C TOP PLATE & P/S BANJO BOLT.

THINGS TO DO FIRST : WASH 3.4 ENGINE IF POSSIBLE (degrease)/ CLEAN

MOTOR IS EASIER TO WORK ON /GET ENGINE STAND. WASH RECIPIENT RIG
BREAK CRANK BOLT IF YOU CAN WHILE MOTOR CAN RUN (bump start
method, mine was very stubborn to break loose)

WIRING HARNESS : TOY ONLY SWAP $400 + $75 CORE CHARGE

SEND IN DONOR PLUGS TO GET WORK ON, WHILE YOU DO THE REST OF
ENGINE TUNE-UP
5-8 WEEKS TURN-AROUND
OPTION B: BUILD YOUR OWN ( I have no knowledge in building harness)
3.4 AUTO INTO MANUAL TRANS MIGHT REQUIRED MORE WORK
PREP ENGINE FOR SWAP:
TUNE -UP & PARTS LIST

CLEAN ENGINE AS POSSIBLE

HEAD GASKETS (optional)
KNOCK SENSOR X2 NEEDED (OPTIONAL)
KNOCK SENSOR WIRE ( A MUST, SINCE OLD ONE IS CRUMBLES)
#82219-34010—- $40
REPLACE ALL INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKET
CLEAN INTAKE MANIFOLD, DEGREASE & PRESSURE WASH
CLEAN/ REBUILD FUEL INJECTOR ( HIGHLY RECOMMEND)
IF YOU DON’T PLAN TO CLEAN, REPLACE WITH NEW SEALS
CLEAN IAC + NEW GASKET
REPLACE PCV + NEW HOSE #1220462010
CHECK ALL RUBBER HOSE AND REPLACE IF NEEDED

REPLACE SPARK PLUGS ( DENSO K16TR11)

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 REPLACE SPARK PLUGS WIRES ( NGK 4412 RC-TE66 )
CYLINDER PLUG PATTERN- 1-4 / 3-6 / 5-2
CONFIRM COIL PACKS ARE GOOD
CHECK VALVE CLEARANCE
REPLACE VALVE COVER GASKET, SPARK PLUGS GASKET ETCS
FULL TIMING BELT OVER HAUL + WATER PUMPS + THERMOSTAT
TIMING KIT AISIN TKT-025
THERMOSTAT- #90916-0307582
CHECK FAN PULLEY BRACKET / AISIN # FBT-004
REPLACE CAM SEALS X2 / #90311-38051
REPLACE FRONT MAIN SEAL & REAR MAIN SEAL
FRONT- #90311-40022 / REAR #90311-A0027 (FITS 3.0 SAME)
REPLACE CRANK PULLEY BOLT( ONE TIME USE) #9011916006
REPLACE AIR FILTER
REPLACE ALL 3 BELTS; P/S IS LONGEST/ ALT NEXT AND A/C SMALLEST
A/C 4PK870M/ ALTERNATOR #4PK1050M / P-S 4PK1070M
REPLACE EXHAUST GASKET + BROKEN STUDS
EXHAUST NUTS (X21/ ONE TIME USES- EBAY )#9008017187
REPLACE CLUTCH - 3.4 clutch -AISIN CKT-040
3.4 FLYWHEEL - LUK #LFW199
3.4 FLYWHEEL BOLT #90105-10138/ X8 NEEDED
EXHAUST STUD- #90116-10150
EXHAUST GASKET - REMFLEX 7007
EXHAUST PIPE FLANGE GASKET OEM #90917-06065./ NEED X4 / PARTS
STORE #61040
CAT CONVERTER GASKET : PARTS STORE #61039
02 SENSOR MOUNT : YOTA SHOP KIT-1098
OIL UNION- #90405-10033 / OEM ON AMAZON
SPARK PLUG TUBE GASKET- #11193-70010
CORRECT DIPSTICK- ORDERED FROM TOY ONLY SWAPS

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 MOUNTING : DIRECT MOUNT TO 3.0 BELL HOUSING
MUST USE 3.0 ENGINE MOUNT. (Other engine will vary)
USE 3.0 BOTTOM BELL HOUSE BRACKETS, MAKE SURE TO INSTALL
BOTTOM DUST SHIELD. USE SWIVEL SOCKETS. X6 MAIN 17MM BOLTS

PLUMBING & COOLING: HEATER HOSE, USED ALL 3.0

3.0 RADIATOR & COOLANT BOTTLE
3.4 FAN CLUTCH AND 3.0 FAN USED
(3.4 FAN WORKS BUT WONT CLEAR 3.0 FAN SHROUD)
TOP RAD HOSE: (STOCK 3.4 HOSE): NAPA #8249
BOTTOM RAD HOSE: DIRECT FIT/NO CUT/ NAPA #8453
GOOD TIME TO USE CORRECT COOLANT, ZEREX ASIAN PINK OR
TOYOTA RED COOLANT (ABOUT 2 GAL NEEDED)

OIL PAN & DIPSTICK : NO MOD ON THE 3.4 BAFFLE

Use 3.0 oil pan & pick up tube. One leg needs to be cut on the 3.0 pick up tube ( IFS only/
SAS will be different)
3.0 dipstick can be use, but modification must be done to mount it (cutting manifold heat
shield) Ordered correct one for about $60
Need dip stick union. Install dipstick AFTER installing engine mounts.
Plug original dip stick hole with M12 bolt/ hole need to be tap/ add RTV to thread bolt for
extra seal
2000 and newer 3.4 motor needs to be drill for new dip stick location
Older 3.4 come with new hole drill already, tap out the plug from inside block while the oil
pan is OFF
Use black RTV hight temp for oil pan gasket / avoid cork or paper gasket

FUEL SYSTEMS: use 3.4 fuel line. Flip it to passenger side. Threads right into 3.0 fuel
hard line/ no mod needed.
Fuel return line/ 3-4 feet of fuel line route to PASS side into hardline
Fuel Regulator return air line connect into intake/ ISR mod deleted.

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 Originally connect to air box.

ELECTRICAL: Wire harness from TOS for easiest plug n play.

(Unless you know how to wire yourself)
TOS WIRING ADAPTER INCLUDES : ONE ECU PLUG, 2 PLUGS INTO THE 3.0
DASH HARNESS
BIG SNAP PLUG, STARTER TRIGGER, SPEED SENSOR & OBD2 WIRE
3.4 ECU has two legs to be removed (UNBOLT SCREWS), fits into PASS kick panel
perfectly.
Starter trigger goes thru firewall into engine bay
Speed sensor plug goes underneath PASS floor board.
Use 3.4 positive & negative wire. Plenty of length.
Strip positive wire and use only that, the rest; trigger starts etc can be trashed
Negative wire bolts under oil filter on engine block.
Positive wire to starter ( use the 3.4 plastic guide that mount to oil pan to secure wire )
One hot wire to fuse box: you can extend existing one (not recommend ) OR
New one connects from starter to 80 amp fuse box / easy and clean install
TACH MOD/ 10k resistor solder back of tack/ EASY. Don’t stress out.
4x4 Switch & Reverse Switch needs to be wire into 3.4 harness/ leave about 2 feet of pigtail
on switch.
Reverse is the first round one, 4x4 switch is the smaller rectangle one & two 02 sensor wire
from 3.4 original harness used. When splicing, the wire are similar in color. Splice base off color
similarities.

ACCESSORIES: Oil cooler delete, Cold air intake/ powder coat valve covers/ intake
manifold, Headers etc

EMISSION & VACUUM LINES : 3.4 EVAP BOX USED

A.D.D DELETE & CHARCOAL CANISTER DELETE PRIOR TO SWAP ALREADY
EVAP ZIP TIE FOR NOW/ MAY DELETE IN FUTURE.
(CUSTOM MOUNT CAN BE MADE)

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 BRAKE BOOSTER CHECK VALVE/ CHECK VALVE IS DIRECTIONAL/ PUMP
BRAKES TO FEEL IT OR TAKE PHOTO OF ITS ORIENTATIONAL WHEN
REMOVING.

CROSS-OVER : 3.4 NEEDS TO BE FLIP TO DRIVER SIDE (WELD REQUIRE)

OR RUN AFTERMARKET HEADERS

CAT CONVERTER : 3.4 CAT WITH 3.4 02 SENSOR x2 sensor needed

MIGHT NEED NEW O2 SENSOR MOUNT TO BE WELD ON
Recycle/ Sell 3.0 CAT.

A/C SYSTEM : 3.4 COMPRESSOR USED WITH 3.0 TOP A/C PLATE
DIRECT BOLT ON / 3.0 AC HARD LINES BOLTS DIRECTLY ON
3.4 STOCK BELT USED

POWER STEERING: USE 3.4 P/S PUMP + USE 3.0 HARD LINE AND 3.0 BANJO
BOLT WITH COPPER WASER. 3.0 LINE HAS A TAB, CUT OFF TO FIT P/S PUMP
3.4 STOCK BELT USED
MAKE SURE TO REALLY TIGHTEN IT OR IT WILL LEAK.
*BLEED SYSTEM BEFORE DRIVING/ USE ATF FLUID

CRUISE CONTROL: REMOVED FOR NOW, WILL CONNECT IN THE FUTURE

THROTTLE CABLE: USED 3.0, BUT HAD TO BEND 3.4 CABLE PLATE
Front cable bracket. Bolt from below for hood clearance

OIL PRESSURE SENDING UNIT: MUST use 3.0 oil sending unit or else it will not
work & oil gauge might blow. DIRECT FIT, 3.4 PLUG IS THE SAME.

ALTERNATOR: 3.4 ALTERNATOR WORKS FINE/ NO MOD

3.4 STOCK BELT USED

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 REMOVE 3.0 STEERING RACK DUST SHIELD
3.0 CAME WITH OVAL AND ROUND ALTERNATOR PLUG
CHECK TO SEE IF THEY’RE THE SAME. IF NOT, SPLICE ACCORDING TO
COLOR CODE. MY 3.4 ALTERNATOR & MY 3.0 WIRE WERE BOTH OVAL. DIRECT
PLUG IN PLAY.

STARTER : 3.0 or 3.4 work/ starter trigger plugs different on them

I ended using the 3.4 starter, cause my TOS wiring adapter was made to plug into a 3.4
The 3.4 starter BOTTOM hole must be drill so the bolt can passed thru and bolt into the
bell housing. Top bolt slides thru the bell housing and thread into top hole on starter. * very little
room to tight bottom bolt.

BATTERY RELOCATION: 3.0 COOLANT BOTTLE STAYS IN ORIGINAL

LOCATION. BATTERY FITS DIRECTLY, ONE HOLE TO BE DRILL ON FENDER FOR
BATTER POLE HOLE TO COME THRU.
EXTENDED BATTER POLE HOLDER MIGHT BE NEED(WAS WAS TOO
SHORT)
USE PLASTIC BATTERY TRAY FOR BOTTOM SUPPORT.
FACE POSITIVE POST INWARD AND NEGATIVE POST ON FENDER SIDE.
(CUSTOM BATTERY TRAY IS OPTIONAL)

AIRBOX INTAKE MODS: 3.4 air box/ mounting arms outside box must be cut off to
clear.
Can be held down with custom mounting bolts. Hung loose for now.
Snorkel in the future. ISR mod, use pic plugs, new 3.4 intake have 3 piece/ older one have
one piece

CLUTCH: USE 3.4 CLUTCH, 3.4 FLYWHEEL AND 3.0 THROW OUT
PILOT BEARING IS THE SAME FOR 3.4 & 3.0
3.0 CLUTCH CAN BE USE TOO, 3.0 FLYWHEEL BOLTS MIGHT NEED GRID
DOWN/ HAVE NOT CONFIRM.

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 MAKE SURE CLUTCH IS FACING RIGHT WAY. OUTER LIP FACES INTO
CRANK. * NEW CLUTCH BREAK IN ABOUT 500 MILES OF CITY DRIVING.

HOOD CLEARANCE: 3/8 BODY LIFT/ HOOD SCOOP OR CUT HOOD BRACE
HOOD BRACE CUT BUT STILL RUBS A LITTE. MIGHT NEED TO ADD
PADDING ON HOOD

EXHAUST WORK: CUSTOM WORK NEEDED/ DIY / USED 2 1/4” PIPING

CUT THE 2-N-1 PIPE AT THE CLOSET TO CAT, AND THEN CLOCK CAT AT
SLIGHT ANGLE TO FIT UNDER CROSS MEMBER, USE 3.4 FLANGE TO CONNECT
NEW MID PIPE. MUFFLER OPTION VARY AFTERWARDS.
2 1/4” AUTO PARTS PIPE: WALKER #47973
MISTAKES & TIPS
BUMP START CRANK BOLT POSSIBLE
DON’T USE HEAT ON HARMONIC BALANCER
INSTALL EXHAUST MANIFOLD LAST
INSTALL CROSS OVER LAST OR ONCE OFF ENGINE STAND
INSTALL SPARK PLUG SEAL CORRECTLY
INSTALL SPARK PLUG WIRE ONCE ENGINE IS MOUNTED
(CAN GET DAMAGE BY ENGINE HOIST)
DO ALL MAINTENANCE WHILE ENGINE IS OFF
CAUTION WHEN LIFTING ENGINE
WATCH FOR KINK WIRE HARNESS ETC
MOTOR MOUNTS FIRST, THEN DIP STICK, & OIL COOLER
MOTOR MOUNT CAN BE INSTALL WITH MANIFOLD ON ALREADY
LIFT ENGINE COMPLETELY UP WHILE ON ENGINE STAND AND THEN
REMOVE ENGINE STAND, BOLT CAN BEND (TO ME IT DID)
REMOVE STEERING RACK DUST SHIELD
HAMMER HEAT SHIELD BACK ON DRIVE KICK BOARD
REMOVE HEAT SHIELD ON DRIVER’S INSIDE RAIL WHILE ENGINE IS OUT
MAKE SURE 4X4 & REVERSE SWITcH LENGHT IS PLENTY(2’ pigtail)

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USE COOLANT BLEED FUNNEL PROPERLY/ PARK INCLINE TO HELP
TIGHTEN P/S BOLT TIGHT OR IT WILL LEAK
2-3 PERSON TO HELP LINE UP ENGINE TO TRANNY WHEN INSTALL IS
IDEAL.
JACK TANNY SLIGHT UPWARDS TO HELP ENGINE SLIDE IN