Professional Documents
Culture Documents
6
RAMEZ ELIAS
IN MEMORIAM 19582016
CONTENTS
Derek Conrad Murray • Sunanda Sanyal
CONSULTING EDITORS
Rory Bester • Isolde Brielmaier • Coco Fusco
NUMBER 38–39, 2016
Kendell Geers • Michael Godby • Elizabeth Harney
Thomas Mulcaire • O. Donald Odita • Gilane Tawadros
Frank Ugiomoh
22 DEFACING THE GAZE
MANAGING EDITOR AND REIMAGINING THE
Clare Ulrich
BLACK BODY
GRAPHIC DESIGN CONTEMPORARY CARIBBEAN WOMEN
Marshall Hopkins ARTISTS
Michelle Stephens
ADVISORY BOARD
Norbert Aas • Florence Alexis • Rashid Diab
Manthia Diawara • Elsabet Giorgis • Freida High 32 BLACK, QUEER, DANDY
dele jegede • Kellie Jones • Sandra Klopper THE BEAUTY WITHOUT WHOM
David Koloane • Bongi Dhlomo Mautloa WE CANNOT LIVE
Gerardo Mosquera • Helen Evans Ramsaran Monica L. Miller
Ibrahim El Salahi • Janet Stanley • Obiora Udechukwu
Gavin Younge • Octavio Zaya 40 POSING THE BLACK PAINTER
KERRY JAMES MARSHALL’S PORTRAITS OF
Cover: Barkley L. Hendricks, Photo Bloke, 2016. Oil and acrylic on linen, 72 x
48 in. Courtesy the artist and Jack Shainman Gallery, New York. © Barkley L.
ARTISTS’ SELFPORTRAITS
Hendricks Peter Erickson
I
t is with deep sorrow that we, the editors of Nka:
Journal of Contemporary African Art, mourn
the death of Ramez Elias, who passed away on
Thursday, April 21, 2016, in Paris, France. Ramez
was the designer of Nka for the last sixteen years. A
remarkably talented artist, Ramez has left an indelible
mark on the design of Nka, shaping its character, not
only as a leading journal, but also as an elegant one in
the field of contemporary and African and African
diaspora art. Ramez was not just a brilliant designer; he
was a dear friend. He was generous, kind-hearted, and
a very caring human being. Words fail to convey our
loss and sadness. But here at Nka, we shall continue to
build on the design vision he established and that has
taken us this far.
Ramez studied at the American University in Cairo
before moving to Ithaca, where he lived beginning in
1994. He was a multitalented and creative individual.
In addition to being a designer, he was also a gifted
theater actor who performed with groups such as Al
Warsha, an experimental theater company based in
Cairo, Egypt. Ramez hailed from a prominent Egyptian
family that played a pioneering role in the rise of the
independent publishing industry in Egypt since the
early part of the twentieth century. His grandfather,
Elias Anton Elias, a well-known modernist intellectual
and the author of one of the first Arabic-English dic-
tionaries in Egypt, founded in 1913 the Elias Modern
Publishing House, which has contributed tremen-
dously to publishing in the fields of literature, arts, and
children’s books.
Our sincere condolences to our dear friend Natalie
Melas, Ramez’s wife; his brother, Nadim Elias, and his
wife, Laura Elias; his nephews, Sammy and Karim; his
niece, Nada El Omari; his brother-in-law, Majdi El
Omari; and the extended family and friends in Egypt
and Ithaca, New York.
Rest in peace, Ramez. Your memory and the beauty
you brought to our lives will forever stay with us and
guide us to better horizons.
Okwui Enwezor
Chika Okeke-Agulu
Salah M. Hassan
Journal of Contemporary African Art • 38–39 • November 2016
DOI # 10.1215/10757163-3777031 © 2016 by Nka Publications
Nka • 5
From the Editors Diakhaté, and Jaira Placide (New York University,
Institute of African American Affairs); Awam
Ampka (New York University, Tisch School of the
BLACK PORTRAITURE[S] Arts, Department of Social and Cultural Analysis);
Thelma Golden (The Studio Museum in Harlem);
In Bamako we say, “I ka nye tan,” which, in English, Jean-Paul Colleyn (L’École des hautes études en
means “You look well,” but, in fact, it means, “You sciences sociales, Centre d’études Africaines); and
look beautiful like that.” Anne-Christine Taylor-Descola, Anna Laban, and
Seydou Keita Christine Barthe (Musée du quai Branly).
H
The essays offered in this special issue of Nka
ow the black body has been imaged in the were gathered from that historic meeting in Paris
West has always been a rich site for global from January 17 to 20, 2013, and offer the most
examination and contestation. The represen- cutting-edge perspectives on the production and
tation and depiction of black peoples often has been skill of black self-representation, desire, and the
governed by prevailing attitudes about race and sex- exchange of the gaze from the nineteenth century to
uality. From the ubiquitous Renaissance paintings the present day in fashion, film, art, and the archive.
that picture black people as the sublime backdrop Artists, historians, designers, writers, and image
or purposely attracting the lustful gaze of the other, makers from around the world gathered in Paris
to the 2012 French Elle magazine’s article on First to discuss the state of the black portrait circulating
Lady Michelle Obama’s sense of style finally filtering in the present and in the past. They asked: How are
down to the fashion-strapped black masses, to the these images—both positive and negative—exposed
2012 Italian Vogue special issue on African fashion, to define, replicate, and transform the black body?
there is evidence that discussion of the black body Why and how does the black body become a pur-
remains relevant. How the black body is displayed chasable, global marketplace, and what are its lega-
and viewed changes with each generation, con- cies? In what visual and nonvisual spaces do these
stantly allowing young diasporic innovators from images and instances either take permanent resi-
the Americas, Europe, Africa, and the Caribbean dence, reemerge, recycle, or simply become illegi-
to add their own ideas about reinvention and ble? How can performing blackness be liberating for
self-representation. To be sure, the universality both the performer and the audience? Can the black
of black culture and its global presence has played body be deracialized to emphasize cultural group-
a leading role in mainstream sports, music, perfor- ings, encouraging appropriation and varied perfor-
mance, fashion, and visual arts, with implications mances across racial lines? Finally, and importantly,
worthy of much critique. what are the responses and implications?
Paris, an internationally key and highly These are some of the questions that were posed
influential Western space in all things concerning over the four-day conference held at noteworthy
the visual arts and modernity, was the perfect venues across the snowy city of Paris, including
stage for Black Portraiture[s]: The Black Body L’École des Beaux-Arts, the Université de Paris
in the West, the fifth in the series of visual art 7, and the musée du quai Branly, where a riveting
conferences organized by Harvard University film series was held on the last day. Discussions
and New York University since 2004 and jointly also focused on aesthetics, vernacular style, fashion,
presented in 2013 with L’École des hautes études en and ethnography in describing a sense of place and
sciences sociales (the School for Advanced Studies identity. Day after day, participants and presenters
in the Social Sciences), musée du quai Branly, and conducted diverse visual readings of the notion of
Cornell University. We were honored to participate the black portrait while challenging conventional
as conference organizers with professionals perspectives on identity, beauty, cosmopolitanism,
representing a wide range of disciplines. They and community in Africa and its diaspora.
included Henry Louis Gates Jr. (Harvard University, Through a series of panels, films, and read-
W. E. B. Du Bois Institute); Manthia Diawara, Lydie ings, Black Portraiture[s] included a wide range of
Journal of Contemporary African Art • 38–39 • November 2016
6 • Nka DOI 10.1215/10757163-3641612 © 2016 by Nka Publications
discussions relating to the experiences of a people contemporary black portraiture. All in all, we believe
who have been caricatured through much of visual that the essays presented in Black Portraiture[s]
history, particularly in nineteenth-century anthro- offer an important collective story told through
pological and colonial photography. Presenters multiple voices.
also explored how African men and women used What makes this collection of essays so exciting
photography, and later environmental portraiture, and critical is its broad focus on the black portrait
film, fashion, art, and performance, to experiment and the important aesthetic and ideological issues it
with varied ideas of themselves and to ultimately continues to engage. Drawing on the ideas and works
honor how they see themselves and wish to be seen of leading and emerging writers of our time while
by others. For example, they demonstrated how including the discussions of photographers, schol-
some photographers, often in collaboration with ars, artists, curators, and filmmakers of the African
their subjects, created idealized poses, while others diaspora, the Black Portraiture[s] conference clearly
displayed active confidence through style and dress. revolved around collaboration, building upon the
Scholars, artists, and writers alike unabashedly strengths of each of the organizing institutions as
proved how these individuals sought to celebrate well as the curators, writers, artists, filmmakers, and
their beauty and style, whether in Senegal, France, photographers whose visualization of the African
Jamaica, New York, or all around the world. diaspora has guided these crucial discussions about
As in the past, photographs and film today are art and representation. By featuring some of the
considered visual testimony of a collective memory. most extraordinary writers, historians, artists, and
Even now, race and power guide our visual reading theorists working today, we hope this special issue
of these images, which both entice and incite. What of Nka, based on the conference, enables readers to
we imagine and know about these subjects through see that the image remains ever powerful in an age
the visual image is mediated through the insight of where black lives matter.
curators, historians, writers, poets, photographers,
filmmakers, and visual artists and is framed within Cheryl Finley is an associate professor and director
the experience of the idealized portrait, whether of visual studies in the Department of the History of
in art, fashion, film, or documentary photography. Art at Cornell University. Deborah Willis is profes-
“Having a portrait taken by [the well-known Malian sor and chair of the Department of Photography and
photographer] Seydou Keita . . . signified that the Imaging at New York University’s Tisch School of the
sitter was modern,” according to Manthia Diawara. Arts.
“To go before Keita’s lens is to pass the test of
modernity, to be transformed as an urbane subject Notes
even if one has no power in the market or at the 1 Manthia Diawara, “Talk of the Town,” Artforum 36 (February
1998): 67.
train station.”1 Finley/Willis
Thus, African photographers today are recon-
structing their experiences of life by capturing
moments through visual testimony. Writers and
curators today are framing exhibitions in novel
ways in urban spaces as well as in popular museum
settings. By including a discussion of fashion, we
continue to bring international attention to con-
temporary designers and photographers and bring
to light the social and aesthetic impact their work
has made in defining this art form. Some authors
use theoretical and analytical tools of art history
and film studies, while others mine the wealth of
popular imagery to demonstrate the complexity
found in mapping and reading both historical and
I
n 2012, for the Paris Triennial, I organized a
Françoise Vergès program called “The Slave at the Louvre: An
Invisible Humanity,” hosting guided visits to
look for the ghosts of slaves in the Louvre. Built in
1793, the museum collects work dating through
1848 (everything post-1848 being housed in the
Musée d’Orsay). These two dates carry particular
resonance for the history of slavery in the French
colonies. On August 29, 1793, following the 1791
slaves’ insurrection, the French colony of Saint-
Domingue abolished slavery, and on April 27, 1848,
slavery was finally abolished in all of the French
colonies. In May 1802 Napoleon Bonaparte rejected
the decree of February 4, 1794, abolishing slavery
in French colonies, and reinstated slavery. France is
the only European country to have abolished slav-
ery twice.
It was thus interesting to visit the Louvre, whose
collection is framed between these two dates, to see
how modern slavery has been represented, or not.
Journal of Contemporary African Art • 38–39 • November 2016
8 • Nka DOI 10.1215/10757163-3641623 © 2016 by Nka Publications
Jan Steen (1626–79), La Mauvaise compagnie (Wicked Company). Oil on wood, 0.414 x 0.655 m.
Courtesy Musée du Louvre. © RMN-Grand Palais (Musée du Louvre). Photo: Adrien Didierjean
Vergès Nka • 9
Jean-Baptiste Simeon Chardin (1699–1779), The Smoker’s Case, c. 1737. Oil on canvas, 32 x 42 cm. Courtesy Musée du Louvre.
Photo: Herve Lewandowski
For the guided visits, I chose to tour the galleries plantation economy to Europe. Paintings such as
as they were, rather than ask curators to look in Chardin’s The Smoker’s Case depict the world of the
the unexhibited pieces to find representations of eighteenth-century bourgeois home, where tobacco
enslaved persons or of slavery, and to walk through had entered the quotidian of European men.
the galleries in the search of an invisible humanity It was also important not to confuse representa-
and the traces, fragments, and shadows of its tions of blacks with representations of the enslaved.
ghostly presence. Our tour prompted discussion From the late 1400s to the early 1600s, Africans
of the intersection in the seventeenth century of living in or visiting Europe included artists, aris-
tobacco, masculinity, and loose mores (smoking and tocrats, saints, and diplomats. It was not until the
drinking, games of cards, prostitution, according second half of the nineteenth century that abolition-
to bourgeois norms), of which the Steen painting ist propaganda, especially British, popularized the
offers a glimpse. Additionally, we could trace the representation of the suffering body of the enslaved
itinerary of tobacco from slavery, dispossession, and and the cruelty of slave trade and slavery. On the
Vergès Nka • 11
tend to the encouragement of commerce, and all Spanish colonies), opening the way for the country
measures should be there taken, with a due regard to become the eighteenth-century global maritime
to its interest and advancement.”3 The two pillars power and the first slave trader. The treaty also
of free trade were the plantation in the Western boosted the European slave trade. Whereas between
colonies and free trade in the Eastern trading posts. 1630 and 1640 twenty to thirty thousand Africans
“The plantation trade gives employment to many per year were taken as slaves to European colonies,
thousand artificers here at home, and takes off a between 1740 and 1840 the number increased to
great quantity of our inferior manufactures. The between seventy and ninety thousand per year.
returns of all which are made in tobacco, cotton, During the European eighteenth century, inaugu-
ginger, sugars, indico, etc. by which we were not rated by the Treaty of Utrecht, 60 percent of the total
only supplied for our own consumption, but we had African captives were deported. The connection
formerly wherewithal to send to France, Flanders, between the demand for goods, as well as construc-
Hamburgh, the East Country and Holland, besides tion of palaces and fortresses and the necessity to
what we shipped for Spain and the Streights, etc.”4 enslave, is not, however, specific to colonial slavery.
Bonded labor and free trade were connected. In his Nevertheless, colonial slavery introduced the idea
Project for Perpetual Peace in Europe, first published that wealth rests both on the capacity to move a
in 1712, Abbé de Saint-Pierre argued that a confed- workforce around and on making that workforce
eration resulting from a contract and a balance of disposable.
power among European rival powers would allow Colonial slavery contributed to the fabrication of
the “Powers of Europe to form a sort of system “whiteness” in Europe. It is important to note that
among themselves, which unites them by a single the construction of whites vs. blacks and of anti-
religion, the same international law, morals, litera- black racism did not belong only to the history of
ture, commerce and a sort of equilibrium.”5 the colony or to the postslavery empire. These views
The 1713 Treaty of Utrecht speaks of the neces- were anchored in colonial slavery. In the eighteenth
sity of establishing peace “for the perpetual tranquil- century Europe had its own racialized minorities,
lity of the whole Christian world” and of “securing but the slave trade gave new meaning to racial
the tranquillity of Europe by a balance of power.” hierarchy. In the case of France, the decrees taken
It was a truly political program with geopolitical to regulate the presence of persons of African origin
consequences, giving Europe the power to rule over in France bring light to the history of whiteness.
international affairs in order to preserve a peace it On July 13, 1315, the king of France declared that
had unilaterally decided to be universal. It asked “the soil of France frees the slave that touches it”
European powers to forget the wrongs and damages (le sol de France affranchit l’esclave qui le touche).
that they had inflicted upon one another. Forgetting France became a land of free men (not yet “whites”).
crimes at home served two goals: to preserve In 1685, the Code Noir set a series of provisions to
European unity against common external enemies govern the lives of the enslaved, in the French col-
and to turn a blind eye to crimes committed outside onies. Poor French settlers brought as indentured
of Europe by a European power. Though Europe workers became “whites” with the consolidation of
remained divided, in this context “unity” meant that slavery.
European powers agreed that each could freely dis- At the beginning of the seventeenth century,
pose of the spoils of its conquest. The fictitious unity between five thousand and seven thousand people of
of Europe was important for maintaining hegemony African origin were living in France, mostly in Paris,
abroad. The new global order involved deporting occupying positions as slaves, domestics, workers,
Africans, pacifying what d’Avenant called “natives” craftsmen, tailors, seamstresses, musicians, and
and working out internal European competition for so on. In 1694 the first limitations on the entry of
the larger objective of preserving European global slaves were issued. In October 1716 new provisions
interests. limited more severely the entry of slaves, and for
Finally, the Treaty of Utrecht gave England the first time marriage between blacks and whites
the asiento (the monopoly on slave trade with the was forbidden. (In the colonies, it was forbidden by
Notes
1 In her intervention, Condé drew from Brazilian modernist
poet Oswald de Andrade’s “Manifesto Antropofago,” published
in 1928, in which the poet challenged the Western dualities civi-
lization/barbarism, modern/primitive to forge a singular culture.
Andrade turned the European accusation of savagery and canni-
balism against itself. Condé built on this and spoke of the practice
of reverse appropriation, of “cannibalism” as devouring European
culture to adapt it and incorporate it into the native self.
2 Michel-Rolph Trouillot, Silencing the Past: Power and the
Production of History (Boston: Beacon, 1995), 147.
3 Charles d’Avenant, The Political and Commercial Works of
That Celebrated Writer Charles d’Avenant, Relating on Trade and
Revenue of England, the Plantation Trade, the East-India Trade and
African Trade (London: R. Horsfield, 1771), 89.
4 Charles d’Avenant, “An Essay on the East-India Trade (1697),”
avalon.law.yale.edu/17th_century/eastindi.asp.
5 Abbé de Saint-Pierre, Projet pour rendre la paix perpétuelle en
Europe (1761). Jean-Jacques Rousseau repeated Saint-Pierre almost
verbatim in his The Plan for Perpetual Peace, on the Government
of Poland, and Other Writings on History and Politics, trans.
Christopher Kelly and Judith Bush (Hanover, NH: University Press
of New England, 2005), 29.
6 Jean-François Niort, Le Code Noir (Paris: Dalloz, 2012).
Vergès Nka • 13
WHO’S
ZOOMIN’
WHO?
THE EYES OF DONYALE LUNA
I
n 1996 Taschen Verlag, widely known for their
Richard J. Powell beautifully designed and reasonably priced art
books, joined forces with Museum Ludwig in
Cologne, Germany, to produce a spectacular 760-
page illustrated catalogue of the highlights from
the museum’s photographic collections. Among the
hundreds of historically significant photographs
that appeared in 20th Century Photography: Museum
Ludwig, Cologne, three especially enthralling photo-
graphs graced the book’s front, back, and spine: pho-
tojournalist Fritz Henle’s 1943 portrait of Nieves, one
of Mexican muralist Diego Rivera’s models; surreal-
ist Man Ray’s 1930 photographic detail Lips on Lips;
and fashion photographer Charlotte March’s 1966
photograph of the African American fashion model
Donyale Luna, shot for twen magazine. Taschen’s art
director, Mark Thomson, placed Charlotte March’s
Donyale Luna with Earrings for twen on the book’s
spine, giving the photograph a conspicuous place on
prospective bookshelves and, because of Luna’s cap-
tivating visage, conscripting the photograph to draw
bookstore browsers into Luna’s penetrating gaze.
This essay considers Charlotte March’s photograph,
paying special attention to her subject, the fashion
model and actress Donyale Luna (1945–79), and to
Luna’s extraordinary presence within the modern
fashion industry and the photographic enterprise,
circa 1966.1
Powell Nka • 17
(and, remarkably, after also having appeared on the considered the scene’s official chronicler. Fashion’s
cover of Harper’s Bazaar just a few months earlier), centrality to this “youthquake,” evident in the ready-
she quickly collided with the American fashion to-wear phenomenon of designer Mary Quant, the
industry’s glass ceiling for women of color, with her popularity of the miniskirt, and the deification
modeling assignments during the latter half of 1965 of the fashion model, invariably included David
rapidly plummeting in prestige to the secondary Bailey’s photographic subjects and their particular
(read “Negro”) advertising market. Richard histories. From Bailey’s fashion industry portraits
Avedon admitted years later that “for reasons of of clothing designer Ossie Clark, coiffeur Vidal
racial prejudice and the economics of the fashion Sassoon, and model/ex-girlfriend Jean Shrimpton,
business. . . . I was never permitted to photograph to those of such London scene makers as painter
[Donyale Luna] for publication again.”5 Coming David Hockney, actor Michael Caine, socialite
from one of the most important and influential Jacquetta (Lady Eliot), and assorted rock musicians
figures in the fashion industry, Avedon’s admission (i.e., the Beatles, the Rolling Stones, Jimi Hendrix,
underscored just how insidious and powerful and the Who), the likenesses of London’s most
institutional racism was in the United States: fashionable and up-to-the-minute celebrities were
pervasive enough to thwart the materialization of forever enshrined in this photo galaxy of the 1960s.8
black people in certain media outlets and, when “He’s fantastic,” waxed Donyale Luna about her
they were seen, influential enough to predetermine fashion shoot with David Bailey soon after arriv-
a particular image or emotional tenor. One of the ing in London. “I could almost rape him when he
entries in a “People Are Talking About” column photographs me,” she flippantly continued, “and I
in a 1965 issue of Vogue perhaps summed up this tell him so while we work. We discuss it.”9 Bailey’s
proscription against black visibility: “People are photograph of Luna on the March 1966 cover of
talking about anything to ease thinking about the British Vogue exuded far more modesty than this
two subjects on everyone’s mind: Viet Nam and ‘the outrageous admission of hers. Wearing a Chloe
Negro Revolution.’”6 dress, Mimi di N earrings, and fiercely eyeballing
It was around this same time that the idea of Bailey through manicured fingers that formed the
living and working abroad was planted in Donyale letter V (for Vogue), this flirtatious eye game was
Luna’s mind.7 The lively axis of fashion activities both Luna’s trademark and a clever retort to Bailey’s
between London, Paris, and Milan, as well as a repu- ex-girlfriend Jean Shrimpton and Richard Avedon’s
tation for being less corrupted by racial prejudice, famous “blinking” photograph of her on the cover
recommended Europe as the ideal environment of Harper’s Bazaar a year earlier. With Luna’s face
in which to work in fashion. Although a profes- partially hidden by her hand, subsequent com-
sional model, Luna had always aspired to become mentators have suggested that racial concealment
an actor and writer, and Europe now loomed as was British Vogue’s intent. But this theory collapses
the place where these aspirations could be realized upon a closer inspection of the original magazine’s
and where she might dismantle or retrofit the two cover and content, especially after surveying Bailey’s
identities—Negro and fashion model—which she felt numerous group photographs of models Moira
particularly constrained by in America. She left the Swan, Peggy Moffitt, and the noticeably browner
United States in December 1965, and almost imme- Donyale Luna, all camping it up in the latest Paris
diately upon arriving in England connected with fashions.10
Richard Avedon’s London counterpart, the famous Apart from visually “cutting” Richard Avedon,
and notorious fashion photographer David Bailey. David Bailey was exploring, via Donyale Luna,
If being photographed by Richard Avedon was the visual power of the depicted and isolated eye.
considered the pinnacle of a fashion model’s career Bailey, a longtime admirer of artist Pablo Picasso,
in America, then being shot in 1966 by British pho- drew inspiration from the artist’s portrayals of
tographer David Bailey would have been considered women and his placement of their eyes at each
a veritable “blast.” London’s reputation as Europe’s picture’s nerve center. For Picasso the eye was
youth capital was legion, and David Bailey was an acknowledgment of the renegade surrealist
Powell Nka • 19
photo shoot with Luna for twen, suggesting that thematic ingredients in common. Yet one can also
the Hamburg-based photographer and the African draw distinctions between Feininger’s ode to the
American model worked amicably together and, photographer and March’s fascination with the
somewhat like Luna and Bailey in British Vogue, subject/model and her artistic sightings through an
were artistic collaborators of sorts.17 imaginary instrument. That Luna both sees March
What confronts viewers in Donyale Luna with and her camera, and through a controlling, cyclops-
Earrings for twen are Luna’s striking facial features, like eye imagines a world beyond the photographer’s
her perfectly manicured and lens-mimicking hand, studio, is the message that, even under the pretenses
and the shiny hoop-and-ball-drop earrings. The of high fashion, permeates the image.19
combination of the straightforward design, dra- Donyale Luna’s imaginary monocle and her
matic lighting, a black-and-white film that when wide-eyed bemusement at what appears within her
processed yielded sooty blacks and subtle shades of viewfinder were emblematic of her subject agency
gray, and a salient subject all conspired to turn an and infused her image with a barely contained
otherwise conventional head shot into something satire. At a moment in history when mass media
magical. seemed powerful, almighty, and unfettered by either
Despite assertions of being in full control over law or morality, Luna’s sassy scrutiny of the world
their creations, many artists, and photographers beyond March’s darkened chamber, camped up by
in particular, are at the mercy of chance or outside her pursed lips and a clawing pinkie finger, carried
intervention. In 1977 Susan Sontag made what a signifying air akin to the irony-laden winks and
would have been considered a profane pronounce- tongue-in-cheek asides of Chitlin’ Circuit comedi-
ment on this subject in her book On Photography, ans and insolent teenagers.20 March’s photograph
saying that “photography has powers that no other lovingly captured Luna’s “Negro” features, which
image-system has ever enjoyed because, unlike when enhanced by cosmetics and embellished with
the earlier ones, it is not dependent on an image reflective, attention-grabbing, geometric jewelry,
maker.”18 Although Sontag quickly follows up this transformed her into a fierce Afro-pop goddess,
statement with a list of technological factors that more cyborglike than the victimized, sociological
determine visual outcomes, her provocation was entity that blacks had become in the media’s imagi-
already aimed and discharged. But to pursue this nation, circa 1960s. Anticipating by almost twenty
question of artistic prerogative, one could propose years the catchphrase “Who’s Zoomin’ Who?”
that the other authorial component is the photo- (the title of Aretha Franklin’s platinum record of
graphic subject. the summer of 1985), Luna’s gaze embodied that
And how does a human subject stand on refrain’s voiced one-upmanship, but not necessar-
par with a commandeering photographer / image ily to a cheating lothario.21 Luna’s parting shot is
maker? Through direct eye contact, conspicuous for an essentially racist fashion industry and, with
poses and hand gestures, and other peremptory the assistance of an insurgent female photographer
actions. Certain photographic genres like from Germany, symbolically turned the camera’s
portraiture, fashion photography, performing arts lens toward the image makers and taste makers,
documentation, and pornography consciously with a critical, all-consuming eye.
or unconsciously employ these tactics to enliven
the image and beguile viewers. Charlotte March’s Richard J. Powell is the John Spencer Bassett Profes-
portrait of Donyale Luna was certainly cognizant sor of Art and Art History at Duke University.
of how subject agency worked, especially through
subject-to-camera eye contact and, by association, Notes
the initiation of “The Look.” One is tempted to 1 For biographical information on Donyale Luna, see Richard
J. Powell, “Luna Obscura,” in Cutting a Figure: Fashioning Black
link March’s portrait of Luna to the well-known Portraiture (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 2008), 80–123.
portrait of photojournalist Dennis Stock by Life This article is partially derived from the author’s “Luna Obscura”
magazine photographer Andreas Feininger, chapter and from Richard J. Powell, “From Diaspora to Exile:
Black Women Artists in 1960s and 1970s Europe,” in The Migrant’s
since the two pictures have so many formal and Time: Rethinking Art History and Diaspora, ed. Saloni Mathur
Powell Nka • 21
DEFACING THE GAZE
AND REIMAGINING THE
BLACK BODY
CONTEMPORARY CARIBBEAN
WOMEN ARTISTS
I
n a now canonical 1990 essay, the Caribbean
Michelle Stephens philosopher Sylvia Wynter describes two central
features of colonial modernity that bear on the
topics of portraiture and the representation of the
black body in Western visual arts.1 In one regard,
the discourse of colonial modernity rests on a
Manichean struggle between the masculine subjec-
tivities of the colonizer and the colonized, Prospero
and Caliban, the European master and the native
slave on Shakespeare’s magical island in his play The
Tempest. This struggle is staged in a way that fore-
closes or excludes woman, as a discursive category,
from the framework of racialized subjectivity estab-
lished by colonial modernity. Where is Caliban’s
woman, Wynter asks, and why is she excluded?
What Wynter describes using the language of
colonial discourse, Lacanian philosopher Joan
Copjec describes using psychoanalytic theory. If,
as modern subjects, our unconscious is structured
like a language, with a set of rules, codes, and con-
ventions prescribing our desires and shaping us,
then this unconscious language is generated from
a social symbolic order that operates according to
a phallic logic or function. This phallic function is
defined not so much by the absence of woman as
by an inability to decipher her placement within
Oneika Russell, Olympia 7, from The Olympia Series, 2006. Digital print. Courtesy the artist
Stephens Nka • 25
terms as an inversion rather than a difference. The conscious knowing, vital forces insisting beyond
female genitals were simply “inside the body and emotion—that can serve to drive us toward move-
not outside it,” or as another medieval scholar put ment, toward thought” and toward multiple, mobile
it, “Turn outward the woman’s, and turn inward forms of relation.14 This is the phenomenological
. . . and fold double the man’s, and you will find the black body Frantz Fanon contrasted with epider-
same in both in every respect.”11 The body of the malization, constituted by his sense of the “slow
Middle Ages was a “grotesque body” completely at composition of my self as a body in the middle of a
odds with a more modern, post-Baroque concep- spatial and temporal world.”15 This is a black body
tion of “an entirely finished, completed, strictly that is more, experiences more, than the gaze can
limited body.”12 Colonial modernity is founded on see or describe in words, an embodied subjectiv-
this fundamental shift in European thinking from ity that knows itself instead through “residual
understanding the body in terms of anatomy to sensations and perceptions primarily of a tactile,
understanding it in terms of physiognomy. vestibular, kinesthetic, and visual character.”16 The
In the 1990s critical efforts to decolonize the black body of affect is also the “body without an
black body from Western regimes of representation image,” in that it works against the phallic gaze that
were still shaped by an older dichotomy between excludes woman and epidermalizes difference.17 It is
the body of nature and the body of culture. “At the this black body of affect, a fleshly body, that appears
end of every path we take,” O’Grady laments, “we in the works of contemporary women artists from
find a body that is always already colonized.”13 In the Caribbean.
our current moment, critical discourse has shifted
toward comparisons of a body of experience to a Un/dressing the Black Subject of Female Flesh
body of construction, both situated in a subjective If the portrait is the paradigmatic visual genre for
rather than objectified corporeal space. This raises representing the Western male subject—his mirror
the question of whether the once fetishized object image, his frontal image, his apprehension of him-
of a fleshy blackness could also arouse the desire to self as whole—the female nude offers a very differ-
touch (upon) aspects of the bodily self that the phal- ent kind of “sight” of the human body. Throughout
lic order struggles to represent and can never fulfill. European cultural history the flesh has often been
This is the body of affect, constituted by “visceral associated with the female, while the ability to
forces beneath, alongside, or generally other than transcend an image of the human subject as mere
Ebony G. Patterson, Untitled (Venus Inverts), 2005. Collagraph, 96 x 192 in. Courtesy the artist and Monique Meloche Gallery. © Ebony G. Patterson
Stephens Nka • 27
Ebony G. Patterson, Vulva II, 2006. Mixed-media collagraph, 108 x 60 in.
Courtesy the artist and Monique Meloche Gallery. © Ebony G. Patterson
Stephens Nka • 29
9 In Black Skin, White Masks (New York: Grove Weidenfeld, 1967),
111, Frantz Fanon names epidermalization—an inability to see beneath
the skin, beyond appearance—as the visual regime that lies at the heart
of racial classification.
10 Claudia Benthien, Skin: On the Cultural Border between Self and
World (New York: Columbia University Press, 2004), 38–39.
11 Vanita Seth, Europe’s Indians: Producing Racial Difference, 1500-
1900 (Durham, NC: Duke University Press, 2010), 183.
12 Benthien, Skin, 38.
13 O’Grady, “Olympia’s Maid,” includes a “Postscript,” originally pub-
lished in New Feminist Criticism: Art, Identity, Action, ed. Joanna Frueh,
Cassandra L. Langer, and Arlene Raven (New York: Icon, 1994), where
she describes her efforts to reclaim a more phenomenological theory of
the body that could escape the constructivist/essentialist dichotomy that
so shaped discourses on the black body in the 1990s.
14 Melissa Gregg and Gregory J. Seigworth, eds., The Affect Theory
Reader (Durham, NC: Duke University Press, 2012), 1.
15 Fanon, Black Skin, 111.
16 Ibid.
17 Brian Massumi, Parables for the Virtual: Movement, Affect,
Sensation (Post-Contemporary Interventions) (Durham, NC: Duke
University Press, 2002), 57.
18 Benthien, Skin, 17.
19 Ibid., 89.
20 Jacques Lacan, Écrits (New York: W. W. Norton & Company,
1999), 286.
21 hollybynoe.com/artwork/1125201_pedigree.html.
22 Fanon, Black Skin, 161.
23 Ibid., 165, 167, 177.
24 Ibid., 151–70.
25 For more discussion of Mapplethorpe’s images of the black male
body see Kobena Mercer, Welcome to the Jungle: New Positions in Black
Cultural Studies (New York: Routledge, 1994).
26 Patricia Kaersenhout, “Foreword,” in Invisible Men (The Hague:
Eindeloos, 2009).
27 Hortense Spillers, “Mama’s Baby, Papa’s Maybe: An American
Grammar Book,” Diacritics 17, no. 2 (1987): 67.
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Monica L. Miller
I
f blackness itself is a “sexual crime,” if “the col-
ored is thought to be more prone to sexual per-
version,” then how do we read Nigerian/British
artist Yinka Shonibare’s 2002 sculpture or “dress”
The inevitable logic with which we are confronted is (his word) Big Boy? The crimes, sexual and racial,
not so much that the black, the Negro, the colored is bespoken by this image are multiple; as Big Boy
always thought to be more prone to sexual perversion strides so elegantly into our visual space, he brings
but instead that blackness itself, that telltale color, is confusion and a beautifully designed ruffled train
always a sort of sexual crime regardless of how it is with him. This image is an announcement, a pos-
articulated. The presence of the black in any loca- ture that demands not only notice but acclaim, and
tion represents precisely the failure of the American maybe even an aggressive embrace. Though pres-
and European eugenicist projects, a failure that has ent here in an unknown historical or geographical
occurred because the black is not only threatening, location (he is at once African and Victorian, in a
but appealing, not only the monster that the police- museum space and perhaps striving to get off his
man must beat into submission, but also the beauty dais), he seems vigorous, in spite of any “eugenicist
without whom he cannot seem to live. projects” or even his lack of a head. This black “is
Robert Reid-Pharr, Once You Go Black not only threatening, but appealing . . . the beauty
without whom” any “policeman” or critic patrolling
Journal of Contemporary African Art • 38–39 • November 2016
32 • Nka DOI 10.1215/10757163-3641656 © 2016 by Nka Publications
Yinka Shonibare MBE, Big Boy, 2002. Wax-printed cotton
fabric, fiberglass, 215 x 170 x 140 cm. Plinth, 220 x 12 cm.
Courtesy the artist and Stephen Friedman Gallery, London.
© Yinka Shonibare MBE
Miller Nka • 33
and queerness that joins them, both monstrous and
beautiful, and necessarily so.
In my archive the first black dandy who was
famous, fabulous, and, therefore, criminal was
an eighteenth-century Londoner, Julius Soubise.
Soubise belonged to a select group of English
black slaves and servants called “luxury slaves” or
“darling blacks.” Among the first black dandies that
I have identified in an Anglo-American context,
these boys and men were, perhaps, the first group
of dandified slaves that were able to make fashion
their slave. In discussing these men, and the history
of black dandyism more generally, I have coined
the phrase crime of fashion to capture the dynamic
in which these men were embroiled and of which
they took advantage. Crimes of fashion cut both
ways. They are racial and sexual, dehumanizing,
and, potentially, a means by which the agency and
subjectivity of queer black subjects can be imagined
and produced. To be more specific, Soubise him-
self was at once the victim of a vogue as well as a
traitorous trendsetter himself. Born in Jamaica and
brought to England in 1764, he was the most vis-
ible and famous of the servants who, as early as the
1650s, had been used as the ultimate expression of
The Aesthetic Craze. Lithograph, 42.8 x 33.5 cm. Courtesy the William imperialist wealth by royalty, aristocracy, and, later,
Andrews Clark Memorial Library, University of California, Los Angeles.
© Currier & Ives, New York, 1882 upstart merchants. These young black servants were
dressed in the latest fashions and sometimes edu-
cated in the genteel arts. And they were made into
companions and confidants to their masters and
the borders of race, sexuality, and gender “cannot mistresses. As such, they expressly were not used
seem to live.” as labor and therefore particularly emblematized
Shonibare’s sculpture prompts a rhetorical, and slavery’s conspicuous consumption of black bodies.2
ultimately silly, question: what is more queer— A former slave, manumitted and “adopted” by
blackness or homosexuality? Inevitably, choosing the Duchess of Queensbury, Soubise was theatrical
which of the two is “the queerest of all” is pointless and spectacular, and he complicated perceptions
and even dishonest. As Robert Reid-Pharr reminds of black masculinity, sexuality, and Englishness.
us, blackness has always been perverse. The opposite Often clad in a “powdered wig, white silk breeches,
seems true as well—the queer has always been in very tight coat and vest, with enormous white
some ways raced or racialized. Yet I pose the ques- neck cloth, white silk stockings, diamond-buckled
tion because I have nonetheless been thinking about red-heeled shoes,” Soubise’s dress and accessories
it while assembling the black queer dandy archive in signaled his overweening interest in self and high-
my book Slaves to Fashion, an archive in which the lighted both his assimilation to Englishness and his
aesthete Oscar Wilde plays an intriguing part.1 In foreignness.3 As an effeminate xenophile, a fop is a
this essay I explore the question through the rela- traitor on a number of levels—to his class, gender,
tionship between Shonibare and Wilde by present- and country. When racialized as black, a fop like
ing a short history of the black dandy that suggests Soubise is even more outrageous, even while seem-
that pairing these two artists is, like the blackness ingly appealing.
Miller Nka • 35
Yinka Shonibare MBE, Diary of a Victorian Dandy: 03.00 hours, 1998. C-type print, 183 x 228.6 cm. Courtesy the artist and Stephen Friedman Gallery,
London. © Yinka Shonibare MBE
to education, unchecked social, cultural, and eco- limit the total force of his boundary crossings. The
nomic mobility? black dandy’s overweening and inappropriate sexu-
Although the early minstrel show presented the ality blackens him, just as his blackness (and fine
dandy in slightly different guises, it consistently dressing) makes his sexuality anomalous.
associated the figure with sexual threat and class cri- Thus, representations of Oscar Wilde as a black
tique. Despite the fact that blackface dandy’s sexual dandy signify in a number of arenas: he is black
threat is almost always figured as heterosexual, because he is socially outré and overweening, he
because of the way in which his racialization is so belongs to “aping culture,” he has class aspirations,
bound up in his sexuality and vice versa, the figure and he is Irish (and thus savage). All of these traits
has a quare effect. (This is not to mention that black- he shares with African Americans. His perception
face performance was often also drag performance, as black also signals that his gender identity and
as white men portrayed black women pursued by sexuality are, at best, out of order. For his American
blackface dandies). To say that the blackface dandy audiences, he was not quite English and yet too
himself is queer, as in same-sex loving, however, British; this queerness led to his being perceived as
would be anachronistic and would in some ways black. The black dandy, along with his association
Miller Nka • 37
the artist is after. Instead, he privileges a dandy’s
contemplation over his status as a provocateur or
pleasure-seeker. In shot after shot Dorian either con-
templates his own image or engages in what looks
like guarded conversation with others; particularly
telling, the image of Dorian in the park illustrates
his physical isolation from others and, perhaps, even
himself. Nowhere is the sexiness of The Diary of a
Victorian Dandy nor the Wildean story in evidence
in this series; instead, it is empty of any scenes of
charged assignations or homoerotic banter. As such,
Shonibare empties one of the English language’s
most prototypically “queer” texts of its homosexual
or homosocial content (or he encodes it).10 Black
and dandy, the outsider status of this figure—not
his sartorial fabulousness or seductive power—is
on display. If anything is emphasized in this series,
Yinka Shonibare MBE, Dorian Gray, 2001. One of eleven digital lambda it is the queerness of being black or dandy or both,
prints, 122 x 152.5 cm., unframed. Courtesy the artist and Stephen Friedman
Gallery, London © Yinka Shonibare MBE and the melancholy that accompanies this lonely
position.
If “the critic is he who can translate into another
manner or a new material his impression of beauti-
politics of the look and what decadence affords the ful things,” as Wilde states in his aphoristic preface
abject through the dandy figure. Deliberately shot to The Picture of Dorian Gray, then Shonibare’s
in the form of twelve film stills that correspond in transformations of the history of British imperial-
mood, but not always in content, to Wilde’s classic ism through African fabric and through Oscar Wilde
story (and also to a 1945 American film of Wilde’s reveal his critical faculty as acute and extremely
story), Dorian Gray, like The Diary of a Victorian attentive to the politics of the dandy’s queer crimes.11
Dandy, both celebrates and reviles the dandy figure. And if, as Wilde also says in the same preface, “the
In fact, Shonibare’s Dorian Gray seems less trium- nineteenth century’s dislike of realism [representa-
phant and even more cautionary about the subver- tion of the real] is the rage of Caliban seeing his
siveness and liberatory quality of an artist’s dandy own face in the glass,” then Shonibare as Caliban
masquerade. uses both the dandy’s “interrogative body” and his
Just as The Diary follows a black rake through own to probe the scene of his subjection in a way
his day, Dorian Gray follows a black dandy through that allows him to articulately curse at those who
his encounter with Wilde’s “New Hedonism.” The taught him this sartorial semiotic. So if the dandies
moments of Dorian’s tale that Shonibare chooses in Shonibare’s photographs are arrested within
to represent, and the ways in which he represents their frames and in their critique of the styling of
them, are curious, leading us to surmise that at blackness, while his fabric sculptures, though head-
stake in this Dorian Gray are not only the Wildean less, retain a vitality in their implied motion, then
themes concerning the moral compass of aestheti- where does that leave us? Given that, like Wilde,
cism or the ethical problem of psychological influ- Shonibare wants to “look at his practice in the area
ence, but also the threat and beauty of “black” as an of the poetic,” outside of moralizing and anything
identity, intertwined with the power and problem of that resembles what he calls “straight speech,” the
self-regard. dandy artist (Soubise, Wilde, Shonibare) remains a
Since we miss major moments from both the trickster, because dandies, whether as the vehicle or
novel and the film in Shonibare’s series, the drama the subject of critique, are never what they seem.12
of Wilde’s particular narrative clearly is not what A dandy is “unknowable, because he is always in
Notes
1 Initially presented at the Black Portraiture[s]: The Black Body in
the West conference in Paris, January 2013, this essay reworks some
of the arguments in my book Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and
the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity (Durham, NC: Duke University
Press, 2009).
2 For more on the “luxury slave” phenomenon, see especially
Peter Fryer, Staying Power: The History of Black People in Britain
(London: Pluto Press, 1970); Folarin Shyllon, Black People in Britain
1555–1833 (London: Oxford University Press, 1977); Edward Scobie,
Black Britannia: A History of Black in Britain (Chicago: Johnson,
1972); Gretchen Gerzina, Black London: Life Before Emancipation
(New Brunswick, NJ: Rutgers University Press, 2003).
3 The most comprehensive version of Soubise’s biography is
found in Scobie, Black Britannia and also Vincent Caretta, “Soubise,”
Oxford Dictionary of National Biography (Oxford: Oxford University
Press, 2004). This quotation is from Scobie, Black Britannia, 92.
4 Scobie omits this detail of Soubise’s life; Fryer and Shyllon
mention it briefly.
5 E. Patrick Johnson, “‘Quare Studies,’” in Black Queer Studies,
ed. E. Patrick Johnson and Mae G. Henderson (Durham, NC: Duke
University Press, 2006), 125.
6 Curtis Marez, “The Other Addict: Reflections on Colonialism
and Oscar Wilde’s Opium Smokescreen,” ELH 64, no. 1 (1997):
257–87.
7 For more on black dandies on stage and in popular culture
during the nineteenth century, see Eric Lott’s classic, Love and Theft:
Blackface Minstrelsy and the American Working Class (New York:
Oxford University Press, 1995), and Shane White and Graham White,
Stylin’: African American Expressive Culture from Its Beginnings to the
Zoot Suit (Ithaca, NY: Cornell University Press, 1998).
8 Jaap Guldemond and Gabrielle Mackert, “To Entertain and
Provoke: Western Influences in the Work of Yinka Shonibare,” in
Yinka Shonibare: Double Dutch (Rotterdam: Museum Boijmans Van
Beuningen Rotterdam / NAi Publishers, 2004), 41.
9 Olu Oguibe, “Double-Dutch and the Culture Game,” in Yinka
Shonibare: Be-Muse (exhibition catalogue) (Rome, 2001).
10 I am thankful to Caroline Levin, professor of English,
University of Wisconsin, Madison, for this insight.
11 Oscar Wilde, “The Picture of Dorian Gray,” in The Complete
Works of Oscar Wilde (New York: Harper and Row, 1989).
12 Okwui Enwezor, “Of Hedonism, Masquerade, Carnivalesque,
and Power: The Art of Yinka Shonibare,” in Looking Both Ways: Art
of the Contemporary African Diaspora (exhibition catalogue), ed.
Laurie Ann Farrell (New York: Museum for African Art, 2003), 166.
13 In the interview with Enwezor cited above Shonibare says, in
the form of Wildean aphorism, “My work is read in contradictory
ways, sometimes by the same critics, and I enjoy that. I think the
value of resolving something is overstated. I don’t necessarily think
that resolution is what a poet should be seeking.” Enwezor, “Of
Hedonism, Masquerade, Carnivalesque, and Power,” 177.
Miller Nka • 39
POSING THE
BLACK PAINTER
KERRY JAMES MARSHALL’S
PORTRAITS OF ARTISTS’ SELF-PORTRAITS
I
n the period 2007–10 Kerry James Marshall com-
Peter Erickson pleted a cluster of portraits of painters in a studio
setting.1 Their extraordinary dramatic range and
power are designed “to reclaim that image of black-
ness so that it wasn’t negatively valued, but achieved
an undeniable majesty.”2 We see a black artist figure
wielding the brush, often in front of a canvas on
which the depiction of his or her self-portrait is in
process but unfinished. Marshall shows us the act
of self-portraiture, but he does not reveal his self.
He remains outside the frame, the invisible prime
mover outside our field of vision.
Erickson Nka • 41
As the idiomatic language of the title suggests, negation. By contrast, the white version suggests the
Shadow of His Former Self turns on the racially neg- affirmation of white privilege as an unclassified, and
ative connotation of the operative word “shadow” therefore unnoticeable, racial category, as though
embodied in the reductive stereotype of the “toothy whiteness is above race and therefore racially invis-
grin.”5 The result is a jokey, mocking image that ible and immune to accountability. The drama of
Marshall draws from a horror film aptly entitled Marshall’s visual format applies a pressure that
Mr. Sardonicus: “In one scene, a skeleton face with a exposes this white position and thereby performs
toothy grin is revealed in a coffin.”6 It is no surprise a cathartic analysis of whiteness that opens up new
that Marshall refrains from using the honorific term possibilities for black representation.
“self-portrait” in the actual title. The word “former” Overall, the value of the Invisible Men paintings
insists that this “self ” is a thing of the past that he is is their function as an exorcism and a critical clari-
leaving behind in order to move on. fication of racial invisibilities. The exploration of
Marshall makes other references to self- both black and white invisibility clears away enough
portraiture, but these generic allusions tend to be racist debris for Marshall to shift the emphasis to
low-profile and teasing. Self-Portrait of the Artist as the monumental centrality of highly visible black
a Super Model (1994) endows the male artist with figures who no longer disappear into a background
a blond wig that seems to make fun of his freedom that absorbs them. This new direction creates a very
to use art to engage in unrestricted role playing but different experience from the invisible man motif.
feels inconsequential without deeper elaboration. Marshall’s figures do not end up confined in a cellar
Marshall reveals that he is present as a child with but burst forth and stand out; nor does Marshall
his brother and sister in Watts 1963 (1995), but restrict himself to “the lower frequencies.”9
however important that is from a documentary Marshall describes the tension built into the aes-
standpoint, its internal structural significance is thetic impact of his rendering of blackness:
largely incidental. In Souvenir III (1998), Marshall’s
presence is registered in a tiny oval mirror but kept The problem was how to bring that figure close to
in the background so that the effect is reticent.7 being a stereotypical representation without col-
These reflexive gestures remain small gestures. lapsing completely into stereotype. I was playing at
Marshall holds back from making a full-fledged the boundary between a completely flattened-out
entry into the generic arena of intensive self- stereotype, a cartoon, and a fully resonant, compli-
portraiture. This very refusal is what eventually cated, authentic representation—a black archetype,
gives his portraits of black artists their mysterious which is a very different thing. The archetype allows
quality. Marshall raises the expectations that we for degrees of complexity that the stereotype always
bring to self-portraits but, having prompted us, does minimizes or undermines.10
not quite fulfill them. We are hence caught between
genres, unsure of our bearings and unclear how to This is a very fine line indeed, but the line is
react to the painted figure or where we stand with drawn. The new mode’s stress on hypervisualiza-
respect to Marshall himself. Out of the uncertainties tion makes a step toward the complexity that will be
generated by the wide gap between the figure of the more fully explored in the portraits of artist figures.
painter whom Marshall paints and Marshall the The black visibility achieved in large-scale figure
painter come the multiple perspectives from which paintings has a direct continuity with the specific
we later view the artist figure in the studio paintings. format of painters in studio settings because the
Two paintings entitled Two Invisible Men Naked main strand of black figuration is carried over
(1985) and Two Invisible Men (1985), however, have into the generic realm of self-portraiture. Also, in
a special significance because their split-screen common with other black characters, the artists
format separates white and black into discrete halves have an undeniable presence accompanied by an
that display different forms of invisibility.8 The black element of hesitation or tentative quality. In particu-
version presents a darkness that erases; even the lar, the portraits of artists painting portraits com-
black penis stereotypically on view confirms the municate a paradoxical combination of visibility
Erickson Nka • 43
initial portrait of an artist has raised the stakes as becomes more complicated, because it includes
high as possible. a canvas within the canvas and hence expands
to encompass three images of the artist: the
Out of One Many double figure of the painter and her image inside
A general statement by Kerry James Marshall about the painting, plus Marshall as the unseen third
art making ten years earlier provides a point of painter outside the frame. The women pose with
entry into the 2008 Untitled painting of the black poised brush in front of their self-portraits in
man with the brush. Marshall’s artistic goal is to progress, while Marshall himself is not directly
achieve “complete control of how much tension
you are putting on the spring. You should be able
to tweak it, even a millimeter, to get it fine-tuned.”13
In Marshall’s portrait of the black painter, the aes-
thetic spring is so tightly coiled that we can feel the
tension. Aided by the painting’s huge, life-size scale
and close-up impact, the man’s assertion of artistic
power verges on confrontational, the strength held
in check but also held in reserve. The torque of the
painter’s shoulders suggests movement. The down-
ward slant of the right shoulder propels the large,
tipped-up palette into the foreground, acting like a
shield that protects the artist.14 The left arm thrusts
the brush forward. This challenge is backed up by
the severity of the face with eyes directed outward
toward the viewer and with mouth firmly set.
Enveloped by the helmet-like Afro, the squared-off
forehead looks masklike.
This entire ensemble of visual elements is in
the service of one conspicuous sight: the tip of the
brush in the spot of black paint prominently placed
on the palette. Given the emphasis on black paint Untitled, 2008. Acrylic on PVC panel, 72 3/4 x 61 1/4 x 4 in. Courtesy the
in Marshall’s own practice, there can be no doubt artist and Jack Shainman Gallery, New York. © Kerry James Marshall
about his support of, and alliance with, the means
by which the painted figure so strongly and beauti- engaged in self-portraiture. Any symmetrical
fully asserts his power. The circle of black paint in alignment of the three is therefore disrupted at
the center pushes the muted white circle off to the the outset. The interior relationship between the
side. The tiny details of the artist’s three exposed fin- woman painter and the self-image, which judg-
gernails and the sclera of his eyes show how dimin- ing from the disproportionate blank space on the
ished whiteness becomes against the blackness of canvas she has only just begun to paint, is staged
his hands and face. Large and colorful as the palette in the context of an overall struggle between areas
occupying the foreground is, the dark background of white and black.
above dominates, with its expanse occupying more In Untitled (2009), we are faced with fracture.
than half of the area and reaching out to three of the The head of the impeccably dressed artist rests
four corners of the picture frame. Yet the portrait is atop the elaborate curling shape of the wide collar
held in a state of suspension that prevents us from encircling her neck. The seated position places her
seeing what happens next. There is no painting, only face near the center, while the second face above is
the painter and his implements. displaced to the upper right corner, which her long
With the transition to the 2009 portraits green brush will have to angle up to reach. The only
of black women painters, the studio scenario bits of shining light on the artist’s side are the silver
Erickson Nka • 45
Taken together, the two L-shaped bars occupy painting that aspires to be great art and consequently
almost one-third of the painting’s vertical space and insist on the necessity of learning techniques
approximately one-quarter of the horizontal zone grounded in deep knowledge and reflection.
at the bottom. These darker sectors press against Marshall comments: “I started collecting paint
the white area, with the further encroachment of by number because I’m interested in knowledge
the sliver of black wedged along the left edge of systems and techniques of representation. Paint by
the canvas. We are left with the feeling that, if the number is a gateway system that goes some way
black woman’s image could only be reproduced on toward developing confidence in one’s ability to
the canvas behind her, blackness would prevail on produce a passable image. It can be like following
Marshall’s big-picture canvas. patterns at Arthur Murray style dance schools, or
Yet Marshall has introduced an additional dif- following chord charts learning to a play a musical
ficulty in the paint-by-numbers organization of the instrument.”15 The qualified descriptors “some
black woman’s canvas that raises the question of way toward” (not all the way) and “passable” (not
whether she is simply following and filling in some- outstanding) indicate the possibility that Marshall
body else’s script. Marshall upsets this implication portrays artists who have yet to develop fully
by scrambling, and thus mocking, the numbering mature confidence. This would help to account
system. The highest number is 115, but nowhere for the combination of stiffness and uneasiness
near all the numbers in the sequence starting from 1 conveyed by the artists’ postures. In his role as the
are represented; the lack of sequential order begins upholder of standards, Marshall seems at times to
to suggest that there is something random about challenge and even to compete with his fictional
the color code. Moreover, the color red is arbitrarily artists. For instance, he outdoes them by bestowing
assigned to more than one number; we see red bits an impeccable outfit on them that they as relative
in the incompletely filled-in spaces for numbers 89 novices may or may not yet be able to replicate, in
and 96, representing the woman’s hair, and for num- turn, on their canvases.
bers 1 and 4 further to the left. The moment of the pose indicates a mood of
The ultimate subversion is the lack of a match pause—even hesitation and stasis—that expresses
between her actual black hair and the explosive the unfinished, suspended state of what we see on the
red and orange accents in the hair as represented canvas within the canvas. Overall there is a strong
in her painting. These anomalies demonstrate that sense of incompleteness, which is open-ended in
the work unfolding is not completely prescribed several possible directions. Marshall writes: “In
in advance by the prefabricated specifications of the artist paintings the painter paints the painting
a prior hand. Such directions can be violated and we see, but disregards the color scheme for a more
defied in the name of creative freedom. Of course arbitrary use of color. They are free to follow or
we are still left with the question of whose agency abandon the system at will.”16 But questions remain.
activated this opening for free expression, but per- How, in the end, will the artists use this freedom?
haps we may imagine that Kerry James Marshall’s Are their artistic gestures substantial or minor
generous artistic sympathy extends to the woman breakouts contained within a grid? In terms of what
painter so that he and she can be seen as united in we can see, the freedom is exercised in relation and
this commitment. reaction to the grid and, therefore, limited. The
Marshall’s relationship to the painters he has opportunity for free expression in the open field of
created remains double-edged, almost as though he a blank canvas is not presented.
is addressing two audiences. Painting-by-numbers We cannot know the outcomes of these half-
simultaneously expresses sarcastic anger at completed self-portraits. The moment of pause is
insufficient opportunity for, and racist obstacles to, effectively permanent. We are caught in a freeze-
black painters as well as humility in the unwavering frame situation that prevents us from fast forwarding
dedication to rigorous training as the absolute to the end result. It is the unresolved quality
precondition to artistic attainment. stemming from this stop-motion circumstance
Marshall’s portraits suggest the sheer difficulty of that gives Marshall’s portraits of artists their
extraordinary power. Ultimately, the paintings do and thus are illuminated for all to see. Down to the
not give immediate, complete fulfillment. Instead, noticeable fold over his crotch, the man is wide
they require us as viewers to wait with patience and open and exposed.
with confidence. His vulnerability is given visual form in the sharp
The transition to Untitled (Painter), the 2010 mismatch and clash between his own skin pigment
portrait of an artist, shown on page 41, is abrupt and the overwhelming cast of the various pinkish-
for two immediate reasons. First, the man is posed orange color tones that envelop his image in the
shorn of the implements and weapons of his work: adjacent self-portrait. The numbered units of the
the now familiar palette is missing, and there flesh in his right hand and his face are unfinished,
are no brushes to wield. The only evidence of his but even if consistent with the man’s blackness when
occupation is the pinkish paint stains on the pant completed, these aspects will be flooded, drowned,
legs of his upper thighs. Second, although his and washed out. In the interim, the man’s head in his
face bears a concentrated expression, his physical painting already looks skull-like. His own head in
posture is slouched and relaxed. Despite the desire Marshall’s painting looks terrifyingly unperturbed
for concealment hinted by his camouflaged shirt, and calm rather than depleted or anguished.
its various shades of green have been transposed to Yet if we follow the color trajectory from the
the canvas where they populate the whole left side painter’s shirt in a different direction, it leads to
Erickson Nka • 47
the smaller painting above the man’s head to the figure rather than as the figure. Marshall speaks
opposite corner on the left. Here we can just barely with compelling eloquence about his urgent desire
discern a dark background with an obscure green to populate his art and, by extension, museums with
pattern of colors lifted from the man’s shirt. This black figures. He is equally convincing about his
painting represents an alternate route, another desire to make black figures whose selves are visibly
possibility, to which at the moment the man seems complex rather than uncritically sentimental. For
tragically oblivious. Marshall, posing black painters means registering
I return to Kerry James Marshall’s reserve intrin- the complexities they pose.
sic to his position as the third artist standing back
and apart from the artist pair bracketed within his Opening Up the Studio
painting—that is, the double image of the artist Four years after seemingly completing the series
whose brush is creating the artist on the canvas focusing on black artists working in a studio setting,
within the canvas. The formulation in the title of Kerry James Marshall unexpectedly created a huge,
Marshall’s 2010 lecture, “The Artist in the Studio,” seven-by-twelve-foot painting, Untitled (Studio)
thus operates at two levels that cannot be fused: (2014).19 Compared to the relatively self-enclosed,
what’s happening in the scene inside Marshall’s confined, and even slightly claustrophobic space
painting and what happens in Marshall’s own studio. of the earlier studio paintings, the sheer size of the
This dual structure enables Marshall to balance, or new work immediately signals openness through its
juggle, emotional engagement and tempered invest- generous spaciousness. It is as though the previous
ment in responding to his artist figures. By posing constraints in the studio series have suddenly been
the black artist, but not himself, in the painting, he removed.
gains a critical filter that creates portraiture capable In a dramatic shift, the studio bursts open in
of observing and assessing itself. such brightness that the space lights up by sources
In his lecture Marshall reads a passage by Daniel far more extensive than the single Lowel Tota flood
Arasse on Vermeer’s interiors that he clearly finds light on the far right edge, focused on the sitter
congenial and significant: “The ‘real world’ of posing for her portrait. This opening up is amplified
Vermeer’s pictures is the world the pictures them- by the fantastic expanses of brilliant color that flow
selves inhabit, a world of painting; and painting was, around and across, filling Marshall’s canvas. The two
for him, an exact and specific activity. In refusing spans of bright red in the backdrop behind the sitter
to be ruled by social or commercial aspirations, and in its replication on the canvas of the portrait in
Vermeer was able to use his paintings as a workplace, progress flare and are linked by the flashy red cup
his laboratory for constant pictorial research.”17 This on the painter’s worktable in the foreground. Also
passage resonates with Marshall’s chosen format of abundant and striking are yellows, blues, blacks,
the specialized “interior” of the studio. His scenario whites, and orangey touches, not to mention the
allows us to understand Marshall’s artists’ self- exuberant green of the artist’s shoes. The viewer’s
portraits as “his laboratory for constant pictorial dazzled eyes keep jumping but are also drawn to
research.” In Marshall’s own words at the outset of the tiny stack of colored swatches pinned to the leg
his lecture, the idea of a laboratory means that the of the table upfront where we can’t miss them. The
artist’s studio should be conceived as a site “where swatches, reinforced by the array of unicolored cups,
intellectual activity takes place.”18 make clear that Marshall’s color spectrum here is a
The drama enacted in Marshall’s paintings of planned, not a random, agenda.
artist figures is conducive to the thinking that he The open space inside the studio continues
wants to do. Because this artistic self-consciousness outside because we see the blue sky of daylight
is not synonymous with literal self-portraiture, through the window in the back. Further, the
Marshall’s vantage point has a built-in ruminative exterior setting is reminiscent of the view from
backlooping that comes from working in the space Kerry James Marshall’s own studio. The tall building
between him and the on-canvas artist figure, and with glass windows and the green foliage of the
hence the self works independently through the tree are recognizable approximations of the view
Untitled (Studio), 2014. Acrylic on PVC panel, 83 1/2 x 118 7/8 in., 84 1/8 x 119 1/2 x 3 1/8 in., framed.
Courtesy the artist and David Zwirner Gallery, London. © Kerry James Marshall
Erickson Nka • 49
portraiture practice in order to create and preserve a in the overall circular motion of the painting’s
beautiful image, akin to a beauty parlor, as suggested population, the naked black man stands out and
by the placement of the artist’s right-hand fingers stands apart. His proximity to the artistic center
spread apart and virtually massaging the sitter’s hair. is felt in the linking effect of the canvas’s slight
Two items—the handbag under the sitter’s chair, overlap that blocks our view of the man’s akimbo
along with the offering of cake and tea on the corner right arm. The readiness of his posture signals that
of the table nearest to the sitter—hint at a high-end he is drawn in, as though the canvas might be his
business. Close to the picture’s dead center, a skull to claim. Whether he approaches as subject, painter,
displays a bulging eyeball that reminds us of the observer, or critic, we don’t yet know for sure.
importance of visual memory and thus serves as a Marshall’s intervention gestures beyond the
memento mori symbol that advertises the value of attractive glamour of the scene toward deeper levels
one’s portrait as a legacy passed down to the next of what we can ultimately know and for which
generation. In this context, we could think of the the black body—instead of the unopened, green-
man behind the red screen as a patron who has covered book on the table underneath the skull—is
finished his appointment and is now putting on his the emblem. Kerry James Marshall shows the figure
jacket and preparing to leave. Meanwhile, the naked of a black man participating in the ultimate work in
man could be seen as eagerly awaiting his turn. progress: the increasing expansion and development
Yet the one character who does not convinc- of an art capable of sustaining black life.
ingly fit this scenario is the naked man. Kerry
James Marshall entices us to provide a narrative Peter Erickson is a visiting resident scholar at North-
construction that would allow us explain the situa- western University’s Alice Kaplan Institute for the
tion as ordinary characters in a recognizable scene. Humanities.
However, the assumption of an ordinary scene does
not account for the painting’s energy concentrated Notes
in the naked man. The all-too-neat term “nude,” 1 The list includes seven paintings as follows: Scipio Moorhead,
Portrait of Himself, 1776 (2007) in a private collection in Chicago;
superficially celebrated by the art historian Kenneth three untitled portraits from 2008 in Marshall’s Black Romantic
Clark, seems inadequate to describe the striking exhibition (items 9–11) at Jack Shainman Gallery, the largest of
presence and distinctive resonance in the stance and which is now in the collection of the Harvard Art Museums; two
portraits of black women painters from 2009—the first, Untitled
potential role of this male figure.21 While the other (Painter), in the collection of the Museum of Contemporary Art
characters may be perceived as ordinary, the black in Chicago, and the second, Untitled, shown in Embodied: Black
man, to the contrary, remains strange, and it is the Identities in American Art from the Yale University Art Gallery
(New Haven, CT: Yale University Art Gallery, 2010), 24–26; and,
strangeness that gives him his power. The seeming most recently, Untitled (Painter) (2010) in Kerry James Marshall,
remoteness of the man in the background is nulli- curated by Kathleen S. Bartels and Jeff Wall (Vancouver: Vancouver
fied because of his visual connection with the easel Art Gallery, 2010), 9. Two related precursor works, exhibited in
Production Site: The Artist’s Studio Inside-Out (Chicago: Museum
in the strong left side of the painting. This relation
of Contemporary Art, 2010), are Marshall’s photograph Black
to the easel projects him forward, making him a Artist (Studio View), dated 2002, and his painting 7am Sunday
prominent figure. Morning the following year. As described by curator Dominic
Through this figure, Marshall raises questions Molon: “Shot using ‘black light,’ which gives everything in a space
a neon-bluish hue while starkly offsetting anything white,” [Black
that intentionally remain unanswerable. At the Artist (Studio View)] “depicts Marshall in the studio space studying
beginning of his conversation with Angela Choon, his painting 7am Sunday Morning (2003)—itself a studio-centered
Marshall presents his vision of a workplace: “The image, albeit one capturing the immediate environs of the studio’s
neighborhood” (22). It is as though these antecedent examinations
artist’s studio was a laboratory in which you did of the interior and exterior of his own studio prepare the way for
experiments and tried to discover the principles Marshall’s subsequent portraits of artist figures in their imagined
governing the way things work.”22 Our role as studio settings.
2 Kerry James Marshall (New York: Harry N. Abrams, 2000),
viewers in the experimental context of Untitled 117.
(Studio) becomes not to solve a puzzle but rather to 3 “An Argument for Something Else: Dieter Roelstraete in
enter into, and live with, an ongoing mystery. Conversation with Kerry James Marshall, Chicago 2012,” in Kerry
James Marshall: Painting and Other Stuff, ed. Nav Haq (Antwerp:
For all the busy, crowded activity subsumed Ludion, 2013), 11–33; quotation from page 22.
Erickson Nka • 51
AU NÈGRE
JOYEUX
EVERYDAY ANTIBLACKNESS
GUISED AS PUBLIC ART
Trica Keaton
P
roximately on display at Place de la
Contrescarpe in the 5th arrondissement of
Paris—an area of high tourism commingled
with local life—is a rather large and offensive sign
that reads “Au Nègre Joyeux.” This entity has become
so integrated into the flow of daily life that passersby
seem to pay it scant attention, despite its arresting
title-board, translated as the “Happy N-word.” Yet,
for an array of people this over 250-year-old relic is
not simply a vestige of France’s cultural patrimony;
rather, it is a vivid illustration of antiblackness
in the everyday, one experienced as a form of
microviolence by those whom it assails in a French
Republic supposedly blind to color and race.1
According to precious few sources about the life
of the sign, which are at times contradictory, it is
all that remains of “one of the first establishments
that allowed Parisians to taste the exotic flavor of
chocolate,” a delicacy produced, however, through
slave labor, even today.2 Founded in 1748, Au Nègre
Joyeux is officially documented as the first chocolate
confectionary in Paris, according to Paris City Hall
(la Mairie de Paris). In 1988, a co-owners association
of the building on which the sign hangs gifted it to
the city, thereby relinquishing all responsibility for
it and its upkeep, including public reaction.3 The
Journal of Contemporary African Art • 38–39 • November 2016
52 • Nka DOI 10.1215/10757163-3641678 © 2016 by Nka Publications
Au Nègre Joyeux, Rue Mouffetard, Paris, 2010. Courtesy Samba Doucouré. Photo: Michelle Young
Keaton Nka • 53
Close-up of image on building. Courtesy Samba Doucouré. Photo: Michelle Young
city restored the sign around that period and later in his insightful book, Critique de la Raison Nègre,
encased it in protective glass, a prescient move in a meditation on the Western invention of race
light of responses to it, albeit recently, a point to through racism, theorist Achille Mbembe argues
which I’ll return. that the very notion of “le nègre,” someone racialized
In this context it is also worth noting that by the as black, results from European imperial fantasies,
nineteenth century, affirms anthropologist Susan discourses, and discursive practices that have both
Terrio, “the word chocolat signified a black man” in fashioned and written out of history persons whom
French argot, and “French chocolate manufacturers the West crafted as subhuman.5 Even as Négritude
sold their products using images of blacks often thinkers sought to reverse the stigma attached to
depicted as naïve and childlike inferiors.”4 Further, the term, in this context “nègre” is a denigrating
Keaton Nka • 55
large in France. However, what makes the entire show. This particular form of violence—not always
sign so racially reprehensible in a race-blind French recognized as such—is insidious because it occurs
Republic, about which I have written elsewhere, is as one is attempting to go about one’s daily activi-
not entirely the painting, irrespective of its inter- ties such as walking down the street or going to
pretation.10 Rather, it is the fresco with its large title the supermarket. It is precisely over such a site of
board that both dwarfs the painting and heralds everyday life that the sign timelessly hangs, while
what it ultimately constructs: once more, an anti- the market itself and its ownership has changed
black representation. Consider the wide-tooth grin hands several times in the last twenty years. What
of the black male figure that recalls the footnote on additionally renders Au Nègre Joyeux pernicious
“the grin” in Frantz Fanon’s Black Skin, White Masks: is the extent to which it has become naturalized
while sustaining racial boundaries and racialized
We like to depict the black man grinning at us with representations that largely go unchallenged in the
all his teeth. And his grin—such as we see it—such as everyday. There is a visible crack in the lower right
we create it—always signifies a gift . . . an endless gift corner, where something thrown at it hit its mark,
stretching along posters, movie screens and product but at the writing of this article, I have no infor-
labels . . . playing the fool . . . service always with a mation to explain whether this blemish is due to
smile.11 negative sentiment directed at the piece or someone
perhaps blowing off steam.
Or, as anthropologist Geoffrey Gorer states in In 2011, a measure of ambiguity about the pub-
the same footnote: “Nevertheless the whites demand lic’s sentiment vanished once the grassroots anti-
that the blacks be smiling, attentive and friendly racism association, La Brigade Anti-Negrophobie,
in all their relationships with them” in order to organized a three-week silent protest in front of the
demonstrate ultimately that they are not a threat. above-mentioned supermarket, in all likelihood
Product trademarks such as the 1930s Banania the only formal and documented protest against
logo vividly illustrate the proverbial “grinning black the sign in its history.14 Members of the brigade
man” in the French context, indeed one emblematic have themselves been subjected to another form of
of antiblack racialization in French advertising. As everyday racism in France, racial profiling by law
historian Dana Hale writes, “The Banania soldier’s enforcement, which on three separate occasions
grin remains one of the most recognized and popu- resulted in their ironic and perverse expulsion and
lar trademarks in France,” one that reduces African exclusion from the commemoration ceremony for
colonial conscripts to a “stereotype of the bon noir the abolition of slavery on May 10, 2011, 2013, and
or bon nègre—a harmless, infantile black figure who 2014. Clips of these events posted on YouTube and
was devoid of power despite his military role.”12 Dailymotion quickly went viral, and literally for
While less ubiquitous today, Banania figures are still the world to witness they show undeniable acts of
visible in public space and are defended by propo- racial profiling, excessive force, and police brutal-
nents of it and similar imagery, who see it rather as ity. In 2011, French undercover officers appeared in
nostalgic, innocuous memorabilia and certainly not droves, seemingly from nowhere, to block the entry
antiblack. of these mostly, but not exclusively, black bodies
By everyday antiblackness, I draw upon soci- attired in black T-shirts that boldly proclaimed
ologist Philomena Essed’s research and theories their group’s name.15 Though they had invitations,
of everyday racism in the Netherlands and United a police phalanx physically barred the brigade’s
States to conceptualize the cumulative micro- members and then turned on them, muscling them
aggressions integrated in the routine or flow of to the ground and eventually dragging them away,
everyday French life that results from systemic as they defended themselves toe-to-toe. Oddly, their
racism.13 These repetitive acts or moments of injury T-shirts seemed to trigger this response at an invita-
and insult, experienced directly and vicariously, tion-only event that did not specify a dress code. The
devalue, stigmatize, and harm people racialized as adage of history repeating itself as both tragedy and
somehow inferior in a society, as a wealth of studies farce proved true at the commemoration ceremony
Keaton Nka • 57
While this sign is not the only one of its kind Historiallinen Seura, 1984), 69. Also see Cohen, The French
Encounter with Africans, 111, and Tyler Stovall, Transnational France:
in Paris or France, let alone the numerous street The Modern History of a Universal Nation (Boulder, CO: Westview,
names documented by various associations that 2015).
honor slaveholders or colonial figures, I personally 10 Trica Danielle Keaton, “The Politics of Race-Blindness: (Anti)
Blackness and Category-Blindness in Contemporary France,” Du
do not believe that hanging a commemorative
Bois Review: Social Science Research on Race 7, no. 1 (2010): 103–31
plaque near Au Nègre Joyeux at this juncture makes and Keaton, “Racial Profiling and the ‘French Exception,’” French
it more palatable or consciousness raising. Such is Cultural Studies 24, no. 2 (2013): 231–242.
particularly the case for people and their children 11 Frantz Fanon, Black Skin, White Masks (1952; repr. New York:
Grove, 2008), 32.
who are assailed by such racialized imagery on 12 Dana S. Hale, Races on Display: French Representations of
a regular basis and who experience it, again, as Colonized Peoples, 1886–1940 (Bloomington: Indiana University
antiblack. The damage has been done, but not Press, 2008), Kindle location 1291, 1284. Also see Leora Auslander
and Thomas C. Holt, “Sambo in Paris: Race and Racism in the
irreparably for future generations. There is a perfect Iconography of the Everyday,” in The Color of Liberty: Histories of
space for this sign, the Carnavalet Museum, which Race in France, ed. S. Peabody and T. Stovall (Durham, NC: Duke
is devoted to the history of Paris and where a room University Press, 2003), and Dana Hale’s article in the same volume,
“French Images of Race on Product Trademarks during the Third
already houses similarly represented artifacts, Republic,” 131–46.
including a sign that dates from the nineteenth 13 The pioneering studies include Philomena Essed, Everyday
century entitled “A la tête noire,” an advertisement Racism: Reports from Women of Two Cultures (Claremont, CA:
Hunter House, 1990), and Essed, Understanding Everyday Racism:
for a furniture merchant. An Interdisciplinary Theory (London: Sage, 1990).
14 Brigade Anti-Negrophobie, fr-fr.facebook.com/BrigadeAnti
Trica Keaton is an associate professor in African and NegrophobiePageOfficielle (accessed May 19, 2014).
15 “The Anti-Negrophobia Brigade Banned from the French
African American studies at Dartmouth College. Commemoration for the Abolition of Slavery,” YouTube video, 9:33,
accessed May 19, 2014, www.youtube.com/watch?v=1IcS-iwuT5c.
Notes 16 “10 Mai 2014 . . . L’envers du décor de la commémoration de
1 As I have written elsewhere, discourses of color and la dite abolition de l’esclavage,” YouTube video, 14.47, accessed May
race-blindness are intrinsic to the potent ideology of French 20, 2014, www.youtube.com/watch?v=KV1dqRJLh8k&feature=
republicanism, which camouflages the lived experience of social youtube_gdata_player. Also see the illuminating film by Nathalie
race in French society. For the broader European context, see, for Etoke on these events entitled Afro-Diasporic French Identities,
instance, Fatima El-Tayeb, European Others: Queering Ethnicity YouTube video, 2:21, accessed July 7, 2015, www.youtube.com
in Postnational Europe (Minneapolis: University of Minnesota /watch?v=bQcGNjGywSI.
Press, 2011), and Dienke Hondius, Blackness in Western Europe: 17 Scott A. Akalis, Mahzarin Banaji, and Stephen M Kosslyn,
Racial Patterns of Paternalism and Exclusion (New Brunswick, NJ: “Crime Alert!: How Thinking about a Single Suspect Automatically
Transaction, 2014). Shifts Stereotypes toward an Entire Group,” DuBois Review: Social
2 “Don de l’enseigne ‘Au nègre joyeux,’ no. 14 rue Mouffetard á Science Essays and Research on Race 5 (2008): 227; Andrew Scott
la ville de Paris,” Paris Village, no. 1 (January 2003): 130, a popular, Baron and Mahzarin R. Banaji, “The Development of Implicit
nonscholary source. Attitudes Evidence of Race Evaluations from Ages 6 and 10 and
3 This information derives from an email exchange dated July Adulthood,” Journal of Psychological Science 17, no 1 (2006): 53–58;
1, 2014, with an official from Paris City Hall (la Mairie de Paris) and Project Implicit, implicit.harvard.edu/implicit/ (accessed July 7,
specifically about the sign. Paris Village dates the sign from 1738: see 2015).
“Don de l’enseigne ‘Au nègre joyeux,’” 130. 18 See “L’invention du sauvage,” www.quaibranly.fr/fr
4 Susan J. Terrio, Crafting the Culture and History of French /programmation/expositions/expositions-passees/exhibitions.
Chocolate (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2000), 248, 249. html (accessed May 20, 2014). See also Moïse Udino, Corps noirs,
5 See also Stuart Hall, “The West and the Rest: Discourse and têtes républicaines: Le paradox antillais (Paris: Présence Africaine,
Power,” in Modernity: An Introduction to Modern Societies, ed. Stuart 2011), and Lynne E. Palermo, “Identity under Construction:
Hall et al. (1996; repr. Malden, MA: Blackwell, 2007), 184–228. Representing the Colonies at the Paris Exposition Universelle of
6 Robert Sivard, “Painters Luck,” Time, April 18, 1955, 75. 1889,” in Peabody and Stovall, The Color of Liberty. Also see Pascal
7 “Don de l’enseigne ‘Au nègre joyeux,’” 130. Blanchard et al., La France noire: Trois siècles de présences des afriques,
8 See for instance William Cohen, The French Encounter with des caraïbes, de l’océan indien et d’Océanie (Paris: Découverte, 2011),
Africans: White Response to Blacks, 1530–1880 (Bloomington and along with the film series similarly titled.
Indianapolis: Indiana University Press, 2003); Dominic Thomas,
Black France: Colonialism, Immigration, and Transnationalism
(Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 2007); Pascal Blanchard,
Eric Deroo, and Gilles Manceron, Le Paris Noir (Paris: Editions
Hazan, 2001); and Françoise Vergès, L’homme prédateur (Paris: Albin
Michel, 2011).
9 Kaija Tianen-Anttila, The Problem of Humanity: The Blacks
in the European Enlightenment (Helsinki, Finland: Suomen
Image Matters
Archive, Photography, and the
African Diaspora in Europe
TINA M. CAMPT
118 photographs, 10 illustrations,
paper, $24.95
“None of the riveting photographs in Image Matters are what they first seem. As Tina M. Campt’s
analysis unfolds, the images of black diasporic communities in Europe are revealed to be infinitely
complex. They complicate accepted narratives and link to larger questions about the nature of
historical evidence and the historical process. Ultimately, they become a prism for thinking about the
diasporic condition itself, drawing attention to the diversity of black experience and to the ways that
diaspora involves not only movement but also staying put.”—Elizabeth Edwards, author of The
Camera as Historian: Amateur Photographers and Historical Imagination, 1885–1918
Michael McMillan
D
andyism was initially imposed on black
men in eighteenth-century England as the
transatlantic slave trade and an emerging
A dandy is a kind of embodied, animated sign sys- culture generated a vogue in dandified black
tem that deconstructs given and normative catego- servants. The black dandy’s appropriation of
ries of identity (elite, white, masculine, heterosex- Western Victorian and Edwardian aesthetics was
ual, patriotic) and reperforms them in a manner infused with African sensibilities to create a new
more in keeping with his often avant garde visions character in the visual landscape, identifiable by
of society and self. ironic gestures, witty sartorial statements, and
Monica L. Miller, Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism improvisations on existing styles. In a British
and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity context there are notable examples of black dandies
who have made themselves present where they
would otherwise have been absent or erased from
the colonial era through the post-colonial period,
which was marked by significant post–Second
World War Caribbean migration.
Space does not allow an unpacking of black
dandy geneologies from the eighteenth century
except to say that, as Monica Miller points out in
her seminal book Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism
and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity, histories
Journal of Contemporary African Art • 38–39 • November 2016
60 • Nka DOI 10.1215/10757163-3641689 © 2016 by Nka Publications
Three Jamaican immigrants arrive at Tilburg Docks, Essex, June 22, 1948, on board the
ex-troopship SS Empire Windrush, smartly dressed in zoot suits and trilby hats. Left to right: John
Hazel, a twenty-one-year-old boxer; Harold Wilmot, thirty-two; and John Richards, a twenty-
two-year-old carpenter. Photo: Douglas Miller
McMillan Nka • 61
and analyses of dandyism in a European context entanglement of style-fashion-desire or, to use
have not explored to any significant extent factual Tulloch’s triumvirate, “style-fashion-dress.” In this
or fictional black dandies.1 Needless to say, a “racial- context, style constitutes a system of concepts that
ized dandy” disrupts and subverts the gendered signifies the multitude of meanings and frameworks
status quo, as he is hypermasculine and feminine. As that are always the “whole-and-part” of dress stud-
if to compensate for his emasculation by slavery, he ies. Tulloch sees style as agency in the construction
is the “aggressively heterosexual” outsider announc- of self through the assemblage of garments, acces-
ing his “alien status” by clothing his dark body in sories, and beauty regimes that may or may not be
a fine suit.2 In focusing on how Caribbean migrant in fashion at the time of use.6 The style of dress worn
men and their sons contributed to understanding by black people, where blackness here is culturally,
black dandyism in an African diasporic context, this historically, and politically constructed, has had a
article will focus on the material culture and per- profound effect on the fashion of street cultures in
formativity of the saga bwoy (bwoy as in Caribbean Britain since at least the 1940s, at the moment of
creole vernacular) and rude bwoy as markers of post–World War II Caribbean migration.7
sartorial interventions that Eastern Caribbean and I have always been struck by how men and
Jamaican migrant men were making in the 1950s women of my father’s generation were so well
and the 1960s, respectively, in an attempt to convert dressed in those iconic black-and-white documen-
absence into presence through self-display.3 tary photographs depicting their arrival in their
Stuart Hall describes the symbolic journey of the new homeland after a three-week transatlantic jour-
diasporic subject as circuitous rather than teleologi- ney by sea. With dignity and respectability packed
cal. He characterizes diasporic subjectivity as a pro- deep in their suitcases, they were formally dressed
cess of becoming that involves traveling by another as a sign of self-respect—with dresses pressed and
route to arrive at the same place as the original point hats angled in a “universally jaunty cocky” style,
of departure. This rerouting creates the possibility in preparation for whatever was to happen next.8
to retell the past in a new way, which the moment Their neatly pressed suits were complemented with
of arrival in the old world (the “mother country” white breast-pocket handkerchiefs, polished brogue
of the British Empire) provided for migrants of my shoes, white starched shirts with throat-strangling
parents’ generation. In this framework, as Hall sees ties, and topped by trilby hats that they set at a
it, identity is a performative process, continually cocked angle.
negotiating through a “complex historical process of
appropriation, compromise, subversion, masking, Cool
invention and revival.”4 Within the struggle for meaning over the
representation of the black male body, the black
Style-Fashion-Dress dandy operates in the process of becoming in a
As Carol Tulloch argues, black style has always betwixt-and-between world that is governed by
“played a starring role” in the development of black the context of his practice. That context is usually
culture, embodied in dress, music, language, and public, and for the dandy, much less the black
mannerisms, yet it remains a “complex commodity” dandy, the street is his home, where performance
to adequately define.5 Being elusively enigmatic, is inscribed in his (sometimes her) signifying
black style is more about who or what expresses practices as a “cultural sphere” of representation.9
style at a particular moment rather than about being This “is situated entirely on boundaries; boundaries
cool or being an arbiter of style. go through it everywhere. . . . Every cultural act
What is suggested here is that style is a process lives on boundaries; in this is its seriousness
of becoming, which echoes Hall’s conception of and significance.”10 The dialectic of that context
diasporic identity as a dialectic between subject is symbolically expressed in Hall’s metaphor of
positions. This negotiation of multiple subject frontlines and backyards. Operating in the public
positions as a means to express emotion through realm, the frontline represents a politicized edge
the performance of the dressed body is a form of between black culture and white culture; the
McMillan Nka • 63
and vernacular language. Slicking back the hair so strategic inflections, re-accentuations and other
that it was shiny and smooth was achieved by cut- performative moves in semantic syntactic and lexical
ting the hair close or by relaxing or straightening codes.23
it with a process called congolene, using a mixture
of lye, eggs, and potatoes.18 In fact, in his autobiog- The zoot suit for young African American
raphy Malcolm X recalls how wearing his “conk” and Mexican American men provided a means of
hairstyle, associated with zoot suiters and musicians negotiating subject positions in the making and
like Little Richard and social deviants like pimps remaking of their identities. From a subcultural
and drug dealers, was a painful experience.19 perspective, wearing a zoot suit was a rebellion
How the zoot suit was worn was heavily influ- through style against white hegemony, parental
enced by the walk or strut, a confident swagger repression, and black middle-class conservatism
through which the body performed a “transcen- in American society. The suit became a code for
dental balance and transient rebellion.” Intrinsic to criminal male youths, and a rationing order issued
the style-fashion-dress of the zoot suit was jive talk, in 1942 restricted the suit, along with other goods.
which was used in the African American swing com- Regardless, zoot suiters continued their conspicu-
munity to detract and sometimes put down the white ous consumption of what has been called bling.
man. Alford acknowledges that some define jive talk African American and Hispanics would promenade
as a language intrinsic to the signifying practice of around town; in 1943, during the Second World
the zoot suit, yet she does not explore it beyond the War, this attracted negative and violent attacks
semiotic meaning of argot.20 Relegating jive talk to from Navy servicemen, who went on “zootbeating”
colloquial slang negates the fact that it is expressed sprees. The zoot suit became associated with race
as much through the body as part of an oral tradition riots across the United States at a time when racism
such as creole languages in the Caribbean. Jive talk was rife and many African Americans and Mexican
and creole languages appropriate a European lexicon American felt disenfranchised.
with African grammar or rhythm and have been stig-
matized through the colonialist lens on creole culture The zoot suit was a refusal . . . of subservience. . . . It was
that shaped the racism that characterized slavery.21 during his period as a young zoot-suiter that Chicano
These expressions provide black people, and provided union activist Cesar Chavez first came into contact with
the enslaved, a secret language and a soft means of community politics, and it was through the experiences
resistance in order to subvert the power of the white of participating in zoot-suit riots in Harlem, that the
and colonial elite; as a consequence, they have been young pimp “Detroit Red” began a political education
demonized as inferior languages. Caribbean poets that transformed him into the Black radical leader
like Louise Bennett and Edward Kamau Brathwaite Malcolm X.24
have reclaimed Creole as a national language by valo-
rizing its practice within an oral tradition that resists The influence of the zoot suit’s style-fashion-
its demonization as an inferior dialect or bastardized dress migrated beyond the United States to youth
pidgin form of the colonial tongue.22 cultures that were emerging elsewhere. It would also
be acknowledged as the first American suit, inform-
Across a whole range of cultural forms there is a ing the aesthetics of style through generously cut
“syncretic” dynamic which critically appropriates and elaborate pin-striped, herringbone, and plaid
elements from the master-codes of the dominant cul- suits with long, roomy coats and generously cut
ture and “creolises” them, disarticulating given signs pleated and cuffed pants.25
and re-articulating their symbolic meaning. The
subversive force of this hybridising tendency is most Saga Bwoys
apparent at the level of language itself where creoles, The style-fashion-dress of the zoot suit was also
patois and black English decentre, destabilise and evident in the brightly colored, generously cut suits
carnivalise the linguistic domination of “English”— a that black men wore in the Caribbean during the
nation language of the master discourse—through 1950s. As with the zoot suit, the flamboyant use of
They set a new pace in picture ties, and “Tropical” Supposed predation by black men on white women
lightweight, vanilla-tinted, Scottish tweed or was another staple image recycled from the ancient
“Rainbow” mohair suits, so devilishly cut by fellow lexicon of colonial racism. Those men were linked
cottage bespoke tailors they appeared to move in to the image of the pimp, and whether they were
rhythm with the wearer’s easy stride. Hats expertly black or white, the women with whom they associ-
perched on the head completed the look. It was an ated were marked by the taint of prostitution. If the
ensemble so sharp that these purveyors of style women were unwilling, the men became rapists. If
appeared to slice their way through the smog of the women were willing, they became the vanguard
Britain’s major cities. It was a potent, capricious of racial degeneration.31
mode of dress worn en masse by black, working class
immigrants, accompanied by a deep-rooted love Then there is Harris:
affair with hot calypsos, sensuous Latin-American
sounds and temperamental jazz. A rhythmic patter Harris is a fellar who like to play ladeda, and he like
laced with fresh, intoxicating words and phrases, was English customs and thing, he does be polite and say
an essential accessory.27 thank you and he does get up in the bus and the tube
to let woman sit down, which is a thing even them
In Eastern Caribbean vernacular, saga bwoys, Englishmen don’t do. And when he dress, you think
or sweet bwoys, were men who combined sartorial is some Englishman going work in the city, bowler
orginality with ways of walking and talking in con- and umbrella, and briefcase tuck under the arm, with
spicuous display.28 To echo the point made by Daniel The Times fold up in the pocket so the name would
Miller in his anthropological research in Trinidad, show, and he walking upright like life is he alone who
gallerying, or promenading, is not so much fashion alive in the world. Only thing, Harris face black.32
as style, not simply what is worn but how it is worn,
based on the recombining of elements in an indi- Harris could be read here as registering a “speaky
vidual style that has a transient quality. It is about spokey” sensibility, being more English than the
maintaining a personal reputation for the occasion, English, a mimic man imitating the mores of the
the event for the moment. It is therefore ephemeral colonial elite. And yet it is Harris who organizes
just like the costumes made for carnival, signifying dances that provide a disparate network of West
on something or someone as the performance of Indians a place to socialize with each other during
style.29 Like zoot suiters, the suits saga bwoys wore the late 1950s. We could imagine Harris among a
had full pants that were comfortable and roomy and group of West Indian shakers and movers greet-
conducive to dancing to swing, jazz, Latin American ing Norman Manley, the Jamaican prime minister,
music, and calypso. when he visited England in 1958 after the race riots
In his novel The Lonely Londoners, Sam Selvon in Notting Hill.
describes the attention to detail that the character What both Harris and Sir Galahad share as
Sir Galahad pays in dressing for a date: the clean- immigrants are aspirational desires in a long pro-
ing of his shoes with Cherry Blossom until he could cess of becoming, becoming settled, and becoming
see his face in the leather; putting on a new pair of something else in Britain. Moreover, there were
socks with a nylon splice in the heel and the toe; many men and women like Harris who, imbued
the white Van Heusen shirt; the tie he chooses from with an English colonial culture, practiced high
McMillan Nka • 65
standards of sartorial expression and good groom- We can sense the transcendental cool and
ing of their body, as well as social behavior and the transient rebelliousness in Hebdige’s description.
presentation of self based on manners and respect. The bad bwoy, pistol-slinging Ivan, played by
There is a myth that because Caribbean migrants Jimmy Cliff in the 1972 film The Harder They
were socially leveled as working class, if not the Come, would come to signify the rude bwoy image
underclass, they all came from such backgrounds in throughout the African diaspora. The rude bwoy
the Caribbean. Many were in fact highly educated style was also immortalized in ska music from the
professionals and artisans; regardless, an unspoken 1960s onward, with The Wailers’ “The Rude Boy”
moral code existed among them that was based on (1964), produced by Clement Dodd, or Prince
minding appearances and creating the impression Buster’s “Too Hot” (1967). An archetypal rude
of respectability and reputation that meant they bwoy outfit would have a rhizoidal quality about
largely knew how to dress. Moreover, as noted in its assemblage, rather than being sourced from one
Zimena Percival’s film about migrant workers on stylistic root. It included a red felt hat, tonic suit,
the London buses, Caribbean drivers and conduc- a cotton shirt from Jamaica, a cotton string vest,
tors brought a sense of good grooming and sartorial nylon socks (USA), the loafers, nylon underpants,
neatness that would eventually be adopted by their elastic braces, and a silk handkerchief.
English colleagues.33 Dick Hebdige’s Subculture: The Meaning of Style
begins to discuss how Jamaican rude bwoy sartorial
Rude Bwoys style, creolized expressions, and blue beat music was
Rude bwoy subculture originated in the ghettos of adopted by the hard mods (modernists) and skin-
Kingston, Jamaica, coinciding with the popular rise head subcultures in the 1960s.36 The spaces where
of rocksteady music, dancehall celebrations, and these subcultures encountered each other included
sound-system dances. “They were mostly unem- the Ram Jam club in Brixton, where black and white
ployed and had taken to carrying German ratchet youth mixed and ska music became associated with
knives and hand guns. They could be anything from violence. Hard mods and skinheads were in awe of
fourteen to twenty-five years old and came from all what they perceived to be the rude bwoy’s style-fash-
over West Kingston. And above all, the rude boys ion-dress, as illustrated from a 1964 interview with
were angry.”34 Young, urban, and frequently unem- David Holborne, a nineteen-year-old mod, cited by
ployed, rude bwoys drew inspiration for their cool Tulloch: “At the moment we’re heroworshipping the
and smart style—sharp suits, thin ties, and pork-pie spades—they can dance and sing. . . . We have to get
or trilby hats—from American gangster movies, all our clothes made because as soon as anything is
where the aesthetics of the suits worn were influ- in the shops it becomes too common. I once went
enced by the zoot suit. to a West Indian club where everyone made their
own clothes.”37 This passion for emulation is further
The American soul-element was reflected most highlighted by Hebdige:
clearly in the self-assured demeanour, the sharp
flashy clothes, the “jive-ass” walk which the street The long open coats worn by some West Indians were
boys affected. The rude boy lived for the luminous translated by the skinheads into the “crombie” which
moment, playing dominoes as though his life became a popular article of dress amongst the more
depended on the outcome—a big-city hustler with reggae-oriented groups (i.e., amongst those who
nothing to do, and all the time rocksteady, ska and defined themselves more as midnight ramblers than
reggae gave him the means with which to move as afternoon Arsenal supporters). Even the erect car-
effortlessly. . . . Cool, that distant and indefinable riage and the loose limbed walk which characterises
quality, became almost abstract, almost metaphysi- the West Indian street-boy were (rather imperfectly)
cal, intimating a stylish kind of stoicism—survival simulated by the aspiring “white negroes.”38
and something more.35
By the 1970s, skinheads and Aggro boys would
became inextricably linked with working-class
McMillan Nka • 67
seen.42 Relevant here is the term bling, in the context expressed a sense of sartorial freedom, liberation,
of the 1998 hit “Bling-Bling” by rapper B.G. (Baby and rebellion. Through diasporic migration and
Gangsta) of the New Orleans–based group Cash settlement, the diffusion, aesthetic exchange, and
Money Millionaires. The Oxford English Dictionary appropriation of their style-fashion-dress reveal
defines bling not only as a “piece of ostentatious dynamic and fresh possibilities for rethinking black
jewelry,” but also as any “flashy” accoutrement masculinities and the performance of the clothed
that “glorifies conspicuous consumption.” Bling is male body in the public domain that still resonate
not simply about conspicuous consumption; it is today.
also about visual effect, the way light, for instance,
strikes the diamond/ice in that necklace or ring to Michael McMillan is a British-born playwright,
reveal its opulence, and through the optics of shine, artist / curator of Vincentian migrant heritage, and
blinds the viewer with its visibility/invisibility while associate lecturer in cultural and historical studies at
simultaneously appearing larger than life. the London College of Fashion, University of the Arts
In drawing this essay to a close it is evident that London.
in their performance of the style-fashion-dress
the zoot suiter, saga bwoy, rude bwoy, and sapeurs Notes
1 Monica Miller, Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the
continually remake themselves not only in terms of Styling of Black Diasporic Identity (Durham, NC: Duke University
blackness as deviance, but also blackness as creativ- Press, 2009), 10.
ity. This perspective, as proposed by curator Paul 2 Ibid., 11.
3 Ibid., 10.
Goodwin and cited by Tulloch, opens up what has 4 Stuart Hall, “Cultural Identity and Diaspora,” in Colonial
been termed post-black. On this subject, Tulloch Discourse and Post-Colonial Theory: A Reader, ed. Patrick Williams
quotes Thelma Golden of the Studio Museum in and Laura Williams (London: Harvester Wheatsheaf, 1993), 401.
5 Carol Tulloch, “Rebel without a Pause: Black Street Style
Harlem: and Black Designers,” in Chic Thrills: A Fashion Reader, ed.
Juliet Ash and Elizabeth Wilson (London: Pandora, 1992), 85.
[P]ost-black is a concept that “is not about erasing 6 Carol Tulloch, ed., Black Style (London: V&A Publishing,
2004), 14.
the past, but to restart and reset, an attitude, a stance,
7 Stuart Hall and Mark Sealy, Different (London: Phaidon,
a positioning, a way to enable expansive questioning 2001), 12.
to see culture in a broader sense. A space in which to 8 Stuart Hall, “Reconstruction Work: Stuart Hall on Images of
look backward in order to look forward.” The unrav- Post War Black Settlement,” Ten-8, no. 16 (1984): 4.
9 Walter Benjamin, Charles Baudelaire: A Lyric Poet in the
eling of what post-black means is in its early stages.43 Era of High Capitalism (New York: Verso, 1997), 35.
10 Deborah J. Haynes, Bakhtin and the Visual Arts (Cambridge:
Tulloch goes on to quote Shirley Anne Tate: Cambridge University Press, 1995), 85.
11 Stuart Hall, “Aspiration and Attitude . . . Reflections on Black
Britain in the Nineties,” New Formations: Frontlines/Backyards, no.
We are in a post-Black is beautiful discursive space 33 (1998): 38.
where “post” points to the waning of old paradigms 12 Daniel Miller, “Fashion and Ontology in Trinidad,” in
Design and Aesthetics: A Reader, ed. Jerry Palmer and Mo Dodson
without their supersession by anything new. As we (London: Routledge, 1996), 136.
are still living and developing this space we cannot 13 Ibid.
say what its outcome will be. What we can say though 14 Stuart Hall, Jessica Evans, and Sean Nixon, eds.
Representation, 2nd ed. (Milton Keynes: Oxford University Press /
is that the “Black” in Black beauty has become part
Sage, 2013), 237.
of the axes of difference which provide overlapping 15 Tulloch, Black Style, 12.
lines of identification, exclusion and contestation 16 Farris Robert Thompson, Aesthetics of Cool: Afro-Atlantic
Art and Music (New York: Periscope, 2011), 29.
over beauty paradigms.44
17 H. Alford, “The Zoot Suit: Its History and Influence,”
Fashion Theory 8, no. 2 (2004): 225–236.
In a globalized postcolonial and neoliberal 18 Ibid., 226.
market society where “beauty paradigms” are often 19 Malcolm X with Alex Haley, The Autobiography of Malcolm X
(New York: Grove, 1965), 155.
expressed through Western cultural hegemony, 20 Alford, “The Zoot Suit,” 227.
it is evident that saga bwoys and rude bwoys, like 21 R. Mooneeram, “From Creole to Standard: Shakespeare,
other black dandies within the African diaspora, Language, and Literature in a Postcolonial Context,” in Cross/
McMillan Nka • 69
PORTRAITS IN BLACK
STYLING, SPACE, AND SELF
IN THE WORK OF
BARKLEY L. HENDRICKS AND
ELIZABETH COLOMBA
Anna Arabindan-Kesson
A
central focus of the 2013 conference Black
Portraiture[s]: The Black Body in the
West was understanding the relationship
between representation and subject formation in
the visual construction of blackness in the West. As
the organizers explained, this requires a dialogue
of sorts: an exploration of representation and its
implications. If we think of these conversations as
taking a kind of call-and-response format, we could
ask: What are we responding to?1
Black intellectuals, including Phillis Wheatley,
Sojourner Truth, and Frederick Douglass, have
always been aware of the power of (self)-repre-
sentation.2 These women and men radicalized the
visual technologies and aesthetic principles of their
moment to project their personhood beyond the
strictures of racist constructions that denied their
subjectivity. Their self-representation was, on the
one hand, a response to negative, caricatured, and
violent forms of visual erasure. But as Richard J.
Powell has pointed out, these acts reconstituted
the black body while also reforming the aesthet-
ics of portraiture, a genre that has often worked to
marginalize, negate, or simply ignore expressions
Journal of Contemporary African Art • 38–39 • November 2016
70 • Nka DOI 10.1215/10757163-3641700 © 2016 by Nka Publications
Barkley L. Hendricks, APBs
(Afro Parisian Brothers), 1978. Oil
and acrylic on linen canvas, 72 x
50 in. Courtesy the artist and Jack
Shainman Gallery, New York.
© Barkley L. Hendricks
Arabindan-Kesson Nka • 71
Barkley L. Hendricks, Noir, 1978.
Oil and acrylic on canvas, 72 x 48 in.
Courtesy the artist and Jack Shainman
Gallery, New York. © Barkley L.
Hendricks
Arabindan-Kesson Nka • 73
aggrandizing aesthetic and narrative style.11 The portraiture. Although highly realistic, the
Grand Manner portrait is itself a kind of costume interlocking planes of color, smooth surface, and
drama, where theatricality and performance close cropping collapse the relationship between
coalesce in the atmospheric gestures of impasto, figure and ground. This flatness evokes the cool
brush stroke, and composition. Women and men ambivalence of pop art, just as Hendricks’s choice
are idealized as historical actors. They are of their of subject resonates with the movement’s collapse of
time while also existing beyond it. boundaries between high and low culture.17 Painted
While portraiture is in essence a form of memo- in oil, the figures in these paintings glisten. Behind
rialization, the Grand Manner portrait monumen- them the acrylic matte finish of the background
talizes and transforms sitters from the domestic creates the semblance of chiaroscuro through sheen:
surrounds of the everyday into classicized subjects. the men are highlighted and propelled forward.
In their size and sharp detail both APBs and Noir Despite the paintings’ obvious flatness, a clear depth
allude to this painterly style. They are large in scale of vision is being created. It is tempting to see this as
and sensual in detail. Carefully modulated tones a kind of iconicity: the projection of an interiority,
and sharply observed bodily posturing dramatically an immanence, that goes beyond the external and
convey these men as psychologically heightened physical reality we see.18 This notion of the iconic
subjects—personas, not mere likenesses. Such is further complicated for contemporary viewers
idealized projection has long been associated with by these portraits’ historical context. Painted in an
whiteness.12 Hendricks’s decision to draw on the era where the catchphrase “Black is beautiful” held
aesthetics of the Grand Manner portrait to paint international importance, APBs and Noir—from
subjects deemed outside the realms of canonical art their natural hairstyles to the finely cut suits—
history destabilizes the cultural hierarchies signi- embody the powerful meaning of this phrase and
fied by painting. As I briefly outlined earlier, black its transnational resonances.
subjects have always been creators of their own por- By the time Hendricks came to paint these
traits.13 But I would argue that here Hendricks’s self- men, he had already traveled to Nigeria more than
conscious reconceptualization of the mythologizing once, participating in the Second World Black and
tendencies of the Grand Manner portrait radically African Festival of Arts and Culture and visiting
alters the ways in which the black body, and par- various cultural sites. For Hendricks it was a time
ticularly the black male body, could be viewed in of racial and political awareness, the beginnings of
the politicized, cultural milieu of America in the a black diasporic consciousness that continues to
1960s and 1970s, the era when he began painting, shape his understanding of black identity, and par-
and still today. This act is not simply a reinsertion of ticularly black masculinity, today.19 It was also for
the black body into the art historical canon; rather, Hendricks a time of artistic exploration that allowed
it emerges from the destabilization of the figure/ him to express his fascination with sartorial splen-
ground relationship through a set of spatial aesthet- dor across national boundaries. In an interview
ics that I want to explicate further here.14 with Thelma Golden he explains that “there was a
Hendricks was not involved in the separatist style at the time, with the long, slit-back suits that
aesthetics of the Black Arts movement, nor you saw a lot of tall, graceful African brothers wear-
did he find a home within the photorealism or ing.”20 A black American in Paris, Hendricks also
abstractionist tendencies of mainstream American remembers being interested by different diasporic
art. Yet his braggadocio style, attention to detail, and expressions of black identity. Hendricks’s collapse
intense color fields engage all these movements.15 of the aesthetic relationship between surface/depth
His photographic accuracy and sensitivity to color is, then, a response to the sartorial gestures he wit-
also reveal the influence of his teachers at the Yale nessed around him. It is fundamentally a spatial
School of Art, Walker Evans and Josef Albers, move. Hendricks transforms the canvas into some-
between 1970 and 1972.16 Maintaining a classically thing like a catwalk across which these two brothers
influenced painterly style, the artist dispels with project themselves through their attention to detail,
the accessorized background of more traditional from the belt buckles to their hairstyles, mirroring
Arabindan-Kesson Nka • 75
what a critical genealogy of black portraiture might
look like now. In APBs and Noir Hendricks uses the
language of the Grand Manner portrait to harness
the spatial maneuvers of street culture and trans-
form portraiture into a moving spectacle, where the
transnational meanings of black masculinity could
be spatially expressed. New York–based French
artist Elizabeth Colomba’s paintings also revolve
around a spatial disruption to the traditions of
Western art in order to express alternative histories
of blackness and representation. Her paintings are a
study in the tensions between movement and still-
ness. In many of her oils, she uses surfaces to render
her astute observation into luxurious form: tapes-
tries fall thickly; dresses form stiff coverings around
lithe bodies that glide or sit or stand. Furnishings
glisten, while ornate chairs and tables of dark woods
anchor her interiors, whose stillness is activated by
the interaction of objects, artistic references, and
figures.
In Mama Legba (2011) Colomba draws on the
religious themes of Haitian voudun, refiguring
Papa Legba, the interlocutor, intermediary, and
voice of God, as a woman. The painting is full of
symbolism—the rooster symbolizing vigilance, the
cat as a symbol of freedom, and the cornucopia of
fruit and bread a symbol of abundance and fertil-
ity.25 Mama Legba has the charisma and power of a
John Singer Sargent portrait. With her red-gloved
hand on her hip she shimmers in the haute cou-
ture of a feathery bodice overlaid with beads and
pearls. Silver jewelry flowers over an ivory-rustled
silk gown. She stands on thick carpet, a rich floral
design that is rhymed with the curvature and carv-
Elizabeth Colomba, Mama Legba, 2011. Oil on canvas, 48 x 35 in. Courtesy ings on the green chair and the basket of fruit it
the artist. © Elizabeth Colomba holds. Portraying an allegorical, mythical figure—
one that Colomba associates with the Caribbean
movement were, for moments, not impermeable island of Haiti—this painting theatrically brings
. . . a kind of freedom dream.”24 And it is this spatial together myth and portraiture to construct a
movement that Hendricks appears to draw on most powerful narrative of black femininity.26 It draws
fully here, an aesthetic that seems to mirror, perhaps, on the society portraits of artists like Sargent, in
his own hopes for a diasporic expression of black which the female form and fashion coalesce into
subjectivity that could exist beyond the boundaries a powerful portrayal of personality and status.27
of nation: a hope he continues to express in his art Colomba’s black subject perfectly adapts to this
and musings. narrative of portraiture with her haute couture,
To conclude this examination, I want to briefly powerful posing, and steely gaze; however, she
sketch out a more contemporary expression of this evokes an alternate history of black identity,
spatial reformulation and begin to think through expression, and community. As with Hendricks,
Arabindan-Kesson Nka • 77
this defamiliarization involves the re-creation of a the (domestic) space of portraiture as a site of
movement in space. We move into a space that lies encounter, or what Mary Louise Pratt has called
beyond the upper-class drawing rooms and salons a “contact zone.”30 Colomba turns the power
of Europe yet seems to simultaneously exist along- dynamics of this encounter on its head, however.
side them. This is a space where alternate visual Her portraits do not point to an origin so much
genealogies might be created from the networks of as embody the constant sense of translation that
black diasporic heritage. takes place in any kind of encounter—what Stuart
This becomes clearer in the painting Seated Hall has called the “logic of cultural translation”
(1997). Here Colomba makes specific reference within Caribbean, diasporic cultures.31 Here she
to James Abbot McNeil Whistler’s Arrangement in stages the interaction of two visual histories: that
Grey and Black No. 1: Portrait of the Artist’s Mother of the black body and its canonical referents. By
(1871), replacing the white mother with this reflec- using the language of portraiture to embody
tive black woman. In Seated the woman is painted in this interaction, she collapses the hierarchical
gray, white, and inky blue. She is silent and smooth; classicizing ideals of the canon and instead
her features and form are powerfully sculpted and uses them to create an alternate mythology, an
thickly textured; her impassive body anchors the alternative genealogy of visuality drawn from the
painting. Framed into the background behind her networks of black diasporic movement and history.
is a portrait of a topless black woman, which she Colomba’s portraits become the space in which
looks past. The lines of their sight form a dynamic these mythologies take shape; her interiors stage
movement within the painting that punctuates its these transnational routes, histories, and dreams as
stillness. Colomba has inserted Marie-Guillemine they coalesce into paint.
Benoist’s Portrait d’une Négresse (1800), a painting Rather than inserting black bodies into the
inspired by the French decree to abolish slavery in canon, both Hendricks and Colomba imagine
1794. In the paintings by Benoist and Whistler, the what a history of art might look like in which black
female form figures as allegory and surrogate. In bodies are not only subjects, but their presence
one she asserts a new understanding of the mate- also requires new modes of aesthetic expression.
riality of figuration as pure color. In the other she Like artists who came before them, they draw on
stands as a symbol of sociopolitical critique. In the vernacular and the diasporic experiences of
both, the women represent the artist’s desire for a their communities to reconceptualize the ideal-
new aesthetic language.28 izing language of canonical art history.32
Colomba’s reformulation of these historical
works suggests a similar aesthetic maneuver. In other Anna Arabindan-Kesson is an assistant professor in
words, her work is not simply concerned with acts the Art and Archaeology and African American Stud-
of omission. Behind the elderly woman in Seated is ies departments at Princeton University.
a second painting of a tropical picturesque scene.
It rises above her like an exteriorization of a private Notes
reflection. While the landscape painting might 1 Robert Farris Thompson, Flash of the Spirit: African and Afro-
American Art and Philosophy (New York: Random House, 1983),
reflect a point of origin, grounding the painting, xiii.
it also troubles this connection. It evokes histories 2 Gwendolyn DuBois Shaw and Emily K. Shubert, Portraits
of trauma, spaces of encounter, creolization, and of a People: Picturing African Americans in the Nineteenth
Century (Andover, MA: Addison Gallery of American Art,
hybridity that reflect the complicated networks Phillips Academy; Seattle: University of Washington Press, 2006);
of movement shaping black diasporic identity.29 Celeste-Marie Bernier, Characters of Blood: Black Heroism in the
Like Hendricks, Colomba draws on the iconicity Transatlantic Imagination (Charlottesville: University of Virginia
Press, 2012); Nell Irvin Painter, Sojourner Truth: A Life, a Symbol,
of portraiture as a genre, only to reassemble its (New York: W. W. Norton, 1997); John Stauffer et al., Picturing
formulation around the black body. Hendricks Frederick Douglass: An Illustrated Biography of the Nineteenth
uses his monochrome backdrop to evoke the Century’s Most Photographed American (New York: Liveright,
2015).
vernacular aesthetics of a transnational black self-
fashioning. Colomba’s paintings reconceptualize
Arabindan-Kesson Nka • 79
POST-POST-
BLACK?
Nana Adusei-Poku
T
In the collective experience of African / Diasporic he politics of time has been not only a central
histories and futures we live our theories, work and tool to strategically oppress people, but also a
praxis not as some distant dream, but as something tool for liberation.1 Given the complexity of
that can and will happen, that is happening right now. our contemporary, in which a black person can be
Peggy Piesche, Deposits of Future under life threat due to the aftermath of colonialism
or the aftermath of slavery, a black person can also
be very powerful.
The curatorial statement Post . . . introduced the
term post-black art for the first time.2 In this article,
I will focus on post-black art and reflect upon some
of the possible ways to think about contemporary
art and our methods by looking retrospectively at
the term. My argument speaks to the synchronicity
of multiple ideas of blackness within the diasporas,
namely that new concepts framing groups of black
people are invented, such as Afropolitan, that obstruct
the intrinsic potential of post-black art as well as
the actual individual art pieces that challenge and
emphasize the changing meaning of identity.
Post-black has been applied to a generation of
artists born since the mid-1960s. It derives from a
curatorial concept developed at the Studio Museum
in Harlem, New York, that signaled a new aes-
thetic articulation of black artists and subsequently
Journal of Contemporary African Art • 38–39 • November 2016
80 • Nka DOI 10.1215/10757163-3641711 © 2016 by Nka Publications
Lynette Yiadom-Boakye, Firecrest, 2013. Oil on canvas, 59 x 55 1/8 in. Courtesy the artist; Jack Shainman Gallery, New York; and Corvi-Mora, London.
© Lynette Yiadom-Boakye
Adusei-Poku Nka • 81
promised an alternative political practice, as its claim Okudzeto, Mark Bradford, and Kojo Griffin. The
went beyond the visual arts.3 I became interested second exhibition was named Frequency (2005),
in the idea of post-black in 2009, as I encountered, featuring artists such as Xaviera Simmons and Kalup
apart from Stuart Hall’s writing from the late 1990s, Linzy. Four years after the term post-black entered the
a theoretical vacuum in terms of being black in the discussions Malik Gaines remarked in the catalogue
contemporary Anglophone European context. I was to Frequency that the term was ambiguously per-
particularly interested in concepts that would provide ceived, either as a disrespectful dismissal of the politi-
a possible framework to write about this generation cal achievements of the civil rights movement or as
of black individuals and artists.4 The curator Thelma a marketing strategy for a newly appointed curator.8
Golden and the artist Glen Ligon coined the term The third exhibition called Flow presents the work of
post-black in 2001 with Freestyle, the first in a series of twenty artists of African descent, some who live and
four Studio Museum shows featuring up-and-coming work on the continent and some who do not, but all
black artists. Golden and Ligon described post-black of whom spend time in Africa and are focused on
art polemically in the curatorial note as a generation African issues and methods and celebrate the compli-
of artists who were rejecting identity categories such cated and complex contemporary diaspora.9 Through
as black and nevertheless using black culture as a this opening to a wider diaspora new terms entered
resource while redefining blackness on their own the post-black discourse, as I will shortly discuss. In
terms.5 Post-black drew on a sense of generational- 2013 the “F” series of emerging artists concluded with
ism prevalent in contemporary art in conjunction a show called Fore that did not mention post-black
with ageism, based on the neoliberal belief that art and instead highlighted the artists’ birthdates
everything new and different is created by a younger (between 1971 and 1987) as well as their various
generation of artists whose work is seen as inherently means of expression.10
innovative and progressive, instead of investing in During the third exhibition, Flow, the discourse
the generational differences in aesthetic practices as on post-black shifted tremendously after the 2008
consistencies.6 Second, it also emphasized this new- presidential election of Barack Obama. This presi-
ness (“post-black was the new black”) within a logic dency has continued to challenge our thinking about
of linear temporality.7 Therefore, by using the term race, govermentality, and dispositions of power;
post-black one is trapped in the assumption that post- notions of oppression and solidarity on the basis of
black heralds the end of black represented by the civil race are questioned and stress the interdependence
rights era and connected to the idea of a post-racial and intersectionalities with other categories such as
society, which was never proposed by Golden. class, gender, and sexuality.11 At the same time, as
In 2016, it appears to me to be impossible to con- these aspects take center stage, another era of highly
sider the end of blackness, or a post-racial era, while influential black intellectuals, artists, and antiapart-
the US justice system shows how racialized injustice heid activists comes slowly to an end, heralded by the
is prevailing. Black human beings present the main passing of, for example, Maya Angelou (1928–2014),
population of incarcerated people in the United Stuart Hall (1932–2014), Amiri Baraka (1934–2014),
States, and black lives are consistently under gov- Albert Murray (1916–2013), Chinua Achebe
ernmental physical threat. I am nevertheless arguing (1930–2013), and Nelson Mandela (1918–2013).
that post-black still offers great potential for thinking Their voices will be missed in the necessary dialogue
through and working with blackness in the arts. The among generations of black artists, intellectuals, and
discourse, which was opened up by the term, allows political activists, which reveals that these exhibitions,
one to radically reassess (art historical) methodolo- as well as the term post-black, can also be considered
gies and the way in which we look at contemporary a contemporary archive of sociopolitical discourses
art. that are reflected upon through the arts and consis-
Let me briefly recap from where the term post- tently reassess how blackness is framed, performed,
black art derives. Freestyle was the first show of a and discussed.
tetralogy called the “F” series, introducing a new Flow finally embraced this idea of black artists as
generation of artists that included Layla Ali, Senam not exclusively African American and that the African
Adusei-Poku Nka • 83
in Europe thirty years after the 1960s, with mixed have become a prevalent theme in the artists’ works
parents and family members in various parts of the presented in the Studio Museum’s exhibitions. Also
world and a family history that includes colonial noteworthy is the way in which this generation deals
exploitation, slavery, enslavement, national socialism, aesthetically with these synchronicities through
and many more embodied contradictions, in order media and expressions that range from abstractions
to create one narrative of blackness another category and pop to minimalist references.27 This doesn’t mean
would have to be invented. Coming from this angle that these subjects didn’t exist before, but instead of
I argue that it is the temporal, spatial, and cultural working toward the acceptance and visibility of these
synchronicity, which I call heterotemporal, that most subjects, artists such as Leslie Hewitt, Hank Willis
significantly marks the conditions of being a black Thomas, Mickalene Thomas, Mark Bradford, or Kori
subject in the contemporary and is intrinsic to post- Newkirk simply took them as a given. I consequently
black art. Heterotemporality means that any sense of argue that their work is the result and complication
linearity of time, space, and history has to be thought of what Hall describes as the “new politics of repre-
of as existing in synchronicity.24 “Hetero” does not sentation,” which highlighted at the end of the 1990s
refer to a binary system of gender or sexuality, but the instability of the category of black interplay with
rather stresses the notion of difference.25 There will gender and sexuality.28
never be a single way to be a black subject, scholar, The photo-conceptual artist Hank Willis Thomas,
artist, or curator. It is the unification and ambiguity who was featured in the first show, Freestyle, engages
that determines my generation and the ones before. the notion of self-conception, constructions of black-
For this reason it appears most eloquent and helpful to ness, and market forces as well as visual regimes
use Stuart Hall’s definition of post- in order to clarify through focusing on the economy of blackness. For
post-black. Hall discusses the term post- in a context example, in his series Unbranded: Reflections in Black
of the role of the museum in his text “Museums of by Corporate America from 1968–2008, Thomas fol-
Modern Art and the End of History,” which I choose lows the developments of visual print advertisements
to apply to post-black. He writes: targeting black audiences. Through digitally erasing
the script from the images, only the photographs
I do not use the term (post) to mean “after” in a and their coded visual messages remain. The images
sequential or chronological sense, as though one as script show the change of style and discourse in
phase or epoch or set of practices has ended and an African American communities from the solidarity-
absolutely new one is beginning. Post, for me, always driven, black-is-beautiful aesthetic to heteronorma-
refers to the aftermath or the after-flow of a particular tive hypersexuality. They also show the shift from
configuration. The impetus which constituted one par- blaxploitation-inspired advertisements to images
ticular historical or aesthetic moment disintegrates in addressing and creating emancipated working
the form in which we know it. Many of those impulses women in the 1980s who would equally manage the
are resumed or reconvened in a new terrain or con- household and satisfy their husbands. These images
text, eroding some of the boundaries which made our of emancipation are superseded by the biopolitical
occupation of an earlier moment seem relatively clear, glossy aesthetics of the 1990s, featuring rap icons such
well bounded and easy to inhabit, and opening in their as Lil’ Kim, who becomes, in a postfeminist turn, a
place new gaps, new interstices.26 prophetic icon wearing a light bikini strip outfit.
These are only a few of the themes that Thomas’s
Looking at post-black or Afropolitan through this installation addresses before it ends with a portrait
angle reveals that we are dealing with a set of syn- of Uncle Ben in a golden frame, subtitled Chairman.
chronicities—not only temporal, spatial, geographic, Uncle Ben is the house slave whose face and name has
economic, and cultural synchronicities, but also the accompanied generations around the globe on pack-
ideological synchronicities of being black. One set ages of parboiled rice.29 The portrait does not directly
that has changed in the discussion about contempo- derive from an advertisement and is inspired by a
rary black art is that the intersections of categories New York Times article, which discusses MasterFood’s
such as race, gender, class, and in particular sexuality approach in its new campaign to depict Uncle Ben as
Adusei-Poku Nka • 85
Leslie Hewitt, Riffs on Real Time (9 of 10), 2013. Traditional chromogenic print, 40 x 30 in. Courtesy the artist and Sikkema Jenkins & Co.
Adusei-Poku Nka • 87
tensions between cultural differences and historical “Letters to Allen Shields Article: Is There a Black Aesthetics?,”
Leonardo 7, no. 2 (1974): 188–89; Norman Lewis, “Oral History
similarities within the black diasporas, it also tends Interview with Norman Lewis, 1968 July 14,” interview by
to become a conversation among experts that leaves Henri Ghent (Oral Histories, Archives of American Art,
those who are in many ways more confronted with Smithsonian Institution), www.aaa.si.edu/collections/interviews
/oral-history-interview-norman-lewis-11465.
everyday racism out of the conversation. So, there is
7 Golden, “Post . . . ,” 14.
often no ground to begin to speak about post-black or 8 Malik Gaines, “Frequency,” in Frequency, ed. Thelma Golden
Afropolitanism in Europe, for example, if blackness and Christine Y. Kim (New York: Studio Museum in Harlem,
is still an underrepresented political category. This 2005), 25. For another in-depth discussion of post-black art see
Nana Adusei-Poku, “The Multiplicity of Multiplicities—Post-Black
is what I mean by the term heterotemporal: there are Art and Its Intricacies,” darkmatter (November 29, 2012), www
different kinds of blackness at play simultaneously. .darkmatter101.org/site/2012/11/29/the-multiplicity-of
Black thought has always been embedded in -multiplicities-%E2%80%93-post-black-art-and-its-intricacies/.
9 Thelma Golden, “Director‘s Foreword,” in Flow, ed. Christine
intellectual exchange across national borders; Y. Kim (New York: Studio Museum in Harlem, 2008), 17.
diaspora means practice and must include knowledge 10 Although the series is concluded, the Studio Museum in
produced on the African continent and in diasporic Harlem is still devoted to exhibiting emerging artists, but the
framing has intrinsically changed. “Curatorial Statement,” in Fore,
contexts that hasn’t been recognized thus far. We exist ed. Lauren Haynes, Naima J. Keith, and Thomas J. Lax (New York:
of multiplicities, as Eduard Glissant has framed it, or as Studio Museum in Harlem, 2012), 22–23.
Henry Louis Gates Jr. articulated it—of a multiplicity 11 Also see Angela Davis, Freedom Is a Constant Struggle
(Chicago: Haymarket Books, 2016), 77, 81ff.
of multiplicities, in fact, and these statements don’t 12 I have to add that these kinds of categories could have been
help if there is no dialogue and subsequent political applied to some of the artists featured in the previous shows as well.
practice that creates and manifests new political 13 For a discussion see Stephanie Bosch Santana, “Exorcizing
Afropolitanism: Binyavanga Wainaina Explains Why ‘I Am a Pan-
imaginaries.
Africanist, Not an Afropolitan’” (paper presented at the African
Studies Association UK Biennial Conference, University of Leeds,
Nana Adusei-Poku is a research professor in cultural September 2012), africainwords.com/2013/02/08/exorcizing
diversity at Rotterdam University and lecturer in me- -afropolitanism-binyavanga-wainaina-explains-why-i-am-a-pan
-africanist-not-an-afropolitan-at-asauk-2012/.
dia arts at the University of the Arts, Zurich. As the 14 Nell Freudenberger, “Home and Exile: ‘Ghana Must Go,’
2015 Curatorial Fellow at Witte de With Center for by Taiye Selasi,” review of Ghana Must Go by Taiye Selasi, New
Contemporary Art in Rotterdam, she co-curated the York Times Sunday Book Review, March 8, 2013, www.nytimes
.com/2013/03/10/books/review/ghana-must-go-by-taiye-selasi
exhibition NO HUMANS INVOLVED. .html. See also Taiye Selasi, “Taiye Selasi on Discovering Her Pride in
Her African Roots,” The Guardian, March 22, 2013, www.guardian
Notes .co.uk/books/2013/mar/22/taiye-selasi-afropolitan-memoir.
1 Michael Hanchard, “Afro-Modernity: Temporality, Politics, 15 Taiye Selasi, “Bye-Bye Barbar,” LIP, March 2005, thelip
and the African Diaspora,” Public Culture 11 (1999): 245–268. .robertsharp.co.uk/?p=76.
2 Thelma Golden, “Post . . . ,” in Freestyle: The Studio Museum 16 Simon Gikandi, “Foreword: On Afropolitanism,” in
in Harlem, ed. Christine Y. Kim and Franklin Sirmans (New York: Negotiating Afropolitanism: Essays on Borders and Spaces in
Studio Museum in Harlem, 2001), 14–15. Contemporary African Literature and Folklore, ed. Jennifer
3 I have to note that the term was used earlier by the art Wawrzinek and J. K. S. Makokha (Amsterdam: Rodopi, 2011),
historian Robert Farris Thompson, in which context he critically 9–11.
discusses multiculturalism and the raising awareness of nonwhite 17 Ibid., 9.
artists. See Robert Farris Thompson, “Afro Modernism,” Artforum 18 Achille Mbembe, “Afropolitanism,” in Africa Remix:
International (1991): 91–94. Contemporary Art of a Continent, ed. Simon Njami and Lucy Durán
4 This remark is not meant as dismissive of the extensive (Johannesburg: Johannesburg Art Gallery, 2007), 26.
scholarship that has been produced over the past twenty years, 19 Okwui Enwezor, “Networks of Practice: Globalization,
but grasping the meaning of blackness from a queer feminist Geopolitics, Geopoetics,” in Contemporary African Art since 1980
perspective in connection to representation is a complex endeavor. (Bologna: Damiani, 2009), 25.
One of the most helpful interventions was Darby English’s How to 20 Aristoteles, Politik, ed. and trans. Olof Gigon (Düsseldorf:
See a Work of Art in Total Darkness (Cambridge, MA: MIT Press, Artemis and Winkler, 2006).
2007). 21 As Salah Hassan has noted in his discussion of Afropolitanism,
5 Golden, “Post . . .,” 14. he also creates an important link to postcolonial theorists like
6 It may be more accurate to speak of different articulations Stuart Hall, when he connects the phenomenon of Afropolitanism
of “old questions” when it comes to black art and intellectual and Hall’s idea of new ethnicities, a term that Hall introduced in
thought, because not wanting to be called a black artist has the end of the 1980s in connection to the changes of the politics of
been a discussion among black artists ever since. See Romare representation in concern of the black body. Salah M. Hassan, “Flow:
Bearden, A History of African-American Artists: From 1792 to the Diaspora and Afro-Cosmopolitanism,” in Flow: The Studio Museum
Present (New York: Pantheon Books, 1993); Romare H. Bearden, in Harlem, ed. Christine Y. Kim und Samir S. Patel (New York: Studio
Adusei-Poku Nka • 89
CONFESSIONS OF
A BLACK FEMINIST
ACADEMIC
PORNOGRAPHER
W
Mireille Miller-Young hen Sander Gilman first published his
pathbreaking work on the iconography
of the Hottentot Venus and early nine-
teenth-century racial scientific inquiry into black
female sexuality, he was accused of going too far.
Gilman’s amply illustrated study, published in the
famed Autumn 1985 special issue of Critical Inquiry,
and Gilman’s own 1985 monograph Difference and
Pathology displayed images of Saartije Baartman’s
genitals, as they were studied and eventually dis-
sected and exhibited by French scientists.1 Although
he was accused of “bringing black women into
disrepute” by showing these images, his work
revolutionized the study of black female sexuality,
inspiring scores of black feminists to theorize (and
argue about) Baartman’s iconicity—the Hottentot
Venus—as urtext for emergent thinking on racial-
ized sexuality and discourses of black female sexual
deviance. Gilman reflected on the difficulty of being
labeled an academic pornographer in his foreword
to artist Kara Walker’s 2007 book My Complement,
My Enemy, My Oppressor, My Love.2 Black feminist
responses to Walker’s controversial art ignited simi-
lar accusations about her role as exhibitor-purveyor
of “negative images” that pandered to the racism
of white audiences.3 Gilman’s essay, “Confessions
of an Academic Pornographer,” highlights how
entrenched and complicated issues of representa-
tion are for scholars and artists who work on black
women’s images.
The visual representation of black sexuality
images is a powerful one for black feminists. We
Journal of Contemporary African Art • 38–39 • November 2016
90 • Nka DOI 10.1215/10757163-3641722 © 2016 by Nka Publications
work in pornography, but also showing this history
in various presentation formats. As I prepared to
publish a manuscript that would reproduce and
circulate these images to an even greater degree, I
found myself considering Sander Gilman’s embrace
of the pejorative title “pornographer.” Gilman’s
move to “confess” his investment and belief in
the work of uncovering a field of vision that, even
though perhaps traumatic, is in essence a complex
iconography of race that we simply must look at and
engage with in order to understand its enduring
power in our lives and on behalf of those in the
image.
How do we begin to theorize the meanings of
black pornography and to understand our own
ways of looking and desiring without ignoring the
fact that we are never outside the sexual (politi-
cal) economy? When I started this project I was
told to either focus on images and representation
or on labor, because they were two separate issues.
However, I have not come to see them that way. I
wanted to understand how the women in the images
experienced the ways in which these images are
produced. I came to understand that black sexual
labor is, in fact, critical to our experiences of visual
culture and sexuality. Women like Jeannie Pepper
Author’s book cover featuring Jeannie Pepper during a photo shoot in Paris,
1986. © John Dragon helped me understand the inextricable connection
between sexual representation and sexual labor.
In 1982 when Jeannie Pepper began her career
as an actress in X-rated films there were few black
have seen black artists like Renee Cox, Carrie Mae women in the adult-film industry. Performing in
Weems, Lyle Ashton Harris, Zaneli Muholi, Cheryl more than two hundred films over three decades,
Dunye, crystal am nelson, and Carla Williams use Jeannie broke barriers to achieve porn-star status
sexuality, and sometimes their own bodies, in their and opened doors for other women of color to
art in ways that powerfully illuminate how the pro- follow.4 She played iconic roles as the naughty maid,
cess of making black sexuality visible necessarily the erotically possessed “voodoo girl,” and the
invokes a collective racial trauma. It is in this collec- incestuous sister in films like Guess Who Came at
tive racial trauma that we find ourselves groping for Dinner?, Let Me Tell Ya ’bout Black Chicks, and Black
a language to talk about our own pleasure and for a Taboo. She traveled internationally as a celebrity,
set of practices for living within and against all the even working and living in Europe for seven years.
contemporary forms of exploitation, alienation, and In a career that spanned the rise of video, DVD,
objectification that make up life under advanced and the Internet, Jeannie watched the pornography
capitalism and sexualized racism. business transform from a quasi-licit cottage indus-
In my fourteen years researching black women try into a sophisticated, transnational, and corpo-
in pornography I have grappled with these issues rate-dominated industry. In 1997 Jeannie was the
profoundly. I have been called a pervert and a first African American porn actress to be inducted
pornographer for not only writing about the history into the honored Adult Video News Hall of Fame.
of black women’s images, performances, and sex By all accounts, Jeannie had an exceptionally long
Miller-Young Nka • 91
and successful career for an adult actress; she was perverse sexuality of black women is thoroughly
well liked by her colleagues and served as a mentor cemented in the popular imaginary.8 Seen as
to young women new to the porn business. Yet the naturally sexual, black women continue to be
experience of being a black woman in the porn fetishized as the very embodiment of excessive or
industry brought formidable challenges. As in other non-normative sexuality. What’s most problematic
occupations in the United States, black women in about this sticky fetishism—in addition to the fact
the adult film industry are devalued workers who that it spreads hurtful and potentially dangerous
confront systemic marginalization and discrimina- stereotypes with very real material effects—is
tion as they toil in an already stigmatized field of that the desire for black women’s sexuality, while
labor. so prevalent, remains unacknowledged, and that
Jeannie became a nude model and adult-film contributes to their structural devaluation in the
actress in her twenties. The reason, she says, is sex industries.
because she enjoyed watching pornography and As a metaphor, brown sugar references a key
having sex and was keen to become a pathmaker component of the profitable industries of entertain-
in an industry with few black female stars: “I just ment and sex in the United States. The expression
wanted to show the world. Look, I’m black and also exposes how black women’s sexuality, or more
I’m beautiful. How come there are not more black precisely their sexual labor, has been historically
women doing this?”5 Jeannie felt especially beauti- embedded in culture and the global economy.
ful when in 1986 she did a photo shoot with her Brown sugar played a central role in the emergence
photographer husband, a German expatriate known of Western nation-states and the capitalist econo-
as John Dragon, on the streets of Paris. Dressed only mies. Across the American South and the Caribbean
in a white fur coat and heels, she walked around, black slaves cultivated and manufactured sugar that
posing in front of the Eiffel Tower and the Arc de sweetened the food, changed tastes, and energized
Triomphe, in cafes, and next to luxury cars. Coyly factory workers in the Industrial Revolution.9 In
allowing her coat to drape open (or off altogether) addition to physical labor, their sexual labor was
at opportune moments, she drew the attention of used to “give birth to white wealth” and was thus
tourists and residents alike. She imagined herself the key mechanism for reproducing the entire
as Josephine Baker, admired in a strange new city plantation complex.10 “Sugar was a murderous com-
for her beauty, class, and grace. Finding esteem and modity,” explains Vincent Brown, “a catastrophe for
fearlessness in showing the world her blackness and workers that grew it.”11 The grinding violence and
beauty, Jeannie felt she embodied an emancipated danger that attended sugar’s cultivation in colonial
black female sexuality. plantations literally consumed black women’s labor
Still, Jeannie remained conscious of the dual and bodies.12 Brown sugar, as a trope, illuminates cir-
pressures of needing to fight for recognition and cuits and nodes of domination over black women’s
opportunity in the adult business, especially in the bodies and their labor. This metaphor exposes black
United States, and having to defend her choice to women’s oft-ignored contributions to the economy,
pursue sex work as a black woman.6 “You are not politics, and social life; like sugar that has dissolved
supposed to talk about liking sex because you are and is traceless but has nonetheless sweetened a
already assumed to be a whore,” said Jeannie.7 Black cup of tea, black women’s labor and the mecha-
women sexual performers and workers have had to nisms that manage and produce it are invisible but
confront a prevailing stigma: if all black women are there nonetheless. The metaphor of brown sugar
considered to be sexually deviant, then those who illustrates how sexualized representations—which
use sex to make a living are the greatest threat to any always manage to be about labor and exploitation as
form of respectable black womanhood. much as they are about desire and a racialized erotic
In my manuscript A Taste for Brown Sugar: Black imaginary—shape the world in which black women
Women in Pornography, I employ brown sugar come to know themselves.
as a metaphor to get at how, publicly scorned and But stereotypes usually have dual valences;
privately enjoyed, the alluring, transformative, and they may also be taken up by the oppressed and
Miller-Young Nka • 93
satisfy her sexual appetite. Even though her choice and labor. Jeannie’s aspirations to be seen as a more
to perform a playful, mysterious, and self-possessed complicated subject than the pornographic script
female character did not dismantle racist regimes allowed involved playing up, against, and within
of representation for black women in pornography, caricature. She imagined herself as an actor depict-
her tactics for self-representation are important to ing a woman with power, one who magically and
recognize. This counterstrategy of representation at mischievously produces men to service her sexual
times involves, as Stuart Hall tells us, attempting to desires, while generating a kind of glamour and
play the stereotype in order to reverse or go beyond joviality. Imagining a black female pornographic
it. At other times it is about offering alternative, sexuality as joyful, subversive, and attractive,
more complex images of black sexuality.21 Jeannie’s performance asserts erotic subjectivity.
For Jeannie another more complex image was Yet her performance is never separate from the
to be found in exotic and cosmopolitan notions of conditions that propelled and shaped her work in
blackness. Deploying public nudity in her photo the porn industry during the 1980s, including the
tour of Europe—she literally stopped traffic in busy impact of Ronald Reagan’s devastating economic
streets—she plays with the illicitness of her sexual- policies and rhetoric on African Americans and
ity and makes it all the more visible. the porn business’s interest in capturing white
consumers for black-cast products during the
Yes, people looked. They were fascinated. “Who is video era. Black porn actresses like Jeannie Pepper
this black lady taking off her clothes?” [they thought.] simultaneously challenge and conform to the very
All the tourists were taking pictures of me too. . . . I racial fantasies that overwhelmingly define their
was in the park posing for pictures and I let them take representations and labor conditions. Their negotia-
pictures of me too. They said, “Who are you?” I said, tions offer a view into black women’s needs, desires,
“I’m Jeannie Pepper from America.”22 and understandings and into the deeply felt conflict
between what stories about black women exist and
Like José Esteban Muñoz’s concept of “disiden- what stories they long to imagine for themselves.
tification,” illicit eroticism helps make sense of how For Jeannie Pepper, like so many black cultural
cultural workers enact a repertoire of skills and theo- workers in the past, achieving cosmopolitanism,
ries—including appropriating certain stereotypes— reaching beyond the confines of national racial
to “negotiate a phobic majoritarian public sphere borders, and inhabiting the unapologetic iconicity
that continuously elides or punishes the existence of black women performers such as Josephine Baker
of subjects who do not conform to the phantasm of were aspects of her illicit erotic repertoire. “How
normative citizenship.”23 Unlike disidentification, were you received in Europe as a black performer?”
illicit eroticism is a repertoire of appropriations I asked. Jeannie Pepper responded:
distinct to the realm of sexual and sexualized labor,
and it is available to those whose sexuality has been Like I was a superstar. Like I was Whitney Houston,
marked specifically as illicit, including people of Josephine Baker, or Billie Holiday, or one of these
color, queer folk, and queer people of color. Illicit women. Like a queen. Like they treat the white
eroticism conceptualizes how these actors use sexu- movie stars over here. They embraced me. They
ality in ways that necessarily confront and manipu- rolled out the red carpet, gave me whatever I wanted,
late discourses about their sexual deviance, while champagne . . . whatever I wanted. At the end of
at the same time they remain tied to a system that the tour I felt like Dorothy [in The Wizard of Oz]
produces them as sexual laborers. tapping my heels to get home. But . . . when I saw
For Jeannie Pepper, leveraging one stereotype the Eiffel Tower my eyes lit up and tears came to my
meant avoiding another. Yet her nonconforming, eyes, I couldn’t believe I was there. Me and Josephine.
layered work as black woman, as hypersexual, as And I felt like Dorothy when she saw the Emerald
voodoo priestess, or as a neo–Josephine Baker in City. . . . I finally made it to Paris and Paris was my
Parisian street theater remains connected to her very Emerald City. . . . Yes, I loved it. I said, “I know these
survival within a punishing field of representation pictures will be around hundreds and hundreds of
Miller-Young Nka • 95
A PICTURE’S WORTH
TOWARD THEORIZING A
BLACK/QUEER GAZE IN THE
INTERNET “PORNUTOPIA”
I
n the early 1990s Essex Hemphill, Kobena Mercer,
Jafari Sinclaire Allen and Isaac Julien incisively problematized high
art photographic images such as famed white gay
American Robert Mapplethorpe’s (in)famous Man
in Polyester Suit, from his impactful work The Black
Book.1 This black-and-white image of a black man
wearing a three-piece suit caused controversy, not
only as one skirmish in the culture wars in which
the work of the photographer was cited by neocon-
servatives as sexually inappropriate pornography
and putatively not art, but also for close readers
who noted that the figure is headless and heart-
less. That is, the image is cropped just at chest level,
revealing only the midsection and, at the center of
the frame, a large semi-erect uncircumcised penis
jutting out suggestively from an open fly. Was this a
comment on the ill-fit of black men in the corporate
world, inappropriately insinuating themselves into
the polyester world of American commerce? Or
perhaps it is a statement of the photographer’s (and
the viewer’s) desire for a big black dick as the only
thing that could be of value or desirable from the
black man, given the fact that there is no head (and
therefore no eyes to the soul or no soul, indeed)
in the frame and no shoulders (to cry on, or even
to put to a hoe). In this essay I am not concerned
to reopen this controversy but rather to query a
similarly framed selfie that I found on the Internet.
I like to call it Brother with No Suit. I have not been
Journal of Contemporary African Art • 38–39 • November 2016
96 • Nka DOI 10.1215/10757163-3641733 © 2016 by Nka Publications
able to trace the precise provenance of this evidently interests, and formats, images of black men and
self-made image, although it is safe to say that it other men racialized as black seem to fit only a
has been shared, (re)blogged, (re)posted, and liked limited number of frame(work)s, which are predict-
hundreds of times around the world. I can say with ably narrativized in advance. In “Just Looking for
certainty that it has traveled at least four continents Trouble: Robert Mapplethorpe and Race Fantasy,”
and has been the bait for catfishing—that is, using an Kobena Mercer’s slight shift from his earlier strong
image or images as the basis for a false or assumed position on Mapplethorpe’s Man in Polyester Suit is
identity—on at least three occasions, including in certainly right that the question the work brings up
the popular practice of racialized cuckolding in is more complex than whether or not Mapplethorpe
which black men serve as exogamous sex partners was a racist.3 Earlier, in “True Confessions,” Mercer
for white women in heterosexual couples. and Julien held that a certain sexual liberalism of
Unlike Mapplethorpe’s studied sculptural studio gay (white) men assumes a freedom of choice to
image, the anonymous brother here appears, as consume various types of porn and that as black
in many selfies or “dick pics,” to be snapping a gay men they are “interest[ed] in the contradictory
quick shot. Moist and therefore ready, semi-erect experience that the porno-photo-text implicates us
but already formidable and seeming unable to be in.”4
contained by his jeans, the figure stands in poetic Indeed, what do these images say to and about
comparison to Man in Polyester Suit, revealing how black men’s desires, both to be seen or framed in
the object is contained in Mapplethorpe’s work. The particular ways, and for one another? While black/
object of the gaze in the Brother with No Suit is mul- queer visual, film, and performance artists, as
tiple and polymorphous—at once playful and dan- well as poets and writers—that is, nonacademic
gerous, and not only unzipped but also seemingly literary types and people who write porn, erotic,
ready and available. A trickster, the brother does not and romance novels and stories—have power-
necessarily answer back to the person in the photo, fully answered this query now nearly thirty years
or even the original poster. As in Man in Polyester since Mercer and Julien inquired, most academic
Suit, no head is shown, but following the convention scholars have steered clear of theorizing porn and
in dick-pic selfies, this is likely for privacy and semi- erotica, representing what Essex Hemphill theo-
anonymity. In effect, the missing head here is the rized as the “magical adhesion of deep open kisses
poser’s agential refusal of certain forms of gazing and warm seed that binds us and terrifies us.”5 Still
rather than the unseen artist’s dictate. As a respon- fewer studies critically engage the ways in which
dent of my larger project on uses and meanings of the Internet is currently transforming the modes
black/queer online interaction described to me his and speed (but not always the content) by which
own practice of carefully curating images of himself images and expressions of black sexuality are medi-
for the Internet: “They will see what I want them to ated. This essay is a small opening toward such a
see, when I want them to see it. . . . They will want project, part of my forthcoming book exploring the
me from the moment they see it.”2 Questions arise: constitution and practice of black/queer diaspora.
What does it feel like to be an object looking at an Here, I turn to visual images on the Internet—find-
object? Does authorship of the image or the action ing rich and contradictory material and an ethno-
of gazing make one a subject? Is the object no longer graphic archive of the everyday (self-)posing of
a fetish? What does it reveal? Who is the gazer in the black male sexuality among black men who have
context of the Internet? Finally, how should we draw sex with men. My object of investigation in this
the ethics of transnational porn-erotics? essay is an emerging and unrecognized form of
Currently, Internet-based technologies facilitate portraiture and narrative theorizing, drawn from
the circulation of a huge amount of professional my archival and ethnographic encounters with the
and amateur gay porn images, much of which is pornblog of a black gay Brazilian and a small cross
free and available to anyone with a computer or section of his subscribers, transnational networks
smartphone and adequate bandwidth. It is striking, of Facebook pages, and other photoblogs, where
however, that with the variety of genres, themes, black men visually curate, narrate, position, and
Allen Nka • 97
frame themselves and other black men for trans- either. . . . Don’t be confused: Racism doesn’t go better
national erotic legibility. with a big dick, or a hot pussy, or a royal lineage.7 (My
This engagement of “low” representations of emphasis)
black male (sex)uality impels a return to unan-
swered questions of black gay desire reflected in While we must keep in mind that Hemphill was
black/queer studies, including earlier theorization ostensibly speaking in a US context, the sites of
of “black men loving black men” and M. Jacqui racialized shame, cruelties of slavery, and ghettos
Alexander’s call for “an erotic that is fully bodied obtain throughout the Americas and reverberate,
and sexed, one that can take ample note of our many resonate, or refract in every corner of the globe
vulnerabilities.”6 We will briefly consider how erotic and the World Wide Web. Hemphill’s queries about
desire is bracketed, framed, reproduced, and re- what cyberspace would mean for black people was
presented (i.e., multiply reposted or reblogged) in prophetic in some ways. Moreover, it reflects his
the everyday archive of (self-)posed, framed, filmed, criticism of the photographic representation of
narrated, and displayed portrait and snapshot rep- black male bodies in the work of Mapplethorpe. He
resentations of black bodies, in what I call the black echoes the ambivalence of black British critics Isaac
gay pornutopia. What insights might we gain by Julien and Kobena Mercer, citing their admission
reading “low” globally widespread and circadian that “we want to look, but do not always find what
self-representation and self-referencing of black we want to see” (in Mapplethorpe’s work).8 This
bodies on the Internet? What are the qualitative conundrum owes to the predictable repertoire of
and affective differences between how black men images and orientations in what they call the “land-
are framed and how they frame themselves? What scape” of male/male pornographic fantasies that,
do close and ethnographically contextual readings following Bhabha, they hold betrays the colonial
about these objects convey about (black) (gay) fantasy of the white producers and the demand of
desire, subjectivity, and belonging? white consumers.9 Leaving the answer for us to take
In the historical moment at the dawning of up, Julien and Mercer ask (and, of course, Hemphill
cyberspace, poet and essayist Essex Hemphill famously quotes): “What do they say to our needs
averred at the 1995 Black Nations / Queer Nations and wants as black gay men?”10 Pushing this further
conference: today, what does consumption of images of other
black men—perhaps those Hemphill, Joseph Beam,
The texture of my hair and the color of my skin are and others imagined as mirror-image brothers—say
just two of the prerequisites for visibility and suspi- about our own fantasies, including those that might
cion. I am profoundly perplexed by this continuing be described as colonial, across the often brutally
adversity and the unnecessary loss of life that occurs uneven terrain of national, class, and age differ-
as a result of being seen. . . . I remain the same in ence? What do close contextual readings of these
the eyes of those who would fear and despise me . . images convey about black gay desire, subjectivity,
. I stand at the threshold of cyberspace and wonder, and belonging across difference? What are the qual-
is it possible that I am unwelcome here too. Will I itative and affective differences between how black
be allowed to construct a virtual reality that empow- men in the global South are framed (circulated and
ers me? Can invisible men see their own reflection? consumed) in the global North and how they frame
. . . As always, I am rewarded accordingly when I (circulate and consume) themselves?
fulfill racist fictions of my aberrant masculinity. Today we are in a better position to ask pre-
My primary public characteristics continue to be cisely what “confusions, contempts, dreads,” and
defined by dreads of me; myths about me; and plain possibilities accompany black/queer people around
old homegrown contempt. All of this confusion is cyberspace.
accompanying me into cyberspace. Every indignity Essex Hemphill asserts: “Don’t be confused:
and humiliation, every anger and suspicion. It is not Racism doesn’t go better with a big dick, or a
easy loving yourself as a Black person—a Black man hot pussy, or a royal lineage.”11 Still, a number of
living in America. It is not any easier for our sisters my respondents seem to have found measures of
Allen Nka • 99
her essay, yet I found this too late to incorporate in my analysis.
Please see Christina Elizabeth Sharpe, “Racialized Fantasies on
the Internet,” Signs 24, no. 4 (1999): 1089–96. For a book-length
treatment of this see Shaka McGlotten, Virtual Intimacies: Media,
Affect, and Queer Sociality (Albany: State University of New York
Press, 2013).
8 Julien and Mercer, “True Confessions.”
9 Ibid. See Homi K. Bhabha, “Of Mimicry and Man: The
Ambivalence of Colonial Discourse,” October 28 (1984): 125–33.
10 Julien and Mercer, “True Confessions,” 134.
11 Essex Hemphill speaking in Frilot’s Black Nations/Queer
Nations? documentary.
12 Chela Sandoval, Methodology of the Oppressed (Minneapolis:
University of Minnesota Press, 2000), 175.
13 Ibid., 134. My emphasis.
14 Essex Hemphill speaking in Frilot’s Black Nations / Queer
Nations? documentary.
15 Sandoval, Methodology of the Oppressed, 62. My emphasis.
16 Beam, In the Life.
17 Juana María Rodríguez, Sexual Futures, Queer Gestures, and
Other Latina Longings (New York: NYU Press, 2014).
Kimberli Gant
I
n Renée Cox’s 2004 photographic series Queen history and past art practices, tourism, and black
Nanny of the Maroons, the artist embodies the women’s labor. Though each of these ideas deserves
iconic Jamaican figure of Queen Nanny as “a its own essay, I will settle for briefly discussing how
tangible and accessible image and representation of I read these issues within a few of Cox’s work and
the sensual, confident, independent, empowered, what the potentials for further exploration can be.
sexually sophisticated and intelligent Black woman I begin by presenting a summation of the actual
representing the Caribbean.”1 Cox’s Nanny is a seventeenth-century figure of Queen Nanny and
multitude of complex identities, which the artist her continuing legacy into the twenty-first century.
touches upon in various tableaus over a series of Queen Nanny herself is an enigmatic figure. Her
fourteen black-and-white and color photographs. history is rather mysterious, since the majority of
However, what is more striking about Cox’s primary information known about her comes from
images is that within these beautiful images are Jamaican Maroon oral tradition or from biased
glimpses into much deeper conversations about the accounts by seventeenth-century British officials
ambiguous notions of masculinity and femininity, on their transactions between the Maroons. The
varying societal representations of black Caribbean Jamaican Maroons were communities of enslaved
female bodies, the artist’s strong knowledge of art Africans and local-born enslaved populations who
eighteenth-century British officer while holding a forces because they would not inherit family title
machete. The red color of the uniform was a distinc- and property. The paintings were a celebrated visual
tive feature of the British military, both in Europe symbol of the wealth and status of the painted figure
and abroad; thus the soldiers were nicknamed red- and a demonstration of him as a military hero.8 The
coats. The three-quarter formal pose of the figure background landscape became a staple in this genre
and landscape background references eighteenth- through the work of painters such as Sir Joshua
and nineteenth-century British military portrait Reynolds and Thomas Gainsborough.
painting, although Cox creates a subtle subversion. By placing her black body into the uniform Cox
The military portrait was initially only of aristo- co-opts the original meaning to place herself and
cratic second sons who had to choose the armed Nanny on the same level as the British aristocracy.
Notes
1 This term dates from 1593 and comes from the Spanish or
Portuguese word mulato, meaning “of mixed breed,” referring to
individuals of both African and European descent. The word is
“
Celeste-Marie Bernier I have developed a practice which is concerned
with social, political, and cultural issues, with
particular relation to history and contempo-
rary practice,” black British artist Barbara Walker
declares, summarizing that her “work touches on
class, racial identity, power and belonging.”1 As an
artist engaged in a prolific outpouring of paintings
and drawings over her decades-long career to date,
Birmingham-based Walker works across multiple
narrative series. She creates hard-hitting dramatic
tableaux in which she does powerful justice to the
psychological, physical, emotional, cultural, social,
and imaginative realities of lives as lived by black
women, men, and children, not only within twenti-
eth- and twenty-first-century Britain, but across the
African diaspora more generally.
Answering her own question “Where is the black
presence?” she works within the series format to
create self-reflexively experimental and politically
radical bodies of work in which she dramatizes
the repeatedly invisibilized and misrepresented
lives of black subjects. As an artist committed to
visual storytelling, she lays bare the importance
of working with narratives by explaining, “I tend
to work two or three years in a series . . . and
then I edit them,” admitting to the role played by
her own authorial presence. Over a twenty-year
period, Walker’s vast bodies of work include Private
Face (1998–2002), Louder Than Words (2006–9),
Show and Tell (2008–present), and Here and Now
(2012–present).2 Working with the formal and
thematic possibilities presented by painting and
Journal of Contemporary African Art • 38–39 • November 2016
122 • Nka DOI 10.1215/10757163-3641766 © 2016 by Nka Publications
Barbara Walker, Untitled, 2006. Digital mixed-media print, 81 x 106 cm. Courtesy the artist. © Barbara Walker. Photo: Gary Kirkham
Notes
This article is written in profound gratitude to the exceptional
generosity and inspirational kindness of Barbara Walker. I would
also like to extend my sincere and heartfelt thanks to Deborah
Willis and Cheryl Finley.
1 Barbara Walker, artist statement, june96.wordpress.com/.
2 Barbara Walker, interview with the author, Birmingham, UK,
September 2013.
3 Artist statement, Here and Now, june96.wordpress.com/.
4 Walker, interview by the author, September 2013.
C
an we take a few minutes to think about
Kerr Houston Hank Willis Thomas’s use of hand gestures
in his 2014 Goodman Gallery show? The
In itself a clenched fist is nothing and means nothing. show, titled History Doesn’t Laugh, was recently on
But we never perceive a clenched fist. We perceive a view (in slightly different permutations) in both
man who in a certain situation clenches his fist. Johannesburg and Cape Town. And, as Michael
Jean-Paul Sartre, Being and Nothingness Smith noted in a review in artthrob, it was conceived
quite emphatically for the South African venues: it
featured two dozen new works that were rooted in
apartheid-era visual culture.1 Print enlargements
of midcentury mail order advertisements from
True Love shrilly proclaimed the value of stretch
mark cream and weighted bracelets. A monumen-
tal reproduction of a Congress of South African
Trade Unions (COSATU) button in fiberglass com-
memorated the cause in a finish fetish idiom. And
several cast sculptures, made of a variety of metals,
gave details from iconic apartheid-era photographs
a three-dimensional reality. Even as the work thus
offered an extension of themes in Thomas’s earlier
oeuvre—the social construction and commodifica-
tion of the black male and an acute, critical use of
archival materials and popular visual culture—it
now had a distinctly South African cast.
Journal of Contemporary African Art • 38–39 • November 2016
134 • Nka DOI 10.1215/10757163-3641777 © 2016 by Nka Publications
Hank Willis Thomas. Raise Up, 2014. Bronze, 285 x 25 x 10 cm. Installation view of History Doesn’t Laugh exhibition, Goodman Gallery, Cape Town, South
Africa, 2014. Courtesy the artist and Jack Shainman Gallery, New York
Then, too, there were those gestures. Each of motifs, opting instead for a closed hand. The
the four photo-based pieces, for instance, centered magnified COSATU button, too, pictured the
on hands. Die Dompas Moet Brand! (The Passbook raised fists of workers. Finally, another button
Must Burn!) focused on the decisive, resolute hands (shown in Johannesburg but not Cape Town)
of protestors in Eli Weinberg’s photograph of pass- pictured four hands clenching the wrists of their
burning from the early 1950s. Raise Up emphasized partner—forming, in the process, a powerful
the uplifted arms and hands of miners undergoing square. History may not laugh, we gather, but it is
a medical inspection in a routine that was first conversant in the idiom of gesture.
captured and published by Ernest Cole. A Luta Indeed, it always has been—or, at least, the visual
Continua and Amandla, meanwhile, granted solid record of apartheid implies as much. Look through
form to the hands of demonstrators in a police van a copy of a magazine or book of photos from the era
following a 1992 protest that was photographed by and you’ll soon gain a sense of the expressive ubiquity
Catherine Ross. of hands. There are the remarkable photographs
The accent upon gesture was hardly limited from December 1956 of assembled onlookers giving
to the photo-based sculptures. On a nearby wall, a vigorous thumbs-up to the antiapartheid militants
Develop Striking Power, a C-print enlargement of as they are driven to trial. There are Miriam
a classified ad, offered a single, simple graphic: a Makeba’s hands, elegantly and provocatively pressed
clenched fist. The clenched fist was also on dis- against her thighs, on the cover of the June 1957
play in Victory Is Certain, a staff made of assegai issue of Drum. There’s Noel Watson’s memorable
wood that recalled, in form and materials, Zulu image from 1980 of a seventeen-year-old Thabo
examples but eschewed their conventional finial Sefatsa raising both hands in a V-shaped gesture of
Renée Green, Seen, 1990. Wooden platform, rubber, stamped ink, screen, motorized winking glasses, magnifying glass, spotlight, sound, 81.5 x 81.5 x 53.5 in.
Courtesy the artist and Free Agent Media
Say It Loud aims less at defining than personalizing Hoyt’s statement speaks to the ways people
blackness. He states: contradict and individualize social classifications.
Thus, he effectively collaborates with the speakers
I was born in London to an Afro-Jamaican father and in a way that reconstitutes this process as it mirrors
a white English mother in the late 1950s. . . . As a his past. The altar becomes an “imaginary island,”
hybrid, one learns to navigate the marginal seas of and the figure of the speaker “shape-shifts” as one
difference, to remain intact while floating between replaces the next. Throughout these changes, the
the two poles. . . . In effect, we were deconstructing work becomes an ongoing demonstration of the
race and class, inventing our own imaginary islands. performative dimension of blackness.
We, the disenfranchised, fragmented, and marginal- As Maurice Berger attests, “The ‘performative’
ized youth—the black, brown, and beige vanguard encompasses the broader range of human enact-
learning the ancient codes, speaking a new patois: ments and interactions—the performances of our
racialized shape-shifters, reinventing a new black everyday lives, the things we do to survive, to com-
identity.7 municate.”8 Accordingly, Hoyt’s personal statement,
Sheila Pree Bright, Untitled 12 (Suburbia), 2005–7. Chromogenic color print, 58 x 48 in. Courtesy the artist
“I
n the world through which I travel,
Renée Mussai I am endlessly creating myself,” the
revolutionary psychiatrist, philosopher,
and writer Frantz Fanon famously wrote in 1952.1
Fanon was a contemporary of James Barnor. His
Caribbean ode to self-invention is one that finds
a compelling resonance and beguiling echoes in
Barnor’s remarkable African journey and uncon-
ventional destiny. Although not immediately appar-
ent, underneath the surface lies something intrinsi-
cally revolutionary, something inherently transient
in the evolution of Barnor’s multifaceted practice:
something quietly rebellious, surprising, and won-
derfully different.
This something is reflected in Barnor’s images
of yoga practitioners, ballroom dancers, and black-
and-white minstrel performers in drag, and it also
manifests palpably in those intimate moments with
key architects of the independence movement in
colonial and newly postcolonial Accra, Ghana.
Within the space of a decade, a uniformed civil ser-
vant synonymous of a new generation of professional
Ghanaian women will exist beside a black Barbarella
Journal of Contemporary African Art • 38–39 • November 2016
152 • Nka DOI 10.1215/10757163-3641799 © 2016 by Nka Publications
James Barnor, Untitled #1, Drum cover girl Selby Thompson, Campbell-Drayton Studio, London, 1967. Courtesy Autograph ABP
in intergalactic silver go-go boots, pink mini, and Whether in Ghana or England, Barnor docu-
fantasy wig. Locked in a salute, one gazes respectfully mented cultures in transformation, new identities
outside the frame—toward progress, perhaps—while coming into being—the fragmented experience of
the other playfully engages the camera through her modernity and diaspora; the shaping of cosmopoli-
oppositional gaze. In other words, the emancipated tan societies and selves; and the changing represen-
respectability, industriousness, and upward mobility tation of blackness, desire, and beauty across time
of a female police academy graduate will encounter and space. His archive thus not only constitutes a
the sexual politics of Drum magazine in a Jamaican rare document of the black experience in postwar
bus-conductor-turned-amateur-fashion-model in that Britain during the Swinging Sixties, but also pro-
extraordinarily Fanonian flow that will become the vides an important frame of reference, overlapping
hallmark of Barnor’s practice. and suturing questions of the postcolonial in rela-
tion to diasporic perspectives in twentieth-century
Societies in Transition photography.
Born in 1929 in Accra, then the Gold Coast colony,
James Barnor began his career in photography typi- An Archival Encounter
cally, as an apprentice in a colonial portrait studio I first met James Barnor in 2009. We were intro-
of a relative, his cousin J. P. Dodoo. But in a unique duced by cultural historian, writer, and filmmaker
career spanning more than six decades, bridg- Nana Oforiatta Ayim, who had previously organized
ing continents and photographic genres, Barnor an exhibition of his work for the Black Cultural
would migrate into creating a singular portfolio Archives in London. Ayim’s introduction triggered
of street and studio portraiture depicting societies the beginning of an intensive phase of my work-
in transition: images of a burgeoning sub-Saharan ing together with Barnor, for which I am eternally
African nation moving toward independence and grateful to her.
a European capital city becoming a multicultural What I encountered on first entering Barnor’s
metropolis. In the process, Barnor would become, small apartment, situated in an elderly people’s resi-
uniquely perhaps, the only African studio photog- dence overlooking Brentford Lock, West London,
rapher to leave the continent before 1960 to study can only be described as a quintessential hidden-
and practice in Europe.2 archive story. Largely tucked away from public view
African Photography
Photography arrived in Africa soon after the inven-
tion of the medium in the 1840s. Yet it took over
150 years for African photography (as opposed
to anthropological inquiry) to appear in contem-
porary art discourse. The international art world
has since been fascinated with the work of artists
contemporaneous with James Barnor: Seydou Keïta
and Malick Sidibé in Bamako, Mali; J. D. ’Okhai
Ojeikere in Lagos, Nigeria; and Jean Depara in Drum Cover Girl Marie Hallowi, Rochester, Kent, 1966.
Kinshasa, now the Democratic Republic of Congo, Courtesy Autograph ABP
Ngaire Blankenberg
M
useums are important symbols of what
a society values. The proliferation of new
museums in the world is a wonderful
reflection of our changing values and perspectives.
Today we have so many museums telling so many
previously unheard stories—an African American
or Hispanic American history museum, museums
of immigration, centers for peace and tolerance, a
children’s story center, museums for performance
art, and even museums of heartbreak.1 It is some-
times easy to lose sight of the essential value of
museums, particularly when there is much to criti-
cize. They are public places—places where you can
explore treasures of the world, of your communities,
of past and present at your leisure, a change of pace
in a world increasingly dominated by screens and
brands. Museums are not only places that represent
the black body; they are also places black people and
others can actually choose to inhabit.
are very educated, earn a higher income than aver- many other Western countries, the younger you
age, and are white, even as the population in the are, the more likely you are to be of color. The more
West is undergoing a major demographic shift. likely you are also to never visit museums unless
In the United States less than one in ten museum you are forced to at school. There is a real possibility
visitors are from minority groups, even though that many museums may eventually age themselves
more than three out of ten people in the general into redundancy.
population are minorities.3 By 2050 the percentage The future of museums in the West lies in the
of what are now considered to be minorities in the multiracial millennials of today. But, as writer
United States is projected to make up roughly half Beth Spotswood acknowledged in her blog, Tourist
the national population. Will the demographics Trapped, “like most people, I wish I enjoyed muse-
of museum visitors keep pace? The signs are not ums more than I actually do.”6 Millennials don’t
encouraging. seem to be too impressed by museums.
College education is the single biggest predictor Let me summarize what you likely already know:
of museum attendance, but museums on the whole the millennials of today—you, your students, your
are doing a dismal job of attracting nonwhite children, your friends—have grown up in an era
college students and graduates, thereby missing an of ubiquitous technology. Millennials like to be
important opportunity to create a museumgoing in the know and can be through social media and
culture among a key segment of the population.4 24/7 access to information via the Internet, often
The National Endowment of the Arts Participation on smartphones. They are the fastest-growing age
Survey in 2012 found a 12 percent decline in arts segment for travel.7 They are connected, and social
attendance among college-educated Americans, relationships are very important; their choices of
and the median age of museum visitors has shot up where to go are heavily influenced by their peers.8
from thirty-six years to forty-three years in the last Millennials expect choice and the ability to cus-
twenty-five years.5 tomize an experience. They value being able to
If you live in the United States or Canada and interact and participate, and they lose interest when
O
Pamela Newkirk n September 8, 1906, Ota Benga, a boyish-
appearing young man said to be twenty-three
years old and a so-called African pygmy
from the Congo Free State, was first exhibited in
the Bronx Zoo Monkey House. The exhibit drew
record crowds to the zoo while stoking controversy
and attracting global attention. More than a century
later, accounts of the episode have been distorted by
omissions, half-truths, and outright deceptions. Not
only has Benga’s captor, the self-described American
explorer Samuel Verner, been widely depicted as his
friend and savior, but his true saviors has languished
in obscurity. In addition, while Benga’s bust remains
in storage at the American Museum of Natural
History, where he was temporarily housed, neither
that institution nor the Bronx Zoo has accurately
recorded Benga’s story in institutional accounts, nor
have they erected a plaque or other fitting tribute
to his memory. Worse yet, shame over the episode
has resulted in what one can only reasonably view
as subterfuge by those charged with recording
the history of the New York Zoological Society,
commonly called the Bronx Zoo.
In Gathering of Animals: An Unconventional
History of the New York Zoological Society, first pub-
lished in 1974, the society’s then curator emeritus
of publications leaves the matter of Benga’s exhibi-
tion vague, open to interpretation, or unknowable.
Blithely ignoring overwhelming evidence in the
zoo’s own archives, William Bridges wrote:
Notes
This article was adapted from my book Spectacle: The Astonishing
Life of Ota Benga (New York: Amistad, 2015).
Yemane I. Demissie
T
racing the short but singular and well-docu-
mented life of Prince Alemayehu of Ethiopia,
my research for a book and a film probes
the relationships of an African crown prince with
preeminent British political, military, and cultural
leaders on the eve of the European Scramble for
Africa.1
Born in 1861, Prince Alemayehu was the son of
the mid-nineteenth-century emperor Tewodros II.
In the latter part of his reign, endeavoring to thwart
the efforts of encroaching peripheral Ottoman
client states, Emperor Tewodros attempted to forge
diplomatic and military alliances with Britain,
France, Prussia, and Austria.2 When they ignored
his overtures, the emperor took umbrage at the
perceived lèse-majesté and arrested several British
government representatives and missionaries from
a few other European countries.3
His action provoked much fury and indigna-
tion among Europeans, prompting the press to
lampoon and demonize him in poems, articles,
and caricatures.4 When the emperor refused to
release the captives, the British government sent a
punitive expeditionary force in August 1867.5 With
Lieutenant-General Sir Robert Napier commanding
thirteen thousand Indian and British soldiers, the
force used forty-four trained elephants and forty
thousand other animals to scale the precipitous
Journal of Contemporary African Art • 38–39 • November 2016
174 • Nka DOI 10.1215/10757163-3641832 © 2016 by Nka Publications
Front and back of a carte de visite of Prince Alemayehu, taken at Regina House, Ryde, Isle of Wight, Summer 1868, by Jabez Hughes, photographer to Queen
Victoria, 2.85 x 4.027 in. Courtesy the author
Ethiopian highlands and storm the emperor’s for- bust soon after his November 1879 death at age
tress at Mekdela. Unwilling to face humiliation and eighteen.7
share the fate of his former captives, the emperor The principal cast of characters in this episto-
eluded the British force by committing suicide. lary wrangle includes Prince Alemayehu; Queen
The fate of his son, Prince Alemayehu, the sub- Victoria; Sir Stafford Northcote, the chancellor of
ject of this article and my future book and film, was the exchequer; John Throp, a sculptor and marble
very different. In an effort to avoid the risk of the mason based in Leeds; Lt. General Sir Henry
emperor’s Ethiopian foes exacting their revenge on Frederick Ponsonby, the queen’s private secretary;
his seven-year-old crown prince, his consort, the Francis John Williamson, the queen’s favorite
Empress Tiruwork Wube, on her deathbed, asked sculptor; and Professor Cyril Ransome, Prince
Napier to take her son out of the country.6 Alemayehu’s private tutor.
How Alemayehu left his homeland at age seven Immediately upon Alemayehu’s death in Leeds,
and what he then experienced in his all-too-brief Sir Stafford Northcote, as guardian ex officio,
life in Britain, India, and the Straits Settlements I telegraphed Ransome, the professor in whose home
shall examine elsewhere. For this article, I will focus Prince Alemayehu had died, to have photographs
on one of the concluding episodes of Alemayehu’s and a cast or death mask taken “which might
story: a tug-of-war over the creation of the prince’s serve, if thought desirable, for a bust.” Northcote
presumably made this request for the benefit of the triggered a fierce bureaucratic warfare between the
queen, who since Alemayehu’s arrival in Britain in private secretary of the era’s most powerful world
1868 had become a staunch and steadfast advocate leader and an ordinary provincial sculptor over the
of the young prince’s welfare. image of a dead African prince.
Ransome implemented the chancellor of the Three days shy from 1880, Ponsonby com-
exchequer’s instructions without delay and hired missioned Francis John Williamson, the sculptor
Throp to create a cast. Aspiring to capitalize on the favored by the queen, to make a bust of the prince.9
august patronage, Throp executed the cast promptly He charged Williamson with the collection of the
and of his own accord and within a month of Alemayehu cast from Ransome, assuming that it
Alemayehu’s death created a bust of the prince. was at the professor’s disposal.10
Not long after, Ransome examined Throp’s work Williamson agreed, requesting recent photo-
and contacted the queen’s private secretary, Sir graphs of Alemayehu and charging one hundred
Henry Frederick Ponsonby. In his December 19, guineas for the bust.11 Throp, however, resisted. The
1879, letter, Ransome informed Ponsonby that the sculptor informed Ransome that he had already
bust “is not good, being disfigured by a bad arrange- made the bust in plaster and that he proposed to
ment of the hair and by the modern dress in which make one in marble to exhibit at the upcoming
it is habited. The mask, however, is good and a good 1880 Royal Academy exhibition. If Throp yielded
bust might be made from it.”8 the cast to Williamson, he contended, “it would
For the six months that followed, Ransome’s destroy the value of his work.”12
ostensibly perfunctory assessment of Throp’s work Annoyed perhaps by Throp’s at once astute and
I
n 2010 I went to Rome on a fellowship to research who stare at my Ethiopian face might connect me
my second novel, set during the 1935 Fascist to those photographs distributed freely by a propa-
invasion of Ethiopia and the war and brief occu- ganda machine intent on depicting my people as
pation that followed. While there, I found that it was a savage, sexual spectacle in desperate need of the
impossible to escape the past. Everywhere plaques generous hand of Benito Mussolini and the Italian
and statues commemorate other eras: famous deaths people. The cobblestone streets change so easily to
and wars, territorial expansions and conquests. I rocky trails. I catch my breath when I see a face that
also felt a strange sensation that bodies, specifically looks like a mix of Italian and East African roots. I
East African bodies, were their own kinds of monu- want to pause in front of that person and stare, trace
ments and vessels of a still unnegotiated past in Italy. the feature that has crossed a shimmering sea, fol-
And, specifically, I began to see my own figure as a lowed the arch of a blue sky, and made the journey
carrier of a kind of history I didn’t want and I didn’t from village to city. I want to gently unfold the layers
fully understand. I wrote the following account after of time that shield that private moment when two
an encounter on the street one afternoon in Rome. countries met in the form of bodies and produced
a new type of history that present-day Italy still
■ ■ struggles to understand.
I want to know what it is I am looking at.
I have been in Rome, Italy, for the last six months I do not know sometimes how to remind myself
to research and write about Fascist Italy’s 1935 inva- of where I am. On those days when I am confident
sion and war with Ethiopia. My days are a constant that time has gone by, when I say that seven decades
struggle to shift my mind and heart into the place is long enough to push the disgust for Italy’s war
where my body exists: this day of this month in tactics behind me, when I tell myself that even my
2011. This is where you are, not there. I walk the grandfather—who lost a brother during this period,
slender path between majestic Roman palazzos and who remembered well the years of Italian occupa-
the poisoned, decimated villages that the Italians tion—did not seem to hate the colonizing nation,
left behind in Ethiopia. I am mindful that the soldati on those days, it seems, is when a hand reaches out
of whom I write once pointed their rifles at people in the middle of a busy sidewalk, a shop clerk smiles
who looked just like me, that I might be passing by in recognition: You are Ethiopian. Yes. I know that
their children and grandchildren, that the people face; my father was a soldier. My grandfather was
party venue, the Sea View Hotel, which uncannily a chocolate-colored self-portrait published in an
served as a residence for the African American edition highlighting topical issues that anticipated
author Richard Wright when he visited the city in the year’s upcoming US election. In the photograph,
the 1950s, an experience that resulted in his pub- text scrawled on the torso reads “My Nigga,” and
lishing Black Power about the nationalist revolution on my right arm is my birth date, “2/6/65.” I pose
in what was then the British Gold Coast colony.2 with handcuffs, inspired by the brutal station-
The Sea View Hotel is located in an area of the city house assault by police on Abner Louima in 1997
called Jamestown, about which I will say more later. while he was held in custody; the image conveys a
The party theme, “different, but not abnormal,” strong sense of angry passion. It is also suggestive
struck me as an apt characterization of the sense of of a Christlike figure and connotes a heightened
empowered subjectivity African gay people are fos- sense of anxiety around desire, death, and mortal-
tering among themselves in spite of the challenges ity. Layerings such as these continue to interest me
and contradictions they face every day. and have become more formally pronounced in my
Before traveling to Ghana much of my work since recent work.
the early 1990s consisted of portraiture and self- A fellowship at the American Academy in Rome
portraiture. In 2000 the New York Times Magazine that began in 2001 afforded me the opportunity to
commissioned the untitled work reproduced here, undertake photographic studies in public settings
Blow Up IV (Sevilla), 2006. Mixed media, dimensions variable. Courtesy the artist. © Lyle Ashton Harris
any individual element. This series represents a as alluding to the ambivalent colonial desire that it
new formal manifestation of many of the themes suggests.
that have engaged me over the years, characterized The commanding presence and visual vibrancy
by my directly confronting and thereby diffusing of this mixed-media piece draws viewers in. A
charged images that might otherwise threaten to closer encounter often leaves them disturbed,
subsume my subjectivity. compelling them to ask themselves questions
A central element of Blow Up IV (Sevilla) is an they might rather avoid. Entering into the piece’s
Adidas ad, individually titled Readymade (2006), layerings, looking closer and closer across surface
which was published in an Italian daily sports news- details (analogous to the classic Antonioni film
paper and features an unidentified brown-skinned Blow Up), what typically remains unspoken and
man who bears a striking resemblance to me. When invisible is revealed, opening up and out of the
I first encountered the ad in print, it strongly sug- space of the piece itself. Though initially inspired
gested itself as a focal point for the entire piece. The by my earlier experiences in Italy, I produced Blow
figure representing my double appears to be servic- Up in 2005 during my first year of residence in
ing (if you will) the French Algerian celebrity foot- Ghana. The work incorporates numerous elements
baller Zinedine Zidane; the pose bears an uncanny that index the materiality of that particular setting,
resemblance to Manet’s painting Olympia. As repro- including a rice sack printed with a photograph of
duced and appropriated in Blow Up IV (Sevilla), the the black stars of the Ghanaian national football
original newsprint was splattered with my semen, team set against the country’s flag, red-printed
a bodily intervention meant to mark it and make it Ghanaian funerary fabric, and numerous other
my own, troubling the privileged masculine rela- found objects, including portraits and various
tion and racial hierarchy implied in the ad as well photographic materials.
a leading Ghanaian newspaper, which reports in I encountered, this piece instantiates a uniquely
a front-page headline: “Four Homosexuals Jailed queer gaze—an essentially fearless act of reframing
for Two Years.” Another front-page clipping from through combining objects, commingling effects,
2005 is reflected in a yellow-framed mirror and seducing viewers confronted with their own reflec-
reads “Gays and Lesbians on Fire,” reflecting the tions, and compelling them not to merely look away.
hysterical media backlash that ensued in response The works I have described here strongly
to rumored plans for holding an international LGB resonate with my initial explorations of collage in
conference in the country. Being confronted with the mid-1990s, specifically with a body of work
such a reactionary news story soon after arriving in titled The Watering Hole (1996). This work consists
Ghana elicited in me a palpable sense of fear and of photographs framing a personal study—a
initially left me feeling desperate to find ways to collage on the walls of an interior—compiled of
work through it by engaging coping strategies of news clippings, sexy magazine ads, and my own
self-empowerment against such a seemingly hostile Post-it notes and photographs. Undertaken as an
homophobic cultural climate. As a distillation of exploration of the Dahmeresque, this work exposes
the complexities and degrees of negotiation that the labyrinthine logic of consumption by which
Elizabeth Colomba
B
eing of Martinique descent but born and is associated with the butterfly, and so forth.
raised in France has shaped and influenced Thus, skin color no longer dictates the story of
my perception of my self-identity. This dual the protagonist but transcends it. The viewer no
background has pushed me to explore the totality longer ponders status but rather representation,
of social experience and fuse my two worlds in iconography.
my work. While acknowledging the past, I wish to Reclaiming history and anchoring the spirit of
reshape the narratives and bend an association of the African diaspora by redefining its place is a
ideas so that a black individual in a period setting difficult and ambitious task that requires patience
is no longer synonymous with slave subservience and visual reappropriation. It could be attained
and, by extension, does not instill fear or mistrust. by resetting one’s mind and establishing a differ-
She becomes the center of her own tale and hastens ent visual landscape devoid of servile narrative.
it forward. By generating an environment for my subjects
Creating pieces that simulate Old Masters’ to inhabit a space that honors their presence and
techniques while incorporating Western themes place in and through culture and time allows me
implies a precontemporary creation, an egalitar- to redefine not only how black people have been
ian existence in a story from which the black body conditioned to exist, but also how black people
is painfully absent. When a work of art depicts a have been conditioned to reflect upon themselves.
figure (mythical, biblical, allegorical) the narra-
tive is identified with the help of pictorial codes. Elizabeth Colomba is a representational artist
Eros would be recognized by his arrows, Psyche living in New York City.
Journal of Contemporary African Art • 38–39 • November 2016
196 • Nka DOI 10.1215/10757163-3641865 © 2016 by Nka Publications
Elizabeth Colomba, The Ants, 2011. Oil on canvas, 24 x 18 in. Based on
a mythological theme of Psyche and Eros. Courtesy the artist. © Elizabeth
Colomba
Phillis, 2010. Oil on canvas, 24 x 30 in. Historical theme: Phillis Wheatley. Courtesy the artist. © Elizabeth Colomba
Jean-Ulrick Désert
F
rom the body as sign to the disembodiment helper. Reproductions of Manet’s Olympia of 1863
of signs, the work of Jean-Ulrick Désert, a and postcards of the Dutch black-faced Zwarte Piet
Haitian-born artist currently based in Berlin, contributed to the decor and content of the classes.
Germany, has often used the image of the body. The artist progressed in later years to using the
Most notably, in his earlier performative works bodies of his audience to perform new works such
such as Negerhosen2000, the public was allowed to as The Passion, where the spectator was invited to
submit portraits of the artist wearing skin-colored choose and model various elements of soccer-
lederhosen. This would later inspire the use of nearly hooligan fan costumes, denuded of color, national
lost images of nineteenth-century black Germans references, team, club, or corporate affiliations for a
rendered as cyanotypes in Prussian blue. permanent photographic record.
The artist has progressively distanced himself The artist acknowledges the trope that certain
from the use of his own body in his works whenever racialized bodies are perceived as magical, yet fig-
possible; therefore in his (The) White Man proj- ures like a self-exiled jazz-era beauty have come to
ect, he hired a white English-speaking man in the embody a diversity of meanings for Americans and
Netherlands to impersonate him in the art gallery. Europeans. Désert has initiated a series he calls The
There (the white) Jean-Ulrick Désert conducted free Goddess Projects, in which the image of Josephine
art classes to the public with an unnamed (black) Baker, the American/French activist and performer,
Journal of Contemporary African Art • 38–39 • November 2016
202 • Nka DOI 10.1215/10757163-3641876 © 2016 by Nka Publications
Jean-Ulrick Désert, Morgensglück, Good Morning Prussia series, 2009. Cyanotype photography from digitally collaged negatives, 31 x 48 cm. © Jean-Ulrick
Désert. Photo: Jean-Ulrick Désert
Secretum (I am very much in love w/u), 2014, Dak’Art 11, Dakar Biennale, Senegal, 2014. Glass, paper,
inks. © Jean-Ulrick Désert. Photo: Jean-Ulrick Désert
serves as the project’s visual leitmotif. It was first w/u). The African projects are a series of full-
deployed at the Havana Biennial as a large, folding, scale, redacted protest placards with velvet grips
stained-glass black Madonna in Shrine of the Divine from his BlackOut series and a set of jarred secrets
Negress No. 1. A later work, both abstract and literal, indicating on their clinical labels the abuse and
from the series The Goddess Constellations renders ravaging of LGBT Africans. The later Caribbean
Josephine Baker’s image onto seven hundred fifty project, Amour Colère Folie—A Temporary
silver-foil cameos, replicating the stars in the sky Monument to Resistance, is a seemingly makeshift
above Port-au-Prince, Haiti, at the time of the dev- monument in a public square of Martinique’s Fort
astating earthquake of January 12, 2010. de France. It is constructed of concentric crowd-
Désert’s art practice continues to articulate control barriers and thirty quick-response codes
the body, be it present or absent, including his containing voices of artists, activists, journalists,
two works presented at Martinique’s first bien- politicians, and poets.
nial (BIAC) in 2013 and at the eleventh Dakar
Biennale in 2014: Les battements des ailes des Jean-Ulrick Désert is a conceptual artist who was
papillons peuvent déclencher des tornades au tour born in Haiti and established his Berlin, Germany,
du monde and Secretum (I am very much in love studio practice in 2002.
Lewis Watts, Metro, Paris, 2013. Archival pigment print, 44 x 30 in., framed.
Courtesy the artist
Watts
Watts Nka • 211
212 • Nka Journal of Contemporary African Art • 38–39 • November 2016
Barbès Rochechouart, 2013. Archival pigment print, 44 x 30 in., framed. Courtesy the artist
Watts
Watts Nka • 213
Belleville, Paris, 2014. Archival pigment print, 44 x 30 in., framed. Courtesy the artist
Ménilmont, Paris, 2014. Archival pigment print, 30 x 44 in., framed. Courtesy the artist
220 • Nka
he had a crew of assistants, who,
among other things, helped expand his
signature-busy backdrops; his primary
painting activity subsequently has
focused on the figures, à la Western
“masters” across centuries, including
David. Although there may be some
irony in the fact that painterly detail
was an important aspect of Wiley’s
early acclaim a half century after
Warhol’s Factory, this development in
his practice has to be considered part
of his art—an extension of artist-
conceived, illusionistic imagery and
modes of production. Shaping up as a
survey of international hip-hop style,
World Stage has grounded the “new
republic” concept of the artist-titled
Brooklyn show. First stop, Beijing,
which resulted in portraits of local
club kids blended with Mao-era youth
posters and chinoiserie patterns. From
there, on to Africa (Dakar, Senegal,
and Lagos, Nigeria) and a series that
narrates, in condensed form, a post-
colonial, two-way African diaspora. In
a major example, Dogon Couple (2011),
two figures in African American–inspired
get-ups are posed as a West African
sculpture type that alludes to duality
Conspicuous Fraud Series #1 (Eminence), 2001. Oil on canvas, 72.5 x 72.5 in. Courtesy The Studio and gender codes against a backdrop of
Museum in Harlem. © Kehinde Wiley. Photo: Marc Bernier pan-African wax-print textile designs
popularized in contemporary art by
Nigerian British artist Yinka Shonibare.
bricolage he encountered on 125th throughout history and are arguably Twins and couples are recurrent in
Street while doing a residency at the intrinsic to the portrait genre; the much diasporic art as a reference to
Studio Museum in Harlem in 2001–2, criticism seems unduly personal, if their symbolic importance in many
led to another layer of content and not homophobic, here.6 The dynamic African societies, and they also appear
controversy in his oeuvre, namely, in that this brings to the oeuvre is elsewhere in Wiley’s oeuvre. Again,
his words “street casting.” Thus, male better addressed through structural the concept of a rainbow-coalition
strangers were invited to participate discourses like the artist-model tour, which has passed through Israel,
in portrait projects involving photo dyad and the artist-flaneur. Through India, Brazil, Jamaica, and Haiti so
sessions in poses collaboratively those frameworks, my reading of the far (as represented in the show), may
selected from art history books. None tack only enhances the content of seem both simplistic and extravagant;
from his first series of this type, affirmation and desire in Wiley’s art. however, the earnestness of the pursuit
Passing/Posing (c. 2002–3), is in Wiley pushed the homo-spectatorial and yield of exuberant imagery remains
this show, but several are on view in gaze forward explicitly in the Down compelling.
the museum’s permanent collection, series, which features sprawling, One gallery was given over to
a bonus of this venue. The earliest horizontal images of black men in Wiley’s recent foray into female sub-
large-scale painting in the show, art historical poses of heroic death. jects, with a number of paintings from
Conspicuous Fraud Series #1, Eminence A show-stopper is Femme piquée his 2012 series Economy of Grace. In
(2001), which depicts a solitary black par un serpent (2008), in which these, the previously self-fashioned
male surrounded by a smoky, curlicue the sharp edge of the low-slung sitters have given way to professional
form that may also be “growing” out jeans across the figure’s Jockeys is models bedecked by Givenchy designer
of his hair, serves to elucidate the centralized on the canvas and the Roberto Tisci, reflecting and revealing
roots (several puns intended) of his fluid gender switch-up from the (among other things) a shift in cre-
subsequent groove. source is amplified in the effusively ative milieu for Wiley. The diva couture
Some critics have called out the floral, wraparound patterning. and exaggerated fertility symbolism
street casting as manipulative and By the time Wiley embarked on his of densely foliaged backdrops con-
even predatory—charges that could most ambitious series to date, World jures futuristic Botticellian goddesses.
be directed at many famous artists Stage, begun c. 2007 and ongoing, Linked to this series in the center
Dogon Couple, 2008. Oil on canvas, 105 x 93 x 2.5 in., framed. Courtesy Kehinde Wiley and Sean Kelly, New York; Roberts and Tilton, Los Angeles;
Galerie Daniel Templon, Paris/Brussels; and Stephan Friedman, London. © Kehinde Wiley
222 • Nka
Femme piquée par un serpent, 2008. Oil on canvas, 102 x 300 in., framed. Courtesy Kehinde Wiley and Sean Kelly, New York; Roberts and Tilton, Los Angeles;
Galerie Daniel Templon, Paris/Brussels; and Stephan Friedman, London. © Kehinde Wiley
of the gallery was Bound (2014), a have better added this dimension to a 2 The reference to art star Takashi
colossal bronze of three female busts retrospective (notwithstanding logis- Murakami, who coined the term for his own
intertwined by towering braided and tics that may have precluded such pop-animé, is relevant.
adorned coifs; wrangled classicism, loans). 3 Roberta Smith, “Review: ‘Kehinde Wiley:
surrealism, and Afrocentrism; and Finally, two recent series develop A New Republic’ at the Brooklyn Museum,”
New York Times, February 19, 2015, www
myriad specific references from nine- the spiritual dimensions, with regard to
.nytimes.com/2015/02/20/arts/design
teenth-century orientalist allegory to black men especially, implied equally /review-kehinde-wiley-a-new-republic-at-the
artistic peers Alison Saar and Maria with the sensual in much of Wiley’s -brooklyn-museum.html?_r=0. Especially after
Campos-Pons. art: gold-leaf-backed “saint” portraits a large, traveling Rockwell show organized by
Bound is partly the outcome of adorned with delicate floral filigree, the Rockwell Museum and the High Museum
earlier sculptural experiments of b-boy typically overstated but undeniable in of Art stopped in 2002 at that bastion of the
Roman-type male busts, also on view shimmering surface appeal; and recent avant-garde, the Guggenheim, criticism began
to veer toward the emotional and metaphorical
in the show—somewhat more pre- stained-glass paintings (or paintings
aspects of his work; e.g., Arthur C. Danto, “Age
dictable but well compatible with produced in stained glass) of young of Innocence,” The Nation (January 7, 2002):
Wiley’s by now autonomous art think- men taking up pictorial positions of 47–50.
ing. Another new direction on display saints and clergymen. Blue-jean-toned 4 Whitney Museum of American Art, New
was the substitution of landscape stained glass is definitely cool, as York, November 10, 1994–March 5, 1995.
backgrounds for some of the large- are backlit brand logos and multira- 5 Among high-profile cases of the death of
scale portraits that did not match cial putti. Still, most engaging in the unarmed black men by police ongoing through
the course of the Wiley show are Michael
the comprehensive narrative-optical oeuvre so far in light of the Brooklyn Brown (2014, Ferguson, Missouri), Eric Garner
connection of the pattern-stamped show are the surface semiotics of the (2014, Staten Island, New York), and Freddie
work. In a group of intimate portraits simulated cloth-backed painted por- Gray (2015, Baltimore, Maryland).
after Renaissance precisionist Hans traits in their evocative constellation 6 For a summary see Michelle-Renee
Memling, however, the miniaturist of culture, class, gender, commod- Perkins, “All Is Fair in Love and Art Criticism?,”
landscapes behind the tattooed and ity, and slick joie de peintre—brightly International Review of African American
T-shirted (male) subjects made clear packaged for the masses. Art Plus, iraaa.museum.hamptonu.edu/page
/All-is-Fair-in-Love-and-Art-Criticism%3F
art sense meticulously appropriated. (accessed May 1, 2015).
Which brings us to a landscape drawn Jody B. Cutler is an art historian affil-
from a Rubens portrait of Philip II in a iated with St. John’s University in New
portrait of Michael Jackson, Equestrian York City.
Portrait of King Philip II (2009), begun
before and completed after Jackson’s
Notes
death. In this context, the represented A New Republic is also on view at the Virginia
space is peculiarly vacuous, apropos Museum of Fine Arts, June 11–September 5,
of the wispy-maned figure and steed 2016.
in their matching, kitschy costumes, 1 In fact, the “shiny” aspect of Wiley’s
recalling the tragi-camp late paintings painting is analyzed in depth in Krista
of Giorgio DiChirico. A number of more Thompson, “The Sound of Light: Reflections
resolved paintings of celebrities by on Art History in the Visual Culture of Hip
Hop,” Art Bulletin 91, no. 4 (December 2009):
Wiley have been exhibited and publi- 481–505.
cized through these years that would
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