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Femininity isn’t femme
Appearance and the contradictory
space of queer femme belonging
Hannah McCann and Gemma Killen
Liberating femininity from its history in our bodies and communities is easier
said than done and we are used to being misread and unseen.
(Dahl 2008, p. 22)
Introduction
Historically, the term ‘femme’ referred to an identity that emerged within the
1950s lesbian bar scene in the USA and UK, where feminine-presenting women
would often be seen paired up with ‘butch’ masculine-presenting female partners
(Dahl 2010). However, since the 1990s femme has become untethered from this
pairing with butch, with femme communities emerging particularly in the USA,
Australia and in some countries in Europe. Though the ways in which femmes
define femme identity varies, as femme ethnographer Ulrika Dahl has identified:
‘feminine gender expressions and the politics of visibility and femininity are
central to their body politic’ (2014, p. 607). The femme attachment to feminine
aesthetics has complicated their relationship to LGBTIQ communities and to
the politics of queer identity. In contrast to lesbians who eschew normative
femininity, and are thereby visible as queer and labelled as ‘mannish’, femmes
often continue to embody the femininity expected of them as women. This
superficially normative femininity has produced tensions in relation to not only
femme belonging in queer communities but also in terms of who can belong in
the category ‘femme’.
Invisibility is a central theme in discussions of femme identity. The lack of
recognition of femme as queer within both LGBTIQ and non-LGBTIQ spaces
is frequently cited as one of the reasons femmes need organised communities of
their own (Brushwood Rose and Camilleri 2002, Volcano and Dahl 2008).
While butch/femme identities were central to the lesbian bar scene in the 1940s
and 1950s, subsequent eras of feminism – particularly a lesbian feminism hostile
136 Hannah McCann and Gemma Killen
emerges from attempts to define femme. The aim of this chapter is to explore the
ways in which belonging is constituted in queer femme communities. Here we
focus on the contrast between a utopian imaginary of femme articulations and
the lived reality of queer feminine identity. As scholars working on queer femme
identity who identify as queer femme ourselves, we feel the pull of the desire to
belong within queer communities on an intimate level. However, we have been
troubled by a certain form of femme distancing from femininity that we have
come across in our recent research efforts, which seems antithetical to some of
the stated values and aims of the femme community. Belonging is often shaped
through exclusion, and the case femme demonstrates a form of this logic, struc-
tured around distinctions between different forms of femininity.
Rather than imagining it as a fixed, either/or state, we approach belonging as
‘a dynamic process’ that centres on the negotiation of emotional attachments
and the political and social implications of those attachments (Yuval-Davis
2006, p. 197). That is, belonging is about personal feelings of solidarity and of
being at home, but is also an integral part of producing socio-political hier-
archies that are always being contested. Therefore, belonging is best articulated
in moments of precarity, when the feeling threatens to be lost. As Elspeth
Probyn observes, ‘while [belonging] may make one think of arriving, it also
always carries the scent of departure – it marks the interstices of being and
going’ (1995, p. 2). It is precisely these interstices that we are interested in, and
the contradictions that arise in the marking of a binary space of the femme/not-
femme.
We begin by outlining the issue of femme belonging as represented in the
femme literature, where exclusion is coded as the problem of ‘invisibility’. We
then draw on two empirical studies to demonstrate the way belonging and
identity are understood and experienced by contemporary femmes. The first
study we discuss is a digital ethnography of popular queer women’s website
Autostraddle.com carried out by the second author. The second study is
interview-based research of Australian femmes carried out by the first author. In
both cases, we focus on the discursive constitution of femme identity and its
separation of the femme femininity from the realm of heterosexual femininity,
the former being constructed as willfully chosen, the latter as unknowing and
disempowering.
We explore the role of this digital community in making sense of queer fem-
inine aesthetics and identities, and the potential for online spaces to articulate a
utopian imagining of femme. Our analysis of Killen’s findings looks at this consti-
tution of ‘what femme could be’ even as it is spoken as ‘what femme is’. We then
turn to interviews conducted by the first author in 2013 with 12 Australian
femme-identifying participants, which unpacks the lived experiences of femme
belonging in relation to LGBTIQ and non-LGBTIQ spaces. Our analysis of this
discussion reveals that in the face of a desire for femme boundaries to remain
open, femmes often discuss their identity as willfully chosen and as sitting in con-
trast to heterosexual femininity that is perceived (by femmes) as disempowered.
138 Hannah McCann and Gemma Killen
combat boots’. She conjures a very specific image of femininity here, one that is
joyful in its excess and not at all aligned with heteronormativity or even with
notions of how heterosexual women engaged in femininity. As the first author
has argued, ‘Excessive femininity is troubling because it blurs boundaries, is
unruly, and difficult to contain’ (McCann 2015, p. 249). Overt markers of femi-
ninity helped these women to recognise one another in the offline world and
they became something enjoyable to commune over online.
The taking and sharing of selfies also emerged in the digital ethnography of
Autostraddle as a central practice of femme identity and community building.
Selfies enable femmes to make themselves visible as members of the queer com-
munity. The #femmelesbian tag on Instagram has more than 40,000 posts
attached. Indeed, the literature on selfie practices among minority groups,
including people of colour and queer and trans people, suggests that sharing
selfies online is also a key way in which people make themselves visible to the
wider community (Pham 2015).
As a part of the digital ethnograhy of Autostraddle, members of a site-related
Facebook group were asked about their motivation for taking and sharing selfies.
Many of the responses mentioned the desire to contribute to conversations
about queer visibility and to document experiments with gender presentation.
Maryanne explicitly claimed selfies as a femme practice: ‘As a femme and a
chronically ill/disabled person, selfies, makeup, all femme rituals really are
vitally important parts of my queer identity’. They also noted that selfies were
particularly important for them when confined to home due to illness. Selfies,
and all of the associated social media, allowed them to continue to feel as
though they belonged to a specifically queer community as well as allowing
them to challenge perceptions of chronic illness and gender identity.
These conversations show that the online space offers femmes an oppor-
tunity to negotiate and reconfigure their position within the LGBTIQ and
broader communities without relying solely on specific aesthetic cues. Here the
issue of femme invisibility is rendered somewhat moot, as the very presence of
posting images or having discussions online ‘as a femme’ marks femme as intelli-
gible. This marking negates the need for others to ‘read’ for signs of queerness
and allows an upfront and immediate expression of identity. Regular participa-
tion in online spaces that are specifically queer as well as open discussion about
their sexuality and identity produces a form of visibility that is not completely
possible in everyday offline life.
Given the well-versed problem of femme invisibility, the visibility offered in
these online discussions and spaces marks them as potentially utopic spaces for
femmes. Here, femmes can, seemingly without bodily limitations, discuss,
explore and wax poetic about what femme could be. This utopic imaginary
centres on intimacy and connection, but also on self-expression unhindered by
social expectations. The online arena is one in which the utopian ideal of
femme-ness as open, unbound and universally accepting, can be articulated and
explored, even if that ideal is not completely realisable in day-to-day life.
Femininity isn’t femme 141
Despite this ‘opening up’ of femme potential in online spaces there are still
contentious discussions about who can lay claim to the identity. In the ‘Round-
table’ article, contributors were asked about the expansion of the femme com-
munity to include those who do not identify as queer women. Most were critical
of the idea that the femme identity should be available only particular people,
namely women, can identify as femme. Aja, for example, writes: ‘I find that kind
of restriction on ‘femme’ to be abhorrent and willfully cruel’. Similarly, Erin
notes: ‘Everyone is becoming so indecipherable that the inclination to label
yourself or someone else is pointless. I think it adds a richness to the femme
identity, really, that we’re more complex than a separatist identity’. Instead of
segregation and labels, the writer argues for more inclusion within the femme
community – for trans women, for men and for non-binary people. Though the
community seems to be moving in this inclusive or welcoming direction, Bryn
writes, ‘In my experience, many cis women of all ages feel that my identity as a
non-binary femme somehow invalidates theirs’, suggesting that there are still
some boundaries within the community that are sharply felt.
While in online spaces such as Autostraddle there is increasing acceptance of
non-female queer people into the folds of femme, there is resistance to non-
queer identifying people adopting the label. In the ‘Roundtable’, Cecelia writes
about the negative effects of the increasing popularity of femme aesthetics
within mainstream culture. In the first mention of invisibility in the article, she
argues that by adopting an aesthetic that might otherwise have been clearly read
as queer, heterosexual women promote femme invisibility. Similarly, Alaina
writes, referring to straight, white women: ‘It’s like, they steal our aesthetic, they
steal our identities, and they steal our ideologies … but they water them down’.
According to this criticism, femme qualities might be attractive to straight
women, but because they engage with queer styles with a seeming disregard for
their historical basis, their practices are understood as both mimicry and theft.
Femmes online imagine femme in utopian terms: in this context, it is
described as an expansive and unconstrained identity, yet one that is clearly
marked off from heterosexuality. For these femmes, femme exists as a utopian
imaginary, as much as an identity marker, a way of forging community and con-
necting with queer others. Websites such as Autostraddle offer a sanctuary and
place of belonging for queer women, where they do not have to rely on aesthetic
codes and cues to find one another or participate in community. Social media
also enables femmes queer visibility. However, the celebration of femme online
spaces as open and inclusive co-exists with the production and policing of
boundaries. Non-queer women are not permitted access to the bonds and sense
of belonging of femme identity, indeed their encroachment is seen as a form of
illegitimate appropriation. As we draw out in the remainder of this chapter, we
need to think carefully and critically about why drawing such lines in the sand
is so important to the meaning of femme-ness, and what kinds of belongings and
community are being limited through such an approach to identity.
142 Hannah McCann and Gemma Killen
Conclusion
Analysis of femme belonging in both online and offline spaces reveals conun-
drums for femme queer identity. In both spaces, there are contradictions inher-
ent in attempts to produce and enact a sense of belonging that relies on
particular forms of gender presentation and yet also ideals of openness, inclusiv-
ity and self-definition. Femme belonging relies on a specific kind of exclusion –
maintaining the queer, excluding the straight – that may inadvertently cement
what appears to be ‘queer enough’, thereby undermining the potential to see
feminine presentation as queer in the first instance.
By looking at how femme belonging might be engendered in a way that pro-
motes solidarity rather than an individual focus, perhaps we might overcome
some of the contradictions of the exclusivity of femme. Here, the common
ground between LGBTIQ and non-LGBTIQ identifications and experiences of
gendered embodiment might be discussed and unpacked, to make room for
rethinking femininity broadly. While this might feel like dangerous or difficult
ground for many femmes, given that this might risk diluting difference in favour
of sameness, it also offers the possibility of uncovering the potential queerness of
femininity that does not rely on unstable and problematic notions of willfulness
alone. For example, one might look to the shared experiences of enjoying par-
ticular surface presentations, and experimenting with makeup, hairstyles,
fashion and so forth, that might exist for femme and non-femme identifying
people alike. For many femmes, being read as ‘straight’ feels marginalising
because it erases their queerness, however another tactic might be to extend
queerness rather than confine it to ever-smaller spaces. In other words, rather
than suggesting that the queerness of the femme ought to be questioned (an
idea that is unfortunately reproduced by femme norms and ideas of what is
‘queer enough’), perhaps we ought to start questioning the straightness of the
non-femme. Here we might find space for belonging together through shared
material experiences of embodiment, presentation, style and affects, and extend
queerness forth in ways that make room rather than foreclose possibility.
The existing femme criticism of ‘straight’ femininity marks an ever-present
return to the aesthetic when thinking through the meaningfulness of femme
identification. The problem here is that a denigration of particular styles of fem-
ininity arises in the production of femme. That is, in claiming femme, one is
also pronouncing a not-femme, whose femininity is complicit rather than
willful. The question that emerges in each of these cases is whether the con-
struction and enactment of femme belonging relies on exclusion and how we
might best deal with that exclusion. Femmes in each of our studies expressed
desire for a more inclusive community, to extend the realms of belonging, but
146 Hannah McCann and Gemma Killen
consistently draw the line at welcoming the heterosexual woman into the fold.
Femmes then, seemingly reside in that complicated and precarious space
between femininity and heteronormativity, between willfulness and complicity.
In order to answer a specific ‘yearning’ to belong (Probyn 1996, p. 19), it is
imperative that they continue to define and negotiate the boundaries between
these terms. Identifying as a femme means living in the contradiction, caught
within and between the desire for belonging and the need for exclusion. We
should be generous to these desires and the emotional investments associated
with femme identities and recognise the attachments that such identifications
produce, but perhaps we also need to be critical of the role of boundary work
and exclusion in producing belonging.
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