Professional Documents
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Elysian/Brian Beitel 7
Assembly:
8 Elysian/Brian Beitel
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9 10
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Octaflor/Christiane Bettens 13
Unfold all
14 15 16
Result
Result
17 18
8X
14 Octaflor/Christiane Bettens
Crown-Vase/Etai Bokea 15
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18 Skateboard/Steven Casey
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2
1
5
6
10
7
9
Precrease
Return to step 9
11
8
Repeat 9-10
1
30 Taiwan Dog/Wei Lin Chen
21 22
18
17
16
15
Return to
step 14
Repeat 12-15
12
13 14
2
Taiwan Dog/Wei Lin Chen 31
27
29
28
30
33
34
31
Repeat 19-30
35
32
49
47
48
Return to
step 46
44
43 42 41
40
36
37 38 39
4
Taiwan Dog/Wei Lin Chen 33
55
56
57
58
Double
rabbit ear
59
65 64
60
Model completed.
63
61
62
Dinosaur/Matthieu Chicouène 35
Crawford is a true luminary in the history of origami who 40 years ago was creating amazing color-change works such as her Unicorn, Full-Rigged Ship and Baby
Grand Piano. Most of the best of her work was published in the later books of Robert Harbin yet this model was never reproduced or published. As curator of
her collection of work I took on the task 15 years ago of making sure that her work was not lost to history and this was one of the first models I undertook to restore.
Unfortunately, it turned out to be a massive challenge and was the first (and only, so far) model in her catalog to stump me. Working on it off and on the past 5
years I remained stumped over the proportions of the lower petals. It was not until the advent of social-media/zoom that I was able to reach out to the global
origami hive-mind and find the answer. So here, published for the first time is what I consider to be Crawford’s true magn
magnum-opus,
um-opus, her color-change orchid.
So why, if this model isis so amazing, was it never published? Answer – BECAUSE IT’S REALLY CHALLENGING! Both to diagram and to fold, even with these
enhanced instructions. For that reason, to help optimize the chance for success for all folders who attempt it, in these diagrams I’ve utilized a LOT more text descrip-
descrip
tion than I usually do. I’ve also created photo-step folds, alte
alternate
rnate detail paths in the diagrams and a more liberal finish, honoring the original design of the work.
So it ain’t easy, however it’s not hard, just odd and with repeat foldings the unusual sequences become far straight-forward. As with other Crawford models, after
folding it multiple times the whole process makes much more sense and is eas easyy to execute.
For first a
attempts
ttempts I recommend folding from a large square of Japanese or American foil – even multiple sheets taped together. Complex / a 30” sheet produces
a model ~12” wide with ~3” column.
Fold and unfold Fold into blintzed-preliminary base Reverse fold ONLY the top two flaps.
Flip the model over and squash fold the two remaining flaps Tuck the flap underneath - important!
36 Orchid/Patricia Crawford
Inside
Inside
flap on a given side before doing the 5
4 4
reverse folds; 3) work from bottom to top 3
rather than top to bottom; 4) carefully line 3
2 2
up with the center line as you go. 1
1
Bottom
Bottom
Now we will spread-squash the middle three points on each side and fold the resultant flattened area flat by pleat-sinking the
paper as we go. This can be relatively challenging as most of the creases for the refolding are not yet in place and will have to
be stated by hand as you go. To execute pinch the top 3 layers with one hand and anchor the bottom 3 with your other hand
(indicated by circles) so that the middle 3 points remain free — then pull upward flattening out the 3 points. Don’t crease or
flatten out the lower portion, just open up as needed to execute the stretch. To fold back up you will have to lay in the creases
in place by hand matching the map, as indicated in the 3d diagram. For extra help, photo step-folds and additional resources
are available at creatingorigami.com/diagrams/orchid.html.
B 1
3
A
A
C
B
B
D
C
C
E
D
D
E
E
3d side view showing the creases to incorporate while flattening
it back down. To flatten the model you basically have to pleat
the model in three directions laying in the missing creases as
needed. In the diagram the colored lines are the ones that will Stretched and flattened flap – carefully note the pattern of
be added by hand – execute them in order as indicated 1, 2, 3 creases and number. If you used the correct points the flap
pinching/pleating as you go. The remaining creases (in black) should be centred between the remaining points. It is
are already there and will incorporate naturally as you flatten possible to use the wrong points which will result in problems
things out. Feel free to check out the photo step-folds posted on later in the model when folding the lower petals down into
creatingorigami.com for extra clarity on this sequence. place and thinning them.
Orchid/Patricia Crawford 37
Closed sink the two large points being careful as you go,
the paper can easily split at the main points on this step.
Additional photo step-folds on this sequence are
available online and in the Appendix. Clean up / bone
fold the creases on the other side afterward,. Clean up /
bone fold the creases on the other side afterward,
38 Orchid/Patricia Crawford
Now the real fun starts with the 2nd of three very unusual folds in this model.... reverse fold as far down as the paper will
allow. If the flap does not come down all the way then it’s likely you got the wrong points back on the spread-squash /
pleating sequence. Once the reverse fold is completed, note that the horizontal crease is not truly horizontal, then perform
a wrap of the entire structure by pulling out the hidden paper, opening it out and refolding on the same creases with the
white layer outside. This is not quite as tricky as it seems but may take a few attempts to master. Two paths are shown
here in the diagrams: a detailed one below and more concise one above, just follow the arrows of choice. Additional help
is available in the photo step-folds online at creatingorigami.com/diagrams/orchid.html.
Interim steps for the above sequence being shown here. Carefully unfold the paper and fold back up on existing creases so
that the white area is now outside and the colored hidden inside. Note that there is a little jog in the direction of the main
mountain fold. Note also that you will need to roll the paper at the tips as you fold to get everything to settle into place.
Orchid/Patricia Crawford 39
Adding precreases for the coming crimps, fold the flap left, lining up the crease with the hidden
layers inside. The diagonal crease on top will line up with the center of the model, but the back
of the flap does not have a crease so it’s not much help. These folds will be a little messy due to
all the layers, but don’t worry as you’ll be able to clean it all up in the subsequent steps.
Unfold and crimp on the creases cleaning up any previous messiness that happened in the previous steps. Then, carefully
fold the large, thick flap upward and open up the side petals with two squash folds. The internal, colored flap goes to the
top so you have a double layer at the top. This step is not shown in photo step-folds but looking at the original Alice Grey
diagrams (in the Appendix/online) may be helpful (or not). At this point we really start to sculpt the model and the folder
may choose to adjust things to their own taste moving forward, for example the location of this fold can be adjusted higher
or lower to affect resulting flowers overall proportions and feel.
40 Orchid/Patricia Crawford
3d view... gently pull out the very large hidden flap which will be used to
create the stamen. Note that the bottom of the illustration is slightly Unusual operation but not
distorted to make the internal structure a bit clearer complicated. It is basically
two squash folds to open up
the color layer for the stamen
Orchid/Patricia Crawford 41
I first saw Patricia Crawford’s unpublished origami orchid in 1978 during my first visit to Lillian Oppenheimer’s Origami Center of
America at 71 West 11th Street in New York City. "What took you so long?" Lillian said. She wondered how someone so passionate
about origami had not come to visit sooner. She led me down the hall into her apartment, and it was a Wizard of OZ moment, New
York’s grimy gray changed miraculously into the colorful world of origami: the bright papers, cheerful books, and wondrous origami
models that she had folded or collected from all over the world.
Lillian spoke of her experiences getting to know the many origami artists who had come to visit, and of all them, none were dearer
than Patricia Crawford. “You can count the number of notable women origami designers on one hand; Patricia is on par with the
best of them!” Handing a shoebox to me, she invited me to have a look inside. “These are some of Patricia’s models; some are
unpublished.” There was a grand piano, a bud vase with roses on-stem, a log with a squirrel, a ship with tall color-changed sails,
and there was a Cattleya orchid. Most of the models were folded from colorful, thin foil paper, a popular origami choice at the time,
and nearly a necessity for folding complex models.
I marveled at them all, but the orchid impressed me the most. It was folded from a purplish foil and included a full, showy lip. I had
designed some origami orchids, but I resorted to a 1:2 rectangle to achieve the distinctive lip of a Cattleya while including all of the
remaining petals and sepals. Doing so from an uncut square had eluded me. Confronted with Patricia’s solution, I just had to learn
it. Then Lillian broke my spirit:—“There are no diagrams.”
Patricia’s orchid was inspiration enough for me to revisit my approach. When I was finally successful, I named that for my sister, “An
Orchid Susie”. Since I had only seen Patricia’s model once, and with no photos for reference, I never knew if my orchid folded from
a square was similar, or in any way close to Patricia’s method. Now, thanks to J. C. Nolan’s efforts, we may all see the secret behind
the curtain and bring back this landmark in origami design, enhancing Ms. Crawford’s wonderful legacy.
—Michael G. LaFosse
42 Orchid/Patricia Crawford
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Máscara de carnaval
Autor: Roger García
Diagramas: Ramon Thomas
3
4
5
6
12 11 10
7 8 9
21 20 19
Repetir en las
tres puntas.
22 23 24
Repetir 20 y 21
en las 3 puntas.
29
28
Bee/Ben Goldberger 77
78 Bee/Ben Goldberger
15. Fold and unfold. 16. Change the last fold into
a mountain fold;
turn the model over.
Bee/Ben Goldberger 79
18. Fold the flaps edge to 19. Turn the model over.
the middle line, along
existing lines.
80 Bee/Ben Goldberger
Bee/Ben Goldberger 81
Gnatcatcher, 2021
Joseph Hwang
1 2
4
3
82 Gnatcatcher/Joseph Hwang
7 8
9 10
Gnatcatcher/Joseph Hwang 83
14
13
Repeat steps 4 to 12
on the left side.
15 16
84 Gnatcatcher/Joseph Hwang
Repeat step 17
on the left side.
19 20
21 22
Gnatcatcher/Joseph Hwang 85
26
25
28
27
86 Gnatcatcher/Joseph Hwang
31 32
34
33
Gnatcatcher/Joseph Hwang 87
37 38
39 40
30°
88 Gnatcatcher/Joseph Hwang
Repeat behind.
43 44
45 46
Gnatcatcher/Joseph Hwang 89
Unwrap.
49 50
Repeat steps 44
to 48 behind.
Reverse fold.
51 52
90 Gnatcatcher/Joseph Hwang
55 56
57 58
Repeat steps 50
to 56 behind.
Gnatcatcher/Joseph Hwang 91
30°
Repeat steps 58
and 59 behind.
61 62
63 64
Repeat steps 61
to 63 behind.
92 Gnatcatcher/Joseph Hwang
67 68
69 70
Crimp asymmetrically,
two layers on one side
and one on the other.
Gnatcatcher/Joseph Hwang 93
73 74
Open sink.
75 76
94 Gnatcatcher/Joseph Hwang
Unwrap.
79 80
81 82
Repeat steps 74
and 81 behind.
Gnatcatcher/Joseph Hwang 95
85 86
87 88
Repeat steps 86
and 87 behind.
96 Gnatcatcher/Joseph Hwang
91 92
93
Gnatcatcher completed.
Gnatcatcher/Joseph Hwang 97
1 2
3
1
2
4 2
5
Dividir en
tercios.
6 Desplegar.
Desplegar ligeramente
10 para poder colapsar.
9b
9a
9
8
7a
Colapsar.
Desplegar.
14 15
No queda plano.
16
17
17a
17c
17b
Introducir el dedo
para colapsar.
23
21
22
20
Hundido abierto
Destrabar el papel
de la pata trasera.
18
Hundido cerrado
19
Pasar la capa
hacia delante.
Colapsar.
28
29
Revertir el papel
para cambiar el color
de las orejas.
Sheep/Kanoko9 103
1. Precrease along the diagonals 2. Precrease along the angle 3. Precrease starting from the
with mountain folds. bisector. dotted intersection.
4. Rabbit ear the bottom corner. 5. Bring the side corners to the top 6. Precrease along the angle
and flatten. bisectors.
7. Reverse fold the sides. 8. Reverse fold the rear flaps. 9. Swing over a layer at each side.
13. Mountain fold the rear flap to 14. Precrease along the angle 15. Valley fold through the dotted
match the front flap. bisector. intersection.
16. Mountain fold the rear flap to 17. Reverse fold about 1/3 of the 18. Mountain fold the rear flap to
match the front flap. indicated height. match the front flap.
22. Precrease through the dotted 23. Lightly precrease to the dotted 24. Lightly precrease the top
points. intersection. section, noting the dotted
intersection.
25. Rabbit ear the top point. 26. Valley fold the sides to the 27. Squash fold the flap down.
center.
31. Turn over. 32. Valley fold down, aligning with 33. Precrease by bringing the edge
the folded edge below. to the center and unfolding.
34. Precrease the side section in 35. Valley fold along the angle 36. Wrap the edge into the
half. bisector. indicated pocket.
37. Swing over the center flap. 38. Repeat steps 33-36 in mirror 39. Spread open the center flap,
image. flattening its bottom and
rounding it out.
40. Spread apart the sides while 41. Tuck the flap into the pocket, 42. Completed 7HDSRW
flattening out the bottom. and push the joined flap down. ©2018 Marc Kirschenbaum
This will allow the sides to slope.
扑腾小鸟
设计:空想
绘图:小柠檬
设计时间:2020/9/23
1. 2. 3.
45°
留下折痕 留下折痕
沿箭头方向聚拢
4. 5. 6.
7. 8. 9.
向上谷折 峰折 峰折
31. 32 33.
沿折痕把角拉下并合拢 峰折 翻开最上面一层
翻转到正面 谷折 打开
谷折 打开回到上一步 另一侧同样留下折痕
留下折痕 留下折痕 谷折
调整细节 调整翅膀角度
完成
Use two same-size squares. A 15 cm square will produce a set of tulip leaves approximately 20 cm tall.
Use this leaf base as a support for “A Tulip for Betty” from the following page.
1 2 3 4
x2
Tab 8
7
5 6
9 10 11
Tulip Leaf Base with a paper
stem and a “Tulip for Betty.”
1 2
4
6
Make a stem from
a long rectangle
5
Paste
along the ..then roll
into a stick. Apply paste
edge...
to the top and
bottom ends,
then assemble.
Start with a large square, cut off a 1/3 strip and then the corner from the remainder
Scrap
Coat Head
COAT
B
AB
2/3rds
1. White side up. 2. Valley fold to the centre. 3. Mountain fold behind.
Precrease point.
12. Unfold back. 13. Collapse into a 14. Pleat into thirds. 15. Unfold.
waterbomb formation. (The top crease is
already existing)
20. Precrease. Next 21. Valley the flaps to 22. Valley noting 23. Valley the top layer.
steps focuses on the established crease. connecting points.
the top. Note where folds
connect.
24. Eject hidden 25. Valley along angle 26. Valley noting connecting
layers to surface. bisectors. points.
25-28
27. Swivel along angle 28. Bring the top layer to 29. Repeat steps 25-28 on the
bisectors. This reverse surface therby close right side.
folds the tip. sinking the top section.
33. Closed double sink 34. Turn over. 35. Pleat while incorporating
in and out. reverse folds. (Like a water
bomb base)
36. Eject flaps from 37. Pleat and 38. Eject again 39. Reverse fold two
within. reverse fold like points. Next drawing
in step 35. is larger.
39-45
44. Valley down. 45. Eject a single 46. Repeat step 47. Valley. Note the
layer. 39-45 on the other indicated landmarks.
side.
48. Valley. 49. Swivel down. 50. Bring a single 51. Prease heavily along
layer to surface connecting points. This
(Closed sink) is not along an angle
bisector.
52. Open to perform 53. Close back and 54. Swing one 55. There are now two flaps
a spread squash. You reposition the cluster flap down. at the top and bottom.
may need to stick your or flaps. Make a rabbit ear on all
finger in and move the the layers simultaneously.
cluster of flaps aside. (Very thick!)
47 - 60
60. Valley fold inside 61. Repeat steps 62. Next steps 63. Inside reverse fold.
reverse folding 47-60 on the other details the formation Ensure the coloured
the bottom. side. of the claw. layers get reversed.
64. Inside reverse. 65. Reverse inside. 66. Closed sink 67. Completed claw.
triangularly.
68. Repeat steps 69. Pinch to thin 70. Turn over. 71. Rabbit ear pinch
63-67 on the other each of the legs. to shape the antennas.
side.
WĂƉĞƌ͗ ^ĂŶĚǁŝĐŚŽƌǁĞƚĨŽůĚŝŶŐ
WĂƉĞƌƐŝnjĞ͗ ϯϬĐŵ
ϭ Ϯ
ϯ ϰ
Mountt
fold
ϱ ϲ
Fold
d joining
g thee points
3--5
ϳ ϴ
45º
Colapse
In process
ϭϭ ϭϮ
In
n process
ϭϯ ϭϰ
Preliminary
y
fold
ϭϲ
ϭϱ
n process
In
Reversee
fold
ϭϵ
180º ϮϬ
Reversee fold
d in
n
andd out
Ϯϭ
ϮϮ
Repeatt 22
Ϯϯ Ϯϰ
Hidee thee pointt below
Ϯϱ Mark Ϯϲ
Ϯϳ Ϯϴ
d and
Fold d flatt in
n both
h sides
Ϯϵ ϯϬ
Pleat Openn thee modell too seee thee
resultt off thiss stepp (31)
Mark
ϯϭ
ϯϮ
Mark
ϯϱ
ϯϲ
Mark
ϯϳ ϯϴ
Mark
Colapse
In
n process
In
n process
ϯϵ ϰϬ
Sink
k thee shaded
d
area
ϰϯ ϰϰ
42
ϰϲ
ϰϱ
Open
n and
d
flat
ϰϳ ϰϴ
Mark
k and d unfold
d
too stepp 46
ϱϭ ϱϮ
Open
n sink
k thee
shaded
d area
ϱϰ
ϱϯ
Open sink
k thee ϱϱ ϱϲ
shaded
d area
Pleat
ϱϵ
ϲϬ
Pleat
ϲϭ
ϲϮ
Thin
n thee
Hidee paper beak
Shapee thee
Openn eye
and
d flat
ϲϯ ϲϰ
ϲϱ
Rotatee thee modell
slightly
y too thee left
ϲϳ ϲϴ
ϲϵ ϳϬ
68
8 and
d
69
Hidee below
ϳϭ ϳϮ
Revert
Noticee thee
reference
Mark
Revert Revert
ϳϱ ϳϲ
ϳϳ ϳϴ
Hidee below
ϳϵ ϴϬ
Pleat
Revert
Repeatt 79 9 and d 80 0
79 and
d butt too thee otherr
80 side
ϴϰ
ϴϯ
Repeatt stepss 711 too
82
2 with h thee otherr
leg Pleat
Pivot
ϴϲ
ϴϱ
Foltd
d thee
tip
ϵϭ ϵϮ
Pivot
Revert
ϵϯ ϵϰ
Pleat Hidee thee tipp
below
ϵϱ ϵϲ
Pleat
Notice thee 95
reference
Rotatee slightly
y too
thee right
ϵϵ ϭϬϬ
FINISHED
D
MODEL
!
"
# $%%%%
Finished. 11. Turn round. 10. Push together. 9. Slide corners 8. Make 3.
into pockets.
12
4
a/2 2. Your finished Qubes
will look like this.
36
a a/4
1. Prepare your squares.
Each iteration uses squares
one quarter of the size of
those used for the previous
iteration.
Finished.
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1.
2.
2
3
1
3 3.
4.
10.
9.
8.
7.
6.
5.
FATHER BIRD
15 cm kami.
10 Inside-reverse the
hidden white flap to
create the beak.
BABY BIRD
1 2 3 4
5
6 Crease through
both layers to the
marked point only.
8 Inside-
reverse. 7 Collapse along
the creases,
then rotate.
1. 2. 3.
4. 5. 6.
Fold edges to the Rabbit ear fold the left Fold in half behind,
center, letting the flaps and right flaps, creating letting the center flaps
underneath flip out. a fish base from the flip up.
center square.
Fold and unfold (top Fold and unfold (top Fold top layers up like a
layers only). layers only). water bomb base.
135°
(c)
This is the result. The folded Inside reverse fold. The swivel
edges are parallel at (a), the neck point is where the front and the
intersects the back at (b), which is back legs meet. When the fold
directly above the intersection of is complete, the folded edge of
the legs. The leg points at (c) are the flap will run through the top
touching the point that was just point of the triangle.
inside reverse folded.
1. Fold the model in half on the 2. Fold the left and right edges 3. Fold the bottom edge to the
vertical axis and unfold. to the center and unfold. top.
10. Fold the top and bottom 11. old the creased edges to the 12. Fold the corners behind and
edges in. center and unfold. unfold.
16. Zoomed in view on 17. Fold and unfold 18. Sink in and out and 19. Reverse fold the
one corner. Fold again, dividing the in again. ÀDSVIRUPLQJWRHV
and unfold. area in fourths.
20. Like so. Repeat steps 16 – 21. Fold the tip on the right 22. Turn the model over.
RQWKHRWKHUWKUHHÀDSV inward. Note the
landmarks.
= =
4. Fold stripe in half. 5. Fold edge to edge, 6. Fold using existing crease
rabbit ear on the tip . and turn the model over.
= = 9. Reverse fold.
7. Pleat fold. One of the 8. Mountain fold in half.
folds is already creased.
(1)
(2)
(3)
19. Open up. 20. Valley fold. 21. Rabbit ear but
don't adjust to left edge.
22. Close incorporating 23. Finished leg. 24. Repeat steps 15-22
a reverse fold on the rear leg.
Recommended paper size: 25cm, or larger This model was designed from the rear end moving
for thicker paper forward, and naturally the folding sequence moves
Recommended paper type: something thick from the rear end forward. It is a very basic example
of tilted grid design, inspired by the designs of Shuki
Kato.
1. Fold and unfold 2. Fold using the corner and 3. Fold and unfold at the
the reference point
10. Fold and unfold, using 11. Fold and unfold at the 12. Fold halfway between the
the references. Does not need references creases just made, which also
to fold through both layers. goes through the reference
10-12
13. Repeat steps 10-12 if you 14. Fold through the layers, 15. Fold and unfold perpendicular
didn't fold through the layers using the references to the previous creases, and using
the references
16. Fold and unfold, using the 17. Fold and unfold, using the 18. Make diagonal creases using
reference reference the references. Can fold through
the layers, or repeat on the other
-2- side
25. Pleat like step 22 26. Swivel down, but it doesn't 27. Unfold to step 25
have to be horizontal
28. Fold perpendicularly, using 29. Do a bunch of pleats on 30. Squash there
the references existing creases
32-33
34. Repeat steps 32 and 33 35. Pleat in and out (different 36. Squash down on existing
on the other side than steps 22 and 25) creases
37. Pull the corner down, 38. Wrap the layer around 39. Wrap the layer around
refer to the next step to get from both sides
the layers correct
40. Fold the flaps inward 41. Swivel, using the next 42. Swivel in
step for reference angle, This
step determines the angle of
the dog's head, if you want to
change it
4
43. Repeat step 39 on 44. Open sink the top in 45. Valley fold the flap away
the other side
46. Crimp the ears on both sides 47. Round the corners. 48. Crimp the face
49. Crimp in the snout 50. The next steps are from 53. Mountain fold to lock the crimp
the front view
Sakura
Designed and Diagrammed by Evan Zodl
1. Begin with the colored side up. 2. Fold and unfold. 3. Fold and unfold.
Fold and unfold. Turn over.
4. Fold and unfold. Turn over. 5. Valley-fold in half. 6. Fold both corners to the center.
7. Fold and unfold. 8. Reverse-fold along existing 9. Fold out two corners.
creases.
13. Push opposite sides together to 15. Mountain-fold the top layer
reinforce existing mountain folds. behind. It may help to pre-crease
14. The result. The model a valley fold first. Repeat behind.
will now lie flat. Rotate.
16. Create an angle bisector. 17. Create an angle bisector. 18. Create an angle bisector.
Unfold. Unfold.
22. Completed unit. 23. Begin the assembly with two units. Turn over
Now you must fold four more. the second unit then insert its flap inside
the first unit’s pocket.
24. Lift up the layers from 25. Fold the colored corner inside 26. Fold all layers back down
the first unit. along existing creases. This will lock until the model lies flat.
both units together.
27. Repeat steps 23–26 until five 28. Repeat steps 23–26 to connect
units are connected this way. the first and last units.
29. Top view of the result. Open the 30. Completed Sakura.
center flaps and curve the petals.
Mountain Fold
or
Crease
Hidden/X-Ray
Fold Behind
Sink/Reverse/
Push In/
Closed Sink or
Turn Over
Rotate 90°,
1/2 Turn, Etc. 1/2
1/2
Repeat
Crimp
Rabbit Ear
Squash
Petal Fold
Sink
Closed Sink
Pleat
Swivel
Kite Base/
Ice Cream Cone Base
Common Bases
Fish Base
Waterbomb Base
Preliminary Base
Windmill Base