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Weekend

Index
Granada in Ancient Times 4
Back to the Neolithic
COUNTRY BREAK
Lagoons with a Thousand-Year history
The Sierra Martilla Dolmens
Iberian Splendour
TURISMO DE GRANADA A Cradle of Cultures
PATRONATO PROVINCIAL
• The Phoenician Legacy
Plaza Mariana Pineda, 10, 2ª The Cave of the Bats
18009 - Granada Sexi and its Prized Garum

Moorish Granada

Teléfonos: 958/ 24 71 46
Fax: 958/ 24 71 29 8
• The Alhambra, a World
e-mail: turismo@dipgra.es CITY BREAK
www.turismodegranada.org Heritage Site
www.turgranada.com The Islamic Madraza
• The House of Lorenzo el Chapiz
TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE The Walled Medina
Teléfono: 958/ 24 71 28 The Moorish Trade Exchange
Fax: 958/ 24 71 27 For Princess Aixa
e-mail: infotur@dipgra.es
A Celebration of the Senses
Health meets History
The Watchtowers on the Plain
Drinking up the Darro
A Persian Palace on the River Genil
Babbling Water
COUNTRY BREAK Granada’s Watchful Eye
The Alcazaba of the Omeys
The Heights of Lanjarón
Guadix Alcazaba
The Watchtower of the Tropics
Granada in the world

The Unassailable Fortress


From San Cristóbal Hill
The Lookout of the Moors
La Rábita and its Castle
Europa The Fountains of Loja
The Hammans of Al-Jatib
España The Baths in the Jewish Quarter

Christian Granada 22
Andalucía The Pantheon of the Catholic Kings
CITY BREAK
In honour of the Gran Capitán
Mudejar Imagery
Granada On the Site of the Great Mosque
The Legacy of Charles V
Baza - Huéscar: A Library of Treasures
El Altiplano A Baroque Jewel
Siloé’s Masterpiece
Guadix y Granada’s Basilica
Marquesado The Centre of Power
Poniente Granada Urban Majesty
Granadino Sierra
Nevada COUNTRY BREAK The Triumph of Faith
Alpujarra The Cathedral Church of the
Valle de Lecrín Bastetanians
Neo-Classical Brilliance
Costa Tropical Renaissance Elegance
A Blend of Styles
The Pink Palace
The Plain Style of the Peñaflors
© Patronato Provincial de Turismo de Granada Catalan Modernism
Design and Production: www.edantur.com The Fort of the Christian Governors 1
Cultural Granada 32 Romantic Travellers
Vestiges of Garnata From Bloomsbury to Yegen

The Flavours of Granada


CITY BREAK The Finest Arts
Treasures of the Nasrids 58
The Casa de los Tiros
Avant-Garde Art CITY BREAK
Tapa-Sampling in Granada
In the Palace of the Pisas Moorish Tea-Houses
Heroes and Villains Convent Sweets
Abracadabra A World of Gourmet Cuisine
Culture in the Street
Flamenco Encounters COUNTRY BREAK Traditional Cooking
On the Jazz Beat Caviar from El Poniente
Silence, We’re Shooting! Quality Wines
Our Exotic Coast
Shopping
Sensual Argentina
COUNTRY BREAK The Potter’s Tradition 64
The Goddess of Galera The Silk Market
CITY BREAK
A Cult to Sugar A Shopping Day
The Cave of the Seven Palaces The Latest Leisure Centres
The Warrior’s Home
The Secrets of the Mountain COUNTRY BREAK The Luthiers
Prehistoric Orce Accitan Pottery
Cultural Exchange Jarapa Rugs from the Alpujarras

Health and Leisure


Jazz on the Coast
The Trovo Singers 68
The Chords of a Guitar Healthy Granada
The Roots of Music COUNTRY BREAK

Following the Steps of Lorca Out on the town


Classical Airs
44 70
The Poet’s Summer Residence Flamenco Moon
CITY BREAK CITY BREAK Downtown Drinks
COUNTRY BREAK The Birth of a Poet Bohemian Nights
Granada s Nature
The Poet and his Family
The Earth Pays Homage 72
For the Kids 46 COUNTRY BREAK
Sea and Sierra
The Breathtaking Badlands
Science for All Granada’s Green Space
CITY BREAK
Camera Obscura The Sierra of Castril
An Afternoon at the Bowling Alley The Heart of the Tableland
Interpreting Sacromonte The Sierra of La Sagra
The Cahorros of Monachil
COUNTRY BREAK A Garden on the Coast The Infiernos of Loja
Parrots and Ostriches The Escarpments of Alhama
A Cooling Dip Carchuna Beach
On Ice
Romantic Granada
The Rocks of San Cristóbal
Giant Redwoods at La Losa
Active Granada
50
Oriental Dreams 78
CITY BREAK Hidden Paradises A Snow-Capped Sanctuary
The Paseo de los Tristes COUNTRY BREAK Underwater World
Artists’ Inspiration On the crest of the wave
The Colours of Bib-Rambla Long-distance Skiing
Touching the Sky Out to sea
The Magic of Sacromonte A day’s Fishing
Long Distance Footpaths
COUNTRY BREAK The Cave House Tradition The Estrella Route
The Charm of Simplicity A Bird’s Eye View
Boabdil’s Farewell Climbing in the Sierra Nevada
The Route of the Snow-Bearers The Centre of the Earth
The Paseo de las Flores Pump your Adrenaline
A Sea of Clouds Practice your swing
2 3
Granada in Ancient Times
Back to the Neolithic D-7 The Sierra Martilla Dolmens E-1
COUNTRY BREAK COUNTRY BREAK
out of the hillsides and wors-
hipped the gods of life and
death, resurrection and ferti-
lity. Their dead were buried in
characteristic constructions
named dolmens, and 198 of
THE GORAFE DOLMENS. these still remain today in the
At the beginning of the locality of Gorafe, the grea-
fifth millennium, numerous test concentration of burial
Neolithic populations SIERRA MARTILLA DOLMENS. The Megalithic
settled in the natural
valley of the Gor river,
remains of a settlement and necropolis in the Sierra
which in Prehistoric Martilla near the town of Loja are an excellent refe-
times was the border rence point for discovering the archaeological heri-
between the Levan- tage of the province of Granada.
tine tribal groups and The site is an extremely significant
those of Lower Anda- one, containing a dozen dolmens
lucia. These Mega- from the Copper Age with one or
lithic settlers formed a several burial chambers half-dug
complex, hierarchic into the rock. There are also burial
society. They lived in
dwellings hollowed
grounds from the High Mediaeval
mounds of this type in the era and a Moorish watchtower.
whole of the Iberian Penin- Tourist Information Office of Loja
sula and most of Europe. This 958 323 949
is a journey back to antiquity
definitely not to be missed.

City Council of Gorafe


D-8 Iberian Splendour
958 693 159
COUNTRY BREAK
ARCHAEOLOGICAL
REMAINS AT BASTI. In
D-5 Lagoons with a Thousand-Year history around the 6th century,
the Iberians chose the
COUNTRY BREAK Cepero Hill, where the
present-day town of
VENTANAS CAVE. Declared Baza is located, to found
a Natural Monument of what was to become
Andalusia, the Ventanas Ca- one of the most impor-
ve at Píñar offers an extrava- tant fortified towns or
ganza of shadows and light “oppida” in the whole Tourist Information Office of Baza
and is one of the most interes- of South-Eastern
ting places where we can find 958 861 325
Iberia: Basti. Its
out how our Prehistoric ances- City Council of Píñar two necropolis, the Santuario Hill and the
tors used to live, with lifelike 958 394 613 Largo Hill, give us an idea of the town’s splen-
recreations installed along the www.cuevalasventanas.com dour. Funerary offerings and extremely valuable
whole of the route. Impressive works of art have been discovered here such as
stalagmites, stalactites and gullies bored into the rock by the the Lady of Baza and the Warrior, urn-statues
water can be observed in the Piletas and Columnas Rooms used by the inhabitants of Basti to contain the
and in the Gran Sima or Great Chasm, a well of over 20 metres ashes of their higher-ranking dead. Roman and
deep giving access to the Tesoro Room. Mediaeval remains have also been found on
excavation of this site, declared to be a Site
of Cultural Interest.
4 5
Granada in Ancient Times
E-2 A Cradle of Cultures H-6 The Cave of the Bats
COUNTRY BREAK COUNTRY BREAK
PEÑA DE LOS GITANOS. The impressive natural outcrop of the
Peña de los Gitanos, in Montefrío, is set on a high rocky bluff
with terraces and oak woods, and contains one of the most inte-
resting archaeological sites in the Poniente Granadino. This was
an ideal habitat for Neolithic settlers due to its fertile land and
abundance of wild animals, and almost a hundred Megalithic
tombs can be observed here, with dolmens of up to 8 metres in
length forming part of three necropolis: those of Castellón, La
Camarilla and El Rodeo. There are also
numerous caves where flint arrowhe-
ads, bone combs and copper idols
have been found together with cave
paintings. It has been declared a Site
of Cultural Interest.
CAVE OF THE City Council of Albuñol
Tourist Information Office of Montefrío BATS. Extremely 958 826 528
958 336 004 important archaeo-
logical remains have been discovered on the site of
this prehistoric settlement, located on the western
wall of the Angosturas Ravine in Albuñol and
dating from the era of transition between the
Neolithic and the Metal Age. The distinctive tempe-
ratures and geological conditions inside the cave
have allowed the conservation of extremely valua-
ble remains such as vessels, cooking pots, arrowhe-
ads and knives, in addition to a magnificent speci-
men of woven plant craftwork (esparto grass
shoes and clothing) discovered in the underground
burial chambers. The cave is open to visitors.

The Phoenician Legacy H-3 Sexi and its Prized Garum H-3
COUNTRY BREAK
COUNTRY BREAK
EL MAJUELO FISH-SALTING FAC-
TORY. Evidence has been discovered
THE PUENTE DE NOY here of the work carried out at what
NECROPOLIS. This impres- was the fish-salting factory of the
sive necropolis was used Roman city of Sexi, dating as far back
up until Roman times, as the 4th century B.C., although it
and was a burial ground reached its apogee in the 1st and 2nd
from the 7th to the 1st centuries A.D. The much-appreciated
centuries B.C. It is located garum, a paste or sauce made from
in the natural area of fermented fish entrails, was produced
Puente de Noy, from which here and exported to the whole of the
it takes its name. Almost Roman Empire. Today part of the ancient factory is buried beneath
200 tombs with funerary the El Majuelo Botanical and Archaeological Park, but a large
offerings have been found extension of the salting
Tourist Information Office of Almuñécar during the different exca- basins and structures exca- Tourist Information Office of Almuñécar
958 631 125 vations made here. vated in the 1970´s and 80´s 958 631 125
can be observed.
6 7
Moorish Granada
The Alhambra, a World Heritage Site F-4
CITY BREAK
LA ALHAMBRA. Erected by the Lions and its famous patio. The
prestigious architects of the time route around the Alhambra, one
on the hill of Sabika, majestically of Spain’s most visited monu-
overlooking the Darro Valley, this ments, is completed by a stroll
regal, unassailable citadel with its through different rooms such as
Oriental architecture has gone the Hall of the Two Sisters, the
down in history as the maximum Hall of the Abencerrajes or the
symbol of the splendour achieved Hall of the Kings, decorated
by Granada under the Nasrid with beautiful plasterwork, and
dynasty. Built between the 13th contemplation of the Alcazaba
and 15th centuries, it contains with its towers and the aljibes or
all aspects of the art of the Moorish Baths. Outside the
Moorish era in Spain and is an wall which encloses it is the
artistic legacy of incalculable Generalife, which with its mag-
value, declared a World Heritage nificent gardens was the summer
Site by UNESCO. palace of the Sultans.
Beautiful patios and fountains
enveloped by exuberant gardens
lead the visitor to the sumptuous
Moorish Palaces such as that of
Comares, inside which are the
Patio of the Myrtles and the
Hall of the Ambassadors with
its magnificent carved wood Alhambra de Granada
dome, and the Palace of the 902 441 221

8 9
Moorish Granada
The Islamic Madraza F-4 F-4 The Walled Medina
CITY BREAK CITY BREAK
PALACE OF THE MADRAZA. Built under
the reign of Yusuf I in the 14th century, CITY WALLS AND GATES. The
this ancient Islamic University of higher walls encircling Mediaeval Granada
Koranic studies where Theology, Jurispru- fulfilled a dual function – they
dence and Philosophy were taught enjo- defended it against enemy attack
yed great fame and prestige in the West. and marked out its limits against
After housing the City Hall for some time, the surrounding plain. The first
the building later became a fabric ware- walls were built with this purpose
house, but it is now a university once by the Zirites in the 11th century,
more. It possesses a harmonious combina- and some remains of this primitive
tion of architectural styles as can be seen from its Baroque faça- construction are still visible together
de, the Islamic oratory and the beautiful Mudejar coffered cei- with later additions in the Albaicín,
ling in the Hall of the Caballeros beside the Cuesta de la Alhacaba.
(Knights) Veinticuatro. Oficios, 14
958 243 484 The city gates intersper-
sed around the walls
were a hive of activity,
with trade and market
transactions taking place
in the lively, bustling
medina. The main Gate
of Elvira still stands in all
its splendour today, as
does the Gate of
Monaita.

F-4 The House of Lorenzo el Chapiz


CITY BREAK
HOUSE OF EL CHAPIZ.
Home to the School of
Arabic Studies since 1932,
this Mudejar monument is
named after its owners, the
Moorish lords Lorenzo el
Chapiz and Hernán López El
Ferí. Plasterwork, pools, por-
ticoed galleries and huge
marble columns grace this
building which may origi-
nally have formed part of
the Islamic Palace of Dar al-
Cuesta del Chapiz, 22
Bayda, “the white house”.
958 222 290

10 11
Moorish Granada
The Moorish Trade Exchange F-4 F-4 Health meets History
CITY BREAK CITY BREAK
CORRAL DEL CARBÓN. This was THE ALJIBE ARABIC BATHS.
the corn exchange in Moorish Located in the historic Aljibe
times and served merchants as a or pool of San Miguel,
goods warehouse and lodging these baths recover a thou-
house. It is the only building of sand-year old tradition in the
this type in Spain to be totally pre- city of the Alhambra, inheri-
served today, meriting its declara- ted by the Moors from the
tion as a Monument of Cultural Romans with their famous
Interest. Under Christian domi- spas or hot baths.
nation it was used as a coal ware-
house and a theatre.

Calle Mariana Pineda Inside the baths there are six


warm water pools and one
cold water pool, and massa-
ge and aromatherapy are
F-4 For Princess Aixa also on offer.
CITY BREAK
San Miguel Alta, 41
PALACE OF DAR AL-HORRA. In the Plaza de San Miguel 958 522 867
Bajo, in the heart of the Albaicín quarter, stands the last dwe-
lling place of the mother of the Moorish king Boabil, a superb
mansion house constructed in the
15th century on the foundations of
the demolished palace of the Zirite The Watchtowers on the Plain F-4
monarchs. Declared a Monument CITY BREAK
of Cultural Interest, its many THE TORRES BERMEJAS. Built on the southernmost
rooms and lush gardens later beca- edge of the Cerro de los Mártires hill in the Realejo
me home to another ruler, the quarter, these originally formed part of a chain of watch-
Christian queen Isabel the Catholic. towers located at strategic points around the Plain of
Granada and used for watching out for enemy attack and
Callejón de las Monjas, s/n protecting the city. A rampart of the city wall branches
off from these towers and leads directly to the Alcazaba
of the Alhambra.
A Celebration of the Senses F-4
CITY BREAK
HAMMAN. These Moorish
Baths, right in the centre of
Granada, provide visitors with
an opportunity to indulge in
the pleasures of the
Hammams, important Anda-
lusí meeting places and leisure
establishments. The decora-
tion of the Moorish bathhou-
ses and the structure of their
rooms has been faithfully
reproduced. After a relaxing
bath, aromatic brews can be
sampled in the Moorish tea Santa Ana, 16
room while enjoying a show 958 229 978
of typical belly-dancing.
12 13
Moorish Granada
Drinking up the Darro F-4 F-4 A Persian Palace on the River Genil
CITY BREAK CITY BREAK
EL BAÑUELO. The Moorish THE GENIL ALCÁZAR. The resi-
bathhouse named the No- dence of the Sultans of North
gal - walnut tree - or Bañue- Africa, this 13th century Nasrid
lo (Hamman al-Yawza, in almunia or leisure house belon-
Arabic) was commissioned ged to the mother of King Boabdil
to be built beside the and was built on the plain of the
Bridge of Cadí by the River Genil in the style of the
Jewish vizier Ibn Nagrela Persian palaces. Surrounded by
during the reign of the Taifa beautiful gardens and fountains, it
king Badis in the 11th cen- had a large pool where residents
tury. It is one of the best and guests staged mock battles
examples of Arabic Baths in and naval games. Of the original building only the central pavilion is
the whole of Spain and is still preserved, with remains of plasterwork and interlaced wood
also one of the most designs, as the side buildings and
ancient vestiges of Moorish Rey Abú Said, s/n
the portico are extensions made to
Granada, several centuries 958 130 018
the building in the 19th century.
older than the Alhambra.
The Baths have been beau-
tifully restored, giving
today’s visitors an insight
Babbling Water F-4
CITY BREAK
into how life must have ALJIBES OF GRANADA. The bub-
been in what were major centres for socialising in the Andalusí bling sound of water which charac-
period. The original columns and capitals, marble floors and terises Granada, bringing to mind
remains of Moorish paintwork on the skirting boards give way echoes of the Nasrid kingdom, is
to luminous domes pierced by skylights made up of tiny stars reflected in the numerous Moorish
which were the ventilation system for the original baths. The baths that have been preserved.
layout of the building in Roman times is faithfully reproduced, with These were utilitarian in character
an entrance patio containing a small pool, a vestibule, refreshment and were sometimes located in the
room, central room, hot room and heating area. The Baths have patios of the Mosques for ablu-
been declared a Monument of tion before prayer, while others
Cultural Interest. Carrera del Darro, 31
channelled water to the houses
958 027 800
and stood in the squares or beside
the gates in the city walls.
The 28 Aljibes or Bathhouses
which remain from the mediaeval
Elvira, in the Albaicín and Realejo
quarters, inside the Alhambra or in
the city centre, are defini-
tely the most valuable of all
those to have been discove-
red in the historic cities of Al-
Andalus. Some of these
baths, such as the Aljibe
del Peso de la Harina or
the Bathhouse located in
the Plaza del Abad, are still
in use today.
14 15
Moorish Granada
E-2 Granada’s Watchful Eye E-6 Guadix Alcazaba
COUNTRY BREAK COUNTRY BREAK
ÍLLORA CASTLE. Located on a GUADIX ALCAZABA. This majestic 11th century for-
huge crag overlooking the town, tress stands to the south of the city; it dates back to
tradition has it that the Palace of Roman times but was restructured by the Moors. In
the Gran Capitán stood opposi- addition to using it as a palace, the Moors also insta-
lled their military garrison in its circle of towers and
te the main entrance to this ramparts and connected it to a much larger system of
Moorish castle, of whose door defence, the wall enclosing the whole of the medina.
only two Doric columns of the The views of the Cave Quarter to be had from its
lower part remain. Its watchto- turrets are spectacular.
City Council of Íllora Tourist Information Office of Guadix
wers formed part of a long chain 958 662 665
of defence and communications 958 463 011
fortresses, together with the castles of Moclín, Alcalá la Real
and Granada.

The Alcazaba of the Omeys F-1


COUNTRY BREAK
THE ALCAZABA OF LOJA. A military and
administrative centre in the Mediaeval town,
the Alcazaba reached its greatest splendour
under the dominion of the Omeys, later under-
going numerous modifications to its structure.
Various spaces can be admired within the area
of the Alcazaba today: the 12th – 14th century
city walls, with turrets and gates such as the
Gate of Jaufín; the Moorish Baths, the main Keep (9th – 14th cen- The Watchtower of the Tropics H-4
tury) which is the only vestige of what must have been a military resi- COUNTRY BREAK
dence with a monumental access door
Tourist Information Office of Loja
and a dome held up by four horns, and
958 323 949
the Fort of the Christian Governors.

G-5 The Heights of Lanjarón


COUNTRY BREAK
LANJARÓN CASTLE. High on a hill
overlooking the village of Lanjarón
stand the remains of the Almoravid
castle, a stonework and rammed SALOBREÑA CASTLE. Looking down on the town
earth construction which was the main from its high hill, this fortress dates from the 10th
military bastion in the Alpujarra moun- century and is a perfect combination of Nasrid and
tains. It is the finest existing example of Christian architecture. Its surrounding walls and
the importance acquired by this village, some of its towers are well-conserved, and there is a
of Arabic and Berber origin, in the splendid view from the Torre del Homenaje, where
times of Al-Andalus. the blue of the ocean can be seen to merge with the
sky and the green of the
Tourist Information Office
Tourist Information Office of Lanjarón plain below the snow-cap-
of Salobreña
958 770 462 ped summits of the Sierra
958 610 314
Nevada in wintertime.
16 17
Moorish Granada
The Unassailable Fortress E-2 E-3 The Lookout of the Moors
COUNTRY BREAK COUNTRY BREAK
MONTEFRÍO CASTLE. The same architect who masterminded
the Alhambra was chosen to find a location for this castle and
then plan its construction, endowing it with all the necessary
elements for it to be an unassailable fortress in the event of a
Christian invasion. The Catholic monarchs commissioned a
church to be built inside it, which the
brilliant sculptor and architect Diego de Tourist Information
Siloé created in a combination of Office of Montefrío
Gothic, Mudejar and Renaissance styles. 958 336 004

MOCLÍN CASTLE. Located on the most strategic point of the bor-


der with the Kingdom of Granada, this castle was one of the prime
defence elements during the Nasrid era and is the only fortress to
have preserved its surrounding wall almost intact. It has two main
parts: the lower area including the entrance tower, and the upper
area, at a height of 1,117 metres above sea level, with the Torre
del Homenaje or Keep and the Aljibe or water reservoir. The
Church of Cristo del Paño, where thousands of people congrega-
H-3 From San Cristóbal Hill te each year for the popular
COUNTRY BREAK local pilgrimage, stands on the City Council of Moclín
site of a former mosque. 958 403 051
CASTLE OF SAN MIGUEL. The sturdy walls of the Castle
of Almuñécar were the backdrop for important events in
the history of the province of Granada. In the Nasrid era,
apart from being the Sultans’ leisure palace, it was also
infamous for its jail and dungeons where ministers
La Rábita and its Castle H-6
COUNTRY BREAK
fallen into disgrace and powerful military leaders were
locked up. The Christians named it after the city’s patron
LA RÁBITA CASTLE.
saint. In 1808, during the War of Independence, it fell
This Nasrid fort
into the hands of the French and was bombarded by the
dates from the 12th
English fleet. At pre-
century and is loca-
sent it houses the Tourist Information Office of Almuñécar
958 631 125 ted in a hamlet besi-
City’s Museum.
de the village of
Albuñol, where it
was built on the site
of a former “ribat”
or monastery and
fortress tower, which served as lodgings for the Moorish
soldier monks in charge of watching out for any incursions
of the Christian armies
along the Granada coast. City Council of Albuñol
958 826 060

18 19
Moorish Granada
F-1 The Fountains of Loja D-8 The Baths in the Jewish Quarter
COUNTRY BREAK COUNTRY BREAK

FOUNTAINS. The Sierra Gorda, overlooking the town of Loja,


contains the sources of numerous natural springs which flow down
to the town and are channelled into the picturesque fountains and
columns that give the locality a refreshing charm. The best known
of these is the Fountain of the 25 Spouts or Fountain of the
Mooress, in the
Alfaguara quarter,
others being the
Fountain of the
Plaza de Arriba (or
Fountain of the
Constitution) and
the Fuente Santa
(Sacred Fountain).

D-8 The Hammans of Al-Jatib


COUNTRY BREAK ARABIC BATHS AT BAZA. Recent archaeological
excavations have revealed that these baths date back
AL-JATIB BATHS. The tradition to the times of the Almohads in the 13th century,
which existed in the Baza region in although some experts consider them to be even
Roman times of bathing in the older than the Bañuelo baths in Granada. In any case
Caves of Al-Jatib has been revived they are an excellent example of an urban bathhou-
with the thorough restoration of se, small in size and linked to
the Arabic Baths. a nearby mosque located in
the old outlying quarter of
Marzuela (the present quar-
These consist of three ter of Santiago). Its three main
rooms where visitors can rooms are extremely well-pre-
bathe alternately in hot, served: the "bayt al-barid"
tepid and cold water. There or cold room, the "bayt al-
is also a Moorish tea wastani" or warm room, and
room with a great selec- the "bayt as-sajum" or hot
tion of evocatively-named room. The latter, together
teas such as the “1001 with the vestibule, is covered
nights”, “Lover’s dreams” by a roof of half-domes pier-
or “Al Jatib Dusk”. ced with skylights in the
shape of the six-pointed stars
of the sons of David.

Tourist Information Office of Baza


Cuevas Al-Jatib (Baza)
958 861 325
958 342 248

20 21
Christian Granada
The Pantheon of the Catholic Kings F-4 F-4 Mudejar Imagery
CITY BREAK CITY BREAK

CONVENT AND CHURCH OF


SANTA ISABEL LA REAL.
Founded by Isabel the Catholic in
the early 16th century, the
church has an unusual location in
the centre of the Albaicín quar-
ter within part of the orchards
and gardens of the neighbouring
Dar al-Horra Palace, the resi-
dence of the mother of the
Moorish king Boabdil. Its specta-
cular Gothic door, designed by
Enrique Egas, combines mixtiline-
ROYAL CHAPEL. Two beautiful burial chambers designed by Dome-
ar arches, small columns, vaulted
nico Fancelli, located at the high altar of the Royal Chapel, contain
niches and pinnacles. There are a
the remains of the Catholic Monarchs and of Joan the Mad and
mix of styles inside the building,
her husband, and under these are their tombs, in a small under-
with valuable Mudejar armature
ground crypt. The place chosen by King Ferdinand for the royal pan-
covering the central nave and a
theon was designed by Enrique Egas in accordance with Queen
coffered ceiling resembling the
Isabel’s desire for austerity, and the greatest artists of the time partici-
English hanging vaults, toge-
pated in the construction of this
Santa Isabel la Real, 15 ther with works by Pedro de
building adjacent to the Cathedral:
958 277 836 Mena and Bocanegra.
Bartolomé Ordóñez, Alonso Berru-
guete, Machuca, Siloé and Alonso
de Mena, amongst others.

Oficios, 3
On the Site of the Great Mosque F-4
958 229 239 CITY BREAK

CHURCH OF EL SALVADOR.
F-4 In honour of the Gran Capitán Built in Mudejar style on the
CITY BREAK site of the ancient Great
Mosque of Granada, it was
MONASTERY OF SAN JERÓ- consecrated in 1499 by Car-
NIMO. The Duchess of Sessa, the dinal Cisneros as a Parish
wife of the “Gran Capitán” Church dedicated to the
Gonzalo Fernández de Córdo- worship of Christ the Saviour.
ba, was behind the construction of From its Islamic origins it con-
this Renaissance style building serves the only remaining
where the illustrious couple now patio of ablutions within a
rest. It consists of two Cloisters mosque in the whole city, in
with beautiful galleries in a merge addition to original columns,
of different styles, and the Basilica-shaped church housing an intricately pieced ceilings and
altarpiece that took 25 years to complete, with magnificent a deep Moorish bath.
ashlar masonry on the Choir;
Rector López Argüeta, 9 both this and the main chapel Plaza del Abad, 2
958 279 337 are the work of Diego de Siloé. 958 278 644
22 23
Christian Granada
The Legacy of Charles V F-4 F-4 A Baroque Jewel
CITY BREAK CITY BREAK
PALACE OF CHARLES V. The Christian
monarch to leave the greatest mark on the Alhambra was defini- MONASTERY OF LA CARTUJA. The advent of the
tely Charles V, who inherited all the fascination this monument Baroque style brought to the city the intricate ornamen-
held over the Catholic Kings, but not their attitude of total res- tation of domes, altar-
pect. He ordered a great Renaissance-inspired palace to be built pieces and chapels,
on the centre of the hill of Sabika, designed by and gave Granada
Pedro Machuca and financed by the taxes imposed one of the prime
on the Moors. The building is square on the out- works of this style in
side but has a magnificent circular patio with the whole of Spain:
two galleries superimposed upon its inner faça- the Sacristy of the
de, and many consider this construction to be Cartuja Monastery,
strongly symbolic: the earthly power of the with Lanjarón marble
emperor, contrasted with the power of God ins- plinths and paintings
cribed within a circle. The external decoration by Bocanegra and
shows the tasks of Hercules, with whom the Sánchez Cotán. The
emperor associates Enclosure of the Alhambra building’s construc- Paseo de la Cartuja s/n
himself in the myth. 958 027 900 tion, backed finan- 958 161 932
cially by the Gran
Capitán Gonzalo Fernández of Córdoba, began in 1506
but it was only finished three centuries later, and in the
meantime elements were added ranging from very late
Gothic to sober Renaissance.

Siloé’s Masterpiece F-4


CITY BREAK
CATHEDRAL OF THE ANNUNCIATION. Commissioned to be built
beside the Great Mosque by the Catholic Monarchs, its construction was
begun in the early 16th century by Enrique Egas but the work was soon
taken over by Diego de Siloé, who designed what has later come to be
F-4 A Library of Treasures considered the culminating work of the Spanish Renaissance. The
main façade is a magnificent Baroque creation by Alonso Cano, with
CITY BREAK ROYAL HOSPITAL. This unusual building, the belltower at one end of the building. Inside the Cathedral, stained
commissioned to be built as a Hospital by glass windows brought from Flanders crown the walls of the Main
the Catholic Monarchs, is one of the few Chapel, and the soft light that filters through them illuminates two of
civil buildings from these times to be found the Cathedral’s main treasures: the Crucifix by Martínez Montañés in
in the city of Granada. Erected on the site the Sacristy, and,
of the ancient Fortress of Qadima, it com- below it, Alonso
bines Mudejar, Gothic and Renaissance Cano’s Immaculate
elements; its ground plan resembles a Conception.
Greek cross, and it now houses the Gran Vía, 5
Rectory of the city’s University. In addi- 958 222 959
tion to the beautiful wooden wall coverings, it houses sculptures by
Alonso de Mena and paintings by Bocanegra, together with a highly
valuable collection of 47 incunabula
Cuesta del Hospicio, s/n
and books illustrated with miniatures,
958 243 025
carefully guarded in its library.
24 25
Christian Granada
Granada’s Basilica F-4 F-4 Urban Majesty
CITY BREAK CITY BREAK
BASILICA OF SAN JUAN DE BASILICA OF NUESTRA SE-
DIOS. The Papal bull “Extat Gra- ÑORA DE LAS ANGUSTIAS.
nate”, issued by Benedict XV in The two high belltowers topped
1916, granted the title of Basilica by glazed tiles come into view
to this Baroque church, financed from a great distance away to
by the Hospitalaria Order for the herald the vision of this Baroque
burial of their founder’s remains. church, built on the site of an
Designed by José de Bada, the ancient chapel. After passing
Master Architect of Granada and through the two spiral columns flanking the main door made of
Málaga Cathedrals, the church Sierra Elvira stone, visitors can contemplate the Chamber of the
possesses a superb door flanked by Virgin Mary – the Patron Saint of Granada - inside the church
two impressive belltowers bearing below the Main Altar, one of Granada’s earliest Churrigueresque
works, with its ornamentation of
golden leaves and magnificent Carrera del Genil, s/n
coloured marble. 958 226 393

the images of St. John of F-4 The Triumph of Faith


God, St. Gabriel, St. COUNTRY BREAK
Raphael and St. Barbara.
The most outstanding tre- GUADIX CATHEDRAL. The Cathedral was constructed on
asures inside the church the site of the former Great Mosque and took three centu-
are the frescoes by San Juan de Dios, 23 ries to build (16th to 18th), which explains its harmonious
Diego Sánchez Sarabia. 958 275 700

The Centre of Power F-4


CITY BREAK
ROYAL CHANCERY. This Renaissance
building with its beautiful façade was Granada’s Court of
Justice from the time of the Conquest of the city by the
Catholic Monarchs, and was commissioned to be built by
Philip II in the early
16th century. Re-
maining the seat of
the royal judicial
power today as the
Higher Court of blend of Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque styles. It has three
Justice of Andalu- façades, the main one dedicated to the Annunciation and
cia, it is located in recalling the style of Borromini. The magnificent ashlar sto-
one of the city’s bu- nework on the Chorus is accompanied by huge panels with
siest squares, and it Marian themes decorating the inside of the church, which
was here that con- also contains the Cathedral Museum, with interesting
demned criminals works of art and highly
Plaza Nueva, s/n Paseo de la Catedral, s/n (Guadix)
were executed in valuable ancient books.
958 242 100 958 665 108
the past.
26 27
Christian Granada
The Cathedral Church of the Bastetanians D-8 F-7 Renaissance Elegance
COUNTRY BREAK COUNTRY BREAK
LA CALAHORRA CASTLE. This characteristic fortress, built in the
early 16th century, is constructed around a magnificent Ren-
aissance-style palace, its style being a great challenge at the time
as the later Mediaeval style of building still prevailed in Spain. Its
promoter, Don Rodrigo de Mendoza, brought back from Italy
the plans for the patio and the sketches for the sculptures that
were to decorate it, and insisted that the architect copied them
down to the last detail. For the architectural and decorative ele-
ments on the upper floor he ordered Carrara marble sculptures
directly from Italian workshops. Set against the background of the
snow-capped peaks of the sierra, the castle is one of the most
beautiful sights in the who-
City Council of La Calahorra
le of Granada province.
958 677 132

COLLEGIATE CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF LA ENCARNACIÓN.


Built from the 16th century onwards on the remains of the
Muslim temple, this huge church combines Baroque, Gothic
and Plateresque architecture and has an impressive five-bodied
tower. Declared a Monument of Cultural Interest, it houses
a spectacular vaulted ceiling Tourist Information Office of Baza
above its thick ashlar walls. 958 861 325

E-2 Neo-Classical Brilliance


COUNTRY BREAK
CHURCH OF LA EN-
A Blend of Styles B-9
COUNTRY BREAK
CARNACIÓN. This cu-
rious, beautiful church COLLEGIATE CHURCH OF SANTA MARÍA LA MAYOR OR LA
stands in the village of ENCARNACIÓN. Declared a Monument of Cultural Interest, this
Montefrío. It was built 16th century church in the village of Huéscar brings together a
during the reign of wide variety of architectural styles, as it was created over the centu-
Charles III and is attri- ries by great artists such as Andrés de Vandelvira, Diego Siloé
buted to the architect and Juan de Herrera. Conceived as a veritable Cathedral, amongst
Ventura Rodríguez. its major architectural features are its hidden Gothic dome, its
It takes the form of a Gothic doorway, the Pla-
perfect circle with a teresque dome of the Old
small rectangle atta- Sacristy, the octagonal
ched, which houses tower with a spiral stair-
the Main Chapel. This church is unusual in that it is the first case, the portico desig-
church to use a single stone to close off its dome; its prede- ned by Herrera and the
cessor is the Pantheon of Agrippa in Rome. Baroque choir.
Tourist Information Office of Montefrío City Council of Huéscar
958 336 004 958 740 011
28 29
Christian Granada
E-6 The Pink Palace B-9 Catalan Modernism
COUNTRY BREAK COUNTRY BREAK
PALACE OF THE GALLARDOS.
This privately-owned 19th century
seigniorial building is a magnificent HOUSE OF THE
sight, standing on a hilltop overloo- PENALVAS. This sta-
king the village of Marchal and the tely home on the
valley below. It has a fairytale qua- Paseo del Santo Cris-
lity about it, with its steep double to in Huéscar is outs-
gables like those of the Renaissance tanding in Granada
castles in the Loire Valley. province as it is a
Ramblas, 30 (Marchal) pure, refined exam-

ple of Catalan modernism. The in-


The Plain Style of the Peñaflors E-6
fluence of the brilliant architect Gaudi
PALACE OF THE MARQUISES OF COUNTRY BREAK is patent in the exquisite organic,
PEÑAFLOR. Fort-like in structure, this plant-like lines of its decoration, with
16th century mansion was built on the typical heavily-laden forms of this
part of Guadix’s original city walls. Its architectural style. On the first floor are
sober façade has a single access gate the great drawing room, the oratory
and two sturdy quadrangular towers and the sacristy, and the semi-base-
on each side. As well as its famous ment houses the domestic and service
wooden balustraded balcony giving rooms (the wood bunker, the kitchen,
spectacular views of the surrounding the garage and the wine cellar).
area, the beautiful Mudejar coffered
ceilings in the different rooms that Paseo del Santo Cristo, s/n
converge on its central double-galle- Barradas, s/n (Guadix) (Huéscar)
ried patio are also of great interest. 958 669 300

The Fort of the Christian Governors F-1


COUNTRY BREAK

Built in the 17th century by Pedro de


Tapia, the Patio of Arms of the Moorish
Alcazaba is one of the most significant
elements of Loja’s city landscape. Decla-
red a Monument of Cultural Interest,
the building has served different purpo-
ses over time, being a prison and an
army barracks and then a warehouse. Its
sober constructive lines are of great note,
together with the discreet Renaissance-
style bossage on its main door.

Tourist Information Office of Loja


958 323 949

31
Cultural Granada
Vestiges of Garnata F-4 F-4 Treasures of the Nasrids
CITY BREAK CITY BREAK
GRANADA ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM. LA ALHAMBRA MUSEUM. This museum
The Casa de Castril, one of Granada’s most is located inside the Palace of Charles V,
appealing Renaissance palaces, houses the and its origins and evolution are closely lin-
seven rooms of the Museum in its halls and ked to those of the Alhambra and
patio, and visitors to it are shown a pano- Generalife as a whole, its collection
rama of the province from its ancient basically being made up of objects
origins to the year 1492. Objects of found within them. Visitors can
great value are on display such as the admire exhibits illustrating the reli-
prehistoric remains found in the Cave gion, science and economy of Islam,
of Carigüela de Píñar and the Cave of the in addition to architectural elements
Bats at Albuñol, Greek and Iberian ves- such as richly carved capitals, bronze
sels, the Roman “Togado de Periate” sta- objects and a full collection of ceramic
tue, and 14th century Moorish coin and pottery, plus the blue and gold “Jug of
astrolabe collections. the Gazelles”, a 14th century treasure.

Carrera del Darro, 43 Palace of Charles V


958 225 640 958 027 900

The Casa de los Tiros F-4


CITY BREAK

F-4 The Finest Arts


CITY BREAK
Palace of Charles V
FINE ARTS MUSEUM. On the 958 027 800
upper floor of the Palace of
Charles V, the works on display
date from the 15th to 20th cen-
turies and are a perfect illustra-
tion of the evolution of Granada’s
MUSEUM OF POPULAR ARTS AND TRADITION.
art and artists. Paintings by
The Palace of the Gil Vázquez Rengifo family, popularly
Sánchez Cotán, Bocanegra
known as the “Casa de los Tiros” or House of the
and Alonso Cano can be seen
Shots for the muskets peeping out of its crenellated
alongside sculptures by Pedro
windows, is of great interest and value for two reasons.
de Mena, in addition to the
Apart from being a highly unusual building in itself, with
impressive “Gran Capitán”
its spectacular Golden Room, it also houses an impor-
triptych from the Monastery of
tant art collection, with 17th – 19th century paintings,
San Jerónimo and the five 16th
Baroque sculptures, Fajalauza
century panel paintings from the
pottery, Oriental-style exhibits, Pavaneras, 19
Chapel of the Martyrs, which
popular fabrics and a collection 958 221 072
now no longer exists.
of 19th century furniture.
32 33
Cultural Granada
F-4 Avant-Garde Art In the Palace of the Pisas F-4
CITY BREAK CITY BREAK
JOSÉ GUERRERO CONTEMPO-
RARY ART CENTRE. Located in SAN JUAN DE DIOS MUSEUM. St.
the heart of the Alcaicería, this John of God spent the last days of
museum with its innovating archi- his life in this stately home with the
tecture is dedicated to the work of air of a Moorish palace, belonging
one of the most prestigious artists to the Pisa family. When the last of
of the city of Granada. The collec- this noble family died at the end of
tion displays the most representati- the 19th century, the Hospitalaria
ve periods of the painter of “The Order acquired the building and
Breach of Viznar” (one of his dedicated it to the memory of its
most fundamental works): his founder, reinstating it as the Order’s
beginnings in the 1940s where the Museum and Archive. In addition
to the iconography of the saint and
some of his personal belongings the
museum also houses a collection of sculptures of the Baby
Jesus, Flemish paintings and objects in ivory, together with
sculptures and paintings
by Pablo de Rojas, Raxis Convalecencia, 1
and Bocanegra. 958 222 144-958 227 448

influence of Matisse and Picasso is patent, his discovery of abstract


painting with the American painters of the fifties, the impact of pop
art, his maturity as a painter, and
Oficios, 8 - 958 225 185 his breakthrough to his own par-
www.centroguerrero.org ticular system of form.

Heroes and Villains F-4


F-4 Abracadabra
CITY BREAK
INTERNATIONAL COMIC FESTIVAL. CITY BREAK
Who hasn’t read an Asterix and Obelix,
Tintin or Captain America comic at “HOCUS POCUS” MA-
some time in their lives? The Comic GIC FESTIVAL. The art of
Festival is held in the second week of illusion magically fills the
March and gives us the chance to see streets of Granada each
original versions of superhero artwork, November when the only
find out what’s new on the Japanese international convention
manga scene or discover the work of of this type held in Spain
artists like Milo Manara, Peter Bagge takes place in the city.
(the author of ODIO), Minetaro Street parades and per-
Mochizuki (the creator of Dragon Heat), formances can be enjoyed
Enrique S. Abuli (Spain’s most presti- by young and old alike in addition to the galas and
gious comic writer and the author of the shows held in the Isabel la Católica Theatre, and
Torpedo comics), and Jon Bogdanove workshops and activities are specially organised for pro-
(the man who draws Superman), fessionals of the magic world who flock in from all
amongst many others. It is held in the parts of the globe.
Palacio de Exposiciones y Congresos. www.hocuspocusfestival.com

34 35
Cultural Granada
Culture in the Street F-4 Silence, We’re Shooting! F-4
CITY BREAK CITY BREAK
INTERNATIONAL MUSIC AND YOUNG FILM-MAKERS’ FESTIVAL.
DANCE FESTIVAL. This is one of The main aim of this cinema contest
the major events in Spain on the is to boost new talent, and it is a
summer cultural agenda, and its luxury showcase where young direc-
origins go back to the symphonic tors and producers can present their
concerts which were held during work. There are three sections – real
the Corpus Christi celebrations action, animation and experimental -
from 1883 onwards. For three where both full-length and short films
weeks, the city’s most emblematic can compete. The Isabel La Católica
areas become the improvised back- Theatre and the Palace of the
958 276 200 drop for concerts of chamber Condes de Gabia are the venues for
www.granadafestival.org music, ballet, contemporary dance, the ceremonies and showings.
flamenco shows, and more. The
images of Baremboim conducting at the Palace of Charles V
and the shows in the Patio of the Myrtles or the Generalife in
the Alhambra have been seen all over the world. 958 224 963

Flamenco Encounters F-4


CITY BREAK
GRANADA AUTUMN FES-
TIVAL. Flamenco in Granada centuries. It is a way of life and it has its
is spelt with a capital F. The own festival in the city of Granada, the
very special brand of flamen- “Flamenco Encounters” cycle, held
co heard here has grown up during the Autumn Festival and which is
from a mix of cultures, from a great opportunity to see big names like
the dance of the Zambra and José Mercé, Antonio Canales, Chocolate
the music played and sung in or Chano Lobato.
the Sacromonte caves for

F-4 On the Jazz Beat F-4 Sensual Argentina


CITY BREAK CITY BREAK

INTERNATIONAL JAZZ FESTI- TANGO FESTIVAL.


VAL. Considered one of the During the month of
oldest and greatest festivals in March, the Argenti-
Europe and the only one in nian accent rings out
Spain to belong to the Europe in the Isabel la Cató-
Jazz Network, this event has lica Theatre, which
captivated lovers of good mu- becomes the chosen
sic for almost thirty years. Since venue for the annual
its beginnings in 1980, many Tango Festival, an in-
big names from Spain and teresting music scene
abroad have contributed to its initiative with cultural
fame - Miles Davis, Oscar Pe- exchange in mind which has made Granada a reference
terson, Tete Montoliu, Dizzy point in the tango world. As well as shows there are a wide
Gillespie, Wayne Shorter, Cha- range of parallel activities on offer including seminars,
no Domínguez and more. dance classes, midnight per-
958 215 980 formances, conferences, ex- 958 272 233-958 294 219
www.jazzgranada.net hibitions and film cycles. www.eltango.com

36 37
Cultural Granada
E-6 The Potter’s Tradition H-3 The Cave of the Seven Palaces
COUNTRY BREAK COUNTRY BREAK
GUADIX POTTERY FESTIVAL.
A Moorish cave used for hun-
dreds of years as a dwelling has
been restored and turned into a
Museum by the potter Juan
Manuel Gabarrón. Inside its
different rooms (bedroom, lar-
der, kitchen, stable) visitors can
admire all kinds of ceramic
objects created over the centu-
ries together with an ancient
San Miguel, 46 (Guadix) potter’s wheel, furniture, far- ALMUÑÉCAR ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM. This museum
958 664 767 ming implements and clothing. is housed in a succession of vaults surrounding the Hill of San
Miguel, an unusual Roman construction with seven transver-
se naves, declared a Monument of Cultural Interest.
Valuable Egyptian objects taken to the ancient city of Sexi by
The Goddess of Galera C-9 the Phoenicians are on show, and of particular interest are the
cinerary urn of the Pharaoh Apophis I, dating from the 17th –
COUNTRY BREAK 16th centuries B.C., and other objects such
as the Phoenician lion from the Phoeni-
GALERA MUSEUM. Opened in cian/Punic Necropolis of Puente de Noy,
2001, the collections here faithfully from the 8th century B.C. or the fragment
reflect the region’s history. On the of a statue of the goddess Minerva found
upper floor visitors can learn about at the El Majuelo fish-salting factory.
the Prehistory of the Tableland,
while on the ground floor there are Cave of the Seven Palaces (Almuñécar)
exhibits centring on three different 958 631 252
chrono-cultural periods – the Ibe-
rian Culture, particularly relevant in
Galera as the important Necropolis
of Tutugi was discovered here con- The Warrior’s Home D-8
taining the statue of the Goddess of COUNTRY BREAK
San Marcos, 9 (Galera) Galera (an exact reproduction is on
show), the Roman period, and the BAZA ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM. The town of Baza
958 739 276
Mediaeval era. and its surrounding area were settled continuously and inten-
sively from Neolithic times onwards by numerous different
cultures, attracted by its fertile land and strategic position for
trade with the Mediterranean populations. Valuable exhibits
H-4 A Cult to Sugar from these civilisations are on show at the Museum, particu-
larly from the settlers who led the area to its greatest
COUNTRY BREAK
splendour, the Bastetanians. Of particular interest is the
PRE-INDUSTRIAL SUGAR Warrior’s Torso, a fune-
MUSEUM. This unusual mu- rary urn discovered in one
seum is an introduction to the of the necropolises of the
sugar cane industry in Motril. ancient Basti. The statue
The industry has a 1000-year of the Lady of Baza, the
history behind it and is of original of which is on dis-
interest for two reasons: the play at the Archaeological
unusual nature of the crop Museum of Madrid, was
and the landscape forming its also found on this site.
backdrop, and the wide range of pre-industrial manufac-
turing implements on show, archaeological remains disco-
Plaza Mayor, 1
vered in the Casa de la Tourist Information Office of Motril
(Baza)
Palma on its restoration. 958 838 378 958 703 555

38 39
Cultural Granada
F-5 The Secrets of the Mountain C-10 Prehistoric Orce
COUNTRY BREAK COUNTRY BREAK
JOSEP GIBERT PREHISTORY
MUSEUM OF THE MOUN- AND PALAEONTOLOGY MU-
TAIN. This unusual museum is SEUM. Inside the Keep of the
the only one of its kind in Spain. Alcazaba of the Seven To-
It was opened on 5 June 2002 wers, at Orce, this museum
by the famous Tyrolese moun- contains many valuable ar-
taineer Reinhold Messner, chaeological objects found in
and has since become a sanc- the surrounding area. The first
tuary for mountaineering fans. of its rooms is dedicated to the
Located inside the El Dornajo region’s fauna, with remains of
Visitors’ Centre in Sierra feline species now extinct, the
Nevada, it displays everything second room displays fractions
connected to the world of clim- from archaeological sites and
bing – materials, mountain con- whole limestone sections con-
quests, legends, scale models, taining fossils, and the last
photographs, historical books room contains the remains of
and more. lithic industries proving that
Orce Alcazaba human settlement existed in
Ctra. de Sierra Nevada, km. 23 958 746 101 the area a million years ago.
958 340 625
www.eldornajo.com
Jazz on the Coast H-3
COUNTRY BREAK
Cultural Exchange D-8 ALMUÑÉCAR JAZZ
COUNTRY BREAK FESTIVAL. A week of
free jazz concerts to suit
BAZA INTERNATIONAL POPULAR MUSIC AND all tastes, performed
DANCE FESTIVAL. Since it was first held in 1986, this against the beautiful
festival has showcased different countries’ national fol- backdrop of the Ma-
klore and has excellent acceptance by the public due to juelo Park at the foot
both its high quality and the variety of different groups of the Castle of San
and musicians who have taken part, coming from Miguel. The castle is the
Poland, the Ivory Coast, Russia, Algeria and Morocco, emblem of this well-
amongst other countries. seasoned event, Anda-
Tourist Information Office of Baza lucia’s southernmost
festival, which has be-
958 861 325
come an essential part
of the Granada sum-
mer. For almost twenty
years we have been
able to enjoy the music
and the talent of big
names like Paquito de
Rivera, Barbara Hen-
dricks, Richard Bona,
Deborah Coleman or
the legendary bluesman
Taj Mahal.

958 631 125


www.jazzgranada.com

40 41
Cultural Granada
The Trovo Singers G-5 E-2 The Roots of Music
COUNTRY BREAK COUNTRY BREAK
TRADITIONAL MUSIC FES- PARAPANDA FOLK. In the last week of July, the villa-
TIVAL OF THE ALPUJA- ge of Íllora is the venue for one of the most interesting
RRAS. The ancestral art of socio-cultural events in the whole of Spain, with a gre-
the “trovo”, a popular com- atly varied line-up and a wealth of traditional music.
position spoken or sung by Many big names on the folk scene have played at this
two performers who improvi- Festival. Luar Na Lubre, Hevia, Kepa Junkera, Ismael, Las
se rhymed verse, makes this Hijas del Sol, are just some of a total of almost 200 solo
travelling festival an event of artists and groups.
exceptional interest. It can be 958 433 901
caught up with in various www.parapandafolk.com
Alpujarran villages in the
provinces of Almería and
Granada and has been held
for over twenty years, attrac-
ting a large audience who
come to hear these couplets
with lyrics that generally
verse on present-day themes,
especially the region’s politi-
cal problems.

H-3 The Chords of a Guitar


COUNTRY BREAK

musical quality of the win-


ning guitarists”. His condi-
tion is still keenly observed Classical Airs E-6
today, making this an inter- COUNTRY BREAK
nationally renowned and “CLASSICAL GUADIX” INTER-
highly prestigious contest. NATIONAL CONCERT CYCLE.
When spring comes around, the
squares, churches and palaces
Tourist Information Office of Guadix come alive to the
of Almuñécar strains of classical music. For
958 631 125 more than ten years now the
town has held concerts by
important classical line-ups such
ANDRÉS SEGOVIA CLAS- as The Bulgarian Voices, the
SICAL GUITAR CONTEST. Frankfurt Philharmonic Or-
A devotee of the village of chestra and the South London
La Herradura, the brilliant Classical Orchestra. The Festival
guitarist Andrés Segovia includes an ever-widening and
was delighted to give his ambitious range of styles - fla-
name in the mid-eighties menco, ballet, classical thea-
to a competition for this tre and contemporary dance.
noble Spanish instrument,
on the condition that “we
must be particularly de-
Tourist Information Office of Guadix
manding as regards the
958 662 665

42 43
Following the Steps of Lorca
The Poet’s Summer Residence F-4 E-3 The Poet and his Family
CITY BREAK COUNTRY BREAK
HUERTA DE SAN VICENTE. Formerly named
the “Garden of the Dumb”, this property was
given as a present to his family in 1925 by Fede- HOUSE OF VALDERRU-
rico García, the father of the famous Granada BIO. When Lorca was a
poet Federico García Lorca, and the writer spent small child, his family
his summers there from then on. He wrote his moved from Fuente-
famous work The Blood Wedding in one of vaqueros to the village of
the rooms of the house, with its views over Valderrubio, where his
the Sierra Nevada and the Alhambra. It is father owned a small
now a museum and the original furnitu- farmhouse. Lorca’s life in
re and objects as Lorca would have seen
them are on view to visitors. Granada’s
largest park, bearing the poet’s this house, and the
name, stands close to the house. atmosphere of the
village and its people,
Virgen Blanca, s/n went on to have a
958 258 466 strong influence in his
work and he used the
place as inspiration
for his plays Yerma
and The House of
Bernarda Alba.

The Earth Pays Homage E-4


COUNTRY BREAK

E-3 The Birth of a Poet


COUNTRY BREAK
LORCA’S BIRTHPLACE IN
FUENTEVAQUEROS. The
author of the Gypsy Ballads
and A Poet in New York was
born in this house on the Gra-
nada Plain on 5 June 1898. It
has now been restored and
houses a wealth of exhibits,
from Lorca’s manuscripts and FEDERICO GARCÍA LORCA PARK IN ALFACAR. This
first editions to his sketches Poeta Federico García Lorca, 4 park was opened in 1986 and is located at the Barranco
for theatre scenery and perso- (Fuentevaqueros) de Víznar, the scene of the writer’s tragic death.
nal letters. Works by painters, 958 516 453 Dedicated “to the memory of Federico García Lorca and
musicians and other relevant to that of all the victims of the Civil War”, every year on
contemporaries of the writer - Rafael Alberti, Salvador Dalí, August 18 a simple night-time ceremony is held beside
Picasso, Francisco Bores, Ismael de la Serna and many more - the stone column erected in honour of the poet, with a
relating to the poet’s life and works are also on display. concert and recital of Lorca’s poetry.

44 45
For the Kids
Science for All F-4 F-4 An Afternoon at the Bowling Alley
CITY BREAK CITY BREAK
PARK OF THE SCIENCES. These leisure comple-
Numerous theme rooms xes, specially created
and interactive displays for children to enjoy,
bursting with curiosities have bowling alleys, a
and surprises place a big selection of video
whole scientific universe games, pool, table
within the reach of visi- football and recrea-
tors. You can experience tional games. Fun is
the effects of a simulated guaranteed.
earthquake, see an eclipse of the sun or take a journey
through the stars in the huge Planetarium. An entertaining
plant maze, a tropical butterfly enclosure, a giant chess
GRANADA BOWLING OZONO BOWLING
game and the astronomy
Ctra. de Armilla Cortijo Piedrahita, Bulevar Billy Wilder, s/n
garden are some of the
Avda. del Mediterráneo, s/n 958 183 154 958 189 000
other attractions on offer.
958 131 900

Interpreting Sacromonte F-4


CITY BREAK

F-4 Camera Obscura


CITY BREAK
THE EYE OF GRANADA.
This original tourist attraction
combines learning with SACROMONTE INTERPRETATION CENTRE. This Centre,
entertainment in a dream set- with its two exhibition spaces, is located in the heart of the
ting, where modern architec- Sacromonte quarter, an area with a great cultural and heri-
ture blends into an ancient tage value. The first of the spaces, the Ethnographical
Moorish bathhouse. It does Museum, recreates the
this through two unusual cave habitat and the cus-
audio-visual spaces – a pro- toms of their dwellers.
jection room providing a The second space is a
dynamic journey through the Cruz de Quirós, 12 Nature Room where
whole of Granada province, 958 202 473 detailed information can
and a camera obscura, a be gained on the area’s
system used by Leonardo Da Vinci and which gives visitors a natural surroundings and
bird’s eye view of the city, with moving images in real time. the flora and fauna, and
it contains a traditional
orchard, a botanical gar-
den and a scale model of Barranco de los Negros, s/n
the River Darro Valley. 958 215 120

46 47
For the Kids
H-3 A Garden on the Coast H-3 A Cooling Dip
COUNTRY BREAK COUNTRY BREAK
Aquatropic
EL MAJUELO” BOTANICAL AND ARCHAEOLOGICAL WATER PARKS. Slide Playa de Velilla - Almuñécar
PARK. Standing at the foot of the Castle of San Miguel in down the helter-skelter 958 633 316
Almuñécar, this park contains a large number of the exotic chutes or the steep soft
plants that grow in this part of the province as a result of its slides with their bends and drops, dive into the wave pool,
sub-tropical climate and the board a pirate galleon or sail the rapids. The ideal day out
warm temperatures the area for families who want to
enjoys. Alongside the valuable spend an exciting day at
remains of the Punic/Roman Aquaola
fish-salting factory, 182 diffe- Ctra. de Sierra Nevada, km.4 one of the province’s
Cenes de la Vega water parks.
rent plant species grow here,
originally coming from Africa, 958 486 189
South and Central America,
China, India, New Zealand
and Polynesia.
Tourist Information Office
of Almuñécar
958 631 125

Parrots and Ostriches H-3


COUNTRY BREAK
LORO SEXI BIRD PARK. Located
just 100 metres from the seafront
on the hill up to the Moorish Castle
of Almuñécar, the park is home to
some 1.500 birds of almost 200
different species. This fascinating
selection includes birds ranging
from the common rock pigeon to
spectacular peacocks and including On Ice F-5
brightly-coloured parrots, cockato- COUNTRY BREAK
os, macaws, swans and ducks. The
youngest members of the family will
have particular fun watching the SIERRA NEVADA
antics of the ostriches. Oficina de Turismo de SKATING RINK.
Almuñécar With room for
958 631 125 200 skaters, this
is one of the very
few outdoor ice
rinks in Spain.
Located at the
Sierra Nevada
Ski Resort, it is
an excellent point
of encounter and
a great leisure area, perfect for fun-seekers.

Sierra Nevada Ski Resort


Plaza Andalucía, s/n
958 481 369

48 49
Romantic Granada
Oriental Dreams F-4 F-4 The Paseo de los Tristes
CITY BREAK CITY BREAK
GENERALIFE Point of encounter for the people of Granada, this square besi-
GARDENS. Out- de the River Darro takes its curious name from the funeral pro-
side the Alham- cessions which used to pass through it before winding their
bra walls stands way up to the cemetery. Also named the Paseo del Padre
the summer pala- Manjón (Boulevard of
ce of the Sultans, Father Manjón) in
made into one of honour of the monk
the world’s most who founded a school
beautiful gardens for poor children in
by water and the Sacromonte, one of its
dreams of man. main attractions is the
The Upper Garden stands beside the Water Patio and the magnificent view of
Sultan’s Courtyard and is filled with myrtles, pools and the sun going down
ancient cypress trees, and the refreshing sound of water behind the Alhambra,
pervades the atmosphere which can be watched
like background music. Enclosure of the Alhambra
from one of the many
902 441 221
outdoor café tables in
this popular place.

Artists’ Inspiration F-4


CITY BREAK
CARRERA DEL DARRO. The River Darro, named the
Aurus or River of Gold as the ancient settlers used to of the Hazel Tree, a
wash this precious metal on its banks, flowed through literary association
the centre of the mediaeval town and was crossed by headed by the wri-
several bridges such as the Moorish bridge of Cadí, ter Ángel Ganivet,
which linked the Albaicín quarter to the Alhambra. were held. Art, his-
Another bridge which still stands today is the Aljibillo tory and legend
Bridge, leading to the so-called Fountain of the come together in
Hazel Tree, where the meetings of the Brotherhood this place chosen by
numerous artists as
their place of work.

F-4 Hidden Paradises The Colours of Bib-Rambla F-4


CITY BREAK CITY BREAK
THE CÁRMENS. Behind
high whitewashed walls dra- Formerly the back-
ped with creepers and ivy, a drop for fiestas,
whole private, hidden world jousts, bullfights, tra-
of Andalusian charm is to be ding, horse fairs and
found in these beautiful gar- even public execu-
dens and orchards, the tions and the bur-
Carmens of the Albaicín, ning of manuscripts
tiny farmsteads brimming and books, the Plaza
with colour and exuberance Bib-Rambla is today
and inundating the city with the nerve centre of Granada life. The Fountain of the
their perfume of roses and jasmine the whole year round. Giants stands in its centre, surrounded by all the flower
Some of them have been turned into museums and top stalls that have made this square famous.
class restaurants.

50 51
Romantic Granada
Touching the Sky F-4 F-4 The Magic of Sacromonte
CITY BREAK CITY BREAK
MIRADORS. You can get to know Granada by wandering through
its narrow streets, trying the tapas in its bars or visiting its monu-
ments, but there is also another way to capture its essence – by
contemplating the marvellous views to be had from its many high
vantage points. The view from the San Nicolás mirador, with the
Alhambra in the background, is found on hundreds of postcards,
and those from the Cruz de Rauda or Cruz de la Lona give a pri-
vileged panorama of the Christian domes and towers. From San
Cristóbal, one single picture is formed of the snowy peaks of the
Sierra Nevada, the fertile plains and the Moorish city walls.

There is no logic to Sacromonte, with its cave houses dug


out of the legendary sacred mountain, the Monte Sacro del
Valparaíso; mystery is more what defines this part of Granada
that has been the inspiration behind so many poets’ verses,
with its dense moon-like gardens of prickly pear and aloe.
The chronicles tell us that the first settlers in this quarter were
the gypsies who arrived with the Christian troops of the
Catholic Monarchs, for whom they worked as metal crafts-
men. Their song and dance merged with the Andalusí musical
traditions and the dance of the zambra was born, an ances-
tral flamenco with steps based on the gypsy wedding dances.

The Cave House Tradition


COUNTRY BREAK
The Moors who settled in the province for centuries had alre-
ady occupied some of the primitive cave houses found here,
taking advantage of their natural benefits. The cave dwe-
llings are a result of the special mountainous nature of this
area and an inseparable part of the history and
tradition of the two Granada regions in which
they are found - Guadix y Marquesado and
Baza-Huéscar, El Altiplano. Alongside
extensive residential areas there are some
charming tourist complexes of refurbished
cave dwellings, where the whitewash of the
façades and chimneys contrasts with the
bright ochre of the land, and they are ideal
for a weekend getaway.

52 53
Romantic Granada

G-5-6-7 The Charm of Simplicity The Route of the Snow-Bearers


COUNTRY BREAK COUNTRY BREAK
Today this footpath running through the Natural Park of
Sierra Nevada is a beautiful route much travelled by trek-
kers and nature-lovers, but in the past it was used for many
years by the “neveros” or snow-bearers to bring down
snow from the high peaks to the city. During winter the
snow was stored inside wells where it was compressed and
turned into ice, and the wells were then covered until sum-
mer when ice was in great demand, basically for the con-
servation of food and medicines.

ALPUJARRAN ARCHITECTURE. If the cave-houses are an


inseparable part of the province’s character, the typical buil-
dings of the Granada Alpujarra region are even more so, and
they are one of the most significant elements to be found in
this area. Villages are perched high up on hilltops and have
cobbled or earthen streets pierced by Moorish water chan-
nels, and the characteristic Alpujarran houses are built with
slate flagstones, stone, clay, reeds and launa, an impermea-
ble greyish clay applied to the flat roofs, and equipped with
the characteristic “tinao”, an overhead walkway covering
the house’s main entrance and even overhanging part of the
street. Chimneys round off the houses almost like hats.
The Paseo de las Flores H-4
COUNTRY BREAK
F-4 Boabdil’s Farewell
COUNTRY BREAK The parks and observation
points of the coastal town
THE SIGH OF THE MOOR. This is the name given to a of Salobreña provide privi-
mountain just outside Granada, in the area of Otura, leged views of the specta-
where legend has it that the Moorish king Boabdil, on his cular surrounding scenery.
way to exile, looked back on the city he had lost, sighed Visitors can head for the
and began to cry, whereupon his mother uttered the Caleta down the Camino
famous phrase: “You do well to weep like a woman for del Gambullón, alongside
what you could not defend like a man”. tropical fruit plantations
and impressive rock faces,
and passing the only sugar
cane factory functioning in
Europe, to reach the Mira-
dor de la Caleta Garden
or venture into the colour-
ful Paseo de las Flores,
profoundly Moorish with the
perfume of its exotic plants.

54 55
Romantic Granada
A Sea of Clouds G-5 F-6 From Bloomsbury to Yegen
COUNTRY BREAK COUNTRY BREAK
BTHE POQUEIRA RAVINE. No traveller has been able to resist
contemplating this unique little corner, a treat for the eyes and
the spirit which seems to have been conjured up by a fertile
imagination. The ravine, created thousands of years ago by the
Poqueira River on its descent from the Sierra Nevada to the
beaches of the Costa Tropical, takes the form of a huge V with
chestnut, walnut and oak trees and terraced crops clinging to
its zigzagging walls. Looking down on the scene are three
beautiful white villages: Pampaneira, Bubión and Capileira.

GERALD BRENAN. The British writer, closely linked to the


Bloomsbury group which included writers and artists such
as Virginia Wolf and Bertrand Russell, gave up the sophis-
ticated atmosphere of Gordon Square and Great Russell
Street for the tranquillity and the local colour of the
Granada Alpujarra, and committed all this to writing in
his classic work “South from Granada”. This great
Hispanist settled in the village of Yegen in 1920, where he
spent over a decade, fascinated by the character of its peo-
ple, the traditions and customs and the Moorish legacy.

Romantic Travellers
COUNTRY BREAK
THE WASHINGTON IRVING ROUTE. During the
Middle Ages this historical route was an impor-
tant trade road between the Nasrid king-
dom and the Christian dominions, and to
travel it is to relive the journey made in
1829 between Seville and Granada by the
American romantic writer and diplomat
after whom it is named. He was seduced by
Europe and captivated by the exoticism and
exuberance of the Hispano-Moorish civilisa-
tion in Andalucia, and is the author of the
famous work “Tales of the Alhambra”.
Fundación El Legado Andalusí
958 225 995
www.legadoandalusi.es

57
The Flavours of Granada
Tapa-Sampling in Granada F-4 F-4 Moorish Tea-Houses
CITY BREAK CITY BREAK
“Tapa-sampling”, the art of
enjoying delicious cuisine in Around the Albai-
miniature, has its own speci- cín and in the stre-
fic character in this area. ets of central Gra-
This local tradition has beco- nada, the Moorish
me an important social rou- roots of the city can be
tine and brings locals and doubly “enjoyed” at the
visitors together at the out- teterías or Arabic tea houses, many
door café tables in the of which can be found in Calle
squares in summer, or inside Calderería Nueva and Calle Calderería
the little bars all year round, Vieja. They are the perfect setting for trying
and it is favoured by the city’s excellent climate and the a pot of aromatic Moorish tea accompanied
friendly nature of its people. by some delicious Arabic pastries.
In the city Granada itself, this cheap and cheerful way of sam-
pling the region’s traditional cooking can be found in areas such
as the Plaza Nueva and the Albaicín quarter, in the Centre in
the streets around the Cathedral and the Royal Chapel, Calle
Alhamar, the Plaza Bib-Rambla and the Campo del Príncipe
in the Realejo quarter.

Convent Sweets F-4


CITY BREAK
The Christians inherited their taste for cakes and pastries from the
Mozarabs and the Mudejars, learning to use their ingredients such
as honey, sugar and almonds, and after the Moors had gone the ci-
ty’s convents became the
main creators of these sweet
articles. The tradition has linge-
red on throughout the centu-
ries, and some of these con-
vent sweets are quite famous
today, such as the huevos
moles of San Antón made of
egg yolks, sugar and cinna-
mon, the almond cakes pre-
pared by the Tomasas order,
the mojicones or sponges of
the nuns of the Encarnación,
the hojarasca biscuits of Santa
Isabel la Real, the powdery
alfajores biscuits of Santa
Catalina of Zafra or the deli-
cious syrup cakes made by the
Comendadoras of Santiago
and at the Monastery of San

58 59
The Flavours of Granada
F-4 A World of Gourmet Cuisine
CITY BREAK

Granada can certainly congratulate


itself on its wide range of restaurants
to suit all tastes and pockets, from
authentic little taverns to top class
restaurants serving Spanish and inter-
national cuisine, and its many establis-
hments offering creative, innovative dis-
hes for adventurous pallets.
A huge number of restaurants serve
tasty local fare. In the upper part of the
Albaicín these can be found around the
Cuesta del Chapiz and the Puerta de
Fajalauza. In the historic city centre,
they occupy representative areas such
as the Plaza Nueva, the Pescadería,
Plaza de Isabel la Católica, Milagro,
Escudo del Carmen and, heading
towards the River Genil, in Calle Navas

and Plaza de Mariana Pineda. There


are also establishments of this kind near
the Bullring and in the Antequeruela
Baja, in the Realejo quarter.
Restaurants serving interna-
tional cuisine can be found
in the newer areas of the city,
around the wide boule-
vards housing the con-
temporary social scene.
There are several exotic,
colourful Italian, Chinese
and Moroccan restaurants
behind the Gran Vía de
Colón in the Avenida de la
Fuente Nueva, Avenida Divi-
na Pastora, Avenida de los
Andaluces and Calle Doctor
Severo Ochoa.

61
The Flavours of Granada
Traditional Cooking Quality Wines
COUNTRY BREAK COUNTRY BREAK
The province’s inland area and the sierra has its own dis-
tinctive cuisine: heart-warming home cooking consisting The traditional wines
of thick stews, broths and soups, responding to the cold here are made from
climate, the hard work on the farms and the influence the grapes grown in
from the Navarrans and Manchegans who repopulated the vineyards on the
these lands. Olla de San Antón, Puchero de Hinojos Sierra de la Contra-
and Sopa de Guadix are typical dishes that share a space viesa hillsides, on the
on the table with top quality meats, cured cheese, and border with the pro-
hams such as those of the prestigious Trevélez variety. vince of Almería, but
wines produced by
the small bodegas
and cooperatives of

the Almería Poniente regions,


the Granada Alpujarra and the
Costa Tropical, particularly the
area of Jete, famous for its cus-
tard apples, are also gaining
much ground. These high quality
wines are still produced small-
scale, and are very much in
demand from the province’s best
restaurants.

Our Exotic Coast


F-1 Caviar from El Poniente COUNTRY BREAK
The Costa Tropical can boast one of most varied and
COUNTRY BREAK
characteristic ranges of cuisine in Andalusia. In addi-
tion to the fish and seafood of all types,
RIOFRÍO FISH FARM. there are also numerous vegetables and
After almost twenty years the region is especially proud of its
of research, the Granada tropical fruit. The hot temperatures
firm Sierra Nevada, own- and low rainfall in the area favour
ers of the Riofrío Fish these fruits and they are used in
Farm, have succeeded in exotic, creative recipes such as
marketing the first Spa- cherimoya tart, chicken and avoca-
nish sturgeon caviar, an do salad and spicy mango sauce.
exquisite treat for the pal-
let only affordable by the
few. Products that can be acquired apart from caviar are
fillet of smoked sturgeon,
trout and different varieties
of organically produced pas-
tes and patés.

Camino de la Piscifactoría, 2
(Riofrío)
958 322 621

62
Shopping
The Silk Market F-4 The Latest Leisure Centres F-4
THE ALCAICERÍA. The shopping
CITY BREAK CITY BREAK
area with the most history is loca-
ted between the Cathedral and
Calle Reyes Católicos. Centuries
ago this area was occupied by
Granada’s Great Bazar and the
famous Moorish silk market
which spread from Plaza Nueva to
Bib-Rambla. It survived until the
night of 19 July 1843, when it
was reduced to ashes by a fire in a
match shop in Calle Mesones.
Today a replica market in neo-
Moorish style houses shops
mainly selling traditional and
craft products.

SHOPPING MALLS. The city’s shopping malls, outside the city


centre, are equipped with all amenities and facilities and hou-
sed in large modern innovative-style buildings. The most
emblematic of these, such as the Neptuno Shopping Centre,
are around Calle Arabial, and in addition to fashion and jewe-
llery shops, shoe shops and big department stores they also
have a good selection of bars, restaurants, cafés and cinemas.

F-4 A Shopping Day


CITY BREAK
of the big fashion
and accessories firms.
The historic city Some other streets,
centre of Granada popular with visitors
is also a great and shoppers, are
open centre for Alhóndiga, San An-
shopping and is tón, Ángel Ganivet,
renowned for the Recogidas, Puente-
quality of its es- zuelas and Zacatín,
tablishments. Some whose name actually
of the city’s oldest means “clothes mar-
shops are grouped ket” and was where
around the Gran textiles and fabrics
Vía de Colón, used to be sold in
Calle Reyes Cató- Moorish times.
licos and Calle
Mesones is the
favourite showcase

64 65
Shopping
The Luthiers Jarapa Rugs from the Alpujarras
COUNTRY BREAK COUNTRY BREAK
String instruments are made The Alpujarra has always been one of the main areas in the
by Granada’s luthiers, who province for textile manufacturing. It was one of the principal
together with the Madrid producers of silk during the Nasrid reign and was also where
luthiers are the most presti- much of the weaving was carried out. Although the produc-
gious in Spain, and famous tion processes have gradually become mechanised, there are
abroad. Numerous concert still numerous looms which are used to make the attractive
performers and renowned and colourful jarapas, traditional blankets made from left
music professionals come to over pieces of cloth which are also used as rugs and curtains.
the workshops in the They are one of the most typical products of the area.
Albaicín and the Cuesta
de Gomérez in Granada
itself, or to Baza, Lanjarón,
La Tahá or La Zubia in the
rest of the province, to have
their guitars, lutes and ban-
durrias made by these
skilled craftsmen.

E-6 Accitan Pottery


COUNTRY BREAK
In the Guadix y Marque-
sado region, traditional
pottery has been crafted
for centuries and has be-
come a genuine emblem of
the area. Localities such as
Guadix and Purullena are
today the base for the
widest and most varied po-
pular pottery production,
and the star product is the
highly decorated jug called
the “Accitan Jug” or “Jug
of Birds”. Other typical
articles that make an ideal
gift are bulls, zambomba
drums and oil lamps.

66 67
Ocio
Health
y noche
and Leisure
Healthy Granada
COUNTRY BREAK
Alicún de las Torres, Graena The hotel complexes and
and Lanjarón. sports clubs such as the
In Spain’s larger cities the pace Montebajo in the Sierra
of life is fast, and those who Nevada are well aware of the
do not have time to travel to a ever-growing trend for com-
spa for relaxation have been bining tourism with health
catered for over the last and relaxation, and they now
decades by the numerous city include health professionals
spas. Granada has five esta- and physiotherapists on their
blishments of this type: the staff, widening their
O2 Neptuno Wellness offer to include sau-
Centre, Mas Vital, the City nas, Turkish baths,
Spa Aguavida, and the Bal- massage, jacuzzis
The numerous springs nearia Sol y Agua. and more.
with their mineral and
medicinal properties have
been one of the province’s
main attractions since
ancient times. The Greeks,
the Romans and the
Moors were all great
lovers of comfort, relax-
ation and the body beauti-
ful, they channelled these
waters into their spas and
baths. The centres have
gradually changed over
time and are now modern
spas where state-of-the-
art treatments and thera-
pies can be received.
There are four spas in the
province, all of them
top-class establishments,
at Alhama de Granada,

68 69
Out on the town
Flamenco Moon F-4 F-4 Downtown Drinks
The Sacromonte quarter, the CITY BREAK CITY BREAK
traditional home of the city’s
gypsy dwellers, holds all the Granada’s 60.000-strong
beauty and magic of Andalu- student population ma-
sian flamenco, which in Grana- kes this an emblematic
da has its own particular charm. university city, bringing a
Apart from the Zambra danc- lively, cosmopolitan at-
ing, partly Moorish and partly mosphere to its streets
gypsy in origin, there are also a and making its mark on
number of flamenco associa- the city’s vibrant nightlife.
tions such as La Platería, one of The first stop on a night
Spain’s best. It is therefore easy for visitors to enjoy an impres- out is usually to partake
sive show of flamenco song and dance, either at a traditional of some of the traditional
“tablao” or in the caves. These are internationally famous and tapas, as no-one likes to
have been visited by Nobel prize-winners, Hollywood filmstars move to the music on an
and leading politicians, all of them captivated by this histori- empty stomach. The area
cal dance with its three separate parts - the alboreá, the around Calle Pedro An-
cachucha and the mosca - symbolising the three key moments tonio de Alarcón is tra-
in a gypsy wedding. ditionally the main night-
life haunt for Granada’s
younger set, although it has spread to different areas of
the city and today there is a huge choice of bars and pubs,
each with their own special atmosphere. Live music is on
offer at weekends. Another appealing area is Calle Elvira
and its side streets, with numerous nightlife possibilities
ranging from select venues
where formal dress is a must
to drinks bars attracting an
alternative crowd.
Close to Elvira is the Central
area, and the Gran Vía, the
Paseo de los Tristes and the
Plaza Nueva are the gather-
ing place for a slightly older
crowd, who head for the
F-4 Bohemian Nights glow of the legendary bars at
the foot of the Alhambra. Just
CITY BREAK
below the Bullring there is also a great area where some of
In the historical centre of Granada close to the city’s the city’s trendiest bars and discos are open till dawn.
main nightlife area, a lively atmosphere is to be found Lastly, for those wishing to dance techno and house till
in the alternative bars and cafés at different times they drop, the big discos and after hours clubs are to be
of the day. These are the ideal place to meet friends, found just outside the city.
drink a cappuccino, enjoy a chat and listen to music.
Jazz has always had a great following in Granada,
partly as a result of
the city’s International
Festival which has
been held for the last
quarter of a century,
and it can be heard at
haunts like the Club
Eshavira or the Bo-
hemia Jazz Café.

70
Granada s Nature
Sea and Sierra G-2-3 E-4-5 Granada’s Green Space
COUNTRY BREAK COUNTRY BREAK
spectacular views over the
Mediterranean are to be had
from its summits including
the Maroma peak. Its prox-
imity to the sea and its sharp
ridges and deep ravines
make it similar in appearance
to the Picos de Europa, and
this range is in fact almost
NATURAL PARK OF THE symmetrical within the Ibe-
SIERRAS OF TEJEDA, rian Peninsula. The moun-
ALMIJARA AND ALHAMA. tains are rich in history and SIERRA DE HUÉTOR NATURAL PARK. Central to the
Covering an area of 40.600 legend, are covered in an province and close to the city of Granada, this Natural Park
hectares, this park consists of extraordinary yew forest and consists of a series of sierras with narrow ravines, escarp-
an impressive mountainous have a great variety of flora ments and streams. A huge wood of pine, ilex and some
massif forming a natural bar- and fauna, particularly moun- gall oak trees is the habitat of a variety of fauna. The
rier between the provinces of tain goats and large birds karstic formations in the
Málaga and Granada, and of prey. area are particularly beauti-
ful, and also of note are the
Agua Cave and the moun-
tain springs.

Puerto Lobo
Visitors Centre
958 540 426

The Sierra of Castril B-8


COUNTRY BREAK
C-8 The Breathtaking Badlands SIERRA DE CASTRIL NATUR-
AL PARK. This park forms part
province. There is also a variety
of wildlife, from butterflies
COUNTRY BREAK of the municipal district of exclusive to the Iberian Penin-
SIERRA DE BAZA NATURAL PARK. In open contrast to the Castril and is crossed from sula to mountain goats and
greenery and abundant waters of the sierra, the base of El North to South by the river of birds of prey such as the griffon
Altiplano is covered in marl and gypsum, giving way to a high- the same name, whose waters vulture, the peregrine falcon
ly unusual steppe landscape of badlands. Deep gullies and are inhabited by otters and and the Egyptian vulture.
ravines make this brown trout. Its main character-
area a spectacular istic is the spectacular nature
sight, practically of its mountains with their
unique in Spain. numerous abysses, caves and
This type of land- galleries. In the Sierra Seca the
scape can be seen Cueva del Muerto or Dead
both in the Sierra Man’s Cave can be found, with
of Baza and beautiful stalactite and stalag-
around the Ne- mite formations, as well as the
gratín Lake. Cave of Don Fernando, the
deepest and longest in the

Narváez Visitors Centre Castril Visitors Centre


958 002 018 958 720 059

72 73
Granada s Nature
The Heart of El Altiplano C-8 F-4 The Cahorros of Monachil
COUNTRY BREAK COUNTRY BREAK
NEGRATÍN LAKE. This is Andalucia’s third largest reservoir
as regards capacity. It is surrounded by a sub-desert and
almost lunar landscape which gives the place a strange
beauty, and its romantic sunsets are particularly attractive.
A beach has been made on one of the lake’s banks taking
advantage of a natural cove, in the part of the lake belong-
ing to the municipality of Freila, and it is a fine place for
playing all kind of water sports with no need to travel as
far as the coast.

Located along the course of the River Monachil


in the Sierra Nevada, this place is spectacular
beyond words. It is a narrow mountain passage
just 2 km. from the village of Monachil, and has
sheer rock faces, grottoes, waterfalls and the
famous hanging bridge more than 63 metres
long and over a century old.

B-9 The Sierra of La Sagra The Infiernos of Loja F-1


COUNTRY BREAK
COUNTRY BREAK
SIERRA OF LA SAGRA. Located in the northernmost part of
Granada province, this mountain range towers above the
other lower sierras surrounding it. It extends over 70.000
hectares of land, rich in wildlife (especially birdlife), trees and
plants - in this aspect it resembles some of the Moroccan Atlas
mountains - and with an extremely varied landscape. It con-
tains the highest peak in Andalucía after the Sierra Nevada,
just behind the Sierras of Cazorla and Segura, and the moun-
tain is snow-capped during autumn, winter and early spring.

A Natural Monument 2 km. from the town of Loja, this


spot’s breathtaking scenery goes hand in hand with its eco-
logical value as it is the home of rare, scarce plant species
requiring a high degree of humidity to grow. The high calci-
um bicarbonate content in the water of the springs flowing
into the River Genil has led to the formation of travertines
(soft, erodable rocks), from which the river has carved out
the Alto Infierno and Bajo Infierno, and numerous
waterfalls like the Cola del
Caballo cascade impressively Tourist Information Office of Loja
down on to the rocks below. 958 323 949

74 75
Granada s Nature
The Escarpments of Alhama G-2 H-3 The Rocks of San Cristóbal
COUNTRY BREAK COUNTRY BREAK
These three impressive rocks leading out to sea on the
Almuñécar coast, with two narrow strips of water divid-
ing them, are not only a splendid natural observation
point but also an archetypal landmark on the Western
Granada coast. Declared a Natural Monument, they
separate the beaches of San Cristóbal and Caletilla, and
the emblematic Cruz del Santo also stands here.

The River Alhama flows through this striking vertical


valley formed from the rock by the sedimentation of plant
remains, animal fossils and other matter, allowing geolo-
gists to date its history. It is one of the province’s most vis-
ited spots, as a result of both its beauty and its natural and
micro-climatic conditions. Interesting sights include a mul-
titude of birds nesting high up on the cliffs, and exquisite,
unusual climbing plants.
City Council of Alhama
958 350 161

H-5 Carchuna Beach


COUNTRY BREAK Giant Redwoods at La Losa B-9
This tranquil, low-lying sandy beach extends almost 3 COUNTRY BREAK
km. along the Motril coast from the Sacratif Pro-
montory to Calahonda. Its waters are blue and crys- Few visitors can fail to be
tal-clear, and are ideal for fishing. Surrounded by inten- amazed when they con-
sive glasshouse crops, in the evening it becomes a template these huge trees
magnificent place for a stroll to watch the magnificent of up to 75 m. in height
sunsets against the backdrop of the beautiful, impres- and 7 m. in diameter, at
sive Rock of Sacratif. La Losa Farm, in
Huéscar. Redwood trees
are conifers belonging to
the Taxodiaceae family,
and they are the largest
trees on earth. The two
varieties of this tree, both
of which can be seen
here, can grow to 100
metres tall and live for
over 1000 years.

City Council of Huéscar


958 740 011
76 77
Active Granada
A Snow-Capped Sanctuary F-5 H-3 On the crest of the wave
COUNTRY BREAK COUNTRY BREAK
High speed water-scootering, riding the wind on a wind-
surfing board and sailing out to the open sea are just
some of the activities available at the coastal towns of
Almuñécar, Motril and Salobreña. A multitude of
colourful surfboards can often be seen riding the waves
in the bay of La Herradura as they make the most of
the wind, sea and perfect temperatures.

THE SIERRA NEVADA MOUNTAIN SKI STATION. This mo-


dern ski station, up in the highest mountains in the whole of
Spain and Portugal, is one of the most-visited in Europe. Its
privileged geographical location guarantees a high number of
sunny days each season and excellent weather conditions,
and goes hand in hand with the exceptional quality of its
snow and installations. The World Alpine Skiing
Championships were held here in 1996, and it has 84 km. of
pistes of varying degrees of difficulty, one of which is specially
illuminated for night-time skiing. Long-distance skiing,
snowboarding, climbing, mountaineering and even paragli-
ding down to the beaches of the Costa Tropical can all be
practised here.
Long-distance Skiing F-7
H-3-4-5 Underwater World COUNTRY BREAK
COUNTRY BREAK The mountain pass of La Ragua, where the winter
snow lasts for several months, is the best place to prac-
The Costa Tropical and areas such as tice long-distance skiing
Castell de Ferro, Calahonda, Mari- in the whole of southern
na del Este and La Herradura have Spain. Several circuits
been a divers’ paradise for decades, of different lengths have
both for the wealth of their sea beds been set up through
and the beauty of their natural land- fully grown pine woods
scapes. The numerous beaches along at a height of 2000 -
the Granada coast, particularly those 2200 metres. The use of
of the Almuñécar area, are often these forest tracks and
separated by huge rocks or by gentle paths when they are
or steep hills, which means the cliffs covered with snow incre-
and rocky areas often stretch right ases the skiable area by
into the sea and make the area per- over 100 kilometres, and
fect for diving. Some of the best spots the whole of the route is
for this sport are Punta de la Mona, Tres Picos, the Cerro practically flat.
Gordo Cave, the Cantarriján Grottoes, Piedras Altas
and the Natural Site of the Cliffs of Maro-Cerro Gordo
at La Herradura, which is a divers’ heaven. Rare posidonia
fields grow on the sea bed of this 395-hectare coastal area Consorcio Puerto de la Ragua
created by erosion. 958 760 223

78 79
Active Granada
Out to sea H-3 Long Distance Footpaths
COUNTRY BREAK COUNTRY BREAK
MARINA DEL ESTE YACHTING HARBOUR. Set beside the
luxury Marina del Este holiday complex between Nerja and
Almuñécar, the harbour has full modern installations with a
control tower, waiting dock
and slipway. For non-boat
owners, there is a hire serv-
ice available at either the
Marina itself or from one of
the area’s nautical services
companies, which organise
attractive excursions and
boat tours. A tennis club,
diving schools, cafés,
restaurants, boutiques, a
supermarket, a laundry and
a car-hire office complete
the facilities on offer.

958 827 018 GR-7. Trekking is one of the activities most in demand by
958 827 078 the visitors to the province, and the GR-7 long-distance
footpath, crossing Western Spain, is the ideal place to do
it. The Alpujarran section of the footpath, of great interest
and beauty, takes in 16 villages in Granada province and
F-1 A day’s Fishing also crosses the Lecrín Valley; it begins at the La Ragua
COUNTRY BREAK mountain pass and ends at the village of Lanjarón.

RIOFRÍO FISHING RESER-


VE. This is a fine area for
trout-angling, and fishing The Estrella Route F-5
has taken place here since COUNTRY BREAK
the 17th century. The main
rivers crossing the area are This footpath is one of the most appealing country walks in the Sierra
the Riofrío itself (from Nevada, with an abundance of rivers and plants and impressive views
which the village takes its over the North faces of the Mulhacén, Veleta and Alcazaba
name) and the River Sa- mountains. At the start of the route, after crossing the River Genil and
lado, an affluent of the the Barranco de San Juan, walkers can admire a giant chestnut tree
former. The waters of both and the ruined mines of La Probadora and La Estrella, at which
rivers have a stable flow point the Veleta mountain comes into view. The end of the route is at
throughout the year and the Secret Cave, a natural refuge surrounded by livestock enclosures.
there is no close season,

which makes angling an


attractive prospect even in
high summer.

958 323 177

80 81
Active Granada
A Bird’s Eye View The Centre of the Earth
COUNTRY BREAK COUNTRY BREAK
The semi-hidden caves and grot-
toes in the province’s sierras and
along the coast have been the
delight of speleologists for deca-
des. Some of the most interesting
caves are those in the Poniente
Granadino, the Costa Tropical
(Los Vados and the Cueva de las
Palomas) and the Sierra Nevada
(Cerro del Calar, the Collado del
Alguacil and the Collado de las
Víboras in the Sierra of Güéjar).

Pump your Adrenaline


The mild temperatures and good geographical condi- PROVINCIA
tions of the province of Granada make it one of the favourite The sport and adventure
destinations for fans of free flying, hang-gliding and activities on offer also cater for
paragliding. Flyers can take off from the impressive peaks of holidaymakers who arrive in
the Sierra Nevada, to land in one the numerous flight areas the province looking for an
of the Costa Tropical: the Gordo-Cañuelo Hill, La Herradura, escape from their busy, stress-
Otívar, Peña Escrita, Loma del Gato or the Sierra of Lújar. The ful life back home. There are
Sierra of Loja in the west of the province and the Jabalcón several options open to those
Peak on the Tableland are also excellent landing grounds. who wish to throw off the
tensions of work and use up
some of their extra adrena-
line, from abseiling and guid-
F-5-6 Climbing in the Sierra Nevada ed jeep routes to canyon-
ing in the River Castril and dif-
COUNTRY BREAK ferent areas of the Granada
Alpujarra.
The sierras and
peaks of the Sierra
Nevada, the highest Practice your swing
in the Iberian Penin- COUNTRY BREAK
sula, are perfect for
adventurous souls to If apart from enjoying Granada’s sightseeing and cul-
enjoy climbing and tural activities you also wish to practice your swing or
mountaineering. play a few holes during your
holidays, the province offers
These can be per-
a choice of two splendid golf
formed on either rock courses, one close to the city
and ice, and have itself, the Granada Golf
the added advantage Club at Las Gabias, and the
of close contact with other on the Costa Tropical
the rare and exuber- in the town of Motril (Los
ant natural surround- Moriscos Golf Club).
ings forming a back-
drop to the sport. Granada Club de Golf (Las Gabias)
958 584 913
Los Moriscos Club de Golf (Motril)
958 825 527

82 83

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