Jelly Cabinet

Supplies Notes
● Click here for the original tutorial
● (2) 1×3×8
● By using this plan you are agreeing to all terms and
● (2) 1×4×8
conditions.
● (2) 1×12×8
● This plan is for personal use only.
● (3) 8′ Beadboard Planks
● Plans are the intellectual property of Saws on Skates®
● Bed Molding (optional)
and may not be duplicated or sold.
● 1-¼” Coarse-Thread Pocket Screws ● By using these plans, you are agreeing to do so at your
● 1-¼” Wood Screws own risk.
● 1” Brad Nails ● This plan contains affiliate links. I may receive a small
● 1-¼” Brad Nails commission if you make a purchase. There is no cost
● Washers to you for using these links. Thank you for your
● Wood Glue support.
● Knob or Handle
● (2) Vintage-Style Surface Hinges

Safety First
Tools ● Please wear all personal protective equipment (PPE).
● Tape Measure Protect your eyes with safety glasses, ears with hearing
● Drill protection, and lungs with a dust mask or respirator.
● Kreg Jig ● Follow all safety instructions that come with your tools.
● Kreg Multi-Mark
● Sliding Miter Saw
● Circular Saw or Table Saw
● Jigsaw
● Brad Nailer or Hammer
● ¼” Drill Bit

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Step 1. Make the Sides

Use the diagram to mark the location of the legs.
Cut two pieces of 1×12 to 47-½” for the sides.
Then use a jigsaw to cut the area between the front and
Related: How to Use a Tape Measure Correctly (Tips for
back legs.
Success)
Use the diagram to mark the location for pocket holes
along the front edge of each leg (the front leg measures
1-¼” at the bottom). You'll use these holes to attach the
sides to the face frame in Step 5.
NOTE: Be sure to make a left and right side.

Then drill a pocket hole at each mark.

Related: How to Use a Pocket Hole Jig (& Beginner Pitfalls
to Avoid)

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Step 2. Make the Top and Bottom
Cut two pieces of 1×12 to 17-½” for the top and bottom and
use a table saw or circular saw to rip to 10-½” wide.
Related: 21 Table Saw Safety Rules (& Mistakes to Avoid)
Use the diagram to mark the location for pocket holes.
NOTE: On the top only, drill pocket holes along the front
edge. You'll use these holes to attach the face frame in Step
5.
Then drill a pocket hole at each mark.
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Step 3. Assemble the Case
Position the bottom so the pocket holes face down and the
top so that the pocket holes face upward. Also, be sure the
pocket holes on the edge of the top piece face toward the
front of the case.
The bottom sets up 4″ from the bottom of the legs. To help
with positioning, I recommend cutting pieces of scrap wood
to 4″ and clamping them to the bottom of the legs.
Apply glue to the ends of the top and bottom, clamp into
position, and attach using 1-¼” pocket screws.
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Step 4. Make the Shelves To help position the shelves, I cut four pieces of scrap wood
to 13-⁷/₁₆”. I placed the scrap wood on the bottom, then
I made my cabinet with fixed shelves, but you can add placed a shelf on the scrap wood.
adjustable shelves. If you plan to add adjustable shelves,
Position the shelf so that it sets in ¾” from the back. It's
now is a good time to use a shelf pin jig to drill the shelf pin
important to allow for this clearance because the back is ¾”
holes. Also, I recommend cutting the adjustable shelves
thick and will occupy this space.
about ⅛” shorter so you'll have clearance for repositioning
them. Also, the shelf will not be flush with the front of the case.
Clamp in position and attach using 1-¼” pocket screws.
Related: How to Use a Shelf Pin Jig
Place the scrap wood beneath the top, position the shelf,
Cut two pieces of 1×12 to 17-½” for the shelves and rip to
and clamp. Attach using 1-¼” pocket screws.
9-½” using a table saw or circular saw. Then, drill pocket
holes on each end of the shelves.
Related: 4 Ways to Make Straight Cuts with a Circular Saw

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Step 5. Attach the Face Frame

Apply glue to the rail, clamp, and attach using 1-¼” pocket
Cut one piece of 1×3 to 12″ for the top rail and drill pocket
screws. Be sure the angles on the legs face inward.
holes in each end.
Apply glue to the edges of the case, position the face frame,
Cut two pieces of 1×4 to 47-½” for the front legs. Use the
and clamp. Use the pocket holes in the sides and top of the
diagram to mark the location of the legs and use a jigsaw to
case to attach the face frame using 1-¼” pocket screws.
remove this area.

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Step 6. Attach the Back
Cut three beadboard planks to 43-½” for the back.
On the back, center one plank from side to side and attach
using 1-¼” brad nails.
Measure to the left and right of the piece you just installed,
then use a table saw or circular saw to rip the side pieces to
fit. Attach the remaining pieces using 1-¼” brad nails.
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Step 7. Attach the Top
Use the diagram to mark the location for holes in the case's
top. You'll use them to attach the top to the case. The holes
are oversized, allowing the top to move with seasonal
changes.
Related: Mistakes with Wood Can Cause Your DIY Furniture
to Crack
Use an awl to make a starting point for the drill.
Related: What is an Awl? (+ How to Use It)
Then use a ¼” drill bit to make a hole at each mark.
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Step 7. Continued… Step 8. Attach the Bed Molding (optional)

Cut four pieces of 1×4 to 22-½” for the top.
NOTE: You may want to adjust the length and width to
make the top smaller if you won’t be using the bed molding
in Step 8.
Apply glue to the edges and clamp to form a panel.
When the glue is dry, position it on the case. Attach from
the inside of the cabinet using the holes you made earlier
with 1-¼” wood screws and washers. Unfortunately, I don't have photos demonstrating how I
attached the bed molding to the jelly cabinet, so I'm
showing how I attached the molding to this picture frame
instead.
I began by setting my miter saw to 45 degrees. Then, I
placed the molding upside down, with the molding's top
against the saw's table and the bottom against the
fence, and made the cut.

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Step 8. Continued…
Next, I set my miter saw to 45 degrees in the opposite
I positioned the molding's cut edge flush against the corner
direction. I cut the molding slightly longer than needed to
of the cabinet's side, then marked the opposite end.
ensure it would fit perfectly, allowing me to try it on the
cabinet and trim any excess with my saw.
Related: 7 Miter Saw Tricks Every DIYer Should Know

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Step 8. Continued…
Next, I cut a matching angle on the molding, placed it in
Once I was satisfied with how the molding fit, I attached it
position, and marked it for a straight cut.
using 1" brad nails.
NOTE: I attached the molding to the frame with pin nails,
but I recommend using brad nails for the jelly cabinet
because they provide a stronger hold.

I applied glue to the molding's angled end and attached it

with 1" brad nails. Then I repeated this process on the
other side.

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Step 9. Install the Door

Cut two beadboard planks to 40-⅞” for the door. Check the
height and width of your door's opening, and if necessary,
adjust your door's measurements to allow for ⅛” clearance
on the sides and top. Then cut the beadboard to length and
rip it to width.
Cut three pieces of 1×3 to 9-¾” for the braces. Use the
diagram to position the braces on the planks, clamp, and
drill countersink holes. Then attach the braces using 1-¼”
wood screws.
Related: How to Use a Countersink Bit

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Step 9. Continued…
For a rustic look, you can use a piece of scrap wood or a
Position the door in the opening. I used playing cards
short piece of 1×2 for a latch. Drill a countersink hole and
between the opening and the door to keep the correct
attach it to the face frame using a 1-¼” wood screw.
spacing. Then attach it to the face frame with hinges.
Finally, install the knob or handle of your choice.

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