Chapter 1: Introduction to City: Narayanpet

A. About Narayanpet

Narayanpet is a town located in the Mahbubnagar district of the state of Telangana, India. It
is situated in the southern part of the state, approximately 165 kilometres from the capital city
of Hyderabad. The town is known for its rich cultural heritage and its contribution to the
handloom weaving industry.

Handloom weaving is the primary occupation of the people in Narayanpet, and the town is
renowned for its Narayanpet sarees. These sarees are woven with a unique blend of cotton
and silk, resulting in a lightweight fabric with a distinct texture. The sarees often feature
intricate designs, vibrant colours, and contrasting borders. They are highly valued for their
quality and craftsmanship, making them popular among saree enthusiasts.

Narayanpet has a history of handloom weaving those dates back several centuries. The
traditional weaving techniques have been passed down through generations, and the town has
developed into a significant handloom cluster. Many weavers and artisans in Narayanpet
work from their homes or small workshops, using traditional handlooms to create these
beautiful sarees.

The government of Telangana has taken initiatives to promote and support the handloom
industry in Narayanpet. It has set up a Handloom Park and a Weavers' Cooperative Society in
the town to provide infrastructure, training, and marketing support to the weavers. These
efforts aim to preserve the traditional art form, uplift the livelihoods of the weavers, and
promote Narayanpet sarees both domestically and internationally.

Apart from handloom weaving, Narayanpet is also known for its historical and cultural
attractions. The town has several temples, including the famous Venkateshwara Swamy
Temple, which attracts devotees and visitors. The region's cuisine is also worth exploring,
with its distinct flavours and traditional Telugu dishes.

B. Narayanpet Demography

a) Population: The population of Narayanpet town is estimated to be 566874 as of 2011

Census.

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Males: 282231 Females: 284643
Rural: 503907 Urban: 62967
Density of population (per Sq. Km): 243

b) Language and Culture: The majority of the population in Narayanpet speaks Telugu,
which is the official language of Telangana. The local culture is deeply rooted in Telugu
traditions and customs, with festivals like Sankranti, Ugadi, and Bonalu being celebrated with
great enthusiasm.

c) Religion: The population of Narayanpet is predominantly Hindu. Hinduism is the major

religion practiced in the town, with various temples dedicated to different deities. However,
there is also a presence of other religious communities, including Muslims and Christians.

d) Occupation: The primary occupation of the people in Narayanpet is agriculture and

handloom weaving. The fertile land in the surrounding areas supports agricultural activities,
while handloom weaving is a traditional occupation that has been practiced for generations.

e) Education: Narayanpet has schools and educational institutions that cater to the
educational needs of its residents. Efforts have been made to improve educational facilities in
the region, providing access to primary, secondary, and higher education.

f) Healthcare: The town has healthcare facilities, including hospitals and clinics, to cater to
the medical needs of the population. The government has also implemented various
healthcare initiatives to improve the overall health and well-being of the residents.

e) Infrastructure: Narayanpet has basic infrastructure, including roads, electricity, and water
supply. Efforts are being made to further develop the town's infrastructure to support the
growing needs of its population.

C. Narayanpet Transport

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Narayanpet, being a town in Telangana, has various transportation options to facilitate travel
within and beyond the town. Here are the primary modes of transportation available in
Narayanpet:

a) Roadways: Narayanpet is well-connected to neighbouring towns and cities through road

networks. State highways and local roads provide access to different parts of the town and
nearby areas. Public and private buses, taxis, and auto-rickshaws are commonly used for local
transportation within Narayanpet and to nearby villages.

b) Railways: The nearest railway station to Narayanpet is Mahbubnagar Railway Station,

located approximately 70 kilometres away. Mahbubnagar is well-connected to major cities
and towns across India through the Indian Railways network. From Mahbubnagar, one can
avail trains to reach other destinations.

c) Airports: The nearest airport to Narayanpet is Rajiv Gandhi International Airport in

Hyderabad, which is approximately 155 kilometres away. It is a major international airport
with regular flights connecting to various domestic and international destinations. From the
airport, one can opt for taxis or buses to reach Narayanpet.

d) Local Transport: Within Narayanpet, local transport primarily relies on auto-rickshaws

and cycle-rickshaws for shorter distances. These modes of transport are readily available and
can be hired for commuting within the town.

D. Narayanpet Geography

Narayanpet is a town located in the Mahbubnagar district of the Indian state of Telangana. It
is situated in the southern part of the state, in the Deccan Plateau region. Here are some key
aspects of Narayanpet's geography:

a) Location: Narayanpet is located at approximately 16.745°N latitude and 77.496°E

longitude. It is situated about 165 kilometres south of Hyderabad, the capital city of
Telangana.

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b) Topography: The topography of Narayanpet and its surrounding areas is characterized by
undulating terrain with flat to gently rolling hills. The region is part of the Deccan Plateau,
which is a large elevated landmass in central India.

c) River: The Krishna River, one of the major rivers in India, flows near Narayanpet. It
passes through the nearby town of Alampur, which is a significant pilgrimage site due to the
presence of ancient temples.

d) Climate: Narayanpet experiences a semi-arid climate, with hot summers and moderate
winters. Summers, from March to June, are typically hot with temperatures reaching up to
40-45°C (104-113°F). The monsoon season occurs from July to September, bringing some
relief from the heat with moderate to heavy rainfall. Winter months, from November to
February, are relatively mild with temperatures ranging from 15-25°C (59-77°F).

e) Vegetation: The vegetation in Narayanpet and its surrounding areas primarily consists of
dry deciduous forests and scrublands. Acacia, neem, tamarind, and other drought-tolerant
trees and shrubs are commonly found in the region.

f) Agriculture: The agricultural practices in Narayanpet are mainly rain-fed, relying on the
monsoon rains for crop cultivation. The primary crops grown in the area include cotton,
cereals (such as jowar and maize), pulses, and oilseeds.

g) Nearby Landmarks: Narayanpet is surrounded by several notable landmarks. To the west

lies the Alampur Jogulamba Temple, an ancient temple complex dedicated to the goddess
Jogulamba. The town is also close to the border with Karnataka state, with places like
Raichur and Mantralayam located within proximity.

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Chapter 2: About the Craft

A. History of Narayanpet

The history of Narayanpet in Telangana can be traced back several centuries. Here is an
overview of the historical significance and major events related to Narayanpet:

a) Ancient and Medieval Periods: Narayanpet region has a rich historical and cultural
heritage. It is believed to have been a part of the Mauryan Empire in ancient times. The area
witnessed the rule of various dynasties, including the Satavahanas, Ikshvakus, Chalukyas,
Rashtrakutas, Kakatiyas, and the Vijayanagara Empire. The Kakatiya dynasty, which
flourished in the region from the 12th to the 14th century, made significant contributions to
the development of art, architecture, and irrigation systems.

b) Narayanpet as a Jagir: During the 17th century, Narayanpet was established as a Jagir (a
territorial division) under the Nizam of Hyderabad's rule. It was granted to a nobleman named
Bhupal Rao. The region continued to be ruled by the descendants of Bhupal Rao, known as
the Narayanpet Samsthan, who held administrative powers and played a significant role in the
region's development.

c) Freedom Struggle and Post-Independence: Narayanpet played an active role in the

Indian independence movement against British colonial rule. Many freedom fighters from the
region participated in the struggle. After India gained independence in 1947, Narayanpet
merged with the newly formed Indian state of Hyderabad, which later became part of Andhra
Pradesh in 1956. With the formation of the state of Telangana in 2014, Narayanpet became
part of the newly created state.

d) Handloom Tradition: Narayanpet has a long-standing tradition of handloom weaving.

The town is renowned for its Narayanpet sarees, which have been woven for generations. The
handloom industry in Narayanpet has played a vital role in the local economy and has been a
source of livelihood for numerous weavers and artisans.

e) Historical Landmarks: Narayanpet is home to various historical and cultural landmarks.

The town has several ancient temples, including the Venkateshwara Swamy Temple, which is
highly revered by locals and visitors alike. The Alampur Jogulamba Temple, located nearby,
is a prominent pilgrimage site known for its architectural grandeur and historical significance.

B. Present Status of Narayanpet

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Narayanpet town was popularly known for its beautifully crafted silk and cotton sarees, but it
is not the same anymore in today’s day and age as the weavers have hardly any buyers. One
of the local weavers has said that the streets were full of color and tradition as they were
draped with sarees. The houses used to carry a legacy of these beautifully handcrafted sarees
and was full of skilled artisans. There was no religious constraint that stopped people from
practicing this craft. Hindus, Muslims, and other people of different language backgrounds
worked together to create these beautiful sarees. But today a lot has changed. It is hard to find
looms in the whole of Narayanpet. The younger generation has been convinced that there is
no future in the town with all the problems they have faced such as scarcity of water and bad
transportation.

Throughout all these years Narayanpet sarees have seen quite a lot of changes, although the
roots of the craft remain the same. From the start of this craft, mainly silk fabric has been
used as the dominant fabric. But now, Narayanpet sarees made of silk are only made when
personally customized and are rare to find. Cotton is the dominant fabric in modern
Narayanpet sarees.

C. Future of Narayanpet

The Telangana government, under the guidance of Textiles Minister KT Rama Rao, has
outlined ambitious future plans for the development of the handloom sector in the state. The
minister has instructed officials to prepare proposals for the establishment of handloom
clusters in various regions, including Narayanpet, Gadwal, Dubbaka, Kodakandla,
Mahadevpur, and Kothakota. These clusters are envisioned as centres of excellence for the
handloom industry, aimed at fostering growth and progress in these areas.

Recognizing the significance of preserving the rich heritage of the handloom industry, the
minister has emphasized the need for a dedicated handloom museum in Hyderabad. With this
objective in mind, he has directed officials to submit proposals for the establishment of such a
museum. The envisioned museum will serve as a platform to showcase the historical
importance, intricate craftsmanship, and cultural significance of handloom weaving. By
promoting awareness and appreciation for this traditional art form, the museum will
contribute to its preservation and continued relevance.

To enhance the growth and competitiveness of the handloom sector, the minister has advised
textile officials to study the successful Tirupur model. He has encouraged them to visit

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Tirupur, a renowned textile hub, to gain insights into the best practices and strategies
implemented there. By adopting similar approaches and establishing handloom clusters in
Telangana, the government aims to strengthen the entire value chain, from fibre to fashion.
This strategic approach will not only boost backward and forward linkages but also
contribute to the overall development of the handloom industry in the state.

Furthermore, the minister has stressed the importance of improving existing schemes,
particularly the Chenetha Mitra Scheme. He has directed officials to simplify these schemes
and make them more user-friendly, ensuring effective and efficient delivery of benefits to the
intended beneficiaries. By streamlining and enhancing the effectiveness of these schemes, the
government aims to provide better support and opportunities for handloom workers in
Telangana.

The comprehensive review conducted by the minister underscores the government's

unwavering commitment to the development of the handlooms and textiles sector. Through
the establishment of handloom clusters, the creation of a dedicated museum, and an emphasis
on improving schemes, the Telangana government is laying the foundation for a promising
future for the handloom industry in the state. These initiatives will not only safeguard the
traditional art of handloom weaving but also generate sustainable livelihoods and foster
economic growth in the sector.

2.1 Raw Materials

The sarees are woven with cotton or silk yarn. Both the warp and weft yarn are either cotton
or silk yarn or a mixture of silk and cotton, with zari work. ln cases where they are mixed, the
warp is pure silk yarn and the weft is pure cotton yarn. The saris are made from fine
silk/cotton and have a thread count of at least 80.Cotton is obtained locally from nearby
spinning mills in Vijayawada and the nearby localities. Silk is obtained from Bangalore.
Twisted silk yarn of thickness 18/20 is only used. The gold zari is obtained from Surat which
is very famous in India for zari making.

Chapter 3: Process

3.1 Pre-Process

Step 1: Yarn Production

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Once the raw materials are obtained, they undergo the process of spinning to convert them
into yarn. Cotton fibres are spun into cotton yarn, while silk threads are processed into silk
yarn. This step may be carried out by specialized spinning units or artisans with spinning
skills.

Cotton Yarn: The cotton fibres are processed through a spinning unit where they undergo
the spinning process to convert them into cotton yarn. This can be done using traditional
spinning wheels or modern spinning machinery. The cotton yarn is sourced from Chennai.

Silk Yarn: If weavers are involved in sericulture, they obtain silk cocoons and extract silk
threads through the reeling process. The silk threads are then spun into silk yarn, which can
also be done using traditional or modern spinning techniques. The Silk Yarn is sourced from
Bangalore and Zari from Gujrat.

Cotton Yarn Production: For Narayanpet sarees, cotton yarn is primarily used for the body
of the saree.

a) Cotton fibres, which have been procured and processed, are spun into cotton yarn.

b) Traditional Spinning: In some cases, traditional spinning methods are still employed by
skilled artisans. This involves using a spinning wheel or spindle to draw out the cotton fibres
and twist them into yarn. The process requires manual dexterity and control over the tension
and twist of the yarn.

c) Modern Spinning: With the advancement of technology, modern spinning machinery is

also used for cotton yarn production. Spinning frames or ring-spinning machines automate
the spinning process, ensuring consistent and efficient yarn production.

d) Silk Yarn Production: Silk yarn is used in Narayanpet sarees, especially for the borders or
in blended yarns.

e) Silk yarn for Narayanpet sarees can be sourced from silk producers or sericulturists who
specialize in silk production.

f) Sericulture: Some weavers in Narayanpet engage in sericulture themselves. They rear

silkworms, feed them with mulberry leaves, and harvest silk cocoons. The silk cocoons are
then processed through the reeling process to extract silk filaments, which are spun into silk
yarn. This allows weavers to have control over the quality and production of silk yarn.

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Blended Yarns: In addition to using pure cotton and silk yarns, Narayanpet sarees
sometimes feature blended yarns.

a) Blended yarns are created by combining cotton and silk fibres during the spinning process.
This results in a yarn that exhibits the desired characteristics of both fibres, such as the
comfort of cotton and the lustre of silk.

b) Blended yarns can be created through different spinning techniques, such as spinning
cotton and silk fibres together or by spinning separate cotton and silk yarns and then plying
them together.

The selection of spinning method, whether traditional or modern, and the choice of raw
materials for yarn production play a crucial role in determining the quality, strength, and
overall look of Narayanpet sarees. Skilled artisans and weavers carefully consider these
factors to create yarns that meet the specific requirements of Narayanpet sarees.

Step 2: Preparation of The Loom

Preparing a weaving loom involves several steps to ensure it is properly set up and ready for
the weaving process. Here is a general outline of how a weaving loom is prepared:

Assembly: If the loom is not already assembled, the weaver needs to set it up according to
the specific type and model of the loom. This typically involves assembling the frame,
attaching various components, and ensuring the loom is stable and secure.

Warp Preparation: The next step is preparing the warp threads, which are the vertical
threads that provide the foundation for weaving.

Tensioning: Once the warp is wound onto the loom, the weaver adjusts the tension of the
warp threads. Proper tension ensures that the warp remains even and stable during the
weaving process.

Threading: The weaver threads the individual warp threads through the heddles. Heddles are
loops or wires that are attached to harnesses or shafts. The threading pattern determines how
the warp threads will be raised and lowered during weaving to create different patterns.

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Tie-up: The weaver sets up the tie-up system, which connects the treadles or levers to the
shafts or harnesses. This system controls the lifting and lowering of the shafts, allowing the
weaver to create various shed patterns.

Adjustments: The weaver makes any necessary adjustments to the loom, such as checking
the tension, ensuring the shuttle moves freely, and ensuring the loom is level and stable.
Once the loom is properly prepared, the weaver can begin the weaving process by interlacing
the weft threads with the warp threads, creating the desired fabric or design.

Step 4: Making of Yarn Rolls

Weaving yarns are typically rolled into a more manageable form before they are used in the
weaving process. The process of rolling yarns can vary depending on the specific type of
yarn, the desired format, and personal preference. Here are a few common methods for
rolling weaving yarns:

Yarn Ball/Winding by Hand: This is a simple and common method of rolling yarns. It
involves winding the yarn around your hand or fingers in a circular motion to create a ball.
As you wind the yarn, you periodically rotate the ball to ensure it stays uniform. This method
works well for smaller amounts of yarn or when you prefer a portable format.

Yarn Swift and Ball Winder: A yarn swift and ball winder are tools commonly used by
weavers and other fibre artists to efficiently wind larger quantities of yarn. The yarn swift
holds the skein or hank of yarn in place while the ball winder rotates and winds the yarn into
a centre-pull ball. This method helps create consistent, compact balls of yarn that can be
easily unwound during the weaving process.

Cone Winding: In industrial or larger-scale weaving settings, yarn is often wound onto
cones. Cone winding machines or cone winders are used for this purpose. The machine winds
the yarn onto a cone-shaped spool, ensuring even tension and a compact form. Cone-wound
yarns are convenient for use with industrial looms and can hold larger quantities of yarn,
reducing the frequency of yarn changes during weaving.

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Bobbins and Pirns: For specific types of looms, such as boat shuttles or other shuttle
systems, yarn is wound onto bobbins or pirns. These cylindrical or tapered spools are
designed to fit inside the shuttle. The yarn is wound onto the bobbin or pirn using a bobbin
winder or similar tool. This method facilitates the smooth unwinding of yarn from the spool
as it is passed through the warp threads during weaving.

It's worth noting that the specific method of rolling yarn can also depend on the
characteristics of the yarn itself, such as its texture, thickness, or fragility. Some delicate or
specialty yarns may require more gentle handling or alternative winding techniques to avoid
tangling or damaging the fibres.

Step 5: Warping of Yarns

Warping a handloom involves a manual process of measuring, preparing, and winding the
warp threads onto the loom. Here's a step-by-step overview of how warping is typically done
in a handloom:

Determine the Warp Length: Decide on the desired length of the warp threads based on the
intended project. Take into account factors such as the finished length of the fabric, loom
waste, and any additional length required for tying off or finishing.

Set Up the Warping Board or Mill: A warping board or mill is used to measure the length
of the warp threads. If using a warping board, secure it vertically to a sturdy surface. If using
a warping mill, assemble it according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Attach the Starting Point: Secure the end of the warp thread to the starting peg or pin on the
warping board or mill. This serves as the initial anchor for winding the warp.

Create the Cross: As you wind the warp threads, it's important to maintain the order and
prevent tangling. To do this, create a cross between the threads. Pass the warp thread in front
of the board or mill and then bring it behind the previous thread, forming an "X" shape.
Continue this process as you wind the threads, crossing each thread over the previous one.

Wind the Warp: Begin winding the warp threads onto the warping board or mill, following
the desired length and crossing each thread to create the cross. As you wind, maintain
consistent tension and alignment of the threads. Be careful to avoid tangling or overlapping
the threads.

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Repeat for Multiple Warps: If your project requires multiple warp threads, repeat the
winding process for each thread, ensuring they are evenly spaced and parallel.

Remove from the Warping Board or Mill: Once the warp threads are wound, carefully
remove them from the warping board or mill, maintaining the cross. Take care not to disturb
the order of the threads.

Transfer to the Loom: Take the wound warp threads to the handloom and attach the starting
end to the back beam or warp beam of the loom. Carefully unwind the threads, making sure
they pass through the appropriate heddles and reed, following the desired threading pattern.

Tensioning and Sleying: Adjust the tension of the warp threads using the tensioning
mechanisms of the loom. Then, sley or thread the warp threads through the reed, ensuring
even spacing and alignment.

Tie Off and Secure: Once the warp threads are properly threaded and tensioned, tie off the
ends onto the front or back beam to secure them in place.

Step 6: Selection of Yarns

Selecting the appropriate yarn for weaving involves considering various factors such as fiber
content, thickness, texture, and desired characteristics of the finished fabric. Here are some
key considerations when choosing yarn for weaving:

Fiber Content: Determine the type of fiber you want for your project. Common fibers used
in weaving include cotton, wool, silk, linen, bamboo, hemp, and various synthetic fibers.
Each fiber has its own properties, such as strength, drape, warmth, or sheen, which will
influence the characteristics of the final fabric.

Yarn Thickness: Consider the thickness or weight of the yarn, often indicated by its yarn
weight category (e.g., lace, fingering, sport, worsted, bulky). Thicker yarns create a denser
fabric with larger, more visible weaves, while finer yarns produce a lighter, more delicate
fabric. The desired thickness will depend on the intended use and the desired drape or
structure of the woven item.

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Texture and Twist: Yarns come in various textures and twist styles, such as smooth, slub,
boucle, or crepe. The texture can add visual interest and affect the surface appearance of the
fabric. Additionally, the twist of the yarn affects its strength and durability.

Color and Dyeing: Consider the color options available in the yarn. Yarns come in a wide
range of colors, including solid, variegated, or hand-dyed options. If you have specific color
requirements or want to experiment with dyeing, choose a yarn that can be easily dyed or
take into account the potential interaction of dye colors with the fiber type.

Project Requirements: Take into account the specific requirements of your weaving project.
For example, if you plan to create a warp-faced fabric with tight, densely packed warp
threads, you may want to select a strong and durable yarn. On the other hand, if you're
creating a lightweight, airy fabric, you may opt for a finer, softer yarn.

Personal Preferences and Experimentation: Consider your own preferences as well as the
creative vision you have for your project. Weaving offers opportunities for experimentation
and exploration, so feel free to try out different yarns, blends, or techniques to achieve unique
effects or textures.

When choosing yarn for weaving, it can be helpful to touch and feel the yarn, examine
sample swatches or yarn labels, and gather inspiration from weaving patterns, weaving
books, or online resources. Additionally, reaching out to fellow weavers or local yarn shops
can provide valuable insights and recommendations based on their experience with different
yarns.

Step 7: Setting of The Loom

Setting up a handloom involves several steps to ensure it is properly assembled and adjusted
for weaving. Here's a general overview of the setting process for a handloom:

Assemble the Loom: If the handloom is not already assembled, carefully follow the
manufacturer's instructions to put it together. This typically involves attaching the frame,
beams, heddles, and other components according to the specific design of the loom.

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Position the Loom: Find a suitable location for the handloom, ensuring it is stable and level.
Make sure there is enough space around the loom for comfortable weaving and movement.

Attach the Warp Beam: Install the warp beam at the back of the loom, securely fastening it
to the frame. The warp beam holds the wound warp threads.

Tie on the Warp: Take the prepared warp threads and tie the starting end to the back beam.
Carefully unwind the threads, ensuring they pass through the appropriate heddles and reed
according to the desired threading pattern.

Tensioning the Warp: Adjust the tension of the warp threads using the tensioning
mechanisms provided by the loom. This helps maintain even tension throughout the weaving
process, preventing sagging or uneven weaving.

Sleying the Reed: Thread the warp threads through the reed, which is a comb-like device
that separates and spaces the warp threads evenly. Make sure the threads are aligned and
properly sleyed through the reed's dents.
Set Up the Heddles: Depending on the type of handloom, you may have shafts or harnesses
with heddles. Thread the warp threads through the heddles following the desired threading
pattern. This determines how the warp threads will be raised and lowered during weaving to
create different shed patterns.

Adjustments: Check and adjust various components of the loom, such as the warp tension,
harnesses, treadles, and shuttle mechanisms, to ensure they are working properly. Make any
necessary adjustments to achieve the desired weaving setup.

Prepare Weft Yarn: Prepare the weft yarn or thread by winding it onto bobbins, pirns, or
shuttles, depending on the type of handloom and shuttle system being used.

Test the Loom: Before starting the actual weaving, it's a good practice to run a few test
passes to check the shed, tension, and overall operation of the loom. This allows you to
identify any issues and make further adjustments if needed.

Once the handloom is properly set up, you are ready to begin weaving by passing the weft
yarn through the shed created by raising and lowering the warp threads. Remember to
advance the warp as needed to maintain tension and create new weaving space.

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3.2 Main Process
The weaver sits at the loom and operates the treadles, which control the raising and lowering
of the harnesses or shafts.

Step 1: The weaving process involves a series of steps:

a) Shed Formation: The weaver raises or lowers specific harnesses or shafts to create the shed
(an opening between the warp yarns) through which the weft yarn is inserted.

b) Weft Insertion: The weaver passes the shuttle containing the weft yarn through the shed
from one side to the other, interlacing it with the warp yarns.

c) Beating: After each weft insertion, the weaver uses a comb-like tool called a "reed" to push
the weft yarn tightly against the previously inserted weft yarns. This process is known as
beating.

d) Repeat: The weaver repeats the shed formation, weft insertion, and beating steps
continuously, following the design and pattern instructions.

Step 2: Border Weaving and Additional Embellishments:

a) Narayanpet sarees are known for their distinct borders and additional embellishments.

b) Borders are often woven separately and then attached to the main body of the saree.

c) The border weaving involves using different colored yarns or additional warp or weft
patterning techniques to create intricate designs.

d) Embellishments such as zari (metallic thread) work, embroidery, or mirror work may be
added to enhance the beauty and richness of the saree.

The weaving process of Narayanpet sarees requires skill, precision, and attention to detail. It
is a labour-intensive craft that reflects the artistry and craftsmanship of the weavers. Each
saree is carefully woven, ensuring that the design, patterns, and borders align perfectly to
create the desired aesthetic appeal.

Step 3: Weaving Technique

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The handloom sarees of Narayanpet are traditionally woven using the interlocked-weft
technique. Due to the affordability, as well as durability and low-maintenance, the handloom
sarees of Narayanpet are quite popular.

The weaving process of Narayanpet sarees involves using both the pit loom and the frame
loom. The body of the saree is woven on a frame loom, while the border is woven on a pit
loom. This unique weaving technique gives the sarees their distinct look.

A. Pit Loom Weaving:

a) Narayanpet sarees are traditionally woven on a pit loom, which is a handloom that operates
using a system of pulleys and treadles.

b) The pit loom is called so because it is set up in a pit or a depression in the ground, which
allows the weaver to sit comfortably at a lower level while working.

c) The pit loom is known for its simplicity and versatility, making it suitable for weaving a
wide variety of fabrics, including Narayanpet sarees.

B. Technique: Interlocking Weft and Warp:

a) The weaving technique used in Narayanpet sarees is a variation of the interlocking weft
and warp technique, known as "interlocking plain weave" or "interlock-weft technique."

b) In this technique, the weft yarns are interlaced with the warp yarns in a specific pattern to
create a strong and durable fabric.

c) The interlocking nature of the weave ensures that the fabric maintains its integrity even if a
thread is broken, minimizing the risk of the fabric unravelling.

C. Double Ikat Weaving:

a) Narayanpet sarees are also known for their double ikat weaving technique.

b) In double ikat, both the warp and weft yarns are resist-dyed before weaving, resulting in a
fabric where the pattern is created by the precise alignment of dyed yarns.

c) This intricate technique requires exceptional skill and precision in aligning the dyed yarns
during the weaving process to create the desired patterns and motifs.

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D. Step Border Weaving:

a) The border of Narayanpet sarees is woven separately and then attached to the main body of
the saree.

b) The border weaving involves intricate patterns and designs, often using different colored
yarns or additional warp or weft patterning techniques.

c) The border is woven using a supplementary weft technique, where additional weft yarns
are inserted to create the desired motifs and patterns.

E. Handloom Weaving:

a) Narayanpet sarees are predominantly woven on handlooms by skilled artisans.

b) Handloom weaving allows for intricate and detailed craftsmanship, as the weavers have
better control over the tension, texture, and quality of the fabric.

c) The handloom weaving process requires manual dexterity, concentration, and expertise to
ensure the evenness and consistency of the fabric.

The weaving technique used in Narayanpet sarees is a combination of traditional knowledge,

artistic creativity, and meticulous craftsmanship. It involves the interlocking of weft and warp
yarns, double ikat weaving, and supplementary weft techniques to create unique and beautiful
sarees that are cherished for their intricate patterns, vibrant colors, and durability.

3.3 Washing Of Narayanpet Sarees:

Step 1: Pre-Washing:

a) Before the dyeing process, Narayanpet sarees may undergo pre-washing to remove
impurities and prepare the fabric for dye absorption.

b) Pre-washing can help eliminate any residual dirt, oils, or sizing agents used during the
weaving process.

c) The sarees are soaked in water, often with mild detergent, and gently washed by hand or in
a washing machine on a delicate cycle.

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d) After washing, the sarees are rinsed thoroughly to ensure all detergent and impurities are
removed.

Step 2: Dyeing Process:

Narayanpet sarees are known for their vibrant and colourful designs, achieved through
various dyeing techniques.

a) Natural Dyes: Traditionally, natural dyes extracted from plants, flowers, roots, and barks
were used to dye Narayanpet sarees. These dyes include indigo, madder, turmeric, and
various other plant-based sources. Natural dyeing imparts earthy and subtle tones to the
fabric.

b) Synthetic Dyes: With advancements in technology, synthetic dyes have also become
commonly used in the dyeing process. Synthetic dyes offer a wide range of colours and
shades, enabling more vibrant and bold designs.

c) Immersion Dyeing: Immersion dyeing is a common technique used in Narayanpet saree

production. The sarees are immersed in dye baths containing the selected dye solution. The
dye bath can be heated to facilitate colour absorption, and the sarees are agitated or stirred to
ensure even colour distribution.

d) Tie-Dyeing and Resist Dyeing: Some Narayanpet sarees feature tie-dye or resist-dyeing
techniques to create unique patterns and designs. These techniques involve tying or binding
specific areas of the fabric with threads, knots, or wax to create patterns and prevent those
areas from absorbing dye. Once the dyeing process is complete, the tied or resistant areas are
untied or treated to reveal distinctive patterns.

Step 3: Colour Fixation and Finishing:

a) After the dyeing process, the sarees undergo colour fixation to ensure that the dye adheres
permanently to the fabric.

b) Fixation can be achieved through different methods, such as heat-setting, chemical fixing
agents, or steam treatments, depending on the type of dye used.

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c) Once the colour fixation is complete, the sarees are rinsed thoroughly to remove any
excess dye and chemical residues.

d) The washed sarees are then dried in a controlled environment to avoid colour fading or
bleeding.

Step 4: Finishing and Embellishment

Once the weaving is complete, the sarees undergo finishing processes to enhance their
appearance and durability.

Trimming: The edges of the sarees are trimmed to achieve neatness and uniformity. Any
loose threads or weaving flaws are carefully corrected.

Embellishment: Zari work, which involves weaving metallic threads made of gold or silver
into the saree, is a common embellishment technique used in Narayanpet sarees. Artisans
skilfully incorporate zari threads to add a touch of richness and shine to the sarees.

3.4 Quality Control

Quality control checks are conducted at various stages to ensure that the sarees meet the
required standards.

Skilled artisans or quality inspectors examine the sarees for any weaving flaws, color
inconsistencies, or design inaccuracies. They pay attention to the overall quality and aesthetic
appeal of the sarees.

If any issues are identified, they are rectified before the sarees proceed to the packaging and
distribution stage.

CHAPTER 4: GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATION OF THE CRAFT

The GI (Geographical Indication) status has been granted to Narayanpet saree in the year
2013. The idea is to keep the cultural heritage of Telangana alive. The sarees can now be
differentiated from those which have been brought into the market from commercial power
looms and which use cheap fabrics more often than not.

CHAPTER 5: DIAGNOSTIC STUDY OF THE CRAFT

5.1 Awareness of Geographical Indication

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Awareness levels about GI among the stakeholders – aware about the GI but not taking any
benefits from it. Perceptible changes after GI registration [packing, GI mark, marketing,
pricing etc.] No such changes have been seen. Status of present designs and future scope –
temple borders can be seen prominently and zari motifs were seen. As these motifs are unique
the same will have future scope.

Benefits accrued after GI registration [perception of producers and reality]. No specific

benefits form GI in general they got however medical benefits and other schemes are
provided to the registered artisans.

5.2 Design/Technology/Intervention

Rich Tradition: The Narayanpet handloom industry has a long and rich tradition of
producing high-quality handloom textiles. The craftsmanship and skills passed down through
generations contribute to the uniqueness and appeal of the products.

Unique Designs and Patterns: The handloom textiles produced in Narayanpet are known for
their intricate designs, vibrant colors, and distinctive patterns. This uniqueness gives the
industry a competitive edge and attracts customers who appreciate traditional textiles.

Technological Advancement: The industry still relies on traditional weaving techniques,

which can limit productivity and efficiency. The absence of technological advancements and
modern machinery in the production process may hinder the industry's ability to scale up and
meet growing demand.

5.3 Marketing and Sales of the Product

5.3.1 Product

The Narayanpet handloom cluster is renowned for its exquisite handloom products. The
primary product of this cluster is the Narayanpet saree, a traditional hand-woven garment
known for its rich silk fabric, vibrant colors, and intricate designs. The cluster also produces
other handloom products like dress materials, stoles, and dupattas. These products are known
for their high-quality craftsmanship, unique weaving techniques, and traditional motifs.

5.3.2 Price

The pricing of Narayanpet handloom products varies based on factors such as the intricacy of
design, type of silk used, and the skill of the weaver. The pricing is generally influenced by

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the demand for the product, the cost of raw materials, and the level of competition in the
market. Handloom products from Narayanpet are often considered premium due to their
craftsmanship, and the pricing reflects the value associated with the traditional weaving
techniques and cultural heritage.

5.3.3 Place

Narayanpet, located in the Mahbubnagar district of Telangana, India, is the geographical hub
of the handloom cluster. The weavers' community in Narayanpet has been practicing the art
of handloom weaving for generations. The place is known for its weaving tradition and is
home to numerous weaver families and cooperatives. The handloom products from
Narayanpet are primarily sold locally in various government-sponsored exhibitions,
handloom fairs, and emporiums. In recent years, efforts have been made to promote online
sales, allowing customers from across the world to access and purchase Narayanpet
handlooms.

5.3.4 Promotion

Promotion plays a crucial role in creating awareness and increasing the demand for
Narayanpet handloom products. Various promotional activities are undertaken to showcase
the uniqueness and craftsmanship of these handloom products. The government, handloom
cooperatives, and non-governmental organizations organize exhibitions, fashion shows, and
trade fairs to promote Narayanpet handlooms. Social media platforms and online
marketplaces also serve as effective promotional channels, enabling weavers to reach a wider
audience. Additionally, collaborations with fashion designers, celebrities, and retail outlets
help in creating brand visibility and expanding the market for Narayanpet handlooms.

Overall, the Narayanpet handloom cluster stands out for its distinctive handloom products,
traditional weaving techniques, and rich cultural heritage. The cluster's success is attributed
to the quality of its products, pricing strategies, geographical advantage, and effective
promotion and marketing efforts.

5.4 GOVERNMENT AND CO-OPERATIVE SOCIETIES

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The Telangana State Handloom Weavers' Co-operative Society (Formation) Act, 1976
governs the establishment and functioning of the handloom weavers' co-operative society in
Telangana. The Act provides for the formation of a new society called the Telangana State
Handloom Weavers' Co-operative Society Limited by amalgamating the Andhra Handloom
Weavers' Co-operative Society, the Hyderabad Handloom Weavers' Central Co-operative
Association, and the Rayalaseema Apex Weavers' Co-operative Society.

The Act specifies that the ultimate authority of the new society resides in its general body,
composed of members from the general bodies of the amalgamated societies. The Act also
establishes a committee for the management of the new society's affairs, consisting of
representatives from various primary handloom weavers' co-operative societies, government
nominees, and officials from related institutions.

The Act ensures the transfer of assets, liabilities, and services of officers and employees from
the amalgamated societies to the new society. It states that the new society shall be governed
by the provisions of the Telangana Co-operative Societies Act, 1964, except where
specifically mentioned otherwise.

The Act grants overriding effect to its provisions, superseding any inconsistencies with the
Co-operative Societies Act. It empowers the government to make rules, laying out the
procedures and regulations necessary for the implementation of the Act. Additionally, the Act
allows the government to issue orders to address any difficulties in implementing its
provisions.

Overall, the Act establishes the legal framework for the formation and functioning of the
Telangana State Handloom Weavers' Co-operative Society, defining its governance structure,
powers, and interactions with the government.

a) Few of the co-op societies are

b) Transfer of assets and liabilities of other societies to the Telangana State Handloom
Weavers Co-operative Society Limited.

c) General effect of the merger.

d) Ultimate authority to vest in the general body.

e) Management of affairs of transferee society.

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f) Transfer of services of officers & other employees of the transferor societies.

CHAPTER 6 ANALYSIS BASED ON DIAGNOSTIC STUDY

6.1 SWOT ANALYSIS OF NARAYANPET SAREES

STRENGTH

1. It is a traditional craft, where everything is done by hand using loom.

2. The saree has a fine weave count which makes it a soft and fine fabric.
3. Has contrasting border and body color which give a beautiful design outlook.
4. Zari work enhances the texture and pattern.
5. It has the GI tag.

WEAKNESS

1. Lack of awareness among the consumer.

2. Scope for design and pattern is limited.
3 . Usage of limited number of colors.

OPPORTUNITIES

1. Low cost of Narayanpet saari.

2. Distinct identity.
3. Growing interest in sustainable textile among the elite group.
4. Patronage of Central and State government for craft revival through
5. various initiatives such as Vocal for Local and GoCOOp and Atmanirbhar Bharat.

THREATS

1. Diminishing numbers of weaver.

2. Imitation of Narayanpet saree on power loom.
3. They are merging a lot of craft(s) with Narayanpet saree due to which its traditional
value is diminishing.

6.2 SOCIAL IMPACT AND CHALLENGES

6.2.1 Social Challenges

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The COVID-19 lockdown has affected the jobs of the weavers/artisans as the production has
slowed down. Only 15 out of 40 looms are operational due to COVID. Stocks are not getting
sold. Due to this, they are going through a severe cash crunch. The timing could not have
been worse.

Unemployment, falling economy and continuous lockdown have caused a devastating impact
on the handicraft sectors. Artisans/Weavers are the third-largest phases among the poor. Most
of their merchandise is ‘non-essential’ due to which their alarming state of affairs are less
visible despite the decision of ‘vocal for local’ and ‘Atmanirbhar Bharat’.

Their sales from income have decreased to thirty percent, leading to a lower working capital
availability. Due to a shortage of raw materials, the working days have decreased and the
overhead expenses have elevated because of low manufacturing and income.

For artisans, the dwelling expenses have risen because of the growing prices of main
commodities and also an increase in precautionary medical expenditure because of fear of the
corona virus. On average, before the lockdown, the artisans earned approximately Rs 10,000
per month. But due to the pandemic, the artisans/weavers are facing a lot of problems and
now artisans are migrating to different occupations.

Exhibitions have been cancelled since 2020. Due to this, there have been no sales through the
exhibitions or orders and Wholesale buyers’ groups have closed down because of which bills
are no longer being made. Buying yarn is now no longer viable, and dyeing devices are
closed. For weavers, there is no certainty about when they will begin working again because
they have lost their wages, and without raw materials, they won’t be able to start work again.

6.2.2 Challenges in promotion of the GI craft

1. Less awareness about the GI registration of this craft its information & benefits
among the artisans.
2. Lack of linkages among the local and domestic market.

6.2.3 Demands of the producer

1. Government provided raw materials are inferior in quality leading to low quality final
production.
2. In government provided works the payments are released very late.

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6.3 GAP ANALYSIS

There are no specific quality standards followed by the producers. The gaps observed during
the study are as given below

1. Very low wages [Rs. 160 Per saree which takes 2 days] given to the weavers.
2. Lack of motivation for good quality work execution as payment is unit rate based.
3. Authentic Narayanpet sarees weavers have been shifting to the Jamdani woven sarees
because of more wages.

CHAPTER 7: CONCLUSION

These Narayanpet sarees are practiced Narayanpet village and also surrounded other 8
villages. The manufacturing of Narayanpet Sarees was good in the neighbouring small
villages. There was a local market purely dedicated to the sarees and metal jewellery (gold
and silver). The town majorly comes under rural area, so the sanitation was not their major
concern. The people were not aware of GI only the master weaver knew about it but not
about the benefits he and his team could get. It was observed that the villages didn’t have
proper electricity and road routes connecting around villages.
Most of the weavers were women who resided in the small nearby villages. Lack of
awareness about the benefits is also causing them to struggle financially as fast fashion is
taking over the craft. For cost reduction they are also making the sarees in different fabrics
such as polyester instead of sticking to just cotton and silk. No definite training is being
provided by government and the wages are received late even if the government pays
them. The community really needs government support in terms of sales and the quality of
raw materials provided from them also needs to improve.
7.1 Suggestions of Improvement

a) Government support: Advocate for enhanced government support, including financial

assistance, subsidies, and policies specifically tailored for master weavers.
b) Skill development programs: Establish skill development programs to attract and train the
younger generation in handloom weaving.
c) Design innovation and market research: Encourage weavers to explore design innovation
and conduct market research to align their products with current fashion trends.
d) Access to technology: Provide weavers with access to modern technology and training
programs to enhance productivity and efficiency.
e) Strengthen infrastructure: Improve infrastructure facilities such as weaving centres, dyeing
units, and design development centres to support weavers.

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f) Marketing initiatives: Facilitate marketing initiatives, including creating awareness
campaigns, participating in exhibitions, and leveraging digital platforms to reach a broader
customer base.
g) Direct market linkages: Facilitate direct market linkages between weavers and retailers or
customers to eliminate middlemen and improve profit margins.
h) financial support and microcredit: Establish financial support mechanisms and microcredit
facilities to assist weavers in accessing capital for raw materials and investments.
I) Collaboration with fashion designers: Foster collaborations between master weavers and
fashion designers to create contemporary designs and promote Narayanpet sarees in the
fashion industry.
j) Revival campaigns: Launch campaigns to raise awareness about the heritage and
craftsmanship of Narayanpet handlooms, highlighting their unique selling points and
sustainable nature.
k) Subsidies for raw materials: Advocate for subsidies on raw materials such as silk yarn and
zari to reduce production costs for weavers.
l) Industry associations and clusters: Support the formation of industry associations and
clusters to facilitate collective bargaining power, resource sharing, and promotional activities.
m) Access to training and skill upgradation: Organize training programs, workshops, and skill
upgradation initiatives for weavers to enhance their craftsmanship and adapt to changing
market demands.
n) financial literacy and entrepreneurship training: Provide financial literacy and
entrepreneurship training to weavers to empower them in managing their businesses
effectively.
o) Encouraging youth involvement: Create awareness among the younger generation about
the cultural significance and economic opportunities in the handloom sector to attract their
participation and ensure the future sustainability of the Narayanpet handloom industry.

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